At what temperature to put the thermostat on the trimmer

Auto thermostat. How it works and malfunctions

“Hangs” in fully or partially open state

The engine will warm up to operating temperature for a long time, and in winter. will not warm up at all. With a working cooling system at a temperature of about zero degrees, the engine warms up to operating temperature when driving in 5-10 minutes.

In case of incomplete opening. the temperature will not rise above 70 o C. In the summer this will not cause much trouble, and in the winter the stove will not work.

What the thermostat consists of

  • cases (made of copper, brass);
  • a copper cylinder inside with a filled active mass and a temperature-sensitive element;
  • two inlet (small and large circle) and one outlet pipe;
  • main and bypass valve of a small circle.

Stuck in fully closed position

Overheating of the engine is possible in any driving mode at any air temperature and even in a slight frost. In this case, it is changed to a new one. When it opens, but not completely, the motor overheats, but it may not “boil”. it all depends on the operating mode of the machine. In any case, we will change to a new one in the near future.

What it is

Thermostat is an automatic regulator of the temperature of antifreeze or antifreeze in the engine cooling system. It accelerates the warm-up of the motor and maintains the desired thermal mode of operation.

It is essentially a valve with a thermosensitive element inside that blocks the flow of coolant through the radiator until the engine has warmed up. When the engine is cold, antifreeze does not pass through the thermostat and radiator of the car. When the engine reaches an optimum temperature of 75-90 o C. the thermostat opens. It allows the engine to warm up faster, thereby reducing wear and harmful emissions.

temperature, thermostat, trimmer

When the antifreeze warms up more than 75 degrees, a special valve in the thermostat begins to slowly open. Full opening will be at a temperature of approximately 90-95 o C. Between 75-90 o C, the thermostat valve controls the amount of coolant passing through the radiator. He takes it to the upper radiator tank and water pump. Thus, it maintains the optimal temperature regime of the motor.

On modern machines, single-valve thermostats with a solid filler made of so-called ceresin (hydrocarbon technical wax) are used. When heated, this wax expands and presses on the main valve. This opens the passage of antifreeze through the device.

What are the malfunctions

How to determine if it works or not

Typically, the thermostat will fail gradually. If the malfunction is difficult to notice in the summer, then in the winter it affects the prolonged warm-up of the car. When the car used to warm up quickly and the cabin was warm. then everything is all right. If it is not very comfortable in winter, the arrow of the temperature indicator does not reach the operating range for a long time (from 75 to 95 o C). means problems with the cooling system. We will tell you what are the ways to check the operation of the thermostat.

It is necessary to warm up the engine so that the temperature does not slightly reach the red zone on the dashboard sensor. Then turn off the ignition, open the hood, find the upper radiator hose. It attaches from the top and is a black rubber hose about 5 cm in diameter. Find the bottom hose that looks like the top one. Touch the hoses, but be careful as can be hot.

If the engine temperature sensor shows that it is hot, and one hose is hot, the other is cold, most likely the thermostat valve is closed and the coolant does not pass through the radiator. Change the thermostat to a new one.

What to look for first of all

Indeed, what should be paid attention to. this is for the material of the case and the quality of the casting. For example, the new Chinese thermostat looks very good and even has a characteristic shine. True, after a year of operation, it is completely covered with rust. Perfect option. body made of stainless steel or brass. Such a spare part will serve for many years.

Which company (imported or domestic) to choose a thermostat? Imported products are believed to be more credible. Have a good reputation:

  • KRAFT (Germany);
  • VERNET (France);
  • Finord (Finland);
  • Zollex (Slovenia);
  • WEEN (Belgium);
  • Metal-Inkar (Poland).

There are a huge number of Ukrainian, Russian and Chinese manufacturers on sale. On the website ZAPCHASTI.RIA.COM alone, there are about 1,000,000 of all kinds of spare parts, including thermostats for cars of any brands.

Where is better to choose?

How to choose a thermostat

The correct functioning of the entire cooling system depends on the correct operation of the thermostat. Unfortunately, very often motorists are faced with a situation when a newly purchased spare part turns out to be defective and works worse than a worn part.

What is the difference between an original spare part and a non-original one

A reason to doubt the originality of the spare part. too low price for an expensive part. But there are other “signs” as well. A handicraft thermostat made in China gives out quality. Bad “sign”. obvious seam along the body, disgusting molding and carelessly processed surface, “strange” shine, lack of a branded inscription.

This is the original from WAHLER.

And this. chinese fake.

If you carefully study the sites with branded spare parts, you can find differences from the original on the packaging itself.

Left. original packaging with the name of the brand. On right. replica.

What are the pros and cons?

Which thermostat to choose, everyone decides based on their own preferences. Some people prefer the most “fast-reacting” instance of “Pramo” (both the main body and the cover are completely made of plastic), others buy a spare part in aluminum. An important criterion. product warranty period (can range from 6 months to 3 years).

In any case, when purchasing a thermostat, keep your receipt (according to the Law of Ukraine “On Protection of Consumer Rights”, the warranty for spare parts applies if there is a document confirming the purchase and installation of a part in a service station).

The main symptoms of a malfunction

The main symptom of a malfunction is that when the motors overheat, the lower and upper pipes are at the same temperature. Usually they say that the thermostat is “stuck”, or the pass valve has ceased to cope with its work. The thermostat is in the open position. Of the two circuits, the liquid is driven only along a large one, and the engine does not warm up to operating temperature. Underheating leads to an increase in fuel consumption, harmful emissions, increased wear of engine parts. In addition, the car interior warms up worse.

Is it possible to cope with the replacement yourself

With the development of online resources, there is no problem finding manuals for replacing individual parts. If you want to replace the thermostat yourself, you need to get a sealant, a Phillips screwdriver, a basin for draining the coolant, keys for “12” and “13”. In fact, the replacement involves the following: drain the antifreeze, remove the decorative engine cover, disconnect the thermostat housing, remove the thermostat and install a new one. Often, thermostats are designed so that the side matters. with which you will install it. For ease of identification, the manufacturer makes notes such as “Front” and “Rad”, or an arrow pointing to the radiator. We also advise you to change the clamps and seals during installation. After replacement, it is advised to top up antifreeze and make sure there are no leaks.

We buy without mistakes

So, the first goal is not to fall for a fake. At the same time, Chinese thermostats are not necessarily bad, but it makes no sense to criticize Chinese fakes, since they are not suitable for anything. Let’s figure out how to recognize a fake.

Please note the following:

Spare parts for Skoda octavia

OCTAVIA liftback (1Z3) (04.13)

Planned replacement

The thermostat belongs to the category of spare parts that does not have a regulated replacement period. A quality product lasts up to several years. In the event of a thermostat breakdown, the motor suffers the most. the temperature regime is not observed. There are two possibilities here. which consider in what position the thermostat “stuck”. This can be either overheating of the engine, or, conversely, underheating due to intensive cooling. In the memory of service station workers, there are many cases when the thermostat on the car worked properly or failed. individual instances of this part behave in the most interesting way.

Common causes of breakdowns are the use of unsuitable cooling fluids and a reluctance to change them on time. Worst case. use of water. We’ll talk about when the thermostat needs to be replaced, which manufacturing companies are worthy of attention, and also what tricks experienced motorists have.

How to choose a thermostat

PRIMERA sedan (P10) (

SIERRA sedan (GBG, GB4) (

We carry out diagnostics on our own.

Without removing the thermostat from the car, you can easily monitor its operation. We warm up the engine, after which it touches the hose from the thermostat to the radiator. Its standard state is: low temperature, comparable to the air temperature. If it is hot, then you should either go to the service station, or try to dismantle and further diagnose yourself.

We remove the thermostat and carry out its “welding”. This is done very simply: put a thermometer and a thermostat in a pot of clean water. We heat the water, trying to fix its temperature at the thermometer mark at 90 ° C. If the thermostat valve starts to open slowly, there is no cause for concern. This did not happen or the valve did not fully open. an urgent replacement will have to be carried out.

At what temperature to put the thermostat on the trimmer

This is a profile forum.
Flood is prohibited. FLAME and OFFLINE.

Youngsters mentor

Group: Full members of the club
Posts: 2,936
Registration: 29.3.2007
From: Kiev province, p. Chubinskoe
Real name: Dima

My car: Honda FR-V 1.8 ATMO
Club Card 52
valid until 01.10.2010

The consumption of 10 liters tortured me, especially with the current price of benz.
Climbing through our and Russian forums, I found out for myself the two most correct (in relation to the car, if I may say so) ways to reduce consumption:
1. ECU flashing to “economy”;
2. replacement of the standard thermostat 87 deg. on the thermostat with T start of opening 92 deg.

The first question has been discussed and is being discussed (let’s leave it aside)
But the replacement of the thermostat interested me greatly. I dug up the main information on the Russian forum. So far, I do not give any links (what if the topic is to kill Nuna). If the topic “goes to the masses” then I will continue

ISCHO times sorry if you created a duplicate of the theme.

If there is no objection, then I will continue.
Taken from the forum of the Russian Lacetti Club:

The standard Lacetti thermostat has an opening temperature of 85.87 ° C and fully opens at 102 ° C. Fan start temperature 97 ° C. The heatsink is large enough that the cooling performance even with a partially open thermostat is quite good. In addition, the thermostat is installed at the outlet of the cylinder head, where the coolant temperature is above the average (measured by the temperature sensor) by about 5 ° C. As a result, we have an engine temperature in motion of 78-82 ° C and a maximum of 94 ° C when parked. Compared to other vehicles, the engine temperature is approximately 5 ° C lower.

The low engine temperature mainly affects fuel consumption, because The ECU prepares a richer mixture, as well as the intensity of interior heating and carbon formation.

In order to reduce fuel consumption, the standard thermostat (87 ° C) was replaced with a “hotter” thermostat with an opening temperature of 92 ° C. Such alteration does not change the permissible and constructive thermal conditions of the engine.

I want to draw your attention to the fact that all alterations are only at your own “peril and risk”! All of these can cause warranty problems when contacting a dealer. May also cause the engine to overheat and / or run the fan more frequently in hot regions.

What is the result of such a replacement? The cabin is warmer, warms up faster (in the case of a sealed thermostat), fuel consumption is slightly lower (

1 l / 100 km). On the highway at 15 ° C the temperature is kept within 85-86 ° C, in the city 88-90.

The price of a replacement kit is about 900-1,000 rubles. (about 282.00 UAH)

Post has been edited by Lebannen. 6.2.2012, 13:02

Bypass valve

If the batteries in the room are heated unevenly, increase the circulation rate of the coolant. To do this, turn the bypass screw clockwise.

If, when the heating is turned on, the liquid in the batteries, on the contrary, makes noise, then reduce the speed of the coolant by turning the screw in the opposite direction. Use a pressure gauge or digital differential pressure gauge for adjustment and measurement. It will indicate the nominal pressure, which should not exceed 0.2-0.4 bar.

Hot water temperature changes

To regulate the water supply to a comfortable level, it is required to reduce the burner power.

  • Open the mixer to switch the boiler to DHW mode.
  • Set the temperature to 55 ° C.
  • Go to the service menu, as described above (for “Proterm”).
  • Select parameter d.53.
  • Press Mode.
  • After that, the line will show the maximum power. For example, take the exponent 17.

If you experiment and immediately choose the minimum value. 90, then the temperature of the tap water will not be comfortable. We expose 80 and we get an increase in the degree of water. Increase the values ​​little by little until you are satisfied with the DHW supply. In our case, the water reached 50 degrees, and the setting was 80. This is despite the fact that the factory setting was 17. This is the difference.

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SIT valve adjustment

The automation of some units provides for the presence of a gas valve of the SIT type. It is found in the Vaillant and Proterm models. Adjustment is made by turning the bolts on the valve. To change the power, you need to change the pressure. Values ​​of 1.3-2.5 kPa are considered normal.

Turn the bolts counterclockwise to relieve pressure. To decrease the pressure in the DHW mode, rotate the adjustment nut. details are shown in

How to set up a boiler with your own hands

Why do you need the correct adjustment of the technique:

  • To save resources.
  • To make it comfortable to be in the room, use hot water.
  • To extend the life of your equipment.

You need to start with the correct choice of the boiler, its power. Consider the features of the room: the number and area of ​​windows, doors, the quality of insulation, wall materials. The minimum calculation is based on heat losses per unit of time. You will learn more about this in the article “How to calculate the power of a gas boiler”.

Gas boilers are divided into single-circuit and double-circuit. The latter perform heating to the heating and hot water supply (DHW) circuit. Single-circuit units provide only heating. Therefore, to obtain hot water, indirect heating boilers are installed.

By type of placement, equipment can be floor-mounted and wall-mounted. The units placed on the floor are very powerful. Therefore, they are used for large areas (from 300 m²). Installation is carried out only in separate rooms (boiler rooms). These are the models Baxi (“Baksi”), Buderus (“Buderus”), “Navien”, “Kiturami”.

Hanging appliances (“Neva Lux”, “Arderia”, “Daewoo”, Ariston. Bosch) fit perfectly in small apartments in the kitchen. Therefore, it is important to take into account all the nuances of the location. The comfort of residents, as well as the durability of the boiler, depends on the correct selection of parameters.

Setting up a gas boiler: how to properly set the temperature, power

Gas equipment is ubiquitous in apartments and country houses. You independently regulate the equipment, setting a comfortable room temperature. This way you are not dependent on utilities, you can save fuel at your discretion. But for the operation to be really economical, the correct setting of the gas boiler is important.

Power setting

The heating power depends on the modulation of the gas burner. If you have chosen an electronically controlled device, then it turns on a thermostat that connects to a room thermometer. The regulation is automatic: the thermometer measures the temperature in the room. As soon as it falls below the comfort level, it gives a command to start the burner or increase the flame strength.

In normal mode, the thermometer only monitors the temperature in one room. But if you install valves in front of each radiator, control will be in all rooms.

The burner can be adjusted manually by acting on the gas valve. This is true for atmospheric boilers with an open combustion chamber. So, in the models Protherm “Cheetah”, “Proterm Medved” the valve is regulated by an electric motor. To change the settings, you need to go to the service menu. Most often, this is done by a specialist, and the user performs the actions specified in the instructions.

But still, we will tell you how to bring up the hidden menu for adjustment.

Before entering the menu and setting up, do this:

  • Unscrew the taps on the batteries.
  • Set the room thermostat to the maximum values.
  • In the user settings, set the maximum temperature that you use in severe frosts. The burner always turns off when the readings reach 5 ° C higher than the set ones. For example, at 75 degrees, the shutdown will occur when it reaches 80 degrees.
  • Cool the heat carrier to 30 ° С.

For Protherm Gepard:

  • Hold down the Mode key on the panel. As soon as the display shows “0”, set the value 35 by pressing “” and “-“.
  • Press Mode to confirm.
  • As soon as d lights up on the screen. 0, enter the line number in the menu. Do this with “” and “-” d. (Number). To set the maximum burner power select d.53, minimum. d.52.
  • Use Mode to move to parameter selection. Change it “” “-“.
  • Installation receives automatic confirmation.
  • Return to start menu. hold Mode.

During the regulation with the help of the panel, watch the flame changes and the temperature rise.

For Proterm Panther, the actions are different:

  • Press Mode for about 7 seconds.
  • Using keys 2 (see the picture above), enter the code 35.
  • Confirm Entry.
  • As soon as d.00 is displayed on the left side of the screen, use buttons 2 to enter the number.
  • You can change the parameter on the right side of the screen using keys 3.
  • After confirmation, press mode to exit the menu.

For Electrolux Quantum models:

  • Disconnect the device from the mains for a few seconds.
  • After switching on, hold the red button on the regulator for 15 seconds.
  • As soon as the display shows P01, press the red key until P07 appears.
  • If after Р07 the number 1 blinks, then 38 ° С – 85 ° С is maintained. If shines 4. 60 ° С – 85 ° С, 7. 38 ° С – 60 ° С.
  • Use the “” “-” knob to adjust the desired value.
  • Switch off the boiler for a few seconds. Now it will automatically support the given parameters.

How to program a Viessmann technique, see

For Eurosit 630:

All the above steps are used to set the device in heating mode. Many users are faced with a problem when, in the DHW mode, water of an unstable temperature comes from the tap. To fix this, use our recommendations.

Startup problems

During the start-up and operation of gas equipment “Bosch”, “Ariston”, “Ferroli”, “Oasis”, problems may arise.

Boiler cycle

With the wrong choice of equipment power, excessive cyclicity occurs. This means that the burner of the device is often turned on and off, and the radiators do not have time to warm up. Firstly, this leads to rapid wear of units and parts of equipment. Secondly, a lot of fuel is used.

To eliminate the phenomenon and reduce the cyclicality, two methods are used:

  • Reduces burner flame.
  • Increase heating power by including additional radiators in the circuit.

We described above how to accomplish the first point. Sometimes you have to mount additional batteries, although this is a rather expensive way.

The igniter does not work

If the attempts to ignite at Immergaz, Korea Star were unsuccessful, inspect the igniter. It could get clogged. The problem is eliminated by cleaning the part. You can wipe it down with a dry cloth or use a solvent.

Examine the combustion block. Soot often accumulates there. Lightly tapping on the gas supply pipe to the burner removes soot.

The igniter has worked, but there is still no ignition. Diagnostics required:

  • thermocouples;
  • supply valve;
  • thermostat;
  • solenoid valve.

No DHW heating

When the mixer is opened, water is supplied with a low pressure, the flow is cold. Inspect the heat exchanger for blockages caused by scale deposits. Clean the tubes with reagents. Use a pump for priming. After the procedure, rinse the assembly with running water. For comfortable temperature readings, install cleaning filters. They reduce the likelihood of lime scale formation.

You can find recommendations from the manufacturer in the instructions. Correct connection and adjustment of equipment is the key to its effective and long-term operation.

Optimum temperature of the coolant in a gas boiler in terms of heating costs

On many forums, people ask the question of what temperature of the coolant to set on the boiler when using a thermostat in order to pay less. Then the respondents begin theoretical reasoning. Some say put less, others. put more. In short, I did not find a single practical study, and I decided to fix this matter. The testing technique is simple: wait a few days when the outside temperature is almost constant and the sun does not shine (to avoid heating the external walls and internal rooms through the windows) and measure gas consumption at different values ​​of the coolant temperature. Being forward-thinking, I also measured the current consumption of the boiler. It is easy to see that at a high temperature of the coolant, the boiler heats up the room faster, leaving a heat reserve in the batteries for some time. The thermostat switches off and the heating with the circulation pump is turned off. At low temperatures of the coolant, the heat from the batteries is barely enough to maintain the set air temperature in the room, and the burner with a circulation pump works almost all the time. Well, since electricity is now more expensive than gas, its consumption by the boiler should also be taken into account for a more objective assessment of heating costs.

For testing we used: a rustic wooden house, 23 sq.m with lousy insulation and 15 sq.m. with good insulation, only 38 sq.m. heated area (if necessary, the battery is turned on in another room, but usually it is turned off as unnecessary and there is 9 degrees. it was turned off in the test). Viessmann Vitopend 100 24 kW boiler, eight-section aluminum batteries. The thermostat is set at 20.5 degrees. DHW was not used for the purity of the experiment. The temperature outside is almost always 8.10 degrees during the day and at night. Of course, for the purity of the experiment, it is necessary to use a stand with a constant outside temperature, but I do not have such an opportunity, so I will have to accept some inaccuracy. Each installation was tested for 24 hours 13 minutes in the following sequence: 50, 70, 60.40 degrees.

  • Pump and burner = 114 (120) W.
  • Pump without burner = 71 (80) W.
  • Standby = 1.5W.

Estimated for 2018 were taken for the Moscow and Vladimir regions for comparison.

in the Moscow region: gas 5.523 r / m3, electricity 5.38 r / kWh

in the Vladimir region: gas 4.98 r / m3, electricity 5.18 r / kWh (discount price 4.37 to 100 kWh / month is not taken into account in this test).

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If anyone is interested, separately with the heating turned off, four test showers were carried out, about 10-15-20 minutes each (did not calculate up to a minute), the averaged values ​​of these tests 0.44 m3 0.029 kWh give us the approximate cost of one “typical” shower:

In the Moscow region: 2.430.16 = 2.59 rubles.

In the Vladimir region: 2.190.15 = 2.34 rubles.

Next, I give the consumption of gas and electricity at various settings of the coolant temperature.

6.343 m3 / 1.947 kWh

M 35.03 10.47 = 45.50r

At 31.59 10.08 = 41.67r

6.140 m3 / 0.944 kWh

M 33.91 6.32 = 40.23r

B 30.58 4.89 = 35.47r

6.344 m3 / 0.674 kWh

M 35.04 3.63 = 38.67r

B 31.59 3.49 = 35.08r

6.515 m3 / 0.555 kWh

M 35.98 2.99 = 38.97r

At 32.44 2.88 = 35.32r

Of course, one series of tests is not enough to draw final conclusions, but preliminary conclusions can be drawn:

  • Heating with a temperature of 40 degrees is economically ineffective. At a coolant temperature of 40 degrees, the boiler did not heat up approximately 0.3-0.5 degrees to the temperature set on the thermostat. The heating and circulation pump were not turned off, which led to an increased power consumption (3.5 times more than with a coolant of 70 degrees). At the same time, the gas consumption turned out to be even higher than at a coolant temperature of 50 degrees. Thus, it turned out to be the most expensive mode for heating a house. It is definitely worth refraining from it in case of problems with the power supply, for example, when the boiler is operating from a backup battery.
  • At a coolant temperature of 50 degrees, the gas consumption turned out to be the lowest of all tests, however, the circulation pump worked for almost half of the test time, which led to not the lowest electricity costs, which is why, with the lowest gas consumption, this mode turned out to be slightly more expensive than the next one.
  • The heating mode at a temperature of 60 degrees turned out to be optimal in terms of the total cost of gas and electricity. Although gas consumption is less at 50 degrees, and electricity consumption is less at 70 degrees, this mode is the golden mean in terms of total costs at current prices.
  • If you set the coolant temperature to 70 degrees, you will save a little more electricity, but spend a little more gas. Also, this mode leads to more noticeable jumps in the temperature in the house (the batteries continue to heat the air by inertia much higher than the temperature set on the thermostat even when the heating in the boiler is turned off).

I did not test the 80 degrees mode for the following reasons:

  • such severe frosts, when I really need it, I have not yet seen.
  • hot batteries smell like burnt dust.
  • high temperatures lead to faster wear of polypropylene pipes, so you shouldn’t go beyond 70 degrees without much need, IMHO.

In general, according to the test results, it turns out that the temperature of the coolant 60-65 degrees will be optimal in terms of heating consumption, of course, in these specific conditions, at 9 degrees outside. When the outside temperature, the boiler, the batteries and the house change, the values ​​can change in an unpredictable way. I will assume that at a temperature of about zero, setting 50-55 degrees will be more effective from an economic point of view, and when the outdoor temperature drops to.20 degrees, I think setting 70-75 degrees will give a better effect, although I have not yet had the opportunity to do this. check.

If a more uniform temperature in the house (without strong jumps) is more important than saving each ruble, then it makes sense to choose a mode when the maximum amount of heat given off by the coolant approximately corresponds to your needs (that is, the boiler works constantly, but does not underestimate the temperature in the house is lower than desired. Electricity bills will increase, but the temperature in the house will not change dramatically. In my test, setting the coolant temperature to 40 degrees did not fully cope with heating the house to 20.5 degrees, which means setting 45-50 degrees will be optimal in terms of comfort (but not money!) specifically at 9 degrees outside.

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Equipment wear should also be considered. They write that at a coolant temperature of less than 70-75 degrees, condensate forms in the boiler, which is very harmful to it (unless the boiler is condensing). At the same time, high temperatures do not have the best effect on the service life of polypropylene pipes, and a boiler operating at the power limit is likely to last less without repair than with moderate settings. Although a lot here depends on the quality of the boiler and the quality of the pipes.

If, hypothetically, the temperature would remain constant throughout the heating season (6 months), then the costs would be as follows:

  • T = 40, in the Moscow region, 7500 rubles in the VO.
  • T = 50, in the Moscow region, 6385 rubles in the VO.
  • T = 60, in MO, 6314 rubles in VO.
  • T = 70, in MO, 6356 rubles in VO.

Thus, choosing the most optimal mode for your boiler, you can reduce heating costs in the winter in the Moscow region by 1229 rubles and in the Vladimir region by 1186 rubles. For larger houses, the difference should be more noticeable.

Also, in the forums, many complain about the excessive consumption of gas, they ask how many cubes are spent on heating. I indicated the specific consumption above. I was also interested to know the average rate. On the website of gas tariffs for the Moscow region, the calculated rate of gas consumption per month for residential buildings without meters is indicated:

  • Heating water using a gas water heater 13.10 m³ / person.
  • Individual (apartment) heating of residential premises (residential buildings, apartments, rooms) within the standard of the normative area of ​​7.00 m³ / m² of heated area.

According to my estimates, if you wash as I described above 15 minutes a day, wash your hands and dishes as needed, the real gas consumption for hot water supply is obtained, well, let it be 0.65 m3 per day per person, that is, 19.5 m3 per month. here we obviously overpay. Although it still depends on the temperature of the supplied water. on warmer days, less gas should be used for heating.

Well, in terms of area, 38 m2 7 m3 = 266 cubic meters per month according to the norms. With heating with T = 60 and 9 degrees, we have 190 cubic meters per month, or 5.00 m3 / m2 of heated area. there is a tangible saving. But again, it should be noted that these are theoretical calculations, provided that the temperature outside is constant, about 9 degrees. If you are not lazy, I will try to repeat this test in more severe frosts for comparison.

Also write in the comments if someone conducts a similar test in their home. My test may contain some unaccounted for errors, and if there are a lot of tests, from different houses and with different boilers, it will be possible to almost accurately determine the average optimal temperature of the coolant under different real conditions, I am not content only with theoretical reflections that are fed to us on the Internet.

Tags: increase the opening temperature of the thermostat

Communities ›Do It Yourself› Blog ›Increase Thermostat Opening Temperature.

Winter came cold. It became cold in the car.

First, I checked how long the engine takes to warm up from 0 to 40 degrees. got 4 minutes.

Then I took out a thermostat in the garage and checked at what temperature it opens. it opened at 84 degrees in the casserole, it makes no sense to buy a new one. this is the third new one and all from different companies. Pramo, Ween and LSA.

I didn’t like the whole thing, and I decided to redo the thermostat a little.

There you can pull out and file the stem, thereby shifting the opening temperature, I sawed the stem for each pass by 1.5-2 mm.

As a result, they managed to shift from 84 to 94 degrees. I did it in 4 approaches, each time raising the temperature by about 3 degrees.

How I did it and what happened in the end. see this

Comments 80

it was possible to measure with a barbell

Something it reminds of the preparation of the car for the Grand Prix race, 95, dry sump and add. oil cooling. Preparation of M412. publishing house “DOSAF” / damn forgot to write /. For 1980.

I did this 10 years ago, working method. And you can also take a thermostat of a smaller diameter and add it to the rubber band and sealant, and you can start the engine after half an hour of the collective farm

Cold weather has come in Ukraine. freak out, I’m shocked !

What are you talking about. Ukraine is big. There is both a warm and a cold climate.

also went through about five thermos flasks, and cardboard boxes in front of the radik) stopped at metal incar, opening 87, 90-92 degrees in all modes

In YouTube, the garbage dump is full of such alterations. But As my teacher said, “Will you give a guarantee that after that he will work as it should?”

I didn’t watch the video, but the essence is clear.
It seems like an adult.
Why boil the engine? It’s like if a window is knocked out in the apartment, and instead of inserting glass, you install 3 more batteries and increase their temperature.

before there were thermostats for opening 92 degrees, then the euro went 2-3-4-5-6, but here the heating started to decrease, the fuel does not burn completely in the pots, tk. it is necessary to feed the catalysts with something, so that the output is CO2 and H2O, and not all sorts of heavy impurities, and there is also EGR, in the sense that it appeared
but the katalik still dies and they don’t run to buy a new one from us, but for some reason they put a flame arrester
and antifreeze in a closed system with a lid of 0.9 atm, begins to boil after 110 degrees, at 1.1 like 120, but on the temperature indicator after the working one, the trace of the scale is 125 degrees and this has not changed for a long time, why?
on modern cars, even radiators from Euro 4 to the size of a kondeya radiator, why?

It used to be. Was it on this particular car before? the temperature depends primarily on the operation of the engine and how it is designed.
If everything is designed to work at a specific temperature, then at temperatures above or below this value, the engine will not work in optimal mode and with great wear.
For example, I have a diesel engine and Euro 4, but the radiator is quite decent in size, although it seems that the diesel also heats less and Euro 4.


before, there were thermostats to open 92 degrees, then the euro went 2-3-4-5-6, but here the heating decreased, the fuel does not burn completely in the pots, because it is necessary to feed the catalysts with something, so that the output is CO2 and H2O, and not all sorts of heavy impurities, and there is also EGR, in the sense that it appeared
but the katalik still dies and they don’t run to buy a new one from us, but for some reason they put a flame arrester
and antifreeze in a closed system with a lid of 0.9 atm, begins to boil after 110 degrees, at 1.1 like 120, but on the temperature indicator after the working one, the trace of the scale is 125 degrees and this has not changed for a long time, why?
on modern cars, even radiators from Euro 4 to the size of a kondeya radiator, why?

This is not the car on which the radiator is small and the engine does not heat up, maybe the temperature threshold is increased in modern conditions, but all the conditions for this are met, but what about?) I have a thermos for 87 and everything works and the stove is hot and the motor is on the track keeps 87 on the tidy and in the computer. It is banal that the firmware on this miracle is made for temperature corrections, including, the operating temperature of this motor is 90 degrees, maybe 95 and everything would be cool, but we miscalculated so much with the pump that it is worth sitting on it in a traffic jam and the rape of the fan begins, that’s why they stand there such thermostats, the way out, I think, is to change the thermostats according to the season to keep the engine temperature in the region of 87-90g. For example, I noticed that if there is an 80g thermostat, and the cold comes, the car starts to subside and, as a result, horse consumption)


before there were thermostats for opening 92 degrees, then the euro went 2-3-4-5-6, but here the heating started to decrease, the fuel does not burn completely in the pots, tk. it is necessary to feed the catalysts with something, so that the output is CO2 and H2O, and not all sorts of heavy impurities, and there is also EGR, in the sense that it appeared
but the katalik still dies and they don’t run to buy a new one from us, but for some reason they put a flame arrester
and antifreeze in a closed system with a lid of 0.9 atm, begins to boil after 110 degrees, at 1.1 like 120, but on the temperature indicator after the working one, the trace of the scale is 125 degrees and this has not changed for a long time, why?
on modern cars, even radiators from Euro 4 to the size of a kondeya radiator, why?

Hello. To be honest, the opposite is true).
Now all the problems of modern engines are precisely due to high temperatures. Electronically controlled thermostats are able to maintain the temperature at 115 ° C and in traffic jams in the heat with sharp accelerations, it rises even more. Hence all the problems with stuck rings, seizures, oil consumption. All the “oil” forums are discussing this.
And all this for the sake of ecology for a more complete combustion of fuel and with direct injection for lower consumption. Here is the arrow on the tidy, on the same VAGs, for any actual temperature of the antifreeze it will show 90 ° C).

Comfortable floor temperature

For whom this may be a discovery, but the warm floor is practically not felt by the feet. In the literal sense of the word. You can walk barefoot on the floor in the expectation that I am about to feel this warmth and learn all the charm of warm floors. But it was not there.

Adequate heating of the surface of a water-heated floor does not exceed 28 degrees. That is why it is difficult to feel anything with your feet. The body temperature is simply higher. And all that you experience is comfort from the fact that your feet are not cold.

Of course, each variety has certain indicators, but the standard limits are determined by SNiP. This document clearly specifies the maximum and minimum temperature of the floor covering. It can vary between 26-35 degrees.

    Taking into account the physiological characteristics of a person, the floor temperature should not exceed the following limits:
  • 29 degrees (with an optimal 26). corridors, hallways, kitchens, living rooms. In sleeping rooms, children’s and playrooms, the temperature should be several divisions lower, due to the operating conditions.
  • 34 degrees. the floor in the bathroom and toilet;
  • 35 degrees. for places characterized by high heat loss (windows, perimeter along the outer walls).
  • Heating the floor to such a value allows you to provide the room with a temperature regime at around 20 degrees, for living quarters, and 24, for rooms with a high level of humidity (bathroom). Experts recommend, in rooms with high traffic, to keep the heating of the floor surface at a value of 26 ° C.

    If the room has low permeability, then it is advisable to raise the temperature to 31 ° C. The main limitation, which is indicated in the regulatory documents, is the observance of the temperature along the heating axes. It should not exceed 35 ° C, otherwise the system itself and the floor covering overheat.

    In the case of overheating, not only the system suffers, but also the person, since it is unpleasant to walk on a surface that is too warm. In addition, temperature fluctuations in high ranges can compromise the integrity of the flooring. For each type of finish, certain boundaries are recommended, exceeding which is undesirable.

    Why is your temperature much higher?

    It quite often happens when the heating of the coolant in the boiler reaches 60-70 degrees. In this case, the floors can be barely warm. This is due primarily to an incorrectly mounted system.

    In this situation, there can be three reasons:

    • The most common. They did not put in the proper thermal insulation or used an option that was too thin. From this, part of your heat goes down and you are forced to “fire” to high temperatures in order to somehow feel the warmth.
    • Less common. Warm floors were installed with a large installation step and from this the house cannot warm up.
    • The heat loss of your home is higher than that for the use of water-heated floors. Therefore, you cannot warm up the house.

    There are also cases when the temperature of the water-heated floor on the surface, on the contrary, is too high. And if you lower it, it gets cold. Here, as an option, you can sin on the fact that a sufficiently thin screed was poured and it simply does not accumulate enough heat.

      Here are some recommendations for installing a water heated floor that will allow you to avoid problems with the wrong temperature:
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  • Use good thermal insulation. Expanded polystyrene with a thickness of at least 5 cm.
  • Pour the screed 5 cm high from the pipe surface.
  • Use a 15 cm pitch in the main areas, 10 cm in the edge areas.
  • Make a heating project and mount the system on it. Then you definitely can’t go wrong.
  • Heat carrier temperature in the warm floor

    The most comfortable conditions for a person are considered to be such conditions when the temperature of the floor surface is 22-25 ° С, and the air heating at the head level is 19-20 ° С.

    Sanitary standards limit the air temperature: in living quarters. 18-24 ° C (optimal 20-22 ° C), in bathrooms and toilets. 18-26 ° C (optimal 24-26 ° C), in lobbies, storerooms and staircases. 12-22 ° C (optimal 16-18 ° C).

    In the structures of underfloor heating systems, in particular, water underfloor heating (EHF), heat energy is distributed and transferred, which depend both on the heat load and on the parameters of the heating panel (thermophysical and geometric), the diameter of the pipes of the underfloor heating circuits, and their material and laying step, topcoat material, type of heating medium, flow meter settings, etc.

    In most cases, the energy requirement is covered by an effective surface heat dissipation of 80 W / m², however, in order to make calculations based on this value, the building must comply with thermal protection standards.

    At the same time, the outer walls of buildings in which the ECP installation is supposed to have the recommended heat transfer coefficient k Each of these methods has its supporters and opponents, however, in our opinion, to ensure good regulation of the internal climate, their combined use is optimal.

    If the ECP is used not only for heating, but also for cooling premises, then from the point of view of energy efficiency it is important that the temperature levels of heating and cooling systems form a unified whole, and not compete with each other.

    Here, the most effective will be the use of weather-dependent regulation, which can turn off one system and turn on the other, depending on a certain level of outside temperature.

    Heating rate of warm floors

      According to their characteristics, heating systems can be divided into two types:
  • Water, where the function of the coolant is performed by water, antifreeze or ethylene glycol solutions.
  • Electric, where carbon rods, electric cables or infrared film act as a coolant.
  • Each system has its own advantages and disadvantages. The heating time of such floors depends on the design of the heat carriers and the depth at which they are laid.

    A warm water floor takes a long time to warm up. The heating time can be 20. 30 hours, for the legs the temperature rise will be noticeable after about 5 hours. Most of the time and energy is spent on heating the screed, which on average reaches a thickness of 5 cm.

    Only after it has been heated does heat return to the room. After shutdown, a comfortable surface and room temperature can be maintained throughout the day. As a rule, the total heating and cooling time depends on the thickness of the tightening elements. A significant drawback of such a coolant is the complexity of installation.

    Temperature control

  • Overlay thermostat. Mount it on the manifold. Pipes are used with an operating temperature of 95 degrees, because the heating of a water-heated floor in the supply will be high.
  • Can be adjusted using a three-way valve.
  • Using a mixing module or alternatively a mixing module.
  • With room thermostats and servo drives on the manifold.
  • To create comfortable conditions, as well as to save the consumed resource consumption, special devices are provided that allow you to regulate and control the temperature of the warm floor. The types of regulation should be considered within each individual system.

    Water systems are equipped with thermostatic valves or pump-mixing groups with automatic control. With their use, the possibility of overheating of the floor covering is excluded.

    In addition, they are able to respond to changes in the temperature regime in the room, and to close or open valves in order to maintain an optimal heating level.

      Adjustment of infrared and electric floors. To monitor and regulate the temperature, the following devices are provided for such systems:
  • electromechanical regulators;
  • digital devices;
  • programmable devices.
  • The complex of the system provides not only a regulator, but also special sensors that monitor the change in the heating mode. For safety, they have a shutdown function that is triggered when the system reaches the maximum temperature limit.

    When the temperature drops, they turn on again. Such a system is energy efficient, because it saves about 40-50% of consumed resources.

    Established standards for surface temperatures of underfloor heating

    In the reference book of Building Norms and Rules (SNiP), strict regulations are established on the account of what the floor temperature should be. According to clause 44-01-2003, the maximum and minimum parameter of the warm floor must be in the range of 26 and 35 ° С.

    The minimum point of 26 ° C should only be set if people are constantly in the room. If visitors rarely enter the room, then the optimal temperature should be at around 31 ° C.

    The main limitation is that the temperature along the heating axes should not exceed the permissible 35 ° C, a higher temperature will cause unwanted overheating of the system and flooring.

    The values ​​of the floor temperature comfortable for a person in a standing position from various materials (in a sitting position, people prefer temperatures 1 ‘C. 2 C higher), depending on the time of contact

    Floor construction (thickness) Heat loss kJ / m2 Optimum floor temperature ° C Recommended floor temperature range ° C
    1 min 10 minutes 1 min 10 minutes 1 min (10% unsatisfied) 10 minutes (15% unsatisfied)
    Textile cover 17 75 19 24 8.30 20.28
    Fluffy (velvet) carpet 20 91 21 24.5 12.30.5 21.28
    Sisel carpet 14 123 23 25 15.5. 31 22.5. 28
    Non-woven fabric cover 21 111 22 25 13.30.5 22.28
    Cork floor (5 mm) 26 145 24 26 17.31 23.28
    Pine plank floor 29 124 2S 25 18.5. 31 22.5. 28
    Oak plank floor 36 182 26 26 21.5. 31.5 24.5. 28
    Wooden floor 38 134 26.5 25.5 22.31.5 23.28
    Vinylbest tiles 80 485 thirty 28.5 28.32.3 27.5. 29
    PVC covering with felt base 49 242 28 27 24.5. 32 25.5. 28
    PVC coated (2 mm) 60 36S 29 27.5 26.32 26.5. 28.5
    Mosaic floor (S mm) on aerated concrete 60 301 29 27 26.32 26.5. 28.5
    Mosaic floor (b mm) on cork (20 mm) 63 211 29 26.5 26.5. 32 25.28
    Solid linoleum (2.5 mm) on wood floor 46 176 28 26 24.32 24.28
    Hard linoleum (2.2 mm) on concrete 45 296 28 27 23.5. 32 26.28.5
    Painted concrete floor 77 467 thirty 26.5 27.5. 32.5 27.5. 29
    Concrete pop fifty 298 28.5 27 24.6. 32.0 26.28.5
    Marble 7S S11 thirty 29 27.5. 32.5 28.29.5
    Concrete slabs finished with steel trowel 63 475 29 28.5 26.5. 32 27.5. 29
    Concrete slabs finished with a wooden trowel 60 419 29 28 26.0. 32 27.29

    For a parquet surface, the maximum value is 27 ° C. This is due to the peculiarities of the material and its thermal properties; overheating of such a floor covering can lead to its deformation.

    For a comfortable stay in the room, 22-24 ° C is enough. This temperature is pleasant for the feet and heats the indoor air evenly. Unlike classic batteries, the heating of the air will be maximum over the entire height of the site. In practice, a coolant value of 30 ° C is rarely achieved.

    As a rule, all parameters are calculated at the design stage of the heated surface. Before installing water and electrical heating systems, their tasks and indicators of heat loss of the room should be taken into account.

    Temperature of warm water floors: optimal and comfortable

    The temperature of warm water floors should always create comfort in the room. This heating system is gaining more and more popularity in the market. Thanks to it, the heat is evenly distributed between the floor and ceiling, and the humidity indicator is always optimal.

    The warm floor is easy to install and has a long service life. Experts believe that the optimal temperature of the water in the pipes should be 40C, so that the floor does not take away excess electricity.

    In this article, we will consider information about what the optimal temperature should be for underfloor heating. Also consider the recommended temperature for different floor coverings.

    Optimum floor temperature

    A water heating system, unlike electric models, provides for the presence of a concrete screed, which has a higher heating rate. Therefore, before proceeding with the consideration of what should be the floor temperature for the finish coating, you first need to familiarize yourself with the standard readings of the coolant flow.

    For a pleasant walk on a comfortable floor and in order to avoid deformation of the concrete screed with pipelines, the maximum temperature of the coolant at the entrance to the heating system should not exceed. 60 degrees.

    The optimal value of the supplying fluid flow is considered to be 40. 50 degrees. The temperature drop of the coolant for the warm floor and return flow should vary within 5. 15 degrees. If these standards are not observed, problems with the pressure of the coolant may also arise.

    To make warm floors comfortable and bring pleasure, not harm (and if they overheat, this is also possible, because too high an air temperature can lead to fatigue and overheating of the body), we recommend keeping in mind the following points.

    This is due to the physiological characteristics of human tactile sensations. At surface temperatures above about 31 ° C, the warmth is no longer felt by the foot as comfortable.

      According to SNiP 41-01-2003, clause 6.5.12, it is recommended that the average floor temperature does not exceed:

  • 26 ° C for premises with constant presence of people;
  • 31 ° C for rooms with temporary stay of people and swimming pool bypass paths;
  • the surface temperature of the floor along the axis of the heating element in childcare facilities, residential buildings and swimming pools should not exceed 35 ° C;
  • for childcare facilities and premises with the constant presence of children, including preschool institutions, in accordance with the Sanitary Norms and Rules (VSN-49-86), the recommended floor heating is no higher than 24 ° C. Similar rules apply abroad.
  • It is in order to avoid overheating of floors that most thermostats (thermostats) limit the upper temperature to 40 ° C. Note, by the way, that the parameter monitored by the thermal sensor corresponds to the temperature at the place of its installation.

    With a thick screed, it may differ from the temperature on the floor surface (usually slightly lower on the surface). Therefore, by the way, it is recommended to install the sensor as close to the floor surface as possible. The use of cable heating systems without thermostats using, for example, simple switches, is generally prohibited VTTKSO.

    If you have any doubts that the floor heating corresponds to the one you set on the thermostat, this can be checked using, for example, an infrared thermometer. If the underfloor heating does not heat up or does not heat well (it began to heat up much less than it used to be), the floor temperature sensor may malfunction.

    A separate issue is the temperature of the floor for coatings such as parquet and laminate. The use of a warm floor in this case requires more care and is not always advisable, because the same parquet feels much warmer than ceramic tiles.

    It should also be borne in mind that when heated to about 30 ° C, a normal parquet can cause destruction of the varnish coating and deformation, which will never happen if you installed a warm floor under the tiles. It is possible to lay warm floors under the laminate, this applies, first of all, to film floors, limiting their temperature to 27. 29 ° С.

    At the same time, it is imperative to consult with the seller whether a particular laminate or parquet board is suitable for use with warm floors and to clarify the maximum temperature to be guided by when using a particular floor covering.

    Maximum temperature of warm water floors

    The concept of permissible temperature is defined in SNiP41-01-2003 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”. According to it, the maximum heating of a water-heated floor cannot exceed 26 ° C in those rooms where people are all the time.

    If the maximum temperature of the coolant in a warm water floor is 55 degrees, then this provides a comfortable floor heating. 28 ° C. It will not be superfluous to take into account the specifics of the flooring. They can withstand 27 ° C, but if the floor has been varnished, then you cannot cross the 21 ° C line. If there is a carpet on the floor, then you will have to add about 5 ° C.

    According to healthcare standards, if the premises where people are constantly staying should be 26 ° C, then in humid rooms. already 31. The same temperature should be provided for in those rooms where people stay for some time, and not constantly. Above the axis of the pipe should be 35 ° C, and on a parquet floor, the maximum is indicated at 27 ° C.

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