Band Saw How Easy To Make

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Band Saw How Easy To Make

When selecting equipment for a home workshop, a band saw is rarely included in the category of a priority tool: most operations can be performed without it. For a long time I did what I had, but as a result I matured for making a band saw. As a result of the searches, I came across the site of Canadian inventor Matthias Wandel. He suggested making a band saw almost entirely of wood. over, its characteristics were very decent, and then any spare part is not difficult to do yourself.

Key Features of my Homemade Band Saw

My saw is different from the one that was in the drawings of the developer, but I did not seek to repeat the project one to one. Much depends on the selected engine, saw bands and workpieces. I used the canvases that I could find. An asynchronous electric motor of suitable power was also lying in the bins. Saw blades were slightly shorter than recommended. I decided not to risk it and reduced the internal size of the frame by 10 mm.

Band saw design. Most of the details are made of wood.

We make a band saw frame

This is the main element of the machine. I used a pine inch, planed on a thicknesser to a thickness of 19 mm. The frame is glued from several layers of overlapping boards. Cannot be used for chipboard, MDF, plywood or furniture board frames. The frame has a C-shape, where the base for the guide mechanism of the tension with the upper wheel is mounted on top, and two legs are attached to the bottom, connected to the base. The frame consists of six main layers and additional overlays. To increase rigidity, diagonal elements are provided. With phased bonding, it is necessary to control the perpendicularity of the elements so that the frame is flat (without twisting). Rama glued without foundation, leaving empty grooves under it. It is more convenient to glue the base after installing the lower wheel axle block. My supply of clamps was not enough, and I additionally used self-tapping screws. The surfaces of the finished frame were sanded and varnished in two layers.

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1. Bonding the first layer of the frame. This operation sets the shape of the frame. 2.When gluing the following layers, the lack of clamps is compensated by self-tapping screws. 3. The guides for the movable block of the upper wheel are bolted to the finished frame. 5. Sawing the grooves in the movable frame of the upper wheel block under the insert. 5. Now the triangular inserts can be glued into the grooves of the moving frame 6. select the quarters on the sides. 7. The device for tensioning the blade. 8. In this position, the stop is visible assembled while without a rotation handle. Three adjusting screws of the adjustment block oak plates act as a spring. top wheel. 9. Bonding wheels of three plywood circles. 10. Flanges (part. with bearings) with linings are fitted to the wheel blanks and marked. 11. The engine pulley was sharpened directly on the engine itself.

Upper wheel mounting block

The next stage is the assembly and installation of the movable upper wheel mount. It should move in the vertical direction and provide tension to the saw blade. To do this, on the prepared “horns” of the frame, an oak profile was fixed, which forms a guide groove. A block is a rectangular frame with a movable upper wheel shaft holder inserted into it. Made a frame of oak wood. To strengthen the corner joints used additional inserts. Having glued the frame, sawed in the corners of the grooves. Then he cut out the triangular inserts and pasted them into the grooves. In conclusion, on the sides of the frame I chose quarters under the guides in the main frame. The frame should move in grooves without noticeable backlash. In the upper part of the frame, I installed a long bolt to move it and adjust the tension of the saw blade. On the holder (a bar with a hole and selected quarters on opposite sides) of the wheel shaft, a screw is installed at the top to adjust the inclination of the wheel. The holder is attached to the frame with two self-tapping screws, and due to the backlash, its mobility for adjustment is achieved. Under the screw there is a metal lining. The shaft in the holder after setting the saw is fixed with a self-tapping screw. Three oak plates create a springy effect when pulling the canvas.

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Making saw wheels

The saw wheels have a diameter of 400 mm. They just need to be made from plywood or MDF. My wheels came out 29 mm thick. Glued them from three plywood circles. The most important part here is the central part of the wheels. Billets cut using a milling machine. In the center of the circle, I drilled a hole of 0 6 mm and set the center of the milling compass into it. Then I used this hole to combine the workpieces and gluing. Cut circles with an allowance of 10 mm for finishing. Shafts 0 25 mm (for purchased bearings) I made a turner. They have a limiter on one side and an M12 internal thread on the other. For the manufacture of flanges used plywood. Before drilling holes for bearings in them, drilled a hole of 0 6 mm in the center and, aligning it with the center of the wheel, drilled four holes for dowels. The position of the flange on the wheel is marked. The flange consists of two parts. An outer part with a thickness of 15 mm holds the bearing, while an inner part with a thickness of 10 mm forms a gap between the wheel and the bearing. The diameter of the hole in the wheel should be slightly larger than the diameter of the shaft. The most important operation is drilling a hole with a diameter of 52 mm for the bearing in the outer part of the flange. Especially for this, I bought a 0 52 mm hole saw and after checking it polished it by 0.3 mm in outer diameter. The bearings were then pressed in with a mallet. Before gluing the flanges to the wheel, I cut out the holder of the lower wheel shaft. a wooden block with a hole for the shaft, which is attached to the bottom of the frame. Drilling a hole directly in the frame is undesirable: it is likely that the drill will lead away. The holder is easier to rotate to the angle necessary for correction. I drilled four technological holes in the wheels so that clamps could be threaded through them when glued. Immediately after gluing the wheel, he put it on the shaft. Thanks to the preliminary alignment of the flanges and the drilled holes for the dowels, one of my assembled wheels had practically no runout, but the second had an uncritical “eight” up to 3 mm. To fit the wheel to a size in diameter and to form a profile, it was necessary to connect the wheel to the engine. At the first stage I used a temporary pulley made of plywood. I screwed it with screws to the wheel. I machined the engine pulley using the engine itself, and then connected the engine and the temporary wheel pulley with a belt. Having fixed the wheel, I screwed the wooden block as a stop and turned the wheel to 0 400 mm using turning tools. The diameter of the wheel on the shaft is difficult to control, so I measured the circumference. It is equal to 1 256 mm. The machined edge of the wheel gave a barrel-shaped shape. Thanks to this, the tape does not slide off the wheel, but, on the contrary, self-centers on it. The bevel angle should be 5 degrees on each side.

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Video: Band Saw How Easy To Make


12. When all the parts were ready, glued the flanges to the wheel. 13. The holder used the lower shaft mounting block. 14. The wheel is turned to the desired diameter, giving the edge a barrel-shaped shape. The bevel in each direction is approximately 5 degrees. 15.After the preliminary assembly of the wheel. 16. A guide complete with blocks of basic bearings. 17. A guide is installed with an upper support bearing, but so far without “crackers”. Rubber chambers are pulled over the wheels (they must be glued after final assembly). 18. The support of the desktop is equipped with set adjustment in one plane. tilt mechanism

Having made both wheels, I installed a standard drive pulley on one of them (read about a similar solution here). I adjusted its thickness and shape to the belt used, and calculated the diameter so that the speed of the saw blade was approximately 800 m / min. Now it only remained to balance the wheels. For this, I took bearings with an external 0 22 mm. Then they used them as support for the saw blade. Having fixed the temporal axis horizontally and putting the bearings on it, he set the wheel so that it could easily rotate, and its heaviest part would go down. With a Forstner drill, he made small indentations in the lower zone of the wheel on the back side. As a result of such manipulations, I got the wheel to stop turning in any position. This ended the balancing. The wheels are varnished in two layers.

Then the wheels pulled the cut cameras from the 16 ″ wheels of a children’s bike. Rubber protects wheel surfaces from damage to the web, reduces noise and prevents slippage. The balancing, however, had to be repeated.

Attaching the wheels to the band saw frame

The first set the top wheel. I put on fluoroplastic washers on the shaft. The wheel was bolted with a thick washer, screwing it into the shaft end. Adjusting bolt set the upper wheel parallel to the frame. The lower wheel block was fixed on the frame with clamps and hung the lower wheel. Using a ruler and fluoroplastic washers, I set the wheels in one plane. By displacing the lower block, he ensured that the line connecting the centers of the shafts was parallel to the vertical rack of the frame. This operation was performed with a standard saw blade installed. After setting, the lower shaft mount block is fixed. After checking the rotation of the saw manually, I decided on a trial run. Being careful, turned on the machine. The tests were successful. The tape moved in the middle of the wheels, no vibration and suspicious noises. Replacing the canvas with the narrowest, conducted a second test. It was possible to glue the base under the engine and mount it to the frame. 21. A work table is installed with a zero clearance plate and a saw tension mechanism knob. The machine is ready for testing. 22. The desktop can be tilted at the right angle. The reference self-tapping screw for adjusting the desktop position is visible. 23. Robust frame of the mobile pedestal. 24. Engine protection shield.

Setting the guide rails

The smooth end of the saw band rests against the outer ring of the bearing, and “crackers” hold it from the sides. At first I made fluoroplastic “crackers,” but they quickly wore out. Therefore (on the advice of the author) replaced them with wooden ones. I used a rectangular dural pipe as a protective casing, cutting it with a circular saw. The casing was screwed to the tire with screws. The tire must be set with high accuracy, since with a length of 300 mm, even a slight skew in relation to the saw blade will be noticeable. For mounting the tire in the frame, I chose a groove. The marking was performed on a stretched wide canvas. Then he specified the groove layout according to the size of the guide rail. But no matter how I tried, when sampling the groove, I made a mistake of 0.3 mm, which led to an error at the bottom point of almost 4 mm. Therefore, I cut a corner from the rest of the dural pipe, expanded the groove in the frame to its thickness, and glued several pieces of self-adhesive paper 0.1 mm thick to correct the position. Having achieved the desired result, he fixed the corner with screws. The latch has two holes. One main. for the maximum clamping area of ​​the tire, the second is used only with very thick workpieces to maximize the tire.

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Making a desktop for a do-it-yourself band saw

First made a support with a table tilt mechanism. He made it from oak wood. The lower block of thrust bearings is attached to it. To the rotary mechanism of the table I attached a lining made of chipboard to increase the rigidity of the table. On the table itself, I threw a piece of chipboard worktop. It is quite thick and durable, and its surface is smooth and slippery. Edged with beech battens. I cut a rectangular hole in the working area in the table, and then milled a recess under the MDF insert. The insert was installed with the saw turned on: it started the insert in the grooves and pushed it all the way, while sawing it to the desired length. When turning the table at an angle, the insert is either removed at all or made a new one at a specific angle. I made a knob on the nut of the mechanism for tensioning the canvases. I set the tension force on the eye. it is almost impossible to tear the canvas. To make it more convenient to expose the table perpendicular to the canvas, made an additional emphasis for the table. A self-tapping screw screwed in allows you to adjust the position of the table. And so that the sawdust does not stick to the wheels, I installed a cropped toothbrush on the lower wheel.

Making a cabinet for a saw

I chose the dimensions of the cabinet based on the dimensions of the base of the saw, and I adjusted the height so that the table was at a level of 1,050 mm from the floor. for me it is just right. The cabinet was made of scraps of a grooved floorboard with a thickness of 35 mm. The cabinet frame was assembled on dowels. The corners inside reinforced with metal corners. Side inserts. from laminated particleboard. The back wall is made of MDF. In general, all of the scraps. The upper drawer for collecting sawdust. The cabinet is mounted on wheels with the possibility of their fixation.

25. The right wall of the casing of the lower wheel is beveled at the top to facilitate the replacement of saw blades. 26. The rear wall of the lower wheel guard is mounted obliquely and guides the sawdust into the box. 27.The parallel emphasis is fixed to the desktop. Installation of protection. 28. This is how the protection of moving elements looks. The start button for the saw and the backlight switch are installed.

Protective guards and saw body elements are also guides for sawdust removal. All working elements of the saw are protected by screens. As a material for casings and screens I used MDF with a thickness of 8 mm and pine boards.

Wiring

In addition to the start button, I immediately decided to set the backlight of the working area. To do this, I used a lamp with a flexible bracket, and its switch was located next to the start button. He passed the wires through the frame and secured it from behind.

Parallel emphasis

The band saw could already be used, but there was a lack of parallel emphasis. The mechanism for fixing the stop was built on the basis of an eccentric. Due to the rounded front edge of the table, it was necessary to additionally cut a movable pusher with a semicircular leading edge. The tire of emphasis was made of larch. On the opposite side of the tire attached a grip that abuts against the edge of the table. It took me almost two months to make the saw. True, I did not work on it every day. The project was very exciting. I am satisfied with the work of the machine. Now I can’t even imagine how I used to do without a band saw. As a test for the saw, I made several boxes.