Band Saw setup/tuning guide. Band saw set up

Bandsaws Accessories

If you have ever tried to resaw long stock on your Band saw then you know how difficult it can be with smaller Band saw tables. With the Super Wide Miter Guide the length of your stock is no longer an issue. The extra wide aluminum guide track fits into the standard 3/4″ x 3/8″ miter slot on your bandsaw table. The 36″ Super Wide Miter Guide has a standard size miter track milled right down the middle for the ability to use an endless amount of jigs and fixtures. This means you can use the Super Wide Guide on not only your bandsaw, but your router table and table saw too. See more product details

Super Wide Miter Guide /h3>

Working With Long Stock Just Got Easier! If you have ever tried to resaw long stock on your Band saw then you know how difficult it can be with smaller Band saw tables. With the Super Wide Miter Guide the length of your stock is no longer an issue. The extra wide aluminum guide track fits into the standard 3/4″ x 3/8″ miter slot on your bandsaw table. The 36″ Super Wide Miter Guide has a standard size miter track milled right down the middle for the ability to use an endless amount of jigs and fixtures. This means you can use the Super Wide Guide on not only your bandsaw, but your router table and table saw too.

Features

  • Standard 3/4″ x 3/8″ Miter Slot
  • Included with the package are 2 hold down clamps
  • The legs simply connect on to the Super Wide Miter Guide with standard 1/4″ x 20tpi knobs
  • Easily adjustable Legs
  • Designed To Use Multiple Jigs

Package Includes

Note: Bandsaw Not Included

band, setup, tuning, guide

Standard 3/4″ x 3/8″ Miter Slot

The Super Wide Miter Guide has a miter milled on the bottom to allow it to fit into the miter on your Band saw table. It also has a standard miter on the top that allows for multiple jigs to be used with the Super Wide Miter Guide.

Included in the Hardware

Included with the package are 2 hold down clamps that secures the Super Wide Miter Guide to the Band saw table and locking it in place.

Leg Connections

The legs simply connect on to the Super Wide Miter Guide with standard 1/4″ x 20tpi knobs that slide into the t-slots on the front and back of the aluminum extrusion

Adjustable Legs

The legs are easily adjusted to the height of your Band saw table by loosening the knob and raise the leg up or down to level the Super Wide Miter Guide to the Band saw table. The foot is also adjustable for leveling the legs.

Designed To Use Multiple Jigs

Any jig that uses a standard 3/4″ miter slot will work with the Super Wide Miter Guide making this a perfect jig for Band saw tables, router tables and tablesaws. In the image above is Carters Products Log Mill be demonstrated.

Note: Carter Log Mill Not Included

  • Standard 3/4″ x 3/8″ Miter Slot
  • Included with the package are 2 hold down clamps
  • The legs simply connect on to the Super Wide Miter Guide with standard 1/4″ x 20tpi knobs
  • Easily adjustable Legs
  • Designed To Use Multiple Jigs

Note: Bandsaw Not Included

California Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm. www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.

Super Wide Miter Guide ADD-ON Track

For Use with the Super Wide Miter Guide

Add even more length to your Super Wide Miter Guide for extra long stock. The 36″ ADD-ON Track easily attaches to the miter guide with two attachment brackets (included) that slide into your bottom track and is secured with multiple set screws. Now your ready to make cuts on the extra long workpieces without any concern of falling off the back end of your table. When the ADD-On Track is added to the Super Wide Miter Guide it gives you a combined length of 72″

  • For Use with the Super Wide Miter Guide
  • Easily attaches to the miter guide with two attachment brackets
  • Make cuts on the extra long workpieces without any concern of falling off the back end of your table

Note: Bandsaw Not Included

California Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm. www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.

Precision Band Saw Fence

Bolster your Band saw’s accuracy with a precision Band saw Fence from Kreg. This fence is adjustable in two dimensions, and sets parallel to the blade with ease. A precision lens cursor reads off the included scale and enhances cutting accuracy and repeatability for high production work. The fence mounts to most 14-inch Band saws, including Jet, Delta, General, Grizzly and many others.

  • Precision lens cursor for pinpoint accuracy
  • Incredibly strong and rigid for optimal durability and tighter work pieces
  • Easy to attach and remove for less downtime and more productivity
  • Adjustable in two dimensions for setting parallel with the blade
  • Fits most 14-inch Band saws for versatility

California Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm. www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.

4-1/2″ Resaw Guide Instructions

The Kreg Resaw Guide easily attaches to the Kreg Precision Band Saw Fence, allowing for a higher level of control and accuracy when adjusting for Band-saw blade drift. The curved face of the guide helps you steer the board into the cut and get the perfect results you’re looking for.

band, setup, tuning, guide
  • Durable anodized-aluminum
  • Actively compensates for blade drift
  • Attaches to Kreg Precision Band Saw Fence
  • Curved guide face helps steer board into cut
  • For small- and medium-sized work pieces
  • 4 1/2″ height for small and medium-size workpieces

California Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm. www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.

Micro Adjuster Instructions

Dial-in precise adjustments to your Kreg Precision Router Table or Precision Band Saw Fence – down to.005″ – with the simple turn of a thumb wheel.

  • Provides precise adjustments, down to.005″
  • Easy to adjust with the simple turn of a thumb wheel
  • For use with Kreg Precision Router Table and Precision Band Saw Fence
  • Anodized aluminum and brass construction

California Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm. www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.

band, setup, tuning, guide

Magfence II Universal Magnetic Fence

The MAGFENCE II Universal Magnetic Fence is the fastest, easiest way to add a moveable and adjustable fence to your bandsaw. Since the MAGFENCE II attaches to your saw with switchable magnets ( 155 lbs of break away force each), it is readily adjusted and infinitely positionable. See more product details

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Magfence II Universal Magnetic Fence

The MAGFENCE II Universal Magnetic Fence is the fastest, easiest way to add a moveable and adjustable fence to your bandsaw. Since the MAGFENCE II attaches to your saw with switchable magnets ( 155 lbs of break away force each), it is readily adjusted and infinitely positionable. You don’t even need any hardware or mounts when installing. Simply place in position and switch the magnets to the ON position and you are set. The fence has thin rubber strips on the bottom to make adjustments smooth and simple, they also keep the fence from scratching your table top surface. The unit also features multiple T-slots for attaching any number of accessories like a sub-fence, stops and is compatible with all of Carter’s original MAGFENCE accessories. The MAGFENCE II comes with two switchable magnets ( 155 lbs of break away force each) and measures 15″ in length by 3″ in height. Additional switchable magnets (sold separately) can be added to the fence for even more holding power

Features

  • Fastest, easiest way to add a moveable and adjustable fence to your bandsaw
  • Attaches to your saw with switchable magnets
  • Readily adjusted and infinitely positionable
  • No hardware or mounts needed when installing
  • Thin rubber strips on the bottom to make adjustments smooth and simple
  • Multiple T-slots for attaching any number of accessories
  • Compatible with all of Carter’s original MAGFENCE accessories
  • Fastest, easiest way to add a moveable and adjustable fence to your bandsaw
  • Attaches to your saw with switchable magnets
  • Readily adjusted and infinitely positionable
  • No hardware or mounts needed for installing
  • Thin rubber strips on the bottom to make adjustments smooth and simple
  • Multiple T-slots for attaching accessories
  • Compatible with all of Carter’s original MAGFENCE accessories

California Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm. www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.

5″ Sacrificial Fence for Magfence II

The 5″ SWF allows you to get the blade much closer to the fence without the fear of damaging your blade or your fence. This extended design gives you a taller face for resaw and larger wood operations. The face attaches easily at both ends via the existing slots in the MAGFENCE II face. The SWF is constructed out of ridgid non-warping plastic that will keep it’s shape, but will not damage the blade in case of accidental contact. Ideal for sawing super thin veneers or any application where the fence might come in contact with the tooling or blade.

Note:The SWF is designed to fit the Carter MAGFENCE II product only ( Not Included).

Note: 5″ SWF Sacrificial Fence Only Carter MAGFENCE II Not Included

California Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm. www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.

Band Saw setup/tuning guide

Hi, I have an old Jet 14″ Band saw that I haven’t used since I bought it last year. I’ve been kind of afraid to because while it looks like it’s in perfect operational condition the tires (rubber things that go around the top and bottom wheels that the blade rides on) are old and dried out. Also the blade adjustments seem off because the blade tends to want to work itself off of the wheels.

It’s silver colored which I didn’t know was ever a Jet color.

I’ve been trying to find any info or tutorials on setting up and tuning a Band saw but can’t seem to find anything. Does anyone know of any resources they could share?

Buckmark13

As my son likes to say, you can learn how to do anything on YouTube.

Watch this video and then let us know what other questions you have.

carlrez

Thank you! This video looks very helpful!

woodnthings

The Snodgrass video posted above recommends rubber tires which are OEM equipment. Get them here: https://www.ebay.com/i/152602062042. qe1MHlt65ihixvfAB2JeBoTT2tqlJ1eMaAlckEALw_wcB

Then remove the table and set back all the guides. Follow the Snodgrass instructions on how to adjust them, quite simple really. Track the new blade with the gullets on the center of the top tire. Disregard the bottom tire for tracking. Never saw a name brand silver bandsaw so far. :surprise2:

Wisdom comes with age and experience. So, I try to include the reasons I have come to a certain opinion or the “whys” it will or will not work, because otherwise, it’s just unfounded blather. I try not to be that person!

carlrez

That video was exactly what I was looking for. I guess the word “clinic” is good to use when searching for tutorials and how-to’s for tool setup. Hehe.

Now to set it up properly using what I learned.

It looks like there are a few homemade attempts at blade protection on it. I need to give those a good look to see if they would help or hurt the saw’s performance.

Any tips on knowing when a saw blade is too dull and should be replaced?

woodnthings

I don’t know what that means. :surprise2: The upper blade guard is the only protection you need other than the housing covers. Storing blades with a fine spray of oil won’t hurt to prevent rust in humid conditions.

A dull blade won’t cut straight and it requires extra feed pressure. Best to get a new blade and start out right. I use Timberwolf blades from Grizzly in the lengths for my saw. For cutting or resawing thicker wood get a 3 tooth per inch blade in 1/2″ or 3/4″ widths. For general cutting a 6 tooth per inch in 1/4″ up to 3/8″ wide is fine, The greater the width, the less you can turn it to make small radius cuts. Wider blades want to cut straight.

Wisdom comes with age and experience. So, I try to include the reasons I have come to a certain opinion or the “whys” it will or will not work, because otherwise, it’s just unfounded blather. I try not to be that person!

Tool Agnostic

Here are a few checks not mentioned yet. Do them with the bandsaw unplugged: Check that the thrust bearings behind the blade turn freely. If not, replace them. There is one above and one below the table. Make sure the wheels turn freely with no play. Check the pulleys and belt. @woodnthings is very knowledgeable. I would like to know why he recommends rubber tires.

woodnthings

None of my bandsaws has urethane tires on it. and if they need replacing I will stay with rubber. Alex Snodgrass says that urethane lasts longer, BUT they do not increase performance which I tend to believe. https://youtu.be/wGbZqWac0jU?t=183

The only experience I did have with urethane was on a used and refurbished 14″ Delta I owned briefly, but sold. I didn’t use it, only made a few test cuts, but it seemed OK. The tires seemed a bit softer than the rubber tires, but that’s all I know.

Wisdom comes with age and experience. So, I try to include the reasons I have come to a certain opinion or the “whys” it will or will not work, because otherwise, it’s just unfounded blather. I try not to be that person!

FrankC

The Snodgrass video posted above recommends rubber tires which are OEM equipment. Get them here: https://www.ebay.com/i/152602062042. qe1MHlt65ihixvfAB2JeBoTT2tqlJ1eMaAlckEALw_wcB

Then remove the table and set back all the guides. Follow the Snodgrass instructions on how to adjust them, quite simple really. Track the new blade with the gullets on the center of the top tire. Disregard the bottom tire for tracking. Never saw a name brand silver bandsaw so far. :surprise2:

I have watched the video several times and have never got the impression he recommends rubber tires, he does state there is no advantage replacing them expecting better results.

Sawdust Making 101 a guide for the beginning woodworker I don’t say no because I am so busy, I say no because I don’t want to be so busy.

DrRobert

OK here’s my biased opinion based on spending literally hours trying to remove drift from my bandaws: He has a very slick presentation, but it doesn’t work for all bandsaws. So you can frustrate yourself, or buy a PM saw just like the one he uses. The reason I say this, is that not all bandsaws have coplanar wheels, or crowned tires therefore adjusting the tracking to ride on the gullet on the crown is not applicable. Bottom line: not all bandsaws can be set up to remove drift ala Snodgrass.

If you go through a standard setup for your saw (I suggest you follow the manual) you should be ok. Back off all the guides and set the tracking first, then the thrust bearing, then the guide blocks. Careful to keep centered. Tension will affect tracking so once that’s set don’t change it. I suggest you ignore the scale and over tension the blade at least by 2X IOW for a 1/2″ blade tension to 3/4-1″.

FWIW, I have the 12″ version of your saw with identical guides. I’ve found it is not the easiest saw to keep aligned. Bearing guides are far superior to blocks, and I believe Carter probably has an upgrade for this saw. If not, check the blocks for wear and consider replacing with some better quality guide blocks.

You also need to check the alignment of the guide post. Be sure it is following the blade as it is moved up and down.

IMO adjusting the table to the drift is far superior than attempting the Snodgrass method. Set the fence parallel to the slot, then making several test cuts, loosening the table bolts and moving the table as needed. Michael Fortune has a good video on this.

I’ve never had an issue with urethane tires.

Bandsaw Tune-up

This article is from Issue 30 of Woodcraft Magazine.

The bandsaw may be the most versatile player in the woodshop. It can rip, resaw, crosscut, and execute all kinds of curved work, including cabriole legs, circles, arcs, and serpentine drawer fronts. Outfitted with an appropriate blade, it can chew through thick stock to rough-out parts, fine-saw joinery like tenons and dovetails, and even do detailed scrollwork. Finding this machine equally desirable for fine and rough work, I made room in my shop for two saws: a 30-year-old 14″ Rockwell, set up with a narrow blade for curve-cutting, and a newer 14″ Delta, outfitted with a wide blade and riser block, for resawing.

Despite its simple appearance, a bandsaw is a precision instrument. Whether you own a giant with 20″ diameter wheels or a 9″ benchtop, it requires periodic maintenance to cut as well as it should.

Here’s how to give your saw a thorough once-over to ensure that the parts are all in good operating order. I’ll show you how to fix common problems and quickly dance through the steps involved in changing blades.

The way it works

The bandsaw does its business by virtue of a thin hoop of toothed steel (the blade) fitted and tensioned around two tire-covered wheels. Typically, the motor drives the lower wheel via belts and pulleys. The upper wheel rises to adjust blade tension and tilts to establish blade tracking. The table, which supports workpieces being sawn, tilts on trunnions to allow bevel-cutting. Two sets of blade guides—above and below the table—prevent the blade from twisting and shifting in use. The height-adjustable guide post provides control directly above the workpiece.

A regular checkup

First things first: Give your saw a general checkup, inspecting the wheels, tires, guides, and other parts to ensure proper alignment and good working condition. It’s wise to do this annually.

Inspect the wheels and tires

For precise tracking and smooth performance, the wheels, bearings, and tires must be in good shape. Before scrutinizing each individually, check the tracking. To do this, tension a blade according to the saw’s tension gauge, then use the tracking knob to center the blade on the wheels while slowly rotating them by hand. Once centered, the blade should not wander. If the blade tracks like it should, you’re in for a cleaning and minor tune-up; if it doesn’t, plan on spending time dealing with worn tires or wheel bearings.

After the tracking test, remove the blade and listen for any bearing noise while slowly turning each wheel. Clicking or grinding noises usually indicate that you need to replace bearings. Next, inspect the tires for grooves, cracks, or other damage that can compromise tracking. If the tires need replacement, get a fresh set from the manufacturer or upgrade to urethane wheels (see photo, page 60) because they’re tougher and are installed without adhesive.

If the tires are sound, clean them with a synthetic abrasive pad. For good tracking, keep the wheels as clean as possible. Installing a brush in the lower wheel housing, as shown in Photo A, can help a lot.

Check guide post and guides

Clean a dirty post with steel wool and mineral spirits before oiling it. Also clean dirty or gummy bearings by wiping them off with mineral spirits (don’t soak them). Reverse or replace a scarred thrust bearing. It’s important that guide blocks (or roller bearings) are parallel to the sides of the blade.

Before checking this alignment, make sure the block faces are smooth and square. (For a shop-made guide block dresser, see page 16.) Slide them against the sides of a wide blade, as shown above, to ensure that they are parallel. If necessary, rotate the guide mount (Photo B) to correct the problem.

Comparing bandsaw blade guides

I use homemade blade guides for all my homemade bandsaws. But at this point, I also had three different commercially made blade guides, and I figured it would be interesting to compare them all, on the same bandsaw.

I made mounts for the commercial blade guides so I could try them all on my big bandsaw. I ended up making new guide posts for each upper blade guide for the experiment.

The first test was with my homemade blade guides. I cut some small circles both clockwise and counter clockwise, in some pine and some silver maple.

I’m using a 1/4″ (6 mm) wide blade, because, I find narrow blades are harder to guide than wider ones.

The homemade guides worked as they always do, I’m used to them, not much to say.

Next I installed the blade guides borrowed from my cast iron bandsaw. Here mounting the lower blade guide that goes below the table.

Making the same cuts, from the same piece of wood. Again, nothing unusual. Although, with the upper blade guide this small, and no blade guard in place, visibility was really good.

Next using some aftermarket blade guides, these ones from sawblade.com (some of these), though they look just like the ones from carterproducts.com. They are nice and shiny and feel solid, though getting the adjustment right with the rollers was kind of annoying, especially because none of my Allen keys fit the set screws quite right. I also wasn’t sure how tight to make them on the blade. I wanted the rollers to touch the blade, but not pinch it and spin constantly. This was very fiddly.

The guides performed nicely, making a nice whizzing sound, but using them was no different from using the other two guides that I tried.

Then trying some big blade guides that a reader from western Canada sent me. He upgraded the blade guides on his big bandsaw to ones from Carter.

These guides are kind of large and wouldn’t fit next to the trunnion support beam on my bandsaw. So I had to make a new temporary table support just to make room for them.

I opted not to make trunnions for this test. Instead I used the screws and knobs just as clamps to hold the table on. Not the most secure, but it was only for one experiment.

The guides were kind of annoying to adjust to be really close. The pads on the guides can rotate, but if they bind with the blade, they can push the blade forward as they turn. Once set up, they worked as well as the other three blade guides. These guides were designed to be used with much wider blades.

And here’s all the blade guides and samples that I cut with them.

Performance

In terms of cutting performance, there really wasn’t any noticeable difference between the various guides. They all guided the blade perfectly well, and I certainly couldn’t see a difference in cut quality. So I’ll FOCUS on other aspects.

Adjustability

In terms of adjustability, I expected my homemade blade guides to be worse than all the others, because with two screws per guide block, they are kind of annoying to have to adjust. (Earlier versions of my homemade blade guides use just one screw, but these new guides have to be able to handle wider blades, so I opted for a different design).

But I found the shiny fancy guides from sawblade.com also quite annoying to adjust. The bearings are adjusted by turning the eccentric mount they are on, then tightening the set screw to lock them. same approach for both sides and the thrust bearing on the back. I fiddled around with them quite a bit. With guide blocks, I just push them lightly against the blade and tighten them, then make sure the blade slides easily, but if I did that with the rollers, the rollers end up spinning all the time.

The big guides from Ted (right-most above) have nice knobs on either side, plus a locking ring. So large adjustments are quite nice. But getting the guides to just touch the blade and rub lightly was fiddly to get right, so also kind of annoying.

The cheap blade guides from my 14″ bandsaw were the easiest to adjust. The screws are on the front, loosen it, lightly push the blocks against the blade, and tighten again.

Size

Blade guides obstructing the work are annoying. In this regard, the big ones from Ted were the worst. My homemade blade guides were slightly bigger than the ones from sawblade.com. The smallest were the ones from my 14″ bandsaw, so that one is a winner there.

That said, the homemade blade guides, and the ones from Ted can take much wider blades than the ones from my 14″ bandsaw or the sawblade.com ones. The guides from Ted could also handle a 1 1/4″ wide sawmill blade.

Looks

The shiny guides from sawblade.com are by far the coolest looking. Next coolest, I think are my homemade guides, then the small ones from my 14″ bandsaw, and last the ones from Ted.

Looks matter because, with no actual difference in performance, how good a set of guides is is largely a psychological factor. So guides that look cooler are just perceived to be better, and as a result you may well end up doing better work. Not unlike how looks are important for musical instruments.

And the winner is.

To me, the old guides I got from Ted were the clear losers in this comparison. For using a 1/4″ blade, I liked the guides from my 14″ bandsaw the best, for being compact and easy to adjust. That said, I don’t think the lower guide is optimal. I think it would be much better to have the guide blocks above the thrust bearing instead of below to get them closer to the workpiece.

I have reservations about the fancy ball bearing guides. I When cutting soft wood, I could see some gunk starting to build up on the rollers, though the gunk came off on its own. The problem I see is, especially for the lower guides, as sawdust falls on them from the blade, they roll and press it onto the blade. Of course, I could leave a bit of space between the blade and the rollers to prevent that, but if there is a gap, then the guides aren’t effectively guiding the blade. When I initially used roller skate bearings as guides for my first first homemade bandsaw, they were quite noisy. But these are larger ball bearings, higher quality, and new, so I didn’t notice them making a lot of noise.

Overall, it makes me feel better about the blade guides on my old cast iron 14″ bandsaw, and the guides on my homemade bandsaws. The homemade guides work just as well, and, surprisingly, aren’t any more annoying to adjust than the fancy aftermarket blade guides or the big guides that Ted sent me.

I’d say, unless there is something really wrong with the blade guides on your bandsaw, don’t replace them. A properly adjusted set of blade guides will guide the blade perfectly well, and a fancy aftermarket guides don’t improve on that.

Woodworking 101: Bandsaw Tips from Workshop Experts

Whether you are entering woodworking 101 or a seasoned expert, it is important to know the tools in your shop and how to use them! There are some tools that would be impossible to work without, while others you find yourself standing in the aisle going back and forth over purchasing. Forest 2 Home considers a bandsaw as one of these indispensable tools. Bandsaws are incredibly versatile, producing uniform, straight cuts and irregular, curved shapes. How much do you know about this incredible woodshop machine?

History of bandsaws

The bandsaw had an early start in the world of woodworking, introduced to the world by English inventor, William Newberry in 1808. Newberry’s patent for the new machine read: “a machine for sawing wood, in which an endless Band or ribbon saw, strung over two wheels, was used.” At the time, whether it be due to inaccessibility to sufficient blades or the quality of the saws themselves, the bandsaw did not pick up the traction Newberry had anticipated. While he is recognized as the inventor of one of the most valuable woodworking machines, his hopes for his invention did not come to light in his time.

50 years after its invention, Henry Wilson, another English inventor, patented improvements to the mounting of the bandsaw. Wilson’s enhancements for the bandsaw sought to prevent the breaking and snapping of the blades from sudden strain. Over the years, the bandsaw went through many iterations before becoming what it is today. With improvements made from many inventors across the seas, through many decades, and with the aid of technological improvements, the modern bandsaw now thrives in workshops around the world.

Types of bandsaws

Bandsaws come in many shapes and sizes, all offering multifaceted properties, though some may be better for your woodshop than others. Professional and hobbyist woodworkers each appreciate the bandsaws ability to make stable cuts with minimal waste. Listed are a variety of bandsaws and their properties to help you make the decision on which is the best fit for your woodshop:

  • Vertical Bandsaw: the most common of bandsaws and with the most similarities to the original bandsaw invention, this upright saw features a blade that runs from the top down. They are the most versatile of bandsaws, with the ability to produce straight lines with unmatched accuracy and create intricate cuts and create curves. The vertical bandsaw is otherwise known as the tabletop bandsaw, though sizes can differ.
  • Horizontal Bandsaw: horizontal bandsaws rival the vertical bandsaw as the most common saw in the woodshop. These saws are equipped with many options for productivity and can produce an accurate, precise cut though they are not sufficient for intricate cuts and creating curves. The horizontal bandsaw is otherwise known as the general-purpose pivot style horizontal saw.
  • Portable Bandsaw: the portable bandsaw is popular option for the increased mobility it lends to woodworkers with its lightweight carrying ability. Portable bandsaws have the capacity to cut through edges, create curves and intricate, irregular cuts. It can change directionality quickly, allowing makers to go from cutting straight lines to curved ones instantaneously.

Setting up your bandsaw

Proper set up and routine tuning of your bandsaw is an important part of the process-it sets you up for success as you move through projects in the workshop. Here are steps outlining optimal bandsaw set up:

  • Disengage all guides.
  • Align the blade so the deepest part of the gullet (the gullet is the deeper area between two sharp points on the blade) is right in the center of the wheel. Doing this allows for tension and rigidity to be at the front of the blade, not the center of the blade. If your bandsaw is set up this way, all the side guides must do is prevent the back edge from fishtailing, which is far easier than forcing the front edge where you want it to go.
  • Use the internal tracking adjustment so that everything lines up and the blade is snug but not fully tensioned.
  • Do not worry about the bottom wheel, as long as the whole blade is on the wheel.
  • Check for proper tension: open the door to see the innerworkings of your bandsaw, lay your finger on top of the guard and push on the blade. There is no resistance on the left side and when you lay your finger on top of the guard and push, you are getting a consistent feel. When pushing in, you want to see about a ¼ inch deflection on the blade without seeing your finger turn white or feel numb.
  • After you check the tension, recheck the wheel to ensure the deepest part of the gullet is centered on the wheel. If you tighten the blade, it will cause the blade to move backwards and if you loosen it, the blade will be brought forwards.
  • Following internal blade adjustment, it is important to adjust the front and back side guides. Adjust the guide so that they are just behind the deepest part of the gullet. Be sure to make these adjustments to the front and back side guides at the top and bottom of your saw.
  • Adjust the thrust bearing to be as close as it can be to the blade without it touching when the blade rotates. You never want the thrust to rotate against a blade in motion, as it will cause problems when working and can cause damage to your bandsaw and blades overtime. If it is too far forward, it will move the blade and cause it to shift. Make sure your thrust adjustment is the most accurate of all the adjustments you make during bandsaw set up and tuning.
  • Following thrust bearing adjustment, move into side-to-side side guide adjustment. Make sure they are close to the blade without touching it. Repeat adjustments on the top and bottom of your bandsaw.
  • Following adjustments, you must square the table to the blade to make sure all cuts are made on a level surface.
  • Once your table surface is level, you must set the fence parallel to the blade. This can be done by taking a straight edge-such as a ruler-laying it flat on the table and aligning it with the body of the blade in between the blade teeth. This can also be down with a fence alignment system tool (F.A.S.T.) that has a groove for the offset of the teeth and a magnet for the body of the blade.
  • Make a test cut to check accuracy.

Cutting curves with a bandsaw

Though it may be an initial challenge to learn how to cut curves with a bandsaw, it will be come fairly easy with some practice and a properly tuned-up bandsaw! There are some helpful tips when you want to cut curves with a bandsaw, including:

  • Planning your cuts directly on your material: whether you want to transfer your design directly onto the wood with pencil or use a vinyl sticker to lay out the design that you can peel away later, it is a good idea to plan your cuts in advance.
  • Make cuts in manageable sized lumber: like any project, working with large boards can make maneuvering the material challenging. When you are planning to make curved cuts with a bandsaw, be sure to break the lumber down into smaller sizes.
  • Get detailed: for tight curves, making relief cuts is a helpful option that will also prevent the blade from binding. To make a relief cut, all you have to do is make a straight cut in various sections, starting from the exterior of the board and stopping along the edge of the curved line that you want to make. Once these cuts are made, you can cut along the curved line. Maneuverability will increase as the sections you previously chopped are removed.
  • Cut along the outside of your line: kerf is the width of the material removed in the cutting process and by cutting just outside your line, you allow for greater material preservation and size accuracy.
  • Cut forward: as you are cutting curved lines on a bandsaw, be sure to never turn your material. Always push the wood forward, even if it means turning the bandsaw off, backing out your material and restarting the cut.

Bandsaw safety

As with any tool used in the woodshop, it is important to practice diligent bandsaw safety. By consistently implementing safety practices into your woodworking, it will guarantee a positive experience and lessen the risk of injury. When working with a bandsaw, you should follow these precautions:

  • Wear safety glasses, goggles or a face shield
  • Tie hair back, remove jewelry and wear fitting clothes to avoid getting anything caught by the blade.
  • Ensure proper bandsaw set up was done, including all guard adjustments, wheel enclosure, blade position and overall condition.
  • Keep hands away from the line of cut and braced against the table.
  • Use a push stick when you remove cut pieces between the fence and saw blade or when your hands are close to the blade.
  • If you need to stop cutting, hold the material firmly and turn off the saw.
  • Never leave the saw running while unattended.

By keeping these tips in mind, as well as other wood shop safety precautions (proper lighting, appropriate PPE, etc.), the bandsaw can remain a productive and positive tool in the woodshop.

Bandsaw tips

When we asked some of the Forest 2 Home woodworking experts their top bandsaw tips, they came back to us with some great items to keep in mind! Here is what they had to say:

“The most important thing I like to remember is to be patient with whatever you’re cutting. As long as you have everything set up exactly how it should be, the machine will do the work for you!” – Markis, @thereformationwoodshop on Instagram

“The big tip I have is to use the proper blade for the proper job. Take time out to change the blade. And relief cuts. ”.Benny, @jettywoodworks on Instagram

band, setup, tuning, guide

“Basics are important: good blade, right blade for the job, setting the blade height correctly, blade tension.”.Mark

”A lot of bandsaw problems come from having a dull blade. When putting the blade on the tension, you want to have the gullet of the blade centered with the tire. Set the height of your guide just above the work piece, not too far up. Let the blade do the work, don’t push too hard, especially when trying to follow close to the line of a template. If cutting a round piece like dowels, the blade wants to pull it down and in so be extra careful and use a jig!”.Jon, @txyankeecarpentry on Instagram

“Tip #1: Don’t cut off your fingers! Tip #2: Make sure your surface is clean of debris: dirty and sticky surfaces might lead to a slip and may cause injury. Tip #3: Always work with a sharp blade: dull blades will make you want to push harder on the piece and you might not have good control on your cut. You will also probably experience a blade drift, or worse, cut your fingers (remember tip #1)!”.Pat, @patlapofficial on Instagram

“My main tip would be to definitely be a little maintenance to your bandsaw. I sand the table with 320 grit and keep it waxed up with Johnson paste wax. Helps to keep my material moving smoothly so I get a nice cut.”.Annalee, @annieswoodworks on Instagram

Keep these tips in mind as you begin or continue to work with a bandsaw! Find more tips from woodworking experts on our blog or on social media by visiting Instagram and following @shopf2h. Have any other bandsaw tips? Leave a comment or send them to marketing@forest2home.com! Happy Woodworking!