Belly Mower vs. Finish Mower (PTO). Kubota tractor finish mower
Belly Mower vs. Finish Mower (PTO)
Question for the opinionated. I like having input from others. I am close to pulling the trigger on a 2032R. I am on the fence with the type of mower to get. The belly mower or the PTO finish. What are your thoughts. I’m not cutting golf course type grass, but I do not need the rough cut of a brush hog. I am thinking about maneuverability, getting under trees, around the pond, cutting trails, etc. Also want to consider ease of getting on and off the tractor.
I bet someone much smarter then me has some thoughts for me to consider.
Kennyd
Wide open areas, RFM’s are great. around obstacles and smaller spaces MMM’s are great.
Which do you have? How much area do you have to mow? Have hills?
Kenny Bolt on Grab Hooks and other cool stuff are now for sale! My Equipment: John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab, 300cx FEL, 366 Front Blade, 59″ Front Snowblower, Ballast Box, Artillian 3K Forks, Grapple, Front-Hoe Bucket, WoodMaxx MX-9900 Chipper John Deere 455 w/60″ MMM
JimR
Yep. IMO, Kennyd is right on point. The MMM is going to be easier to use around any sort of obstacle. UNDER tress can go either way. AROUND trees the MMM is easier. For around your pond the MMM could be a problem. A RFM with an offset or a sickle bar mower are better bets there.
D160 Mower/Bagger. 2014 2032R tractor/H130 FEL w/Bolt-On Hooks/54″ Snow Plow/iMatch Quick-Hitch/County Line 5′ Scraper blade/County Line Carry-All/Artillian 42″ Forks QH Adapter/JD Ballast Box/Frontier SB1164 3PH Blower/Leinbach PHD/Wallenstien BX42 Chipper
tomd999
I have had a 2520 with a 60″ RFM and a 430 with a 60HD MMM. I liked the 2520 with the RFM better all around, I liked having the mower hanging off the back as the dust and chafe stayed away from me and the tractor. Also, I have several nooks that I could back all the way into with the RFM that the 430 would leave about 2 feet uncut at the end. Another factor is the ease of on and off of the RFM, especially with an I-Match.
2010 3320 Cab Loaded R3’s, 300CX w/3rd SCV 61″ HD-Tooth Bar, 72″ HD-bolt-on edge, Frontier Forx “A” front hitch, Mid-PTO, Air ride seat, Horn, Back-up alarm, Rear work lights, External mirrors, Auto cruise 60HD broom. 366 Blade, 59 blower, i-Match Looking for: Rear Wheel Weight Set
Stuff for Sale: New 200CX/H130 Masts 25/2720-2032R New Jamison Bryce adapter, cart and chute
“Suppose you were an idiot, and suppose you were a member of Congress; but I repeat myself” Mark Twain
Gizmo2
Had a RFM for years. The only issue I had with mowing, and a big one IMO, is the turning with the mower swinging waaaay out of the actual turn. Mowed great.
JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61″ bucket. 46 BH/16″ bucket, Artillian Forks, 72″ Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD, BX42 Chipper, XUV 560 Gator, Z915B ZTrak
#76 kubota L2501 with landpride 72″ finish mower battles Cub Cadet commercial 54″ zero turn
mikeb
I have a 2032R with the 62D MMM. I can’t really complain much about the cut and mower in general. I think if I had to do it again I would probably go with the RFM. I have only a few trees, a jungle gym, and garden as obstacles in the about 3 or so acres I cut on my property, most is just drive straight. I also have 1 acre or so I only cut once or twice a year. I think the RFM would make some areas easier to cut being able to reverse and it would probably be faster to attach/detach.
etcallhome
If you haven’t used either. I’m guessing the mmm would be first choice. I’ve used my FIL mmm for close to 30yrs before buying my first JD with mmm. When I bought the 2210 bought it with RFM liked it for everything except getting close to fences or my front porch. My dealer called me the 2nd evening knowing I was going to mow the same day. Asked how I liked. said it will take time and he said clean it up I’ll picked it up tomorrow and put on the mmm. Been happy every since with a mmm.
I can see where mowing back under a tree or down a bank would be easier with RFM. After seeing the mower down in front of you while mowing it was different turning around to see what the mower was hitting.
Have fun and be safe. :usa USAR 8yr 8 mo SSG :usa 99th ARCOM JD 1025R, H120 FEL 54″ bucket, 54″ mmm Auto Conn, 54″ Front blade, JD back hoe ,JD IMatch, 48″ Bush Hog tiller, Middlebuster from MF dealer, used King Kutter 5′ rear blade, a new 47″ JD Front blower and Original Tractor cab w/heater. We have a Red Honda Pioneer 700-4 (4 seater) w/soft top. doors, and winch.
Evergreen
I liked having the mower hanging off the back as the dust and chafe stayed away from me and the tractor.
I second this completely! I use my “little” Sears rider (obviously w/a mid-mount) to mow along flowerbeds and around trees, but everything else gets done with the M and an old Woods 3-pt finishing mower. What I like about my setup is the rear mower and the high operator station keep me out of the dust storm. As a general rule, I prefer rear mounted or drawbar implements just for that reason. I also find them easier to take on and off. I have a rear blade for the Sears and I hate trying to use it while the mower deck is attached.
Rear decks are also easier to maintain: I lift it up, toss a jack stand under it, and crawl underneath.
’50 Model M w/electronic ignition, 12v conversion, and a 3pt conversion plus a homemade snowplow, a Deere Model 51 trailer plow, a Woods RM59 finish mower, a Bark Buster splitter, and a few other toys. ’69 Sears Suburban 14 48″ deck and 42″ back blade, an estate rake, and a sweeper. ’07 F250 XL Powerstroke, crew cab, short box, 4×4. ’85 F150. I finally sold my very first truck after racking up over half-a-million miles on the original drivetrain.
coaltrain
I had both for a while. the 62D belly mower and the 272 72″ rear finish mower. Both have their advantages and disadvantages depending on the area you are using it on. I sold the 272 to put the money toward something else back then but wish I had kept it. When I was mowing commercially I had uses for both. But now on my own property the belly mower works out better. ~3 acres mixed open lawn and 1/2 with trees.
Pluses for the belly mower. as mentioned above maneuverability is a huge difference.
Pluses for the rear mower. easier installation and removal. for me anyway even though I have the nice drive over belly deck. Keeping the dust/chaff behind you as also mentioned above. with the addition for me the rear mower is so much more quiet than the belly mower. This is something that never used to bother me but much more sensitive to it now even wearing hearing protection (with tunes).
And build quality. the Deere belly mowers for the compact diesels are very good. The rear finish mowers are available from a lot of different manufacturers. I had the Deere 272 which was fantastic. great build quality, air flow, and cut. Some of the generic models don’t look like they would work as well.
Finish Mower vs Bush Hog: 7 Differences You Need to Know
Mowers come in various shapes, sizes, and styles. With so many of them on the market, you might need clarification about choosing the right one. A Finish mower and a Bush hog are excellent choices for mowing lawns. But each of them is made to suit the needs of specific properties.
If you need clarification on the differences between the two machines, this Finish mower vs. Bush hog comparison will help you understand their functions and features. Also, we will dive deeper into their differences. So, read on to understand more about these mowers.
The main differences between a Finish Mower and a Bush Hog are their blade designs, cutting abilities, attachment options, accessories, power needs, cutting results, and cost. Both machines can cut grass, but they can cut different types of grass. A Finish mower cuts short grass, while a Bush Hog cuts thick and long weeds.
What is a Finish Mower?
A finish mower is commonly known as a grooming mower. As its common name suggests, it is made for grooming residential and commercial lawns It is also widely used for trimming sports fields, parks, and schoolyards.
This mower has suitable blades for cutting the grass sharply and evenly. The design of a finished mower has a flat and big cutting deck. This feature enables the machine to cover larger spaces.
The large space coverage comes from the deck’s width and rotating horizontal shafts. Also, the sharp blades spin and swing freely. A top hook can be found on any finish mower on the market.
This hook’s function is to facilitate attaching the mower to a tractor, a compact utility tractor, or an all-terrain vehicle. The models of finish mowers usually vary based on their specifications, the number of wheels, and deck width.
What is a Bush Hog?
A bush hog has several common names. A brush hog, brush cutter, or rotary cutter are other names for it. A Bush hog is not a name for the machine but a brand name. This brand has been known best for its brush hogs or rotary cutters. So, the machines borrowed the brand name and became famous with it.
Bush hogs are made to cut thick grass. This bush hog does not ultimately depend on sharp blades. They require dull blades to whack denser, more stubborn grass and young trees.
Bush hogs will not be an ideal option for manicured lawns. They are the best treatment for dense and tall weeds. This is why the blades used on these hogs are thick. Generally, a bush hog has blades that swing simultaneously on a plate.
It would help if you did not rely on a bush hog to get an equal cut. It is not designed for manicures or landscaping. It can efficiently take on the types of wood and grass that a finish mower can’t.
A bush hog is an ideal trimming machine for grassy areas that have been neglected for a long time. Any lawn with grass taller than 15 cm is what you should use.
What are the Differences between a Finish Mower and a Bush Hog?
A Finish mower and a Bush hog might appear similar at first glance. However, they are distinct implements in how they function and are maintained.
T hey have different designs, accessories, and purposes. You can’t use both machines to substitute for each other. Simply put, a bush hog can make room for a Finish mower to complete the job.
1. Blades design
In terms of blade count, a finish mower has more blades. Finish mowers have three cutting blades, whereas a bush hog has only two. The blades of a finish mower are usually sharper and thinner to handle short grass efficiently.
Bush hog blades typically operate at a slower speed to whack thick weed. Typically, they can only go slowly, as they need some time to get through the dense grass.
2. Cutting abilities
A finish mower can only be used to cut grass. It can’t cut wood or young trees. On the other hand, a bush hog is designed to cut wood and grass simultaneously. It is meant to handle tall g rass that is longer than 5 inches.
3. Attachment options
Both machines can be attached to the back of a tractor. However, a bush hog can be found in walk-behind models. This is not an option with finish mowers. They are only available as attachable implements.
4. Accessories
Both machines come with vital accessories. But the type of these accessories is a major element in this finish mower vs. bush hog comparison. One of the most apparent differences in accessories is the presence of a discharge bag.
The purpose of this bag is to contain the cut grass instead of leaving it behind. All finish mowers have this bag. On the other hand, the majority of bush hogs do not have this discharge option. The cut materials are left behind on the ground.
5. Power needs
A Bush hog is more powerful than a finish mower. A bush hog requires more horsepower than a Finish mower. The high power needs result from the type of material it is cutting.
Typically, a machine will need more power to cut tree stumps. whereas cutting grass won’t require lower power levels.
6. Cutting results
A finish mower is absolutely reliable for landscaping and aesthetic trimming. The blades of a finish mower are designed to cut evenly in a way that encourages grass regrowth.
On the other hand, a bush hog cuts to remove tall weeds and saplings. The aesthetic and regrowth opportunities are not within the bush hog’s specialties.
7. Cost
When it comes to the of both machines, there is a vast difference. Finish mowers are no longer a top-selling item due to the widespread use of zero-turn mowers These innovative mowers are now mainstream in the landscaping business.
As a result, there are reasonably priced used finish mowers for sale. This means that a used finish mower will cost much less than a new bush hog.
Finish Mower vs Bush Hog: Are they the same?
No, a Finish mower and a Bush hog are not the same. They are both used for cutting grass, but the nature of the grass itself is not the same. A finish mower can be used to cut and groom a well-kept landscape. You can’t use a bush hog for the same purpose. This is due to the difference in their blades.
A bush hog has two slightly dull blades, whereas a finish mower has three sharp blades. The former comes with thick ones that operate slower than the thin and Rapid ones of a finish mower.
#45 Kubota B2601 Compact Tractor FDR1660 Finish Mower Review. outdoor channel.
A finish mower is the right candidate for adding a touch of beauty to a lawn, as it cuts the grass equally. It has mulching accessories that motivate new growth.
On the other hand, a bush hog is not used to manicure a lawn. It is used to cut tall weeds along with small trunks. It can also operate perfectly on a field with scattered rocks or gravel. A rocky field is not a safe area for a finishing mower.
Operating a bush hog requires more energy, particularly an engine with high horsepower. Finally, a finish mower is considerably less expensive than a heavy-duty bush hog.
Depending on the nature of your lawn, you can choose between a Finish mower and a Bush hog. Also, you might require both implements. For instance, you can use a bush hog to make a lawn ready for a more professional trim using a finish mower.
Grooming Mower vs. Rotary Cutter: Which is Best for You?
When you purchase a compact utility tractor for property maintenance, it often leads to the purchase of a mowing or cutting attachment. While a mid-mower deck is perfect for smaller properties that require management similar to a riding lawn mower; sizeable or diverse landscapes may need something a bit larger and more versatile. This leaves you with two options, a Grooming Mower or a Rotary Cutter. Depending on your property type, the length of the grass, and other projects you hope to manage, you may end up needing one over the other. Or possibly even both.
Grooming Mower
A grooming mower (or finish mower) is designed to maintain turfgrass environments like lawns, athletic fields, golf courses or any other area with grass under eight inches in length. It has sharp blades that give tender turf grass a sharp cut and can range from 4 to 9 ft. in length. Currently, Papé Machinery carries fifteen different John Deere Frontier Equipment grooming mower models, varying in both working width and PTO HP (horsepower). They are all compatible with the John Deere 1-4 series compact utility tractors through the use of an iMatch 3-point hitch.
The grooming mower is designed to be a simple and consistent piece of machinery, that allows for clean lawn maintenance over a larger area. If utilized with an iMatch Quick Hitch, connecting the implement is as simple as connecting with the top hook, shutting down the tractor and locking down the two side levers. Then you simply connect the PTO input shaft from the mower to the tractor’s output shaft, allowing the tractor to power the implement. Once it’s fully attached, you’ll want to adjust the pitch of the mower from front to back using the top link adjustment on your tractor’s 3-point hitch. The front of the mower should be slightly lower than the rear to prevent grass cuttings from bunching up under the mower deck.
Finally, you can adjust the cutting height by adding or removing spacers on the caster wheel shafts. Inspecting the turf area ahead of hookup can assist in expediting this process and assuring the cutting length is exactly where you need it. Depending on the set height and with the rear discharge from the mower deck, the implement can also be used for mulching purposes when needed.
Rotary Cutter
A rotary cutter (or bush hog) is designed to cut rough plant material, from thick pasture grass to tree saplings with trunks up to 1-inch (2.5 cm) thick. It offers an adjustable cutting height from 1½ to inches (4 – 23 cm). The material that is cut is left on the ground behind the cutter, and because it was pretty tall and rough to start with, it remains thick and rough-looking on the ground. Like the Grooming Mower, there are a large variety of options available that vary in both working width and PTO HP. Certain models are even designed with thicker steel and heavier drive components for specific work and landscape types.
Rotary cutters aren’t meant for refined maintenance, but instead, helps you take on terrain that’s covered in brush, weeds or tall grass that’s much rougher than it should be. The implement is ideal for controlling overgrowth and keeping the edges of your property clean and managed. When determining the right size cutter for your use case, it’s good to keep in mind the PTO HP of your tractor and the width between the outside edges of the rear tires. Ideally, you’ll want a rotary cutter with a working width at least as wide as the distance between the outside edge of the tires. This can help prevent any damage from driving over the material that the cutter isn’t reaching during a pass.
Typically the rotary cutter will require more care. Including having your local dealer regularly balance and sharpen the cutting blades to maintain the quality of the cut. It’s important to keep in mind that while the rotary cutter is a heavy-duty implement, it can still be damaged if the debris, brush or landscape is too rugged for the implements purpose. Mowing over a tree stump, large rocks, or letting the tractor wheel drive into a hole are just a few of the ways that you could damage the cutter if you’re unaware of the terrain. You’ll also want to check the radiator screen before cutting thicker vegetation to make sure it’s not clogged to avoid the engine overheating.
Grooming Mower Vs. Rotary Cutter
As can be seen, the two mower option provide vastly different experiences that must be taken into account before purchasing. If you’re planning on cutting grass regularly and want to maintain a pristine groomed surface, the grooming mower would be the right choice. If you need to take on anything in your path, including thicker brush and small tree trunks (up to one inch in diameter), the rotary cutter will help you do that.
Depending on your land, you may find you need both attachments to keep your property maintained. If you find yourself consistently switching between the two implements, investing in an iMatch Quick-Hitch can help minimize the downtime and simplify the entire process. Additionally, the Quick-Hitch is compatible with a vast array of John Deere and Frontier Equipment rear implements. Meaning that if you choose to expand to additional attachments, there’s a good chance it will work with the hitch.
Still, have questions regarding which mower is right for you and your property? Check out our recent Toolkit video below where we explain and showcase the differences between the two mowers in action. As always, you can give us a call or stop into your nearest Papé Machinery Agriculture Turf location to speak with our equipment experts about your specific requirements and use cases.