Disassembly Of The Makita 2450 Rotary Hammer

How to repair the hammer mechanism of the Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer

Even very reliable Makita rock drills break down over time. Any breakage is eliminated, you just need to have straight arms and perseverance. In addition to electrical malfunctions, perforators are also subject to mechanical damage. Operation of rock drills with hard materials in dusty environments will shorten the service life and require user intervention to perform preventive maintenance.

Mechanical malfunctions of the Makita 2450 and Makita 2470 rotary hammers

Common mechanical failures of Makita rock drills include:

• Destruction of the quick-release chuck;
• Failure of bearings;
• Breakdown of the striking mechanism;
• Punch barrel wear;
• Wear of striker and striker rubber bands;
• Breakage of gears.

The hammer drill chuck is repaired to replace the boot and rubber ring, as well as a conical spring and a steel ball that clamp the working tool (drill). This is indicated by what is a working tool? Namely, the drill does not hold well in the chuck.

The main reason is the wear of the steel ball 7.0 pos. 20, art. 216022-2. Ball wear occurs from contamination of the bore of the cartridge due to the ingress of dust and dirt.

General view and device of the Makita hammer drill chuck is shown in the photo below.

Do-it-yourself repair of the makita 2450 hammer drill cartridge is easy. The cartridge must be disassembled, freed from old grease, discarded rubber parts, replaced defective.

complex malfunctions require knowledge of the mechanical part of the Makita 2450 rotary hammer.

Having determined the nature of the malfunction of the Makita hammer drill, proceed to disassemble the mechanical part, called the gearbox.

Disassemble the mechanical part according to the enclosed. Free it from old grease. Carefully inspect all parts, their integrity, level of wear. All rubber products require replacement during any disassembly.

Consider repairing the barrel of a rock drill. Let’s analyze the mechanism completely. Disassembly, lubrication and assembly of the Makita rotary hammer

Repair of the mechanical part of the punch Makita 2450 and 2470

Any tool repair begins with determining the nature of the malfunction and disassembly.

The Makita 2450 and 2470 hammer drill can be repaired by a user who has initial locksmith skills and is familiar with electrical safety requirements.

This article discusses the mechanical part of the Makita rotary hammer, the main malfunctions and how to eliminate them. Dismantling the mechanical part of the Makita 2470 rotary hammer

To get to the mechanical part of the punch, you need to remove or disassemble the cartridge.

Disassembling the quick-release chuck Place the punch on the rear case cover on a tabletop covered with a clean cloth or paper. Using tweezers or a screwdriver, remove the rubber tip 35, item 1.

Carefully loosen the annular spring, pos. 2, the coupling cover, pos. 3, and the steel ring, pos. 4. You will reach a steel ball with a diameter of 7 mm pos. 20.

Now you can remove the housing of the mechanical part. It is black. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the four screws at the end of the housing. With your right hand grasping the black housing, press your thumb against the end of the shaft from which the chuck was disassembled. Plastic housing can be easily removed.

Next, you need to remove the gearbox shaft.

To disconnect the mechanical part from the electrical one, you must first remove the electric brushes. Remember! In the lower part of the housing, the rotor is held by electric brushes, which must be removed.

After checking that the electric brushes are disconnected from the rotor blades, use a screwdriver to pry the metal case of the puncher on the border of the green plastic case.

Now we turn to disconnecting the rotor from the mechanical part of the rock drill. The rotor is held mechanically by the helical gears of the reducer. If you take the rotor housing in one hand and the mechanical housing in the other and pull in different directions, swinging, you will separate these two units.

You will get such a knot in the old grease. Then unscrew with the hexagon two bolts M4 × 12, pos. 43., art. 266273-7 with an internal hex head. Pull out the shaft with the intermediate spur gear 10 pos.80, art.226399-7. From the inner case, pos. 49, art. 153687-8. Remove old grease from parts.

You will get such a mountain of clean parts. Now carefully look through the parts, discard the rubber rings immediately after picking up new ones. Replace defective parts with new ones.

Repair of parts of the barrel of the Makita 2450 hammer drill

Remember! In the lower part of the housing, the rotor is held by electric brushes, which must be removed.

The next step is to disconnect the rotor from the removed mechanism. The rotor is simply disconnected from the mechanism by pulling it out, since it is held by the friction of two helical gears.

The result is such a dirty knot.

Now you need to separate the percussion shaft.

Most often, the rubber rings wear out, the firing pin pos. 24, compressor spring pos. 18. And the parts of the cylinder. Here is how the parts of the barrel are worn out and destroyed if the tool is used incorrectly.

Consider the most difficult malfunction. the failure of the percussion mechanism. The characteristic signs of a breakdown of the percussion mechanism are the absence of a blow and the unpleasant noise of a working punch in the "Hit" mode.

Such a malfunction is typical for those rotary hammers that, during operation, were strongly pressed against the surface to be treated. Having disassembled the gearbox, we remove debris and pieces of foreign objects. We find the faulty part and clean everything from old grease.

The striker, pos. 24, art. 324396-8, which is part of the barrel. Metal ring pos. 27. Art. 324216-6. Discard damaged parts, replace with new ones, coat with a thin layer of grease. The parts are ready for assembly. But more on that in the next article.

Dismantling the Makita HR 2450 rotary hammer

Using tweezers or a screwdriver, remove the rubber tip 35, item 1.

Carefully release the annular spring (pos. 4), the coupling cover (pos. 3), the iron ring (pos. 4). You will reach an iron ball with a diameter of 7 mm pos. 20.

Now you can remove the housing of the mechanical part. It is dark in color. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the four self-tapping screws at the end of the case.

Clutching the dark case with your right hand, press with a huge finger on the end of the shaft from which the cartridge was disassembled. The plastic case can be easily removed.

Next, you need to remove the gearbox shaft.

To disconnect the mechanical part from the electronic one, you need to pull out the electric brushes earlier. Remember! At the bottom of the housing, the rotor is held by electronic brushes, which must be pulled out without fail.

After checking that the electric brushes are disconnected from the rotor blades, use a screwdriver to pry the iron housing of the hammer drill at the border of the greenish plastic housing.

Now we run over to disconnecting the rotor from the mechanical part of the perforated

Ra. The rotor is kept in the mechanical part due to the use of helical gears of the reducer. If you take the rotor housing in one hand, the mechanical housing in the other and pull in different directions, swinging, you will separate these two units.

It will turn out to be such a unit in an old grease.

Then, if there is a hexagon, unscrew two bolts M4 × 12, pos. 43., art.266273-7 with an internal hexagon head. Remove the shaft with the idler spur gear 10 pos. 80, art. 226399-7. From the inner case, pos. 49, art. 153687-8.

Clean the parts from old grease.

You will get such a mountain of spotless details.

And now painstakingly look through the details, discard the rubber rings outright, picking up new ones. Replace defective parts with new ones.

Common mechanical failures of Makita rock drills include:

• Destruction of the quick-release chuck;
• Breakage of bearings;
• Breakdown of the striking mechanism;
• Punch barrel wear;
• Wear of striker and striker rubber bands;
• Breakage of gears.

Repair of the drill chuck is done to change the boot and rubber ring, in addition to a conical spring and an iron ball, which secures the working tool (drill). This question shows what is a working tool? Speaking specifically, the drill does not hold well in the chuck.

The main reason is the wear of the iron ball 7.0 pos. 20, art. 216022-2. Ball wear occurs from contamination of the bore of the cartridge due to ingress of dust and dirt.

The type and structure of the Makita hammer drill chuck is shown in the photo below.

It is not difficult to repair the chuck of the makita 2450 perforator at home. The cartridge must be disassembled, freed from old grease, discarded rubber parts, replaced defective.

Instructions for disassembling the knob of the mode switch of the Makita 2450 hammer drill

Mode Knob Setting Procedure

To install the mode switch into the housing, you need to perform some actions: insert the switch into the “drilling” position into the seat until it clicks; move the switch counterclockwise to the "impact" position; move the switch with a click counterclockwise to the "drilling" position; insert the spring and the red button; insert the overlay from above until it engages. Mode switch assembled.

At the second stage, you should disassemble the quick-release chuck and repair the drill chuck with your own hands. By the way, the cartridge requires disassembly only for the Makita 2470 models. The device of the cartridge is quite simple, and any person who has a little bit of locksmith skills can handle its repair.

Even very reliable Makita rock drills break down over time. No matter what kind of breakdown is eliminated, you just need to have straight arms and assertiveness. Apart from electronic defects, rotary hammers are also susceptible to mechanical damage.

The work of rock drills with hard materials in a dusty environment reduces the service life and asks for user intervention during repairs.

Any tool repair begins with determining the nature of the malfunction and disassembly.

A user who owns the original locksmith skills and is familiar with the electrical safety requirements can repair the Makita 2450 and 2470 hammer drill.

The mechanical part of the Makita rotary hammer is considered here, the main malfunctions and methods of their elimination.

Dismantling the mechanical part of the Makita 2470 rotary hammer

To get to the mechanical part of the punch, you need to remove or disassemble the cartridge.

Disassembling the quick-release chuck Place the punch on the rear case cover on a table surface covered with a clean cloth or paper.

How to disassemble the Makita hr2450 hammer reducer

06/29/2016 07:02 2016-06-29T04: 02: 38.000Z

complex malfunctions require knowledge of the mechanical part of the Makita 2450 rotary hammer.

Having determined the nature of the malfunction of the Makita hammer drill, proceed to disassemble the mechanical part, called the gearbox.

Disassemble the mechanical part according to the enclosed. Free it from the old grease. Take a close look at what remains to be done by our client, parts, their integrity, level of wear. What remains to be done for our client? Rubber products require a change at any disassembly.

Let’s consider the repair of the perforator barrel. Let us examine the mechanism completely. Disassembly, lubrication and assembly of the Makita rotary hammer

: Bulkhead rotary hammer Makita 2450

Remember! At the bottom of the housing, the rotor is held by electronic brushes, which must be pulled out without fail.

Next, the rotor must be disconnected from the removed mechanism. The rotor is simply disconnected from the mechanism by pulling it out, as it is held due to the friction of 2 helical gears.

This is such a dirty knot came out.

Now we need to separate the percussion shaft.

In most cases, rubber rings wear out, firing pin pos. 24, compressor spring pos. 18. And cylinder parts.

Oh, so the barrel parts wear out and collapse if the tool is misused.

Let’s see the best complex malfunction. the breakdown of the striking mechanism. Corresponding signs of failure of the percussion mechanism are the absence of a blow and the nasty noise of a working punch working in the "Blow" mode.

: Minute of vandalism) (21) Hammer drill Makita HR 2450 Powerful recoil on impact mode

Such a malfunction is characteristic of rotary hammers, which, during use, were very pressed against the surface to be treated. Having disassembled the gearbox, we remove fragments and pieces of third-party items. We find the faulty part and clean the rest of the old grease.

The striker, pos. 24, art. 324396-8, included in the barrel.

Iron ring pos. 27. Art. 324216-6.

Discard warped parts, replace with new ones, cover with a thin layer of grease. The parts are ready for assembly. However, about this decision in a subsequent article.

How to repair the Makita HR 2450 rotary hammer if the impact mode is gone

Makita power tools have long established themselves as a professional, reliable and easy to maintain. It also has good maintainability and a relatively low price.

Of all the lines of hammer drills, I want to slow down on the Makita HR 2450 model. The tool is very comfortable to use, has three modes of operation and can withstand very long loads. The perforator has worked reliably for the creator of these lines for more than 6 years without breakdowns. over, it was used while working in the mode of saturated loads.

However, as we know, nothing infinite exists. And reliable technology breaks down. Somehow, in the midst of work, he did not bother. Working in rotation mode, the machine worked, but the blow suddenly disappeared.

The gearbox was disassembled and the cause of the breakdown was identified. The bushing was broken in the barrel body when the hammer (firing pin) specifically makes impact work.

For this reason, the drummer is jammed in the fragments of the collapsed bushing.

The service recommended changing the barrel completely. It turned out that the bushing is pressed into the barrel at the factory and is not supplied separately. I had to take a completely new barrel.

Here the creator will tell you how to bring the hammer drill into working condition himself after this, in general, light breakdown. If, of course, you have the ability to repair power tools and a desire not to pay someone your hard-earned money, then we take the tool and start disassembling the machine.

Two simple flat-head screwdrivers and one cross-head will come in handy. One of the flat screwdrivers can be narrow or narrow, less than 4 mm wide. A wire hook is also useful to remove the retaining ring. It is made from a bicycle knitting needle, the main thing is that the wire is rigid and simply does not unbend. You will also need a rubber hammer or a wooden mallet.

Disassembly of the punch should be started by removing the protective rubber cap. boot. It just comes off, just take it with your fingers and pull it off the barrel.

Then, pushing on the plastic cover and squeezing the spring of the SDS mechanism lock, remove the retaining ring with a screwdriver.

Remove the stopper using a screwdriver

The cover is removed from the barrel, and behind it, again squeezing the spring, we pull out the retainer ball together with the spring and curly washer.

After that, the mode switch is disassembled. Under the lid holding the reddish release button, of course, there is a special slot for a screwdriver. Having inserted a screwdriver into the myth groove and prying the cover a little at first from the edge textbook, and then from the second, carefully remove it. Here it is not recommended to make significant efforts, the cover is still plastic and may break. The reddish button together with the spring is removed from the switch housing, and it is transferred to the left in full, a little further than the drilling mode. It is from this position that it is removed from the gearbox. For this operation, the switch must be slightly picked up with thin screwdrivers on both sides and removed together with a rubber O-ring.

Remove the punch mode switch

Now the gearbox is being removed. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the four bolts connecting the box to the stator housing. Then, holding it with your hand, you need to hit a little with a mallet on the end of the barrel so that the box comes off the gearbox.

Remove the gearbox

After removing the box, we take out the barrel from the gearbox. He is filming just.

We take out the barrel from the gearbox

With a rag, you need to remove the old grease, and wash the barrel with gasoline with another kerosene and wipe dry.

What is needed, as mentioned above, required a 100% change in the entire barrel. But purchased in a car service, this item turned out to be "naked as a falcon." In other words, nothing happened here, and what remains to be done for our client is to rearrange the parts from the old barrel to the newest "blank".

The most difficult operation was removing the striker from the barrel body. There are special holes in the barrel body through which the retaining ring is visible. This ring holds the firing pin with rings and rubber dampers in the body seat. Having inserted a narrow screwdriver into the hole, bend the ring a little. We do this at first a positive moment in one, and then on the other. The stopper must come out of the groove.

Using 2 screwdrivers, squeeze the stopper

Then from the inside with a homemade wire hook we pull out the stopper into the light of day.

With a wire hook, remove the stopper from the inside

Then we remove the firing pin with washers and rubber rings. It is necessary to understand or sketch the placement of all rings and washers for assembly. If something does not go to the same extent, photos and pictures from the article will help.

Now you need to remove the gear from the shaft. Pressing the washer and squeezing the spring, remove the retaining ring from the groove with a narrow screwdriver. After removing it, remove the washer, spring and gear from the barrel.

The toothed wheel is pushed onto the new barrel and engaged with the splines. Next, a spring with a washer and a stopper are installed at this address. It is necessary to insert the retaining ring and fix the mechanism in the working position.

For this purpose, you should take the barrel in both hands and, resting it in your palms, with your fingers squeeze the spring with force, immediately moving the washer and stopper down. You need to squeeze until the stopper enters the groove.

Then a firing pin with washers and rubber rings is installed inside the barrel in the order in which he understood. However, before that you need to check the condition of the drummer, his appearance.

If the firing pin has dents and cavities after a long work differently because it was scratched on a broken bushing, then it should be slightly sanded.

For this purpose, it is clamped into a drill chuck and processed with fine emery cloth. If the bumps are very large, then the drummer will be easier to change.

It is necessary to lubricate the firing pin with special grease before installation and in the near future use the lubricant during operation. When inserting the drill into the hammer drill, you need to apply a little grease to its shank. This extends the service life of the machine.

Having installed the striker mechanism in the barrel, we secure it with a retaining ring. Using a screwdriver, try to move the striker on both sides from the inside of the barrel. He should just walk in the canal and not even jam.

The assembled barrel is installed in the gearbox housing. Putting it on a cylinder with a piston, we put it into mesh with the drive gear and insert it into the body. Our client is left with parts that should be perfectly lubricated during assembly.

Installing the barrel into the gearbox

Then we install the gearbox, having previously lubricated the needle bearing. With 4 bolts we pull the box to the stator housing and set the operating mode switch to the area. For this purpose, set it to a position slightly to the left of the drilling mode. Insert the reddish spring button and move the switch to the drilling mode. Snap the plastic cover and check the switch.

Install the mode switch to the area

Snap the cover of the punch mode switch

Then, ending with a chord, the SDS mechanism is assembled. After installing the mechanism spring, we put on a figured washer and insert the ball. After completing the plastic cover, squeeze the spring of the mechanism and insert the retaining ring. Putting on a rubber boot is no longer difficult.

Squeezing the spring with a washer, install the retainer ball

Installing the SDS mechanism

Trying the hammer drill under load. During the operation of the machine, there is no third-party noise in the gearbox; the operating mode switch should simply move without jamming. Then everything should work as before the breakdown.

The creator of this article hopes that it will help esteemed readers understand the repair of a hammer drill. It doesn’t matter what kind of breakdown is possible it will be easy if you find its cause. And then everything depends on your skill and diligence.

In the construction industry, the use of Makita rock drills is very important. The value of this technique can hardly be overestimated, it is irreplaceable when working with concrete, stone, as it is also called brick. Our client is left with particularly strong materials that lend themselves to the pressure of this versatile tool. In everyday life, Makita hammer drills are used to drill holes in concrete and stone, to produce gaps, recesses, cable channels in the walls and in the floor.

The Makita hammer drill has a double protective motor insulation. Among the indivisible parts of the structure there is a release clutch, which prevents a jerk when the drill is jammed, and an electric speed control. An indicator of corporate identity. the tool is equipped with a comfortable tool case.

Most of the models are equipped with a dust extraction system and come with a soft rubber grip on the handle. The range includes Makita rotary hammers, both straight and vertical motor.

It can do 3 functions: drilling, hammer drilling, chiseling.

Depending on the number of functions performed, they are divided into three groups:

• Single-mode. do hammer drilling, e.G. Makita HR 2010.
• Dual-mode. drilling and hammer drilling, or hammer drilling and chiselling. The most popular hammer drill is. Makita HR 5001 C can drill with a blow or chisel.
• Three-mode. switch to any mode of operation. For example, Makita HR 2450.

• The SDS Plus chuck is available in one, two and three mode rock drills up to 5 kg. Feature: power up to 850 W, impact force up to 5.3 J, drilling diameter in concrete 18-30 mm.
• Two- and three-mode models with weight from 5, 9 kg are offered with SDS max chuck. Trait: power 1100-1500W, impact force 8, 3-17, 5J, largest drill diameter 40-50mm, crowns 105-160mm. Advantages: Highest power and low vibration.

Shop “Makita. »Is a dealer of a Japanese company and offers a wide range of Makita rotary hammers with a manufacturer’s warranty and delivery. Professional managers who have completed training courses will help you choose the best model!

We want to offer Makita perforators throughout Russia: Moscow, St. Petersburg, Yekaterinburg, Chelyabinsk, Nizhny Novgorod and other towns with delivery and warranty, call! Find out detailed information about the methods and of delivery You can contact our managers.

Due to the ingress of dust, dirt and moisture, the internal lubricant becomes hard over time and does not fulfill its purpose. The hammer drill starts to work with abnormal noise. When starting to repair a hammer drill, be sure to read the attached instructions for disassembling, lubricating, assembling the Makita 2450, 2470 hammer drill assemblies. We will also tell you how to disassemble the Makita 2450 rotary hammer.

Dismantling the Makita 2470 punch begins with removing the mode switch knob.

What is included

The complete set of the Makita HR2450 hammer drill is rather weak and includes only an additional handle and a depth stop. A plastic case is used for storing and transporting the tool. Its dimensions in length, width and height are 572x307x121 mm, and the total weight is 4.66 kg.

Advantages of the Makita HR 2450 hammer drill

• The ability to install the bit in 40 positions at various angles, which allows you to work even in the most inconvenient conditions.
• The presence of electronic regulation ensures the most optimal number of revolutions in each case.
• Improved percussion mechanism significantly reduced vibration during operation.
• Using a release clutch to protect the gearbox when the drill gets jammed.
• Double protective insulation allows connection to outlets without protective grounding.

Using basic functions

Working with the Makita HR2450 starts with turning on the tool. First, you should check how the switch works, its free play and return to its original position. Direct inclusion is carried out by pressing the trigger type trigger button. By changing the pressing force, you can increase or decrease the rotation speed.

To turn off the punch, the button is released, after which it automatically returns to the OFF position. If continuous operation is required, the switch is pressed with the required force and fixed in this position with a special button. To stop the tool from this position, the switch is pressed all the way down and then released abruptly.

A secure hold of the rock drill is provided by an additional side handle. Installation to the most comfortable position is done by turning the handle counterclockwise to loosen the mount. After the handle is installed, it is tightened again in the opposite direction, that is, clockwise.

Replacement of accessories in Makita 2450 is performed with the tool completely switched off. The cord must be disconnected from the power source. Drill shanks are pre-lubricated with a special wear-reducing grease. The drill is inserted into the holder and rotated in it until it engages securely. The reliability of the fastening is checked by trying to pull the drill out of the socket. To remove the snap-in, the holder cover must be pulled down, after which the snap-in can be pulled out freely.

The drilling depth is adjustable with a stop. It is inserted into a hole located in the base of the clamp and fixed in position with a wing bolt. The limiter must never come into contact with the gear housing.

Makita HR2450. Rotary Hammer Review

Rotary hammers from the Makita company have long become an indispensable assistant in construction and repair. Among them, the HR2450 model occupies a special place, due to its performance and technical characteristics. High reliability and excellent performance of the Makita HR2450 allow you to successfully cope with the tasks.

• Makita HR2450 Features and Performance
• Using basic functions
• Some features of operation
• What is included
• Advantages of the Makita HR 2450 hammer drill
• Disassembly and repair of the Makita HR 2450 rotary hammer

Makita HR2450 Features and Performance

The hammer drill can operate in three working modes. Makita 2450 performs conventional drilling and hammer drilling, and, if necessary, switches to slotting mode. The tool is equipped with electronic speed control and a reverse function, it has a torque limiter. Thanks to the universal SDS Plus chuck, tool changes are quick and easy. A standard 220-volt network is used as a power source.

All these functions allow you to perform a wide range of construction work. Jamming protection prevents tool failure and reduces recoil at the moment of collision with the reinforcement. The presence of a rubberized handle, excellent balancing and ergonomics make the use of the tool convenient, comfortable and safe.

The main characteristics of the Makita HR2450 are expressed in the following numbers:

Some features of operation

The Makita 2450 hammer drill will work reliably throughout the entire service life, subject to certain rules. The main ones are the following:

• Check the direction of rotation before starting work.
• The reverse function can only be used when the instrument is stopped. Shifts are effortless to avoid switch breakage.
• Do not press the power button with the direction of rotation switch in neutral.
• The operating mode switch can be set exactly to the desired position, according to the printed symbols.
• The overload clutch engages when the torque reaches a certain value. At this point, the motor is disconnected from the shaft and the drill stops. When the clutch is triggered, the rock drill must be turned off immediately to avoid overloading the motor.
• Hammer drilling is done effortlessly with light pressure on the tool. During operation, the drill is periodically removed from the hole at idle speed. This removes small particles, crumbs and dust, making further drilling easier. It is recommended to use a special rubber bulb for cleaning.
• Drilling of wood and metal structures is carried out using a drill chuck with an adapter. All actions are performed in a shockless operating mode. In such cases, the impact mode must not be used as it could damage the cartridge. Strong pressure on the instrument should be avoided.