Dismantling the battery of the Makita electric screwdriver 12 volt

How to disassemble and repair makita bl1013 battery

What is the load for?

Let’s work with the load resistance. As already mentioned, you can take two, each with a nominal value of 1 ohm. If we put both of them in parallel, then the total resistance we get 0.5 Ohm. It is not necessary to adhere to these ratings, but the lower the resistance, the better.

What is the role of load resistors in qualitatively replacing the battery pack? If we take any electrical appliance and measure the voltage indicator in its battery, we will get a certain value. However, this value does not show how well a particular battery can give its energy. If we measure the voltage under load, we will have what is called “voltage drop”. It is just from it that you can judge how good or bad the battery is.

The load resistance in the form of two small metal blanks and wires connected in parallel to each other is carefully connected to a voltmeter. This loading method is acceptable only if the output voltage of your battery is 12 volts or less (safe voltage level).

The wires are neatly fixed in the “sockets” of the voltmeter with probes, and a constant voltage threshold of 20 volts is set on the voltmeter. This indicator is quite enough to measure U for the entire bunch of elements as a whole and for each element separately, which is especially important.

Soldering banks

Soldering should be done by spot welding using a regular aspirin tablet. It is impossible to solder one element directly to another: any heating causes the evaporation of the electrolyte and a rise in temperature, which can be critical for the battery.

When disassembling the bundle and soldering, it is important not to lose metal particles, which may be indispensable when soldering the elements together. To be on the safe side, you can take care in advance of how to make blanks of spare plates from bending metal. It is important to remember the following: the better I solder, the better the battery will work.

Aspirin gives off a lot of corrosive fumes, so work in a well-ventilated area. A soft fusible composition with flowing properties is taken as a solder. The solder is sprinkled with aspirin powder, so it flows between the plates and connects them securely, and aspirin helps to fix the composition in the right place.

The assembled battery is installed in the case, and the operation of the electric screwdriver is checked. If the tool is running, the newly assembled battery is charged as usual and its functionality is checked again. If there is no drop in revolutions of the instrument, this means that the experiment was successful. Since nickel-cadmium batteries work for a long time with proper operation, there is a chance that a new bundle assembled with your own hands will not fail, and a battery for an electric screwdriver, made by yourself, will work properly.

DISASSEMBLE MAKITA BATTERY 12V 1.3AH

How to assemble one battery from two

It so happens that the best way out of the situation when both batteries are “hooked” is a way to assemble one complete battery of two. Using any of the proposed methods, you can disassemble both blocks in order to understand which elements are suitable for further use, and which should be discarded.

  • two batteries;
  • Charger;
  • any thin and flat screwdriver;
  • scalpel;
  • a piece of sandpaper;
  • two wires;
  • load resistance (two are possible);
  • voltmeter for voltage measurements.

Charging the batteries

Before disassembling the blocks, be sure to charge them well. With subsequent voltage measurements, this is what will make it possible to understand which batteries are “live” and which are not. Before charging the batteries, it is recommended to clean the internal contacts of the charger with emery paper, because any contact resistance can “give out” an incorrect charging process.

When you charge both batteries alternately, pay attention to how fast they charge. If the battery is charged quickly, and the charge indicator signals the end of the process after just a few minutes, this means that there are definitely faulty cells in the battery. And of course, when the battery charges too slowly, or does not take current at all, it should definitely be disassembled and “tested” all the batteries that are inside. Read more about the charging time of the electric screwdriver battery →

After you charge and disassemble your battery pack, you will see that there are several elements inside it. cans. The number may vary depending on the voltage level of your instrument. The banks are connected in a certain series. Inside there is a thermal sensor brought out to the contact plates.

If the signal from the temperature sensor to the charger is incorrect, then the battery will receive either an undercharge or an overcharge. Both are highly undesirable for the battery and adversely affect its performance. This is why it is strongly recommended to clean the contacts before charging both batteries.

How to disassemble the battery of a Makita electric screwdriver 12 V, bonded with glue

The glue seam should be disconnected especially carefully so that cracks and splits do not appear on the plastic, and when assembled, the case completely covers all the electronic parts and ensures safety. To do this, it is rational to use a mallet with a rubber striker, or another hammer made of soft material.

Around the entire perimeter of the seam, blows are applied, applying medium force, ensuring that the gun slightly bounces off the body. The procedure is not short-term, it takes from 10 minutes. and more should be done without haste. In its course, the halves of the body are periodically slightly pulled away from each other, helping them to separate. The adhesive layer collapses with a characteristic sound, when specific clicks become more frequent, you can help the separation with a thin knife blade, or a similar tool, trying to open the seam with it.

Another way to gently unfasten the glued module is with a thin knife, flat screwdriver. It lasts a little longer, work must be done with caution, since the risk of injury and plastic cracking is very high. With a blade, carefully loosen the seam around the entire perimeter, then insert a screwdriver tip into it and slowly separate the halves of the module.

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Before disassembling the battery of a 12 volt Makita electric screwdriver, you can warm up the glue layer using a construction hair dryer, which will speed up and facilitate the work. Having placed the battery module at a safe distance, a hot stream is directed to the connection, warming it up around the perimeter. When the glue softens, the case will be easy to open.

Important: gloves used during work will help avoid burns.

We measure the voltage

Before measuring the voltage of the cells, prepare a simple pencil with which you will write down the value of U issued by each battery in the bundle. Since in most cases “walking” screwdrivers are equipped with nickel-cadmium batteries packed in dense cardboard layers, it is important to ensure that the batteries are accessible from both sides.

Now it remains to turn on the voltmeter (or multimeter) and start measuring. When measuring, we make each battery an exposure for five seconds and see if the voltage drops (usually it is normally about 1.2 volts for each battery separately). We fix the indicators with a pencil. It is impossible to keep the probes on batteries for a long time, because the resistance increases, and they can simply burn out.

Practice shows that one has only to fail one element from the entire bundle, this negatively affects the operation of all batteries. If the voltage indicator on any “bank” is 1 volt or less, it has already exhausted its resource. In order to finally make sure of this, you should check the self-discharge level of each battery in the bundle.

Repeated measurements are taken after 15 minutes. When measuring, be sure to check the primary U values ​​with repeated ones. If it turns out that there are batteries, the voltage of which after the initial measurements dropped sharply during the second measurement, it means that they have a high self-discharge, and it is these elements that have already completely become unusable.

After the unusable elements are “calculated”, we disconnect them from the rest with a scalpel, and in their place we put usable batteries from a spare battery. So we redo the entire block, collecting one full-fledged from two.

A little about how to convert a battery from cadmium to lithium and who needs it

Let’s talk about how to convert the battery yourself from one type of battery to another. There are many videos on this topic on the Internet, where a lot is said about what are the advantages of having lithium in the electric screwdriver. However, if you do not use the tool intensively and constantly, there is absolutely no point in a lithium battery. Lithium-ion batteries tend to “age” more quickly than cadmium, and simply do not have time to develop their resource under conditions if the tool is used from time to time.

Alteration of the battery of an electric screwdriver using lithium batteries may be necessary for professional craftsmen who use the tool on a daily basis and need powerful power sources. Of course, with a strong desire, you can re-solder the battery to lithium, but whether this is advisable is up to you. Read more about which batteries are best for an electric screwdriver →

Thus, you can not only disassemble the battery of any electric screwdriver, but also solder one of two bundles, which will last as long as possible, and you will not have to buy a new battery in the near future.

The work of a converted battery, provided that the cells are correctly soldered, will be no worse. The main thing is to treat the process with patience and maximum care, so that at the first experience, you will finish the job with minimal losses and solder everything correctly. If you manage to collect everything, this will become an additional incentive to continue your experiments in the field of electronics. Assemble the battery yourself once. and you can save money on buying new batteries for an electric screwdriver in the future.

In this post I will tell you how I converted my Makita 6271D electric screwdriver from Ni-Cd to Li-Ion batteries.

My knowledge was not enough for this, so I was guided by this (in my opinion a good) report. “link”.

My reasons for converting an electric screwdriver to lithium:

Standard batteries no longer hold a charge. Enough for 10 minutes. not intensive work 2. The cost of new “branded” batteries is not humane to say the least. 3. Low stress on the electric screwdriver. I use it as needed 1-2 times a month. Nickel-cadmium batteries do not like this mode. There is no need to work with the shura in low temperatures. What kills lithium batteries 5. Availability of a laptop power supply (19 V, 1.5 A).

The battery for the Makita electric screwdriver is disassembled in order to replace one / several cans (batteries), or to transfer it to another type of nutrient elements. Work must be carried out with the utmost care, movements must be precise, careful so that the case, banks, electronic boards and wires are not damaged, and the module, after assembly, functioned properly and safely.

How to disassemble the battery of a Makita electric screwdriver 12 V, bonded with glue

The glue seam should be disconnected especially carefully so that cracks and splits do not appear on the plastic, and when assembled, the case completely covers all the electronic parts and ensures safety. To do this, it is rational to use a mallet with a rubber striker, or another hammer made of soft material.

Around the entire perimeter of the seam, blows are applied, applying medium force, ensuring that the gun slightly bounces off the body. The procedure is not short-term, it takes from 10 minutes. and more should be done without haste. In its course, the halves of the body are periodically slightly pulled away from each other, helping them to separate. The adhesive layer collapses with a characteristic sound, when specific clicks become more frequent, you can help the separation with a thin knife blade, or a similar tool, trying to open the seam with it.

Another way to gently unfasten the glued module is with a thin knife, flat screwdriver. It lasts a little longer, work must be done with caution, since the risk of injury and plastic cracking is very high. With a blade, carefully loosen the seam around the entire perimeter, then insert a screwdriver tip into it and slowly separate the halves of the module.

Before disassembling the battery of a 12 volt Makita electric screwdriver, you can warm up the glue layer using a construction hair dryer, which will speed up and facilitate the work. Having placed the battery module at a safe distance, a hot stream is directed to the connection, warming it up around the perimeter. When the glue softens, the case will be easy to open.

Important: gloves used during work will help avoid burns.

Types of fasteners, preparation for work

The battery module can be fastened with:

  • glue;
  • latches;
  • screws.
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It is not uncommon for a combination fastener to be used with the simultaneous use of different types of fasteners, such as screws and glue.

Before disassembling the battery from the Makita electric screwdriver, you should measure the voltage issued by the battery pack. This figure will help determine the number of faulty cans. After assembly, the measurement is carried out again, checking the correctness of the work done.

How to disassemble a battery from a Makita electric screwdriver

The battery for the Makita electric screwdriver is disassembled in order to replace one / several cans (batteries), or to transfer it to another type of nutrient elements. Work must be carried out with the utmost care, movements must be precise, careful so that the case, banks, electronic boards and wires are not damaged, and the module, after assembly, functioned properly and safely.

Connection with screws, latches

Loosening a screw fastener also requires care. Pick up a screwdriver with a suitable tip shape, rod length. They remember from which holes each screw was unscrewed, and during assembly they are screwed strictly into place. This must be done due to the fact that the hardware can be of different lengths. A short screw screwed into a deep hole will not be able to secure the connection, and a long screw placed in a short opening can pierce the wall of the case, power elements and even an electronic board. If, as a result, the electrolyte seeps out, the microcircuits, nearby banks will be damaged, and in case of unfavorable development of events, an explosion is possible.

The module, fastened with latches, is easy to open: you just need to find them and open them with moderate force. Most often, one latch is used, or two side.

Soldering banks

Soldering should be done by spot welding using a regular aspirin tablet. It is impossible to solder one element directly to another: any heating causes the evaporation of the electrolyte and a rise in temperature, which can be critical for the battery.

When disassembling the bundle and soldering, it is important not to lose metal particles, which may be indispensable when soldering the elements together. To be on the safe side, you can take care in advance of how to make blanks of spare plates from bending metal. It is important to remember the following: the better I solder, the better the battery will work.

Aspirin gives off a lot of corrosive fumes, so work in a well-ventilated area. A soft fusible composition with flowing properties is taken as a solder. The solder is sprinkled with aspirin powder, so it flows between the plates and connects them securely, and aspirin helps to fix the composition in the right place.

The assembled battery is installed in the case, and the operation of the electric screwdriver is checked. If the tool is running, the newly assembled battery is charged as usual and its functionality is checked again. If there is no drop in revolutions of the instrument, this means that the experiment was successful. Since nickel-cadmium batteries work for a long time with proper operation, there is a chance that a new bundle assembled with your own hands will not fail, and a battery for an electric screwdriver, made by yourself, will work properly.

What is the load for?

Let’s work with the load resistance. As already mentioned, you can take two, each with a nominal value of 1 ohm. If we put both of them in parallel, then the total resistance we get 0.5 Ohm. It is not necessary to adhere to these ratings, but the lower the resistance, the better.

battery, makita, electric, screwdriver

What is the role of load resistors in qualitatively replacing the battery pack? If we take any electrical appliance and measure the voltage indicator in its battery, we will get a certain value. However, this value does not show how well a particular battery can give its energy. If we measure the voltage under load, we will have what is called “voltage drop”. It is just from it that you can judge how good or bad the battery is.

The load resistance in the form of two small metal blanks and wires connected in parallel to each other is carefully connected to a voltmeter. This loading method is acceptable only if the output voltage of your battery is 12 volts or less (safe voltage level).

The wires are neatly fixed in the “sockets” of the voltmeter with probes, and a constant voltage threshold of 20 volts is set on the voltmeter. This indicator is quite enough to measure U for the entire bunch of elements as a whole and for each element separately, which is especially important.

Charging the batteries

Before disassembling the blocks, be sure to charge them well. With subsequent voltage measurements, this is what will make it possible to understand which batteries are “live” and which are not. Before charging the batteries, it is recommended to clean the internal contacts of the charger with emery paper, because any contact resistance can “give out” an incorrect charging process.

When you charge both batteries alternately, pay attention to how fast they charge. If the battery is charged quickly, and the charge indicator signals the end of the process after just a few minutes, this means that there are definitely faulty cells in the battery. And of course, when the battery charges too slowly, or does not take current at all, it should definitely be disassembled and “tested” all the batteries that are inside. Read more about the charging time of the electric screwdriver battery →

After you charge and disassemble your battery pack, you will see that there are several elements inside it. cans. The number may vary depending on the voltage level of your instrument. The banks are connected in a certain series. Inside there is a thermal sensor brought out to the contact plates.

If the signal from the temperature sensor to the charger is incorrect, then the battery will receive either an undercharge or an overcharge. Both are highly undesirable for the battery and adversely affect its performance. This is why it is strongly recommended to clean the contacts before charging both batteries.

How to assemble one battery from two

It so happens that the best way out of the situation when both batteries are “hooked” is a way to assemble one complete battery of two. Using any of the proposed methods, you can disassemble both blocks in order to understand which elements are suitable for further use, and which should be discarded.

  • two batteries,
  • Charger,
  • any thin and flat screwdriver,
  • scalpel,
  • a piece of sandpaper,
  • two wires,
  • load resistance (two are possible),
  • voltmeter for voltage measurements.

We measure the voltage

Before measuring the voltage of the cells, prepare a simple pencil with which you will write down the value of U issued by each battery in the bundle. Since in most cases “walking” screwdrivers are equipped with nickel-cadmium batteries packed in dense cardboard layers, it is important to ensure that the batteries are accessible from both sides.

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Now it remains to turn on the voltmeter (or multimeter) and start measuring. When measuring, we make each battery an exposure for five seconds and see if the voltage drops (usually it is normally about 1.2 volts for each battery separately). We fix the indicators with a pencil. It is impossible to keep the probes on batteries for a long time, because the resistance increases, and they can simply burn out.

Practice shows that one has only to fail one element from the entire bundle, this negatively affects the operation of all batteries. If the voltage indicator on any “bank” is 1 volt or less, it has already exhausted its resource. In order to finally make sure of this, you should check the self-discharge level of each battery in the bundle.

Repeated measurements are taken after 15 minutes. When measuring, be sure to check the primary U values ​​with repeated ones. If it turns out that there are batteries, the voltage of which after the initial measurements dropped sharply during the second measurement, it means that they have a high self-discharge, and it is these elements that have already completely become unusable.

After the unusable elements are “calculated”, we disconnect them from the rest with a scalpel, and in their place we put usable batteries from a spare battery. So we redo the entire block, collecting one full-fledged from two.

battery, makita, electric, screwdriver

We disassemble the battery with a spatula or a clerical knife

For those who are not used to working with a mallet and want to make the battery disassembly process look quieter and more gentle, you can suggest using a small metal spatula or a utility knife. The main thing is that they do not have sharp edges, like a large screwdriver, which can easily damage plastic.

First, you should completely walk around the perimeter of the entire block with a knife to loosen the seam, and only after that you can begin to “pick” the flexible plastic with a small screwdriver. The method is no less painstaking than the first, and if a person is not experienced enough, damage may remain on the plastic case. However, if you work as carefully as possible, it is possible to do without “losses” and in this case.

If, when disassembling the battery pack, you still have cracks or other damage, you should not be upset, because this type of plastic lends itself well to gluing with dichloroethane.

How to disassemble and remake a battery from an electric screwdriver with your own hands

Everyone knows that the battery of an electric screwdriver sooner or later begins to lose its former performance and needs to be replaced. Usually only a couple of elements in a common bundle “sit down”, but this negatively affects the entire battery. Therefore, it becomes necessary to either replace several elements with new ones, or still change the battery pack completely. Since the complete set of any electric screwdriver. “Hitachi”, “Makita” and other models. includes two batteries, if you wish, you can try to assemble a whole homemade battery from two. The owners of power tools, who use them all the time, sooner or later begin to wonder how to convert the battery of an electric screwdriver to lithium. As for the newcomers, who were puzzled by this goal for the first time, they first of all have a question about how to disassemble the battery from the Makita electric screwdriver or any other, so as not to damage the fragile plastic box.

Experienced electronics enthusiasts assemble different types of batteries, including power supplies for an uninterruptible power supply (UPS). This is much more difficult than disassembling the battery of an electric drill. Any drill is often produced with so-called “non-separable” battery packs, which are either firmly sealed with tape around the perimeter, or their two parts fit so tightly to each other that, at first glance, it is impossible to disconnect them without causing forced external damage. However, among the craftsmen you can find people who have already thoroughly “got their hands on” such batteries and can happily share their secrets with everyone.

How to disassemble a battery using a regular mallet

In order to disassemble the battery from a Bosch electric screwdriver, “Metabo” or any other tool of 12 volts or more, you need to make some effort. If you just pick out the adjacent edges of the battery pack with a screwdriver, it will turn out to be sloppy. In addition, there is a greater risk that the fragile plastic structure will simply break.

Therefore, it is recommended to take a mallet and begin to slowly tap on the edge of the seam until characteristic sounds appear, meaning that the seam itself begins to weaken on the sly. It will take a long time to knock, and it will take time and patience. But it is in this way that you can ensure that the disassembly of the battery from the Makita electric screwdriver will be crowned with success, without unnecessary breakdowns and losses.

After a while, you will hear a crack of a breaking seam. The batteries themselves inside from such manipulations will not be damaged. Only the seam holding the block will break, and the “cans” and the two halves of the plastic case will remain unharmed.

When we disassemble the block, knock on the body with a mallet lightly, without making any special efforts, so that it bounces slightly off the surface. From time to time, between tapping, you can try to slowly pull back the bottom cover of the block, thereby checking how much the seam has loosened. In such cases, the mallet itself will be slightly damaged, but there is nothing wrong with that.

When the clicks when tapping become regular, you should check the block with some thin knife, carefully inserting it between the halves of the case. When the two parts of the case begin to open, it will be visible. it means that we have almost achieved our goal.

It is worth warning right away that the battery packs of the 12-volt Makita electric screwdriver are often extremely sturdy and difficult to disassemble. But if you slowly work with a mallet, the seam on the glue will gradually crumble. This may take ten minutes or more in time. But for a person with experience, the whole process takes no more than six minutes.

This is how, gradually and accurately, you can disassemble the battery of the electric screwdriver, which the manufacturer deliberately made “non-removable”. in order not to change the batteries in it, but immediately run after a new one, which is expensive. Of course, this will require some skill and accuracy. But it will also save money, and at the same time learn how to disassemble the battery from the Makita electric screwdriver with your own hands.