DIY miter saw from an angle grinder

Machine base

First you need to weld a corner steel frame with a cross section of at least 40X40 mm. The specific size of the table depends on the massiveness of the workpieces and the dimensions of the tool, but on average, a width of 40–45 cm and a length of at least 65 cm will be sufficient.

miter, angle, grinder

To ensure sufficient rigidity, spacers and corner gussets must be added. At least one additional tie from a steel strip should be installed in the center of the table, another one. with an offset of 60–80 mm from the rear edge, where the base of the hinge will be attached. The whole structure is made on welded joints with double-sided welding of seams. The upper plane of the frame must be sanded for a snug fit of the sheet.

The table frame can be sheathed from above with sheet steel with a thickness of 2 to 3 mm. Optimally, if the sheet is removable, for this you need to weld the threaded parts of 6 mm bolts in the amount of 12-14 pieces to the wrong side, evenly distributing them over the table area. The sheet should cover at least 2/3 of the base starting from the front edge. No more needed, the base of the hinge must still be attached directly to the supporting structure.

Swivel-broaching mechanism

We come to the most difficult part of the machine. the lever feed mechanism. Its main unit will be a connecting rod of an automobile engine; in order to reduce costs, it is recommended to purchase spare parts for cars of such brands as DAEWOO or Chery. You can also use used accessories, but without neck deformation and without traces of strong wear.

To attach the connecting rod to the table, it is necessary to make a fork from a steel strip with a thickness of about 6-7 mm, it can be either hot bent on a mandrel, or welded from three rectangular fragments. The distance between the inner walls should be equal to the width of the upper connecting rod head. In the side walls of the bracket, you need to drill two coaxial holes, the diameter of which corresponds to the size of the connecting rod bush. The connecting rod is fastened in the bracket by means of a standard piston pin, while the protrusions along the edges are selected with distance washers, and then tightened with a bolt and nut.

The forked end of the connecting rod is designed to hold a seamless pipe of the appropriate diameter in it, which can be replaced with a steel rod fitted in a rolling bearing of a suitable standard size. In the latter case, the installation of the liners is not required. The upper knot should remain movable; the best option is to grind the insert with a tolerance of about 0.02 mm. The best way to avoid insert misalignment is to groove the two snap ring grooves. On one side, the pipe or rod should have an overhang for attaching a lever, which is a good choice for two wide steel strips or sections of a profile pipe. They need to be bent taking into account the shape of the angle grinder body and drilled two holes for bolting the gearbox.

The rotary movement of the mechanism is provided by the upper connecting rod head. In this case, the disc moves obliquely from the front of the workpiece to the rear bottom, which increases the maximum stroke length and depth of cut. The broaching is carried out at the expense of the lower head: when the turning reserve is exhausted, the entire hinge tilts forward and allows the disc to move an additional 80–100 mm. In order to regulate the actuation force of both joints, it is necessary to select the springs with the appropriate force. Alternatively, we can offer hydraulic racks for furniture fronts.

It is very easy to adjust the force of springs or struts. by varying their pre-tension and fastening height. In the thin part of the connecting rod neck, a row of 6 mm holes must be drilled with a pitch of 15–20 mm. Since the steel in the connecting rods is alloyed and heat-treated, for drilling, you should use a concrete drill with a victorious brazing, sharpened in the classical way with the formation of an apex angle of 120 °. By changing the attachment points of the springs to the hinge and the table, you can quickly achieve the desired ratio of tension and compression forces.

DIY: Angle grinder conversion to miter saw, sliding circular saw, sliding rail made from hood struts

General design description

On the Internet, you can find a huge number of variations on the topic of making a homemade pendulum saw. Most of them are completely unsuitable for everyday use, although there are some really interesting technical solutions. We offer a generalized frame with a lever joint that meets the basic requirements for reliability and ease of use. We warn you that such execution requires careful and diligent attitude during assembly, but the result is definitely worth it.

At the base there is a frame made of rolled steel, which can be additionally covered with hot-rolled sheet. The most important requirement for this part of the machine is high rigidity and weight for sufficient stability, or the presence of fasteners for stationary installation on a solid base.

Ideally, a homemade saw should have a mechanism for both a lever-rotary and a broaching feed. In the factory version, a conventional hinge on rolling units and rail guides are used for this. We offer a variant with two joints, in which the correctness of the stroke is ensured by the selection of the force of the compensator springs.

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Do-it-yourself cut-off machine from an angle grinder

Angle grinders can be used in combination with additional equipment, including homemade ones. By following these instructions, you will be able to build a small frame that will allow you to turn an ordinary angle grinder into a real pendulum saw.

Electrical connection

When using a homemade cut-off saw, it is extremely inconvenient to constantly fix the standard power tool button. Therefore, as a rule, it is excluded from the electrical circuit, either mechanically blocking or short-circuiting the wires.

Safety regulations for the use of stationary metalworking equipment require that the control elements are switched with a voltage of 12 or 24 V. Thus, an inexpensive pulse transformer and an intermediate contactor of a modular type are added to the electrical circuit. You can place electrical equipment in a regular shield with a DIN rail, fixed at the back of the table.

Of the switching methods, it is most preferable to use a pedal without locking, this is the safest type of switching device. You can also use the usual “Start-Stop” button with a bypass, but in this version it is better to additionally install an emergency mushroom button.

Clamping device

At the front of the machine there is a clamping mechanism that fixes the workpiece during cutting. A simple transverse stop can be dispensed with, however, reliable and safe fastening, ensuring high cutting accuracy, can be achieved only by introducing a screw clamp into the structure. There are three versions of this node.

The first is to use the standard cut-off saw clamp removed from the donor. This option is good for its simplicity, but finding such components is very difficult. Nevertheless, if you purchase the entire assembly complete with a rotary table and a graduated angle scale, the ease of use of a homemade machine will be one of the highest.

Another option is to use a locksmith vise. Thanks to the swivel base, you can even set the cutting angle, while fixing the workpiece will be the most reliable. The main disadvantage of this method is the absence of a reference horizontal plane; the part has to be verified with each installation or independently to build a stand. Also, when using a bench vise, the height of the workpiece is greatly increased. It can be compensated only by raising the bracket in which the swivel joint is attached to the appropriate height.

The third way is to make the clamp yourself. This requires a trapezoidal screw with a pitch of at least 2 mm and a nut of the same type that is welded to the front of the table. As a pressure stop, you can use a piece of ordinary angle steel, to which the screw is attached by means of a thrust bearing or on a sliding fit.

How to Make Sliding Miter Saw with Angle Grinder

Which angle grinder to take

No matter how high the temptation to use an existing tool is, for a homemade machine it is still better to get a new angle grinder. This is due to the fact that even with a carefully thought-out design of a cutting saw, removing and installing an angle grinder takes a lot of time, especially taking into account the alignment of the power tool to maintain the accuracy of the cut. In addition, a number of additional requirements are imposed on the angle grinder used in the design of the cut-off saw:

  • Speed ​​control. Not every craftsman will be satisfied with the maximum cutting depth that a standard angle grinder with a 230 mm disc can provide. It may be tempting to use larger diameter cut-off wheels, for which it will be necessary to reduce the speed to achieve the correct radial speed.
  • Minimum body length. Too long a stick or an increased length of the engine forces the designer to construct the main arm of the pivot joint with a long overhang, which increases the material consumption and the load on the pivot unit, and this also negatively affects the accuracy of alignment.
  • Minimum overall dimensions of the gearbox. With these, everything is clear: the larger the “clean” diameter of the circle, the greater the depth of cut. For Bulgarians of comparable cost and power, this indicator may differ significantly.
  • The presence of standard holes for attaching the front handle is the most important indicator. Usually, grinders feature a thread with a diameter of 12 mm with a pitch of 2.5 mm, this is a non-standard size, usually artisans have to use a threaded pin sealed into the handle to fix it. However, in many angle grinders, the holes are two-stage, the usual M10 thread is hidden in the depth. this is ideal.

The rest of the requirements for the tool are low. Of course, it is better not to give preference to grinders of “one-day” brands of Chinese origin, a relatively reliable Intertool or Fiolent with a capacity of at least 2 kW will be enough.

Customization and revision

When the main saw units are assembled, it is necessary to adjust the machine. It consists in aligning the two reference planes and the cutting disc relative to each other.

How to Make Sliding Miter Saw with Angle Grinder

When clamped, the part occupies a certain position in space, determined by the plane of the cross stop and the table. Also, for horizontal positioning, an additional superstructure can be used, as is the case with the curved vice. Since this plane cannot be adjusted, the position of the cutting disc is set relative to it using a locksmith’s square. It is possible to tilt the cutting plane appropriately only by deforming that part of the lever mechanism by means of which the angle grinder is attached to the hinge.

As for the transverse stop, it is installed last, aligning the pressing plane with respect to the disk previously installed perpendicular to the plane of the table. To do this, it is enough to fasten the stop on bolts to the base of the machine through holes of a larger diameter.


On the Internet, I often met devices with which an angle grinder can be used as a miter saw. This prompted me to make my own version, which allows you to cut blanks also at different angles.

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On the Internet, I often met devices with which an angle grinder can be used as a miter saw. This prompted me to make my own version, which allows you to cut blanks also at different angles.

Miter Saw Angle Grinder. STEP-BY-STEP

From sheet metal 5 mm thick, I cut a plate with dimensions of 240 × 50 mm. I welded a bracket from an iron bar d 10 mm to it. A bolt welded to the top of the latter

I picked up a shaft d 25 mm with an already drilled through hole (the workpiece can be turned from a metal rod). I cut the thread for the bolt on the bracket with a tap inside the hole. I screwed the shaft onto the bolt to check the smoothness of the movement. Then I welded two M10 threaded rods to the shaft wall along the edges. To make them “walk” less during work, a metal strip 5 mm thick was welded between them

At the base (metal plate) I marked the place where the slope will be, it is necessary so that the angle grinder adheres to the plate with the whole body. Marked and drilled a hole in this area so that it coincides with the hole for the handle on the tool.

Having clamped the base in a vice, with a hammer he bent its edge to the desired angle. For reliability, I welded the plate between the pins to the shaft and aligned the welding on emery. To attach the holder to the table, I cut out two metal plates 100x50x 5 mm in size and drilled holes for the studs in them. When all the details were ready, I painted them

From a sheet of Chipboard I cut a rectangular tabletop of the desired size. Having stepped back from the edge of the short side about 20 cm, I drilled two holes. I screwed one nut onto the studs and strung a plate, set the holder on the table in the holes, strung another plate from below and screwed one more nut each. On the base, I fixed the angle grinder. In addition, I screwed a guide to the table, which I set in two planes relative to the circle of the angle grinder. at an angle of 90 and 45 degrees. You can start cutting.

On the tabletop, you can draw several corners and set a guide according to the marks. To do this, it is enough to loosen one (closest to the device) bolt, and unscrew the second. Turn the rail to the desired angle and tighten the bolts again.

Do-it-yourself miter saw with a broach

A short story about how a miter saw is assembled with a do-it-yourself broach from an angle grinder using used materials and ordinary tools. I think it will be relevant, because the branded end-facing tool with a broach is not cheap, but now generally bite.

First, the characteristics of a self-made crosscut monster:. saw blade speed. a little less than the standard for an angle grinder. 4.5 thousand. the length of the cut is 350 mm. (this pleases because much more than that of an ordinary not expensive miter saw, for example, the same Makita with its 150 mm.). the weight is not large, thanks to the use of plywood

There are other advantages:. the angle grinder can be easily removed and used separately from the bed as usual for working on a different material.

At cost, the alteration was not expensive. it took 500 rubles for the whole homemade saw (not counting the old angle grinder).

Advantages listed now need a little criticism:. the accuracy of the cuts has to be selected during test passes on waste blocks, then the thrust is rigidly fixed and a finishing saw is made.

About the design and manufacture. everything is clear from the photo, but still there are few details:

The entire upper swivel part of the miter saw is attached to a kingpin which is inserted 150mm. bearing (the largest that we managed to get) Lugs are welded to the outer side of the bearing through them and is attached to the frame with M6 screws. The debris clip itself is closed with a special lid.

The saw feed is made of “cargo” shock absorbers taken from scrap metal. They had to be gutted. to drain the oil, cut out holes for air that were “taken” from the debris with a cloth.

To work on the saw was more comfortable, I had to add a soft start block to the angle grinder, since the disc jerked too much. But thanks to this, it was possible to reduce the speed.

Naturally, in order to work safely on the disk, protection was made.

Here’s a homemade miter saw with a broach from a simple angle grinder. I think that this is not the last option for the author. shortcomings are identified, experience has come and new ideas are already swarming

Miter saw

Trimming, that is, cross-cutting boards or bars at right angles, is better if you use a special device.

You can also make such a machine from an angle grinder with your own hands.

  • To do this, an angle grinder with a disc for wood is fixed on a turntable perpendicular to the direction of the length of the board so that the plane of the disc is directed strictly vertically. One attachment point should be located in the area of ​​the gearbox, and the second at the opposite end of the machine.
  • The gearbox housing has threaded holes for attaching standard handles. Using the corners and these holes, the angle grinder must be attached to the moving part of the machine.
  • The back of the body is attached to the board with a clamp. The blade guard can be used with any power tool of suitable size.
  • Closer to the vertical support, you need to fix the stop angle. It should be located strictly perpendicular to the plane of the disk, both in vertical and horizontal directions.

The spring at the rear end of the bar serves to return the miter saw to its original position after the end of the cut. The horizontal table should have a transverse groove into which the disk enters when cutting the board. The diameter of the disc is chosen based on the width of the boards. So trimming can be done in one go. The main thing is that the inner hole of the disc must coincide with the mount on the axis of the gearbox.

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When working on such a machine, it should be borne in mind that the drive power is not designed for a large load. Therefore, the rotating disc must be brought smoothly to the surface of the part being cut, the cut should be made without strong pressure.

Circular saw from a conventional angle grinder

It is too expensive to have an entire range of electric tools at home. For example, a circular at home is rarely required. Sawing boards can be done with an upgraded angle grinder.

Table circular saw

Sometimes there is a need to change the width of the board or the thickness of the bar. The best option for this kind of work is a circular saw, especially if there are a lot of boards. For cutting boards of small length (1-2 m), the table version of the circular is very useful. It is not necessary to buy such a machine, you can do it yourself from the same angle grinder.

The design of a circular saw is much more complicated than a miter saw. The time of contact of the saw blade with wood is quite long, therefore, the reliability of fastening the body of the angle grinder to the bed should be higher.

This is how one of the options for a table circular may look like.

The photo shows that the desktop consists of two planes:

  • the upper table is designed to advance the workpiece;
  • the lower one serves as a stop for the grinder.

The disc passes through a groove in the top surface. If the angle of contact of two planes is provided with pivoting hinges, then it will be possible to adjust the working height of the saw blade to reduce the area of ​​rubbing surfaces.

The head of the bolt is clearly visible on the upper surface of the table, with the help of which the angle grinder is fixed. The protruding bolt limits the width of the board to be cut. You can cope with this problem by laying another layer of plywood.

It is rather inconvenient to turn the angle grinder on and off with the keys on the case. If the key can be fixed in the working position, then a socket with a switch should be installed on the outside of the machine.

The abutment angle should be as long as possible in order to prevent the board from deviating from the cutting direction. It is better to fasten the corner so that you can change the working distance between it and the disc: then the width of the cut part will also change.

Stationary circular

It is possible to use an angle grinder as a working mechanism in stationary conditions. The bed in this case will have a slightly different design. The stationary option implies the availability of free space and a large amount of work. Therefore, the entire structure can be made more solid, more massive, and, therefore, more reliable.

The frame of the bed can be made from a corner by a welded joint. Bolted and other types of detachable fasteners lose grip from constant vibration, the structure begins to stagger.

A working table made of a wide board or thick plywood is attached to the top of the metal frame. The workpiece will move along it. The stop angle is equipped with a movable mount for adjusting the cutting width.

It would be nice to provide for the adjustment of the table height or the removal of the disc above its surface. then it will be possible to cut longitudinal grooves in the board.

On the side of the machine there are controls: a socket and on / off buttons. In the stationary version, it makes sense to exclude the key on the body of the angle grinder from the diagram. If there is enough space, a high power sander can be used as a drive.

How to make a sawmill from an angle grinder is shown in this

Electric hand saw

A hand-held circular saw electric from an angle grinder is obtained by replacing a standard cutting disc with a disc for wood.

True, this option is suitable for short cuts in sheet materials or for cutting thin strips. With a long cut or on thick bars, there is a danger of the disc skewing, jamming it. It will be much easier to hold the saw if the handle is not positioned perpendicular to the axis of the tool, but is made a continuation of the body.

It is not recommended to remove the protective cover, as it will protect against the ingress of sawdust into the face.

Craftsmen also make a hand chain saw from an angle grinder. True, such a tool is dangerous for the user: the absence of a chain stopper can lead to unpredictable consequences. In addition, the chain is not lubricated, which leads to its rapid wear.

The nuances of using a homemade circular

It should not be overlooked that the angle grinder, by its main purpose, is an angle grinder. Therefore, using it as a homemade circular saw, you need to pay attention to the nuances.

  • Duration of continuous cutting should not exceed 15-20 minutes in order to avoid overheating of the motor.
  • The standard protection on the blade is in no way suitable for a circular saw. The protective cover can be used from a real circular or made by yourself.

It should be remembered that the rotation speed of the grinder can be more than 10,000 rpm. this is several times higher than the speed of woodworking machines. At this speed, the wood begins to smoke. In addition to an unpleasant odor, fire is possible.