DIY Mobile Miter Saw Stand (Plans & Video). Miter saw cart

DIY Mobile Miter Saw Stand (Plans Video)

Make the most of your workshop space with this clever DIY miter saw stand. It folds and rolls, and it’s easy to build with these free step-by-step plans. If you’re looking for a solution to make your miter saw mobile and save on workshop space, look no further than this DIY miter saw stand. The folding design can be set up or taken down in just a few seconds, and it fits most popular miter saws. It may look complex, but it’s easy to make with just a few simple tools. So what are you waiting for? Grab the free step-by-step plan, which includes all of the measurements, easy-to-follow instructions, and detailed diagrams, and get started now! This tutorial contains affiliate links to supplies and tools. Purchases made using these links help support the Saws on Skates website and allows me to share more projects and tips with you. There is no cost to you for using these links. Visit my site policies for more information.

What is a Mobile Miter Saw Stand?

This mobile miter saw stand is loaded with Smart features to save space, time, and improve your accuracy.

The collapsible support wings increase the size of your miter saw’s small footprint to nearly 91 inches, providing you with plenty of space when it’s time to tackle a big job. The wings also fold for storage, making it ideal for any small workshop, garage, or shed.

Four casters mounted at the bottom allow you to pull the miter saw cart out when it’s time to work and push it back when you’re done.

My buddy told me the folding arms of this miter saw station reminds him of a robot. So I’m nicknaming this project the “Miter-Bot”!

NOTE: The arms could be a pinch point. Please use caution when folding the support wings.

The folding support wings also have a stop for repeatable cuts. Using the stop saves time and improves the accuracy of your DIY projects.

Foldable Brackets on my Mobile Miter Saw Station

What Tools Do You Need?

I wanted to make sure that everyone, from beginners to advanced DIYers, could build this stand with only a few basic woodworking tools. You’ll see in the video that I used a few tools to simplify the process. In many situations, you may use another type of tool or simply skip that step.

For example, in Step 9, I rounded the corners to give the arm anchors a finished look. I used a disc sander to round the corners, but I understand not every DIYer has one. I think these pieces are too small to cut with a jigsaw, but you could use a palm sander to round the corners instead. Or you could just leave the corners square.

Nearly all of the cuts for this project can be made with a miter saw. The exception is the plywood top, which will need to be cut with either a circular saw or a table saw.

The parts of this mobile stand were joined with hole joinery. You may use any hole jig that you have. I used my Kreg Jig K5, which was discontinued since I built this project.

What Wood Should You Use?

As I mentioned earlier, I wanted this project to be easy to build for DIYers of all skill levels. I also wanted it to be easy to make for DIYers with a small workshop.

Plywood is often a popular material for building DIY miter saw stands, but working with plywood has some drawbacks. For example, it can be tough to maneuver plywood sheets in a small workshop.

If you have a small car, it might be challenging to transport the plywood back to your shop. Many big box home improvement stores provide free wood cutting; however, the cuts are frequently not precise.

Instead of plywood, this mobile miter saw stand was made almost entirely with 1×4 lumber and only two small sheets of plywood. In my experience, it’s easier for do-it-yourselfers with small shops to work with these materials.

Another note about the wood. I planned to paint the base of the stand to give it a store-bought appearance. So, rather than using raw wood, I tried something new and used pre-primed lumber.

I figured using pre-primed lumber would save time and steps because the sanding and priming were already done. It was a good idea, but it didn’t work out that way.

The primer was rough and bumpy in some areas, and I had to sand to make it smooth. Also, when I got the boards home, I noticed that they were made in two different countries and that the edges were finished differently. Some of the boards had square edges, while others had rounded edges similar to a 2×4. To my eye, attaching square edges to rounded edges would have made this piece look unprofessional.

The most significant thing I noticed was that the wood itself seemed weaker than the pine that I usually buy for my projects. While driving screws, some of the pieces split, while others simply broke in half. I doubt I’ll use primed wood again to build a project like this.

Miter Saw Dust Collection

A miter saw is a useful tool, but it produces a lot of sawdust. One way to control the dust is with a miter saw dust hood.

A miter saw hood is a simple device that sits behind a miter saw and captures most of the dust. The hood connects to a shop vacuum or dust collection system and prevents the dust from spreading throughout the workshop, making your workspace quicker and easier to clean.

I made this dust hood behind the miter saw in my workshop. In the bottom of the hood is a 4″ fitting that connects to my dust collector with a flexible hose.

Step 2. Make the Bottom

Cut 6 pieces of 1×4 and drill holes in each end. 2 of these pieces will be used in this step and 4 pieces will be used in Step 4.

Apply glue to the ends of the pieces from Step 1, position on 2 of the pieces from this step and clamp. Attach using screws.

Step 3. Attach the Bottom

Apply glue to the edges of the bottom and clamp to the sides. Attach using screws. Also, drill several countersink holes in the bottom rails of the sides and attach using wood screws.

Step 4. Attach the Rails

Apply glue to the rails (from Step 2), position on the sides and clamp. Attach using screws.

Step 5. Make the Top Supports

Cut 4 pieces of 1×4. Measure in at the top and bottom. Connect the marks and cut an angle with a DIY circular saw crosscut guide. Then drill holes in each support. Be sure to make 2 right supports and 2 left supports. This way the holes will face inward rather than outward.

Attach the top supports to the base with wood screws and screws.

Step 6. Make the Wing Frames

Cut 4 long pieces of 1×4. Cut 4 short pieces of 1×4 and drill holes in each end. Apply glue to the ends of 2 short pieces, position on the long pieces and clamp. Attach using screws. Repeat for the other frame.

Cut 4 pieces of 1×2. Drill several countersink holes on the edge of each piece. Also, drill 3 holes in the side of each piece.

Apply glue to the edge, position on the inside of the wing frame and clamp. Attach using wood screws. Repeat for the other pieces.

Step 7. Paint (Optional)

I painted the base and wings of the miter saw cart because I wanted it to look like a store-bought piece of workshop furniture. I lightly sanded all of the parts and sprayed a coat of primer. When the primer was dry I sprayed the stand with two coats of “Casual Gray” Behr High Gloss paint.

Step 8. Make the Top

Cut a ¾” piece of plywood. Position the top on the stand and clamp. Attach the top supports using screws.

Measure in on the front and back and drill several countersink holes. Attach using wood screws.

How to Build a DIY Mobile Miter Saw Station | With Dust Collection and T Tracks!

Step 9. Make the Arm Anchors

Cut 8 pieces of 1×4. Measure in on each corner and use a compass to draw an arc. I used a disc sander to round off the corners.

Next, I used a ⅞” Forstner bit and a ¼” Forstner bit to drill holes that will connect the anchors to the arms.

Step 10. Make the Lower Arms

Cut 4 pieces of 1×3. Measure in on each corner and use a compass to draw an arc. I used a disc sander to round off the corners.

Next, I used a ⅞” Forstner bit and a ¼” Forstner bit to drill holes on the opposite side of each arm. The holes will connect the arms to the anchors.

Step 11. Make the Upper Arms

Cut 2 pieces of 1×3. Cut 4 pieces of 1×3. I used a ¼” Forstner bit to drill through the end of each piece.

Apply glue to 2 small pieces, position on the end of an arm (I used a spare bolt to align the holes) and clamp. Repeat for the other arm.

When the glue is dry measure in on each corner and use a compass to draw an arc. I used a disc sander to round off the corners.

Next, I marked the location for the arm locks on the top and bottom side of the arm. I’ll use these marks to attach the arm locks in Step 13.

Step 12. Make the Arm Locks

Cut 4 pieces of 1×2. The locks will be held in place with screws. First I drilled countersink holes in the center of each piece. Then I drilled a hole inside the countersink hole. This will allow the lock to spin freely on the screw. Measure in on each corner and use a compass to draw an arc. I used a disc sander to round off the corners.

Step 13. Assemble the Arms

Layout 2 lower arms and 1 upper arm. Insert a bolt with a washer into the middle hole in the arms. Then place a washer on both sides of the upper arm. Attach using another washer and a lock nut. Tighten the nut but leave it loose enough so the arms can move freely. Repeat for the other set of arms.

Attach 2 anchors to the upper arm. Insert a bolt with a washer into the upper arm hole and attach using another washer and a lock nut. Tighten the nut but leave it loose enough so the arms can move freely. Repeat for the other set of arms.

Attach 1 anchor to each lower arm. Insert a bolt with a washer (I needed to use three washers to prevent the nut from protruding beyond the back of the assembly) into the lower arm hole and attach using another washer and a lock nut. Tighten the nut but leave it loose enough so the arms can move freely. Repeat for the remaining anchors.

Attach the arm locks using wood screws.

Step 14. Attach the Lower Anchors

Position an arm assembly on the base and flip the upper arms in between the lower arms. I inserted a few playing cards in between the upper arms and lower arms to act as spacers. This will ensure the arms will move freely later on.

Center the assembly on the base and clamp in position. Attach the anchors using screws.

Next, I temporarily removed the arms. I need to flip the base in the next step and this will prevent the arms from flopping around.

Step 15. Attach the Casters

Flip the base and attach one caster to each corner.

Step 16. Attach the Folding Wings

Center a wing on each side of the top. Attach the wing to the top with a 12” piano hinge.

Step 17. Attach the Upper Anchors

Reattach the arms to the lower anchors. Center the upper anchors on the wing and clamp in position. Attach using screws.

mobile, miter, stand, plans

I attached 1 piece of 1×2 to the back of the upper anchor with a wood screw. This will help push the arm in the upright position when the wing is closed.

Step 18. Attach the Miter Saw

Center the miter saw from side to side and front to back. Drill holes in the top to match the mounting holes in the miter saw. Attach using bolts, washers, and nuts.

Step 19. Make the Wing Tables

The dimension of each miter saw is a little different. The length of the wing tables is based on the distance from the end of the wing table to the side of the miter saw base. This means the length of the wing tables will be different for each saw.

To determine the length of your wing table raise the wings and measure from the end of the wing to the side of the miter saw. Then, subtract 1″ from this measurement.

Use a circular saw or table saw to rip two pieces of ¾” plywood to 8” and cut to your dimension.

Cut 4 pieces of 1×6. These pieces need to fit inside the wing frames. They should be snug, but not too tight. Otherwise, it will be difficult to install the wing tables in the wing frames. Adjust to fit if necessary.

Position 2 pieces from the end of the wing tabletop and set in from each edge. Clamp in position, drill several countersink holes and attach using wood screws.

The wing table supports are based on the length of the wing table. Measure from the side of the wing table that will extend over the base of the stand to the outside edge of the 1×6. Then, subtract a ¼” from this measurement.

Cut 4 pieces of 1×2 to your dimension. I placed the supports on the underside of the wing tables. I used some scrap 1x material as spacers between the 1×6s and the 1×2s. Drill several countersink holes in the supports and attach using wood screws.

Step 20. Install the Wing Tables

Insert a wing table into the wing. Place a straight edge (I used a 6′ level) across the miter saw table and adjust the wing until it’s level with the miter saw table. Clamp the wing table to the wing and attach using washers and lag screws. Repeat for the other wing table.

Step 21. Attach the T-Track

Cut 2 pieces of T-Track to match the length of the wing table. Position on the back of the wing table and clamp. Attach using wood screws.

Step 22. Make the Stop

Cut 1 piece of 1×3 and drill a hole in the center. Insert a bolt, washer and wing nut. Slide the assembly onto the t-track.

Cut 1 piece of 1×2 and drill two holes on one end. Place on the wing table and center on the back of the stop. Clamp in position, flip over and attach using screws.

I sanded a bevel on the bottom edge of the stop. This will prevent sawdust from building up in front of the stop.

Final Thoughts

A mobile miter saw stand increases your work area, has Smart features to save time and improve accuracy. It’s portable and saves space in a small workshop, garage or shed.

Get the free plan (including the detailed instructions and measurements) now!

Thank you for stopping by. If you found this information helpful, would you please pin it to ? Other DIYers would appreciate it and I would too! Thank you – Scott

DIY Mobile Miter Saw Stand (Plans Video)

Make the most of your workshop space with this clever DIY miter saw stand. It folds and rolls, and it’s easy to build with these free step-by-step plans. If you’re looking for a solution to make your miter saw mobile and save on workshop space, look no further than this DIY miter saw stand. The folding design can be set up or taken down in just a few seconds, and it fits most popular miter saws. It may look complex, but it’s easy to make with just a few simple tools. So what are you waiting for? Grab the free step-by-step plan, which includes all of the measurements, easy-to-follow instructions, and detailed diagrams, and get started now! This tutorial contains affiliate links to supplies and tools. Purchases made using these links help support the Saws on Skates website and allows me to share more projects and tips with you. There is no cost to you for using these links. Visit my site policies for more information.

What is a Mobile Miter Saw Stand?

This mobile miter saw stand is loaded with Smart features to save space, time, and improve your accuracy.

The collapsible support wings increase the size of your miter saw’s small footprint to nearly 91 inches, providing you with plenty of space when it’s time to tackle a big job. The wings also fold for storage, making it ideal for any small workshop, garage, or shed.

Four casters mounted at the bottom allow you to pull the miter saw cart out when it’s time to work and push it back when you’re done.

My buddy told me the folding arms of this miter saw station reminds him of a robot. So I’m nicknaming this project the “Miter-Bot”!

NOTE: The arms could be a pinch point. Please use caution when folding the support wings.

The folding support wings also have a stop for repeatable cuts. Using the stop saves time and improves the accuracy of your DIY projects.

What Tools Do You Need?

I wanted to make sure that everyone, from beginners to advanced DIYers, could build this stand with only a few basic woodworking tools. You’ll see in the video that I used a few tools to simplify the process. In many situations, you may use another type of tool or simply skip that step.

For example, in Step 9, I rounded the corners to give the arm anchors a finished look. I used a disc sander to round the corners, but I understand not every DIYer has one. I think these pieces are too small to cut with a jigsaw, but you could use a palm sander to round the corners instead. Or you could just leave the corners square.

Nearly all of the cuts for this project can be made with a miter saw. The exception is the plywood top, which will need to be cut with either a circular saw or a table saw.

The parts of this mobile stand were joined with hole joinery. You may use any hole jig that you have. I used my Kreg Jig K5, which was discontinued since I built this project.

What Wood Should You Use?

As I mentioned earlier, I wanted this project to be easy to build for DIYers of all skill levels. I also wanted it to be easy to make for DIYers with a small workshop.

Plywood is often a popular material for building DIY miter saw stands, but working with plywood has some drawbacks. For example, it can be tough to maneuver plywood sheets in a small workshop.

If you have a small car, it might be challenging to transport the plywood back to your shop. Many big box home improvement stores provide free wood cutting; however, the cuts are frequently not precise.

Instead of plywood, this mobile miter saw stand was made almost entirely with 1×4 lumber and only two small sheets of plywood. In my experience, it’s easier for do-it-yourselfers with small shops to work with these materials.

Another note about the wood. I planned to paint the base of the stand to give it a store-bought appearance. So, rather than using raw wood, I tried something new and used pre-primed lumber.

I figured using pre-primed lumber would save time and steps because the sanding and priming were already done. It was a good idea, but it didn’t work out that way.

The primer was rough and bumpy in some areas, and I had to sand to make it smooth. Also, when I got the boards home, I noticed that they were made in two different countries and that the edges were finished differently. Some of the boards had square edges, while others had rounded edges similar to a 2×4. To my eye, attaching square edges to rounded edges would have made this piece look unprofessional.

The most significant thing I noticed was that the wood itself seemed weaker than the pine that I usually buy for my projects. While driving screws, some of the pieces split, while others simply broke in half. I doubt I’ll use primed wood again to build a project like this.

Miter Saw Dust Collection

A miter saw is a useful tool, but it produces a lot of sawdust. One way to control the dust is with a miter saw dust hood.

A miter saw hood is a simple device that sits behind a miter saw and captures most of the dust. The hood connects to a shop vacuum or dust collection system and prevents the dust from spreading throughout the workshop, making your workspace quicker and easier to clean.

I made this dust hood behind the miter saw in my workshop. In the bottom of the hood is a 4″ fitting that connects to my dust collector with a flexible hose.

Step 2. Make the Bottom

Cut 6 pieces of 1×4 and drill holes in each end. 2 of these pieces will be used in this step and 4 pieces will be used in Step 4.

Apply glue to the ends of the pieces from Step 1, position on 2 of the pieces from this step and clamp. Attach using screws.

Step 3. Attach the Bottom

Apply glue to the edges of the bottom and clamp to the sides. Attach using screws. Also, drill several countersink holes in the bottom rails of the sides and attach using wood screws.

Step 4. Attach the Rails

Apply glue to the rails (from Step 2), position on the sides and clamp. Attach using screws.

mobile, miter, stand, plans

Step 5. Make the Top Supports

Cut 4 pieces of 1×4. Measure in at the top and bottom. Connect the marks and cut an angle with a DIY circular saw crosscut guide. Then drill holes in each support. Be sure to make 2 right supports and 2 left supports. This way the holes will face inward rather than outward.

Attach the top supports to the base with wood screws and screws.

Step 6. Make the Wing Frames

Cut 4 long pieces of 1×4. Cut 4 short pieces of 1×4 and drill holes in each end. Apply glue to the ends of 2 short pieces, position on the long pieces and clamp. Attach using screws. Repeat for the other frame.

Cut 4 pieces of 1×2. Drill several countersink holes on the edge of each piece. Also, drill 3 holes in the side of each piece.

Apply glue to the edge, position on the inside of the wing frame and clamp. Attach using wood screws. Repeat for the other pieces.

Step 7. Paint (Optional)

I painted the base and wings of the miter saw cart because I wanted it to look like a store-bought piece of workshop furniture. I lightly sanded all of the parts and sprayed a coat of primer. When the primer was dry I sprayed the stand with two coats of “Casual Gray” Behr High Gloss paint.

Step 8. Make the Top

Cut a ¾” piece of plywood. Position the top on the stand and clamp. Attach the top supports using screws.

Measure in on the front and back and drill several countersink holes. Attach using wood screws.

Step 9. Make the Arm Anchors

Cut 8 pieces of 1×4. Measure in on each corner and use a compass to draw an arc. I used a disc sander to round off the corners.

Next, I used a ⅞” Forstner bit and a ¼” Forstner bit to drill holes that will connect the anchors to the arms.

Step 10. Make the Lower Arms

Cut 4 pieces of 1×3. Measure in on each corner and use a compass to draw an arc. I used a disc sander to round off the corners.

Next, I used a ⅞” Forstner bit and a ¼” Forstner bit to drill holes on the opposite side of each arm. The holes will connect the arms to the anchors.

Step 11. Make the Upper Arms

Cut 2 pieces of 1×3. Cut 4 pieces of 1×3. I used a ¼” Forstner bit to drill through the end of each piece.

Apply glue to 2 small pieces, position on the end of an arm (I used a spare bolt to align the holes) and clamp. Repeat for the other arm.

When the glue is dry measure in on each corner and use a compass to draw an arc. I used a disc sander to round off the corners.

Next, I marked the location for the arm locks on the top and bottom side of the arm. I’ll use these marks to attach the arm locks in Step 13.

Step 12. Make the Arm Locks

Cut 4 pieces of 1×2. The locks will be held in place with screws. First I drilled countersink holes in the center of each piece. Then I drilled a hole inside the countersink hole. This will allow the lock to spin freely on the screw. Measure in on each corner and use a compass to draw an arc. I used a disc sander to round off the corners.

Step 13. Assemble the Arms

Layout 2 lower arms and 1 upper arm. Insert a bolt with a washer into the middle hole in the arms. Then place a washer on both sides of the upper arm. Attach using another washer and a lock nut. Tighten the nut but leave it loose enough so the arms can move freely. Repeat for the other set of arms.

mobile, miter, stand, plans

Attach 2 anchors to the upper arm. Insert a bolt with a washer into the upper arm hole and attach using another washer and a lock nut. Tighten the nut but leave it loose enough so the arms can move freely. Repeat for the other set of arms.

Attach 1 anchor to each lower arm. Insert a bolt with a washer (I needed to use three washers to prevent the nut from protruding beyond the back of the assembly) into the lower arm hole and attach using another washer and a lock nut. Tighten the nut but leave it loose enough so the arms can move freely. Repeat for the remaining anchors.

Attach the arm locks using wood screws.

Step 14. Attach the Lower Anchors

Position an arm assembly on the base and flip the upper arms in between the lower arms. I inserted a few playing cards in between the upper arms and lower arms to act as spacers. This will ensure the arms will move freely later on.

Center the assembly on the base and clamp in position. Attach the anchors using screws.

Next, I temporarily removed the arms. I need to flip the base in the next step and this will prevent the arms from flopping around.

Step 15. Attach the Casters

Flip the base and attach one caster to each corner.

Step 16. Attach the Folding Wings

Center a wing on each side of the top. Attach the wing to the top with a 12” piano hinge.

Step 17. Attach the Upper Anchors

Reattach the arms to the lower anchors. Center the upper anchors on the wing and clamp in position. Attach using screws.

I attached 1 piece of 1×2 to the back of the upper anchor with a wood screw. This will help push the arm in the upright position when the wing is closed.

Step 18. Attach the Miter Saw

Center the miter saw from side to side and front to back. Drill holes in the top to match the mounting holes in the miter saw. Attach using bolts, washers, and nuts.

Step 19. Make the Wing Tables

The dimension of each miter saw is a little different. The length of the wing tables is based on the distance from the end of the wing table to the side of the miter saw base. This means the length of the wing tables will be different for each saw.

To determine the length of your wing table raise the wings and measure from the end of the wing to the side of the miter saw. Then, subtract 1″ from this measurement.

Use a circular saw or table saw to rip two pieces of ¾” plywood to 8” and cut to your dimension.

Cut 4 pieces of 1×6. These pieces need to fit inside the wing frames. They should be snug, but not too tight. Otherwise, it will be difficult to install the wing tables in the wing frames. Adjust to fit if necessary.

Position 2 pieces from the end of the wing tabletop and set in from each edge. Clamp in position, drill several countersink holes and attach using wood screws.

The wing table supports are based on the length of the wing table. Measure from the side of the wing table that will extend over the base of the stand to the outside edge of the 1×6. Then, subtract a ¼” from this measurement.

Cut 4 pieces of 1×2 to your dimension. I placed the supports on the underside of the wing tables. I used some scrap 1x material as spacers between the 1×6s and the 1×2s. Drill several countersink holes in the supports and attach using wood screws.

Step 20. Install the Wing Tables

Insert a wing table into the wing. Place a straight edge (I used a 6′ level) across the miter saw table and adjust the wing until it’s level with the miter saw table. Clamp the wing table to the wing and attach using washers and lag screws. Repeat for the other wing table.

Step 21. Attach the T-Track

Cut 2 pieces of T-Track to match the length of the wing table. Position on the back of the wing table and clamp. Attach using wood screws.

Step 22. Make the Stop

Cut 1 piece of 1×3 and drill a hole in the center. Insert a bolt, washer and wing nut. Slide the assembly onto the t-track.

Cut 1 piece of 1×2 and drill two holes on one end. Place on the wing table and center on the back of the stop. Clamp in position, flip over and attach using screws.

I sanded a bevel on the bottom edge of the stop. This will prevent sawdust from building up in front of the stop.

Final Thoughts

A mobile miter saw stand increases your work area, has Smart features to save time and improve accuracy. It’s portable and saves space in a small workshop, garage or shed.

Get the free plan (including the detailed instructions and measurements) now!

Thank you for stopping by. If you found this information helpful, would you please pin it to ? Other DIYers would appreciate it and I would too! Thank you – Scott

How we started CutHub

Dave Jessop has been in the construction industry for the past 25 years and is currently a general contractor for residential and commercial buildings in Montana, Utah, and North Dakota. Dave first cut his teeth in the construction industry as a framer on large housing developments in Utah and California. Even as a young framer Dave was obsessed with quality, safety, and speed so he constantly looked for ways to shave minutes without sacrificing quality or safety.

As a result, Dave’s framing crews quickly gained a reputation for not only being best but the fastest. His obsession with quality and speed eventually led him to develop the CutHub stand.

Traditional Miter Saw Stands Just Don’t Cut It

For years Dave labored over how he could have his employees make fast and safe cuts with the skill saw, which is one of the most dangerous yet important tools on any construction site. He continually trained his employees on the importance of safety when using the skill saw, but the skill saw is one of those tools that will eventually get you. As a result, Dave has seen his fair share of missing fingers, stitches, and way too many close calls.

Dave’s first solution was to build a cut station out of wood on his job sites in order to improve the quality of cuts, increase speed, and reduce the danger of the saw. His wooden cut stations built on top of saw horses solved the issue of clean and safe cuts but they only lasted for that particular job. Either the homemade cut station was too beat up or too heavy to be worth hauling to the next job site. Dave searched everywhere for a solution and reasoned that since he wasn’t the only one dealing with the problem there must be a solution to such a common problem. After years of coming up on the short end of products that did a little but not enough or products that simply weren’t strong enough to withstand the treatment of a construction site, Dave took matters into his own hands by designing and creating the CutHub work station with the help of Ansync labs in Sacramento, California.

The Ideal Industrial Miter Saw Stand for the Construction Industry

Dave’s CutHub addresses literally every cutting issue on a job site. The CutHub is incredibly sturdy and strong enough to handle the rigors of any construction site yet it is light enough to be handled by one person for setup and take-down. Because of the size and easy setup/take-down Dave now has a a cut station that is mobile and tough enough to go with him from job to job. The CutHub, finally puts the stand on the same level as the saw which means no more dealing with binding or dropped boards. The CutHub incorporates a unique state-of-the-art patent pending measuring system using a sliding brake stop that does away with the need for measuring and marking before each cut.

Simply put, the CutHub has dramatically improved the quality and safety of Dave’s job sites. What took months of training for an employee to be able to make safe and accurate cuts now can be done with only minutes of training. The CutHub has created the equivalent of journeyman cutters out of rookie employees on the first day of the job.

A construction site without a CutHub will become a thing of the past!

Journeyman vs Rookie Cutting Challenge

The CutHub is so easy to use that even someone without any experience in power tools can be making fast, safe and accurate cuts within minutes.

mobile, miter, stand, plans

On a recent challenge using the CutHub, Dave cut a 2×4 into 14 and 3/8ths blocks using the industry standard of measuring tape, square, and skill saw. Dave measured, marked, and cut the board into blocks in 60 seconds. Keep in mind, Dave is a 25 year veteran in the industry.

After only two minutes of training, graphic designer Alyse who had never operated a power saw before, was able to perform the exact same task using the CutHub in less than 40 seconds! Alyse, the rookie, not only beat Dave’s time but her cuts were actually cleaner and more accurate as well.

Imagine what the CutHub miter saw stand can do for your job site:

Once you experience the ease of the CutHub you will wonder how you ever got along without it!

How we started CutHub

Dave Jessop has been in the construction industry for the past 25 years and is currently a general contractor for residential and commercial buildings in Montana, Utah, and North Dakota. Dave first cut his teeth in the construction industry as a framer on large housing developments in Utah and California. Even as a young framer Dave was obsessed with quality, safety, and speed so he constantly looked for ways to shave minutes without sacrificing quality or safety.

As a result, Dave’s framing crews quickly gained a reputation for not only being best but the fastest. His obsession with quality and speed eventually led him to develop the CutHub stand.

Traditional Miter Saw Stands Just Don’t Cut It

For years Dave labored over how he could have his employees make fast and safe cuts with the skill saw, which is one of the most dangerous yet important tools on any construction site. He continually trained his employees on the importance of safety when using the skill saw, but the skill saw is one of those tools that will eventually get you. As a result, Dave has seen his fair share of missing fingers, stitches, and way too many close calls.

Dave’s first solution was to build a cut station out of wood on his job sites in order to improve the quality of cuts, increase speed, and reduce the danger of the saw. His wooden cut stations built on top of saw horses solved the issue of clean and safe cuts but they only lasted for that particular job. Either the homemade cut station was too beat up or too heavy to be worth hauling to the next job site. Dave searched everywhere for a solution and reasoned that since he wasn’t the only one dealing with the problem there must be a solution to such a common problem. After years of coming up on the short end of products that did a little but not enough or products that simply weren’t strong enough to withstand the treatment of a construction site, Dave took matters into his own hands by designing and creating the CutHub work station with the help of Ansync labs in Sacramento, California.

The Ideal Industrial Miter Saw Stand for the Construction Industry

Dave’s CutHub addresses literally every cutting issue on a job site. The CutHub is incredibly sturdy and strong enough to handle the rigors of any construction site yet it is light enough to be handled by one person for setup and take-down. Because of the size and easy setup/take-down Dave now has a a cut station that is mobile and tough enough to go with him from job to job. The CutHub, finally puts the stand on the same level as the saw which means no more dealing with binding or dropped boards. The CutHub incorporates a unique state-of-the-art patent pending measuring system using a sliding brake stop that does away with the need for measuring and marking before each cut.

Simply put, the CutHub has dramatically improved the quality and safety of Dave’s job sites. What took months of training for an employee to be able to make safe and accurate cuts now can be done with only minutes of training. The CutHub has created the equivalent of journeyman cutters out of rookie employees on the first day of the job.

A construction site without a CutHub will become a thing of the past!

Journeyman vs Rookie Cutting Challenge

The CutHub is so easy to use that even someone without any experience in power tools can be making fast, safe and accurate cuts within minutes.

On a recent challenge using the CutHub, Dave cut a 2×4 into 14 and 3/8ths blocks using the industry standard of measuring tape, square, and skill saw. Dave measured, marked, and cut the board into blocks in 60 seconds. Keep in mind, Dave is a 25 year veteran in the industry.

After only two minutes of training, graphic designer Alyse who had never operated a power saw before, was able to perform the exact same task using the CutHub in less than 40 seconds! Alyse, the rookie, not only beat Dave’s time but her cuts were actually cleaner and more accurate as well.

Imagine what the CutHub miter saw stand can do for your job site:

Once you experience the ease of the CutHub you will wonder how you ever got along without it!