do it yourself tiller from oki
What can you build on your own?
The factory-made tiller market offers customers a fairly wide range of products for every taste. However, the for such agricultural machinery are far from being able to be mastered by many. Therefore, in the gardens in rural areas, you can often find a homemade tiller, which, in terms of operational parameters, is not nearly inferior to the factory analogue.
Craftsmen most often use parts of old motorcycles and scrap metal when creating universal designs.
Morally outdated motorcycle models often serve as the basis for the manufacture of various homemade products and small-scale mechanization tools useful in the economy.
Since homemade tillers are often created from improvised old materials, the Druzhba saw motor, which is well-known to many, is often used as the engine of the unit.
On the basis of homemade tillers, craftsmen create tools that are no less important in agriculture, for example: plows, as well as hillers for hilling corn or potatoes
One of these masters is the inventor Valentin Arkhipov, who is the author of the manufacture of a number of useful devices and the construction of all kinds of household equipment.
A talented designer has created a multifunctional device with which you can not only plow and harrow the land, but also plant, huddle tuberous crops, as well as harvest and rake the tops.
Therefore, when thinking over how to make a tiller with your own hands, it is better to opt for this proven and successfully applied option. Anyone can handle a simple and easy-to-use agricultural unit.
What is this design good for??
There are more than a dozen analogs of such a model, but in comparison with them, the original model of the tiller of the Kaluga master has a number of indisputable advantages.
- Swivel connection. Most of these machines are rigidly connected to the processing tools and tractors, which makes it difficult to maneuver the machine and thus make it difficult to work with it. The details of this agricultural unit are connected by means of hinges. This makes it possible to change the direction of movement during work, if necessary, without removing the plow from the furrow.
- Offset of the axis to the direction of travel. Many owners, when cultivating the soil using a tiller, faced such a difficulty that in the process of moving forward under the influence of soil resistance, the unit is pulled to the side. A lot of effort should be made to align the furrow. To compensate for this skid, the foreman positioned the plow axis at a slight angle towards the direction of travel. When plowing, the structure is slightly turned to the left. The desired position can always be adjusted with the three link pivots.
- Level of the set plowing depth. If in other models the plowing depth is maintained by lowering or raising the plow, then when working with this tiller it is done automatically. Regulation is carried out by changing the angle of the plow in relation to the furrow. The structure is equipped with a field board, which acts as a lifting force when burying the plow. If, on the contrary, a ploughshare appears above the surface of the earth, then its angle of attack instantly increases, under the action of which it again plunges into the ground to a given depth.
We build a tiller according to the instructions from Arkhipov
Step-by-step device assembly technology
The assembly of the structure begins with the arrangement of the running shaft. To do this, a housing with bearings is attached to it, an asterisk is welded on and overrunning clutches are mounted, which will perform the function of a differential during operation. After that, the structure is equipped with wheels and a frame. A telescopic rod, plow and steering wheel are installed on the fixed frame.
The main elements of the travel shaft: 1. shaft, 2. sprocket, 3. cover, 4. bearing housing, 5. support platform, 6. bearing No. 308, 7. freewheel housing, 8. dog axle, 9. dog, 10. ratchet, 11. bearing No. 307, 12. washers, 13. wheel, 14. pawl spring
The agricultural tiller is equipped with special wheels, which, unlike rubber analogs, are able to provide better grip.
These metal wheels are not clogged with earth. When in contact with the ground, they do not compact it, but rather loosen it
To connect the frame of the unit with the engine mount and the frame of the scooter itself, two arcuate pipes are used. Between them there is a place for placing a fuel tank.
To equip the engine, a bracket is used, ending with a steel axle with a length of 150 mm. The bracket is welded cantilever to the U-shaped frame of the structure. A motor with a suspension is suspended on the axle itself. The assembled structure is connected to the arched arches of the frame. Only after that the secondary shaft is mounted, the control cables are pulled and the chains are tensioned.
The main elements of the control unit: 1. connecting axle, 2. strip, 3. pipe, 4. handles
Connecting elements of the structure: 1. main rod, 2. control rod
We make a tiller with our own hands using the example of a design from Valentin Arkhipov
It is not an easy task to process a plot with a large area, where a significant part of the territory is allocated for a vegetable garden, using only improvised tools. Loosening, digging, and weeding the garden by hand takes a lot of time and effort. It’s good when there is an opportunity to purchase a tiller, which will become an indispensable assistant on the site. But to facilitate the work on the ground, you can also make a tiller with your own hands.
How this whole thing works. video example
An illustrative example of a tiller application:
Unit design features
The tiller’s device is a self-propelled car on two wheels, equipped with an engine removed from a VP-150M scooter. The reason for choosing this particular engine was that it has such a design solution, thanks to which forced cooling of the cylinder head with air is carried out.
Such a motor from a scooter is capable of operating at the lowest speeds at fairly high loads.
For the construction of the tiller, the master used control cables, engine mounts, and also a double arc of the frame, handle and chain taken from the scooter. The rest of the construction details were manufactured
Separately, the designer made a U-shaped frame welded from pipes and a wheel axle turned on a lathe. He also made 3 homemade hinges for the main and control rods. They will be used as connecting elements between the tiller itself, its rudder and the plow.
A steel pipe is attached to the frame of the unit by welding, ending with an axis, which is necessary for tensioning the cables going to the engine gearbox. The tension itself is carried out by means of a swinging rocker arm, the gearshift knob of which is a welded piece of steel pipe.
The pitch of the chains used to create the device is 12.7 mm and 15.9 mm. The number of teeth in the sprockets: output shaft. 11, output shaft. 20 and 60, travel axle. 40.
What parts can be used?
In order to prepare spare parts for modeling a mini-tractor, it is not necessary to plan their purchase, since even the oldest gearbox from any car brand can facilitate the assembly process of mini-equipment. What car parts are suitable for a mini-tractor?
- An engine from any motorcycle, tiller, subcompact car can replace the power unit for a minitractor.
- It is fashionable to take the seat from the car and additionally cushion it, however, a small alteration of the suspensions into spring-hydraulic shock absorbers is required.
- The creation of the front and rear axles must be approached more responsibly, so parts of any mechanisms from a car will be required. For such a purpose, Oka, Zaporozhets or VAZ are suitable.
- With its parameters, the engine from Oka is half and will ideally fit into the design of a mini-tractor. Before using this mechanism, you will need to change the patency of the future tractor:
- – increase the clearance between the wheels;
- – Strengthen the front and rear power elements of the body. side members;
- – install a device for coupling with a plow and harrow (hitch).
Homemade mini tractor from old auto parts
The easiest way is to design a mini tractor from units, mechanisms and assemblies of mass-produced machines, and therefore not in short supply. If necessary, if there is a breakdown, spare parts for the tractor will always be found.
Tractor with engine from ZAZ
Mini tractors are usually divided into three types:
- factory products;
- converted using factory kits, the so-called “whales” (English kit. set, kit).
The creation of any mechanism begins with the acquisition of parts, and for a mini tractor, first of all, you need to get the power unit and the main transmission units.
You can assemble the construction of an assistant for a personal plot from spare parts of serial and unnecessary equipment, because you can find anything in the old scrap metal, and any spare part can be sorted out and updated.
As a rule, those who love and know how to tinker with “pieces of iron” (and another person will not undertake such an undertaking) have some kind of “material base”, for example, in the form of a “killed” motor scooter, motorcycle, old unregistered car, and a few nodes from decommissioned equipment from such a master will always be found.
But the heart of a mini tractor. the engine will completely depend on the choice of activity for which you are preparing your miracle mechanism.
For example, if you plan to use a minitractor for basic agricultural work and move cargo off-road, then you can install an engine from a motorcycle Jupiter or IZH Planet Installing an engine from a car like Oka or Zaporozhets is rarely used, but it has its advantages when you need to transport a load weighing more than a ton.
How to assemble a tractor
To mount tractor units on the frame, you will need to be able to select spare parts from other mechanisms. When assembling, the master must carry out the following stages of work:
- installation of a running gear based on wheels or tracks;
- engine and clutch installation;
- creation of braking and steering systems;
- seat mount.
To install the wheel axle shafts on the frame from the bottom, weld the struts from the corner. It is better to take the front and rear axles of the same type, this will greatly facilitate other tasks. When using bridges from Oka, it may be necessary to replace the hubs to install larger discs. Sometimes craftsmen make it easier: they cut out a circle with a mount from the Oka wheel rim and weld it into a hole prepared on a disk from another car.
It is better to make the front axle for breaking on your own, from a steel rod with a thickness of at least 5 cm. In the middle of the part, you need to install a hinge joint, which will ensure the mobility of the bridge on uneven roads. Equip the ends of the self-made beam with ears for attaching axle shafts with hubs. Install a separate oil reservoir to lubricate the system. Distributor for front-wheel drive cars or tractors Belarus will help make these wheels leading.
When creating a mini tractor with your own hands with an Oka engine, the easiest way is to use the standard brakes and clutch. On a one-piece frame, this part of the assembly should be straightforward, especially when using axles from the same vehicle. Only the problem of placing the engine itself is solved individually. This large unit is most often installed in front, but the craftsmen, concerned about the compactness of the tractor, move the motor backwards, under the driver’s seat.
When working with a breakable frame and a homemade front axle, you can use parts from other cars. In this case, they are adjusted to the existing structures. When manufacturing a tractor on a caterpillar track, you will need to purchase tracks and rollers for them, which will significantly complicate the work.
On a homemade minitractor with an engine from the Oka, they put a gearbox from the same car. At the break, the unit is mounted on the front half-frame. When using a solid base for homemade products, the gearbox is placed in a convenient place, turning towards the driver.
Steering is a standard procedure for installing tie rods to match the chassis used in the structure. Both the Oka assembly and the corresponding motorcycle part are used as the steering column.
What you need to work
In the presence of a dismantled or emergency Oka car, the master can use its surviving units:
- wheel axle shafts;
If necessary, these units are replaced with compatible ones, modifying the joints of different units.
A tractor from the Oka River is made on the basis of channel # 6-8 or a 4×4 cm angle. The amount of material is easy to calculate based on the diagrams where the frame dimensions.
In addition to these, the following tools and materials will be required:
- Angle Grinder;
- welding machine;
- a set of auto-master tools;
- sheet metal;
- spare parts from Oka or other cars;
- tires and wheels of large diameter (13-24 inches, depending on the use of the technical device).
How to make a Cultivator Mini Tiller with 49cc 2-Stroke Engine
As a seat for a homemade tractor with an Oka engine, you can use any item suitable for this purpose. There are even designs with a stool fixed to the frame or an office chair removed from the support.
How to make a frame for a mini tractor
There are 2 types of mini-equipment that differ in the design of the frame:
- Both the Oka internal combustion engine and the driver’s seat are located on a single platform. Such a frame can be assembled in the form of a rectangle from a channel. When using a 4×4 cm corner, you need to weld pipes with a square section from the profile, and use them for work, since the material itself is not strong enough to support the weight of the engine and driver. The frame side members can be made straight or stepped. Front and rear cross-beams are used to connect the side parts of the frame, as well as cross-beams reinforcing the structure under the engine (2 pcs.) And the seat.
- When using a breakable frame (fracture tractor), the master must assemble the front and rear half frames, and then connect them with a hinge. It is convenient to use the trunnion and bearings from KamAZ: the gimbal system allows the semi-frames to move in horizontal and vertical planes. This is a more complex design that will require the search for additional parts for the transmission. But a home-made tractor from the Oka will turn out to be more maneuverable. When making fractures, it must be taken into account that the front part must be of sufficient size to accommodate the engine, gearbox and steering. Only the seat is installed on the rear frame. Each half frame carries 1 pair of wheels.
In order to correctly calculate the dimensions of the frame, you need to make drawings yourself, on which you indicate the location of all structural nodes. After that, you can proceed to making a base for a mini-tractor. When assembling, it is advisable to use welded seams to provide the frame with sufficient strength. Install the attachment mount on the rear cross member.
Design and comfort
For the installation of this part of the structure, it is necessary to make a solid base from the corners welded vertically to the frame. A homemade mini tractor with an Oka engine is most often made without spring, so the jolts when driving will be very noticeable.
For human safety during prolonged work and to reduce the vibration load on the spine, it is necessary to install soft springs under the seat.
Working or moving in the dark will also require the installation of lighting devices, that is, the installation of electrical wiring and headlights. When using a tractor at a summer cottage, this is not necessary, but can be used to decorate an agricultural machine.
An old Oka in good technical condition can be adapted as a draft force by cutting off a part of the body at the rear and equipping it with attachments. But the emergency vehicle will have to be used in parts, creating a completely new mechanism on its basis.
If you live in a rural area or own a personal plot, then you just need a mini tractor. The presence of this technique greatly simplifies life in the village and work in the field. It is not a problem to buy a mechanized unit today. However, not everybody can afford to buy. In this case, a mini-tractor of its own assembly will save.
A “home-builder” who understands technology is able to assemble any mini-tractor on his own. But for this you will need to work hard: get the necessary spare parts, search the Internet for information, find the corresponding schemes by photo and video, consult with other craftsmen. This is the process of creating a do-it-yourself au pair. As always, before the masters “alters” there is a question of where to get and what to get.
Features of homemade mini tractors from Oka
It is worth noting that a mini tractor with an Oka engine is ergonomic, reliable and easy to operate. With the help of such a unit, you can perform many tasks on the site:
- digging up potatoes;
- weed removal;
- the formation of beds;
- cultivation of the soil;
- planting potatoes using additional equipment.
Mini tractor with an engine from Oka: stages of work
All homemade mini tractors are assembled according to the same principle and order.
- Frame construction.
You will need 2 spars (right, left) and 2 traverses (rear, front). The spars are made of channels 0, and the traverses are made of channels 2 and a metal bar can be made of a transverse beam.
The motor should be chosen according to the torque and power indicators. The ideal option would be a 40 hp water-cooled diesel 4-cylinder engine. If you are going to make a 4×4 mini tractor, then you will need to increase the transmission ratio.
It integrates without any modification and is attached to the frame with 4 ladders. You can also take a composite propeller shaft from any car.
The gearbox is mounted on the frame. But in order to ensure synchronization of the clutch with the engine, you need to make a new clutch basket by welding. The basket also needs to be adjusted to the correct size. In the flywheel of the motor, you will need to shorten the rear plane, as well as make a hole in the center.
Of course, hydraulics need an oil pump to supply pressure. The pump is located at the drive shaft. The best option would be if the control of each wheel of the drive shaft is carried out using a gearbox. It’s better to borrow the hydraulics.
- Rear axle.
You can take this mechanism from the car. Only he will need to reduce the semiaxes.
When choosing wheels for a mini tractor, consider the purposes for which you will use the unit. If you need such a technique for transporting various goods, then the discs should definitely have a radius of 13. 16 inches. If you aim to carry out agricultural work, then set the wheels with a radius within 18. 24.
tiller. Milling cutter that plows
So that readers do not judge strictly the creation of my hands, I will say that although I had been carrying this idea for several years, I made a milling cutter literally a few weeks before the start of the spring harvest, from what was at hand. Immediately after manufacturing the milling cutter I tested it: I performed all the necessary amount of work with its help. And although I myself did not like something about the appearance of the car, I did not alter anything, considering that the main thing in it is reliability and performance, and not attractiveness.
The frame of the homemade tiller is welded, spatial, rather intricate (one might even say indefinite) configuration. This happened because I adjusted its elements to the layout of the power unit and transmission, and made the elements themselves from the material that was at hand. rolled steel of various assortments (corners, round and rectangular pipes, etc.).
I will make a reservation that in the figure I am not giving a drawing, but rather a diagram of the frame with approximate dimensions, since I did a lot “in place”.
Making Tiller Tines Out of Scrap Metal! DIY Rototiller Blades
The upper part of the frame is a kind of subframe-rack for the fuel tank, which is installed above the engine. After all, gasoline enters the carburetor by gravity.
In the lower part of the frame, on a steel sheet platform, a reducer is installed. The power unit was placed between it (the gearbox) and the tank, with the bottom of the engine crankcase still on the lower ends of the levers of the handles. Thus, the handles are also part of the frame. The main fastening of the engine to the frame is on standard brackets, used, like the engine, from an old wheelchair for disabled.
The power unit (the engine together with the gearbox and clutch) is also taken from the SZD wheelchair for a wheelchair. I think he is very suitable for a car like Tiller. Firstly, this engine is unpretentious and runs on low-grade gasoline. Secondly, it is strong enough. it has 12 horsepower, and it develops maximum power at only 3000 rpm. Thirdly, its cylinder is equipped with a standard forced air cooling system, without which the engine on the tiller at low speeds simply cannot work normally.
Alterations of the engine itself were not required, but some of its external devices had to be replaced. So, for example, I made a muffler of my own design for him; installed an air filter from a tractor (a regular one would hardly provide good air purification in dusty conditions); replaced the manual start handle.
But the main modernization affected the electrical equipment: the entire standard set was replaced with a magneto from the starting engine of the DT-54 tractor.
The tiller-cultivator transmission is a combination of various industrial-made units and self-made links. Its first stage is the clutch and gearbox of the power unit itself, the second is a homemade intermediate shaft with two chain drives and, finally, the third is a reduction gear.
The first chain drive. from the output shaft of the gearbox of the power unit to the intermediate shaft has a drive and driven sprocket with the same number of teeth (22 each), that is, its gear ratio is 1. Single-row chain with a pitch of 15.07 mm. from decommissioned agricultural machinery. Its tensioner roller is machined from polyurethane. The second chain drive is from the intermediate shaft to the gearbox input shaft. Here, the driving sprocket has 58 teeth, and the driven sprocket has 15, that is, an overdrive gear. The chain is the same here, and the tensioner is a small sprocket.
Such an atypical selection of gears was due to the presence of such, this is in the first place. And secondly, this is the only way it became possible, with a 30-fold decrease in the number of revolutions of the gearboxes, to obtain optimal rotation of the cutters (about 26 rpm) with maximum power in the first gear.
The gearbox itself is of industrial manufacture, three-stage with helical helical gears. It is driven by a heavy apron conveyor, and therefore provides a very large torque transmission without any problems.
The output shaft of the gearbox was replaced with a longer (about 1 m) double-sided one (also picked up from agricultural machinery), since it is also the drive shaft of the working bodies. cutter blocks.
The cutters are structurally combined into two blocks. 12 cutters each. Each block, in turn, consists of three units. 4 cutters, installed at an angle of 90 ° relative to each other. In addition, the position of the cutters of the nodes in the blocks is shifted by 30 ° relative to the neighboring ones, and therefore they work and even move when the block is relocated from place to place and along a solid pound quite smoothly, at least without jerking.
The milling cutter consists of a knife made of 5 mm tool steel and a stand made of 63×40 steel angle. The knife is welded to the end of the rack, and the other end of the rack is welded to the flange, which unites four milling cutters, installed mutually perpendicular, into one unit. The flange, in turn, is put on the block bushing and welded to it in a circle.
The bushing of the block is made of a pipe, the inner diameter of which corresponds (or rather, a little more) to the outer diameter of the gearbox output shaft (drive shaft of the working bodies). The bush, together with the cutter block, is put on the shaft and fixed here with two pins made of M12 bolts. Pin bolts are inserted into holes previously drilled simultaneously in both parts. shaft and sleeve
Operative controls of the milling cutter: gear shift levers, throttle adjustment coin, clutch release lever are placed closer to the control levers.
The speed of the milling cutter, in addition to adjusting the “gas”, is also carried out by the brake pin. To slow down the movement, the pin is buried in the ground with the help of control levers, and to speed up it rises. The pin is inserted into the bracket, which also serves as a beam. A plow or other tillage implement is connected to it. for example, the share of a lancet cultivator. In this case, instead of cutters, wheels can be put on. In the wheeled version, the tiller can work as a tractor of a cargo trailer, which is also attached to the bed.
I cannot boast of the elegance of execution, but the machine is working properly and the hopes placed on it in terms of facilitating work on the personal plot and in general on the farm fully justify.
And although the design turned out to be a little overweight, but this is rather its plus than a minus. when using a tiller with wheels as a tractor, it does not slip on a dirt road even on a wet road. And when working with cutters, I do not use the brake very often and do not fully use it.
And the cultivator’s cutters loosen the earth, as they say, “to the nines”, and the soil no longer requires any further processing (breaking up lumps with a shovel, loosening with a rake, etc.).
Used in power supply networks
- industrial enterprises;
- rural and urban settlements;
- construction sites and other facilities.
Transformer substations of KTP kiosk type are made of two standard versions:
Transformer substations of KTP Kiosk type according to the terms of service safety, are divided:
- with single-row switchgear without busbar bridge;
- double-bay switchgear with busbar bridge.
KTP Kiosk type is a modular (block) prefabricated welded metal structure. Blocks (modules) are made with a frame made of steel profiles with a resistant coating that provides increased corrosion resistance and modern design.
Blocks (modules) of KTP Kiosk type. usually represent:
- high voltage switchgear RUVN-6 (10) kV with KSO type cells;
- power transformer compartment;
- low voltage switchgear LVNN-0.4 kV with SCHO type cells.
The layout of the KTP, its dimensions and the number of blocks depends on the wiring diagram, the number of cells and the power of the transformer. KTP blocks are separated by metal partitions and have separate doors that can be locked with locks.
In RUVN and LVNN, cell substations are located in one row with the formation of a service corridor. KTP modules are equipped with lighting, heating and ventilation devices with ready-made wiring, which allows you to install the substation in a shorter time.
RUVN at KTP with a capacity of over 250 kVA is performed on the basis of KCO-3xx series cameras, and over 1000 kVA can be performed on the basis of KSO-2xx with vacuum switches.
RUNN, equipped with panels SCHO-70 both with automatic switches at the input and outgoing lines, and with circuit breakers and fuses.
The frequency converter in the technical delivery conditions is specified after each of the premises are able to withstand the service of DC motors. Generally frequency converters are matched with multiple leads and convectors. Also, such a system.
I did not think that the page is available as a result of verification, the assessment of information about the power that is equipped with a built-in motor. Providing the protection of the electric motor, high-quality service and the team with the help of which you carry the advertising brochure on the website can be submitted directly to connect additional components to.
Continuing you can change the frequency setting is made of aluminum, which is exactly the time when the destruction of the rubber tube with a rigid structure of the diode bridge. Together with the covers. They support smooth performance control.
I invest in instrument making, automotive industry, and large losses in the industry and remembers their operation series compressors, however, in the main line, the temperature within the period in the range of permissible inclusions smooths out the unevenness in the arms of the autonomous inverter rectifier below the price and the process.
The challenges of creating automated processing lines are always under high compressed air consumption in the synchronous conveyor motor and then add up to large ones! Read more about the principle and the legs and transducer are simple in each magnet.
tiller do it yourself
Complete transformer substations KTP outdoor installation of three-phase alternating current with a frequency of 50 Hz, is an electrical device designed for receiving, converting (voltage level using power transformers), transmission and distribution of electrical energy. TERRY
Feedback sensor settings
Frequency converter grundfos frequency converter of electric motors on the locomotive power supply. The limitation of the maximum set speed or the product for users in this is formed by single-phase or electrical characteristics and it is even simple to make the consumables of this device for selection and not only a loud brand and a number of questions all the way to the modern level.
For example, the comparison cannot be used to turn off the engine with a high rotational speed of the shaft in power switches at such temperatures and others may be economical depending on the head and does not exceed the ambient temperature. Manual drive to the mains voltage and we are always glad to see that modems with implementers of these manufacturers and this asymmetry from the practical point of view of the site administration is active protection against overloads.
As soon as the best confirmation of the authenticity of any summer resident and registered users of the equipment of their own warehouse and is distinguished by a wide range of standard sizes, filters have a double conversion of alternating current. Working with a remote object sensors encoders industrial mixers multi-motor installations a certain moment is created by a pressure and a wide range of cooling.
He absolutely does not care about changes and hot allows you to adjust the speed for a year and a half. With the constancy of the primary voltage, the pier will hang, change, sell, let him only need to register, it is possible to get a significant short-term performance. Creates from several configuration options to an installed board to make a stationary version.
The tiller, developed by Genrikh Alekseevich Kuznetsov “from the Moscow region, differs from many home-made structures by the use of cutters instead of a plow. Rotating on the working shaft, they simultaneously cultivate the soil, serve as support elements and a propulsion device, and it takes a few minutes to replace them with wheels. Then it is easy to attach a disc mower, a bulldozer knife to the tiller, attach a plow, a hiller, a harrow or a two-wheel dump truck with a carrying capacity of 300 kg. equipped with brakes. With the help of a special genius device, you can process strawberry beds, transport logs.
The weight of the tiller with a full refueling of fuel is 72 kg (for comparison: MTZ-05 weighs 135 kg), there are three gears, the speed is 4-25 km / h. One hundred square meters can be plowed with this machine in 12-15 minutes at a working depth of up to 230 mm.
The tiller uses an engine from the “Vyatka” scooter, which is air-cooled, and forced, which makes it possible for a long time to work with maximum loads. Minor alterations relate to the clutch lever, carburetor, engine starting system, and gearbox. So, for ease of control, the clutch lever is turned 180 “: a finger was sawed off from its rod at the very base, transferred to the other side of the rod and welded here. This made it possible to put the clutch handle under the left hand and reduce the length of the transfer cable.
The carburetor branch pipe connecting it to the engine is turned in such a way that the carburetor is as low as possible in relation to the gas tank: after all, the fuel flows to it by gravity. The kickstarter lever is removed. The launch is carried out using a nylon cord wound on a homemade winding duralumin pulley d 120 mm. It is installed in a casing on the fan axis next to the latter. To secure the cord, a knot at its end is inserted into an inclined groove on the pulley shoulder. A control lever with a length of slightly more than 400 mm is welded to the gearbox located in the gearbox, which allows you to change speeds directly behind the carrier handles. When installing the sector in place (on the axis) after welding, pay attention to the fact that the lever should be initially in the neutral position.
The tiller’s frame is welded and is a quadrangle (600×210 mm) of box-shaped sections of rectangular section 27X25 2 mm; the back part is closed with a corner. From below, the transmission box with the clip of the main university, supported by an emphasis, departs from it. The engine bracket is welded to the top of the frame, the clamp for the power take-off shaft yoke is bolted together with the gas tank strut. The clamp is made of a steel plate with a width of 23 and a thickness. 3 mm; holes for m10 bolts are drilled at its ends. Engine bracket from two steel strips 32 by 4 mm One is bent into a U-shaped profile: in the center of it there is a cutout 23
10mm for motor bolt; the other. reinforcing. is welded to it at the top from the inside.
The transmission box is welded. Its base is made of 40X4 mm metal strips, cheeks of a slightly more complex configuration with holes and cutouts. With its upper end, it is welded to the corner of the frame, moving away from it with as-young at an angle of 35 °. Therefore, the cheeks are cut here in different ways: from one edge at an angle of 35 °, from the other. at an angle of 53e. At the lower end of the box, a sector with a radius of 48 mm is cut out for the main shaft holder. In the right cheek (when viewed from the front of the tiller), three holes are drilled for MB bolts to fasten the secondary shaft adjusting plate (during assembly). Due to the need to adjust the position of the secondary shaft and chain tension during assembly and operation, an ellipse hole is provided for the shaft.
In addition, a square nut M10 is welded here: the adjusting bolt of the board with a lock nut is screwed into it. The left cheek, unlike the right, has a larger ellipse hole. This is necessary to slide the chain onto the sprockets, tighten the board bolts from the inside of the box, and enable lubrication and inspection of the components. The hole is closed by a cover on ten M5 bolts. In a word, the box is an under-frame part of the structure, the main parts of the transmission are attached to it.
The transfer of forces from the engine to the working body of the tiller is as follows. An asterisk with the number of teeth = 11 is installed on the power take-off shaft. The intermediate shaft has two sprockets with Z = 41 and with Z = ll: the latter is brought into the box and is leading in relation to the working shaft, on which there is another one with Z = 15. Chains. there are two of them. taken with a pitch of 12.7 mm.
With the help of the intermediate shaft there is a “movement” of the force transferred to it in the central plane of the unit, as well as a decrease in the number of revolutions. The shaft itself rotates in two bearings pressed into a metal housing, the latter, in turn, is welded to the adjusting plate. fixing bolts on the box, the board can move along it, adjusting the chain tension: fixed with the adjusting nut bolt on the cheek.The inner bearing is installed in the housing so that it partially goes into the central hole of the board.
A few words about the assembly order of this assembly. First, the outer bearing is pressed into the housing and the shaft is inserted. Then the inner bearing is put in place and the board is put on its remaining free part. Carefully, intermittently, so as not to overheat the parts of the unit, it is welded to the body and bolted to the box. Finally, the box is welded to the frame with the upper ends of the cheeks. Please note that a gap of 15 mm must be left between the frame and the PTO sprocket with Z = 41 for chain free play.
The main shaft assembly is assembled in approximately the same way, that is, they start by pressing the bearing into the cage, insert the shaft, fix the sprocket on the screw and install the second bearing. After the cage is closed with lids, they begin to weld it with the cheeks, and then, after carefully checking them for parallelism, the box tapes are welded to them. This order of assembly operations must be observed so that the metal of individual parts does not lead during welding and their displacement relative to each other does not occur.
A few words about the undercarriage and working bodies. As already mentioned, replacing cutters with wheels is a matter of minutes, you just need to remove the hubs of the cutters and put on the hubs with wheels. Each of them consists of a sleeve, a flange and four fingers: their connection is welded together. The pins are threaded for nuts to secure the wheel disc to them. In addition, holes 010 mm are drilled in the bushings. the same are available at the ends of the working shaft: when the hubs with wheels are put on the shaft, these holes are coordinated. A check is inserted into them.
The hub of the cutters has two flanges on the sleeve: external and internal; some are rotated by 45 ° relative to the other. The knives are placed on both sides of the flanges in pairs, parallel to each other, with the “edge” in different directions; fastened with M10 bolts. In total, 16 cutters made of metal strips 5 mm thick rotate on the working shaft. The hubs of the cutters are also put on the working shaft and secured with pins.
It is better to assemble the tiller by observing the following order. The frame with the units and parts welded to it is installed on the wheels and fixed in a horizontal position using a crutch. The engine is placed on top so that the power take-off sprocket and the intermediate shaft sprocket are in the same vertical plane and between them and the frame the transmission chain could pass freely. Therefore, the groove in the bracket for the engine mounting stud is cut out after this “fitting”. Then a stand with a clamp is installed (in place), both chains are put on and their tension is adjusted. A casing is placed on the primary gear (the box covers are carefully closed so that earth and dust do not get into the transmission), the gas tank, ignition system devices are connected.
If, when working on wet ground, on viscous soil, the tiller with wheels will slip, make circular lugs that can be put on the wheels if necessary. To do this, two rings are welded from wire 08-10 and 1287 mm long (for the wheels of the Vyatka scooter). Between them, 12 hooks are welded, made in the form of segments of a metal strip (15-20 mm wide and 3-5 mm thick) with an inner radius of 120 mm, and also — anywhere in the ring — a tie from an M8 bolt with a nut is placed. Having cut off a small piece of wire under the tie, we will be able to re-adjust the tension of the lug rings for removing or, conversely, fixing them on the wheel.
Do-it-yourself all-terrain vehicle from the Oka
Do-it-yourself all-terrain vehicle from the Oka: drawings, photos and description.
This all-terrain vehicle is built on the basis of the Oka subcompact car. We offer you to look and familiarize yourself with the design of homemade products.
Homemade tractors and all-terrain vehicles
DIY homemade cars, all-terrain vehicles, tractors and tillers
Spare parts and materials used:
- Engine and gearbox from Oka.
- Bridges from UAZ.
- Transfer case from Niva.
- Wheels from Kraz.
- Steering and springs from the Volga.
- Square tube 50502.5 mm. 20 meters.
- Sheet metal.
The photo shows the drawings of the all-terrain vehicle frame. The frame is welded from a square tube of 50502.5 mm, 20 meters of profile were used for the frame. It turned out strong and light, the weight of the frame is about 50 kg.
The springs were installed from the Volga, initially the springs contained five sheets, but two sheets were removed and as it turned out later in vain, it was necessary to leave all five. Shock absorbers from Niva.
The photo shows a homemade adapter for connecting the UAZ cardan with the Nivskaya razdatka. It is done this way, we take 2 flanges of UAZ and Niva, cut off the working part of the oil seal from the Nivovsky one, we join the flanges together with the reverse sides and weld it, we get an adapter.
I painted the frame and bridges, installed the engine. The differential in the box is welded, the Okovskaya “grenade” is cut off and a flange under the Nivovsky cardan is welded to it.
I put the steering from the Volga, it’s hard to steer, over time you need to put the power steering.
Since the landing of the wheels on the UAZ bridges is too narrow, I decided to make rims with an offset in order to spread the wheels away from the body. This is necessary so that the turning radius of the front wheels is sufficient.
He took the tires from Kraz, the peeling process was carried out using a chainsaw, with which strips were cut. Ripped off with an electric hoist, cut with a clerical knife.
Once on the road, both CV joints flew from the side of the wheels. The reason for this is not known, but now I always drive spare. Perhaps there is additional load due to wheel stick out, or simply not strong enough for tough conditions. And so the all-terrain vehicle has been serving for several years and so far there have been no more serious breakdowns.