Drilling holes for sockets in aerated concrete. Basic rules for installing sockets
Installation of sockets: how to install sockets in concrete and drywall
A socket is not only a mandatory functional element of the electrical wiring that serves to connect electrical devices, but also a significant interior detail.
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The trouble.free operation of the outlet, as well as its neat appearance, depends to a large extent on how competently the installation is performed, is it not so? To make the right installation, it is necessary to take into account a number of nuances that are present in this work, one of which is the correct installation of sockets.
You have never engaged in the installation of a socket and are afraid to make mistakes? We will help to deal with all the features. the article discusses in detail the varieties of installation boxes and the subtleties of installing each of them.
Attention is also paid to the installation of sockets in the frequently found types of bases. concrete, drywall, wall lined with tiles. The material is supplemented by visual photos and useful videos.
Types and characteristics of sockets
Modern sockets both in appearance and in the method of installation are significantly different from those that were placed in the houses of the Soviet era.
If earlier they were simply grinned into the wall without the possibility of replacement, today to install them and, if necessary, change the outlet, is not particularly difficult.
And all this thanks to a socket, which, in fact, is a box that reliably holds a socket in its bowels and at the same time ensures its fire safety.
The sockets are of different shapes and sizes, differ in manufacturing materials and the installation method, so before buying, you need to deal with their views.
Feaster. Installation device designed for reliable fixing of the hidden wiring electrical installation products
Regardless of whether the installation of a single or group of sockets is carried out, before their installation, the walls are carried out
When dripping into a brick or concrete wall, these mounting boxes or glasses are fixed with alabastr
Fastening the socket in the partitions and false walls of drywall is carried out using adjustable spacer legs
Almost all building materials and slab options used in the black wall sheathing are suitable for installing sockets in them
In the line of products for hidden wiring, you can find options for arranging log and timber buildings
During operation, a “loosened” mechanism is easier to pull up in a socket. With its use, the installation is installed faster and more accurately
Choosing a socket on the walls of the walls
The main selection criterion is the material of the walls in which the installation of sockets will be installed.
On this basis, there is the following classification of boxes:
- structures designed for installation in walls made of solid materials: concrete, reinforced concrete, aerated concrete, brick;
- Walls for walls from composite materials: drywall, plastic slabs, wood-piece stove, plywood and others.
In the first case, the socket is a round glass on which there are no additional elements. It is fixed in the wall using a construction solution.
In its walls or bottom there are mounting holes for supplying wiring. When installing a socket, it is enough to remove the jumpers and squeeze the plug.
Bearing workers with side docking units allow you to quickly and simply install two or more outlets at once
For installation of several rosettes located a number of sockets, you can use glasses, the side of which is the mounting mechanism. The sockets join each other using special grooves and are combined into blocks.
In the boxes for drywall there are special clamping plastic or metal legs designed to fix the elements in the hollow walls. Clamps are mounted on screws that rotate, regulate their position.
When turning the screw, the paw is raising or lowering. Rotation clockwise brings the clamping element to the wall, and fixes the glass in drywall
What form is the products manufactured?
The most widespread are the bandits of the round shape. It is very easy for them to make a hole in the wall with a variety of devices.
Round glasses can be used both for the installation of a single outlet or switch, and united them into groups, attaching to each other through the docking units.
Square boxes are not used so often, but have certain advantages. Their volume is much larger, so you can hide many wires in them.
Often they are used to install the elements of the Smart House system. There are single and group sockets of square shape, designed to install up to five outlets.
Oval boxes are also found on sale, which, as well as square, have a large internal space. They are convenient in that you can immediately connect a double outlet in them. All the products described above are mounted in the walls and are used to carry out hidden wiring.
There is another type of installation boxes that cost somewhat apart-plastic linings or differently multiboxes designed for open installation for skirting boards. They are designed for one or more outlets and usually have a square shape.
External sockets have two modifications. structures with installation to the middle of the baseboard or to the floor. Since multibateboxes are mounted on top of the baseboard, their distinctive feature is aesthetic attractiveness and original design.
The size of the installation boxes
An important parameter of the sockets is their size, which are selected based on specific installation conditions. The size fork in diameter is 60-70 mm, in depth-25-80 mm.
Standard designs have external dimensions of 45 x 68 mm, it should be borne in mind that the internal depth in this case will be 40, and the diameter is 65 mm.
With a group installation of several round sockets, one of them, having an increased depth, can serve as a distribution box in addition to its main purpose
Items of increased sizes, the depth of which is about 80 mm, it is advisable to use when there is no distribution box in the wiring, and its functions are performed by the socket itself. As for square products, then, as a rule, they have a size of 70×70 or 60×60 mm.
Material material of installation boxes
The most popular are the sockets made of non.combustible plastic. They can be installed in concrete walls and structures from composite materials.
Varieties and classification
The sockets are produced in a wide assortment, which includes a large number of models and modifications, including an in.depth version. It is difficult for a person who first encountered such products to immediately solve the problem of how to choose a socket.
Upon more careful consideration, it turns out that all types of sockets are classified according to only a few signs. according to the material, design and sizes. In addition, they differ in color scheme and design solutions that do not affect the functionality of the boxes.
The most common material for the manufacture of sockets is durable non.combustible plastic. Due to these qualities, mounting boxes can be installed in holes for sockets in drywall and even in wooden structures. They are often used in conjunction with such finishing materials as plywood, wood-cutting stove, wood-fiber slab, lining and other decors.
High.quality plastic gradually displaced metal models conducting electricity. Thanks to this, the likelihood of short circuits decreased. However, metal sockets should be very well proven in wooden houses if they are still used at such objects.
There are varieties of models that are selected by configuration and design features. Nevertheless, all types of products resemble a glass of cylindrical shape, fixed in the wall with a solution of construction gypsum or alabaster. When installing concrete, models that are not equipped with additional fasteners are used. Products with fasteners are used in softer and hollow walls, where it is required to make reliable fixation.
Some modifications of boxes for the block of sockets can be supplemented with screws and other fixing details in the form of spacers adjusted by rotors of the screws. In this case, fastening in the wall is carried out on the ongoing of the socket, due to its design features. You need to handle mounts carefully so as not to spoil the seat.
Standard dimensions of sockets and crowns
Considering the classification of mounting boxes, you should dwell in more detail on their size. Standard dimensions of the product are 68×45 mm, and deciphered as the diameter of the socket. 68, depth. 45 mm. In this regard, when marking holes under the block of mounting boxes, the distances between the centers are taken in the size of 71 mm.
For different manufacturers, the dimensions of the products differ depending on the purpose of each of them. Diameters are in the range of 60-68 mm, the maximum value is 72 mm. The depth of the socket is selected depending on the number of elements planned for installation in the internal space. Its value starts from 40 mm, the average is 60 mm, the maximum is 75-80 mm, which means an in-depth socket.
In accordance with the size of the socket, a drill and a crown for drilling holes are selected. You need to carefully select the tool under the diameter of the hole, otherwise the box simply does not fit inside. Reinforced concrete and other materials of increased strength are drilled with diamond crowns, and the distance between the sockets of 71 mm is maintained regardless of their size.
How to drill a hole under the outlet in the wall
Work by an electrician is not always assembly and repair of schemes and cable laying. To lay a fishing line for a trimmer, install sockets, hang lamps you need to make holes correctly or hollow the recess. To do this, you need to know the main types of drills and the features of their use. In this article, we will consider how to drill a hole in concrete, wooden walls and metal surfaces.
Types of power tools for drilling
In everyday life, for the main construction work, they use:
Electric screwdriver is a small device designed to wrap screws and screws into non.aged materials. They are also suitable for drilling drywall woody stove, plywood, wood and other derivatives. Suitable for drilling not too thick metal. Are wireless and wired.
The characteristics of the battery screwdrivers usually indicate not power, but the battery voltage and often, the greater it, the greater the power and torque has the device, but there are exceptions. Whereas in the characteristics of wired screwdrivers indicate the power, and they work directly from the 220V network.
The main distinguishing feature of the electric screwdriver from the drill is the presence of a ratchet (clutch of torque adjustment). A rattle in screwdrivers is a mechanism that limits the torque on the cartridge. This is necessary so as not to break the slots in the heads of screws and screws and not damage the material.
Also, in the screwdrivers, in addition to adjusting the revolutions, pressing the click-button (the stronger and deeper you press, the faster the cartridge rotates), there is a mechanical speed switch. Injecting other gear of the gearbox and reducing speed not “electrically”, namely “mechanically”.
Thus, at the lowest speed you get a greater torque, which will not work if you simply set the revolutionary revolutions on the low limit on the trigger and press the trigger very little (if your electric screwdriver is adjusted by the speed of pressing the trigger).
An ordinary unstressed drill differs from a wired electric screwdriver in that a ratchet is not installed in the drill to limit torque, there is no speed switch. The power of the drill can both 500 W. manual miniature are similar to screwdrivers, and with a capacity of 2 kW or more.
Cartridges are of two types. quick.sound and key. On electrical screwdrivers, mostly fast.fast.
The shock drill is equipped with an impact mechanism. It is based on two rubbing wheels (rates) with teeth on the adjacent sides. Can work both in simple drilling mode and in drilling mode with a blow.
The power of the blow is more determined by the axial load on the drill (the strength with which you press on the tool during drilling). The device is suitable for drilling all common materials for walls. The concrete drill slowly, it works better on brick and slag block, you will not be able to make a gap, but you can easily hang a picture, and if it turns out, then make a hole for the socket.
This video clearly shows the principle of operation of the shock drill:
A peorator is a powerful device for drilling and drilling. Can drill without a blow, with a blow, and work only in shock mode, like a jack of a hammer. If the shock drill drills and knocks slightly, then the peorator actually hollows the wall (see. How to choose the right a peorator).
In it, the blow is already formed not due to the friction of two disks with teeth, but with the help of a shock mechanism, the principle of operation of which you can see below.
One of the main features of the penetrator is the way to consolidate the equipment. drills, crowns and other nozzles.
To do this, it is not a fist cartridge in which the drill was clamped by rotating its outer clip, but the so.called rapid SDS cartridges, the development of Bosch, they come in different modifications, pay attention to in the store.
You can insert the usual equipment without a shank, from the drills, but for this, adapters are used like that is depicted below.
You cannot clearly say that it is better for home. a drill or a peorator. Probably. both. These are different tools for different types of work. How the pedorator differs from the drill
There are a lot of drills and each of them was created for certain types of work.
Spiral or screw cord. this is the most common type of drill. This name was obtained due to the characteristic form of the working part. it is made in the form of a screw, twisted grooves go along the working body. This design allows you to remove the chips from the hole during the drilling process. There are various types. for metal, concrete and wood. Differ in the screw step, sharpening angle, the presence of attacks made of carbide materials or central spike. The figure below depicts a metal for metal.
How to install sockets before plaster
In general, it is easier to install the finished plaster, however, no one prohibits the exposure to exhibit sockets before plaster. Another thing is that it is a little more complicated.
To qualitatively set the installation boxes before plastering, the presence of already exhibited plaster beacons is necessary. By substituting the rule for lighthouses, it is necessary to control so that the sockets do not protrude from the plane of the future, plastered wall. It is best to even deepen the boxes relative to the rule for 1-2 mm., then there will probably be no problem with the extending of the plaster solution by the rule.
The lumber algorithm practically does not differ from the above, the only difference is that the template is attached to the wall not close, but taking into account future layers. Controlling the plane by the rules by lighthouses, put up a template bar. Any wedges are inserted between the template and the wall. After grasping the fixing solution, the fasteners are removed or fed deeper, the sticking wires are neatly curled up in the sockets themselves.
With such a sequence of work, you need to carefully ensure that the top and bottom of the sockets do not stick out from the plane of lighthouses. To solve this problem, it is better to use a wide strip to make a pattern.
Installation of boxes for non.milking devices
Similar situations rarely happen, but they can bring many difficulties if they do not take them into account. If non.dairy outlets or switches (which are not placed in a common frame) are installed in a row, then between them it is necessary to withstand the minimum distance. Otherwise, further installation will be impossible!
As an example of such a scheme, you can take a cheap thermostat of an electric warm floor. This product does not have modularity and does not fit into a general framework with other sockets. Of course, there are thermal controllers suitable for the general framework, but they are more expensive and are attached to a certain collection of installation electrics. Therefore, if a device is used without a common frame. It is necessary to withstand the distance!
So, the vast majority of sockets, switches, thermostats and others, in a final form have a width of 86 mm. Accordingly, between the boxes for non.dairy sockets, there should be a minimum distance (along the axes) 86 mm. But this is if “in the grinding” and not for sure, and suddenly the switch turns out to be wider? Therefore, it is better to make the minimum distance between the axes of the installation boxes of 90 mm. or more.
Well, here the article came up to an end. To install sockets in concrete and other materials. it is more than enough.
Installation of sockets in the wall. basic errors and rules.
After the end of work on the marking of the routes of the electrical wiring and the installation sites of switching equipment, the stage of drilling niches for the sockets begins or as the manufacturers are correctly called. the boxes of installation round settings without a cover.
In addition to the fasteners, they play the role of fireproof protection against fire, plus provide the required level of isolation. Since the walls are considered conductive material and put sockets in them directly without these boxes.
For concrete walls, a plastic option is suitable without clamping legs.
Those that have such legs are used for drywall walls or plastic panels.
There are whole.block options for a different number of seats. from two to five.
Their main advantage is that they are not bent and are not deformed during installation. And can be used both in drywall and in a regular wall.
Well, the most scarce option today is a metal socket for wooden walls. He can be either with the bottom and without it.
With hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house, it is allowed to sink in the tree only such copies.
The depth of the socket also plays a role. It is standard and in.depth.
Standard depth 45mm. In.depth version 60mm.
If you plan, in addition to the outlet or the switch itself, also turn the wires in it (disappeared into other outlets, etc.D.), then you need to buy only in.depth.
What tools will be needed for installations of a socket in a concrete wall?
- Ordinary concrete crown with SDS-MAX shank. Provided that you have a very large house, or walls made of high.quality concrete and the corresponding peorator.
A more expensive option, but there are advantages:
1) the time of dispersing the socket, almost the same as using the SDS-Max 2 crown) the use of the SDS-PLUS light penetrator. hands get tired less, no blows 3) less noise and dust during operation
The instructions usually indicate to the diamond crusts that they are designed for wet drilling. However, as the practice of application shows, wear of the crown, even with dry work is minimal.
In addition, when water supply, slag can “knit” a crown. Crowns for drilling ordinary sockets, as a rule, should be a diameter of 68mm.
If you do not want to score the installation box into the niche, but take place for its free installation and adjustment, then use a diameter of 72mm. For the block type only these are suitable.
Some use the diameter of 65mm, after which they even manage to tightly insert into the resulting hole the outlet or the switch directly, having paved the product with his paws on the concrete wall or even drywall.
If in your house you suddenly began to knock out an RCD, one of the reasons for this may be a refusal to use the sockets, and installing sockets directly in the wall. Therefore, do not sin immediately on the cable, but first check the sockets.
PUE also speaks of the need to install the sockets:
If you leave it, then when swaying a pedorator in the process, a drill can give a wedge and break off. In addition, with diamond drilling without impact, the drill will only stroke concrete and interfere with work.
The depth can be set in advance by applying the box on the crown and noting the desired drilling distance by the marker.
When drilling, it is necessary to twist a slightly peorator from side to side. This is necessary so that the sludge comes out and does not jam the crown. At the same time, you need to be adopted, since a strong staggering also leads to the wedge.
This action greatly affects both the speed of work and the increase in the service life of the product.
If the concrete turned out to be high.strength, you began to drill and realized that it was for a long time, you can greatly facilitate your work.
To do this, on the circle started, you make several holes with a brown with 8mm. You should get something similar to the drum from the revolver.
After that, continue diamond or shock drilling. Then it should go like clockwork.
Types and sizes pr
Planting containers for electrical design are produced by a large series of models and modifications. It is difficult for an inexperienced consumer to understand this diversity. The dimensions and types of sockets are designed for different installation conditions. PR is made from durable and non.combustible plastic. PVC and polypropylene. These materials have high dielectric properties and are treated with a cutting tool. Plasticity allows you to make products of complex geometry and different colors.
The form distinguishes 4 types of plastic boxes:
Cylindrical housings are used mainly to fix the reinforcement of switches and dot rosets in them. Oval boxes are an elongated ellipse, they place several points of connection to the mains at once. Rectangular PRs are used to accommodate low.voltage reinforcement in them to connect contact connectors of the body, radio and high.tech equipment.
A separate group of sockets are block elements. These are mainly round boxes that have side ledges included in one another two boxes. This feature allows you to connect the outlet boxes among themselves into blocks from any number of elements. This solution eliminates the use of multi.partial extension cords.
Plastic glasses around the perimeter of the opening have a side. It is needed for the stop to the surface of the wall. PR are characterized by external and internal diameter. The outer size of the socket (along the side) can be 68. 71 mm. The inner diameter ranges from 60. 66 mm. For different manufacturers, the size of the sockets in concrete may vary slightly. However, all of them are designed for the standard reinforcement of sockets and switches. The standard sizes of the landing box are 60×45 mm, where the first number is the inner diameter, and the second numbers mean the depth of the glass.
Inside the box at an equal distance from each other, 2 or 4 longitudinal thickenings are made, into which small screws are screwed. After installing the socket in the concrete wall, the hats of self.tapping screws stretch through the holes of the terminal site. The screws are twisted to the stop, fixing the reinforcement inside the glass.
Along with a standard height of 45 mm, industry produces sockets with a depth of 60 to 80 mm. Wanned glasses are used as hand gearboxes. This makes it possible to place a large number of connecting components of the electrical network in one container.
Mount a group of point (single) pr at the rate that the distance between their centers will be 71 mm. In block glasses, the length of the connecting elements 5. 6 mm is taken into account.
How to install a socket in a concrete wall
Concrete foundation is one of the most strong foundations of wall fence. Vertical panels are reinforced concrete slabs. If a layer of plaster (2. 3 cm) allows you to hide the wires in your massif, then for the installation of the landing site you need to drill concrete. And for this you will need a special tool.
You should not trust the tips on how to fix the socket in the concrete wall with a drill and a drill with a winning tip, or what is even worse to do the work with a chisel and a hammer. This can be advised by those people who have never done it with their own hands. “Stubborn” concrete is only a pedarator.
Make an opening in a concrete wall for one seat without the help of a peorator can take all day with a laborious and dusty work all day. A universal power tool equipped with a crown or a special drill, in the pen mode is quite easily coping with small and deep holes. Any inhabitant of the dwelling can easily take possession. If there is no tool in everyday life, then it is rented.
You can make many holes with a drill and knock out the concrete with a chisel, but it is best to do it with a crown with diamond nozzles or winning teeth. They are equipped with sills that centering the input of the cutting nozzle into a concrete array. If the reinforced concrete wall interferes with the further passage of the peorater, then it can be cut off by the old used crown.
The level will be needed to indicate the horizontal line of the group of sockets. To apply the markup, you will need a pencil and ruler.
Determining the location of switches and outlets is regulated by the rules for installing electrical equipment (PUE). Rosettes in residential premises should be placed at a distance of at least 30 cm from the floor. For switches, this size is at least 90 cm. Handouts should not be closer to window and doorways than 10 cm. The connection points to the electric network are located at a distance of at least 50 cm from gas pipeline pipes.
The marking of the sockets on the wall is done after bringing the hidden wiring. The points of the centers of seats are combined into one fishing line for a trimmer. It is drawn with a pencil or marker under the level. In the case of installation of single sockets, the distance between points will be 71 mm. If the glasses are combined into one block, then you need to add the length of the inter.block elements, that is, the distance between the centers will be 71mm 6 mm = 77 mm. This is not a dogma. Better to independently check the dimensions with a ruler.
Varieties of holes
The shape and size of technical nests depends on the characteristics of the device that will install. Traditional sockets have a round glass, so they cut through the same hole under them. For the procedure, a drill with a crown of the required diameter is enough for the procedure.
If you need drowned points, you will have to make a square workpiece. For a block of several plugs, we recommend creating a rectangular hole. Work is easier to carry out a corner grinding. The procedure is very dusty, but less physically costly for the contractor and for equipment.
During drilling holes under the outlet, it is worth remembering that the nest for an electric point should fit into the size of a glass. 72 mm. It is better to make a large hole at once than then cut and otter the missing. Excess after work is easy to smear with putty or cement.
When choosing equipment for drilling holes under the outlet, attention is paid to the material from which the wall is made. Drill with the crown without problems cope with:
For concrete and brick partitions you need a peorator. If the wall thickness is more than 30 cm, then they take equipment with a capacity of 1 kW and with winning or diamond tips. With reinforced concrete, a professional installation is used. motorbike. Equipment for 8 kW will break through the designs of any hardness.
If you work with powerful equipment, then when drilling a hole for future sockets, a household electrical network may not withstand. The first will knock out traffic jams. When you turn on, the wiring will begin to melt. For equipment, individual points are required at 380 volts.
How to drill
Electric points are made by different methods. The choice of the method depends on the existing tools, the characteristics of the wall and the skills of the Contractor. Consider the main technologies.
Peorator and crown
It is easier to make sockets with a peorator with a special nozzle. The crown in shape resembles a glass with a diameter of 68-80 mm. The part consists of the base and the pin. To fasten the element to the equipment, a flange is included in the kit.
On the one hand, the crown is threaded for fixation, on the other. carbide cutting ends. In inexpensive models, simple cloves with sharpening one.sided. If the hole under the outlet is drilled in a solid wall, then it is better to opt for durable winning or diamond species.
Inside the crown there is a hole for fixing the drill. The detail is needed for the centering of the nozzle. The design is screwed to the base with a screw. The tool is ready for operation.
Before starting work on the surface of the partition, they note the place in which the future outlet will stand. With the help of a circul, the center of the circle is determined. A pedorator drill (according to concrete) without nozzle is sent to the point, drilled.
Screw the crown of the desired diameter to the tool. Turn on the equipment, work until the recess under a glass of an electric point. For elements of the standard type, it is enough to enter the partition at 2/3 of the height of the nozzle. During the process, it is important to make holes under the outlet without jerks, smoothly, in one movement. On average, the work takes 15-30 minutes.
The selection of products and recommendations for the installation of sockets
Wall material is the first thing to consider when choosing a socket. On this basis, existing types of products can be divided into two categories: for full.bodied walls and for thin partitions.
Full.bodied walls include the bases made of solid materials. Among them are aerated concrete, brick, concrete and reinforced concrete. For such materials, sockets are used without additional fixers. To fix the product in the wall, a construction mixture (alabaster or gypsum) is used).
Such glasses provide installation holes for wires. They are placed in the bottom or in the walls. Before installing the socket in the concrete wall, you just need to break the jumpers and squeeze out the plug to free up the hole.
In installation glasses, special openings for wires are provided
Thin partitions are made from composite materials. These include plastic slabs, drywall and plywood sheets, wood-based wood and pr. For such surfaces, mounting boxes are used, equipped with metal.mounted paws of metal or plastic. They are pressed, reliably fixing the glass in a hollow wall. The paws are held inside the box with screws that regulate their position.
For the installation of triple sockets, glasses are used, in the lateral part of which there is a special mechanism for fasteners. Products of this type can be combined into entire blocks, fastening them by groove joints by.
What are the requirements to meet the glasses under the outlet
The material from which the box is made should have a sufficient margin of strength. High.quality products can withstand the effort that is attached in order to remove the fork from the outlet. In this case, the mounting box should remain in the wall, and not pull out after it. To ensure these conditions, manufacturers equip glasses with special grooves, ribs and hooks. All these elements are located on the outside. This rule applies to glasses that are fixed in the wall by building mixtures.
Technological holes perform two functions: provide access to the wires to the outlet and enhance the degree of fixation of the box inside the wall. After installing the socket in the concrete, pulling out the glass will no longer be possible. Will have to break plastic or destroy the wall area around it.
Installation glasses must be reliably fixed inside the seats
As a material for the manufacture of most boxes, plastic is used. Several types of raw materials are used in production. There are also metal sockets for wood. But it is still worth giving preference to plastic. This material, unlike metal, has dielectric properties. In addition, the purchase of a plastic socket will cost cheaper.
Important! Before buying a glass, you need to make sure that there are ribs necessary for fixing the outlet. Manufacturers form them on the inside of the products.
Metal sockets have another drawback. From the inside they have a perfectly smooth surface. The fasteners on the outlets simply have nowhere to catch on, so electrical installation devices may fall out.
Plastic glasses should not maintain combustion. This requirement is of particular importance if it is planned to install a socket in drywall and other composite partitions. With brick and concrete walls, the risk of fire is much lower. However, a closure in the outlet can provoke a fire of wallpaper or furniture located nearby.
The place inside the socket is enough to place the required wires
Installation distances between sockets and other standards for the device of electrical installations
Before installing a socket in the wall, you need to choose the optimal place for its placement. According to the standard, the installation distance between the centers of glasses is 71 mm. This value is used in cases where it is necessary to organize several sockets at once in one place. Electric power plants belong to the category of sources with increased danger, so points for their installation are selected taking into account safety requirements.
Basic rules for placing electrical installations:
- between the gas pipe and the outlet. at least 0.5 m;
- It is advisable to install electrical installations from the side where the handle is on the door and at a height of not more than 1 m from the floor;
- In the bathroom, the installation of sockets with an indentation of at least 0.6 m from the bath, shower and washbasin is allowed to eliminate spraying;
- The distance from the floor depends on the purpose of the outlet. If the electrical installation is necessary to connect large household appliances, its installation is carried out at an altitude of 1 m from the coating. This rule applies to dishwashers and washing machines, electric stoves, refrigerators. For universal purpose outlets, 0.3 m high is enough;
When planning sockets, it is necessary to adhere to the requirements for their placement
- in the kitchen, where small equipment is located on the table, blocks of sockets for it are installed at a height of 0.1 m above the level of the working surface;
- The parameters for sockets for a wall TV in the kitchen are selected individually;
- The proper installation of the socket also provides for the standards for placing boxes horizontally. Between the outlet and the door frame should be at least 0.15 m. The same applies to the floor, corners and ceiling of the room;
- The electrical installation is mounted with an indent of at least 0.5 m from the heating radiator.
Important! It is strictly forbidden to install sockets over gas and electric slabs, as well as heating devices. The exception is the “warm floor” system. Installation of electrical installations in the premises of saunas and baths is not allowed. In addition, standards are prohibited from using walls that go outside to organize wiring and placement of sockets.
Tool for the installation of sockets: what crowns are needed for concrete and brick
The choice of crown depends on the technology of installation and the material of the walls with which you will have to work.
The crown for drilling holes is selected based on the wall material
For household purposes, several options are used:
- Carbide crowns. cutting edges are covered with attacks from winning or other solid alloys. Suitable for dry drilling in a stress way.
- Carbide-wolframic crowns-designed for work with concrete, brick, stone. Can be used to install sockets for tiles or shell.
- Diamond crowns. cutting edges are covered with diamond spraying. Suitable for drilling walls made of durable concrete in an unstressed way (wet and dry).
The shank of the crown must definitely approach the cartridge of the tool, which will be used for drilling.
The shape of the shank and type of fastening distinguish between such types of crowns:
- with hexagonal tip;
- with a trihedral shank;
- SDS Plus and SDS (suitable for most drills and domestic surveys, their diameter. 10 mm);
- SDS TOP (for semi.professional peorators, diameter. 14 mm);
- SDS Max (for professional.purpose peorators, diameter. 18 mm).
With your own hands, the next set of tools and consumables will be required to install the sockets in a concrete wall:
- Electric Peotor with a cartridge corresponding to the SDS Max or SDS Plus standard;
- BURN according to concrete (length more than 6 cm, diameter within 5-8 mm);
- a hammer and a chisel (an alternative is suitable for a steel blade for a penetrator);
- Crown for concrete of the corresponding size with a shank under the cartridge of the penetrator (SDS Max or SDS Plus);
- respirator and protective glasses;
- a container for the preparation of a gypsum mixture;
- putty knife;
- gypsum powder;
- Mixer nozzles for a drill to mix components of the solution.
note! You can start installing sockets with your own hands only after the wiring is completely organized in the room. In some cases, an additional cable is allowed to lay. However, for the formation of a stroke, an angular grinder with a diamond disk is used for its installation, which leads to the release of fine dust into the room.
The crown can be used as a nozzle for a drill or a peorator
Winner and carbide-wolframa crowns for brick and concrete sockets
The decisive factor when choosing a crown is not only the drilling method and wall material. The value of the holes, their number and budget capabilities of the buyer, is also important.
Carbide-wolframic and winning nozzles are characterized by the most affordable price. Their resource is designed for a small number of holes. Such crowns are suitable for beginners who want to perform installation work with their own hands. The diameter of the holes for the outlet must correspond to the size of the plastic glass. Given this requirement, a crown with an identical size is selected.
Fear: diameter, depth and other parameters of the products for hidden installation
Installation of sockets inside the wall. Review of standard parameters and recommended sizes when working with concrete and drywall.
A solid alloy of cobalt, tungsten and carbon is applied to the cutting edges of the winning crowns. Such an attack is durable, so the nozzle can be used for drilling brick and concrete walls in a stroke method. But it will not withstand contact with steel reinforcement.
Carbid-wolframic nozzles do a great job with drilling brick, concrete and ceramic tiles. These crowns greatly simplify the work when it is required to install the socket in the wall, which is already faced with tiles. Carbid-wolframic nozzles are designed for power tools (peorator, drill), the power of which is at least 800 watts. In this case, an unstressed way of drilling should be used.
Useful advice! When the crown falls on the reinforcement, the baptism is removed from the cutting edges. Therefore, it is advisable to have a nozzle with diamond spraying of a similar size at hand to apply it if it is required.
How to choose a diamond crown by concrete for sockets
Diamond baby, which is applied over the cutting edges of the crown, effectively copes with the drilling of solid materials such as granite, concrete, stone, reinforced concrete concrete. She is not afraid of reinforcement.
In terms of stiffness, there are three types of spraying on diamond crowns for sockets:
- “T” (solid). for working with high.mass concrete, is used at low speeds.
- “C” (medium rigidity). for drilling reinforced concrete;
- “M” (soft). for working with strong concrete.
Crowns with diamond spraying are used for dry and wet drilling. In the second case, the cutting device is periodically cooled during the operation using the liquid. Dry drilling crowns are used in domestic conditions. They are suitable for working with concrete and brick walls. In this case, an unstressed way of drilling is used using a drill or a peorator.
Drilling holes by dry drilling
Everything You Need to Know About Wall Plugs
Advantages of crowns for the dry method:
- the possibility of drilling reinforced walls;
- high speed of hole formation;
- large working resource;
- minimum dust;
- low noise exposure;
- In the process of drilling, the walls retain their integrity.
Installation of sockets
Today a logical continuation of the article is how to make a hole in the wall. We made a hole in the wall, and now we need to install the sockets. Today we will install it in a wall of aerated concrete, but the installation is similar, both in wooden and concrete and brick walls. In principle, nothing complicated, read the article. installation of sockets.
What are the teenagers, I will write a little later, and today we install the first type of sockets, those that are designed for concrete.
1) We already have a hole that we drank in this article.
2) We take the teenager try on, it should fit the hole, and it should also completely go into the wall, so that its edges are on the same level with a draft wall.
3) We have already conducted wiring, we need to get it inside the socket. To do this, we break out one of the four windows that are at the bottom of the socket.
5) Next, we need to fix it, since I have aerated concrete, then I easily screw it into a wood screw. It is advisable to fix at least two or more self.tapping screws so that the socket sits firmly. If you have a wall and brick or concrete, you can fix the divisor with plaster or alabastr. Then, when plaster and putting the walls, it will be finalized finally by the upper layer.
6) on this installation of a socket is finished so easy and simple. This is what should happen.
I think my light article was useful to you, read our construction site.