Free Portable Miter Saw Stand Plans. Portable miter saw table

Portable miter saw table

No matter how much or how little you invest in a miter saw, the quality and enjoyment of your work will depend more on your saw stand than on the miter saw itself.

A miter saw stand is more than just a place to set your saw—it’s a work station.

Manufactured stands are available that are easy to set up, transport, and store, but if you’re working at your home, in a couple hours, with 50 or 60 in material, you can make your own. In this chapter, I’ll show you how.

A serial publication of excerpts from Trim Made Simple by Gary Katz

Training techniques for apprentice carpenters and serious DIYers

(Note: Click any image to enlarge. Hit “back” button to return to article.)

Trim carpentry depends almost entirely on cutting clean tight miters at precise angles and measurements. You can cut miters in most small moldings with a miter box and hand saw, but for large profiles, especially tall baseboard and crown molding, a power miter saw is the only way to go. Because power miter saws are now so affordable, anyone with an interest in carpentry should own one. If you’re changing the moldings in your home, at the very least, consider renting one.

But there’s no need to drain your savings account for the best saw. No matter how much or how little you invest in a miter saw, the quality and enjoyment of your work will depend more on your saw stand than on the miter saw itself.

Why you need a saw stand

A miter saw stand is more than just a place to set your saw—it’s a work station. The stand must have continuous extension wings, so you can support different lengths of material. It must have a clean flat surface, with a lip for clamping material. And the ends of the extension wings should be crisp and square, so they can be used for measuring.

DIY Mobile Miter Saw Stand

Manufactured stands are available that are easy to set up, transport, and store, but if you’re working at your home, in a couple hours, with 50 or 60 in material, you can make your own. In this chapter, I’ll show you how. Along the way, I’ll demonstrate how to use a variety of finish carpentry tools.

Tools

1. Tape measure, for measuring: A stiff 1 in. x 25 ft. tape is best for finish work.
2. Cordless drill for drilling holes and driving screws.
3. Counter Sink bit, Phillips driver, square driver, for drilling counter sunk holes and driving screws.
4. Clamps for securing material while working with tools.
5. Hole Jig for cutting holes—the fastest method for precise joinery.
6. Miter saw for cutting moldings and millwork.
7. Carpenter’s Square for marking and measuring boards and trim.

Material List:

1 x 16 x 8 pine or fir or plywood board, for the base of the miter-saw stand.

1 x 12 x 8 Top pine or fir or plywood board for the top extensions wings on the miter-saw stand.

1 x 4 x 8 pine or fir supports, ripped to the exact height of your miter saw minus 3/4 in.

Measuring, cutting, and drilling

This miter saw stand (see photo, right; click to enlarge) is made from three main parts. Only one needs to be cut precisely. The base and top can be cut to any length and width, but the supports must be ripped to exactly the right height.

If the material you’re using for the top extension wings is 3/4 in. thick, then make the supports exactly the height of your miter saw table, minus 3/4 in. If you don’t have a table saw, or can’t make these rips yourself, have your local material supplier rip a piece of 1×4 or 1×6 to that width. You’ll be able to cut all the pieces needed from one 8-ft. board.

Be patient with yourself while working on the projects in this book. While building this miter saw stand remember that craftsmanship depends on the process as much as the finished product.

Step-By-Step Instructions

1. Center the saw on the base. Set the 1×16 on top of a pair of saw horses, then place the saw in the center. Measure from both ends to center the saw.
2. Use blocks to support your workpiece. Once the stand is finished, you won’t need blocks, but for now, stack up a few blocks so the 1x support board rests flat on the miter saw.
3. Cut 6 support pieces. The support pieces should be 10-12 in. long. You may have to slide the stack of blocks forward as you cut the supports.
4. Mark repetitive stop line. After cutting the first support, and before moving it from the saw, mark a pencil line at the far end on the miter saw fence.
5. Move workpiece to line and cut. After each cut, slide the board to the pencil line and make the next cut. All the supports should be exactly the same length.

Use a miter saw safely and accurately

Power miter saws are loud, sharp, and frightening. They’re dangerous if they’re not used correctly. Make precise cuts on your saw safely by following the four tips below, plus others that I’ll be including in later chapters.

1. Protect your hands. Never place your hands closer to the blade than the ends of the miter saw fence. Hold your fingers against the fence so your hand won’t move, then wrap your thumb over the work piece.
2. Protect your eyes and ears. Miter saws are loud, so always wear ear protection. Sometimes miter saws shoot out small pieces of molding at extremely high speed, so always wear eye protection, too!
3. Make precise cuts. Always make your first cut a practice cut, wide of the measurement mark. Once you’ve located the exact position of the blade on the board, use your thumb to creep the measurement mark slowly toward the saw blade.
4. Split the pencil line. With your hand locked against the miter saw fence, you can position the measurement mark precisely where the blade cuts. For the best accuracy, try to split the pencil line in half. Always let the blade stop before lifting the motor.

(In Part 2 we’ll finish up the miter saw stand and share some tips for souping up your saw.)

Please don’t try anything you see in THISisCarpentry, or anywhere else for that matter, unless you’re completely certain that you can do it safely.

35 Responses to “Make a Miter Saw Work Station: Part 1”

• Utah stair builderJune 4, 2010 Does the stand break down to carry it to job sites? It looks like a very solid stand. Thanks for the idea. Reply
• Joe June 4, 2010 nice Reply
• Ed BurtJune 5, 2010 Sweet. And if you want to take it up a few notches, Norm has plans and a DVD for a really nice, portable set-up at the New Yankee Workshop. I saw the show last week; it’s a good project. The web site is http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?9809 Thanks for all your great articles. …Ed http://www.BurtHandyman.comReply
• 3pinner June 6, 2010 I built something similar years ago to transport from job to job. I took a 3′ x 6′ sheet of plywood, mounted the saw in the center, then made the outriggers so that they were removable. Added Kreg saw stops on the outriggers. The 3 x 6 table is supported on heavy duty folding table legs. Saw and outriggers have tee nuts underneath so I can quickly bolt the beast together. It all fits in the van with room to haul materials. Reply
• wdwrkr88June 6, 2010 I think every trim carpenter worth his salt has always looked at all the miter saw stands on the market, with in the hundreds of dollars, and thought, heck, all I need is a sheet of plywood and a couple of saw horses. My own designs have evolved over the years, but I’ve yet to see the commercial stand that comes close to the portability and versatility of my shop built one. Good article! Reply
• Gary Katz June 8, 2010 While I haven’t used a stand like that on a jobsite for years–I prefer one that connects the side of my saw is an is more portable, it’s a great alternative and I know a lot of carpenters that, like I once did, carry them around in the back of their trucks or on their lumber racks. And yes, there are advantages to using saw horses and a solid stand like this on a jobsite. The reason I wrote the article is because I’m a firm believer is the necessity of having a miter saw work station with full extension wings. You can’t do good work without full extension wings, you can’t enjoy yourself, and you can’t work quickly. And this stand is, as you’ve suggested, not only a good way to start, it’s the way a lot of carpenters perfer to work. And it’s easy to build. Reply
• wdwrkr88June 13, 2010 I agree. I build the main stand at about 5′ in length, then build extension wings with folding legs that clamp or screw to the main table on either side. I can easily support a 16’piece of MDF base or casing. Also, when working on a staircase, I can lay a 6’x 12″ piece of plywood on the horses in front of the saw and I have a handy work table for laying out those pesky easing cuts. Reply
• wdwrkr88June 6, 2010 One other note, one thing that I’ve always found is that by using sawhorses and leaving them extend 12″ or so in front of the saw stand, I have a place to set a bundle of base, casing, or a long piece of handrail. Reply
• Michael June 8, 2010 “Training techniques for apprentice carpenters and serious DIYers” Does this line refer to the book itself or to this series of articles? Reply
• Gary Katz June 8, 2010 Both, actually. The department we’ve created is meant to fulfill that need, and the book I wrote for Taunton: Trim Made Simple, which we’ll be taking excerpts from to get this department started—that book is focused on the same audience and purpose—training. Gary Reply
• Charles Senf December 9, 2018 Mr. Katz: I noticed the wooden additions to the fence on your miter saw in your video on cutting crown. I understand their use in measuring. Was curious as to how they were fashioned and attached. Do you have a description posted somewhere on the vast Internet? Charles Reply
• Gary Katz December 9, 2018 Charles, Here’s a link to an old article on my original website: http://www.garymkatz.com/ToolReviews/extension_wings.htmlHere’s a link on some other ideas for making extension wings: http://www.garymkatz.com/ToolReviews/ad_e_sawstand.htmlYou might also be interested in Spencer’s approach to his mitersaw extension wings. You can find his video on the subject here: https://www.YouTube.com/insidercarpentryAnd by the way, here’s a link to one approach for running cathedral crown without using different profiles, and without ‘tipping’ the molding out of it’s designed spring angle: http://www.garymkatz.com/TrimTechniques/cutting_crown_transitions.html That should keep you busy! 🙂 Gary Reply
• Sternberg June 10, 2010 It is too low. I raised mine up to 40″ and my backaches went away. It is also going to bow in the middle over time, and need replaced unless that single 1x gets supported some how. I built a box section 8″ tall our of plywood, and 18″ front to back. It usually sets on my 4′ fold up scaffold’s second rail from the top. It is 8′ long. It has room for a drawer below the saw to hold blades and tools. It also has 36″ bottomless drawers on each end on slides, so I can slide those out and use them as supports for sticks up to about 12′ without needing any other support. The bottom of the carcase is very much skeletonized to save weight, so I can get it in and out of the truck by myself. The carcase is also glued with urea formaldehyde so the glue joint will not creep and sag. I think Mr. Katz is great, but I have seen too many people go down this road is giving us his map too. Reply
• Gary Katz June 11, 2010 This is not the stand I use on jobsites, though it’s similar to one I used to use. This is a stand I recommend for folks who work primarily in their garage/home shop. It’s light enough to move alone, and suits most purposes. In part 2 of this story, you’ll see that it also has a rudimentary repetitive stop. I included this stand in the Trim Made Simple book, published by Taunton a year ago, because I believe that anyone who want to learn how to do nice finish work, and anyone who wants to really enjoy the process, needs to have a stand with continuous wings. This is a first step for any serious carpenter. Today I use a portable fold-up stand and have for over twenty years, which is much more elaborate and more difficult to build, but it takes up far less space and is easier to carry. We’ll soon be publishing a story by another carpenter, Larmar Horton, who built a cracker-jack portable miter saw stand, all from wood. Look for that story in a couple more weeks. Gary Reply
• jack wilson June 11, 2010 I saw Gary’s road show today and the stand he used was much simpler and, (it looked to me) much more portable. Why the difference? Reply
• Gary Katz June 11, 2010 Jack, You’re right. Read the comment I left for Sternberg. Reply
• brad owen June 16, 2010 Gary, Thanks for sharing ideas with so many of us younger, hungry carpenters. I have made two miter saw tables using a 14″ by 16 foot I- joist. They are arrow straight, light, and they were taking up space in our company storage area. Reply
• David TuttleJune 18, 2010 I have to ditto what Gary says, I’ve been using the Steel and Aluminum stand Lamar refers to for years and I don’t understand how any “professional” could ever think of working with out solid wings. Lamar’s set up is now published and it is very sweet, and looks more “custom Kool” than my metal set up. Reply
• Jim McCorison June 28, 2010 Great looking stand and a good article, with one exception. You state “For the best accuracy, try to split the pencil line in half.” The sentence is a little confusing, especially for a beginner. I know what you mean, and you know what you mean, but a beginning reader may not. I think it would be best if you stated that the edge of the blade on the good side of the board (as opposed to the off-cut) should split the pencil line leaving a shadow of the line on the good side. Or something like that. I’m sure you can word it a lot better than I did. After all, no matter how experienced, we all still periodically leave the line on the wrong side of the cut. Usually on expensive trim. Usually on your last cut without enough extra to cut a new piece. Reply
• Jack BakerDecember 22, 2011 Dear Gary, I really appreciate that you’ve made this plan available online in addition to print format. I’m a literature professor who has picked up woodworking as a hobby this past year, and one of the things I realized very early on was that making cuts on my miter saw was going to be a great challenge unless I had a stand. Thankfully, I found this site and had a friend who gave me a good deal of free wood to get me started, so I just built my stand according to your plans for no cost. I’ll be adding the fence and repetitive stop guard later. Perhaps I’ll cantilever the stand to the wall–I’m less concerned with portability and more concerned with stability. Any thoughts on how best to attach this stand to the wall? Blessings! Jack [img]http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/miter_saw_stand.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/miter_saw_2.jpg[/img] Reply
• Gary Katz December 23, 2011 Jack, I’m glad you made one of these ‘starter’ stands. Honestly, a miter saw is worthless without a stand, and continuous wings make a huge difference in easy of use, quality of cuts, and enjoyment. Yes, they’re a little more awkward to carry around, especially a full length table like yours, but I did it for years, on the top of my lumber racks, and was always glad to have it. Mounting the stand to a wall is very easy. Just attach a cleat to the wall that is ripped to the I.D. (inside dimension) of the stand–so that it fits inside between the top and bottom bed. Make a few corbels or brackets from plywood. Mount the corbels to pieces of 1×4, fastening through the back, so you can fasten through the face of the corbel-cleats into a few studs beneath the stand. Piece of cake. Gary Reply
• Jack BakerDecember 27, 2011 Thanks for the ideas Gary. I went ahead and made the corbel system out of some spare plywood and 2×4’s I had around. One of the things I’m also learning as a new woodworker is that my ideas seem to be good, but my thought process is sometimes off a bit:) I built the first corbel at 16″ because this is the size of the bottom plank of the stand–what I didn’t account for was the dust collection orifice on the back of my saw. If I made the other two corbels at 16″, I would have only had a few inches of material to screw through the stand into the corbels. So I made the other two at 21 1/2″; adjusting for the 3 1/2″ of wall 2×4’s, I then had 16″ more inches. I slid the stand out enough for my saw to balance just fine on the corbels and screwed in from the top of the bottom plank of the stand. It is solid and leaves a very small footprint. I made my first project yesterday and was blown away by how streamlined and precise the cuts were. Surely there are many more people who have built this stand but just haven’t commented…I’ve reposted your link to and told many of my DIY-er friends about the plans as well. [img]http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/baker_miter_saw_stand_finished.JPG[/img] Reply
• AmyInNH October 7, 2021 Very nice. Thanks for posting the photo, it’s a great idea for a stationary bench. Reply
• George Ruckstuhl November 13, 2012 Good article, thanks. Has anyone noticed any of the plywood moving/warping, particularly the top wings that run wild on the ends from being in a garage that is not allways heated. Reply
• Zach PetersenDecember 4, 2013 Hey, Gary. Can you please write a sentence or two on how you’d best put a fence on this stand? Great article, great. Reply
• Gary Katz December 5, 2013 Zach, I thought I mentioned that in the article, but I’d suggest taking a piece of 1×4 and screwing it on edge to the extension wings, in both directions, and using that 1×4 to clamp stops to. Gary Reply
• Rafe October 28, 2014 I’d suggest if someone wants a portable full support miter saw stand setup to check out fastcaps. A friend of mine used to lug around a big plywood rig and it looked like a huge pain in the ass. Probably the best couple hundred bucks I’ve ever spent on a tool. Reply
• Paul November 17, 2017 Sir, I’m brand new to woodworking but his tutorial was fantastic! My buddy who has built just about everything under the sun was impressed with the directions and the result. My question is what would you recommend to prevent the stand from bowing? I have a 12” Hitachi miter saw and the stand seems to move up and down easily. I used 3/4” plywood for the entire project. Should I remove the top and add more supports? Thanks, again! Reply
• Gary Katz November 19, 2017 Paul, I’m assuming you mean the extension wings? Did you edgeband the wings with 1×2? That usually strengthens them substantially–my wings are made from 1/2″ plywood and they’re pretty stout. Gary Reply
• Norm Miller October 7, 2018 I’ve been a trim carpenter for over 30 years and I agree whole heartedly with this post! I’ve never liked the commercial stands, with the possible exception of the one by FastCap, but I could never justify the cost. Attached is a photo of my most recent table. I built the “wings” to fit close to the saw and angled to fit the left and right miters, leaving just enough room to lift the saw out, plus a little storage area under the top and a clip for my tape. There is a huge advantage with this type of table setting on a good pair of sawhorses. I can set an entire bundle of molding right in front of me, ready to start chopping! Plus, I can attach a piece of plywood to each end giving me what ever length of support I need. I’ve tried several different types of stops over the years, but found that all too often, they just get in the way, Now I just use a block of scrap and a kreg clamp. Thanks for the post! Reply
• Gary Katz October 10, 2018 A proper mitersaw ‘station’ makes all the difference. I’m constantly amazed when at all the finish carpenters I see (especially on Instagram) who use roller stands. 🙂 If I could perform one magic trick, is would be to turn all those roller stands into stations with continuous wings, just to see the reaction. Well, maybe that’s what I’d do if I had only one magic trick, but maybe it’s not… Gary Reply
• Sal LoSapio October 9, 2018 Nice station, Gary — I’m ready to build one to upgrade from my current set up. I would like to know which foldable horses you use with your set up (first picture). Thanks! Sal Reply
• Gary Katz October 10, 2018 Sal, Those are just inexpensive plastic horses from a BigBox store. I’m sure you can find them lots of places. Gary Reply
• Charles Senf December 9, 2018 Mr. Katz: I watched your video on Crown. I cannot thank you enough. If you ever find the motivation and funding to follow up (same precise style and format) on Cathedral Crown I would like to be first in line. I taught ‘Computers’ for years and realize a great presentation when I see one. True Angle (compoundmiter dot com) has a book out and I’ve read the excerpts. They did not offer the level of confidence gleaned from your explanations. I like Lamar Horton’s Stand and found this page looking to find a plan for that one! For light weight wings – might a door skin approach serve? I built a 24″ wide shelf for a relative years ago using two sheets of (nominal) 1/8″ Philippine Mahogany (or similar) plywood. the perimeter was made of 1″ x 1″ ‘white wood’ while the interior was fitted with a lattice work of inter-locking 1″ x 3/6″ strips in what is called a TORSION BOX construction. Key is building it on a flat surface! Lay the bottom skin down and glue the perimeter pieces down, then glue the lattice-work to that surface and let it set up/dry. then apply the glue to the top of the lattice work and perimeter pieces and lay on the top sheet of plywood. The result is extremely strong (held an old school 21″ TV plus) and very lite weight. Reply
• Gary Katz December 9, 2018 Hi Charles, Yes, a tortion box is a good alternative–that’s the design that Ron Paulk uses in his Ultimate Workbench and lots of carpenters love those (http://www.paulkhomes.com/order-plans.html). I make my jobsite extension wings from a single sheet of 1/2″ baltic birch pywood (multi-ply) and I Band the edges with 1×2 for additional rigidity. I’ve seen lots of carpenters make extension wings that way, too. Whatever floats your boat as long as you have continuous extension wings on your miter saw. And when I get to producing a video on cathedral crown, you’ll hear about it! I’ve just been way too busy working on my home to tackle any “extra credit” projects. But that time will soon come. Gary Reply

Free Portable Miter Saw Stand Plans

Chris Baylor is a woodworking expert and writer with over a decade of hands-on commercial carpentry experience. He has studied under master carpenters and also designs wooden tools and furniture, sharing tutorials on websites including Woodworkers Workshop and Homemade Tools.

Building Plans

The compound miter saw, occasionally referred to as a chop saw, is the tool of choice when woodworking projects call for compound angles and precise crosscuts. When working with a compound miter saw in a woodshop, there is typically a long table to the left and right of the miter saw to keep the stock in line with and level with the table of the miter saw.

However, when away from the woodshop, the best way to use a compound miter saw is with a portable miter saw stand. Just as there are many models of miter saws, there are numerous versions of compound miter saw stands commercially available. Even so, each model has some drawbacks. Sometimes, they are too difficult to set up or don’t have proper supports for long pieces of stock. Many models are quite expensive, as well.

After researching the numerous choices of miter stands available, we decided to build one. We used pressure-treated stock for nearly the entire piece (except the table holding the saw) for longevity. In our case, nearly all of the stock for the stand was left over from previous projects.

When all was said and done, we had a very strong 12-foot-long stand that could be easily disassembled into six easily-transportable pieces and set back up in seconds.

Recommended Tools

Build the Table Support Boxes

To begin building our miter saw stand plans, we need to make the support structure beneath the saw table. The saw sits on a piece of melamine-covered particleboard, which in turn, is attached to two box-like structures made from pressure-treated wood.

Using your miter saw (with some temporary stock supports), cut four lengths of pressure-treated 2×6 at 31 inches long for the sides. Cut four more at 10-1/4 inches for the ends and two at 7-1/4 inches for center supports.

As shown earlier, butt one of the end pieces to the end of one of the side pieces and attach using some 2-1/2-inch deck screws. Connect the opposite side piece to the other side of the end piece. Then, attach the other end in the same manner. Finally, place one of the center pieces exactly in the middle between the sides and connect with deck screws.

Repeat with the remaining pieces to create a second box structure.

Attach the Saw Table

With the two under-structures completed, we’ll now attach the saw table to the assembly. On a shop table, position the two box assemblies parallel to one another (along the long sides) with a scrap piece of 2×6 in between acting as a spacer. Be sure that the two boxes are aligned evenly.

Position a 24×36-inch piece of 3/4-inch-thick melamine-coated particleboard onto the assembly and center it evenly on all four sides (there should be about a 1-inch reveal on all four sides). Attach to the sub-structure assembly with 1-5/8-inch deck screws. Remove the spacer and set the assembly aside for a while.

Begin the Leg Assemblies

With the saw table complete, we’ll turn our attention to building the two leg assemblies to support the stand. This step is a bit tricky, so work carefully and double-check your measurements before beginning any cut. The top cut of each of the four legs needs to be cut.

Using your miter saw, cut four pieces of 2×4 (treated) to 40 inches in length. Then, adjust your compound miter saw for a 20-degree miter (to the left) with about a 7-degree (angled to the left) bevel. Set stock support directly in front of the miter saw.

Using your combination square, align one 2×4 on edge perpendicular to the miter saw’s fence. Hold the piece securely with your hands well away from the blade, remove the combination square and cut the compound miter on the leg (as shown above). It would be advisable to secure the piece of stock with a clamp, as the turning of the blade may try to slide the piece as it is being cut. Cut two of the four legs in this manner.

To cut the bottom of the leg, measure 32 inches from the long point and make a mark. Position the stock against the fence, on edge with the longest point on the top-back spot. Adjust the bevel to 15-degrees left and cross-cut the leg at the mark. This should allow the bottom of the leg to sit flat on the ground when the assembly is in place. Repeat with the other leg.

Next, rotate the miter to 20-degrees right and the bevel to 7-degrees right. Cut the tops of the other two legs in the same manner (positioned perpendicular to the fence). Then adjust the bevel to 15-degrees right and cut the bottoms of the two legs at the same length as the first two legs.

Tip: Cutting the legs to 32 inches in length will put the cutting surface of the miter saw at about 34 inches off of the ground. Adjust the leg length accordingly for a higher cutting surface.

Attach a Cross Brace

Take one each out of the two different sets of legs you cut in the last step and align the top cuts together so that the legs are splayed out (twenty degrees in each direction). Position a scrap of stock in between the two top cuts and clamp the pieces together as shown in the picture on this page.

Measure down 2 inches from the top and make a pencil line across the two legs perpendicular to the spacer that separates the two legs. This will mark the top edge of the cross brace for this side of the leg assembly. Measure the length of this line across the two legs.

Set your miter saw to zero-degree bevel but 20-degree miter and cut a piece of 2×4 stock with the measurement from across the two legs as the short-point-to-short-point measurement on this block. You should end up with a trapezoidal-shaped piece of stock.

Attach this piece at the mark shown using some long deck screws.

Flip the assembly over and repeat the entire procedure, adding another short cross-brace at the same height on the opposite side of the leg assembly. Remove the spacer after the second cross-brace is attached.

Repeat the entire procedure with the other two legs.

Attach a Stabilizing Brace

With the cross-braces attached on each side of the tops of the leg assemblies, we’ll next add a stabilizing brace to the bottom of the leg assembly. The height of this brace is not as important as merely making certain that it is securely attached and at the same height on each leg.

From the long point on the bottom of one leg, measure up approximately 10–12 inches on the corner of the leg and make a mark. This mark denotes where the top of the stabilizing brace will be attached. Repeat at the same spot on the opposite leg.

Measure the distance between the two marks. As in the previous step, this will be the short-point-to-short-point on a trapezoidal-cut piece of stock.

With the miter saw set to 20-degrees miter (zero-degree bevel), cut one end of the stabilizing brace. Flip the unit over, measure the short-to-short distance and cut the opposite side. Attach to the leg assembly using deck screws.

Tip: The short-to-short distance should be the same on the second stabilizing brace as it was on the first. If they are different, you might experience a bit of wobble when the stand is in use.

Notch the Beam

With the two leg assemblies completed, we’ll turn our attention to the beam, the main support on the project. This beam will need to be notched twice for each leg assembly, as the notches and cross braces will connect providing considerable lateral support for the stand.

To begin, measure in 30-inches from each end of the 12-foot-long pressure-treated 2×6. Using your combination square, mark a 75-degree angle leaning toward the center (105-degrees from the opposite side of the angle, as shown in the plans). Make a cross-mark 2-1/2 inches up the line. At this spot, mark a 1-1/2-inch long line perpendicular to the angle. From the end of this line, make a line at a 75-degree angle (parallel to the first line) back down to the bottom of the beam. Repeat on the opposite end of the beam.

Next, position one of the leg assemblies on the floor in the approximate angle that the unit will be used (with the bottoms of the legs flat on the floor). Measure the distance between the high points of the two cross braces on the top of the leg assembly (the distance should be around 5 inches).

Make a mark at this distance from the first mark you made in this step (30 inches from the end) and mark out a second notch on this end of the beam exactly as you made the first on this end. Repeat the procedure on the opposite side (being certain to measure the distance between the cross braces).

Now, use a cross-cut hand saw and cut the parallel lines of the four notches (eight cuts in all). Use a sharp chisel and ease out the ends of the notches. Take your time to make sure you cut the notches cleanly.

Position the Legs on the Beam

With the leg assemblies completed and the beam notched, it’s time to put the stand together. Slide each leg assembly onto the beam and into the notches as shown in the picture on this page. The cross-braces of each leg assembly should fit snugly (but not too snugly) into each pair of notches on the beam. It may be useful to wiggle the leg assembly a bit as you’re sliding the legs onto (or off of) the beam. With both legs connected to the beam, flip the unit over onto its legs. The leg-and-beam assembly should be sturdy and have no wobble. You should be able to easily lean onto the beam or push it in any direction and it should be stable (provided that the cross-braces on the leg assemblies are properly seated in each of the notches).

Bolt the Saw to the Table

Once the beam and leg assemblies have been connected and are stable, we’ll turn our attention back to the saw table and attach the compound miter saw to the saw table.

To begin this step, grab the saw table that you set aside earlier and position it onto the beam. The two box structures under the tabletop should fit snugly (but not too snugly) across the beam, much like a saddle on a horse. The table should be stable on the beam but might have a very slight wobble (which should not affect the accuracy of the saw).

With the saw table on the stand, place your compound miter saw onto the table. Position the saw so that the fence is parallel to the far side of the beam (as you look at it). Positioning it in this location will allow any stock to be cut to be placed directly over the beam when being cut.

Center the saw on the table and mark the bolt hole locations. (Most compound miter saws have 1/2-inch-diameter bolt holes, so if your unit requires larger or smaller diameter bolts, be sure to adjust accordingly.) Remove the saw and drill the four holes using a 1/2-inch paddle bit.

Place the saw back on the table and align the bolt holes with the holes in the table. Place a large flat washer between the saw base and the table. Then slip a bolt through each hole in the saw, through the washer and the saw table. On the underside of the table, slip a large flat washer followed by a lock washer and a nut onto each bolt. Tighten the bolts to lock the saw onto the table. Do not over-tighten the bolts, as you don’t want to damage the melamine tabletop.

Tip: Unless you’re of above-average size and strength (or are partial to hernias), it is probably a good idea to have someone help you when you remove the saw table from the beam or put it on next time. The saw table with the saw attached can be quite heavy.

Build the Stock Supports

In the final step of these plans, we’ll build a pair of stock supports to hold the stock at the proper height when it is being cut.

To begin, cut two lengths of treated 2×4 to 16 inches in length and two more at 12 inches. Set these pieces aside for the moment.

Measure the height from the top of the melamine table to the base of the miter saw’s table. On most saws, this height should be somewhere between 3 and 4 inches. Add the thickness of the melamine tabletop to this distance and you’ll have the final height needed for each stock support.

Next, subtract this distance from the width of two 2x4s (which should be 7 inches). To verify, place the edge of one of the 16-inch pieces against the edge of one of the 12-inch pieces and measure the combined width.

Subtract the height needed for each stock support from the width of the two 2x4s and divide this result in half. This is the depth that you’ll need to make on some half-lap joints to create the stock supports. In the case of our miter saw stand, we needed to make the depth of the half-lap joints at 1-9/32 inch. While we could have used a table saw to make these joints, we chose to use a circular saw instead.

On the edge of the 16-inch piece of stock, make a mark at 7-1/4 inches and another at 8-3/4 inches. This will be the edges of the half-lap joint. Make similar marks at 5-1/4 inches and 6-3/4 inches on the edge of the 12-inch piece. Cut the half-lap joints at the determined depth using one of the methods described in our article on half-lap joints.

Repeat with the other pair and secure the half-lap joints using wood glue.

Next, cut eight 9-inch pieces with a 45-degree angle. Attach these to the 12-inch pieces as shown using deck screws.

Finally, slip the supports onto the beam where desired. The four angled pieces should hold the stock supports in place.

How to Build a Miter Saw Table

Family Handyman

Introduction

Miter saw stands are an essential, but expensive accessory for carpenters. Instead of buying one, save money and get a more versatile work table by building your own. Use these photos and free plan as a guide.

Materials Required

If you’ve ever used a miter saw to cut long, unsupported stock, you know what a hassle it is to deal with a saw that moves all over the place while you’re trying to make cuts. Yes, you can buy saw stands, but they’re expensive and, frankly, not nearly as versatile or user-friendly as this homemade miter saw table.

This miter saw table supports long boards and provides a fence that you can fit with stops for making repetitive identical cuts. It locks down your saw so it won’t budge while you’re working. Built-in cubbyholes give you a place to store all those little parts and tools that go with any carpentry task. Just leave the saw on board and slide the whole unit into your pickup truck for on-the-road jobs. Or loosen the wing nuts, remove the saw and haul it away on its own. This table is also a great workbench for more than just cutting. You’ll find it a useful platform for all those little carpentry tasks that are part of any project, and it’s right there where you need it.

This design will work for any miter saw. We’ll show you how to customize it to fit whatever saw you have. As for tools, you’ll only need a table saw to rip the plywood and dividers (Figure A) to width, your miter saw to cut the parts to length, and a screw gun to screw the whole works together.

Figure A: Miter Box

The basic design is simple, and the parts are all made from inexpensive, standard lumber.

Buy the materials

Measure the diameter of your miter saw mounting holes before you get started. You’ll need to buy hanger bolts with matching wing nuts the same size as the holes for a snug fit. Find the right bolt length by measuring the height of the saw table and adding 2-1/2 in. With the bolt size figured out, head to the home center and pick up your bolts and the other items on the materials list.

Miter Saw Table

The miter saw has become one of the most useful power tools in many workshops, replacing the radial arm saw, which has all but faded into the dustbins of history, if not the dustbins of our workshops. Not only is the miter saw more versatile than a radial arm saw, but it is easier to work with as well, and the ones with rails provide almost as much capacity.

But miter saws have one major limitation, their size. No matter how good a miter saw you buy, it’s got a small table and fence. Table extenders help somewhat with this, but don’t totally make up for the small table size. Of course, there’s good reason for the small table; miter saws are intended to be portable. The larger the table, the harder it would be to take to a remote jobsite.

The tables and fences on these saws are carefully designed to give you just enough space to ensure that your cuts come out the way they’re supposed to. With care, you can make every cut absolutely perfect. But if you’re not careful enough, you’re going to either have some sloppy joints or waste a lot of material. That’s enough of a reason to want a bigger table even if you can only have it when you’re in your workshop.

For this reason, it only makes sense to mount any miter saw to a table extending the saw’s table and fence. You can buy commercial ones, including commercially made ones which are collapsible, but they are expensive. Not only that, but while they do provide a tale for the saw, they don’t provide much else. However, if you make your own DIY miter saw stand, you can not only increase the table and fence size, but build in storage for other tools or materials.

Basic Miter Saw Stand Design

As you probably gathered from my introduction, I have very specific ideas about what makes a good miter saw stand. Without getting into any extras, the stand must provide for an extension of the miter saw’s table and fence. If it doesn’t do that, then it’s not really a miter saw stand, it’s just another workbench, with a miter saw sitting on it.

Notice that I say that both the table and fence need to be extended. There are many miter saw stands, including commercial ones, which only extend the table, without extending the fence. While this does provide support for the material while cutting it, it does not provide adequate support for cutting miters on molding, especially crown molding. That’s the biggest reason to have a long fence on a miter saw.

Any miter saw stand needs to be built in three sections; a center section, which is lower, for the saw to sit in, and two wings which are at the exact same height above the center section as the table of the saw is. This difference is essential and must be exact for the table to accomplish what it needs to, supporting the material. Even a slight difference in this height will affect the angle of the cuts you make, so measure at least three times, not just twice. Overall, you probably want to make it about six feet wide.

The center section is going to have to be slightly wider than the miter saw itself. Don’t try to make a snug fit, because that won’t allow you any room for adjusting the position of the saw. Rather, gives yourself about an extra inch. That’s not so much as to cause a gap in the table or fence that will cause problems, while still allowing you some flexibility for adjusting the position.

Before attaching the fence, bold the miter saw in place. If you want your saw to be removable, for off-site use, then make stop blocks for the saw’s base to sit into and clamp it into place. Just be sure that you have positive location for the saw, so that you can return it to the exact same place repeatedly.

The fence can be made of just about any material, just as long as it won’t warp. I would make an angle out of two pieces of 1”x 4” hardwood or one piece of 1”x 4” and one piece of 1”x 2”. In either case, the face of the fence should be made absolutely straight, without any seams or joints.

To install the fence, attach a straight edge, piece of unbent steel angle or a good straight piece of dimensional lumber to the front of the saw’s integral fence. You can than attach your two fence extensions to this straight edge with clamps, and then mount it to the top of the stand’s wings. Be sure to go into solid material with the mounting screws or bolts, so that the hardware can’t strip out, allowing the fence to move.

Making a Portable Miter Saw Stand

If you need a portable miter saw stand, you can make the same basic design, but only putting a base under the lower center section. The wings can then be hinged, with supports, so that they lay against the sides of the base for movement or when not using them. To improve the mobility even more, add casters under the base.

When you make those wings or table extensions, you want more than just a sheet of plywood. A single sheet of plywood is flexible, so that won’t give you a solid table extension. Rather, you want to frame them and hinge the frame to the center section of the base, not the benchtop. Supports can be something as simple as sticks that go into sockets mounted to the bottom of the table extensions and mounted to the sides of the base.

Remember that you have to keep your height accurate on this. Extension wings that aren’t going to line up with the height of the table are going to cause you problems with cutting. Keep the old rule of measure three times and cut once in mind. Dry fit it together a couple of times as well, before screwing the hinges in place.

Options to Consider

The basic DIY miter saw stand is actually rather simple. But there’s a lot of space that’s not being used in it. I don’t know about you, but I don’t have any space to spare in my workshop, I especially don’t have any space to waste. I like to get the most out of every bit of space that I can.

One way I do this is to turn everything I can into storage space. Any space under tool stands and workbenches is valuable storage space in my book. It’s just a matter of how that space is going to be utilized and what’s going to be stored there. Here are some ideas for you:

Built-in dust collection

Any power tool is going to create a lot of dust and your miter saw is no exception. A well organized and put together workshop can reduce the problems of dust by making use of dust collection. Specifically, in this case, you can mount a small shop vac in the cabinet under the saw, attaching its hose directly to the saw’s dust collection port, allowing the sawdust to be collected each time you use the saw.

To make this more efficient, connect the saw and shop vac to a electrical box with a single switch to control them both. That way, when you turn your saw on, your shop vac will be on as well.

Building in other power tools

If you’re going to be building a mobile workbench for your miter saw, chances are you have other power tools that could use someplace to mount them. One such possibility would be to mount a router table into one end of the stand and a portable table saw into the other, increasing the table area for both of these tools as well. Of course, this would require making your fences movable, but it would be worth it.

Another possibility, without having to make movable fences, would be to use the space on the back side of the miter saw stand, behind the fence. This would be ideal area for mounting a belt sander, grinder or drill press, once again increasing the utility of your workbench space.

Tool storage

If you have portable power tools (and who doesn’t?) you probably have trouble finding enough space to store them, while still keeping them accessible. The space under your miter saw stand could easily be converted to cubbyholes the right size for these tools. I don’t have a miter saw stand like this, but I have a rolling workbench that I have converted in this way, giving me a place to have all my power tools readily accessible, right where I use them.

Adding a power strip to this, you could easily have a charging station for all your cordless power tool batteries or have someplace to plug the powered tools in, when you are using them.

Material storage

Probably the easiest way to make use of this space is to make it into material storage. You could create a series of cubbyholes, running the length of the stand, to be used for long pieces of molding, tubing and wood. Smaller cubbyholes in the front could be used for small pieces of plywood or useful scraps. You could literally create any configuration you want, making it possible to get the most out of your space and keep your materials readily at hand.

Drawers

Another good idea is to add a couple of drawers for extra saw blades, drill bits, clamps and other small tools. You can never have too much space for keeping track of your tools.

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DIY Portable Miter Saw Stand / Station | Shop Projects