Gasoline does not flow into the grass trimmer carburetor cause

Gasoline-powered cars

The gasoline engine may not start after warming up quite often, especially when working in low temperatures. The fact is that the fuel remaining in the chamber begins to evaporate quickly due to the elevated temperatures. All cavities are filled with steam, including the carburetor, manifold, air filter. As a result, the fuel levels in the float chamber decrease, and gas locks appear. The duration of such a process depends on the device of the fuel system and on the temperature regime from the outside.

That is, the reason why the gasoline engine does not warm up after warming up lies in the excessive evaporation of gasoline and in the formation of a rich fuel mixture.

The carburetor engine stalls after warming up. what’s the matter?

Carburetor power units are actually a thing of the past. But many cars on the roads of our country still use this option for supplying fuel to the engine. For many, the carburetor turns out to be a rather convenient means of replacing the injector, since the car becomes easier to repair and cheaper to operate. In most cases, the owner of a carburetor car can independently carry out basic maintenance work on the fuel supply system. In the case of an injector, this task should only be performed by a specialist. For a simple carburetor repair, you do not need special equipment, but such devices are simply necessary to work with the injector. Therefore, such a part of the engine power system has certain advantages. Interestingly, these advantages force many to change the injector to a carburetor, which is not difficult.

The problems that arise with the carburetor can be very different. One of the most common problems is stopping the engine after the car is fully warmed up. The driver has to increase the rpm using a suction, but this trick will not work on carburetors with an auto-suction. Ultimately, immediately after you release the gas pedal, the engine stalls. At every traffic light, intersection and pedestrian crossing, the driver begins to scold fate, red lights and innocent pedestrians, and the carburetor continues to stall and refuses to work normally, despite the very expensive gasoline. Let’s deal with the nature of this trouble.

Diesel vehicles: causes and solutions

Considering the question of why a diesel engine does not start well after warming up, it can be noted that this problem during heating occurs among many owners of cars of all classes. Unlike a gasoline engine, diesel problems are not so obvious and trivial.

This problem is common among domestic and imported vehicles. The reasons for this phenomenon when the machine refuses to work are varied:

  • Problems with the fluid temperature control sensor. The sensor, which records and displays information about the coolant temperature, is out of order, as a result of which the supply of the combustible mixture is carried out incorrectly.
  • In case of incorrect operation or breakdowns, the electronic device receives an incorrect impulse, the fuel supply adjustment is disrupted, and after warming up the engine does not start.
  • Depressurization of injectors during heating, through which diesel fuel seeps out over time. It is found in excess in the combustion chamber, which interferes with the normal operation of the engine. You need to get the injector and see how wet it is.
  • Incorrect operation of the injection pump during heating; in diesel engines, this element is often subject to malfunctions. The problem is solved by cooling the rear area of ​​the pump and re-trying to start, as well as the way out of the situation will be to replace the plunger pair, bushings.
  • Malfunctioning injector sensors responsible for fuel injection. As a result, the injection angle changes; to solve the problem, it is necessary to correctly adjust the direction. It is recommended to carry out checking actions for the operation of idle speed regulators, pressure.

In fact, there are few common causes and problems of hot start, and if you know the right solutions to eliminate them, you can avoid unforeseen consequences and make the driving process more comfortable.

Do not immediately panic and go to the service station to find out why the car will not start. Problems can lie in commonplace things.

Cars with carburetor engines (VAZ 2101,2102,2103,2104,2105,2106,2107)

The causes of this malfunction can be very diverse, but the 2 main ones are a malfunction of the fuel system and the ignition system. The search must be carried out in stages, then the desired result will be obtained. The reason for the unstable operation of the engine is the over-enrichment or depletion of the fuel mixture entering the engine cylinders when you press the gas pedal. This should be taken into account when diagnosing faults.

Indirect signs by which you can determine the reasons for the unstable operation of the engine when you press the gas pedal.

When starting off or at idle speed, a “failure” is felt when you smoothly press the gas pedal. During acceleration and further movement, the engine runs stably.

When driving at low and medium speeds, when you press the gas pedal, the car jerks with a possible stop of the engine. This defect disappears when the gas pedal is pressed more firmly.

Clogging of channels, fuel jet, emulsion well with an emulsion tube of the main dosing system of the first chamber of the carburetor. Eliminated by cleaning and blowing channels and nozzle.

The engine stalls or a “failure” is observed when the gas pedal is pressed sharply at idle, when starting off, accelerating and moving the car at different speeds.

gasoline, does, flow, grass, trimmer
  • Accelerator pump defective. It is eliminated by disassembling, revising and replacing damaged parts from rem. kit.
  • Insufficient gasoline level in the carburetor float chamber. Eliminated by adjusting the float position.

With an excessive level of fuel in the carburetor’s float chamber, the mixture is highly over-enriched and entering the engine cylinders can “fill” the spark plugs. If the level is insufficient, the fuel mixture, on the contrary, is lean and by pressing the gas pedal the engine does not receive the required amount of fuel and the car, instead of acceleration, gets deceleration.

A hot engine stalls on the move or at idle

To begin with, the symptoms and signs of this problem can manifest themselves in different ways. Quite often, the power unit can stall in idle mode, and the unstable operation and complete stop of the internal combustion engine often occurs after the engine has warmed up.

First of all, diagnostics should start with checking the spark plugs and their condition. In parallel, high-voltage armored wires should be checked. This must be done due to the fact that weak sparking or complete absence of a spark on the spark plug electrodes is possible. Interruptions in the spark lead to serious malfunctions in the engine, as a result of which both the cold unit and after warming up the engine stalls. Replacing spark plugs and high-voltage wires often helps to solve the problem.

Another common situation is when the engine stalls hot or cold immediately after starting. In this case, on many modern cars with an injection power system, the idle sensor should be checked. The output of this element of the electronic engine control system often leads to the fact that the engine in idle speed is simply unable to work.

In some cases, cleaning the XX regulator helps, in others the device should be replaced. On cars with a carburetor, the idle jets may clog up and other carburetor malfunctions. Injection motors also require an additional check of the synchronization sensor (DPKV); possible problems with the gas pump should not be ruled out. One way or another, if the engine stalls on a hot one or it constantly happens with a cold unit, then in-depth diagnostics will be required.

If we talk about why the car stalls at idle when the engine warms up, then the reasons may be similar to those cases when the heated unit stops right in motion. This happens as a result of heating of certain elements of the engine, after which thermal expansion occurs and a failure occurs.

On carburetor cars with a mechanical ignition distributor, a situation arises when the slider stops performing its functions. Quite often, after the internal combustion engine warms up, the central wire on the ignition coil can go off, there are problems with the capacitor of the ignition unit, etc. A well-known problem of cars with a mechanical gas pump is that the engine stalls in the heat. This is due to overheating, since the high temperature overboard and significant heating of the engine compartment do not allow the pump to cool normally.

In parallel, attention should be paid to the condition of the fuel filters. If the filter element turns out to be clogged, then during the increase in the load and the increase in speed, the required amount of fuel does not enter the engine through the dirty filter and the engine stalls. We add that usually, before a significant decrease in the filter capacity and a complete stop of the motor, the malfunction progresses. At first, the car may not pick up speed, it starts poorly, dips appear when you press the gas pedal, the engine is unstable or jerks when you press the accelerator, in transient modes, etc.

gasoline, does, flow, grass, trimmer

Modern cars with an injector have an electronic control unit (ECU, ECU). This unit is quite rare, but still fails. In this case, the engine may stall on the move, and the problem itself manifests itself in different situations, including after the internal combustion engine has warmed up. In this case, as well as if it is necessary to check individual ECM sensors, it is necessary to carry out computer diagnostics of the car. The system will display the existing errors in the form of codes, after decoding of which it is possible to localize the malfunction. If the problem is “floating”, that is, it occurs periodically, then it is recommended to purchase a compact device that allows you to read information about the engine operation via the OBD connector. Due to the subsequent display of data on the screen of a smartphone, tablet or laptop with a preinstalled program, this solution will allow fixing failures in real time.

The engine starts and stalls: reasons

In practice, it happens when the driver was able to start the car normally, and it began to work productively, however, after the sensor fixes the current operating temperature, the engine stalls. Of course, this not only causes discomfort for drivers, but also is an unpleasant situation that requires establishing the exact reasons and taking specific actions.

Here are some common reasons why a motor might behave this way, and why it refuses to run hot:

  • The car started quietly and worked well, but then the engine began to behave strangely. malfunctioning, starting poorly. This can only indicate that you have poured low quality or defective fuel into the car. To solve the problem, you need to drain it, purge the system and then replace the filter. Replacement of spark plugs is recommended. This reason why the engine refuses to work is the reason for each driver to behave prudently and always require a receipt at the gas station (in case of subsequent problems, he will be able to express his claims at the gas station).
  • Another common reason when a car, more precisely, the engine stalls during warm-up, is the presence of malfunctions in the throttle valve area. The situation can be corrected by carrying out cleaning. The element position sensor can be another problem. The decision is obvious. you will need to replace the TPS, the procedure can be done by hand in a short time.
  • There is normal fuel in the car, but it stopped functioning when hot. If this happens to your vehicle, you should notice the air filter. For a responsible and high-quality performance of work, it is worth contacting the specialists of the service center.
  • A similar situation can occur if the car’s air filter is clogged. The difficulty is connected with the fact that the motor needs to “breathe”, and there is nothing to do this during warming up. The fact is that the air mixture becomes too rich in fuel, this leads to the fact that the engine stalls. In this situation, it is necessary to replace the air filter.
  • The problem with the gas pump is a common malfunction in which the engine refuses to work. This picture is typical for many engines. The gas pump can be repaired, but many experts advise replacing it with a new unit.
  • There are situations when the generator “refuses” to provide the required charge to the car battery. If this happens, the best and first method that comes to the rescue is to tighten the drive belt. If such a measure did not help improve the situation, this may indicate a generator failure. If this breakdown occurs, restarting the unit will be impossible due to the seated battery.
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We carry out diagnostics and repair work with the carburetor ourselves

You can take advantage of the excellent carburetor capabilities if you know its design and have done some simple repair work in the past. Otherwise, we do not recommend that you try self-recovery. Ultimately, such a repair will cost much more than it could have cost a technician. If you have experience and confidence in your skills, you can use the advice of specialists to perform a high-quality restoration of your car. Among the main work that will have to be done, the following processes can be distinguished:

  • remove the carburetor cover with an air filter and try to start the car, as it warms up, lower the suction and do not look at the position of the dampers, perhaps their adjustment will be enough to restore the car’s operation;
  • if this does not help, look at the functioning of the fuel system, perhaps the gas pump stops pumping fuel after a certain period of normal operation;
  • also examine the cooling system, no matter what the gauges on the dashboard say, look at the level of antifreeze, make sure the thermostat is working correctly;
  • You can also change the air and fuel filters to make sure that fuel and air enters the carburetor without problems and in sufficient quantities;
  • the last stage of work is the removal and disassembly of the carburetor to install a repair kit, new gaskets, membranes and other parts, as well as to clean this device from contamination.

Why gasoline does not flow in the chainsaw?

Carburetor needle. On cheap chainsaws, the needle in the carburetor often sticks, which prevents fuel from flowing. Sometimes it is enough just to move the needle and insert it correctly.

Oil seals. Chinese and even branded chainsaws may have poor-quality oil seals with poor tightness. Fuel stops flowing when the fuel mixture begins to squeeze out through the oil seals. Gasoline leakage is quite possible through oil seals.

Air filter

If the chainsaw does not supply gas to the carburetor, pay attention to the type of air filter. Due to its inadequate operation, the unstable operation of the chainsaw begins, which in the future is difficult to start or stalls during operation. Air is harder to enter the device and makes the mixture too rich. You can hardly start it, and the reason for this is the formation of dust.

It is necessary to remove the air filter carefully, because if dust is stored on it, it can crumble onto the carburetor. Clean the air filter well with water and detergent. Be sure to dry the filter before installing.

Gasoline does not flow into the chainsaw: a solution to the problem

There can be many breakdowns associated with a chainsaw, and it can be quite difficult to solve some. If you have been working with this gasoline tool for a long time, you have had a problem when gasoline does not enter the carburetor or does, but it is very difficult and does not allow the chainsaw to start normally. Fortunately, experts have long found the reasons for such a breakdown and therefore we have compiled the main methods of repair.

First of all, we check for commonplace reasons, for example, the presence of gasoline in the tank. If there is one, we check the process of supplying fuel from the tank through the wire. To do this, it is enough to disconnect the gas line from the carburetor and try to pump fuel. It will be correct to supply fuel through the hose in jerks, this will make sure that there are no problems with the gas tank. If fuel does not flow even in jerks or drips too slowly, the reasons may be as follows:

The fuel filter is clogged with dirt and dust;

Surprisingly, even having a full tank can cause no fuel to flow. Therefore, try not to fill the tank to the maximum. An overfilled fuel tank can pressurize the tube that connects to the carburetor.

Poor quality gasoline

Every experienced chainsaw user knows that fuel should not be left in the tool reservoir for a long time. The fact is that during long-term storage inside the tank, unnecessary processes will occur with the formation of resin and the polymerization of various components. Do not leave fuel in the tank for more than 2 weeks, and even if your tool is started with such fuel, it can lead to the formation of carbon deposits on the parts of the CPG (rings, piston).

Breather check

It is the breather that plays a serious role when starting a chainsaw; you can find such a part near the gas tank cap, or rather in the area of ​​the air hole. The breather plays a simple but important role. it prevents fuel from flowing out and sets the correct air pressure. It is thanks to this air that the fuel enters the carburetor, and a malfunction of this element is a common reason when fuel does not enter the chainsaw. Impaired breather operation will form negative pressure, from which gasoline will not be able to flow to the carburetor when trying to start the tool.

It is quite simple to check the performance of the breather, disconnect the gasoline pipe from the carburetor and check how the fuel flows. If the gasoline flows in a small stream, everything is in order, if it does not flow at all. the breather is more likely to be clogged with dirt. If done correctly, you can clean the part, sometimes it is easier to replace it with a new one. The cleaning procedure is carried out either by hand or with a strong jet of compressed air.

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Carburetor check sequence

On the car being tested, the engine air filter is located directly on the carburetor. Therefore, for access it must be disassembled.

  • Remove the filter cover with a wrench. We take out the filter element (at the same time we check its cleanliness) and unscrew the bolts securing the casing to the carburetor. We remove the case;
  • We look inside the carburetor. Depending on the engine temperature, the throttle valve can be open or closed. In the second case, open it with your hand. Then we press the throttle mechanism drive, and check if a stream of gasoline has appeared from the pump;
  • After making sure that there is gasoline in the carburetor, we sit down in the car, press the “gas”, and try to start the engine. If it does not start, we look further;
  • Remove the carburetor top cover to show the fuel level in the carburetor chamber. The cover is fixed with 5 screws. You should also disconnect the throttle cable bracket, and turn off the idle valve;
  • Having freed the float chamber, we estimate the level of gasoline. During normal operation of the fuel supply system, the level should be 23 mm below the walls. You can assess the level using the tail of a caliper, having previously set it to a depth of 22-23 mm;
  • We put the cover back on, fix it with a couple of screws, and start the engine again, having previously drowned the gas pedal all the way;
  • If the camera is empty, the check algorithm is slightly different. We put on the lid, leaving a small gap between the upper edge of the float chamber and the plane of the lid. We fix the gap with a flat steel ruler or a small screwdriver;
  • We fill the chamber with manual pumping or by turning the crankshaft a few turns with the starter. After filling the chamber, we try to start up again, after fixing the cover;
  • The motor is running. this is a symptom of a needle valve malfunction. It should be replaced as it is almost impossible to restore it.

The checked and reconditioned carburetor can be assembled, although it would be more correct to dismantle it (since you got to it anyway) and rinse all internal parts with acetone.

How to diagnose faults and repair a chainsaw with your own hands: the whole point

Blowing out parts of a carburetor with a blockage with compressed air is an acceptable and comfortable repair practice.

The body of the throttle valves, the places of the bundles of the carburetor parts, the inlet or outlet pipeline. what remains for our client to do, the listed parts are subject to depressurization. Probably there is an option to check with a simple method. smear the problem area with soapy foam.

  • Air supply to a tube with an air baffle (damper). The baffle regulates the intensity of the air flow.
  • The fuel supply system is necessarily narrowed by the mixer in order to increase the flow rate.
  • Petrol through the float chamber and the nozzle a tube with a constriction. A float chamber adjusts the temporary volume of gasoline. In the float chamber, the pressure level is neutral, in the tube with a constriction it is already small. Due to the pressure drop, the fuel seeps through the jet.
  • The acceleration of the air flow assists in the transfer of fuel (gasoline) and its atomization. The result is an air-fuel mixture of the desired proportion or density.
  • The air / fuel mixture seeps into the engine cylinder through the fuel pipe.

The level of air density in the system depends on the area of ​​the open air damper. The wider the damper is open, the simpler the fuel consumption and power.

Simply put, adjusting the carburetor on a petrol cutter. creating a good fuel consistency due to the correct air supply.

Carburetor Malfunction Symptoms

Possible malfunctions of the power system can be judged by the following characteristic signs of the car’s behavior on the road.

  • Failure. when the gas pedal is pressed, the car continues to move at the same speed (or with deceleration) for some time (from a split second to several seconds) and only then starts to accelerate.
  • Dash. similar to failure, but shorter.
  • Jerking. several jerks following each other.
  • Rocking. several consecutive dips.
  • Sluggish acceleration. reduced rate of increase in vehicle speed.
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Also, possible malfunctions of the engine power system can be judged by the following signs:

  • impossibility of starting the engine;
  • difficult starting of a cold engine;
  • difficult starting of a hot engine;
  • unstable engine idling;
  • increased or decreased idle speed;
  • increased fuel consumption.

The technical condition of the engine also plays an important role.

Camshaft cam wear, valve timing, incorrect adjustment of thermal clearances, valve burnout, uneven or low compression in the cylinders. lead to loss of power, vibration and increased fuel consumption.

With a worn-out cylinder-piston group, blow-by gases with resinous substances and oil vapors, getting into the cavity above the carburetor, clog the filter element of the air filter, settle on the jets and other elements of the carburetor, making their work difficult.

The engine does not start or stalls immediately after starting. This may be caused by a lack of fuel in the float chamber or a violation of the composition of the mixture (the mixture is too rich or, conversely, not sufficiently rich).

The presence of fuel in the carburetor float chamber can be checked by removing the air filter housing cover and looking into the mixing chambers. We turn the throttle valve drive sector two or three times. This will activate the accelerating pump. If there is fuel in the carburetor, it will be injected from the accelerator pump sprayer into the intake tract.

If fuel enters the cylinders, and the engine does not start, most likely, the composition of the mixture is broken or the ignition system is faulty. If the float chamber is empty, we find out why the fuel does not enter the carburetor. To do this, turning with the starter, we install the crankshaft so that the manual pump drive is in the working position.

In this case, when you press its lever, the resistance of the diaphragm and the return spring will be felt. Remove the hose from the carburetor fuel inlet and use the hand drive lever to activate the pump. A pulsating jet of fuel should appear from the hose. If it is not there, we check the presence of fuel in the tank, the flow of fuel to the pump, and the serviceability of the pump.

If fuel does not flow to the pump, it is possible that the fuel supply line is clogged or kinked, the fuel intake strainer is clogged, the ventilation of the fuel tank is impaired (due to a malfunction of the double-acting valve). Clogged fine fuel filter is also possible.

If fuel is supplied to the pump, but not to the carburetor, the pump or its drive may be defective, the fuel supply hose to the carburetor is clogged or pinched.

Fuel tank ventilation system malfunction. If, when the tank plug is removed, fuel flows through the fuel line to the pump, and after installing the plug, after a while gasoline supply interruptions begin, the double-acting valve is faulty.

The flow of fuel through the fuel line to the pump can be checked by removing the hose from the fuel pump suction fitting. Using a tire pump, through the union of a double-acting valve, we create a small pressure in the bokeh (no more than 0.5 bar), while simultaneously observing the appearance of fuel in the inlet hose of the fuel pump.

You can also extend the hose with a transparent plastic tube about 0.5 m long.Mouth, being careful, create a vacuum in the fuel line until fuel appears in the transparent tube.

ATTENTION! Do not allow gasoline to enter the body and breathe its vapors.

Echo trimmer starts but will not rev.

If there is a suspicion of a malfunction of the fuel pump, first check the presence of a vacuum in the suction cavity of the pump. Close the suction connection of the pump hermetically with your finger and press the manual drive lever several times. In a working pump, a vacuum is created in the suction cavity, which can be felt with a finger. If no vacuum is generated, the pump is defective.

Having removed the fuel pump from the engine, we still check its performance. We lower its suction connection into a container with kerosene or diesel fuel and manually pump the liquid. A working pump will have a pulsating jet from the discharge nozzle with a diameter equal to the opening of the outlet nozzle.

After making sure that the pump is supplying fuel, we check its valves for leaks. To do this, having typed fuel into the pump, tightly close the discharge connection with your finger. Using a manual drive, we create fuel pressure in the pump cavity and wait a few seconds, after which we release our finger.

A jet of fuel should spray out of the fitting, indicating the presence of pressure and, accordingly, the tightness of the valves. If, during the check, the pump is running, and after installation, but the engine is not there, then the drive is faulty.

Most likely, it will be enough to adjust the amount of protrusion of the pusher.

Lack of fuel in the float chamber if it is present at the inlet to the carburetor. The carburetor strainer may be clogged or the fuel valve needle is stuck in the closed position. We remove the mesh filter, rinse it in acetone, blow it with compressed air and put it back.

To return mobility to the valve needle, it may be enough to lightly tap the carburetor body with a wrench. But at the first opportunity, it is necessary to change the valve, since the needle sticking will periodically repeat.

Violation of the composition of the mixture can be caused by an incorrect position of the air damper, which is possible when the damper axis, lever or thrust of its drive, malfunction of the vacuum diaphragm mechanism, automatic starting device (for modifications “31”, “35” and “62”), or its incorrect adjusting.

The depletion of the mixture, both when starting the engine and during its operation, is caused by a low fuel level in the float chamber, the suction of extraneous air into the intake pipeline at the joints of the carburetor with the pipeline, the pipeline with the block head, as well as through the hose of the vacuum brake booster, damaged screw O-ring “quality”, etc.

At negative temperatures, water can freeze in the channels of the carburetor and the fuel line and clog them with ice plugs, as well as freeze the mixing chambers in the diffuser area. A drop in engine power is observed. To remove icing, it is enough to stop, turn off the engine and wait a few minutes until the ice melts.

The engine idles or stalls. With proper operation of all other carburetor systems, this is possible due to: clogging of the nozzles and idle channels; incomplete tightening or malfunction of the solenoid valve; malfunctions of the control unit or other elements of the EPHH; damage to the rubber sealing ring of the “quality” screw.

Since the transitional system of the first chamber is combined with the idle system, at unstable idle speeds, a failure and even stopping of the engine at the moment of a smooth start of the car movement is possible. The clogging can be eliminated by flushing and blowing the konols after partial disassembly of the carburetor. We replace defective parts.

Increased or decreased idle speed can be caused by improper idle speed adjustment; increased or decreased fuel level in the float chamber; clogging of the fuel or air jets, air leaks into the carburetor or intake manifold at the joints or through the connecting hoses; incomplete opening of the air damper. Unstable engine idling can be caused by too lean mixture control.

Difficulty starting a cold engine can be caused by improper adjustment of the starting device. Incomplete closure of the air damper leads to a depletion of the mixture and, accordingly, to the absence of flashes in the cylinders, and its insufficient opening after starting the engine over-enriches the mixture, and the engine “swells”.

Difficulty starting a warm engine is most often associated with the flow of a rich mixture into the cylinders due to an increased fuel level in the float chamber. The reason is either a violation of the adjustment of the float mechanism, or a leaking fuel valve.

Increased fuel consumption. Elimination of this malfunction is most difficult due to the large number of probable causes.

First, you need to make sure that there is no increased resistance to the movement of the car, which is facilitated by the braking of the pads on discs or drums, violation of wheel alignment angles, loading the car, deterioration of aerodynamic characteristics when transporting cargo on the roof. Driving style plays an important role in fuel consumption.

Such carburetor malfunctions can lead to increased consumption, such as: clogged air jets; malfunction of the EPHH system; loosely wrapped solenoid valve and, as a result, fuel leakage between the nozzle and the channel walls; economizer malfunction; incomplete opening of the air damper, leading to a constant over-enrichment of the mixture. If increased fuel consumption appears after repairing the carburetor, it is possible that jets with large bore diameters were mixed up or installed.

A deep dip, up to the engine stopping when the throttle valve of one of the chambers is opened, can be caused by a clogged main fuel jet.

When the engine is idling or at low loads, the fuel consumption of the engine is low.

When trying to reach full loads, fuel consumption increases sharply, the patency of clogged fuel jets is not enough, and a failure occurs in the engine.

Slight jerking of the car in motion, sluggish acceleration with a smooth pressing of the gas pedal can most often be caused by too low fuel level in the float chamber if the float mechanism is incorrectly adjusted.

Dips, jerks, rocking of the car. occur at increased loads and disappear when switching to idle; associated with interruptions in fuel supply.

This can be caused by leaking fuel pump valves, clogging of the mesh filters of the fuel intake, fuel pump, carburetor, increased resistance to the passage of fuel through the fine fuel filter, or air leaks into the power system.

Dips arising when the gas pedal is pressed sharply and disappearing when the engine is running for 2-5 seconds in the same mode are caused by a malfunction of the accelerator pump.

01/04/2014 Signs of carburetor malfunction Link to main publication

The main problems and malfunctions of the carburetor

Mesh filter. With this element, there are often only two obstacles:

To feel like finding out the cause of the breakdown, the fuel filter cap is unscrewed to remove the strainer. If he just has dirt accumulated, then flushing in gasoline or blowing will help.

Textolite gasket for carburetor

If there is visible damage to the mesh filter, it is imperative to install a new one. Damage also occurs on the fuel supply pipe (when performing repairs, they practice checking this element).

The carburetor starter almost always does not work due to blockages. Should be used for flushing acetone or the same petrol.

Lawn mower filter diagnostics

Another reason for the stalling of a gasoline grass scythe can be an air filter. To eliminate it, try removing the filter and starting the grass trimmer without it. If it works out, then you will have to change the air filter to a new one, or at least blow through and thoroughly clean the old one.

The petrol grass trimmer may not start if the fuel filter is dirty. This is the next step in our algorithm. Here we check the condition of the filter element and, if necessary, replace it with a new one. When replacing, try not to leave the suction inlet without a filter at all, this is prohibited by any operating instructions. Haste can turn into repair of the engine piston group.

Weedeater 101. The two most common reasons for failure to start.

Where to start diagnostics of brushcutters

If the mower does not start or immediately stalls after starting, all major components and assemblies must be checked sequentially. The verification algorithm is as follows:

  • Fuel tank (fuel quality);
  • Candle and candle channel;
  • Air filter;
  • Fuel filter;
  • Breather;
  • Exhaust channel.

These nodes are most often the source of major problems that can be eliminated after a thorough inspection.

We carry out diagnostics of a candle and a candle channel

If the quality of the fuel mixture is clear and the mower stalls when started, then a flooded spark plug may be the cause. Here, for repairs, an ordinary candle wrench is suitable (every motorist probably has) and a spare candle.

  • We unscrew the candle and wipe it;
  • Dry it thoroughly (do not ignite);
  • We drain the excess fuel in the chamber through the spark plug hole and dry it;
  • We clean the old candle from carbon deposits using a file or a lady’s file;
  • We set a gap with a distance of 1 mm (you can check with any coin);
  • Putting everything back in place and trying to start the grass trimmer.
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It is necessary to dry the canal for at least 30–40 minutes. Otherwise, there is a risk of re-filling and a new candle.

If the candle is working, the socket where it is located is completely dry, and the mower does not want to start, lubricate the threaded connection with gasoline. It should be slightly damp. No matter how wonderful a spark the candle gives out, there is simply nothing to light up in a dry chamber.

If the grass trimmer motor still does not start, it should be ruled out that there is no spark due to poor contact between the spark plugs and the high voltage wire. If the connection is of good quality, and there is still no spark, most likely your ignition unit has “flown”. Here it will not be possible to do without a master, since the part is not repaired, but is sold as a single unit.

Why the lawn mower won’t start. troubleshooting

Caring for the backyard plot, summer residents periodically encounter the fact that the lawn mower does not start. There are many reasons for tool failure. To correctly diagnose the problem, the owner of a useful unit in the country needs to know the device and the principle of operation of its individual parts.

complex causes of lawn mower failure

If the step-by-step troubleshooting algorithm does not work, and your scythe still won’t start or stalls, it is worth inspecting the carburetor and the engine itself. A clogged carburetor can be one of the reasons for erratic tool performance. There are three main problems here:

  • Clogged ducts or nozzles. All this is cleaned by special washes or blown by a powerful jet of compressed air from the compressor. Do not use needles and wires, as the bore may be damaged;
  • Worn carburetor gasket. Exit. replacement of a failed gasket;
  • Violation of tightness. To check this indicator, you can use an ordinary household tonometer, replacing it with a suitable pressure gauge. Watch the readings: if they do not change, everything is fine, and if the pressure starts to drop, then some part of the carburetor is faulty. We’ll have to find it and replace it with a new one.

If everything is in order with the carburetor, then the petrol grass trimmer may not start due to wear of the piston group. If chips, scratches or scuffs are found on the piston or cylinder, they should be replaced. Piston rings are subject to mandatory checks. A small backlash of the piston when rocking the connecting rod indicates that it is time to change the rings. It is best to entrust this procedure to the specialists of the service center.

Checking the fuel mixture

Check the presence and quality of the fuel mixture before starting the engine. Do not save, do not be greedy and do not be clever in this matter. Repair or replacement of the piston group will cost you too much (sometimes up to 70% of the cost of a new tool). Prepare the oil-fuel mixture strictly according to the instructions. Calculate its amount based on real needs. Excess gasoline left over after work loses its quality over time.

Breather and exhaust port

Often, “gentle” branded models of petrol cutters do not start and stall due to the contamination of the breather. The main function of this element is to equalize the pressure in the gas tank. When this unit becomes clogged, a vacuum is created in the tank, which prevents the supply of fuel. You can eliminate the malfunction by cleaning the breather. You can use a regular needle for cleaning.

Normal operation of streamers with internal combustion engines can be disrupted due to the ingress of dirt into the exhaust channel or clogging of the muffler mesh. There is such a problem on older generation models. The issue can be resolved by traditional cleaning and removal of the anti-spark grid.

Rules for the operation and storage of the lawn mower

In order for the mower to start well in the future, you need to provide it with good storage and operation conditions:

  • during operation, carefully monitor the cooling system, carefully and in time clean the channels in the housing, as well as the ribs of the starter;
  • if necessary, use solvents, kerosene and other detergents for cleaning;
  • do not clean the tool “hot”. let it cool;
  • strictly follow the instructions for the operating mode, otherwise you may overheat the engine;
  • if you do not plan to use the lawn mower in the next month, the fuel mixture must be drained from it, since over time it decomposes into heavy fractions, which will definitely clog the carburetor channels;
  • after draining the fuel, let the trimmer idle until it stalls, this will help completely remove the remaining working mixture.

Follow these steps before winter storage:

  • disassemble the braid completely, rinse and clean all the details you can;
  • inspect the parts for damage, if necessary, eliminate distortions, tears, bends and any other malfunctions;
  • fill in a sufficient amount of oil into the gearbox and clean the air filter;
  • you can partially disassemble the motor, rinse, blow out and grease all moving parts;
  • in order to lubricate the piston, you need to unscrew the spark plug, lift the piston to the dead center with the starter, pour a little oil into the spark plug hole and turn the crankshaft a couple of times;
  • if you are storing the mower outside the home, wrap the engine with an oily rag.

Remember, careful observance of the rules will allow you to forget about the bad start of the lawn mower for several seasons.

Insufficient compression

If the compression is insufficient, then in most cases it will not work to start the engine. You can use a car compression gauge to check the compression.

  • Unscrew the spark plug from the internal combustion engine cylinder.
  • Screw a compression gauge in its place.
  • Begin to pull on the starter cord as you would when starting the lawnmower. Do this until the arrow on the measuring device stops moving upward. This value will show the compression force of this engine.

What kind of compression should be? Normally, the compression should be at least 8 kg / cm 2. Although even at 8 kg / cm 2, some engines do not idle and stall, since the fuel is not pumped up sufficiently. If your mower does not pump above 8 kg / cm 2.then you will have to check the cylinder, piston and rings.

Also, poor compression can be due to a loosely screwed carburetor. Check if he is wobbling. If so, tighten the hardware that holds it securely. Also, if the carburetor is poorly screwed on, you may notice that gasoline drips during operation.

Why the gasoline grass trimmer won’t start

The reasons why the petrol grass trimmer stopped starting may be different, so a step-by-step diagnosis of the device is required.

Petrol trimmer breakage

Typical breakdowns of the gasoline grass trimmer, which the owners of this unit most often encounter, are as follows:

  • engine breakdown;
  • carburetor problems;
  • fuel supply problems;
  • muffler malfunction;
  • breakdown of the gearbox;
  • the starter has broken;
  • air filter problems;
  • gas tank breather clogged.

Exhaust channel

The reason that the grass trimmer has lost a lot of power, and when trying to increase the engine speed, it picks up slowly, is often a clogged exhaust duct through which exhaust gases escape from the combustion chamber.

It is necessary to remove the muffler so that no fumes get into the cylinder. Next, clean the exhaust channel from carbon deposits.

This must be done very carefully, avoiding the ingress of carbon deposits into the combustion chamber.

After this procedure, the weak power of the unit and a slow increase in the speed of rotation of the mowing head will no longer upset you.

Electric grass trimmer vibrates

Many mower users have noticed that after a while after the machine starts to work, it starts to vibrate strongly. On some trimmers, mostly in more expensive models, an anti-vibration system is installed in the form of shock absorbers located between the engine and the boom. But in some cases, even it does not save from strong vibration. The reason that a strong vibration appears in the trimmer may be a small amount or a complete lack of lubrication on the rigid or flexible shaft located inside the apparatus bar.

Rigid shaft lubrication is changed as follows:

  • unscrew the gearbox located at the bottom of the rod;
  • after removing the gearbox, you will see the end of the shaft, which must be pulled to remove the part;
  • after removing the shaft, it must be abundantly lubricated with special grease “Shrus-4” or the usual one. “Litol-24”;
  • apply a small amount of grease to the shaft and spread it evenly along the entire length of the part, including the splines at the ends of the rod (if they work, the shaft will have to be replaced);
  • after lubrication, insert the shaft back into the rod and put the gearbox in its original place.

The flexible shaft is lubricated as follows:

  • unscrew and remove the mowing head;
  • remove the rod from the electric motor by unscrewing a couple of bolts;
  • pull the flexible cable out of the rod;
  • lubricate the cable with grease along the entire length.

This is done like this: first you need to lubricate the end of the cable, and then insert it into the rod, after which, as it moves inside the pipe, you should apply lubricant to the part and distribute it evenly over the surface. Then insert the flexible shaft rod into the electric motor and secure it.

In the case when the lubrication did not help, and the vibration continues to appear, you will need to change the flexible shaft.

The main malfunctions of gasoline and electric trimmers

With the lawn mower and electric grass trimmer, apart from damage to the boom and mowing head, malfunctions mainly occur in the area of ​​the engine.

Fuel tank (fuel quality)

Remember that it is always necessary to check the availability and quality of fuel before starting the unit. In this case, you should not be greedy and save, as well as “be smart” about the amount of added oil. Everything must be done in accordance with the manual attached to the device, since if the piston group fails, its replacement will cost about 70% of the total cost of the grass trimmer. Fill in fuel on the basis that you will completely use it up when performing work. The gasoline remaining in the tank loses its properties after a while and can harm the engine. Therefore, do not prepare the mixture for future use and in large quantities. If the mower does not start well, try draining the “old” fuel from the tank and refueling it with fresh mixture.

Important! Filling the device with fuel, the origin of which is unknown, is fraught with negative consequences. Gasoline must be of high quality, purchased at a gas station, and its brand must be at least AI-95.

Malfunctions of electric trimmers

Since the device of an electric mower is much simpler than a motor trimmer, there are few reasons for its failure.

It should be noted that it is better to entrust the elimination of some of them to a specialist.

Basically, the grass trimmer stops working properly in the following cases:

  • malfunction of the electrical cable;
  • the control button is faulty;
  • burned out motor stator winding;
  • breakage of contact connections on the engine.