Gasoline in the crankcase of the tiller engine cause

Gasoline got into the engine oil: what to do for the driver

As you know, experts and experienced car enthusiasts recommend checking the oil level at least once a week. Let us note right away that there are quite good reasons for this. Also, regular checks allow not only to timely detect a decrease in the level of lubricant in the engine, but also to assess the form and condition of the lubricant.

In this article, we will consider the situation when, during the check, it was revealed that the oil in the engine smells like gasoline, gasoline is clearly visible in the engine oil, the reasons for this phenomenon and how to solve this problem.

How does gasoline get into the engine oil and what can be the consequences

So, the very topic of the article allows you to answer the question of whether gasoline can get into the engine oil. Indeed, fuel can end up in oil, even in engines with a fully serviceable cylinder-piston group.

Let’s go further. This problem is quite serious and can lead to malfunctions, a significant reduction in the resource of the motor, as well as to the complete failure of the power plant. Let’s take a look at why this happens.

To begin with, gasoline in oil significantly impairs the protective properties of the lubricant and dilutes the lubricant. Without going into details, the more gasoline enters the crankcase, the more serious the consequences can be.

• With a small amount of fuel in the lubricant, the engine can run more noisily, while the wear of the loaded units will slightly increase. To solve the problem, it will be enough to eliminate the problem of gasoline flow into the crankcase and replace the engine oil.
• In other cases, driving on highly diluted fuel oil can cause the engine to require costly overhauls.

In the list of the main signs that, to one degree or another, may indicate the appearance of the problem under consideration, the following are noted:

• the power unit loses its power, there is a noticeable excessive fuel consumption;
• the exhaust becomes thick, grayish, has the smell of unburned gasoline;
• there are malfunctions in the operation of the internal combustion engine, the engine begins to triple, stall;
• the engine began to run noisily, knocking appeared in the area of ​​the pistons, crankshaft, etc.
• the level of lubricant in the crankcase is increased, while the smell of gasoline in the engine oil is clearly audible;
• the grease is thinned, a drop of engine oil easily ignites from an open fire;

A black outline in the center of the spot indicates the presence of efficient additives in the lubricant. We also note that this method is also useful for a general check of the quality, condition of the oil, detecting the presence of water and other impurities in it.

If any of the above signs were noticed (noise during operation, knocking, overruns, grease thinning, fuel smell, a drop on the sheet when checking differs from normal), then you should prepare for the fact that there may be gasoline in the oil.

As already mentioned, the consequences of further driving on such a mixture can be different. The main thing is that gasoline is a rather aggressive product in relation to lubricants, since it contains a large amount of chemical additives.

The engine oil also contains a whole package of additives, while these additives are not designed for direct contact with fuel. In other words, there is an irreversible change in the physical and chemical properties of the engine oil. For this reason, an increase in the oil level due to gasoline is a serious threat to the engine.

With regard to gasoline in the lubricant, a certain danger is that, quite often, the fuel dilutes the lubricant gradually, that is, it enters in small quantities. This means that the driver does not notice the problem for a long time, continuing to operate the unit as usual. In this case, the wear of the motor increases greatly. Now let’s get down to how gasoline gets into oil.

Where does gasoline get into the oil: troubleshooting

To understand why gasoline is in engine oil, it is necessary to refer to the design features of various internal combustion engines.

• First of all, on any engine (injector, carburetor), fuel enters the crankcase from the combustion chamber through the piston rings. It is important to understand that if you pour gasoline into the cylinders of a new engine, after a while it will be in the oil. The reason is simple. the fuel washes off the oil film and passes through leaks at the locations of the piston rings.
• For engines with a carburetor, a frequent cause of gasoline getting into oil is damage to the gas pump diaphragm. Another reason for diluting the oil with fuel is a problem with the carburetor needle valve in the float chamber, fuel overflow into the carburetor, etc.

In view of the above, it becomes clear that the main reason for gasoline getting into the lubricant is problems with the power supply or ignition system, as well as with the internal combustion engine itself. It turns out that problems can occur due to the fact that:

• there is a significant re-enrichment of the working mixture;
• there were malfunctions of fuel injectors, carburetor, mechanical fuel pump;
• the ignition system is faulty or does not work correctly;
• the engine is faulty or worn out, there is no necessary compression in the cylinders, the fuel does not ignite;

In other words, the fuel can be supplied in excess, but the rich mixture is not flammable. Also, gasoline does not burn, since there is no spark on the spark plug or the charge does not burn due to low compression in the internal combustion engine. In any case, unburned fuel enters the crankcase.

It is also recommended to carry out computer diagnostics of the engine, evaluate the quality of mixture formation, separately “ring” the ECM sensors, which can affect the formation of the mixture. On carburetor ICEs, the condition of the fuel pump diaphragms is monitored, the carburetor is regularly adjusted and diagnosed.

Before a cold start (especially in winter), you need to periodically monitor so that no flowing gasoline appears or accumulates under the carburetor. If such a phenomenon has been noticed, then the carburetor should be checked.

In parallel, you need to pay attention to a special drainage tube. If the tube becomes clogged, excess fuel, in the event of problems with the needle valve, begins to enter the crankcase of the internal combustion engine. Now let’s take a look at the most common causes in more detail.

Given that the fuel supply system on different engines can be very different, the paths of gasoline entering the lubrication system are also different. On engines with an injector, gasoline is supplied from a fuel tank under pressure, which is created by an electric fuel pump. At this stage, oil and fuel cannot mix in any way.

• At the same time, a mechanical gas pump is installed on the carburetor engines. The diaphragm of such a pump pumps gasoline into the carburetor mounted on the engine. The rod of the mechanical pump on some cars is driven by an eccentric, and is also lubricated with engine oil in the same way as the camshaft.

In the event that the membrane has large ruptures, gasoline ceases to be supplied to the carburetor, the internal combustion engine is difficult to start, jerks and dips appear when driving, the unit is unstable, etc. To eliminate the malfunction, you need to replace the fuel pump membrane, as well as engine oil.

• On the injector, most of the problems are associated with injectors, since an experienced driver immediately fixes ignition failures. complex is the situation in which one or more injectors cannot close tightly. This means that after stopping the engine, the fuel, which is in the fuel rail under residual pressure, flows into the manifold, then enters the cylinders, and then flows into the crankcase.

Piston rings to some extent prevent gasoline from falling into the oil, but if they are worn out or stuck, then the fuel relatively freely falls into the oil sump. To solve the problem, you need to remove the fuel rail, after which the tightness of each injection nozzle is checked.

For this, flushing liquid or kerosene is supplied to the injector under pressure, and the opening and closing of the nozzle from the power source is initiated. You can also use a special stand for checking and cleaning the injectors. If the injectors are leaking, then they need to be repaired or replaced.

• As for the ignition system, if the mixture does not ignite in one of the cylinders or in several, then part of the fuel flies out into the exhaust system, and the remaining parts simply settle on the cylinder walls, then flow into the crankcase of the internal combustion engine.

• CPG wear is a common problem in carburetor and injection ICEs. As a rule, we are talking about the wear of the compression and oil scraper rings. In such a situation, the fuel is actively draining into the crankcase. However, it is important to consider that problems with the rings also lead to a decrease in compression.

It turns out that the mixture compresses worse and burns out incompletely, the engine loses power. The driver presses on the gas harder, supplying more fuel to the combustion chamber, but combustion does not occur in full. Excess fuel leads to contamination of the engine and the formation of carbon deposits, and also partially gets into the crankcase.

What is the bottom line

As you can see, if gasoline gets into the oil, then the engine should not be operated until the breakdown is eliminated. This phenomenon is especially dangerous when the driver did not know about the problem, that is, a large amount of gasoline has accumulated in the crankcase, the pressure in the lubrication system has dropped, the emergency oil pressure light on the dashboard lit up.

Finally, we add that in some cases the fuel itself may refuse to cause ineffective combustion of the mixture in the cylinders. The fact is that gasoline is often of very poor quality.

Fuel mixed with third-party additives burns worse. Unburned residues can also enter the crankcase. In some cases, it is enough to change the oil and start refueling at another gas station.

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Also, in some sources, for prevention purposes, it is recommended to periodically turn the engine to high revs for a short period of time while traveling along the highway. Driving this way causes the oil to heat up, which helps to reduce accumulated condensation and trapped fuel.

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Removal and installation of the tiller engine

Place the tiller on a level surface and clear any dirt.

Remove the shield, disconnect the throttle cable from the carburetor board, loosen the mounting bolts of the bracket with the restricting pins of the drive belt. Remove the four engine mounting bolts. Turn it slightly to the left and remove the belt from the crankshaft pulley. Remove the freed engine from the chassis.

Note: the fenders can be removed first to facilitate access to the engine mounting bolts.

Install the engine on the chiller in the reverse order of removal.

Checking the technical condition of the tiller’s gas distribution mechanism

During operation, the camshaft cams, the plates fixing the spring on the valve stem are subject to wear on the gas distribution mechanism, loss of tightness of the working surfaces of valves and seats, deformation of the intake valve stem (as a rule, as a result of installing a plug with a long skirt on the engine).

If you find signs of defects in the operation of the valves, dismantle the fuel tank, remove the cylinder head, muffler, carburetor and valve box.

Check the tightness of the contact between the valves and the seats, for which pour kerosene (or gasoline) on the valve heads. With serviceable parts, there should be no kerosene leak under the valve into the valve box.

Remove the defective valve, for which press the valve spring up with a screwdriver, unfold the plate so that it comes out of the seat and releases the valve from the spring. Remove the spring and valve.

In the case of fastening the valve spring with crackers, it is necessary, after pressing the valve spring up, to disengage and remove the crackers.

Before assembly, the working surfaces of the valves must be ground to the working surfaces of the cylinder block seats in two stages: first with a grinding paste diluted with engine oil, then without a paste with lubrication of the grinding surfaces with engine oil alone. Lapping stops when a closed annular belt with a width of at least 1 mm appears on the working surfaces. At the end of lapping, rinse the parts thoroughly with gasoline and wipe with a clean cloth.

Lubricate the stem of the lapped valve with engine oil, insert it into the guide sleeve and check for a 0.15-0.3 mm gap between the valve and the tappet. When measuring, the pusher must be in the lowest position. The required clearance is provided either by grinding the end of the valve if the clearance is less than the allowable one, or by selecting the valve if the clearance is greater than the norm. The increased clearance can also be caused by wear on the camshaft cams.

Install the valves in the cylinder block, put on the springs, press the spring up with two screwdrivers and lock it with the valve plate (or crackers).

After assembling the valves, reinstall the valve box, carburetor, muffler, cylinder head and fuel tank.

Checking the technical condition of the crank mechanism

Before disassembling the engine, check the value of the axial play of the crankshaft, which should not exceed 1-1.5mm. The increased backlash caused by bearing wear, without replacing them, can be eliminated without disassembling the engine. For this:

• Dismantle the pulley from the crankshaft, remove the bearing cover and settle it;
• Make a ring out of soft wire, corresponding to the diameter of the outer bearing race, and install it between the cover and the bearing, without blocking the oil channel;
• Replace the cover.

Disassembled at the crankshaft, check the absence of chipping of the gear teeth, wear of the journal and the absence of sagging of aluminum alloy on it (which happens after the engine is jammed due to insufficient lubrication of the connecting rod to the journal of the crankshaft).

Remove sagging by cleaning the neck with a file (until slipping), then finishing the surface with sandpaper and rinsing the neck.

Inspect the keyway on the crankshaft taper. The flywheel key must fit into the groove without effort and must not have lateral play.

The piston must be free of carbon deposits on the bottom and in the piston ring grooves. Cracks of any nature on the piston, pin and connecting rod are unacceptable, such parts require replacement.

Pistons in diameter must be selected from the same size group as the cylinder block (see the previous table). The piston size group is marked with an Arabic numeral (1, 2 or 3) on its bottom.

The piston, pin and connecting rod are also assembled from the same size groups, marked with a colored mark:

The pin and connecting rod to be replaced must be of the correct piston size group.

The DM-1D engine uses standard “Zhiguli” piston rings 76mm. Practice shows that the oil scraper ring working edges wear out first.

The suitability of the rings for work can be checked by measuring a set of gap probes in the lock when installing the ring without a piston into the cylinder. The gap should be between 0.3. 0.5mm. If the gap is insufficient, file down the joint surfaces, and if it is increased, replace the rings. Piston rings are usually replaced as a complete set.

Tiller engine assembly

Before assembling the engine, clean and rinse the assemblies and parts to be assembled. Lubricate the engine cylinder, pushers, piston with connecting rod, crankshaft journals before installation with engine oil.

Place the cylinder block in place. Insert the crankshaft into the cylinder block support bearing.

Using a mandrel (Fig. 24) with a tapered bore, insert the piston in the connecting rod into the cylinder. In the absence of a special mandrel for crimping the rings when installing the piston, it is possible to use a sheet of tin and pliers.

mandrel; 2. piston; 3. cylinder block

When installing the piston, it is necessary to ensure that the piston rings do not jam in the piston grooves, the compression rings were installed with a 180-degree shift of the locks, the oil-cleaning ring. with a 90-degree shift in relation to the upper compression ring lock.

Place the lower connecting rod head on the crankshaft journal, put on the connecting rod cap, oil spray, lock washer and tighten to a torque: 15 5 Nm beforehand, 25 2 Nm finally. Bend the locking tab of the lock washer.

Install the pushers in the cylinder block (to prevent them from falling out, turn the cylinder block to the side wall).

Install the camshaft so that the mark on the crankshaft gear tooth is opposite the mark on the camshaft gear cavity.

Turn the crankshaft, while checking that the oil spray nozzle does not touch the wall of the cylinder block.

Check the ease of rotation of the gear of the centrifugal regulator with weights on the axis of the cylinder block cover.

Tighten the cylinder block cover bolts (gradually). Final tightening torque 15. 20 Nm.

Install the key on the taper of the crankshaft and put on the flywheel with washer.

With a technological nut (M18), pre-tighten with a torque (120. 130) Nm to fit the flywheel onto the crankshaft cone.

Lubricate the inner cavity of the ratchet clutch housing with a thin layer of LITOL-24 grease, put it on and tighten it with a torque of (40. 60) Nm.

Put the ring and ratchet on the end of the crankshaft. Lubricate the balls of the clutch with engine oil, install them in the clutch housing, put on the cover and the protective guard.

Install the head with gasket, screen and fuel tank mounting bracket on the cylinder block.

Tighten the bolts, fastening the head to a torque of (15. 20) Nm crosswise through two bolts.

Check and, if necessary, adjust the gap between the stator and the magnetic shoe in accordance with the section (Checking and adjusting the ignition system “.

Install the fan housing, reflector, protective cover.

Install the key and pulley on the crankshaft.

Put the air filter on the carburetor connection, install the fuel tank and the gas hose.

Fill the cylinder block crankcase with oil.

Diagnostics of malfunctions and repair of the MB type tiller engine. Part 2.

Checking and adjusting the fuel supply system

If there is no fuel supply to the cylinder (dry plug), check that there is a sufficient amount of fuel in the fuel tank, the flow of fuel from the fuel tank to the carburetor by removing the fuel hose from the carburetor inlet fitting (or, for the K45 carburetor, by pressing on its thickener until fuel leaks through the drain hole).

If fuel does not flow to the carburetor, unscrew the fuel cock, disassemble it, clean the filter element from dirt, rinse the parts in gasoline. Assemble the fuel cock, purge and reinstall.

When fuel enters the carburetor (and there is no fuel in the cylinder), check the operation of the fuel valve and the cleanliness of the carburetor jets.

To check the KMB-5 carburetor, remove the carburetor from the engine, drain the gasoline from the float chamber. Supply air through the fuel inlet (fig. 25) in the operating position of the carburetor. The air must be free to blow through. Repeat the operation with the carburetor inverted 180 degrees. The passage of air through the fitting should stop. When these conditions are met, the fuel valve is operational.

Adjust the fuel level in the float chamber by bending or bending the float adjustment tab. The normal fuel level is considered to be 30-35mm.

fuel inlet fitting; 2. upper case; 3. throttle valve; 4. idle needle; 5. air jet; 6. lower case; 7. air damper; 8.screw fastening the tie; 9. full throttle needle; 10. atomizer; 11. float; 12.fuel valve

To purge the nozzles, unscrew the low and full throttle adjusting screws.

To flush the carburetor elements, unscrew the screws of the upper case, remove the lower case, flush the fuel valve with gasoline, clean and blow through the nozzles with a pump, check the integrity of the float. Wiping carburetor parts with a rag is not allowed.

After flushing and purging, attach the lower carburetor case to the upper, paying attention to the spray tube, which should enter the hole in the upper case. Open the throttle and check if the assembly is correct, then tighten the screws that secure the upper housing.

The carburetor installed after disassembly requires adjustment.

Carry out carburetor adjustments with the engine warm in the following sequence.

Screw in the throttle and low throttle adjustment screws (fig. 25) as far as they will go (without great effort), then unscrew them 1.5 turns. Start the engine, warm up for 10 minutes. Set the engine control lever to the position of the minimum stable RPM without stopping the engine. Using the throttle stop screw, set the minimum idle speed at which the engine runs stably, without interruptions.

By adjusting the position of the idle screw, set the maximum idle speed, then use the throttle stop screw to correct the minimum stable idle speed.

Repeat the last two steps to achieve stable, uninterrupted engine idling with the lowest possible rpm.

Move the engine control lever to the throttle position. If the engine malfunctions, unscrew the full throttle screw until stable operation is obtained, but not more than 2.5 turns.

The K45 carburetor is adjusted in a similar manner using adjusting screws (fig. 14):

throttle valve stop;

adjustments to the composition of the fuel mixture at idle.

Turning screw 5, set the lowest possible, but stable engine speed. Using screw 8, set the maximum (by ear), but stable engine speed and from this position turn it by ¼ turn.

Repeat the last operations until you get a stable, uninterrupted n = engine operation at the lowest possible speed.

Bring the engine to the mode and, if the engine runs intermittently or stalls, tighten screw 8 another ¼ turn and repeat the previous operations.

If the carburetor DM1.08.100 is installed on the engine, use the following adjustment method.

WHY IS MY CRANKCASE FULL OF GAS? TOP 4 REASONS WHY

Tighten screw 10 (fig. 26) at idle until it stops and unscrew ½ turn.

Tighten the full throttle screw 9 as far as it will go and unscrew it 2 turns.

Unscrew screw 4 (Fig. 22) of minimum turns until the lever stops against the carburetor body lug and tighten it 2 turns.

Start the engine, after warming up with screw 9 (fig. 26) adjust stable operation at maximum speed.

Move the engine control lever to the position of the minimum throttle (rpm), preventing it from turning off, and by unscrewing the screw 10, adjust the stable idle rpm.

inlet fitting; 2. fuel valve; 3. membrane cavity; 4. membrane; 5.spring; 6. button; 7. check valve; 8. fuel supply channel; 9. full throttle screw; 10. idle screw; 11. idle jets; 12. throttle valve; 13.chamber mixing.

Repeat checking the stability of the engine at maximum and minimum speeds according to the above method, making adjustments if necessary, achieve stable engine operation in all modes.

If you get an unstable operation at idle rpm, change the position of the throttle valve with screw 4 (Fig. 22) of the minimum rpm by turning or unscrewing the screw, and repeat the adjustments described above.

The motor control drive is adjusted in the following sequence.

With the engine off, loosen nut 4 (Fig. 15) of bolt 5 tightening the split part of the regulator lever 6. Using a screwdriver inserted into the slot of the lever 2 of the regulator rod, turn the lever clockwise until it stops, then tighten nut 4. This ensures full opening of the throttle valve carburetor (throttle cable lever is in position (maximum throttle).

Check the correctness of the adjustment, for which set the throttle cable lever to the “minimum throttle” position, shake the regulator lever 6 by hand. it should have free play until the carburetor throttle valve is fully open.

Checking the technical condition of units and parts of the cylinder block

The cylinder block must not have cracks and other mechanical damage to the crankcase. Check the cylinder mirror, which should not have deep scratches, scuffs.

Dimensional groups of the cylinder block (marked with Arabic numerals (shown in the table, in which the dimensions of the mating piston are indicated in brackets).

If the cylinder is worn more than 0.15mm, the block must be replaced.

Gas in the oil. How did it get there. a bad fuel solenoid/float. needle seat

Check the integrity of the camshaft bearing bushings. Broken and worn bushings must be replaced.

Check for dents on the running surfaces of the pinion follower with the weights of the centrifugal regulator.

The cylinder head must be free of carbon deposits and mechanical damage. If there is carbon deposits, remove it with an aluminum plate, replace the defective head.

Check the integrity of the cover and cylinder head gaskets. The head gasket should not have in the transverse direction through traces of gas breakthrough from the combustion chamber in the form of carbon deposits. Dented and torn gaskets are unacceptable. Defective gaskets must be replaced.

Diluting the oil with gasoline

Checking the oil level in the crankcase of the engine, the car owner may notice a change in consistency, color, or the appearance of an odor. The design of a four-stroke engine does not provide for mixing oil with anything, therefore gasoline or water in the crankcase are serious malfunctions that require urgent repair. Fuel ingress into the engine oil sump leads to increased wear of all rubbing elements, which accelerates the need for overhaul of the power plant.

To diagnose the presence of gasoline in the crankcase, it is recommended:

• Take a closer look at the exhaust. If it turns gray and smells of gasoline, then unburned fuel from the cylinder enters the container with oil;
• Listen to the engine running at different speeds. Trocking, unstable operation and the presence of extraneous knocks signal the possibility of gasoline entering the crankcase;
• The oil level is increased because it does not fit in the container assigned to it;
• The lubricant is visually thinned due to the presence of fuel in it;
• Slight ignition of a drop of engine oil when exposed to an open flame.

If you have enough time, you can check the gasoline in the crankcase as follows:

• Take a blank sheet of paper;
• Make a small drop with a dipstick;
• Dry the sheet for several hours;
• An even contour will indicate a good condition of the lubricant.

The “oil spot” method can detect not only fuel, but also water, antifreeze and other impurities for which the engine is not designed.

Engine crankcase: common faults

The crankcase is the largest hollow part of the vehicle. It is connected to the block of cylinders through a special rubberized gasket to prevent oil leakage. Engine crankcase volume depends on engine power and the type of vehicle on which it is used.

The purpose of the engine crankcase and its structure

The crankcase is designed to install the crankshaft and related engine parts. Its lower part is made in the form of a pallet made of stamping from sheet steel. Since the crankcase is subjected to mechanical stress, special transverse stiffeners are used in it. They contain seats for support bearings of the crankshaft and camshaft.

The pallet, which is bolted to the crankcase, has several functions:

• protection of the crank mechanism from contamination;
• a reservoir for collecting oil that is not currently being used;
• deposition of small abrasive elements, mainly of metallic origin.

The crankcase has outlets for the crankshaft. To prevent oil leakage, rubber or felt oil seals are used. For greater sealing of the system, grooves of a special configuration are used in the crankcase.

A special hole is used to drain the oil from the crankcase. It is closed with a threaded plug. In cold climates, it is possible to screw in a plug with a built-in heating element designed for preheating the engine oil.

Features of crankcases for two-stroke and diesel engines

The design of a two-stroke engine involves the use of a crankcase as part of the fuel system. It prepares a mixture for ignition in the cylinder. A feature is the absence of independent circuits of gasoline and oil, therefore, all rubbing surfaces are lubricated with a petrol-oil mixture, which affects their resource for the worse.

The crankcase of a diesel engine works in more difficult conditions, since the working pressure for igniting the fuel mixture is greater than the pressure generated in the gasoline engine. Working on liquefied oil is capable of disabling a diesel engine in a shorter time, since a tighter adhesion of surfaces is required to create high compression.

Regardless of what device of the engine and what reason causes the presence of impurities in the crankcase, troubleshooting should be as fast as possible. Having driven several tens of kilometers on liquefied oil, the car owner can damage the engine so much that it will not be possible to get out of the situation without major repairs.

Assembly and operation

The owner of the territory of the dacha, purchasing the device “Neva”, already becomes the owner of a fully assembled and ready-to-use device, but in order to start working with it, it is necessary to adjust the main components, for example, the fuel system and the engine. The valve system settings will allow the engine to start and function smoothly. To do this, disassemble the carburetor and unscrew the screws from the upper and lower housing and clean all these elements. Only then is it recommended to start changing the setting of the motor valves. First of all, the screws are screwed in to the end to adjust the gas to the minimum limit, after which they are unscrewed and the engine itself is started.

It should be remembered that before fixing something in the valve system, the engine warms up for about five minutes. After that, the lever is set to the lowest position, this will maintain stable rpm. After that, the motor is tuned at the minimum speed, when it works stably and without interruptions. By following the tips for using the device, you can prolong its life for a long time.

• The direction of the legs should be observed, which should be located in the direction of how the device moves when installing the device used for cultivation.
• Additionally, you should connect the load if the wheels skid during operation, when the device is in reverse.

• Use only clean and high quality fuel correctly.
• The use of a damper adapted to cut off the air supply when an unheated apparatus starts to work. If the motor is hot, then this element should not be closed.
• After starting from the throttle position, position XX is set, after which the engine should be heated for three minutes. When the motor engine is warming up, it is prohibited to set the number of revolutions to the maximum.
• Oil should not get into the element that filters the air, this must be monitored.
• Before using the device, you should read the instructions and carefully study them.

Why does the tiller work intermittently??

Among other typical tiller malfunctions, a number of such breakdowns can also be distinguished:

• The motor of the unit hits the return line. this indicates the use of low-quality fuel for refueling the unit. In this case, you will have to not only replace the fuel, but also thoroughly flush the fuel pump and fuel supply hoses;
• the tiller works in jerks. the reason for this lies in the insufficient heating of the motor. Be sure to turn off the engine, wait for it to cool completely, and start the engine again, giving it at least 10 minutes to fully warm up;
• The tiller motor does not noticeably pull, the engine power has decreased. in this case, you need to check and, if necessary, clean the air and fuel filter. Another reason for this breakdown lies in the wear of the magneto ignition system. It is best to replace the part immediately without trying to repair it.

The owner of both a gasoline and diesel tiller is equally often faced with this kind of malfunction. In any case, you must immediately stop working with the machine and repair the breakdown as soon as possible.

tiller neva mb 2 swim speed

tiller is one of the most useful household units. Even a simple and not very powerful machine can significantly facilitate the care of the garden and the surrounding area. At the same time, a tiller is a technique that tends to break down. Let’s look at the most common breakdowns of an agricultural unit, their causes and methods of elimination on our own.

• Why does the tiller stall under load?
• Why does the tiller work intermittently??
• Why Tiller Shoots the Silencer?
• tiller starts and stalls. reasons and repair
• Tiller’s engine does not start well when hot
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• If the tiller, swims, turns!
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• Read also from the heading
• Gasoline In Tiller Crankcase Cause
• How to Install a Chinese Engine on a Tiller
• How to Install the Engine on the Tiller Cascade
• Device and main characteristics
• Assembly and operation
• Frequent malfunctions and their causes
• Troubleshooting

Tiller’s engine does not start well when hot

The question of why the tiller motor stalls when heated is quite simple to solve. The whole essence of the problem lies in the excess air supplied to the tiller‘s carburetor. Part of it is mixed with a mixture of gasoline and engine oil, and the second part cools the carburetor. As a result, the temperature of the carburetor becomes much lower than the temperature of the engine of the unit. This problem is observed only during the tiller operation. When its engine is turned off, the carburetor, on the contrary, lends itself to heating from the side of the hot walls of the engine.

During the heating of the tiller carburetor, the remaining fuel begins to actively evaporate, filling all the voids in the tiller device, including the air filter and the intake manifold. This leads to the complete disappearance of fuel, due to which the tiller does not start when the engine is heated.

To fix this problem, it is necessary to act in a certain algorithm every time the tiller is hot. Your main task is to achieve a combination of the mixture so that the engine can start. This will require:

• In the process of starting a hot engine, squeeze the gas trigger halfway;
• Do not try to pull the gas trigger over and over again, otherwise this will only aggravate the situation, since during frequent pressing of the gas trigger, the fuel pump will supply new portions of fuel to the carburetor, which will lead to flooding of the engine;
• After several attempts to start with the throttle trigger half pressed, you will start the tiller engine, after which you will need to gas it 2-3 times and continue working.

This procedure will eliminate the increased load on the hot motor, so that the main parts and mechanisms of the tiller will not succumb to excessive wear.

All of the above methods will help to effectively cope with typical breakdowns of the most famous tiller manufacturers. They are equally successfully used by the owners of agricultural units of the brands Honda, Agro, Kaskad and Neva.

In this topic, we will get acquainted to disassemble malfunctions of tillers and cultivators of all brands, Salute. Neva, Bison, etc., and elimination of these defects and repair. Most of the problems are common to all types of tillers, their engines and other nodes.

It often happens that a previously serviceable tiller that served for a couple of years suddenly loses power.

How to Install a Chinese Engine on a Tiller

The agricultural branch evenly includes means of small-scale mechanization, which makes it possible to significantly simplify the process of carrying out earthworks. An important role in this matter is played by tillers from different manufacturers, which are distinguished by their own compactness and relatively high power, depending on the type of motor used. In the country, Russian aggregates are usually popular, familiar to many since Russian times. Specifically, we are talking about a tiller [.]

Snow-white smoke is pouring out of the tiller, he starts working in the “bucket”.

The cultivator issued several claps, the revolutions began to “float”

The material will be updated, we are waiting for comments with questions, stories about identifying one or another malfunction and methods for its elimination. Also, see the answers to questions on this or that model of the tiller on the page of its description.

Device and main characteristics

The device “MB 2” is very popular nowadays; it is simply irreplaceable in agriculture. This line for compact tillers is produced under the same brand, but has a difference in the engine:

• “Neva” with a 2K index is equipped with a domestically produced motor, so the price of such a device is much lower than that of foreign analogues;
• the second 2B abbreviation indicates that this mini-tractor has an imported engine;
• abbreviation 2C denotes professional elements in the structure of the apparatus, which are used for cultivating the land.

The characteristics of the motor should be taken into account when choosing a unit in order to successfully process the required amount of land, whether it is a dozen acres of land or a much larger area. The design of the unit is the following system.

• The gear chain type reducer is located in a specialized case, which is made of aluminum. Its main task is the high speed of the unit. The apparatus has four forward gears and a couple back to carry out a coup. Its maximum speed is 12 kilometers per hour, so this device can even be used to transport goods.

• This small tractor uses a starter motor to start.
• The frame, which acts as a support, has special bartacks, which are located at the back and front and are used as devices for working on weight.
• There are certain levers on the steering device that are used during the operation of the mini-tractor.
• V-belt type transmission produces the transmission of the clutch assembly from a pulley, a special lever and a V-belt.
• The unit is compact and light, even a very heavy version weighs only 97 kilograms. This unit is easy to deliver anywhere, even in a regular car.

The unit with the abbreviation MB 2 has tremendous capabilities; it can perform a large amount of work in agriculture, such as: land plowing, cultivation, planting seeds, the process of hilling and weeding between rows and harvesting. All this “Neva” produces with the help of a large selection of equipment, which is used in hinged form, as well as thanks to a large number of innovations. The features of the technical plan are presented by the “Neva” MB 2 apparatus as follows:

• it is recommended to refuel the unit only with gasoline;
• power equipment 7.6 liters. from.;
• Russian engine DM-1K, 4-stroke engine with a single cylinder;

• there is a motor with a volume of 317 cubic meters;
• the engine is started manually;
• air and liquid cooling;
• tank volume 2.8 l;
• gear editor, chain;
• fuel consumption is 2.9 liters per hour.

Other salient features are:

• during cultivation, the grip is 160 cm;
• the depth of the earthen plot is 16-26 cm;
• tractor length 1750 mm, height 1350 mm, width 630 mm;
• about twelve acres per hour is able to work this mini-tractor.

Engine runs intermittently

If the engine starts, but does not develop the required power, runs intermittently, stalls, etc., the reasons for this may be the following malfunctions:

Read also, information on how to make a trailer for a trailer with your own hands.

Engine won’t start

Tiller engine repair

In this material, we will consider typical malfunctions of a tiller engine and how to fix them.

Typically, there are two types of engine faults:

The engine does not start.

The engine runs unsatisfactorily (does not gain power, runs intermittently, engine stops).

If the engine does not start, then in search of malfunctions and their further elimination, you should perform the following steps to identify the causes.

What to do if the tiller engine does not turn off

If the tiller’s engine does not turn off, first of all, you need to pay attention to the operation of the shutdown button. It is necessary to disassemble it, check it and, if necessary, replace or clean the contacts.