Gearbox for a motor-block with your own hands

Rules of Selection

The converter for the motor-block can be made with your own hands, but if you do not have skills in this matter, it is better to buy it. There are quality modifications on the market, the price of which varies according to different parameters.

• Quality of materials for the components.
• Number of options that the reducer performs.
• Manufacturer.
• The presence or absence of reverse.
• Power. When choosing, you should give preference to the characteristics of the machine, not a lot of power, i.e.к. Capacities of the gearbox and motor must match.
• Design.
• Service life. If you choose the right technique, it will last 7-15 years, which depends on the type of transmission.

For a small machine, a centrifugal clutch is often used in the transmission. Its essence is that the movement doesn’t start when the engine starts and warms up. This is convenient, because in winter regions you can not move off the ground or start work without preparation.

Engines without a centrifugal clutch are more affordable, so everyone chooses which is more important.

When buying a converter, remember about the motor parameters. Before choosing a gearbox, you need to think about the oil that will be put into it. It matters, because it guarantees efficient and trouble-free operation.

In addition to the above, the choice of converter may be affected:

• climate. If the vehicle will be used in northern areas, it is better to choose those products that do not freeze when the temperature drops. In southern areas, this is not practical;
• load. In the case of heavy soil or virgin land, the single-axle tractor will be under a higher load. In other words, the friction between components will increase, resulting in more torque. Under such conditions, it is possible to extend the service life of parts by selecting a lubricant that takes this into account;
• oil seals. If they are of poor quality, oil leaks are unavoidable. As a result, its residues will boil when overheated, which will lead to jamming of components.

In addition, you must buy products from a manufacturer that has branches in your area. This is important, t.к. Parts in case of wear should be replaced with analogous ones.

How to make a homemade single axle tractor based on ZAZ gearbox

A gearbox for a power tiller converts a high speed on the input shaft into a low one on the output shaft. Regular maintenance and timely repairs will allow the successful operation of the motoblock gearbox, avoiding sudden breakdowns.

Of course, it’s best if you understand the principles of operation of a power tiller and know the structure of its gearbox. Every farmer who knows the structure of gearbox of his motoblock, can properly conduct its technical diagnostics and repair. In severe cases, of course, it is necessary to turn to specialists with the appropriate experience.

If the gearbox of a motor-block is sufficient for a step change in the frequency of rotation of its output shaft, then instead of it in homemade motor-blocks can be used car gearbox. A homemade single axle tractor based on a ZAZ gearbox might be a good option. An example of such a power tiller for a household farm is shown below. According to the owner’s information, it took about one month to make it.

The first tests showed its low weight, after which weights were added to the wheels and the front counterweight. The power tiller weighs about 160 kg.

Features of a power tiller: plows, cultivates, dips, digs; mills; carries loads up to 800 kg.

Half-axles of a homemade power tiller on the basis of ZAZ gearbox

There are many nuances in making a half axle. To understand how to make a homemade single axle tractor with ZAZ gearbox, it is desirable to increase your knowledge, get acquainted with technical literature.

Good knowledge allows you to make a homemade single-axle tractor, which you can either operate yourself or sell to your friends. You have a machine that is perfectly adapted to your needs. You will save a considerable amount of money.

In order to make homemade tractors and power tillers you need physical strength and time. With enough experience, you can learn how to make reliable agricultural machinery for universal use. It is also not bad to master making homemade hitches to the tiller and additional attachments.

If you will be faced with the choice: to buy or make your own homemade single axle tractor with a ZID engine and gearbox at gearbox ZAZ, then it is better to choose the second option. First of all, study special literature, develop drawings, dig in the internet, and you can successfully make an effective agricultural machine.

Self-made tools for the tiller are necessary in many cases, because they allow machines to become more functional. For reliable attachment it is desirable to use homemade hitches to the power tiller, which are of high quality and designed with the features of mounted implements in mind.

Device of the reducer

One of the most important and most discussed among agriculture enthusiasts element of this mechanical device is the gearbox (converter). This part plays an equivalent role to an engine in the machine’s work.

It is important that, being responsible for the transmission of torque to the drive shaft, the reducer directly affects the durability of the power tiller. It is also responsible for the speed and movement of the machine.

The main elements of the motoblock gearbox device are:

In this video you will learn how to make a reducer:

The principle of the robot is as follows: since the main task of the reducer is the ability to change the speed of rotation at the moment of transferring the force between the devices. It transmits torque from the drive shaft to the driven shafts, located to it at an angle of 90 degrees. This is possible by means of gears, the teeth of which are made in a specific shape.

Characteristics of the main varieties

Cylindrical

Most common. The efficiency of these devices is up to 95%. They can transmit quite a lot of power. Transmission is between parallel and coaxial shafts. They can be equipped with spur, helical or chevron gears. Transmission ratios can range from 1.5 to 600.

Tapered

They are so called because they use gears, which have a conical shape. This provides a smooth coupling and the ability to withstand fairly heavy loads. Can have one, two or three stages. Shafts can be positioned either horizontally or vertically in this variation.

Wave

They are a design with a flexible intermediate number. They consist of a wave generator, an eccentric or a cam, which allows the flexible wheel to stretch until it makes contact with a stationary wheel. The flexible wheel has outer teeth and the fixed wheel has inner teeth.

The advantages of this type of gearboxes include:

They can be single or multi-stage. High-speed ones are equipped with plain bearings, and low-speed ones are equipped with rolling bearings.

Gearbox for a power tiller with your own hands

To avoid questions like “why??”and “why?”I’ll explain the area of application. Such a gearbox can be installed (mostly) on a homemade or, if desired, factory-made single-axle tractor or minitractor or their trailing equipment. Especially if it is necessary to change the direction of rotation before and after this gearbox. Can be used as a gearbox for shifting down and up gears or as a reverse gearbox (with certain modifications). Prinzip of the 2-speed gearbox:

And to switch between upshift and downshift with a change of shaft rotation, and without changing the rotation of the shafts by using a chain gear instead of gears.

I think it is clear where the chain and pinion gears.

Aim of the topic: to inform people interested in the principle of operation, possible applications, possible and., And to bring out my homemade gearbox

Well and immediately bring to the discussion on the creation of my gearbox. I have it will be applied to a homemade motor-block in the first place to change the rotation, and secondly to switch between up and downshift. After the 4 speed gear I had a chain reducer with a ratio of 2 and a half.6. But after carrying out a number of calculations, it became clear that the speed of movement with this reducer will be very low (on 1st gear 1500 rev./min 900 m/h and in 4th gear at 3500 rpm./min 5.8 km / h) and a pulling force is decent. This is certainly good but if you need to go somewhere for something light (dapustamy for 5 kilometers from home) is simply too tired to go and burn a decent amount of fuel. If you remove the intermediary gear unit, the max. It goes up to 15 km/h, but the traction is reduced and plowing or milling is not possible for various reasons. That’s when the idea of making a similar gearbox was born, which will help save traction power and at the same time help you go faster. The number of gears goes up to 8 forward (4 ups. and 4 downshifts.) instead of 4 and 2 reverse gears instead of 1st.

Build a Gearbox for Gasoline Engine 26CC

The idea is painfully simple. Those who at least once dismantled the ants gearbox will understand at once what to do, but the rest will describe all in the process.

So here we go. Let’s start with the primary shaft. You have to sharpen it yourself. It has not been machined yet and I can not show you the primary shaft assembly, I plan to do this one day and as I do so immediately I will post. Here’s the drawing:

Seat bearing unfortunately on mine no number but its dimensions 20h52h15. This is the “rear” bearing on the secondary shaft of a Ural motorcycle gearbox. You may also use 20x52x20, but in this case you should increase the mounts by 5mm. There will be two such bearings in the gearbox (one on the primary shaft and one on the secondary shaft), both will stand on the same side.

the landing place of the driving pinion of the 1st (reduced) gear. As a pinion was taken from the IZH gearbox (I think it was from IZH). I do not know what gear it is from. It has 19 teeth, the outer dimeter of the teeth 52.3mm and looks like this:

The pinion is cut to a red fishing line. The pinion should rotate with the shaft. It can be cut to the teeth on the other side and welded to the shaft. But I plan to make the primary shaft is completely collapsible (I do not know how, when I mill the shaft will be visible) with the ability to replace all elements of the shaft and will not cut it.

On the right, at the edge, right next to the seat will sit the pinion pinion 2nd (overdrive). Between these gears I will have something welded to the shaft that will catch the gears and make them rotate with the shaft. There will be one of these gears:

Where they fit on the shaft they are slightly different in width. For the one that’s a little smaller in width, I’ll make a 2mm thick washer. These will be the drive and idler gears of the 2nd gear and if you want you can swap them on the shafts. Obi from Ural motorcycle gearbox (I don’t know exactly from what gear I have it disassembled, I have to search on the Internet and look at the mechanism of the gearbox). The smaller one has 26 teeth and a tooth diameter of 70.6mm. The big one has 29 teeth and 78.7 mm diameter. I’m specifying the diameters.к. There’s a clone of this gear in the Ural motorcycle gearbox. It’s the right stake. The smaller one has 26 teeth and a tooth diameter of 70.6mm. If you put this clone instead of this pinion, there will be a big gap between the gears in 1st gear and the teeth may break under load. So even if you do not mix up these pinions, between the pinions of the 1st gear will still be a gap, but it will be only 0.75mm I don’t think it’s critical.

Here will sit the bearing with dimensions 25h52h15 and next to it will be a removable place for the sliding of the oil seal. This place can be taken from the gearbox of a motorcycle Ural (by the way, the bearing also, they also sit there next to each other). It’s on the drive shaft on the clutch side. I used a slightly different place for the stuffing box slide. It looks like this:

Schematic of making a power block

Self-made single-axle tractor from ZAZ gearbox consists of 2 wheels, it is self-propelled, assembled with an engine, which has a forced cooling of the cylinder head. It is carried out by air. The motor must be chosen such that it can work at different speeds, including small, and was able to do a lot of work. You can put a motor from a scooter and remove the other elements from it:

Brakes for single axle tractor are used both factory made and own. Homemade brakes allow to take into account the necessary parameters and loads.

With everything you need at hand, you can make a homemade mini-cultivator at home quickly and without too many problems. The single-axle tractor on the basis of ZAZ gearbox is created as follows:

• The U-frame is welded from pipes.
• Use a lathe to turn the wheel axle.
• Make 3 homemade joints, which are mounted on the front and adjusting rod. This approach to the assembly was used by Arkhipov, when he made his single-axle tractor. Hinges were used to connect the power tiller, handlebar and plow.
• Weld a steel tube onto the frame of the machine, which should have an axle on it. It is needed to implement the tension, which is transmitted to the gearbox. To have this tension permanently, a rocker arm must be made.
• Weld a handle for shifting gears. For this purpose, a small section of steel pipe is suitable.
• The undercarriage can have chain spacing that is 12.7 and 15.9 mm. The sprockets on the chain have the following characteristics. output shaft. 11 mm, secondary shaft. 60 and 20 mm, drive axle. 20 mm.
• The frame is welded, on which you must then install the motor, 2 pipes in the form of an arc.
• The fuel tank is fastened between them.
• Assemble motor by means of bracket, which is also welded to the frame.
• It is necessary to hang the motor with a suspension on the axle, and then all parts are connected to the arcs of the frame.
• Secondary shaft is mounted.
• Pulling control cables.
• The chains are stretched.

Assembling gearboxes with your own hands

Operation of power tillers and their gearboxes is dust, off-road, hot when plowing or cold when shoveling snow, uneven loads. Gearboxes can be made to last longer with a sealed housing.

For the base, on which pulleys, gears and other parts are fastened, ST-40 steel is used. The cover can be made of less strong steel, if it does not have elements of torque transmission.

The use of bearings to install shafts, pulleys, sprockets, gears is mandatory, otherwise friction will extinguish the force of rotation, and the unit will either fail quickly, or will not work immediately.

Any rotating mechanism requires lubrication. The worm gear especially. To prolong the life of your machine you need to replace the lubricant often, so the gearbox cover must be removable.

Gasoline and diesel engines have adjustable fuel supply and engine speed. It is best to move the so-called throttle grip to the handle of the power tiller.

When all the necessary parts are found, to reassemble your power tiller you will need metalwork tools. You will need a welder, angle grinder, a drill, a metal drill.

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The time spent on making a power tiller will pay for itself in full during the first gardening season.

One of the most important elements of a motoblock is the drive. If you need to buy a gearbox for a power tiller, then know that its reliability will determine the service life of the entire unit. Gearbox for motoblock, (made with our own hands), is designed to convert and transmit the torque, which it receives from the mechanical gears and makes the agricultural equipment work.

How to assemble a single axle tractor by yourself

Let’s consider how to assemble a single-axle tractor with our own hands. Parts that can be used for self-made, are taken from old motorcycles and scrap metal. As an engine, which is often put on homemade motocultivators, you can use the motor from the Druzhba. chainsaw.

Such an engine has sufficient power, allows the use of various attachments. This greatly expands the functional use of motocultivators. Many people put on a single-axle tractor engine from a scooter Muravey, which has excellent characteristics and parameters for work on a country site.

To build a power tiller at home, you will need the following parts and materials:

• 36×36 mm steel angles or 60x50x2 mm pipes. These parts can be used to assemble a frame for a power tiller.
• Engine fully assembled.
• Fuel tank.
• Exhaust system.
• Air filter.
• Kickstarter.
• Steering wheel, on which the clutch and throttle knobs should stand.

Make a single axle tractor with your own hands will help the following tools:

• Welding machine.
• Drill.
• Vise.
• A set of horns and socket wrenches.
• A grinder, which should have a special disc for cutting metal.