Honda HRN216VKA lawn mower review: cut your yard faster with this speedy self-propelling…

Honda HRN216VKA lawn mower review: cut your yard faster with this speedy self-propelling lawn mower

Honda understands that push mowers can be heavy, slow, and hard to maneuver which is why they designed the HRN216VKA. Like many walk-behind mowers, it has a self-propel system but combined with a Smart Drive handle, it can reach speeds up to 4 mph. Mowing on inclines and turning tight corners is irrevocably easier. If that wasn’t great enough, the HRN216VKA has mulching, bagging, and discharge functions and seven different cutting heights.

  • Can be stored flat
  • Mulch, bag, and discharge capabilities
  • Self-propel speeds up to 4 mph
  • No engine choke required
  • Includes 1.9-bushel rear bag
  • Seven different cutting heights

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Mowing any yard can be tiresome – especially with a heavy or cumbersome lawn mower. That’s why the Honda HRN216VKA lawn mower caught my eye.

I’ve used self-propel lawn mowers in the past, but most self-propel systems required a little bit of a push. When I discovered that the Honda HRN216VKA boasted a self-propeller that could reach speeds up to 4 mph, I was ecstatic to try it out. Would it make mowing my lawn easier? Faster? With a half-an-acre yard and some slopes to contend with, I discovered those answers soon enough.

Keep on reading below to learn all about my experience testing the Honda HRN216VKA and whether it makes the cut as one of the best lawn mowers.

Honda HRN216VKA lawn mower: key specifications

Honda HRN216VKA Self-Propelled lawn mower | MRSP 519 at Honda Featuring a Honda GCV1270 engine with autochoke system, 3-in-1 Clip Director for mulching, bagging and discharge and a Smart drive variable speed function.

What is the Honda HRN216VKA lawn mower like to use?

The Honda HRN216VKA arrived at my home already assembled, but from what I’ve read, assembly is simple and could take up to 10 minutes to complete.

As it is a gas mower, I filled the tank with the suggested amount of gas (the oil had already been added to the tank when it arrived at my house). Then, I adjusted the wheels with the dual levers to my preferred height. I’m not a fan of the Honda’s plastic wheels, but I can overlook that because it has seven different cutting adjustments that range from 1–4 inches. Plus, I liked how easy it was to adjust the cutting height with the levers on the wheels.

Clipping collection and mulching options Before I started the mower, I had to decide whether to mulch, bag, or discharge the yard clippings. The Honda HRN216VKA has a Clip Director on the side of the deck. All it takes is sliding it to the right or left to choose which function I desire the mower to do. The Honda comes with a 1.9-bushel bag – which is easy to get on and off – but I preferred to use the mulching feature most of the time. I tested the lawn mower in the fall/early winter so my yard was full of leaves and I wanted to recycle the leaves as mulch so as to provide my yard with some nutrients.

As far as the discharge option, it’s a rear discharge which means it is designed to spit the clippings on the backside of the mower – right on your legs. This seems like an unnecessary (and messy!) feature to me, but the option is built into the mower if that’s something you prefer.

Operation To start the mower, I pulled the flywheel brake safety system lever toward the handle and gripped it with my left hand while my right hand pulled the recoil starter rope. It usually takes one or two pulls for the engine to start. I like that it doesn’t require an engine choke.

Of course, the first thing I wanted to try was the Smart Drive Self Propel system. The folks at Honda made the lever an ergonomic paddle lever that can be pushed down with your thumbs or palm. I use my thumbs on both hands, but you can easily use just one hand if you’d like. The lever can be adjusted in five different positions which means I was able to find a comfortable position for my wrist.

I will warn you – the Smart Drive Self Propel has a kick. It can go from 0 to 4 mph immediately. Too much pressure and the lawn mower will buck and zip forward. If you’re not holding on tight, it could escape your grip. However, if you don’t apply enough pressure, you’ll basically be pushing the lawn mower (I did push the lawn mower without the self-propel to see how heavy it was and it’s not too bad). I can attest that it took me a few tries to intuitively get a feel for how to use the Smart Drive Self Propel.

Once I got the hang of it, I got to work mowing the lawn. When I pushed the Smart Drive Self Propel lever all the way down, thus achieving 4 mph, I found myself jogging to keep up with the lawn mower. This was good on evenings when the sun set early, and I wanted to finish the lawn before it got dark. Of course, I didn’t always use the 4 mph setting, but even 2 and 3 mph is a brisk walk.

As I mentioned, if you push too hard on the lever, the lawn mower will buck off the ground, which isn’t great for the plastic wheels when the mower comes crashing down. That said, the Honda’s self-propel lever provided a great burst of power when I needed to mow up an incline and around corners.

On the other hand, if I was mowing horizontally on an incline, I tried to use a lower speed. When I used a higher speed mowing horizontally on an incline, the lawn mower seemed to bump up and down more than I liked and missed blades of grass. The last thing I’ll note about speed has to do with the mulching feature. I found that the leaves were better mulched at a lower speed than a high one.

The 21-inch cutting deck is on the smaller end of standard push mowers, which typically range between 21–36 inches wide. This isn’t a major drawback because the Smart Drive Self Propel offers speeds that allow me to cut just as quickly as I might have with a larger cutting deck.

Self-Propel Smart Drive on the Honda HRN216VKA lawn mower

The most notable feature of the Honda HN216VKA lawn mower is the Self-Propel Smart Drive feature. Most self-propel features on lawn mowers are designed as levers that you pull, however, Honda engineers worked with an ergonomic specialist to develop a control and cone clutch transmission in the form of a paddle lever that you adjust with the simple push of your thumbs or palm. You can use one hand or both hands and even adjust the position of the lever up or down in five different settings for the comfort of your wrist.

Best yet – it provides instant speed up to 4 mph which is fairly fast. I believe the fastest self-propel systems reach 6 mph. With this function, you don’t have to really push the lawn mower, only guide it along the path you want it to take.

Mulch, bag and discharge feature on the Honda HRN216VKA lawn mower

Honda has made it easier to choose what to do with your grass and leaf clippings thanks to their 3-in-1 system with Clip Director. On the deck, you’ll see find a green clip that can be slid left or right and stops on three different functions: mulching, bagging, or discharging.

You don’t have to add attachments to mulch or discharge, but you will have to add the included 1.9-bushel bag if you choose the ‘bagging’ setting. This shouldn’t take but a minute or so.

How does the Honda HRN216VKA lawn mower rate online?

On the Honda website, the Honda HRN216VKA has a 4.2 rating out of 643 reviews, and on the Home Depot website, 82% of customers out of 4,640 reviews recommend the HRN216VKA.

With ratings like that, it’s fair to say that most customers are satisfied with their purchase. Some reviewers weren’t fans of the plastic wheels, and a few pointed out issues with the self-propel feature. Some reported that it required a learning curve, while others noted that it occasionally stopped working and needed maintenance under the three-year warranty plan.

How does the Honda HRN216VKA lawn mower compare to similar models?

The only other lawn mower that I’ve personally tested is the Troy-Bilt TB260 XP SpaceSavr Self-Propelled Lawn Mower. It’s more affordable than the HRN216VKA Lawn Mower and has a self-propelling system. Although Troy-Bilt doesn’t advertise the speed of the lawn mower’s self-propel system, I can confidently say that the Honda is much faster. Where the Troy-Bilt has front-wheel drive, the Honda has rear-wheel drive. The main area where the Troy-Bilt excels above the Honda is its SpaceSavr design which offers the option of vertical storage. It also does slightly better when mowing horizontally on an incline.

The one lawn mower that is most comparable to the Honda HRN216VKA is the Toro 21382. It’s equipped with a Honda GCV160 engine, mulching, bagging, and discharge system, and a similar self-propel system. The difference is that the Toro lever is not ergonomically designed (like the Honda is), however, the Toro can reach speeds up to 4.8 mph, where the Honda only reaches 4.0 mph. (I don’t think that extra 0.8 mph will make a difference) Other areas where the Toro stands out is the 2.1-bushel bag, a five-year-warranty, and higher-quality wheels. Perhaps this is why the Toro is 699, which is about 180 more than the Honda.

Should you buy the Honda HRN216VKA lawn mower?

The Honda HRN216VKA is a solid lawn mower. It may take you a few times to figure out how to use the self-propel lever properly, but once you have it down, you’ll be amazed by how easy mowing becomes. You essentially won’t have to push the lawn mower, just guide it to where it needs to go at speeds up to 4 mph. This is especially helpful for those with inclines in their yard.

Yes, the mower is on the pricier end, but this has to do with the high-quality and high-power GCV170 engine and outstanding features like the mulching, bagging, and discharge system, MicroCut twin blades, seven different cutting heights, eight-inch wheels, and rear wheel drive.

With this Honda lawn mower, mowing your yard will be a whole lot easier and less stressful on your body.

Honda HRN216VKA Self-Propelled lawn mower | MRSP 519 at Honda Featuring a Honda GCV1270 engine with autochoke system, 3-in-1 Clip Director for mulching, bagging and discharge and a Smart drive variable speed function.

About this review, and our reviewer

Alex Temblador is a Dallas-based award-winning author and freelance writer that has covered home, design, architecture, and art in publications like Real Homes, Gardeningetc, Home Gardens, Dwell, Architectural Digest, Artsy, Neighborhoods.com, Culture Trip, among many others. She recently bought her first home, a green Sears Roebuck house that’s over 100 years old, sits on half an acre of land and features a stunning wraparound porch, original hardwood floors, doors, and a butler pantry. Alex loves to test products for Gardeningetc, Real Homes, and Homes Gardens buying guides and reviews which has helped to expand the richness of her first-time homeowner life. The Mixed Latinx writer can usually be found working or relaxing in her outdoor spaces.

As with all our reviews, the Honda HRN216VKA was tested first-hand in Alex’s backyard, using it just as you would so you know exactly what you are buying. The products are given to us free of charge and we test them for as long as possible before sending them back to the brand unless we are able to keep it. This means that we can continue to use the product which gives us the opportunity to return to our reviews for updating, so you can keep up-to-date with how it’s fared over a period of time.

How To Make a Lawn Mower Go Faster: Speeding Up Your Mower

The question “How to make a lawn mower go faster?” is a common one among those that own this machine. Are you tired of your mowing getting slower each time you take it out on the lawn?

Many things cause lawnmowers to become slow such as using low-quality fuel, underinflated tires, small pulleys, and dull mower blades. Let us look at some of the most common ways to increase the speed of a lawn mower.

honda, hrn216vka, lawn, mower

How Do You Make Your Lawn Mower Move Faster?

To make your lawn mower move faster, there are so many things you can do such as using high-octane fuel, installing large tires, or fixing the engine pulley. Most importantly, make sure that your engine is in top condition and that the machine is regularly maintained.

Invest in a Fast Lawn Mower

If you want to make your mower go faster, you must invest in the fastest mower. A push-type mower can go only as fast as you can push it. It would help if you had a riding mower with engine power to push it to high speeds.

An average but good-quality riding type of mower has the potential to go up to four miles per hour, while a zero-turn riding type of mower can go as fast as seven to eight miles per hour.

You want to look for a hydrostatic lawn mower with zero turns. The lighter and sleeker the machine, the faster it will accelerate. You want to look for one with a steering wheel so that you have complete control over the machine as it reaches high speed.

Use High-Octane Fuel

While electric-powered mowers have many advantages over fuel-powered ones, speed isn’t one of them. To make such a mower go faster, you need the best fuel quality to power your engine. Your gas needs to be of an octane level of 92 or higher without adding ethanol.

Buy premium-quality fuel with added stabilizer, which will prevent it from decomposing. Using high-octane fuel makes your engine run smoothly, and you can accelerate the machine without harming it.

This is especially important when you own an expensive machine requiring premium fuel. If regular fuel is used on such an engine, it will cause premature firing of the sparkplug, commonly called engine knocking. You can feel a jerk every time you ignite the engine or accelerate it. Over time, this condition damages the engine, and it won’t go any faster.

Install Large Tires

Replacing the mower’s regular tires with larger ones is an instant trick to get it rolling faster. With bigger tires, you cover more ground with each rotation and move faster. Each tire should be the same size and width to keep the machine balanced.

Not all lawn mowers allow you the freedom to install tires of your own choice to them. If yours does, then this is an option worth looking for. On the downside, larger tires will increase the distance between the cutting deck and the ground, and you might need more time to mow the grass as low as possible. There is also a noticeable decrease in the torque of the machine’s motor.

Properly Inflate the Tires

To make your lawn mower fast, ensure its tires are inflated. The air inevitably leaks out from tires over time. This will slow them down, and the engine will have to double its efforts to keep them revolving.

The mower’s instruction manual has clear specifications regarding the ideal inflation levels of tires. It would help if you had a compressor to fill the tires at home whenever the air level within them falls below the ideal requirement. The gas station crew nearest to you will also perform this task if you take the mower over to them.

If the tires are too old and have been through much use, then it’s best to change them. This will improve the speed and is also important for the machine’s overall performance.

Make Sure the Air Filter Is Working Properly

An air filter is the most important part of the engine because it protects it from all sorts of contaminants and dirt in the surrounding air. If it gets clogged, the engine is directly affected, and its speed and efficiency will decrease. Cleaning it would help accelerate the speed of your mower instantly.

Cleaning the air filter is straightforward, and you can easily do it at home. Search for where the air filter is located in your mower or refer to the instruction manual. Turn the mower off, disconnect the spark plug and wait for the engine to cool off.

Loosen the nuts holding the shroud covering the filter and take the filter out. If it is a paper type of filter, then hold it toward a light source. If no light shines through, it needs to be replaced; otherwise, tap it on a hard surface to loosen the dust from it.

If your mower is of the foam type and is completely discolored, then it is best to change it. Otherwise, soak it in soap water made of dishwashing soap. Put it back only when it is 100 percent dry. Upon restarting the engine, you will notice that your mower’s speed has increased significantly.

Fix Your Engine Pulley

Modern lawnmowers are manufactured using a belt and pulley system that transfers energy from the engine to the tires. The speed of riding lawnmowers can be increased simply by replacing their existing engine pulley with a bigger pulley.

This trick works only for those mowers that have a two-pulley system. One pulley is attached to the engine, while one is located at the back of the mower. You must replace these pulleys with bigger ones to get the belt rolling faster.

If you are not that tech-savvy and handy, it’s best to take the mower to the mechanic. The engine will have to be exposed, and there is a chance you might end up damaging it by accident.

Sharpen the Blades Well

The sharper the blades are, the quicker and faster the mower will move ahead. Blades get dull over time, creating more resistance to their forward motion. That is why you need to constantly sharpen them after an approximate use time of 20 to 25 hours.

When sharpening a blade at home, you must dismantle it from the machine, then use an electric grinder or any other easy-to-handle machine to sharpen the blade at a 45 degree angle.

Get Rid of the Engine’s Governor

The governor is the part of a lawn mower’s engine responsible for controlling its speed. Each engine has its speed limit set by the manufacturer, and it is the governor’s job to ensure that the engine does not speed up beyond this point.

If your engine is not speeding up, how can your mower? Just remove this thing altogether and see how fast the machine goes. Turn your mower off and disable its spark plug before exposing the assembly that houses the engine.

The governor is made of plastic and looks like a flap with two springs. One spring will be attached to the carburetor and the other to the throttle. Disconnect both springs using a wrench, then take them out and reassemble the engine’s housing back.

Mow the Right Way

This might surprise you, but how you mow grass can make a lot of difference. You want to cut grass in straight, long lines with as few turns as possible. Cutting grass in a straight line becomes much easier if you have a square or rectangular lawn. Divide the lawn into vertical and horizontal segments and try to follow this pattern only.

Routinely Maintain Your Machine

Regular maintenance is the most neglected aspect of keeping a mower in top-notch shape and speed. Make sure its fuel tanks are full, regularly lubricate with engine oil, and keep the blades sharp.

If you need more time for constant upkeep, try to get it professionally checked once or twice a year at least. If everything is working well, then there is no doubt that the machine will run faster.

Keep the Oil Tank Full

Your mower speed is directly correlated to the level of oil present in the tank. When the tank is full, the engine runs the fastest. As the level of fuel in the tank decreases, more air enters the tank. The combusting fuel fumes evaporate into thin air, greatly decreasing the engine’s efficiency.

It would help if you kept the oil tank’s levels up while using it. The oil tank has a dipstick that helps you check its oil levels. Unscrew the cover of the tank and take the dipstick out. Keep refilling it with the best-quality oil whenever needed.

Once every six months, you should change the entire tank completely. You should tip the mower to the side and empty the old oil first. Another process you can execute is to use a suction pump to siphon off the old oil before replacing it with a new one.

Keep the Muffler in Check

While the main purpose of a muffler is to reduce the noise produced in the engine, it also affects its speed. When the muffler gets damaged, it creates back pressure into the engine.

Mufflers generally should be replaced every one to two years if the mower is used regularly. We suggest lawn owners get their mowers checked by a trusted mechanic regularly. Ask the folks over at the mechanic shop if they can change the muffler for you. Otherwise, you can do this in just a few simple steps.

Regularly Change the Oil

You must regularly change the old oil in the tank with fresh oil to keep the engine running efficiently. Oil with stabilizer added to it will last longer than oil without stabilizer. However, even stabilized oil breaks down over time, and the breakdown products damage the whole engine.

Manufacturers set certain guidelines for how often the oil needs to be changed. For push type of mowers, change the oil in the tank every season or after an estimated use of 50 hours.

Riding type of mowers can be used for 100 hours before their oil needs to be changed if the mower has been left unused for a few months such as the winter dormancy time. If this is the case, then iit is best to change the oil before taking it out for the growing season. We recommend emptying the tank altogether before packing the machine up.

Conclusion

Here is a summary of simple ways you can make a lawn mower faster than ever.

  • Buy a riding type of mower, always buy high-octane and premium fuel, and keep the gas and oil tanks full for maximum engine speed.
  • Cleaning the air filter or replacing an old one with a new one will immediately speed it up.
  • Replacing the mower’s tires and engine pulleys with larger-sized ones will also make it grow faster.
  • The governor (a part of the engine) is responsible for slowing the engine down. Getting rid of this part will help make the mower go faster.

After reading our guide, you now know many ways to increase the mower’s speed. Try them out and enjoy having a super fast lawn mower!

Introduction: How to Make a Racing Lawn Mower (Updated!)

Notice: I’ve recently completely turned this mower into a new build. If you’ve read this before, proceed to step 12 for the latest updates. Otherwise, start reading below for the original build.Thanks to everyone who has commented before. As always, feel free to ask questions and I’ll do my best to answer.Click Here to proceed to step 12.

In this demo, you’ll get some ideas of how you can make a real racing riding mower used in national events. Have fun turning what used to be the family lawn mower into a fire-breathing high speed racing machine. Also- I’m constantly making changes and modifications to the final machine so check back to see what I’ve done. The next plans I have include steering upgrades.

Please read the following paragraph before proceeding.

Before we start, there’s a bit of safety to discuss.Yes, racing lawn mowers from an outward perspective is sort of funny ( which it is!)But its important to realize that racing mowers such as these are heavily modified to handle much greater speeds than the original mower was designed for. Many of these mowers go 50MPH or more.Making a race mower isn’t as simple as taking a stock tractor and making it go fast without any alterations. So its important that the frame, brakes, steering, engine, and wheels are modified or altered to handle this additional speed.So to make this point doubly clear, it is NOT a good idea to take a bone stock mower and make it go fast. You can, and will get hurt if you do so, and trust me- I’ve seen enough people wreck due to this very reason. So play it safe. Secondly, if you do plan on racing, make sure and check out the rules for your chapter and wear appropriate safety gear such as a helmet ( motorbike), gloves, boots, and long pants.My mower is built using ARMA ( American Racing Mower Association) rules and regulations. Lastly, your mower must have an approved jet ski/snowmobile style safety tether switch. If you fall off ( which we often do) the mower must automatically shut down or it’ll keep right on going! Racing mowers might seem silly, which it sort of is, but you can get hurt if you’re not careful. So be safe!

Ready, let’s get started! The ‘victim’ I chose for this build is a late 60’s Grants mower. Tiny little mowers like these were produced back when riding mowers were still deemed a luxury. They’re little more than a seat sitting on top of a mower deck. Most used smaller engines. The advantage of using such a little mower is that you can reduce the weight dramatically by simply having a ‘legit’ riding mower complimented with a larger engine, hence a higher power/weight ratio. Don’t get attached to it. When its done, there won’t be much left of the original.

The first step is to strip the mower down to the frame. Modern mowers usually have a single stamped piece of steel. Older mowers like this one have frames made of square tubing or slabs of steel. This will give you an idea of how much of the mower is actually usable and how you can lay out the drive, steering, and brake components. Besides the hood, what’s leftover to use isn’t much. The rest are worthless such as the stock wheels, steering wheel, and transmission.

Step 1: Configuring the Build.

The next step is probably one of the more difficult parts of the build: configuration and finding parts. Building one of these is sort of like building a small car with all its various systems. Since all of these racing mowers are one-off type builds, finding the parts that will work can be a pain. I’ve had a lot of questions about where the tires, clutch, and right angle gear box ( transmission) comes from. the gear box can be found on ebay. The tires are go cart tires and can be found online on any site that sells go cart parts. The same is true for the brakes and rear axle components. The front axle is a custom unit built by a company called Acme Mowersports.

A list of parts needed for this build are:

A: Engine B: Transmission ( right angle gearbox) C: Centrifugal clutch D: sprockets E: Front axle and spindles F: Rear axle and axle hangers G: steering wheel H: Brake system I: chain J: electrical components K: Wheels, tires, and hubs M: Gas lever N: high endurance engine components

Many of the others need to be made by hand. One thing that’s helpful is that many of these components such as the rear axle and hangers,wheels, hubs, spindles, and brakes are basically go-cart components. Some golf cart and motorbike components work as well. Sprockets and such can be had from sites such as Mcmaster.carr.

Once you get all the parts, the build actually goes pretty quickly.

Step 2: Frame Reinforcement

The next step is to beef up the frame or make alterations that will work with your components.Its important to realize that these mowers will be racing on what tends to be really rough dirt track. They have no suspension, thus the frame takes a severe beating. Reinforcement is critical to avoid having the frame flex and ultimately crack from fatigue. The rear of the frame was cut about 6″ from the rear. Throughout the build, I used 1×1 square tubing which is easy to weld and work with. This is what I used to create the square frames in which the mounting brackets were welded into to hold the rear axle bearings. I chose to use a 1/1/4″ rear axle because that size is highly common and thus easier to get parts like wheels and sprockets for.

These square frames were welded into the frame, then the end I cut off was welded to the back. The minimum height requirements for my class is 4″ from the frame to the ground. So its important to know what size wheels you plan to use and where to mount the axles in order to meet that requirement. The lower you can go, the better handling the mower will be. Mine site just at 4″ off the ground.

Next, I welded two lengths of square tubing along the top of the axle brackets to the front tubular frame. I did this because the transmission will go underneath. A piece of diamond plate will cover it, and above will be the seat. This will give me easy access to servicing the chain and transmission and also protect me from flying debris or potential chain failures.

I am using a right angle gearbox for this build. Why? Because the other choice is to use a 3-5 speed gearbox used as standard equipment on mowers. These work fine, but it also means you’ll have to change the grease in them and perhaps invest in hardened gears since the originals will strip out much easier. With a right angle gear box, or RAGB, there’s only two moving parts. Plus, they are made for higher speed applications and therefor perfectly suited for this application. simplicity means more reliability.

Additionally, I am using a centrifugal clutch. This is a higher quality, higher HP rated unit that is heavier duty than typical go-cart clutches. The springs can be adjusted for higher or lower engagement.

Step 3: Steering System

The next step is one of the most important of the build. Many people go out on the track with the stock steering setup. That’s a big mistake for a number of reasons. For one, the stock components aren’t made for going 50MPH, as is none of the other stock components. Secondly, there’s more to steering besides making the wheels turn. You also need to have the proper caster, pitch, and turning radius so that the chassis will handle corners better.

Honda HRN216VKA Self-Propelled Lawn Mower Unboxing

Most mowers come with a gear driven steering setup. These are worthless and tend to pop out of place. So you’ll need to make a “direct steering” system. In other words, a solid connection between the steering wheel and the front wheels.

For this build, I bought a pre-built front axle from a guy in Texas. He has a small business called ” Acme mowersports” and can be found at www.acmemowersports.com. His front axles are a good deal because even if you were to build your own, the cost would be only slightly less. With the Acme axle, the proper caster and degree of inclination are already built-in, which will save you lots of time. These come with the radius arms as well as connections for the steering axle, which on mine runs down the center of the front of the mower over the top of the engine.

Next up is the installation of the steering shaft running along the front of the frame. This mower has an unusual setup where the steering linkage runs over the top of the engine. An a arm runs from the steering wheel pitman arm to a shaft running down the front of the frame to the radius arms of the front axle spindles. First, I got some 1/1/4″ steel pipe and cut some lengths about 2″ long. On each end, I placed a bearing in which the steering shaft fits through.

The top of the front steering shaft has a removable lever to attach the piece of linkage coming from the steering wheel. This enables you to remove it if needed. If you look at the pic entitled “pitman arm detail”, this is the steering wheel shaft with the pitman arm welded on. As you can see, the arm on the end is rounded and has three holes. There’s a reason for this, which is to prevent the heim joints, which are the screw-on ball bearing pieces on the ends of the rods from binding. The reason for the three holes is to give you adjustments to the steering sensitivity. Further out gives you more slack. Further in tighter. It is also important that the arm running across the top of the engine area has threads on either end. This way the heim joints can be screwed in or out to adjust the amount of right and left turn in the wheels.

In The pic entitled: “Steering arm”, you can see how this system works together. Lastly, the “turn right” pic shows the underside linkage and radius arms. If you see the “t” shaped piece, that’s where the radius arms connect. The “T” is welded to the bottom of the front steering shaft.

Another step is to determine the angle of the wheels. Generally, it is better to have the left wheel turn in more than the right. I usually have the left wheel turn in @ 10:00 and the right at 2:00.

Lastly, you will need to install what are known as “stops”, which are basically welded on rods or bolts to prevent the wheels from turning too far. If they turn too far, the steering wheel will turn completely over, thus reversing your steering! Not good! For this build. all I did was weld two 5/16″ pieces of steel rod to the front of the axle, right where the spindles swing in and out. The spindle arms simply hit the stops. I held the wheels in place at the correct position and placed the stops at exactly where the spindle arms hit, then welded them into place.

Once you have the steering done, then you’ve just completed one of the hardest steps!

Step 4: Installing the Transmission Or- the RAGB

The next step is to install the RAGB ( transmission). This was a tedious task because the RAGB I chose has an unusual triangular shape and a strange bracket. Additionally, the RAGB shaft has to be far enough off the ground, yet not too far up as to protrude above the diamond plate covering it. When all the measurements were done. I had 1/4″ between the top of the RAGB and the cover. The RAGB sits on two cross members welded in the frame. If you look at the pic called: “Battery bracket”, you can see how it is configured. In the next pic you can see the RAGB bolted into place.

Before we get any further, you’ll need to determine what your gearing ratio will be. The RAGB is a 2:1 ratio, meaning that two turns go in, one comes out of the output shaft. I suck at math, but my gear setup is as follows: Centrifugal clutch is 14 tooth. Input on RAGB is a 14 tooth. Output on the RAGB is 12 tooth, and the rear axle sprocket is a 40 tooth. That worked out well, but I have no clue what the final ratio is. The engine speed is around 4,500-5,000 RPM.

I’m using an all chain drive system. Many use belts, but I like the idea of using a chain. I used #35 chain for this build, but many use #40.

The next step is to install chain tensioners. The chain needs to be somewhat taut, but not tight. All chains will loosen and ‘stretch’ with use. So you need to have tensioners to keep that tension at the right level. The RAGB to rear axle tensioner was a problem because there was very little space to install one. My solution was to install a skateboard wheel that slides up and down in a 1×1 piece of steel with a slot milled along it’s length. This enables you to slide the skateboard wheel up and down against the chain. You wouldn’t think skateboard wheels would hold up, but they work great. Seeing as how they are designed to handle a person riding on asphalt, chain doesn’t cause any damage to them at all. In this setup, I just have enough room to get into the area with a wrench to loosen/tighten the tensioner.

Step 5: The Brake System

Next up is brakes. There are several types of brakes you can use: mechanical or hydraulic. The later is generally better and easier to install because you can route the brake lines to wherever you want them. The brake system I have is an MCP go cart brake kit. They run around 150 including the master cylinder, rotor, rotor hub, caliper, and brake line. You can also use motorbike brakes if you have any laying around.

First, I drilled two holes through the frame where the bolts holding the caliper would go through. Many people create a caliper mounting bracket. Mine just happened to conveniently work without it. After that, I bolted on the caliper and made sure it aligned properly with the rotor. The rotor and other components on the axle are adjustable and slide back and forth on a keyway milled into the axle shaft. Once adjusted, you lock them down with set screws.

Next, I installed the master cylinder. This is bolted through the frame. The aluminum piece with the three holes is the connection for the brake pedal connecting rod, which is made out of 1/4″ steel rod bent @ 90 degrees. The other end of the rod connects to the pedal. I welded a nut to the end of the rod and drilled out the threads. Make sure you do a real hot, molten weld here because you don’t want that to fail. The pedal is made out of scrap steel and a short length of 1×1 square tubing with a hole drilled through the bottom in which to run a bolt through the frame. A nylock nut on the other side allows it to stay in place yet swivel back and forth.

Once you’ve gotten everything to work smoothly, you’ll have to bleed to brakes. But hold off on that until closer to the end.

Step 6: Installing the Floor Plates,”mower Deck” Battery, and Electrical System

Next up, I install the “mower deck”, or in this case, the simulated mower deck.In some classes ( yes there are different classes of mower racing machines) you can install a replacement for the original mower deck as long as it is in the approximate location and height. Mine is made out of more of the steel square tubing welded into “C”s with wire mesh tacked on top. This not only makes for a nice foot rest, but it is much lighter than the original deck. These are simply welded directly to the bottom of the frame.

Then I installed the battery, which was originally to go under the seat. The seat is sitting on top of the original bracket I welded directly to the top of the deck frame. But the battery was too tall. Its a small lawn tractor battery, and the ONLY place it would fit was right behind the engine. I welded two angle iron pieces pointing upwards to form a bracket in which the battery sits. The space is TIGHT. This actually works really well because it moves the center of gravity to the center of the mower, adding further stability.

Following that was the installation of the floor plates made of thick diamond plate. These were cut to size and screwed on with self-drilling screws so that both panels can be removed for servicing the RAGB, transmission. The fit was very tight and I glued on a piece of rubber to the battery to avoid abrasion from the diamond plate. The fit was perfect and snug, which is what you want with batteries.Diamond plate is costly stuff, so try and find scrap if you can. The same was done for the dash, which is where the electrical stuff goes.

That brings us to the next step, which is the creation of the electric panel. In order to keep everything neat and serviceable, all of the electrical components were screwed and bolted to the dash panel. This includes the starter button, starter solenoid, and tether switch.

Step 7: “Puke Tank”, Seat, and Engine Mounting.

Our next step is to make what is known in the racing world as the “Puke tank”. No- it isn’t for seasickness, but rather for the engine. Since the engine will be running at sometimes 50% faster than it was originally designed for, the crank case will sometimes spit oil from the crank case breather. Since you don’t want that stuff all over the track or you for that matter, you make sometimes called a puke tank. Mine is made out of ABS plastic pipe, brass hose fittings, and PVC for the breather on the right side (in white). This is mounted to the back of the mower under the seat, connected with a hose to the engine valve cover.

Next, I decided to machine slots into the engine mounting pan. I made keyhole shaped slots that enable the engine to be slid forwards and back so that the chain can be fitted and tensioned properly. This is the longest chain on the build, thus a spring-loaded tensioner was fabricated in addition. Since the chain here is hanging horizontally, you want to have constant, gentle pressure applies to keep it from falling off. The tensioner is simple, using a channeled nylon idle pulley typically used on mower decks. Like the skateboard wheel, nylon holds up just fin on chain. The pulley is mounted to a arm that is bolted to the underside of the simulated mower deck via a nylock nut and bolt. A spring is attached to it as well as a bolt welded to the underside of the engine pan. As you can see, the chain fits nicely from the centrifugal clutch to the RAGB.

Now the seat. This step is actually kind of important. You’ll find that staying on these mowers on a bumpy dirt track with sharp corners is difficult.The inertia will threaten to throw you off. But at the same time, if you do fly off, you want to clear the “scene of the accident” and not get run over by your own mower. So it needs to be low. The solution is to have a low seat with low sides that keeps your rear attached to the seat. It’ll actually give you more control. One last word- it helps to have padding. A steel seat with no padding can be. painful. My Wife covered mine with upholstery from an old chair.

Step 8: Engine Modifications and Installation.

Now that the chassis and other vitals are now complete, now its time to work on the engine. The engine I’m using is a 12.5 HP Briggs and Stratton with a cast iron sleeve. These are one of the most common engines on riding mowers. Mine in particular is what’s known as a “flathead” because the other variant has overhead valves. These engines are extremely simple and inexpensive. The flathead takes up less space too.

But to use an engine such as this stock would be a mistake. First of all, the governor will be removed. enabling engine speeds to approach double what the engine was designed for. This means that parts are going to take a severe beating and certain items should be replaced. First and foremost- the flywheel. The original is made out of solid cast iron and weighs in at 12-15 pounds. Cast iron is somewhat susceptible to fracturing from stress. Even microscopic cracks, not seen by the naked eye can cause a flywheel to explode at high speeds. While this rarely occurs, its something to think about since the flywheel will be less than a foot away from you.know-what. There are two fixes, once better than the other. The first is to make a scattershield, which is a 1/4″ frame made to fit around the top of the engine shroud. These can be bought at a number of sites, including G-team racing. These will at least contain the explosion if it occurs, but not absolutely.

The safer, albeit more expensive solution is to purchase what’s known as a billet aluminum flywheel. These are milled via computer guided mills out of solid billet aluminum- the stuff used to make aircraft components. Not only will the wheel be lighter, but stronger and almost indestructible.Considering the cost of the milling machine, the cost is reasonable. Around 350.

Next, the governor is removed. You want to remove it entirely, including internally. That involves removing the oil pan. You will see a brass sleeve in which the throttle lever slides through. After you remove the throttle, use a punch to remove the brass sleeve. To seal the hole, I simply use a bolt and a nut, washer, and rubber o-ring.

The second specialized part is what’s known as a “dogbone” connection rod for the large cast iron counterweights. These large weights help the engine run smoother. The crank runs directly through it. The wimpy aluminum factory original is prone to breaking. If that happens, the counterweight will slam into the sides of the crank case, breaking right through it. Say bye-bye to the engine if that occurs. So again, a billet aluminum replacement is used.

Additionally- as mentioned in the new “updates” section, the stock piston rods in these engines do not deal well with the additional engine speeds. So as a recommendation, invest in a billet aluminum rod. You will also have to buy another piston, most often being a magnesium Briggs unit. I ordered mine from a company called G Team racing out of North Dakota. They are well worth the money not having to worry about an engine blowing out on the track, which trust me- is rather scary and potentially costly.

Next, the linkage for the carburetor needs to be setup. For the gas throttle, A bicycle brake lever and brake line is connected to a spring that pulls against the throttle control of the carb. The pull of the spring is what snaps the brake lever back in place.The lever is attached to the steering wheel. As you can see, I simply bent two scrap pieces of diamondplate aluminum. These face each other. On one side, the spring goes to the throttle lever of the carb. The brake cable comes from the other side, attaching into the same hole as the throttle spring. To hold the brake cable in place, I used a brass nipple fitting that stops the cable sheathing, but allows the actual cable to come through. The spring holds the cable into position.

Lastly, I fabricated the exhaust system. It is a 2.5 foot long pipe. To get the correct curves, I bought a muffler header pipe that is made to fit a Snapper riding mower from a mower parts supply site- cheapmowerparts.com This will fit 8-12 HP engines, hence it fits mine. This is cut and a second curved piece was made from the exhaust pipe of a 1980’s Honda Civic( which apparently had tiny exhaust systems). These two curves gave me the right geometry to curve out and under the foot rests. The end of the pipe is simply a length of straight muffler pipe. These are held to the bottom of the foot rests via pipe hanging brackets used for electrical conduit. By the way- this exhaust will make your engine extremely LOUD. Just a word of warning in case you have. neighbors. close by.

Step 9: Paint and Finishing It Up.

Now for the funnest part of the build: Painting. Now all of that hard work gets to get shown off. But before painting, you need to do some prep. The chassis is likely oily and dusty from welding. All of the welds are also likely not “clean” meaning they’re splattered. You can quickly clean up the frame with sandpaper flap discs attached to a grinder. Clean all of the rust, splatter, and rough edges to a smooth surface.

I used a oxide primer primer, which is a good foundation for the paint. I used plain ole’ black spray paint. I chose spray paint because the frame is very likely going to get pitted with rocks and future mechanical modifications. So it can easily be touched up. Plus its cheap. The fiberglass hood was painted with orange engine paint, which I find dried quick and smooth.

Now the entire mower is put back together. Wheels, engine, brakes, electrical, etc. The mower went back together surprisingly quick. Less than two hours was all it took.

With the mower put back together, all that’s left is to bleed the brakes, install the battery, fill the engine with oil, and then give her a test run.

Anyhow, it was lots of fun making this mower and so far I’ve been in 3 races this season. Feel free to ask questions if you want to make your own. if you want to see me in action, visit my racing club’s web site, http://www.pvmowerracing.com

Step 10: Updates.

Its been a year since this mower was completed. After a year of racing I’ve learned what the weak spots were on the machine. First, stock pistons in Briggs flathead engines do not hold up well under stress. I wound up blowing two engines early in the season when the rods snapped. So the first improvement was in purchasing a billet aluminum rod and a lightweight magnesium piston. So far this rod has held up well under the stress.

Secondly, any nuts and bolts that can come loose will come loose unless they are secures using nylock nylon lock nuts and loctite ( the blue bottle). Otherwise the severe track vibration will cause things to fall off, which they did frequently. So spend the few extra dollars and secure everything down and save the headaches.

Lastly, the cheap stamped bearings I went with in the steering system have way too much slop in them. I replaced all 8 of the bearings with sealed ball bearing units with steel snap rings. This removed all of the slop in the steering and made the handling much more accurate and responsive, which in turn is much safer. So make sure and invest in better high quality bearings for everything that moves.

Oh yeah- one more thing- Orange was not a good color. So now it is all-black.

honda, hrn216vka, lawn, mower

The video is of our first event of the year. Enjoy!

Step 11: Updates: New Rear Axle Chain Tensioner.

Here’s another update, and this time its again for the rear chain tensioner. I had a lot of issues with the chain jumping off the sprocket for the rear axle. I tried a few things, namely the experiment I mentioned in the previous step involving two roller skate wheels, one on top of the chain, one underneath. That system didn’t work.

So I came up with a new tensioner that involves using a chain sprocket idler which is spring loaded. The old tensioner idler was mounted to a bracket with a slot cut in the side to enable the idler wheel to be moved up and down. This is shown in step 4. So I used the same bracket but instead of having the idle sprocket be stationary, it “floats” up and down in the slot with the help of a sturdy spring that ensures that it keeps constant pressure on the chain. I accomplished this by using 2 large fender washers on each side of the mounting bolt going through the bracket, then having nylock stop nuts on either side, backed up just enough to allow the mounting bolt to move freely up and down. I welded a bolt to the frame above the idler sprocket so that the tension spring could be attached. The idler sprocket itself is mounted to a thick piece of 1/8″ steel.

This has worked out great all season. The tensioner can not only move up and down, but also slightly forward and back thus not matter what the chain does, the tensioner keeps constant pressure on it. With both chains staying put, the mower is now pretty reliable.

The rebuilt engine has held up great this year. Its now broken in so the synthetic oil stays almost crystal clear for a good 2-3 races.

We also just redesigned our web site and you can check us out at www.pvmowerracing.com

Step 12: Updates for 2011: Total Overhaul

After over 3 years of racing the mower with the same configuration it was time for some serious upgrades. There were some major shortcomings with the old design. That and as the years went by, others on my team “upped the anty” and had upgraded their machines. A lot of things have changed in mower racing since I built this machine. A lot of custom, high performance engine parts are now available making more durable, highly reliable engines that can withstand higher RPMs over longer periods.

Before we begin read this : I’ll reiterate a bit about safety. As I mentioned at the very beginning of this insctructable, racing mowers are actually pretty dangerous and if you’re not careful you can very easily get hurt. There are several racing organizations out there that all have very specific rules and regulations as you’d find in any motorsport: Rules meant to keep the driver and those watching safe. Think of these as go-carts except they look like mowers. We have no safety cages or restraint systems. Thus you must wear correct safety gear like a DOT approved helmet- preferably a full face helmet. You must also wear gloves, boots, long pants, a neck collar- or even better- a neck brace. Your mower must also have various safety features like real brakes ( not the crappy ones the mower came with), a safety tether that cuts power if you fall off, and others as well. In order to understand these in detail visit www.heymow.com and check out the rules. If you show up at an event and you or your mower are not equipped safely- you won’t be racing. Lastly. DO NOT simply take the ole’ family mower and make it go fast without anything else other than swapping pulleys. Stock mowers are meant to go 2-5MPH. Not 50MPH. If you do something like this, you will have a greater chance of getting injured.

Lastly, if you’re welding, drilling, grinding, or working with any power tools, please use proper safety gear- as in gloves, boots, goggles, respirators, and so on. Use common sense and you’ll avoid a trip to the emergency room ( trust me- I’ve been there enough to know) Whew! Now that that’s over- let’s get goin’!

The changes I made to the mower were as follows: 1: Extend the length of the frame. Why? The original frame was around 38″ long. The width from wheel to wheel? 36″. The problem was that when you’re basically driving a square, you have very poor handling. I decided to lengthen the frame to the maximum length permitted for Mod-X machines: 42″. Thus I would add 6″ to the frame.

2: New engine with a plethora of high performance parts. This includes a billet rod, billet ARC flywheel, High-torque starter, billet crank with built-in lightweight counterweights, a high performance cam, Higher strength valve springs and better valve keepers. That and the rings would be filed to an absolute close tolerance to increase compression. Other considerations would be porting and polishing. The old engine was a very mild build. This new engine was a total build-out. As this was my first major mod job of an engine, there was a lot of learning.

3: New sheetmetal. Luckily I found a “donor mower” pretty quick.

4:A new fully adjustable steering system. The old setup wasn’t adjustable at all. The new one is fully adjustable and the caster and camber can be carefully tweaked. This is important because no matter what engine you might have, a mower that steers poorly and plows into corners will be impossible to handle.

The first thing was to strip the old mower down. After 3 years of abusive tracks and racing, it was actually in pretty good shape. Most of the parts I’d used like the brakes, wheels, axle, transmission, and clutch could be re-used, which mean a lot less money. The old 12.5 Briggs Flatty served me well but will be replaced with a 14.5 Briggs Overhead Valve engine.

I had previously gone to a scrap metal yard and gotten a piece of channel iron to extend the frame 6″. The frame on mine is a simple box frame with a tubular frame up top. Thus I was able to extend my mower versus something like a stamped steel machine, which would be more problematic. The channel iron was cut and the frame was sliced near the front. The idea was to preserve the more complicated rear of the machine which has the engine, transmission, and brake system mounts so it could be used as-is without modification. These new pieces of angle iron was welded into place.

Since the old fiberglass hood was now way too short for the now-lengthened mower, I needed to either cut and extend the old hood or find a new hood. Luckily for me, the group leader or our group has what I’d call lawn mower heaven in his back yard- a whole fleet of old riding mowers. One was an old Montgomery Wards and the hood and fenders from it fit perfectly! Easy.

Step 13: Update the Old Steering System to a Fully Adjustable One.

Perhaps the single most important thing you can do for a racing mower is get your steering right. Before I go into the build, let’s talk a little about steering geometry because if you understand how it works, you’ll have a much easier time building one. I have to admit it took me a long time to figure it out. The guys I race with in many cases raced stock cars thus they have it down to a science.

Basically the problem that we have on the track is that the rear axle doesn’t have a differential. As such both rear wheels are traveling at exactly the same rate. With a differential the outer wheel naturally travels more than the inner, thus making turning into a corner easier. In order to correct this problem, you’ll want to remove weight from the front right and place that weight onto the front left so that weight is removed from the right rear. In doing so you’ll offset the effects of having no differential. This is done so by adjusting three things: Caster ( the angle that the spindle sits- either positive or negative, the Camber- the angle at which the wheels lean in or away from the mower, and toe out- as in how much the wheels point away from the mower. We’ll go into this later when final adjustments are made.

The old spindles were cut off of the front axle. I re-used the old axle instead of installing a new one. The new spindles are fully removable from the axle and are mounted with large heim joints. The mounting plates for the spindles are welded to the ends of the axle and have machined slots so that the spindles can be turned forward or back ( which gives you your caster adjustment). These plates need to be welded to the ends of the axle at a 10 degree angle with the tops of the plates pointing in towards the mower. This is critical because this in turn gives you your camber- or the degree in which your wheels will lean in towards the mower. Having this adjustment will allow you to carefully adjust the camber in such a way as to help push more weight onto the left front wheel meaning you will be able to “hook up” more easily in the turns.

With the mounting plates welded in place, the spindles could be attached. These spindles come in a kit and you can get them from various go-cart suppliers. Some people make their own spindles using bolts. If you do that make sure to use Grade 8 bolts as they are less prone to bend than conventional bolts.

The last major thing you’ll have to do is to attach the spindle arms for attaching the radius rods. There’s a pretty simple method for doing this: With both spindles absolutely straight on both sides, attach a piece of string from the ends of the spindle mounting bolts and attach the string to the center of the rear axle. Weld the spindle arms as if you are lining them up with the path of the string. Easy enough.

Once the steering system is installed, you’ll have to do some adjustments to the setup to ensure the mower is handling properly. But that will come later once the machine is completed.

Step 14: Porting and Polishing the Engine.

The next step was to start working on the engine. The engine I got was a early 90’s Briggs 14.5 OHV. There are a lot of similarities between it and the old 12.5 flathead I had. The crank, piston, rod, and carb in the 12.5 are basically the same. Thus I was able to scavenge the old magnesium piston and billet rod I’d been running. The rod is an ARC rod and has replaceable bearings. Its always important to replace these if you’re sticking them in a new engine. I also ordered new rod bolts.

I’d also decided to try out a new product from ARC, which is a billet chrome molly billet crank. Just as I got started on the engine they came out with it. For years we’ve had a dilemma where the old heavy cast iron counterweights that came with these engines not only presented an issue of having to deal with more mass, but on occasion these have come loose, smashing through the crank case. The solution was to get an old-style 80’s or early 90’s crank with removable eccentrics and install lightweight brass counterweights. ARC developed a billet crank with the counterweights machined into the piece- thus its all one piece. I opted for this part.

Also ordered was a new set of valves and more “modern” valve keepers. The old style of keepers uses a sort of cap with a slot cut in the top. These have been known to come loose out on the track- causing damage to the head. The new keepers are similar to ones you’d find in a car and are highly unlikely to come loose.

Lastly, while I thought I would be able to re-use my old billet aluminum flywheel, the one I had was solid aluminum-including the hub. The hub was badly damaged from having slipped numerous times on the crank. I ordered an ARC billet flywheel with a removable steel hub- thus making it also adjustable. In doing so I also had to order a high-torque starter. The starter looks like something you’d find in a car also. Its made by Denso- the folks that make parts for Toyota.

Anyway, one way to increase engine performance is to do something called “porting and polishing”. What this entails is to basically provide an easier way for gasses to enter and exit the engine. From the factory the intake and exhaust ports have rather sharp edges. Run your finger inside the area where the port enters the valve area and its almost sharp enough to cut you. These edges will need to be shaved down and smoothed over. I used a stone mounted to my Dremel tool to slowly cut and blend these areas so that the airflow would be smoother. I then followed up with some polishing compound and gave it a mirror polish. This took hours but its worth it in the end.

Step 15: Building the New Engine.

With the parts all ordered and received I spent about a week building the engine. One thing I did was ordered a set of over-20 rings. This means that the gap between where the ring when it is fully compressed in the cylinder is.020 over the stock gap. This is done for a few reasons. Mainly its if you had an engine with a worn cylinder and needed more available ring to fill that void. The ends of the ring are then filed down until a desired ring gap is met. In my case I did this to intentionally make the ring gap far tighter than stock. Usually a stock engine will come with a 0.10-0.20 ring gap. In my case I wanted to have a 0.004-0.006 gap. This would give me more compression overall. Doing this is tricky if you’re like me and don’t have a ring grinder tool handy. But it can be done. Simply mount a mill file in a vise straight up and down and very slowly pull up on the ring with the end of the ring filed as level as possible. Only file one side of the ring too because doing so means a greater chance of having an uneven gap. Every few strokes put the ring in the cylinder and tamp it level with the top of the piston. Measure the gap with a feeler gauge. Eventually you’ll arrive at the correct gap. I accidentally filed too much and wound up having it down to a.008 gap. Ooops. Not that big of a deal so that’s what I installed it as.

The crankcase was thoroughly cleaned and the hole which the governor lever came out of was blocked using a bolt and nut. The next step was to install the new valves. In addition to ordering new valves and keepers, I also ordered a stronger set of valve springs. These are double layer springs with a smaller inner spring that is removable. What I wasn’t aware of was that you don’t want to use the center spring. I spent hours sweating bullets trying to install the new valve and keepers because the dual springs were so stiff. The first time I did this I was pressing the spring down with a socket when it slipped. The tiny keepers flew off into the wild blue yonder, never to be seen again. What a pain! I never found them as they were hopelessly lost somewhere in the shop. Thus I ordered 3 extra sets. With the center springs removed it was much easier to push them down and drop in the keepers. Slowly let the pressure off the springs and the keepers will usually fall into place around the groove of the valve stems.

With that done it was time to install the piston and rod. The rod needs to be installed using exacting torque settings. The final is @ 28 foot pounds. First, apply a bit of oil to the bolts. This will enable you to do what’s called ” Wet torquing”. Using a torque wrench, set it for 16 foot pounds. go back and forth from one bolt to another until you arrive at 16 foot pounds. Then go in 4 pound increments until both are snugged to 28 foot pounds. This is vitally important. Incorrect torquing can mean a snapped rod.

Step 16: Building the New Engine, Part 2.

Next up was the installation of the ARC billet flywheel and high torque starter. In regards to the flywheel its important to understand that the flywheel is mated to the crank via a friction fit. There is a key but all that key does is provide the means to properly align the flywheel magnets to the magneto. In order to get a tight fit, especially with 2 new parts, you need to do something called “lapping”. Simply put, it consists of using a very fine abrasive to mate the two pieces together. You can actually buy lapping compound to do this. Simply smear a bit of this onto the crank, place the flywheel on the crank and twist it back and forth. You don’t have to do this all that much. Just enough to make sure that the two pieces will be perfectly matched. Clean off the compound and then torque the flywheel down with about 100 foot pounds of torque. You do so via an air impact wrench.

Once you install the flywheel you’ll need to install the starter. This is a bit tricky with the high torque starter. You don’t want the teeth of the starter to be too tightly meshed with the ring gear of the flywheel. If you do this the flywheel will bind. The starter comes with a number of thin washers that you use as shims. Unlike typical small engine starters, this is more of an automotive starter and you can’t just “walk” the starter gear up. Instead the starter gear is tucked down out of sight. Why should you care? Because in order to get the proper gap between the ring gear and starter gear that starter gear needs to be pushed up all the way. Here’s how you can do it ( or at least how I did it). Get a small hex key, stick the short end of the hex key behind the starter gear and pull UP. With the starter gear fully pulled up, stick another hex key under the starter gear so that when you release it it won’t snap back down.

Now you’ll want to hold the starter up to the flywheel. Stick the 2 mounting bolts through the starter and into the threads in the side of the engine. Here’s where it gets “fun”. Get a paper clip. Not a weanie one either- but a large paper clip. bend the end of it down and measure the gap between the valley of the ring gear and the tip of the starter gear. The proper gap is the width of the paper clip. In order to make this work you’ll need to insert enough washers to get the correct gap. Doing this was a pain in the ass because the washers kept falling from the ends of the bolts as I tried to hold it up to the engine. It took around 3 washers on each bolt for mine to get the correct gap.

Now that we’ve finished doing that its time to install the blower housing. You’ll see right away that the ARC wheel is not as tall as the stock unit. As such the fins fall short of the blower housing by over an inch. This is not acceptable because air won’t be getting sucked into the engine cooling fins and you’ll very quickly fry the engine- ruining all those lovely high performance parts. So, as un-fun as it is, you’ll have to cut enough of the shroud to get the flywheel fins within 1/8″ of the blower housing. I measured from the top of the fins to the blower housing. I marked the amount with a permanent marker around the bottom of the blower housing and used a grinder wheel to cut it off. Again, you’ll want to make sure that you have about 1/8″ of clearance from the blower housing to the top of the flywheel fins.

With most of the engine together its time to install the “tins” and the breather plate. I re-used the plate I’d made for the old 12.5 flathead. The stock breather plate will not work. You need something that will not leak and one that will allow more air to pass through. Thus the steel plate I made has a threaded piece of pipe coming out of it with a brass barb screwed to this. I usually use a gasket making material- usually the blue stuff- and barely tighten the bolts. You’ll want the gasket material to harden before you snug down the bolts. As far as the tins, there have been some people who for some reason don’t re-install these. Without them the engine won’t cool properly. So make sure and install them and make sure they’re not bent. With that the engine is done- minus the carburetor.

Step 17: Installing New Chain Tensioner.

One of the biggest problems I had with the old mower was the rear axle chain setup. The chain repeatedly either came loose or snapped. This might have been due to the old chain being a #35 size, which is a bit small. I elected to upgrade the chain to a #40 size which meant new sprockets. At the same time I also installed a new RAGB transmission. The old one had always had a lot of play and slop in the gears. This never caused a problem. But I decided to install a duplicate I found on Ebay a year ago. The old one will serve as a spare.

The key to having the rear chain not fall off is the correct combination of proper alignment and tension. All chains will stretch as they wear. Thus the best setup involves a spring-loaded idler. In this case I used a idler sprocket. The fatter chain meant that it would be hitting the top of the transmission mount. The old #35 barely cleared it. Thus I had to cut out one side of the mount and weld a new piece behind where that piece had been. Thus the mount was staggered back enough to allow the chain to clear.

A great deal of time was spent ensuring that all 3 sprockets were absolutely aligned. This is done with a flat steel ruler. Since the tranny is more or less not adjustable the idler and rear axle sprocket both needed to be aligned with the tranny sprocket. Lay the ruler flat over all 3 sprocket surfaces in such a way as that all of the gear’s sides are totally flat- as in the ruler lays flat across all 3. Gently tap the sprockets until this happens. This needs to be absolutely perfect so spend some time.

The tensioner I use is one I made 2 years ago. I modified it to use the larger idler sprocket. I also relocated the tension spring in such a way as so it pulls directly up. Previously the spring was pulling slightly forward, which I think might have caused the idler to jump off the chain. The tensioner itself rides in a slotted piece of square tubing. A bolt runs through the slot and thus allows the entire tensioner to float up and down. The spring keeps the tensioner against the chain. As such even if the chain stretches, the tensioner will always apply the same amount of pressure.

Step 18: Re-doing Exhaust, Paint, Brakes, and Other Stuff.

Something I realized right away was that the engine was reverse of what the old 12.5 engine had been: The starter, carb, and exhaust were all on the other side. At first I didn’t think this would be that big of a deal. But the problem was that the new high torque starter stuck out so far on the right that it interfered with the brake pedal- which was on the left where the starter would now be. This meant moving the brake pedal and master cylinder to the left. This wasn’t that difficult: The MC was moved to the left and new holes were drilled for its mounting bolts. The problem arose when I realized that with the carb on the left the intake was extremely close to the brake pedal. I didn’t want to accidentally kick the carb when racing. After doing some configuring I simply welded an extension onto the end of the pedal making it wider. A piece of angle iron was welded to the top of the pedal. This ensures that my foot will not slip and wind up sliding close to the carb. After 2 races its worked out well.

The exhaust was a bit tricky. Since the exhaust was on the other side it had to be cut so the bend could be reversed to face the other way. On top of that the exhaust port was higher up than the one on the engine. In order to accomplish the additional length I welded in a piece of pipe. A word of warning: Do not weld galvanized steel. The pipe I used was galvanized but I spent a great deal of time grinding this off. If you do weld Galvanized you can get very sick.

The engine was then installed and the old clutch bolted on. This has been a fantastic clutch with over 3 years of use and hardly any wear. I did disassemble it and applied a very light coat of grease to the bearings. I also cleaned the shoes a bit.

The new hood and fenders were sanded down and painted. I used Duplicolor high heat ceramic engine paint. For some reason I’ve found its one of the best rattle can paints for getting a nice smooth finish. The color I got is called ” Cast Iron”. Pretty cool actually, and different from what most people use on their racing mowers. Seems like crazy fluorescent colors are very popular.

Step 19: Finishing Up and Final Adjustments.

With all of the sheetmetal painted the mower was fully assembled. Pretty nice looking if I don’t mind saying so. Now there was only one thing left to do- which was to race it and see what it would do. The first race was actually what we call our “Test-n-tune” day where all the new “mowchines” are brought out and tested. and tuned up.

Mine had some serious handling problems. The mower was pushing into the corners. It was so bad that I could barely stay on the track. As it turned out my steering system was wayyyyyy out of whack. To fix this I did some serious adjusting. This involved doing a few things:

1: adjusting the front right wheel so that it had more camber. As it turned out I had somehow welded the right spindle mount on at the wrong angle. Luckily all I had to do was simply thread the top heim joint inward until the camber was corrected. The right wheel was also dropped downward a bit. This enabled the right front to push down onto the front left.

2: Adjust the toe-out. As mentioned before, toe-out means how much the wheels splay outwards- as in they turn away from the mower a bit. It doesn’t take much. Only 1/8″ on each side. Doesn’t sound like much but this will greatly help the mower become far more stable.

The first “real” race we had was a huge difference. The mower did much better. That said, there are still some issues. The biggest is that I chose not to install a high performance cam. This would greatly help with low end torque and faster acceleration out of the corners. This is relatively simple to do and only involves removing the bottom of the engine. I’ll decide on what to do about this soon.

In the meantime if you want to see the mower racing in action, check out our racing group’s web site which is chok-full of videos. www.pvmowerracing.com

Thanks for reading and stay tuned for even more updates!

Kicking Grass: The Sport of Lawn Mower Racing

“Who hasn’t looked at a lawn mower and thought Gee, what if I was sitting on that doing 80 miles an hour?” That’s the thought process of Joe Troyer, a man who’s been racing lawn mowers for about 20 years now.

Troyer – and his fellow lawn mower racers around the world – are a unique breed. Most of us who didn’t grow up around lawn mower racing had no idea this grassroots motorsport even existed. But it’s international, and it’s been around for decades.

Go ahead and laugh. Even the most die-hard lawn mower racing enthusiasts know you have to have a sense of humor to be involved in something like this. But what you may not know if you’ve never experienced the sport up-close and personal is how much work and how much love goes into it.

“You can watch videos, you can read about it, and all that stuff,” says Kerry Evans, president of the U.S. Lawn Mower Racing Association, but you won’t truly understand “Until you’re standing beside that track, and you hear that loud motor coming by and feel that vibration, and say, Man, I’ve never seen a lawn mower go that fast.“

Lawn mower racing might sound like a joke at first, but take a look under the hood. You’ll find a supportive community of people who love what they do – and love helping newcomers get involved, too.

So, what exactly is lawn mower racing? Who are the people racing lawn mowers? We’ve got all the dirt.

The Roots of Lawn Mower Racing

The first lawn mower race took place in 1963 in a tiny town called Twelve Mile, Indiana. But that race, dubbed the Twelve Mile 500, was only the beginning.

In 1973, a group of motorsports enthusiasts in the UK got together and started the first national mower racing league, the British Lawn Mower Racing Association (BLMRA). Word spread, and in 1992, the U.S. followed suit with its own United States Lawn Mower Racing Association (USLMRA).

From the beginning, this sport was far more wholesome than you might imagine. The whole point of that first lawn mower racing league in Britain was to create an equal playing field for everyone, no matter where they come from or how much money they make.

Lawn mower racing has never been about the money. All the proceeds of those early races went to local charities, and most races today still give their profits back to the local community.

Want to know more about how lawn mower racing came to be? Check out LawnStarter’s History of Lawn Mower Racing.

Lawn Mower Racing Today

While the original spirit and core values of the lawn mower racing community have persevered through time, the sport itself has come a lawn way since those early days. Watch any YouTube video that pops up when you search “lawn mower racing,” and you’ll see feats people couldn’t have dreamed of in the ‘60s and ‘70s.

Mowers speeding at more than 100 mph, races that last for 12 hours straight, young kids racing alongside their parents – it’s insane, and it’s beaut-turf-ful. These are just a few highlights of what today’s lawn mower racing looks like, but there’s a whole world to explore if you want in on this wild ride.

BEFORE You BREAK IN Your New Lawn Mower Engine, WATCH THIS!

The Machines

If you’ve ever cut your grass with a riding lawn mower, you know they usually move at about 6 or 7 mph, maybe 10 mph if you really push it. So … how on turf do the mowers in these races go so fast?!

These aren’t your garden-variety lawn mowers. They started out as the same models you can find at Lowe’s or Home Depot, sure, but they’ve been modified since then, usually by the racers themselves.

For many participants, building impressive engines is as important to the sport as the racing itself.

Kerry Evans owned a small engine repair shop before he ever even heard of lawn mower racing. He got involved for the first time when a customer came in asking him to build an engine for a racing lawn mower. 25 years later, building lawn mower racers is still his favorite part.

“To me, the fun of the sport is that I start with an old, junky lawn mower and make it go fast,” he says.

Many others got into the races the same way Evans did. They’re mechanics, gearheads, and tinkerers who love the challenge of turning a tool made to cut grass into a mean, green speed machine.

With so many inventive minds in the mix, the results are astonishing.

Speed Demons

In 2010, Evans helped driver Bobby Cleveland build the mower that broke the world record for the fastest lawn mower ever reported. Its top speed? An incredible 96.529 mph.

Like any great artist, though, Miller says he’ll never really be “finished” with that mower. He’s driven it at speeds up to about 70 mph, but there’s always something he can do to make it a little better, a little faster.

Now that he’s older, the new FOCUS of his modifications is making the mower a little easier to handle so it’s not as hard on him.

The first Troyer to get involved with the race was Larry, who worked as a pit crew member for a friend back in the ‘70s. In the ‘80s and ‘90s, his brothers Gary, John, and Randy all decided they wanted to sit in the driver’s seat, one-by-one.

Randy Troyer says his logic behind wanting to race was simple: “Well, everybody else is doing it, so I might as well do it, too.”

The next generation, Zach and Joe, worked as pit crew until they were finally old enough to race themselves in the early 2000s. Now, the Troyers have more than 20 wins under their belt collectively, and they’re well known among locals.

“If I meet somebody I don’t know from anywhere in the surrounding counties,” says Joe Troyer, “They’ll say, ‘Oh, Troyer – are you the ones that race the lawn mowers?’”

Helping Other Lawn Mower Racers

Along with the racing itself, the Troyers are well-known for their generosity. They use their mechanical background to help out anybody who wants to race but doesn’t have the expertise to rig their own mower.

“I don’t think there’s one of us that races that wouldn’t help somebody build a mower,” Zach Troyer says.

In the lead-up to race day, they’ll have seven or eight mowers in Joe’s body shop that they’re working on for other people. Even on the day of the race itself, they’ll help the other racers with final adjustments. It makes for a more fun and competitive race, they say, when everybody’s mowers are running at the top of their game.

Lots of Data and ‘a Sense of Humor’

John Troyer, who has an engineering background, describes his approach to the race as more scientific and analytical than you might expect. He constantly wants to improve, so he tracks race data and other information in an Excel spreadsheet as a way to know what he needs to work on for next year to race even better.

He even talks about diagramming which muscles are sore in the days after the race so he can work out those muscles and get them in better shape for the next time around.

Even with all the thought he puts into his races, though, John still doesn’t take himself too seriously.

“It’s a little different than most other sports,” John says. “The chief prerequisite is that you have a sense of humor.”

That seems to be the case whether you’re in the Twelve Mile 500 or a national series race. If you’re not out to make friends and crack jokes about what you’re doing, lawn mower racing isn’t the place for you. Of course, that’s not to say the competitive spirit isn’t serious. Racers might pal around and poke fun at themselves in between races, but on the track, they’re in it to win it.

“We put on the helmets,” Chuck Miller says, “and it’s a whole different ballgame at that point.”

The Races

So, what does a lawn mower race actually look like? That depends on where you go. There are races all over the U.S. and UK every year, and each one has its own rules and setup.

No matter how different they are, all lawn mower races have at least one thing in common. Call it what you will, the rush, the excitement, the thrill of the game, but it’s always thick in the air when the engines start and the green flag goes up.

“It’s not professional like NASCAR,” Chuck Miller says, “but when you get out there on that mower, and you’re whipping around the track at 10 miles an hour or 40 miles an hour, it’s all the same. You’ve got the adrenaline pumping and the competition in your veins, and it’s just like the real thing.”

honda, hrn216vka, lawn, mower

There’s no way to shine a spotlight on all the races that happen every year without writing a whole book, but to give you a taste of how intense and exciting this sport can be, here’s a rundown of some of the biggest races in the world.

The 12 Hour

The 12 Hour is an endurance race hosted by the British Lawn Mower Racing Association each year in England. During this race, teams of three race overnight for 12 hours straight.

Imagine, half a day of non-stop roaring engines! The race starts at 8 p.m. on Saturday night, and it isn’t over until 8 a.m. Sunday morning. Speeding around an uneven, ever-shifting track at 50 mph in the dark adds a whole new thrilling (and terrifying) element to the sport.

Despite an apparent decline in interest in recent years, anyone who knows anything about lawn mower racing could tell you that it isn’t going anywhere any time soon. Not as long as there are people out there who crave the thrum of an engine, the adrenaline in their veins, and the satisfaction that comes from turning a simple grass cutter into so much more.

Main Photo Credit: François GOGLINS / CC BY-SA 4.0 / Wikimedia Commons

Jordan Ardoin

Jordan Ardoin is a writer, editor, and classical literature student based in Colorado. When she isn’t reading or writing, she enjoys goofing off with her cats and spending time in nature.

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