How to Assemble a Fishing Line on a Trimmer Reel Video
Spinning is by far the most popular gear that has gathered millions of fans. Indeed, fishing with a spinning rod is an exciting game that gives the angler a lot of positive emotions and the joy of defeating a cautious and cunning opponent. The reward in it can be a huge catfish, a decent size pike or a dozen or two of decent perches. However, not everyone manages to return home with trophies.
Spinning fishing is a complex science that can take years to master. Only knowing all its nuances can you count on a positive outcome of fishing. It is not enough here just to get a fishing rod, reel, fishing line, the first few lures that you get and go to the pond. At the initial stage, it is important to study the theory and do everything gradually, step by step. This is especially true for tool assembly. For example, winding fishing line on a spool is of utmost importance. How to reel the fishing line onto the spinning reel and it will be discussed below.
Before you fix the end of the fishing line on the spool and wrap it, you need to clearly determine the amount of material. The coil should not be filled only to half or vice versa with a "slide". In the first case, the fishing line will go badly off the spool, which will negatively affect the casting distance, and in the second case, dropping loops and the formation of so-called beards cannot be avoided.
Another factor affecting fishing comfort is winding density. Professionals do not recommend winding with great force, that is, making the tension too strong, otherwise the same thing will happen as with insufficient filling of the spool – when casting the fishing line it will go off with difficulty.
Modern inertialess coils are able to rotate in both directions (clockwise and counterclockwise), so it is important not to make a mistake with the direction of the winding. It must match the working rotation of the spool.
Options for winding fishing line on a spinning reel
Today, there are many reels on the fishing market, and each individual model has its own winding profile. It is cylindrical, trapezoidal or chaotic. Let’s consider each in more detail:
- Cylindrical (even) winding is a universal and most common way among lovers of feeder and spinning fishing. The friction of the fishing line during the descent and the friction on the side of the spool with such stacking is relatively low. Beard formation is not ruled out, however, with proper handling of gear, such a nuisance is rare.
- Winding with a slope – is possible in two versions, namely with a straight cone and a reverse one. The first involves laying fishing line (cord) with a variable pitch, decreasing to the wall of the spool. As a result, a larger amount of fishing line is wound near the wall, and the profile becomes conical, tapering to the side. This shape provides minimal friction, since the diameter of each subsequent turn is larger than the previous one. The reverse cone is the opposite – the steps are reduced closer to the side of the spool. In this case, friction increases and, as a result, the casting range suffers. If we compare such a winding with a cylindrical one, the difference in range is about 15-20%, although, of course, a lot depends on the settings of other gear elements. The reverse cone still has its plus – with such a laying, there is almost never a spontaneous descent. In other words, to confuse the beard, you need to try very hard.
- Random winding is a sign of poor coil quality. Beginners often purchase cheap Chinese products in order to get their hands on them, learn how to handle spinning, and then switch to high-quality reels with the correct styling. Therefore, this option also has a right to exist. Moreover, the coil is a rather expensive thing, and not everyone can afford a branded model. A chaotic winding, in which the turns “walk” around the spool unsystematically, can create many problems in the fishing process. Most often this is an involuntary gathering and tangling of the fishing line, breaks during casting are also possible due to a too tight turn.
Most spinners use inertialess reels with cylindrical winding or a slight inverse cone.
. A set may contain several washers, all of which are of different thicknesses. By reducing their total thickness, the winding is changed in the direction of the inverse cone, and an increase in thickness gives it the shape of a straight cone. Sometimes there are no washers in a box. This means that the manufacturer has already installed them, so in order to adjust the winding profile "for yourself", you will have to remove the spool.
In coils with a rear clutch, the washers are most often installed in the spool itself. Here the same principle, just the opposite. To obtain the shape of the inverse cone, the thickness of the washers is increased, and for winding with a straight cone, it is reduced.
What is backing and what is its function? This is a layer of any material designed to increase the diameter of the spool. Thanks to him, you can pick up the right amount of fishing line of a certain diameter on the reel without having to exhaust the entire bobbin to completely fill the spool. A normal nylon thread that has worked out its braided cord, fabric or PVC tape can serve as a backing. Winding the material should be as tight as possible so that the base is without dips. In the case of using a kapron thread or cord, the main fishing line is connected to the backing with any reliable unit. For example, grinner or blood.
Many people calculate the amount of backing “by eye”, but in this case there is a high probability of making a mistake, as a result of which the main fishing line (cord) is not enough or you have to wind too much. Experienced spinning agents act differently. First, they wind the main line (the required volume) onto the spare spool, and then backing. All that remains is to rewind all this in reverse order to the working spool of the same capacity. This method is the most accurate.
Video: How to Assemble a Fishing Line on a Trimmer Reel Video
Fixing fishing line on the spool
Fishing line, braided cord or backing is tied to the spool without fail. This is the first rule. Trophies are different. A large, strong fish is capable of exhausting the entire stock during the game, so with an untied fishing line it will not be possible to hold it.
You can tie fishing line (braid, backing) with any reliable self-tightening knot. The most popular spinning rods are the clinch, double loop, and arbor knot. The latter option is also called the axial node. For greater reliability, the first turn should be additionally fixed with a piece of tissue insulating tape or medical plaster, securing it in the direction of winding. Thanks to him, even a loosely tightened loop will not scroll on the spool. By the way, it is advisable to wet it before tightening the assembly. This applies to any fishing units, no matter what elements of the gear they are knitted on.
Rules for winding fishing line on a reel
Winding fishing line on the spool has a number of features and is carried out in several stages. After determining the right amount of material, you can start winding. Below is a step-by-step instruction:
- A coil is mounted in the spinning reel seat. It is not necessary to collect the rod completely; you can limit yourself to the first knee. The main fishing line or backing is tied to the spool with one of the nodes mentioned above with the open arm of the logger.
- It is important that in the process of winding the fishing line descended from a vertically held, spinning bobbin, and not flied from it in turns. There is a special hole in the bobbins for this. For example, you can ask someone to hold it on your finger or fix it in some other way. During winding, it is necessary to hold the fishing line above the first ring with one hand, thereby adjusting the winding density. You need to hold it with the same effort, without loosening the line and not pinching it too much. The free hand rotates the handle of the coil.
- You can’t gain too much volume at which the line reaches the edge of the spool rim, this is fraught with dropping loops and “beards”. The correct winding is 2-3 mm from the edge of the side.
- After winding, the end of the fishing line is inserted into the clip located on the side of the spool.
Many, having developed a factory line on a newly acquired trimmer, try to rewind a new one, but they cannot, because they do not know how to wind the line onto the reel spool (bobbin). It seems that there is an instruction, but it still doesn’t work out. Let’s try to deal with this issue in this article.
So, to rewind the fishing line, you need, for starters, to remove the reel from the trimmer – it will be more convenient. The removal method will depend on the type of trimmer.
Remove the coil from the trimmer
On small electric trimmers with the bottom position of the engine (when it is when working near the ground), the coil usually has two keys on its sides. We click on them and disconnect one half of the coil body from the second, which remains on the trimmer. Together with the first half, the inner part is taken out, on which the fishing line is directly wound. When parsing, be careful: there is a spring inside that can fly out and get lost.
On electric and petrol trimmers with a curved bar (it is still not possible to put a knife on such trimmers), you need to grab the coil body with one hand, and with the second hand you need to start turning the lamb on it. It is he who fastens the coil to the trimmer bar. Having unscrewed the lamb, carefully remove the entire coil, being careful not to lose the spring inside.
On electric and petrol trimmers with a straight rod and a gearbox at its end (in addition to fishing line, you can also install a knife on such trimmers) we look for a hole under the coil, insert a screwdriver into it, for example, rotate the coil quietly until the screwdriver penetrates even deeper, and the coil will lock. Now twist the entire coil clockwise (since the thread is left) and remove it from the trimmer. Then we disassemble the coil. It can be assembled using latches or twisted by a lamb. If the coil is on latches, then we press on the sides on the base of the latches so that they bend and release one half of the coil body from the other. We just twist the lamb. There may also be a third type of connection of two halves of such a coil: with it, you need to grab the lower part with one hand, and the upper one with the other, and start turning them in opposite directions. When disassembling such a coil, you must also make sure that the spring inside is not lost.
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Now, having removed and disassembled the coil, we proceed, in fact, to winding.
If your coil is designed to work with only one antennae, then everything is simple. You need to rewind 2-4 m of fishing line (depending on the size of the reel), find the hole fixing the line on the inside of the reel, insert one end of the line there and start reeling the line in the direction opposite to the direction of rotation of the reel on the trimmer. On the inside of the reel, they usually indicate an arrow, in which direction to wind the line. After winding up the fishing line, we leave a small piece of it unwound to expose it. We fix this piece in a special groove located on the inside of the reel and designed so that the fishing line does not unwind at the time of collection of the reel. If there is no such groove, then you will have to hold the fishing line with your finger to prevent it from unwinding during the further collection of the reel. Next, we take the outer part of the reel and thread the outer piece of fishing line into the existing hole, collect and put the reel back on the trimmer.
If the coil is designed to work with two antennae, then do the following. On the inside of the reel, we see how many grooves are available for winding fishing line. There may be one or two. If there is one groove, then both antennae are wound along this same groove. If there are two grooves, then each antennae is wound on its own groove. The reel with one groove should have a through hole into which the line is threaded. Unwind 2-4 m of fishing line, thread it through this hole so that on each side of the fishing line sticks out equally. And at the same time we wind both antennae of the fishing line in the same direction, opposite to the direction of rotation of the coil on the trimmer and coinciding with the direction indicated by the arrow on the inside of the coil. We leave a little fishing line unwound, we fix the ends in special grooves, and if they are not there, hold them with our fingers. Pass both ends into the holes on the outer coil body. We assemble the coil and attach it to the trimmer.
If there are two grooves, we fold the piece of fishing line 2-4 m long in half, insert the loop obtained at the bend point into the groove between the two grooves, and simultaneously wind both ends of the fishing line in each groove. Further actions are similar to the previous option.
There are still reels in which the line is threaded through a through hole on the inside. After that, the ends of the fishing line, without winding, are threaded completely through the holes on the outer casing of the reel, the reel is assembled and the button, which is usually pressed, is rotated so that the line can be released during operation as it wears out. Turn the button – the line itself is wound inside. At the same time, turning it in the “wrong” direction will not work, since it can only spin in one direction. If you get used to it, then you can wind the line onto such a reel without even taking it apart – you just need to combine the through hole of the inner drum with the holes on the outer case of the reel, and then thread the line into them.
That’s all for the matter. Good winding!