How to cut a plastic terrace board.

Than sawing

Что можно сделать с доской? К примеру, распилить. Отмерили все раз этак семь, разметили, пилим. Пилим, понятное дело, пилой, а вот какой? Пилы, как известно, бывают ручные, электрические и бензиновые.

Let’s first figure out that there are manual saws. In stores and markets, this good is enough, and domestic specimens are not inferior to similar imported. Finally, we learned to make strong canvases and more or less comfortable handles, which do not rub corities on their hands during work. By the way, at the price of “ours” and imported saws do not differ very much. In one of the following numbers, I will definitely talk about hand saws in more detail, but now I want to give a couple of useful tips that first of all I need to know when you buy a manual saw.

First, never buy hacksaws or interchangeable canvases (especially metal) of Chinese production. They saw poorly, but break well-apparently due to violation of hardening technology. This is discarded money.

Secondly, the so-called “self-so-staining” saws have come on sale now. As the sellers explain, the saw “when working by itself, it is sharpened by friction about the processed material”. Therefore, they say, such a saw always remains acute. Do not believe. there are no miracles. It’s the same that your car will not only consume fuel while driving, but also develop it yourself. The “secret” of these “miracle saws” is ridiculous: the canvas is made of harder material than usual, and therefore remains sharp several times longer. But keep in mind: when I saw it nevertheless, it will be very difficult for you to sharpen it again-it is precisely because of the hardness of the material! (By the way, it is easy to sharpen an ordinary hacksaw using a file and a file. Describing this process on paper is an ungrateful lesson. In any village there is a craftsman who will gladly explain it to you “on the fingers”.)

Move on. Following the list. electric saw. There are many models of different manufacturers, which, of course, differ in price and quality. It is clear that the main difference between the existing types of electric saws is the principle of action, but almost all of them (to a certain extent) are interchangeable.

We will deal with their classification. Electric cars, like everything in this world, are imported and domestic. Imported are divided into disk (circular), lobe, end (the principle of action is the same as disk), saber, chain and carpentry electro.burners. Domestic are divided into disk, lobe and chain. Other species, at least to me, are unknown.

Let’s start with disk electric saw. The cutting tool in them is a metal disk with sharp teeth, which rotates around its own axis at high speed. The disk saw is used to perform long straight slots. The saw can be held in your hands and moved relative to the cut surface, or you can fix the saw in the bed and move the processed material itself (with large volumes of work, it is best to do so).

Disk electric saws are very useful for summer cottage construction and repair. Here, for example, is a specific case.

I have one friend. a man “with golden hands”. He earned very well. he “worked” from dawn to dawn. And sometimes spent the long-awaited vacation in the stuffy, of course, he got out of some resort, but A person did not lie in a soul for such a vacation. And he decided to build a house for himself in a bribeing a plot, put a log house, began to attach a terrak. Well, then. the familiar story is painful for everyone: crisis, loss of work, random and minor earnings In general, the frame is made under the terrace, but there is nothing to overtake. there is no “golden” reserve.

And then a miracle happened! The man fell the opportunity to “privatize” a non.coded board in a sufficiently sufficiently for upholstering terrace. Well, of course, he privatized this “serial”, and then what? Overwhelm the terrace “Horbyl”? Ugly. This structure will be more like a shed, but, as you know, a terrace is needed. It was then that the “circular” purchased in better times was useful (which model-I do not know). In short, a man from these firewood sawed a normal chopped board. not “super”, of course, but quite “at the level”. He abandoned the terrace, there was also a barn left. And at his leisure, my friend took up counting. It turned out that in the end he completely paid off the cost of his saw. This summer, the man is quite successfully “hackite” with the help of his “circular”, that is, he gets net profit. Here is such a story.

But just in case, I warn you: the circular saw pays off quite quickly if you are engaged in construction seriously and for a long time. When performing “piece” works, it is worth buying a house of household class and cheaper, you can use.

Now about different types of discs for circular saws. First of all, discs are with carbide attacks and without attacks. Disks without attacks are usually used to obtain clean and beautiful cuts in a soft tree. With solid wood, and even more so with metal, this disc will not cope. If a nail accidentally caught in the sawn board, then the disk will remain “without teeth”. It is impossible to reanimate it: “inserted jaws” are not released for these purposes.

In this sense, models with carbide attacks are much more interesting. Such a disk easily cut a nail that came across a “tooth” and calmly continues its (your) work. But here you have to come to terms with the fact that, working with such a disk, the drink is not very clean, even slightly “shaggy”.

About the form of teeth: they are, I am not afraid of this word, active (positive angle of sharpening) and passive (negative angle of sharpening). I will explain: if the tooth is bent as it were, in the course of rotation of the disk, this is a positive angle of sharpening; If against the move. negative. A positive angle allows you to cut wood, wood with nails, plastic, etc.P. A negative angle can saw, for example, tin and copper. Theoretically, such a disk can also be sawed by a tree, but the cut is very “shaggy”: the teeth are not cut, but the wood fibers are torn apart. So before choosing a disk, you should decide for what work you need it? And sellers will tell a specific model.

Now about specific models. I am happy to note that discs are made that are not inferior to imported analogues by neither design nor reliability. With a capacity of 1200 watts, a disc 200 mm, cut depth. up to 65 mm, is equipped with a protective casing. The price in early summer was about 1300 manufacturer. radio engineering plant. A similar model is available in Perm, the price is the same.

Advantages and disadvantages

Before starting to understand how the terrace board is attached, it is worth evaluating the advantages and disadvantages of decing. Material made in compliance with regulatory requirements:

• Environmental. For its manufacture, natural raw materials are used.
• Durable. The service life of the correctly laid coating is at least 30 years.
• Has an anti.slip surface, which significantly reduces the risk of injury during operation.
• Does not need additional protection using chemicals. You can do without varnishing and painting.
• Just mounted. Especially if you know how to put a terrace board. If necessary, dismantling.
• Presentable. Has good decorative qualities.
• Has good tactile properties. It’s nice to walk barefoot on the formed coating.
• Able to withstand significant temperature fluctuations. Retains properties at temperatures from.60C up to 80C.
• It is easily processed by cutting. Allows you to drill the fasteners.
• Represented in wide color.
• Not afraid of the effects of bacteria.

Attention! Terrace board can be of different sizes. Manufacturers offer deck 2.2. 2.8 cm thick with a width of 13.5. 14.7 cm and length 1.5. 6.0 m.

Of the shortcomings, it is worth noting the high cost compared to other types of finishing planks. The material is prone to patining, as a result of which a silver film is formed. The boards from the composite are outwardly not like products made of natural wood and do not have the same tactile qualities.

The main species

The technology for manufacturing a terrace board and its basis may vary significantly. Manufacturers offer products with a smooth surface, as well as having a texture in the form of a scar and velvet. Products with a texture surface have a profile of a rectangular and beveled look.

The last variety is used as a facing material. With its help, internal and finishing work is performed, complete or partial sheathing of residential buildings, fences, and arbors are performed. The side surfaces of the planken are made mowed or rounded. Thanks to this, it becomes possible to install it, and the formation of gaps between the elements is excluded.

Direct boards have special grooves that simplify the implementation of installation work. I figure out how to lay a terrace board with your own hands, you should seek help from professionals. They know exactly how to ensure the correct spatial position and reliable fixation of each panel.

Raw materials used for the manufacture of panels allows you to divide into natural and composite. Each species has its own distinctive features that should be taken into account when selecting a suitable option.

Natural board

For the manufacture of wooden decking, natural wood is used, mainly larch. She has the following characteristics:

Advice! Given that natural wood is used for the manufacture of a terrace board, some difference in texture and shade is permissible.

Larch. wood of light tones. To obtain the desired color, the material is tinted by applying special compositions to the formed surface.

To improve operational characteristics, natural terrace boards are subjected to heat treatment. For this, the wood is calcined at a temperature close to 200 ° C for a given time. Passed by thermal effects of terrace boards:

• better resist the effects of moisture, making the possible cladding of surfaces outside the building;
• have good heat.insulating properties;
• have a clear and organic texture, improving the appearance and tactile sensations when touching the formed coating;
• do not rot for a long period of time;
• have biological resistance.

Composite board

In the manufacture of wood-polymer composite, a composition is used, including various materials. Prepared components are interconnected using a polymer binder. Most often, grain starch is used to form decing. A certain amount of fiberglass, pulp industry and other components are added to it.

The color and texture of future planks is determined at the stage of production. To do this, a certain amount of dyes mixed in a given proportion is added to the main material. The size and configuration of ready.made panels affects how the terrace plastic board is attached.

The stages of the installation of decing

1 Preparation of the base

For this, the upper layer of soil is completely removed, and form a sand and gravel pillow. The best basis is the surface of their concrete. It is not allowed to install the board on open ground, grass or sand. Before starting installation, it is worth making sure that water does not linger on the basis. Lags must be installed along the drain, in the opposite case, it is necessary to make an clearance between them so that the water flows freely.

Lags are laid on the base, and fixed using dowels. The distance between the lags should not exceed 35-45 cm. If the board has a thickness of 19-20 mm, then the distance between the lags is 40 cm. If the material has a large thickness, then you can allow a distance of 60 cm.

If the surface is uneven, then adjustable lags can be installed. When laying, it is necessary to make a slope at a slight angle, this will make it possible to drain water.

2 installation of the board

In order to install boards, stainless steel brackets are used. They are also fixed with self.tapping screws. This makes it possible to form a gap of 5-7 mm.

If the board had to be cut during operation, then the open surface is treated with a special wax emulsion. In order to avoid cracking, all holes make in advance.

To consolidate decing, use an open or closed method. The second option for fastening the terrace board allows you to make the surface more attractive, and fastening is strong and more reliable.

When installing it, it is very important to figure out how to fix the terrace board correctly. If the boards are located where moisture will affect them, during the installation process, it is worth leaving a gap between them. It should be taken into account the increase and decrease in size as a result of temperature changes and leave a small space between the strips. Also a gap is necessary under the terrace board. Free space will provide ventilation and prevent mold formation.

The first board is placed at a distance of 15 mm from the edge or wall and reliably fixed. After that, the hidden fasteners are installed and fixed with screws on the board and on the lag. After that, the following boards begin to lay. The distance between the boards should be at least 4-7 mm. It is controlled using various inserts. The last board is fixed in the same way as the first.

Features of work with larch

Before starting installation, the material should be removed from the package for several days on the street or under a canopy, so that it adapts to air humidity. Before starting work, you should carefully figure out how to fix the terrace board from larch.

For decing, bars of the same material are used from larch. They are installed using special supports that can be adjusted. All end parts are treated with special compounds based on wax, and the surface is covered with an antiseptic. Do not allow the contact of the tree with the soil. The distance between the lags should be the same. All the bars are exposed with the help of the level, and make sure that they are located parallel to each other. The smaller interval between bars, the higher the permissible load on the surface.

4 installation of the stairs

The porch of the terrace board has a presentable look, does not need special care, and serves for a long time. For such designs, it is best to use a composite board. It is not subject to rapid washing, and does not glide even with water on the surface. Steps from the terrace board have a width of 30 cm and a height of 15 cm. This option is considered the most convenient and ergonomic. If necessary, you can make a design with other sizes.

Installation and installation technology. how the plastic floor is attached

Often laying the terrace board is carried out openly, the board breaks through the fastener chosen by the master. The latter are placed on two regional points, and in places where the bars intersect.

For fastening, it is recommended to use screws, which stand out by their anti.corrosion coating. This is necessary in order to extend the performance of the material. Hidden installation is also often carried out.

Here about the installation of a terrace board from larch. Kleimers are used for this, but, in terms of their technical characteristics, this installation method is much more difficult.

After all, it is necessary to pay attention to the dimensions of terrace boards and that the material can expand and narrow depending on temperature fluctuations. This can cause the shift of the coating, which will lead to negative consequences in the future.

With successful installation, the surface and the coating itself will be perfect, and the presence of hidden mounts will immediately talk about the professionalism of the installation team.

Plastic terrace board, composite, larch larch, the price of which depends on the manufacturer and other factors, quite easy to care. Here about the terrace board of the Little Little Board. In the summer and spring months, it must be washed with ordinary soap water.

For more thorough cleansing, it is allowed to use hard brushes and any detergents. In autumn, the material can be cleaned of contaminants of calcium saline of hydrochloric acid, which melts ice.

Several installation nuances

Regarding the distance between the lags, it must correspond to the load:

• With the permissible (optimal) load, you should adhere to the range between the bars of 400 mm:
• With a passing 300–350 mm:
• With a high. 150–200 mm:
• Bars can be wooden, plastic or aluminum. The basis from which they will be made varies from choosing a load on the foundation. With an average load, lags can be wooden or plastic;
• at high load, more rationally use stronger materials. The size of the installed bars should be at least 40 mm.

Next, the material is attached to the bars. The first board is attached with a curly nail or special clips.

The repairman makes the place for attaching the first board on his own. Here about the attachment of a terrace board from larch. The second and all other boards must be attached by clips to the previous analogue. When installing the boards, all the ends of the bars are closed.

The advantage of working with such material is the ability to cut or process it regardless of the angles.

Thanks to this, the flooring becomes as interesting as possible, which allows you to realize even the most daring design solutions.

The dimensions of the terrace board from wood-polymer composite

The polymer deck is non-standardized, so there is no need to talk about some single sizes. Each manufacturer produces such products that he considers the necessary. We can say about the dispersion of parameters and what sizes are optimal.

Such a parameter as the thickness of the board wood-polymer composite is important. But not by itself, but in combination with the thickness of the partitions and the thickness of the facial layer. This is what the strength gives the product, is responsible for the wear resistance and service life. So, these are the parameters of the hollow terrace composite board:

See the partitions yourself, the information about them is almost nowhere to be indicated. It is desirable that they are no thinner than 3-4 mm, ideally-4 mm. As for horizontal surfaces, it is better if they are 6-8 mm or more.

When choosing the dimensions of wooden-plastic decking, remember that the principle of styling is the same as the usual board-on the lags. These are bars of rectangular or square section. The thinner the board, the more often you need to put the lags. Otherwise, the coating will bend underfoot. And yes, a thicker board is more expensive, but it requires less lag. The difference in cost will certainly be. But it is usually not so impressive, given the cost of the lag too.

A staircase made of wood-polymer composite also looks beautiful and is convenient in operation

So what size is it better to take a terrace board wood-polymer composite? For private use, take the deck in a thickness of at least 24-26 mm. About the width. a matter of taste. But the wider the board, the less fastener you need. With the indicated thickness of the boards, the step of installation of the lag is 40-50 mm.

Methods of installation

A terrace board of wood-polymer composite can be laid on lags or on a concrete base. But only certain types of coating are placed on concrete and the site should be almost perfectly flat. Most of the polymer board for terraces is placed in the lags. Lags can be:

• Wooden antiseptic, impregnated with a composition for direct contact with the soil.
• Special of the same material-lags from wood-polymer composite

Terrace board of wood-polymer composite: installation system

Lags for laying a terrace board can be laid on a prepared concrete site. Concrete can be in the form of plates or in the form of a screed. It is possible to lay on piles with a strapping or columns. If the base is uneven, the lags are set to the level using gaskets. It is better to use rubber, but you can cut glassizol or other material into squares, which has sufficient strength and waterproofing properties.

This is how the composite board for terraces is attached. In general, the shape of the fasteners, the distance between the boards of each company has its own

Usually recommend special lags from wood-polymer composite. They have a special groove for the installation of fasteners-metal Z-shaped plates. Such a system should be offered by the seller. Applying the fasteners of other firms is problematic. the mismatch of sizes is almost guaranteed.

The frame is assembled for laying a terrace board wood-polymer composite from a profile pipe

Lags made of wood or profile pipe can be mounted through and through, but the hat should not stick out. As an option. an oenic tape that is mounted on the sides.

Terrace board wood-polymer composite: decoration of the edges of the flooring

After laying and fixing the delating board, it is necessary to close the sidewalls of the site where the types of lag. To do this, there are overlays in the form of planks of a certain width and corner of wood-polymer composite. The composite corner cannot be thin. Its thickness is a few millimeters. In places of active walking, he is quickly erased. Therefore, for these areas, an aluminum corner painted with a coating is more often offered. This is not the only possibility of finishing the edge. There are also edge plugs from the same wood-polymer composite, but they do not close the lags. If this does not bother you, use only plugs.

If the site or terrace is adjacent to the house, you can finish the joint with a plinth of wood-polymer composite. But the option with plastic skirting boards is no worse. They are of a variety of shapes and flowers and are much cheaper. If there is a need to save, this is one of the ways.

Materials and features of their choice

You will need the following materials in your work:

Terrace board. If it is precisely the wood-polymer composite decing, then you should pay attention to the ratio of components in the composition, the operational characteristics of the future coating depend on this. This information should be contained on the package.

If the wood filler is much larger than the polymer, the deck “inherits” all the shortcomings of natural wood dust. It becomes more fragile, less moisture resistant and, accordingly, short.lived.

With the predominance of polypropylene, on the contrary, all wood properties are lost, and the board itself is more like a plastic bar, slippery and not quite attractive.

Therefore, for climate and from the aesthetic side it is best to choose the average option. 50/50.

ATTENTION! Keep in mind that it is better to take boards with a small margin. In the case of a marriage in some planks, their damage during installation or subsequent replacement/repair, it will be difficult to purchase deck exactly in tone. for this the material should be from one batch.

Composite lags are great for home installation with a low load coefficient. They are resistant to the influence of an aggressive external environment and are strong enough for private use.

ATTENTION! Although on many resources they say that the lags can be from any material, it is better to use a wood-polymer composite when installing similar decing, since the temperature extensions of a tree and a composite are different!

Fasten elements. It is necessary to prepare the Klaimers. If you want to make a minimum gap between the decking strips from 1 mm, purchase metal clips (from stainless steel), but it is most advisable to take plastic ones. the gap will be noticeable (4–7 mm), but this is how the underground ventilation of open terraces improves so. Self.tapping screws are used special, with anti.corrosion coating.

The finishing angle or end strips is necessary as a decorative framing of the external ends of the boards.

Instruments for installing a terrace board

Each owner will have tools necessary for laying tools. This is a standard household set.

During the installation of the wood-polymer composite, you will need:

• Electric saw. end for transverse cutting or disk for longitudinal materials during adjustment, or an electrician.
• Electric drill.
• Screwdriver (if it is convenient for you to drill and twist a drill, you can do without it) or a screwdriver.
• The usual bubble level.
• Roulette.
• Construction pencil.
• Rubber kiyanka.
• Carrying (extension cord) for working with wired power tools.

Installation work

Below is the option of attaching a terrace board to lags from a wood-polymer composite. The essence of the technology is that the boards are laid perpendicularly installed lags. Given that the larger percentage of the composition in the terrace board is wood, this material has the ability to expand and narrow. As a result, it is necessary to leave a small gap between the lags along the length of at least 10 mm and from the wall or other structures at least 20 mm.

It is important to achieve all the flooring is well ventilated. For this, the wood-polymer composite of the lags are laid on the supports of metal or plastic. Plus, it is necessary to ensure that each end of the wood-polymer board lay on the lag, and not hanging.

Advice! It is recommended to fasten the terrace board at a temperature of at least 5 ° C.

The first board should be attached from the fixed side, for example, from the wall. The first board is fixed with self.tapping screws at an angle of 45 ° to the supporting lags. The last board will be attached in the same way. Before twisting the screw, be sure to drill the mounting hole of the corresponding diameter. Each subsequent board to the reference lags will be fixed using a special galvanized mount. Also, these clips can be made of plastic. Their use allows you to create an equal gap along the entire length between the terrace board. For the amenities of installation in the board there is a special groove where the clip is fixed using a self.tapping screw. Start mounting the clip from one edge and on each lag. But before that it is important to make sure that the board has become in its place.

Advice! If it is necessary to cover a large area, then you can carry out a method of installing a rang. In this case, each subsequent board will shift in relation to the previous one at a certain distance.

During the installation process, you should not immediately be distracted and adjust each board to size along the edges of the terrace. After all the protruding ends can be cut into one saw a disc saw. The result will be very beautiful.

The last strokes

After all the turnkey terrace boards are completed, the last bar must be performed, which consists in processing all the ends. One of the methods. use a special decorative bar. To install it in a lag or end part of the board, it is necessary to drill a hole for screws for attaching the bar. You can also use aluminum corners or special corners from a wood-polymer composite. Each decorative element should be attached to its place through fixed limiters.

During the installation work, errors are allowed that affect the operational characteristics. For example, in a hurry they forget to make ventilation gaps between the lags along the entire length and between the wall. As a result, this can lead to deformation of the laid flooring. Also screws or screws are very tightly clamped. This issue needs a measure.

Plus everything, improper organization of water flow is carried out. Worse is that the flooring itself and the lags are mounted strictly in level. In this case, rainwater and other moisture will accumulate on the surface. Because of this, the terrace board may absorb moisture. Although today there are types of terrace board, which absolutely does not absorb moisture, but it has a pretty high cost.

Violation of these rules can lead to irreparable consequences. Therefore, given all the warnings, the following cannot be allowed:

• Flooding the structure of the flooring and the lag with water for more than 4 days.
• When cleaning the surface, it is unacceptable to use a metal scrap or spatula. They can damage the upper layer of the terrace board. It is best to use brushes with a soft pile.

Tools and materials necessary for installation of wood-polymer composite

To lay a terrace board, you will need:

• Building materials for the formation of the base for laying: bulk materials (PGS, gravel, crushed stone, sand), concrete for filling the foundation, concrete blocks, paving slabs, adjustable supports and other means for the formation of the base for laying;
• Geotextile or roofing material to prevent weed growth under the flooring;
• Special pipes for drainage;
• A set of wood-polymer composite lag, initial and finish guides, fasteners, rubber “pillows” and other accessories;
• Drill;
• Circular saw or angular grinder;
• Hydraulic level;
• electric screwdriver or screwdriver;
• Roulette and pencil;
• Kiyanka.

Installation of terrace boards wood-polymer composite

Work does not begin with the leveling of the base. Experienced masters recommend first to carefully prepare for work. And the first thing the plan is the first thing.

Therefore, the process of laying the terrace board looks as follows:

Drawing up a laying scheme

To accurately calculate the required number of terrace floorboards and components, as well as the choice of optimal solution, form a drawing. It is better, of course, to use the special programs that each dealer has, but you can independently draw a scheme on paper on paper. After all, installation does not need to be carried out strictly perpendicular or parallel to the walls, other enclosing structures. You can make diagonal styling at an angle of 30 ° or more. An important point is to take into account the correct interval between the lags in the calculations:

The distance between the lags also depends on the width of the board and its fullness. If the bar is full.bodied, you can make an interval 50 cm. Hollowers with this gap will spring, bend, so the maximum distance between the support beam is up to 40 cm, for floorboards up to 22 mm wide. not more than 30 cm.

It is important to choose the installation method:

Preparation of the base

The base should be clean, durable, dry, even and frost.resistant. You can not put the bar on the ground or asphalt. Under the flooring should be a clearance for air circulation, as well as drain or rainwater drainage.

The basis for the flooring can be varied. Including:

• Concrete screed with a thickness of 8 cm or asphalt with a mandatory slope of 1 cm for each linear meter (or 1. 1.5 °) from static buildings or structures. Potholes, pits, loose areas are not allowed. If the base is already ready, and the slope is absent, you can cut the strokes with a 3 cm wide and up to 1.5 cm deep in concrete under the slope.
• Sand-gravel or gravel-sand “pillows”, which is formed by vibrotrams of the soil with subsequent filling of bulk materials and their compaction. The total layer of the base is 8-10 cm. On top of the prepared base, you can laid geotextiles or roofing material to avoid the germination of weeds. Then, with a gap of 40-60 cm, support beams or concrete slabs, metal profiles with an anti-corrosion coating, paving slabs with a size of at least 20x20x3 cm are laid. It is on this basis that the frame will be installed in the future.

The formation of surface drainage during the installation of decking on the ground is a prerequisite. To do this, you need to dig a drainage canal from the site in the ground, lay it out with geotextiles, lay special pipes with holes along the entire length, fill it with crushed stone and sand, close the soil.

Special adjustable supports of hard PVC, which were designed for the installation of flooring on asphalt, concrete and other hard surfaces.

Formation of the support frame

Two days before the start of work, the wood-polymer composite must be brought to the site and folded horizontally. Recommended temperature during installation. from 5 to 30 ° C.

The frame from the lag is laid with a minimum gap of 10 mm from the vertical enclosing structures (walls, sidewalks, columns, etc.P.). The beams are laid out on the surface with a pre-calculated interval, in each holes are drilled with a step of 50-100 cm, then the metizes are screwed up. Some manufacturers recommend fixing the lining unit with a metal mounting or steel corner.

Laying boards

Keep in mind that decinging is characterized by unidirectionality. That is, during installation, it is necessary to ensure that the lamellas lay in one direction in order to avoid some “stripes” of the flooring. Separate manufacturers draw arrows on the ends of the floorboards for this.

Laying starts from the wall or other fixed structure. The starting element (clip, corner) using self.tapping screws is fixed on the lag. The first board is installed in it and slightly knocked out by a rubber clay. The next assembly component (bracket or terminal) is fixed with a metiz on the other side of the initial bar, then the second lamella is attached and is knocked out. Remember that the floorboards need to be attached to each point of support on the lining beam.

The edge of the deck should not protrude beyond the frame by more than 5 cm. If necessary, the ends are cut by a circular saw. And the recommended thermal compensation intervals between the strips are shown in the diagram below.

If the deck is mounted in the heated premises, then the installation of lamellas is allowed. The angular compound can be carried out in two ways: diagonally with trimming and the method of selecting.

After installing the last board, the final profile or corner is mounted on it, and the ends of the boards are decorated using plugs.

The last stroke. washing the surface of the flooring with water to remove dust and sawdust. The terrace is ready for full.fledged operation.

Advice! If you need repair masters, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the works that need to be completed and offers will come to you with with from construction brigades and firms. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with work examples. It does not oblige it for free.

It differs in high hardness: it will certainly turn out to cut it with ordinary larch disks, but the process can drag out a little. Ordinary, familiar to us, wood does not have such indicators of hardness and resistance.

For successful cutting. wood-polymer composite lag. Cutting of composite steps and other products use appropriate tools for tools.

It is worth noting that the wood-polymer composite is processed mechanically approximately the same as the usual tree. It can be sawed (cut) to the desired length, drill holes in the canvas for installation. Some even manage to cut out of full wood-polymer composite boards unusual figures. But now it’s not about the masters of their craft.

Tools and materials necessary for installation of wood-polymer composite

To lay a terrace board, you will need:

• Building materials for the formation of the base for laying: bulk materials (PGS, gravel, crushed stone, sand), concrete for filling the foundation, concrete blocks, paving slabs, adjustable supports and other means for the formation of the base for laying;
• Geotextile or roofing material to prevent weed growth under the flooring;
• Special pipes for drainage;
• A set of wood-polymer composite lag, initial and finish guides, fasteners, rubber “pillows” and other accessories;
• Drill;
• Circular saw or angular grinder;
• Hydraulic level;
• electric screwdriver or screwdriver;
• Roulette and pencil;
• Kiyanka.

Installation of terrace boards wood-polymer composite

Work does not begin with the leveling of the base. Experienced masters recommend first to carefully prepare for work. And the first thing the plan is the first thing.

Therefore, the process of laying the terrace board looks as follows:

Drawing up a laying scheme

To accurately calculate the required number of terrace floorboards and components, as well as the choice of optimal solution, form a drawing. It is better, of course, to use the special programs that each dealer has, but you can independently draw a scheme on paper on paper. After all, installation does not need to be carried out strictly perpendicular or parallel to the walls, other enclosing structures. You can make diagonal styling at an angle of 30 ° or more. An important point is to take into account the correct interval between the lags in the calculations:

The distance between the lags also depends on the width of the board and its fullness. If the bar is full.bodied, you can make an interval 50 cm. Hollowers with this gap will spring, bend, so the maximum distance between the support beam is up to 40 cm, for floorboards up to 22 mm wide. not more than 30 cm.

It is important to choose the installation method:

Preparation of the base

The base should be clean, durable, dry, even and frost.resistant. You can not put the bar on the ground or asphalt. Under the flooring should be a clearance for air circulation, as well as drain or rainwater drainage.

The basis for the flooring can be varied. Including:

• Concrete screed with a thickness of 8 cm or asphalt with a mandatory slope of 1 cm for each linear meter (or 1. 1.5 °) from static buildings or structures. Potholes, pits, loose areas are not allowed. If the base is already ready, and the slope is absent, you can cut the strokes with a 3 cm wide and up to 1.5 cm deep in concrete under the slope.
• Sand-gravel or gravel-sand “pillows”, which is formed by vibrotrams of the soil with subsequent filling of bulk materials and their compaction. The total layer of the base is 8-10 cm. On top of the prepared base, you can laid geotextiles or roofing material to avoid the germination of weeds. Then, with a gap of 40-60 cm, support beams or concrete slabs, metal profiles with an anti-corrosion coating, paving slabs with a size of at least 20x20x3 cm are laid. It is on this basis that the frame will be installed in the future.

The formation of surface drainage during the installation of decking on the ground is a prerequisite. To do this, you need to dig a drainage canal from the site in the ground, lay it out with geotextiles, lay special pipes with holes along the entire length, fill it with crushed stone and sand, close the soil.

Special adjustable supports of hard PVC, which were designed for the installation of flooring on asphalt, concrete and other hard surfaces.

Formation of the support frame

Two days before the start of work, the wood-polymer composite must be brought to the site and folded horizontally. Recommended temperature during installation. from 5 to 30 ° C.

The frame from the lag is laid with a minimum gap of 10 mm from the vertical enclosing structures (walls, sidewalks, columns, etc.P.). The beams are laid out on the surface with a pre-calculated interval, in each holes are drilled with a step of 50-100 cm, then the metizes are screwed up. Some manufacturers recommend fixing the lining unit with a metal mounting or steel corner.

Laying boards

Keep in mind that decinging is characterized by unidirectionality. That is, during installation, it is necessary to ensure that the lamellas lay in one direction in order to avoid some “stripes” of the flooring. Separate manufacturers draw arrows on the ends of the floorboards for this.

Laying starts from the wall or other fixed structure. The starting element (clip, corner) using self.tapping screws is fixed on the lag. The first board is installed in it and slightly knocked out by a rubber clay. The next assembly component (bracket or terminal) is fixed with a metiz on the other side of the initial bar, then the second lamella is attached and is knocked out. Remember that the floorboards need to be attached to each point of support on the lining beam.

The edge of the deck should not protrude beyond the frame by more than 5 cm. If necessary, the ends are cut by a circular saw. And the recommended thermal compensation intervals between the strips are shown in the diagram below.

If the deck is mounted in the heated premises, then the installation of lamellas is allowed. The angular compound can be carried out in two ways: diagonally with trimming and the method of selecting.

After installing the last board, the final profile or corner is mounted on it, and the ends of the boards are decorated using plugs.

The last stroke. washing the surface of the flooring with water to remove dust and sawdust. The terrace is ready for full.fledged operation.

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