How to cut the ball from the bearing. How to make a drum drill for drilling steel

Is it possible to cut the bearing with a hacksaw for metal

If there is no corner grinder, but before it was mainly so, they took a hacksaw for metal and drank a little in a manual. The canvases quickly sat down, but there was no other way out. If the bearing was large, for example, the 319th or 322nd, did the tied, and then with a sledgehammer neatly, because it is very for a long time to cut such a long time.

If without manual labor, then a diamond cutter on a milling machine, and if with your hands, then a good hacksaw for metal (it was not so painfully sawn that; with a good stock of interchangeable canvases and a barrel from the tank’s gun, not weakly cut off the tank, not weakly cut off. )

Saw a steel clip from the bearing with a hacksaw for metal, without preliminary annealing, the matter is unpromising. The hacksaw canvas will simply slide along the clip, without applying a tangible damage to it. The file in this regard is slightly better, they can cut the grooves in the right places and then with the help of a chisel and a hammer break the clip. (Observe caution: the fragments can fly off at high speed and cause serious injuries). True, at the same time, there may be a large number of files, since they will quickly stupor. Especially with quick movements. In this regard, it is better to use a file with diamond spraying, it is much more durable. There is another proven method, but for this clip should be attressed on a steel blank. We pass through the clip across the clip, after which we strike with the help of a chisel along the electrode trace. You can also cut the clip without any tricks by a propaganda-acid cutter or electric welding. You can also a laser cut, but this is not available to everyone. Although there are firms offering laser cutting metal.

Diamond wire is pulled into the hacksaw (wire with diamond spraying) and slowly, a foal of the Chku with a water, you can at least saw a bearing, even a glass ball for fortune-telling. Patience and a little effort.

How to remove a bearing from a washing machine drum? Step-by-step instruction

Dismantling of the bearing from the tank of the washing machine

Sometimes unpleasant situations happen when the bearing is scattered, and its outer clip remains in the case. over, this clip at first glance to get out of the case is simply not realistic. The usual seizures of bearings in this case will not help, since there are simply nothing to hook them for. It can’t be knocked out either, since there is simply nowhere to hit. But not everything is as hopeless as it seems at first glance. There is a way. It lies in the fact that it is necessary to collect a whole bearing on this clip. That is, take the missing details from another bearing and install them on this clip. After that, the bearing can be knocked out of the case.

First of all, we need a similar old bearing. To do this, you need to know the number of the bearing that stood in the case. If the old bearing is not available, you will have to buy a new bearing. You can buy the cheapest Chinese bearing. It will need it once as a donor.

After the bearing. the donor was found, it must be disassembled.

How to disassemble the bearing

If the bearing is closed, then first remove the protective side lining with any sharp object.

The second step is removed the separator from the bearing. As a rule, there are two types of bearings separators. plastic and metal. If a plastic separator is installed in your bearing, then we simply squeeze it with a screwdriver in the side of the bearing.

Metal separators consist of two parts that are riveted together. Therefore, if you came across a metal bearing metal separator, then you first need to break a couple of rivets so that you can pick up the separator with a screwdriver. To do this, you need to beat with a screwdriver or any thin and durable object between the bearing balls until the parts of the separator are dispersed. After a screwdriver, pick up one of the parts and pull out the bearing with force.

The next step you need to assemble all the bearing balls nearby. This can be done again with a screwdriver.

Now it is necessary to turn the inner clip of the bearing out of the external clip. You need to turn the balls away from the balls. How to do this look at the photo below.

Remove the cage of the bearing from the body

After the bearing has been dismantled, we will deal with the removal of the cloth clip.

First, apply a lubricant to the cloth. It is needed to hold the bearing balls that we will install there.

Now glue the bearing balls on this lubricant. Set them close to each other. It is not necessary to install all the bearing balls. Two, three balls can be left.

Install the internal clutch of the bearing.

Now you need to dilute the balls evenly around the circumference of the clip.

After the bearing balls have been installed in the right position, it became possible to knock the bearing on its inner clip. You can start knocking out the bearing.

Displacing method

This grandfather’s method is suitable for removing the bearing of a dull hole. over, it must be planted with a slight tightening. Usually it is unusually difficult to pick it out of there. the seat of the node without gaps. You can get a part due to compression pressure from the inside of the landing pressure. For the operation, we will prepare:

We fill the hole with grease to the end, trying to fill it completely. With small blows of the mandrel we achieve the flow of oil under the balls. Having driven the lubricant inside, we drive it with small sharp blows with a mandrel inside the seat. At first it will seem that everything is useless. the bearing is worth it, and the oil disappears inside. But it is worth conducting a series of filling with grease and sharp blows, as the part will squeeze out of the deaf hole. The best result is achieved by driving a mandrel with a minimum clearance and a length of at least 3 thicknesses of the bearing.

Instead of oil, wet paper or plasticine is often used.

Removing an indoor bearing

The method is similar to supplanting, but without the use of a mandrel. It is necessary to achieve lubrication under the bearing. The composition of oil or viscous fluid in different ways drives inward. With neat strikes with a hammer, the internal fluid pressure increases. Expanding, she tries to push the knot we need.

The dismantling of the remains of a destroyed ball bearing is often complicated if it is impossible to drive the puller. If the clip remains in place, there is nothing to cling to the usual puller, while it is impossible to pull the spare part.

In this case, it can be removed in several ways:

• If there are not enough balls and a plastic separator. Destroy the separator with a screwdriver. After that, roll the balls in one place. the inner ring is easily removed or knocked out.
• With a metal separator, we use a strong screwdriver or punch. With the blows between the balls, we destroy the separator.
• Hopeless units will have to be cut with welding, dismantling in parts.
• The removal of the cooked node helps its heating with subsequent sharply cooing water. Ugalin, which holds the part, cracks when the temperature changes.
• Weld a metal sheet to the bearing plane. After the clamp, the part in the vice with light blows on the metal we tighten with it and the spare part itself.
• Instead of a metal sheet, you can weld the bolt into the central hole. In this case, we already act on it, swinging or pulling out the press.
• Instead of lost balls, the bolt is pushed by the appropriate size, turning around, hooking behind the rolling groove. The task of the repairman is to make enough effort to pull out “turnips”.

What is required:

Typically, a shock drill on concrete with a winning tip has a slightly different angle of sharpening, so it is not able to cope with the drilling of steel. To do this, it should be rewinded on the sandpaper.

Attention! There is one nuance. Concrete drill so that it can drill the metal, it is necessary to rewind. The drill finishing can be done using a diamond disk. On the attack, corners and sharp edges are displayed, as on ordinary metal drills.

Of course, it will not enter it like oil, like expensive universal or specialized drills, but still he will be able to drill hot blades of knives made in the USSR, files, and even a bearing ball. See the photo below:

Such a drill can be drilled all “problematic” metal.

Everything is very simple: we clamp the bearing in the locksmith grip, and drill a hole with a drill over the concrete at a speed of 2000-2200 revolutions per minute. It is better to do this on a drilling machine.

By the way, you can drill a ball from the bearing in the same way. You also clamp in a vice and drill. So that the ball is tightly clamped in a vice, take two hexagonal nuts. Watch photos or videos, which is below:

Drill a bearing or a steel ball from it is better on dry. without oil and water. But it is important not to overheat the drill. Of course, the drill will not last for a long time, but such a drill is not so expensive, so it is not a pity.

You can, of course, have anneal (release) parts and drill a regular drill. If the bearing will not work for sure for its direct purpose. It’s like an alternative to the first option. But there are other reasons. When you need to drill a bearing.

Why might need to drill a bearing

The key reason why you need to make a hole in this part lies in the malfunction of the mechanical elements. Bearings often fail for the following common reasons:

• A very poor lubricant is used to lubricate parts;
• the getting of the mud in the bearing, the presence inside solid and liquid elements, which violate the tightness of the design of the part, as a result of which the lubricant begins to proceed;
• negative influence of electric current, which passes through the bearing;
• errors when adjusting the part associated with an increase in the temperature of the part, heating above the norm and the appearance of the backlash;
• Incorrect installation and improper installation of the bearing, during which there was a strong piercing of the conical coupling;
• Strong load on part.

For all these reasons, you may need to drill a bearing to rectify the situation.

How to make a drill drill using a bearing

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What will be needed: self.tapping screw, bearing ball

You should start with the fact that you will need to choose such a ball from the bearing, the diameter of which would correspond to the diameter of the drill. The easiest way is to break his bearing with a hammer, having previously wrapped it in a fabric. As a basis for the future drill, we take ordinary self.tapping screw. Its length should be enough for drilling. The screw cap is pre.grinded. He himself should be a little less (in diameter) than a ball.

A small nut is clamped in a vice, on which the ball is placed. It will be a temporary stand. Following this, carefully put a hat of the screw to the ball and weld them into one. The protruding diameter of the ball and welding should be removed using sandstone. It is important to process the future drill so that there are no angles left.

Next, using all the same emery, we drag the ball so that a spiral drill is made of it. If necessary, give it the form of a pen. When this is done, a new drill will have to be tempered. After welding, the ball will lose its hardness, which means it will need to be restored. An ordinary gas burner will help in this matter. The metal is brought to orange, after which it is immersed for a few seconds in oil.

After quenching, the tip of the drill is without fail. In no case should you sharpen the drill before hardening. This can lead to a deterioration in the quality of the working edge. The drill made will cope with almost any metal perfectly.

How to drill a cage of a bearing

Hi all! Probably this question, but he touched me especially clearly! or my car complies with the rules prescribed by the manufacturer!))) It is said that the hubs are most often changed from 60,000 to 100,000 mileage. No sooner said than done!I took a car from a mileage of 63,000 km, well, up to 100,000 changed all 4 hub bearings, or rather a hub t.To now it is one whole!I will say more! I am because of wear, that is, because of a significant play of the wheel, I changed only 1 hub! All the others did not go through the check due to noise! Enrages!When the 2 hub flew, I began to think, after 3. to think diligently. Everything happened in 2 years and 40,000 run.

We approach the climax after 4 broken hubs, I dismantled everything.

1) If the hub has a backlash. It can be removed and a little “squeezed” the explanation does not require t.to. In most cases, there is already wear on the guide paths (on the internal and outer clip of the wheel bearing), as a result of the same backlash.2) all this can be diagnosed earlier-but no one is doing this! For laziness or once or not a hole or yes no matter everyone has different reasons!3) all this disgrace can be offered! )))

(Most likely this is a TVRC and this is a separate story of the deterioration of mechanical engineering, because the bearings are made of a special alloy, and not try to do with hardening or alloyed steel! Although again I am right)), by laying a certain depth of this strengthened layer, you can calculate the service life of the node! What was done))) carried as usual.

In the end, I took a carbide drill for 3 mm. And continued them.If we drill in the center, we are not afraid to spoil something Subsequently, we fall into a cavity with a depth of 5 mm and rest against the inner clip.Cut the thread, screw the butter and syringe)) I snapped a mobile, blue, high.temperature. Until the air stops through the oil seals and the native white grease climbs out!Do not forget to scroll the hub for uniform distribution of lubrication!

My native hubs rejected by the noise (Orijinal) I also sorted out and oh my god !They did not have enough lubricants with a gulkinupoille- the hub overheated the hardened layer made an independent vacation (became softer), well, it went!Yes, by the way, filling the cavity with a large amount of lubrication prevents moisture from getting there due to overcoming small rivers, fords, puddles! Nevertheless, they know if a heated hub, a cavity with air in it, cool sharply, for example immersion in water, there is a low pressure and water rushes there not just by gravity))))) Remember the closed plastic bottle taken out into the street!

The fourth hub was set by the GSP. China)), visually the quality of the norms, and the layers and casting without a burr and is drilled in the same way.

P.S (for 4 noisy hubs, after its treatment without removing the car, I drove another year, 18000 km, then changed when the backlash appeared!)Good luck to all!

It is impossible to drill a ball from a bearing manually. And all the tips that the ball must be released and thus remove the hardening, after which you can drill, you should not listen, like the tips, that the ball can be tap. There is only one way to make a hole in the ball from the bearing, but for this you need to have your own current machine or have access to the machine in production. Well, and own experience on the machine, of course, you need. All cunning (or wisdom) is the drill. The hole in the bearing on the lathe is drilled using a drill of the desired diameter, which is called a feather and used if necessary to drill holes in tiles or glass. Here is his photo

To dispel doubts, I attach a video on which the process of drilling the ball is demonstrated. True, at the end of the drilling, the drill broke, but he drilled enough to put the ball on any bar

A lot of masters, ask themselves the question of how to drill a ball from the bearing, for the manufacture of any decorative elements.

The fact is that the bearing ball is made of high.strength and and then later hardened steel, so do not even hope that this is an easy event.

Experienced specialists who have already eaten the dog on this, advise you to let go of the ball, by heating it and slow cooling.

But this does not mean that then it will be possible to drill it with ordinary low.grade metal drill.

There is far from the same, firstly, either a current or a drilling machine will be needed, a regular drill will not work, since you need a very clear centralization and a rigid mount and workpiece and cutting tools, in addition, it will be necessary to organize water supply, for cooling.

As the craftsmen advise, a drill from particularly strong alloys is best suited for these purposes, for example, how Babit or win or others will win. They are very durable, but they are afraid of overheating and fragile, so even a small vibration will interfere with you.

This is how it looks like such attacks.

In addition, when drilling, you need to use fairly low speeds, which is possible only on a low powerful equipment (turning or drilling machines).

Hi all! I decided to show the test drill test, which can be purchased at about 1 dollar. The people know it as a “feather” (feathers) and is originally intended for drilling tiles and tiles. In practice, it is already known that such a drill cope with stone, concrete, glass perfectly.

You can buy on Ali for half a bucks and deea cheaper. Ali Express.

It also copes well with highly alloyed steel. For example, drill a file with such a drill with a thickness of 5-8 millimeters not problems.I decided to give the task more difficult, drill a hole in the ball from the bearing, with a diameter of 35 millimeters.

What is required:

Typically, a shock drill on concrete with a winning tip has a slightly different angle of sharpening, so it is not able to cope with the drilling of steel. To do this, it should be rewinded on the sandpaper.

Attention! There is one nuance. Concrete drill so that it can drill the metal, it is necessary to rewind. The drill finishing can be done using a diamond disk. On the attack, corners and sharp edges are displayed, as on ordinary metal drills.

Of course, it will not enter it like oil, like expensive universal or specialized drills, but still he will be able to drill hot blades of knives made in the USSR, files, and even a bearing ball. See the photo below:

Such a drill can be drilled all “problematic” metal.

Everything is very simple: we clamp the bearing in the locksmith grip, and drill a hole with a drill over the concrete at a speed of 2000-2200 revolutions per minute. It is better to do this on a drilling machine.

By the way, you can drill a ball from the bearing in the same way. You also clamp in a vice and drill. So that the ball is tightly clamped in a vice, take two hexagonal nuts. Watch photos or videos, which is below:

Drill a bearing or a steel ball from it is better on dry. without oil and water. But it is important not to overheat the drill. Of course, the drill will not last for a long time, but such a drill is not so expensive, so it is not a pity.

You can, of course, have anneal (release) parts and drill a regular drill. If the bearing will not work for sure for its direct purpose. It’s like an alternative to the first option. But there are other reasons. When you need to drill a bearing.

Why might need to drill a bearing

The key reason why you need to make a hole in this part lies in the malfunction of the mechanical elements. Bearings often fail for the following common reasons:

• A very poor lubricant is used to lubricate parts;
• the getting of the mud in the bearing, the presence inside solid and liquid elements, which violate the tightness of the design of the part, as a result of which the lubricant begins to proceed;
• negative influence of electric current, which passes through the bearing;
• errors when adjusting the part associated with an increase in the temperature of the part, heating above the norm and the appearance of the backlash;
• Incorrect installation and improper installation of the bearing, during which there was a strong piercing of the conical coupling;
• Strong load on part.

For all these reasons, you may need to drill a bearing to rectify the situation.

Drilling the ball

If you use a drilling machine, make sure the table is blocked, and the vice is fixed on the table. The success and repeatability of this installation depends on the stiffness. As soon as everything is blocked, take your first plate, click it in a vice and drill the same size with a drill that you will drill the ball. This plate will become your clamping lid. Remove the drill (the same diameter as your balls from the bearing) or more drill. Drill a small hole in the plate. The hole should not be deeper than the radius of the ball. Check the landing of the ball to make sure that it sits well in the hole, but is not below the ball equator. Remove the first plate with a vice and insert a second plate. Repeat the lines 1-3 higher on the second plate. Now you are ready to drill the ball. If you are drilling steel ball bearings, they are most likely hardened, and they cannot be drilled with standard drills. Use any sharpener that you prefer to polish a small even spot of about the same diameter as the hole that you want to drill on a ball bearing. Lower the ball into the hole that you drilled on the lower plate. If you have found an even place, make sure that it is now at the very top. Lower the top plate on the ball and click on the spot. Tighten the clamps evenly. If you are drilling steel balls, check twice if the place that you grounded has shifted. Drill! You can also use this opportunity to knock on the ball like me.

Ready

There are many different applications for a drilled ball bearing, and even more for a ball bearing with a thread. Use your imagination and be safe! Source

If you need steel balls, but softer versions that can be easily drilled, and you do not need their super.hard, like a real ball bearing, steel balls made of ordinary steel are offered. Search for low.carbon steel balls. I want to make Newton’s really large cradle, so I need to find out how really, if I can drill a completely hard 2.5-inch ball bearing. I know enough to try. I have a carbide drill along the way. Let’s see if the grinding of a flat spot will allow the drill to penetrate the ball. I hope, as claims, only the outer shell is very solid.

How to disassemble the bearing

If the bearing is closed, then first remove the protective side lining with any sharp object.

Remove the side protective lining.

The second step is the separator. As a rule, separators are of two types. plastic and metal. If you have a plastic separator, then we simply squeeze it out with a screwdriver in the side.

Squeeze the separator.

We take out the separator.

Metal separators consist of two parts that are riveted together. Therefore, if you came across a metal separator, then you first need to break a couple of rivets so that you can pick it up with a screwdriver. To do this, you need to beat with a screwdriver or any thin and strong object between the balls until the part of the separator will disperse. After a screwdriver, pick up one of the parts and pull out with force.

We break the metal separator.

We take out.

The next step you need to collect all the balls nearby. This can be done again with a screwdriver.

Now it is necessary to turn the inner clip of the bearing out of the external clip. You need to turn the balls away from the balls. How to do this look at the photo below.

Remove the clip from the body

After the bearing has been dismantled, we will deal with the removal of the clip from the body.

First, apply grease to the clip. It is needed to keep the balls that we will install there.

We apply a lubricant to the clip.

Now glue the balls on this lubricant. Set them close to each other. It is not necessary to install all the balls. Two, three balls can be left.

Balls glued to grease.

Install the internal clutch of the bearing.

Now you need to dilute the balls evenly around the circumference of the clip.

We make balls around the circle of clips.

After the balls have been installed in the right position, it became possible to knock the bearing on its inner clip. You can start knocking out.

We knock out.

Master’s advice: how to drill a Soviet bearing

To drill a bearing or a steel ball from it, it is not at all necessary to buy expensive drills for this. It is quite possible to get by with the cheapest concrete drill (for a drill).

Everything is very simple: we clamp the bearing in the locksmith grip, and drill a hole with a drill over the concrete at a speed of 2000-2200 revolutions per minute. It is better to do this on a drilling machine.

over, with the same drill you can drill any other “problematic” metal, whether it be a kitchen knife made in the USSR, or a file.

True, there is one nuance. Concrete drill so that it can drill the metal, it is necessary to rewind. And this will work only with the help of a diamond disk.

How to drill a ball from a bearing

First of all, you need to squeeze the ball in a vice. If you just insert it between the lips, then it will scroll. Therefore, for reliable fixation, the author advises using two nuts.

It took the author to drill a steel ball of such a diameter as in the photo below, the author took about 20 minutes and two sharpening of the drill.

Drill a bearing or a steel ball from it is better on dry. without oil and water.

But it is important not to overheat the drill. For a long time it, of course, will not last, but there is such a drill of a penny, so it is not a pity.

What a cheap drill is capable of concrete, you can watch on the video below. The author of George Kosilov shared his experience.

How to make a knife from a bearing yourself, which will be no worse than a store

Today, I will tell you what a knife from the bearing is capable of and how to do it is a crazy thought that did not allow me to fall asleep this night, since everyone makes knives from files because they are very strong.

And today I will tell you, something new and not ridiculous, namely a knife from the bearing.

And so we start, first we need a bearing ourselves.

Namely the detail that you see to your left.

After which we go to the vise clamp and sawing.

Then we unbend it a little and put it in the oven.

After that, we straighten the part with the help of a hammer, after the part is straightened, we go to the machine make markings using a pre.prepared stencil and begin to cut.

After we all cut out with the help of a corner grinder, it must be polished and thermal processing in the furnace is.700-900 degrees.

Then we must catch a temperature of 200 degrees and lower the knife into the water, and then throw it into the oil.

Then we must clamp the workpiece in a vice and treat the knife with a file.

And after all all the manipulations, we conduct a vacation, if it is not done, then the knife will be very fragile and break like glass if you drop it.

Vacation should be carried out in 150 degrees in the furnace. Go to bed and get out in the morning. In fact, the blade itself is already ready.

We do what kind of hand you want. You can not steam to go to the store to buy thermoplastics (it quickly melts and takes any position). But we will make wood.

We plant the blade on the tree, after which we process and give the shape of the handle.

Well, in principle, everything, the knife is ready. Who is interested in steel, which is used in the manufacture of Bearing bearings ShH15, well, what can I say about it, it holds sharpening for a long time and quite strong.

If everything can be done correctly and the branches are chopped and carved, what do you want in general. The main thing is not to be tasted where.

Such a knife is no worse, what you buy in a store, but rather better, as it is close to heart. HRC will be below 60, approximately 56-57.

DIY universal circle loglogs

They had long wanted to implement a device for rolling a metal profile, reinforcement, stripes and rods in a circle. And now making an unscheduled cleaning of the garage, bearings, a corner of 40 mm and half.membels buried.

The design decided to make a simple, adapted for ordinary vice. First of all, they made a sliding bed from the corner on metal bushings-controls. The rear hub bearing from LADA kalina was welded to her. This will be the basis for the handle of the rolling machine.

In order for the mechanism to cope with wide plastics, it is doubled, draining a little pipe from the old jack. Further pressing the half.memufts into the bearings, they outlined the welding places. Welded and installed bearings in their places. That’s the whole machine!

The pen was still lengthened. On a steel rod, they were convinced that this whole gut is reliable and really works. A lot of useful things can now be wiped but! There is something to add You can always paint in any color! But, seriously, I think to make a groove with a corner grinder along the radius of the hub bearing, somewhere in the middle. Opposite our double. This is for better fixation of the rod, reinforcement and a profile rod. Just the rod will go to the notches on both sides and it is better to fix when rolling.I will also make the ribs of stiffness on the corner, so that everything is more likely. All sizes in the photo. Everything was done in detail in the video. Maybe someone will have thoughts to add this product.