How to disassemble a drill button with a regulator. Repair and malfunction of the shock drill

Repair of the Drill button. DIY drill repair | My tools

One of the main tools used in construction and repair is the electric drill. What is it, even children know, but few of the owners of this tool can repair it. Breakage happens to all tools, and if a drill breaks, then its repair can be done independently with your own hands. The step.by.step description of not only repairs, but also the diagnosis of a drill is described in the material.

Electrodegol. recall the design of the tool

An electric drill is the type of tool that is designed to drill different types of materials, including concrete and reinforced concrete. Only for this you will need to use a tool with shock drilling or shock drill. How the tool works, you can find out if you make it out. Briefly about the design of the electrode of Soviet and foreign production, described below.

It should be noted that the design of modern drills of domestic and foreign production differs from the device of Soviet tools. Only these are insignificant differences that are the absence of a reverse on electric drill, as well as shock drilling. So, structurally, the electric drill consists of two main parts. electrical and mechanical. The mechanical part is based on the following structural elements:

• Reducer. a set of gears, due to which a decrease in speed and an increase in the force of the moment from the shaft of the electric motor are
• Cartridge. an executive body that is designed to consolidate the working nozzles
• Bearings. supporting mechanisms of shafts and axes that provide their rotation
• Shock mechanism. in electrical shock drones, this device is part of the gearbox

The electric component of any network electric drill consists of the following elements:

• A collector.type engine consisting of a stator (motionless part), a rotor or anchor (mobile part) and a collector (copper plates or lamellas, along which the current is supplied to the anchor winding)
• Graphite or coal brushes. a transfer device through which the current is transferred to the rotor winding. Brushes are consumables, and when they spark, this speaks of their wear
• Start button. depending on the model of an electric drill, switches are ordinary and with a built.in speed controller
• The reverse button. there are no such devices on Soviet drills. This is a mechanism for a change in polarity, through which there is a change in the direction of rotation of the tool cartridge. Installed separately or integrated into the start button
• The ferrite ring is an element (filter) through which interference in the network occurs
• Capacitor. a filtering element that does not allow interference to the network
• Network wire. a link between an electric outlet and a tool

Above the photo shows the design of the drill with the main nodes. Sooner or later, there is a need to repair a drill due to the failure of its individual components and mechanisms. For this, it is necessary to initially inspect the tool, identify the cause of the malfunction, and eliminate it. In more detail about what types of drifts of drills are, how to identify and eliminate them, described in the material.

It is interesting! On old Soviet drills, there is no reverse mechanism and electronic revolutions. Instead of an electronic regulator, a mechanical one is used, consisting of gears of different diameters and the number of teeth. This method of adjustment is more reliable, since lowering speed does not affect power. However, this method of speed adjustment is expensive, as it requires the additional use of a pair of gears. With the wear of one pair of gears, you can continue to use the tool. Below are a photo in which the design of the mechanical speed controller of the old Soviet drill is visible.

What will be needed to diagnose breakdowns of an electric drill

Where to start searching for a malfunction of the electrode? Of course, from the first signs, by which it becomes clear where the breakdown is hidden, and which part needs repair. It is easy to identify the mechanical malfunctions of the drill, but with the electric part everything is much more complicated. Here you need appropriate tools for which we can draw conclusions about the malfunction of certain nodes, details and mechanisms of the tool. To identify breakdowns in the electric part of the electric drill, you will need to prepare the following tools:

• Voltmeter or multimeter. Preference should be given to the second option, since it is more effective and multifunctional
• A device for measuring interitral short circuit in anchor

To diagnose the mechanical part, you will need to perform the following manipulations:

• See what specific function the drill does not perform
• Inspect the integrity of the gearbox, having previously disassembled the tool body
• Inspect the serviceability of the bearings, since often these devices fail in the absence of a lubricant
• Identify the service of the mode switch. If the device jams or fails, then the tool will only work in one mode

In a drill, like any other type of power tool, different details and mechanisms come out of order. The whole drill cannot break completely, but in any case, even when the mode switch is faulty, the operator will not be able to use the tool in all its performance. That is why it is necessary to learn how to repair the drill with your own hands. It is not at all difficult to do, even if you have no experience. Therefore, you should not buy a new tool at the first malfunction, since the malfunction is sometimes easy to eliminate even without the need to replace parts. What types of breakdowns arise, how to eliminate them and what to do for this is described in detail in the publication.

Where to look for a breakdown in the electric part of the most common malfunctions and their elimination

Electric malfunctions are the most complex not only to identify, but also to eliminate. This is due to the fact that it is impossible to see the principle of electric current, but you can understand how the drill works. Based on the principle of operation of the electric part, you can draw the appropriate conclusions about possible faults. The principle of operation of the electric part of the drill is as follows:

Do.it.yourself repair button repair

Some spare parts (switch, rotor, stator, brushes, bearings, etc.) Models are bought here, they buy here (only it is better to take through the online store, t.to. In an ordinary store of this chain, you will like the cost above).

Replacing brushes. The most common type of breakdown is the wear of the engine brushes, the replacement of which can be made independently at home. Sometimes, the brushes can be replaced without disassembling the drill housing. In some models, it is enough to unscrew the plugs from the installation windows and install new brushes. Other models have a disassembly of the case for replacement, in which case it is necessary to carefully remove the brush holders and extract worn brushes from them.

Brushes are sold in all normal power tool stores, and often an additional pair of brushes is attached to the new electric drill.

Do not wait until the brushes are worn to the minimum size. This is fraught with the fact that between the brush and collector plates increases the gap. As a result, increased sparking occurs, the collector plates will be greatly heated and can move away from the base of the collector, which will lead to the need to replace the anchor.

You can determine the need to replace the brushes by increased sparking, which is visible in the ventilation slots of the body. The second method of determination, this is a random twisting of the drill during operation.

Network cord. The cord is checked by an ohmmeter, one probe is connected to the contact of the network fork, the other to the cord. Lack of resistance indicates a cliff. In this case, the repair of the drill is reduced to the replacement of the network wire.

Diagnosis of the electric motor. In second place, according to the number of breakdowns of the drill, you can put a malfunction of the engine elements and most often anchor. The failure of the anchor or stator occurs for two reasons. improper operation and low.quality motor wire. World.famous manufacturers use an expensive motor wire with double insulation with heat.resistant varnish, which at times increases the reliability of engine. Accordingly, in cheap models, the quality of isolation of the coil wire leaves much to be desired. Incorrect operation is reduced to frequent overloads of the drill or prolonged operation, without interruptions for cooling the engine. Repairing a drill with your own hands by rewinding of anchor or stator, in this case, without special devices, it is impossible. Only replacing the element completely (exclusively experienced repairmen will be able to rewind the anchor or stator with their own hands).

To replace the rotor or stator, it is necessary to disassemble the case, disconnect the wires, brushes, remove the drive gear if necessary, and remove the engine entirely with the supporting bearings. Replace the faulty element and install the engine in place.

It is possible to determine the anchor malfunction by a characteristic smell, an increase in sparking, while the sparks have a circular motion in the direction of the anchor movement. Pronounced burnt windings can be seen during visual inspection. But if the engine power has fallen, but there are no above signs, then you should resort to the help of measuring devices. ohmmeter and megammeter.

Windings (stator and anchor) are subject to only three damage. Interpreter electric breakdown, breakdown on the housing (magnetic circuit) and breakage of the winding. The breakdown on the case is determined quite simply, it is enough to touch the meter with a megammeter to any output of the winding and the magnetic circuit. The resistance of more than 500m indicates the lack of breakdown. It should be borne in mind that the measurements should be carried out with a megammeter, which has a measuring voltage of at least 100 volts. When making measurements with a simple multimeter, it is impossible to determine exactly that there is definitely no breakdown, but you can determine that there is definitely a breakdown.

It is quite difficult to determine the inter.itic breakdown of the anchor, unless, of course, it is visually visible. To do this, you can use a special transformer, which has only the primary winding and a groove rupture in the form of a gutter to install an anchor in it. At the same time, the anchor with its core becomes a secondary winding. Turning the anchor, so that the windings would be in turn in turn, we apply a thin metal plate to the anchor of the anchor. If the winding is short.closed, then the plate begins to rattles strongly, while the winding heats up significantly.

Repair of the speed adjustment button for drill

I wanted to buy a new speed button for a drill, but having opened it, I realized that the breakdown is insignificant.

Connection of the drill button

See the continuation. what is not shown on this connection.

Often, an interval circuit is detected in visible sections of the wire or shirt of the anchor: the turns can be bent, crumpled (t.e. pressed to each other), or there may be any conductive particles between them. If so, then it is necessary to eliminate these circuits, by correcting the bruises of Shinka or extracting foreign bodies, respectively. Also, a short circuit can be found between neighboring collector plates.

You can determine the anchor winding break if you connect a milliammeter to the adjacent anchor plates and gradually turn the anchor. A certain same current will occur in entire windings, the break.out will show or increase the current or its complete absence.

The breakdown of the stator windings is determined by the connection of the ohmmeter to the disconnected ends of the windings, the absence of resistance indicates a complete break.

Revolutions and reverse regulator. The presence of the voltage at the input terminals of the inclusion button and the absence on the weekend indicates the malfunctions of the contacts or components of the revolution regulator circuit. You can disassemble the button carefully picked up the latches of the protective casing and pulling it off the button case. Visual inspection of the terminals will judge their performance. Blackened terminals are cleaned of soot with alcohol or fine sandpaper. Then the button is assembled again and checked for the presence of contact, if nothing has changed, then the button with the regulator should be replaced. The speed controller is made on the substrate and completely flooded with the insulating compound, so it is not subject to repair. Another characteristic malfunction of the button is the erasing of the working layer under the slider of the rheostat. The easiest way out. Replacing the button as a whole.

how to disassemble and identify the cause. Practical advice and recommendations

Drill design

In order to repair the drill, you need to know its design features well. It is worth noting that the design of the drill is quite simple. At the same time, various models have approximately the same layout, differing only in some separate details and the quality of manufacture.

The principle of operation of these devices is also quite universal, so you can quickly find a problem and eliminate it without leaving home.

In any electric drill there is a case where there is a mechanical and electronic part of the device and a cartridge located on the main shaft of the drill. A drill, which is a working tool is attached into the cartridge.

• a two.phase electric motor consisting of a rotor and stator;
• the start button, which is the switch;
• contact brushes located on the brush holder;
• reverse device;

The mechanical component of the device consists of a system of bearings and gearboxes. Due to the gearbox, the transmission of the rotation of the electric motor to the shaft with a reduced speed is ensured. If we are dealing with a shock drill or a pedorator, then here the gearbox provides both rotational and shock movement of the drill. To do this, in addition to the gears, the gearboxes include ramers, pistons and a fighting.

Search and elimination algorithm

Drill repair is carried out on the principle of “from simple to complex”. Do not immediately disassemble the tool to the screw, and evaluate the condition of all nodes at the same time.

• The drill does not turn on. We start with a power cord (at least, before that we should check the voltage in the outlet and extension cord). Having dismantled the case, we find the contacts of the cable, and “nickname” them using a multimeter.

Important! Do not check the supply wire at the applied voltage! With a break in live cores, you can get a shock, or organize a short circuit.

We connect to the network plug connector and the opposite terminal of the cord. Then we bend the cable several times along the entire length. Lossed contact or its complete absence indicates the presence of a cliff inside the isolation. If the fracture of the live core is close to the edge, the cable is cut and connected again. It just will be a little shorter. If the gap is in the middle of the length, it is better to replace the wire. Flaw will be unsafe.

• The cord is serviceable. check the switch. Connect the multimeter to the conclusions, and press the key. A large current passes through the contacts, sparking occurs (especially when dust enters the case). Contacts can banally oxidize. Gently disassemble the circuit breaker, and clean the contact groups with fine sandpaper.

With a breakdown of metal parts, it is better to purchase a new block.

• If an additional contact group is present in the circuit between the circuit breaker and the electric motor (for example, the reverse switch or speed controller), we also diagnose this node.
• Next, check the connecting wires from the switch to the engine brushes. If they are in order, we diagnose the brush node.

The springs must confidently press the brushes against the anchor lamella, the coal elements themselves are checked for the degree of wear. If necessary, we change: spare parts are in the delivery kit, or bought in specialized stores. Contact lamps of anchors can be oxidized or clogged. They can be carefully cleaned with fine sandpaper.

• complex breakdown. failure of the anchor or stator windings. Using the multimeter, a short circuit is checked between the assembly body and the contacts of the windings. Then the resistance is measured. The value should be the same on each winding, the scatter of readings is not more than 5%. Faulty windings must be rewound.

The main problems

Despite the quality assembly and reliable components, any drill can break. The most common are such problems:

• breakdown of the electric motor, in particular the failure of the anchor or stator;
• wear or combustion of brushes;
• problems with supporting bearings;
• malfunction of the button that regulates the turnover;

As a rule, the repair of the drill with your own hands does not provide for the repair of the broken part. Without the availability of special equipment, this is impossible. Often it is only necessary to detect a problem and replace the broken part with a new.

Malfunctions in the electric part

Most often, the malfunction is that for some reason the motor does not turn on. In particular, if the cartridge can easily be crank up, and the motor does not work, then we are dealing with problems in the electric part. This is also evidenced by problems with speed adjustment or rotation reverse.

If failures in the operation of the device are temporary, then this also indirectly indicates problems with the electrical component. Most often, contact brushes fail in this part. For example, if they have worn out by 40%, then this already leads to problems in the work. With a more pronounced wear, the drill does not turn on at all.

To determine the malfunction in the electric part, you need to determine the tester of the cord with the tester, and then check the start button and the start.up capacitor. Next, examine the contact buttons and integrity of the electric motor winding.

Connection cord

When food disappears, you only need to change the position of the product. the reason lies in the cable, most likely one of the wires has broken off. It is necessary to turn off the drill from the network and check using the multimeter cable. You can use the simplest option. a light bulb and a battery in one chain.

FA2 6 1Bek connection diagram without reverse

Sooner or later, many users of the electric drill can begin to interest the question of how to connect the drill button to the tool wiring. Such a question appears usually in case of malfunctions in the old button, which is why you need to connect a new. In this article I will tell you how to connect it. what is where it sticks.

I will not describe here how to disassemble the housing electrode to get to the insides, since I assume that since you were asked the question of replacement, then the disassembly of the case will not be difficult for you. I think that one who does not know how to make out the case will not even think about the independent replacement of something in the tool.

So, first you should purchase a new button. It should coincide with the old in size and powerful characteristics, therefore, going for the purchase, take it with you for the sample and write down the exact model of your tool.

How to disconnect the old button?

To disconnect it, you will need a thin slot (straight) screwdriver and pin. Unscrew the existing bolts that clamp the cable coming from the network fork.

The remaining wires are fixed with a spring clamp. To disconnect them, you need to go into the recess where the terminal is located, to pass the pin of the pins. Thanks to this action, the terminal is raised and the wire is removed along with the pin.

When disconnecting, I advise you to leave the wires that go from the capacitor, so as not to forget what contacts it is attached to. Since he, except for the button terminals, is not attached anywhere else, they can be removed together and carried in this form to the store to buy a new copy. After the purchase, first stick the capacitor to a new place, after which you can not think about it.

Scheme for connecting a drill button with a revolution regulator and a reverse

Actually visual connection diagram is shown in the below image.

• The figure has the most common type of spare part. The mounting of electrical wires from the network fork is carried out to the terminals that have a bolt mount. The rest are stuck into self.loading contacts. If your button is not like that, then it is better to make notes on the old copy, which is mounted where. Also, a scheme can be drawn on the case itself, according to which you can also navigate.
• If you connected the capacitor as it was written above, then after connecting the wires from the fork, only two contacts will remain on your lower part, where you need to stick two cables from the stator. Usually they have the same position on the stature as in the figure. Their length should be greater than the other two, so that they can reach their clamps. There is no difference which wire in which of the two contacts to stick.
• The remaining two electric wires from the stator, as well as the cables from the brushes are connected to the clamps of the reverse. In this case, the connection is carried out diagonally: the wires from the stator stick on different sides into diagonally located contacts; and from brushes also. At the same time, the wires will be stuck on where the wires will be stuck in which direction the cartridge will rotate at a certain position of the reverse trigger. The main thing is to connect diagonally.

This is the connection scheme. I hope that you will be able to connect everything correctly and the drill will work as it should.

Tehnodoka.Ru Technical Documentation The Site was created to provide assistance in search of documentation for various household and industrial devices

• Antennas, ant.amplifiers
• Auto, Moto
• Batteries
• Power supply, charger, network stabilizers
• Measuring devices
• Computer iron, laptops, tablets, etc.D.
• Air conditioners, Holler.installations
• microwaves
• Monitors
• Muses.centers, tape recorders, car radio, CD, DVD player
• Transmitters, radio stations
• Receivers, radio
• Welders
• Satellite equipment
• Network stabilizers
• Washing machines
• TVs
• Phones
• Low frequency amplifiers, acoustics
• Power tool
• Other devices that are not included in the above sections

Replacing the button in electric

Quite often, the electric drill stops working due to the breakdown of its button (it does not turn on, the number of revolutions is not adjusted), we disassemble the drill try to do something, and when we understand that the case is in the button, many wires are already torn from it and which is unknown where it was unknown? You buy a new button, and how to connect it?To do this, you will need a diagram of its connection:

Connection button where the capacitor has three outlets

In order for the engine to start working in the opposite direction, you need to change the wires to the brushes (in the button with a reverse, this is done using the switch lever).

I want to draw your attention when buying a button, it should match not only the size, but also the power of your drill. Let’s calculate: we have a drill with a power of 650W, p = ui, i = 650/220 = 2.95A, it turns out we need a button on u =

220V, I = at least 2.95A, so the BUE-3 button is suitable for us

# Visiting advertisements. you express gratitude to the creators of the site

Necessary tools and materials

Drill repair can be carried out on its own, most importantly, to know the causes of breakdowns and methods of their “treatment”. Today we will talk about how the Drill button connection scheme looks like, we will not get around the attention of other malfunctions, so you will be the happy owner of a working tool.

Diagnosis of breakdowns

This simple.looking device during use gives signals to the user that he will soon need repairs, but not everyone understands them. If the drill begins to work with temporary interruptions or the button requires a stronger press than before, then these are the first symptoms of incorrect work of this part.

When you use the battery drill, the first thing you should measure with the battery voltage. if less nominal, then it must be charged.

In this case, we are especially interested in the condition and functional abilities of the buttons of turning on/off the product. Checking the serviceability of its work is quite simple: it is necessary to unscrew the fasteners of the main body, remove the top cover and check the voltage of the wires going to the device, turning on the power cord in the outlet. When the device shows the voltage, and when pressed on the button, the product does not work, this suggests that it is broken or the contacts are burned inside the device.

Drill button device

Well, at the end of this article, I would like to touch on the question that many of you to encounter in the process of dismantling the old drill button. In order to carry out high.quality dismantling the buttons, you will need minimal knowledge in the device of modern buttons starting into the work of a drill. The video presented above shows how the button works when pressing it.If the reverse lever is worth the twisting of bolts, nuts and so on, then both terminals are closed.If you turn on the reverse in the opposite direction, then only one lower terminal is included in the network, the second does not work. As a rule, in all modern buttons, the drill clamping devices for wires are designed from durable steel and are not very convenient for dismantling.

The most common problems with the electrical component are cases when the drill sparkles on brushes due to their significant grinding or wear. The device with strongly worn brushes will not turn on at all. A sign of problems with the engine is the absence of signs of its inclusion (sound, vibration, etc.). At a drill with speed adjustment, reverse and speed control can stop functioning.

Mechanical malfunctions. breakdown of the bearing or gearbox, failure of the shaft. They are manifested by buzzing, periodic stops of the device, slowed down. Sometimes problems arise with the cartridge: difficulties in disconnecting the drill, twisting the cartridge relative to the shaft.

A little theory.

In the design of the button lies the principle of adjusting the power by cutting some part of the sinusoid of alternating voltage voltage, supplied to the drill electric motor. The deeper the button sinks, the more the sinusoid graph looks fully looks like. And vice versa, with a minimum click on the button, the engine receives the power most fragmented. In the simplified version, the circuit of the electrodern button looks as follows.

The power regulatory element is the thyristor VS1, tearing the load power circuit. The dinistor VD1 is sequentially included in the circuit of the control electrode of the thyristor, which has the ability to pass the current only with a certain range of potential difference between its electrodes. The capacitor C1, loaded through the variable resistor R1, will provide this potential difference the faster, the more the engine engine is the engine and, therefore, the more long the thyristor will open, and the greater power will be led to the load in this half.period of the voltage.

The dependence of the voltage on the load on time. BUT. full power (no regulation, inclusion without a regulator). B. Power about 25%. AT. Power less than 25%. One half.period (lower on schedule) sinusoids, when the current passes through the thyristor, is completely cut off. So that this does not happen, the thyristor needs to turn on the diode in a parallel to the thyristor.

Search and elimination of faults.

The opening of the EN61058 button is not difficult, it is necessary to push the plastic latches with the tip of the knife and get the contact group from the inside with the electronic board. Next, it is necessary to separate the fee, weave it from the contact group. Instead of a variable resistor, the button applies a more reliable option. a step resistor, which is a multi.position switch, where the resistance of each position corresponds to its permanent resistor. In addition to many SMD resistors, the board contains a capacitor, diode and tuning resistor. Installation of the Tyn612 thyristor and DB3 dinistor is performed in a hinged way.

The most likely reason for the fault of the button, when it does not control the speed (power) of the drill. The fault of the thyristor. If there is no way to check the thyristor on a specialized tester, then the thyristor just needs to be replaced with obviously working. The same applies to the dinistor. Everything else: resistors, diode and capacitor. can be checked directly on the board with a conventional multimeter (after falling out the thyristor). If the multimeter does not have the function of measuring the capacity, then check the capacitor is not particularly necessary, since the probability of its failure is extremely small.

The drill button is repaired by replacing the failed Tyn612 thyristor with a similar BT151. The tiristor is mounted with a screw and a nut using thermal paste. So that the nut enters the case, it had to be cut a little.

Electric Drill: Scheme of the apparatus

Usually the more powerful the engine, the larger it is and in it you can use drilling larger diameter. Gradually, these models leave the market, since most people need a tool that is also suitable for drilling wall materials: concrete, brick, plaster, etc.D. For this, it is necessary that the electrodegro has the function of the penetration.

Of course, it is better to use the peorator for these purposes, but most citizens are a significant amount of work where this tool does not puzzle itself. As a rule, in the house there is only the need to drill holes in the wall to hang a picture, cabinet or shelf. A small drill with a shock function under a drill with a maximum diameter of 13 mm is quite suitable for these purposes. For those who do not understand, the function of the peorator or “shock” drilling is a special mode.

In the process of this regime, the drill not only rotates, but also makes arrival movements along the axis of the drill. As a result, the drill not only drills, but also hits like a hammer to the drilling point. Due to such a mechanism, the drilling of materials as concrete or brick occurs significantly faster. By the way, drill with a winning tip is used to drill these materials.

Well, we figured out the function of shock drilling and now we will move on to the design of the drill cartridge. Depending on the model, the electric drill can be equipped with one of two types of cartridges (that part of the drill into which the drill is clamped). The first type of cartridge is classic with the triangular sectors of the clamp and the mechanism of forced clamp. The drill in the cartridge is fixed by rotating the part of the cartridge using a special key on which there is a gear element. In everyday life, when the volume of work is not very large and it is often required to change the type or size of the drill is not very convenient.

It is also worth noting that gradually the toothed key and the cloves on the cartridge are gradually produced and difficulties arise when fixing the drill. For household purposes, we would recommend an electric drill with the so.called fast.packed cartridge. These types of cartridges clamp the drill when rotating them simply with the hand relative to the axis of the drill. They are more convenient with a frequent change of drill, since unscrewing and twisting is required literally a few seconds. Nevertheless, these cartridges have a slightly less clamp, but for household purposes this is not critical. If you buy a powerful drill, it will better stop on a model with a key cartridge.

Additional functions of the drill

When choosing a drill, additional functions should also be taken into account, which are very useful when drilling. First, this is the presence of a constant drilling button. It with one click allows you to “jam” the power mechanism and for constant drilling there is no need to constantly put pressure on the Start button. True, based on practice, usually this function is not very used for small volumes of work.

When the drilling time is quite small, the use of the constant drilling button is absolute. Another thing is a reverse function. Using this function, you can switch the direction of rotation of the drill to the opposite. If you often work with metal with a thickness of more than 2 mm, then you can not do without this function. The fact is that when you almost drilled the metal, there is a sharp break in the remaining thickness of the metal and the drill often stucks in the burrs. In order to pull out the drill, it is necessary to start rotating the drill in the opposite direction from the direction of rotation of the drill. The reverse function allows this to do this in a couple of seconds and without changing the position of the tool and hands.

Characteristics of the drill electric motor

The characteristics of the engine of the electrodel also deserves attention. The fact is that the stronger the material that needs to be drilled, the more powerful the engine is needed. And if the size is large, then the weak motor may not cope with work. The smallest drills have a capacity of 250 watts, and powerful professional reach up to 1,500 watts and above. Also, the power of the drill affects the drilling speed itself. For household purposes, an electric drill of 500. 800 watts is quite suitable.

Another characteristic of the drill electric motor is the maximum engine speed. As a rule, this indicator in drones is almost the same and is 2600. 3000 revolutions per minute. But there is one but. Many models have a special regulator that allows you to change the speed of rotation. This is very convenient, since the metal, for example, must be drilled at low speed, and for wood, the greater the speed the better. Some models also have a regulation function built into the launch button. The stronger you press on it, the greater the speed. This allows you to regulate the speed of rotation directly during the drilling process.

The diameter of the used drills

This indicator is not very important when choosing a drill if you choose a drill for homework. Most models for household work are performed under the maximum drill diameter of 13 mm. This is quite enough for all types of work at home. However, if you plan to use a tool for constant work in construction, especially in the drilling of logs and a beam with thick drills, it is most likely to take a drill under a larger diameter of drills.

Additional devices

When choosing an electric drill, you can also pay attention to additional accessories, the presence of which is not mandatory and are not critical for work. However, if they are, work can become much more convenient and comfortable.

Additional handle. This device allows you to hold the drill with both hands, which allows you to better fix the drill in the right position. This also reduces the likelihood that the drill will break if the tool is shifted to the side.

Drilling depth limiter. Very useful devices in cases of drilling deaf holes, for example, under the dowel in the wall. The limiter allows you to accurately drill several holes in the depth without the implementation of additional depth measurement with other tools.

Case. This type of device allows you to protect the tool from dust and excess moisture, moreover, it is very convenient to endure the drill in it, if you do not work at home, but in another place.

We hope the stated information helped you decide on the type and type of tool that should be purchased, but we recommend not limited to this information and read about the technical characteristics of individual models, for their more detailed comparison and final choice.

Drill revolutionary speed regulator does not work? Repair!

Hi all! I recently ran into a refusal to operate a drill revolution regulator

Often, an interval circuit is detected in visible sections of the wire or shirt of the anchor: the turns can be bent, crumpled (t.e. pressed to each other), or there may be any conductive particles between them. Drill electric circuit with a revolution regulator. If so, then it is necessary to eliminate these circuits, by correcting the bruises of Shinka or extracting foreign bodies, respectively. Also, a short circuit can be found between neighboring collector plates.

You can determine the anchor winding break if you connect a milliammeter to the adjacent anchor plates and gradually turn the anchor. A certain same current will occur in entire windings, the break.out will show or increase the current or its complete absence.

The breakdown of the stator windings is determined by the connection of the ohmmeter to the disconnected ends of the windings, the absence of resistance indicates a complete break.

The presence of the voltage at the input terminals of the inclusion button and the absence on the weekend indicates the malfunctions of the contacts or components of the revolution regulator circuit. You can disassemble the button carefully picked up the latches of the protective casing and pulling it off the button case. Electric circuit of a drill with a revolutionary control regulator and. Visual inspection of the terminals will judge their performance. Blackened terminals are cleaned of soot with alcohol or fine sandpaper. Then the button is assembled again and checked for the presence of contact, if nothing has changed, then the button Cregulator must be replaced. The speed controller is made on the substrate and completely flooded with the insulating compound, so it is not subject to repair. Another characteristic malfunction of the button is the erasing of the working layer under the slider of the rheostat. The easiest way out. Replacing the button as a whole.

Do.it.yourself repair button is possible only if there are certain skills. It is important to understand that after opening the body, many parts of switching will simply fall out of the corps. It is possible to prevent this only by a smooth lift of the cover initially and desirable sketching of the location of contacts and springs.

The reversal device (if located not in the button case) has its own cracking contacts, so it is also subject to the disappearance of contact. The disassembly and cleaning mechanism is the same as the buttons.

When buying a new revolution regulator

, It should be made sure that it is designed for the power of the drill, so with a drill power of 750W, the regulator should be designed for a current of more than 3.4A (750W/220V = 3.4A). Corner grinder with a revolution regulator has more. And by the way, the regulator at the drill in the photo is non.native, and so that it climbed into the case, the lower part of the trigger was cut off.

Connection of the button

Despite the complexity of the process to replace the button, you can do it with your own hands. At the same time, it is important to observe certain rules. For example, it must be remembered that a sloppy opening of the case often entails the loss of some parts. If this cannot be avoided, the assembly of the device is quite difficult.

To open the drill, you must very smoothly raise the lid, and then mark the location points of various elements of the device on paper. The button is repaired as follows:

• First you need to pick up the casing locks and tighten them.
• Each terminal on which there is a soil or rust should be cleared. For this purpose, sandpaper or alcohol is used.
• After that, it is necessary to re.assemble the tool so that all the elements of the device remain in its place. Then you need to check the operability of the drill.
• Often the cause of the breakdown is the abrasion of the working surface under the rheostat. It is better not to deal with them. it’s easier to purchase a new. This detail is highly difficult.

Many owners of electric drifts with reverse are interested in where you can find such a scheme. First of all, it should be looked for in the instructions for the tool. However, if there are no such data, you have to ask a professional or download the manual on the Internet. Instructions for many drifts are on the manufacturer’s website.

Many masters by the nature of their activities, and simply when performing home repairs, have to use all kinds of power tools. And, probably, everyone had to face the fact that the tool ceases to turn on regularly, or ceases to turn on altogether at all.

In most cases, the reason may be a banal wire break, or failure of the circuit breaker. And even with a wire break, a person often begins to guess where he could fall off, not to mention the complete replacement of the control button. Therefore, in this article we want to share with you a connection diagram, and as an example we will consider the electric drill.

Standard Connection of the button (it is most common in a power tool without a reverse.)

The face value of C1 in your case may vary slightly. If you have not guessed with the direction of rotation of the drill shaft, change the wires that go to the motor brushes.

The next connection option is similar to the previous one, the difference is to connect a three.overal tank C1 (see the next two drawings).

And another widespread connection option, as you already understood, is a button with the switch of the rotation of the rampart (with a reverse):

Well, finally, we want to focus your attention on the choice of the button, it should correspond not only to the overall dimensions (naturally, the button of another format is to stick in the place of the failed, it is almost impossible because of the design features of the seat), but also pay attention to the current that this button is that this button is can switch. So that you understand the example of it:

Suppose your drill has a power of 650 watts, a voltage of a household network 220 volts, as is known to the power is equal to the product of current and voltage, hence the current is 650/220, we get 2.95 amperes. Accordingly, the button needs to be chosen so that it can withstand 3 load amers, for example, type BUE-3.

How to disconnect the old button?

To disconnect it, you will need a thin slot (straight) screwdriver and pin. Unscrew the existing bolts that clamp the cable coming from the network fork.

The remaining wires are fixed with a spring clamp. To disconnect them, you need to go into the recess where the terminal is located, to pass the pin of the pins. Thanks to this action, the terminal is raised and the wire is removed along with the pin.

When disconnecting, I advise you to leave the wires that go from the capacitor, so as not to forget what contacts it is attached to. Since he, except for the button terminals, is not attached anywhere else, they can be removed together and carried in this form to the store to buy a new copy. After the purchase, first stick the capacitor to a new place, after which you can not think about it.

How to determine the performance of the button?

To do this, you need a regular multimeter (tester) and screwdriver.

The diagnostic process itself is as follows (using the example of a widespread model of the DWT SBM-500 drilling rig):

• Remove the lid of the drill housing by unscrewing several screws;
• Loosen two screws on the clamp of the power cord;
• Remove the node of the starter buttons, disconnect the rear speed switch (usually it is attached on the clamps that need to be bent only a little). The reversal itself is sold separately and can also be replaced if necessary;
• Take the multimeter, set the switch to the sound signal position. Close the tester contacts to make sure that it works (the device must issue a sound signal);
• Test a button. To do this, establish one tester contact to position 2 (it must come into contact with the wire), and set the second contact on a screw that presses the cable 220 in. After pressing the button, the device should be squealed. If this is not the case, the button does not work.

How to replace the button?

You will need a flat screwdriver and a regular pin or thin awl.

• The process of replacing the button itself occurs in the following sequence (for the example of the DWT SBM-500 drill):
• Unscrew the two screws of fastening the power cord, remove it;
• Insert the awl into the hole in the wire coming from the stator, remove the wire and awl.
• The same manipulation should be done to remove the second wire. If you are worried that when you connect a new button you mix the wires, we recommend drawing a connection button connection diagram;
• Take a new button and connect the power cable wires to it according to the drawn circuit. Then you need to connect the drill itself to the button block. The wires from the stator are simply inserted into the holes to the stop;
• Connect the reverse button to the block;
• We install the unit at the site of the landing in the drill housing, carefully lay out the wires, tighten the power cable with two screws;
• Close the lid of the drill, conduct a test.

Connecting the drill button with a speed control regulator

In many modern drift models, in addition to reverse, the button is built.in engine speed regulator. This function is very useful, since it allows you to establish different operating modes when performing various operations.

As for the replacement, the whole process is no different from the described above. You just need to buy a new button to a drill with a speed control and replace the old according to the attached instructions.

By the way, if desired, you can always put a button with a speed control on a regular drill. just select a device of the desired shape and size and corresponding to the power of the tool.

Diagnosis of breakdowns

This simple.looking device during use gives signals to the user that he will soon need repairs, but not everyone understands them. If the drill begins to work with temporary interruptions or the button requires a stronger press than before, then these are the first symptoms of incorrect work of this part.

When you use the battery drill, the first thing you should measure with the battery voltage. if less nominal, then it must be charged.

In this case, we are especially interested in the condition and functional abilities of the buttons of turning on/off the product. Checking the serviceability of its work is quite simple: it is necessary to unscrew the fasteners of the main body, remove the top cover and check the voltage of the wires going to the device, turning on the power cord in the outlet. When the device shows the voltage, and when pressed on the button, the product does not work, this suggests that it is broken or the contacts are burned inside the device.

Normal vkl/off button

Repair or replacement of the drill button is considered a simple process, but it is necessary to have certain skills. with a careless opening of the side wall, many parts can fly in different directions or fall out of the case.

As mentioned above, the button may not function due to oxidation or burning contacts. To fix this, it is necessary to make it out, observing the following order.

• Carefully pick up the latches of the protective casing and open it.
• Remove the soot on the contacts with alcohol, or clean them with sandpaper.
• Then assemble and check.

If everything works fine, then the reason was in contacts, otherwise the button is replaced.

You should know that a special layer is often erased, which during the manufacture is applied to the slider of the rheostat. in this case, the button should also be replaced.

Quite often, the Drill button connection diagram is used to check the functional abilities of the entire design: only if it is available can you perform partial repair or carry out the correct connection of the button in case of replacement. The scheme should go along with the instructions for the operation of the product, if for some reason it is not there, then you can look on the Internet.

Electric motor verification: causes of breakdowns and repair

There are several reasons for the breakdowns of an armature or stator drill. First of all, it is illiterate operation of the device. For example, many users simply overload the tool, working without a break. This leads to the fact that the drill engine does not have time to “relax”. The second reason lies in a bad motor wire, which are often found in cheap models. That is why the breakdowns of cheap tools are much more common. Repair in this case must be carried out using a specialized tool. And it will be better if you entrust this work to professional specialists.

However, if it was decided to carry out repairs on your own, you will definitely have a question. how to do everything right? As you already understood, the electric drill “suffers” with breakdowns of the anchor and stator, and this can be checked by several signs, for example, when when working, the tool suddenly sparkles. If there are no “bright” signs, you can use an ohmmeter.

• First, carefully disassemble the device body;
• Remove the wires and all internal details;
• After clarifying the reasons for the breakdown, we change the spare part to a new one, the case is closed again.

How to replace brushes: work in a couple of minutes

But the drill may not work due to banal malfunctions-for example, due to brushes inside the engine. So, you can’t do without repairing brushes here, while this work is quite simple. you do not even need to have special knowledge and tools. To do this, analyze the device, remove the brush holders from it and change the details that are broken. By the way, there are models whose body can not be disassembled. you just need to remove special plugs through the installation window, after which we change the brushes.

You can purchase these details in any construction store, there are also some models that are sold together with a set of additional brushes. It is important that you do not wait for the complete wear of the brushes. check them from time to time. And all due to the fact that the risk of the formation of a gap between the bristles and the collector arises. As a result, this detail will begin to overheat and disappears over time. it means that you will have to change the whole anchor, which will be much more expensive and more complicated, and not the fact that you can independently solve this issue.

As you can see, there are a variety of breakdowns, many of which will be subject to you, others will be feasible only to specialists in service centers. And to reduce the risk of such breakdowns, you need to take care of your tool, clean it after work, check the condition of parts and brushes in order to replace them with new. However, if you see that you yourself will not be able to cope. bring the device to the workshop.