How To Disassemble A Kettle Bosch

How to disassemble the body of an electric kettle with a closed heating element

Regardless of the model, the device of electric kettles is almost the same, so disassembly always begins with removing the lid. To remove it, you need to find two self-tapping screws, they can be located in different ways:

  • In older models, the screws are at the top. That is, immediately after lifting the lid, access will be open to them;
  • In modern appliances, the top of the cover must be removed first. It is secured by two grooves that go into the base of the handle. You just need to move them a little. Then access to self-tapping screws will open, which need to be unscrewed.

On some models, the top cover can be removed together with the handle. Therefore, before proceeding with its removal, you need to study the structures and do not make efforts when removing.

Removing the teapot lid

Then we move on to the bottom of the case. The electric kettle must be turned over and three self-tapping screws must be found, in some models there may be more of them, but they are in plain sight, so this should not be difficult.

However, it will take a little patience and effort to detach the bottom, as there are teeth around the perimeter that go into the hole in the case. They need to be carefully snapped off. This must be done in stages so as not to break them or damage the case. Most often, they snap off quickly with a slight pressure of the screwdriver. But if the device has been in use for a long time, the procedure may take a little longer, since the case may simply stick to the base.

After removing the base, a heating element will appear in front of you, if it is a disc kettle, in which there is no direct contact between the heating element and water. If the heating element is most likely the cause of the breakdown, then you can ring it already at this stage of disassembly. This is done with a special device. With it, you can find out if there is a break in the coil inside the heating tube, or if something has happened to the contacts. If during the test the tester shows a value equal to infinity, then the heating element needs to be replaced. If the value is between 50 and 200 ohms, the heating element is OK.

We check the heating element for performance

We check the thermostat or thermostat. To do this, unscrew the screw, which is located at the bottom of the handle. Then carefully remove it. Some modern models of electric kettles may have a single handle and top cover design, so you need to carefully do all the manipulations.

Removing the handle of the electric kettle

Then we find a self-tapping screw inside the handle. It is located directly below the kettle on or off button. It must be unscrewed and then removed. This requires a Phillips screwdriver. After removing it, you need to ring the thermostat at all connections. To disassemble the thermostat itself, you will need to remove the switch cover, they can be removed easily. Then we check this element. If there is such an element, it is better to replace it. If not, let’s analyze it further. The cover is removed by pressing and pulling it forward. Then you can clear all contacts.

How to properly disassemble an electric kettle?

An electric kettle is indispensable in any kitchen, be it home or office, catering. He is the leader in sales, is produced in large quantities, has a wide range of models. But, like any other technique, an electric kettle may fail after a while. There may be several reasons for this, since this device operates on a fairly simple principle. It is also easy to repair yourself. The only drawback is the disassembly of the device itself, because in order to diagnose or replace elementary components, it is necessary to completely disassemble the kettle. And the most difficult stage is the initial stage, so many who start self-repair are interested in the question of how to disassemble the teapot lid and what are the next steps.

How to disassemble and repair an electric kettle

But before proceeding with the repair, you need to understand the principle of operation of the device and whether the models of electric kettles differ among themselves and how?

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We disassemble the old model electric kettle

The disassembly stages are slightly different:

  • Self-tapping screws are unscrewed, which are located at the bottom of the device;
  • The lower side of the device is removed;
  • Then access to the heating element, switch and thermostat opens.

In older models, in order to get to the main units of the device, you do not need to untwist the entire structure, just unscrew a few screws. However, if the power and toggle button is at the top of the handle, then complete disassembly is inevitable.

We disassemble the old-style electric kettle

To check the performance of the heating element in kettles, where the heating element is open, it is enough to remove one lid, and then it is released.

However, the cause of the breakdown may not always be directly related to the device itself. Its stand may fail. Therefore, it is important to know how to disassemble the kettle stand in order to check its performance.

Principle of operation

An electric kettle, regardless of model and class, works according to the same principle. In its lower part there is a heating element, it can be open or closed. It connects to a thermostat, which consists of a plate. When current is applied, the heating element begins to heat up, thereby heating the water in the tank. When the liquid boils, steam is formed, which rises up the device and enters a special channel where the thermostat is located, which controls the operation of the device and is responsible for shutting down after boiling water. But despite all the simplicity of work, many do not know how to properly disassemble an electric kettle and do it correctly. Because different device models have differently located latches that snap off the handle of the device.

Slow heating and shutdown until boiling

Both of these malfunctions can be caused by excessive scale formation on the heating element. In the first case, slow heating is due to a large layer of deposits, which prevents the liquid from quickly heating up. To fix this problem, you just need to descale the kettle. There are many ways to do this using special means and folk methods. This procedure is mandatory, otherwise the heating element may burn out.

As for the second type of malfunction of turning off the device before boiling, and in this case, the heating element is also the reason, on which there is a large amount of scale. Each heating element, regardless of the model, has a special fuse, which is triggered immediately after the heating element begins to overheat. In the event of a breakdown of this type, it is also enough to descale the electric kettle.

Scale on the heating element: replacement

The kettle does not turn off

If, after boiling water, the device does not turn off and continues to heat the liquid, this can lead to the combustion of the heating element. There are several reasons for this malfunction. The shutdown occurs at the moment when the vapor rises due to boiling and reaches the channel through which it passes to the thermostat. Shutdown may not occur due to a broken cover, clogging of the channel with scale, or a breakdown of the thermostat itself. But if the first reasons can be dealt with using special means or folk methods to remove plaque, to repair the thermostat, you need to remove the bottom cover of the case and disassemble the device completely in order to replace it.

How to disassemble a Bosch electric kettle

An attempt to fix the kettle turned into a disassembly.
I hope this information will be useful to the owners of this disposable "miracle device".

IMPORTANT points not included in the row:
the gray knuckle has a pair of hidden screws screwed into it from below closer to the spout (from the volume where the liquid is poured).
The power button has a hot-dip bracket that can pop out, after which problems may arise with its reverse setting. The following pictures can help you in this matter:
http://www.Imageup.ru/img269/2048841/01.Jpg.html
http://www.Imageup.ru/img269/2048846/02.Jpg.html
http://www.Imageup.ru/img269/2048850/03.Jpg.html
http://www.Imageup.ru/img188/2292646/dscf2311.Jpg.html
For solving problems that were not included in the list, we thank everyone who left comments on the merits!

I apologize in advance for the periodically defocused picture. Filmed on manual focus, besides, the matrix constantly overheated and was interrupted.

Disassembly of the Bosch TWK6006 kettle of the ALEXEY channel

So, we have an electric kettle Bosch TWK 6007N, made in P.R.C. (= Made in China), which has been heavily degraded over 3 years of operation and started flowing from below, which initially looked like this:

From the very beginning, a design problem was discovered: the lid does not lock in the open position and strives to lean back at 45 degrees, which was very annoying when pouring water. In addition to the build-up of precipitation outside the teapot, in all places with even the slightest hint of a crack,

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The plastic of the case began to crumble into dust. The dirt on the outside of the kettle has been absorbed into the plastic and won’t be washed away. Inside too:

The scale-sludge from the metal disk of the heater can still be chipped off (or dissolved with acid), but at the top of the case the scale seems to be absorbed into the plastic and is not washed off in any way. But most importantly, the kettle began to flow intensively from below. We reveal the villain:

We unscrew the bottom and find a terrible picture: the whole bottom is covered with scale build-ups, i.E. The kettle has been leaking for a long time, only the water did not flow out of the bottom, but rotted there and evaporated gradually. Following the traces of scale at the top between the heater disc and the body, we understand where it came from:

And even more,

A leak is observed exactly from that half of the heating element, which is adjacent to the handle. That is, we have a conclusion: such a design of a kettle, with a handle that is not attached from the bottom (see Photo 1, Photo 2), leads to the fact that when we tilt a heavy hot kettle filled with water, the back wall under the handle pulls the body away from heating element disk (as if making the body elliptical, while the heating disk is round).

We squeeze the heating element disk down (by hand, through the throat of the body). We see that there is only a silicone gasket between the heating element and the body:

And this gasket could shrink over time. Or, under it, as any expansions from heating, water flowed, leaving there as it dries up a sludge worsening the sealing.

And you know what? All teapots with a disc flat bottom heater have exactly the same gasket: iron (with a steel case), glass, and ceramic. In earlier times, the heating element was like this:

This spiral was attached to the body through a reliable flat gasket made of something dense. This is a heating element from a Tefal kettle from the 90s, which served for 10 years, never leaked, but was replaced only when its plastic body crumbled into dust, right down to through holes.

Well, from this modern high-tech Bosch, after 3 years only horns and legs remained:

I must say that the details of the teapot were made very high quality. For example, all these details in Photo 11 are spare parts of strategic value: they plowed for 3 years under the daily influence of steam and even the slightest rust of henna, i.E., These screws, screws and springs are made, most likely, of stainless steel in bulk ( not just nickel / zinc / oxide coated).

So, we have an electric kettle Bosch TWK 6007N, made in P.R.C. (= Made in China), which has been heavily degraded over 3 years of operation and started flowing from below, which initially looked like this:

From the very beginning, a design problem was discovered: the lid does not lock in the open position and strives to lean back at 45 degrees, which was very annoying when pouring water. In addition to the build-up of precipitation outside the teapot, in all places with even the slightest hint of a crack,

The plastic of the case began to crumble into dust. The dirt on the outside of the kettle has been absorbed into the plastic and won’t be washed away. Inside too:

The scale-sludge from the metal disk of the heater can still be chipped off (or dissolved with acid), but at the top of the case the scale seems to be absorbed into the plastic and is not washed off in any way. But most importantly, the kettle began to flow intensively from below. We reveal the villain:

We unscrew the bottom and find a terrible picture: the whole bottom is covered with scale build-ups, i.E. The kettle has been leaking for a long time, only the water did not flow out of the bottom, but rotted there and evaporated gradually. Following the traces of scale at the top between the heater disc and the body, we understand where it came from:

And even more,

A leak is observed exactly from that half of the heating element, which is adjacent to the handle. That is, we have a conclusion: such a design of a kettle, with a handle that is not attached from the bottom (see Photo 1, Photo 2), leads to the fact that when we tilt a heavy hot kettle filled with water, the back wall under the handle pulls the body away from heating element disk (as if making the body elliptical, while the heating disk is round).

We squeeze the heating element disk down (by hand, through the throat of the body). We see that there is only a silicone gasket between the heating element and the body:

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And this gasket could shrink over time. Or, under it, as any expansions from heating, water flowed, leaving there as it dries up a sludge worsening the sealing.

And you know what? All teapots with a disc flat bottom heater have exactly the same gasket: iron (with a steel case), glass, and ceramic. In earlier times, the heating element was like this:

This spiral was attached to the body through a reliable flat gasket made of something dense. This is a heating element from a Tefal kettle from the 90s, which served for 10 years, never leaked, but was replaced only when its plastic body crumbled into dust, right down to through holes.

Well, from this modern high-tech Bosch, after 3 years only horns and legs remained:

I must say that the details of the teapot were made very high quality. For example, all these details in Photo 11 are spare parts of strategic value: they plowed for 3 years under the daily influence of steam and even the slightest rust of henna, i.E., These screws, screws and springs are made, most likely, of stainless steel in bulk ( not just nickel / zinc / oxide coated).

Bosch kettle repair. Bosch kettle repair. How to disassemble the body of an electric kettle with a closed heating element

Regardless of the model, the device of electric kettles is almost the same, so disassembly always begins with removing the lid. To remove it, you need to find two self-tapping screws, they can be located in different ways:

  • In older models, the screws are at the top. That is, immediately after lifting the lid, access will be open to them;
  • In modern appliances, the top of the cover must be removed first. It is secured by two grooves that go into the base of the handle. You just need to move them a little. Then access to self-tapping screws will open, which need to be unscrewed.

On some models, the top cover can be removed together with the handle. Therefore, before proceeding with its removal, you need to study the structures and do not make efforts when removing.

Removing the teapot lid

Then we move on to the bottom of the case. The electric kettle must be turned over and three self-tapping screws must be found, in some models there may be more of them, but they are in plain sight, so this should not be difficult.

However, it will take a little patience and effort to detach the bottom, as there are teeth around the perimeter that go into the hole in the case. They need to be carefully snapped off. This must be done in stages so as not to break them or damage the case. Most often, they snap off quickly with a slight pressure of the screwdriver. But if the device has been in use for a long time, the procedure may take a little longer, since the case may simply stick to the base.

After removing the base, a heating element will appear in front of you, if it is a disc kettle, in which there is no direct contact between the heating element and water. If the heating element is most likely the cause of the breakdown, then you can ring it already at this stage of disassembly. This is done with a special device. With it, you can find out if there is a break in the coil inside the heating tube, or if something has happened to the contacts. If during the test the tester shows a value equal to infinity, then the heating element needs to be replaced. If the value is between 50 and 200 ohms, the heating element is OK.

We check the heating element for performance

We check the thermostat or thermostat. To do this, unscrew the screw, which is located at the bottom of the handle. Then carefully remove it. Some modern models of electric kettles may have a single handle and top cover design, so you need to carefully do all the manipulations.

How To Disassemble A Kettle Bosch

Removing the handle of the electric kettle

Then we find a self-tapping screw inside the handle. It is located directly below the kettle on or off button. It must be unscrewed and then removed. This requires a Phillips screwdriver. After removing it, you need to ring the thermostat at all connections. To disassemble the thermostat itself, you will need to remove the switch cover, they can be removed easily. Then we check this element. If there is such an element, it is better to replace it. If not, let’s analyze it further. The cover is removed by pressing and pulling it forward. Then you can clear all contacts.