How to Disassemble a Prorab Trimmer Coil
As a rule, a new inertialess coil has a pleasant velvet stroke, smooth and silent rotation. But after prolonged use, a certain crunch, rustling and vibration appears in the mechanism. To get rid of or prevent this, it is necessary to periodically disassemble the coil, clean it of dirt and change the lubricant.
High-quality lubrication of the coil makes the operation of the coil smooth and enjoyable, moreover, the new lubrication extends the life of all mechanisms.
Prevention of the coil should be done periodically, several times a season, depending on the frequency of use. And once a year you need to do a complete disassembly of the coil with the replacement of lubricant.
Naturally, you need to constantly monitor the coil, do not drop it on hard surfaces, try to avoid getting water into the mechanism and try to avoid all kinds of contaminants.
Dismantling and lubrication of inertia coils
What is needed to disassemble and lubricate the coil:
- 12mm wrench
- Fluid lubricant
How to disassemble an inertialess coil
When disassembling the inertialess coil, arrange all its parts in order from right to left, this will quickly and correctly assemble the coil.
Carefully remember the position and installation procedure of all parts, follow the following instructions.
Coil disassembly steps:
- Remove the friction brake nut;
- Remove the spool;
- Remove the washers and gears on the stock;
- Turn off the handle;
- We disassemble the mechanism of the coil: unscrew the bolt fixing the nut.
- Gently unscrew the rotor clamping nut with a wrench or pliers;
- Remove the rotor
- We remove from the rotor the handle of the logger and the mechanism that clicks it.
- We disassemble the logger roller (unscrew with a screwdriver);
- We unscrew the bolts and caps on the cover and remove the cover.
- Inside the coil you will see two gears and a slider – this is the main mechanism.
- Next, you need to remove the rod, after unscrewing the bolt that secures it.
- Remove the main gear, small gear and other parts.
- To remove the pinion gear, unscrew the three bolts.
- Remove the bearing from the pinion gear.
- Remove the cylinder from the pinion gear.
Disassembly of the coil is complete!
See the disassembly and assembly video below.
The coil assembly is carried out in the reverse order.
Spinning reel lubrication
- Clean the surface of the coil.
- Disassemble the coil.
- Clean parts in gasoline.
- Lubricate parts and bearings.
- Collect the coil.
Grease is used to lubricate gears and parts. Bearings are lubricated with liquid grease.
The teeth of all gears must be lubricated so that the grease completely fills the space between the teeth. Excess grease must be removed. Grease a large gear, a finger gear, a small gear, the internal part on a small gear and the stem with grease.
A thin layer of grease can cover other metal parts so that they do not corrode. Open bearings are lubricated with liquid grease, and closed bearings do not need to be lubricated.
When assembling, the pin of the small gear should fall into the groove of the part covering it. The main gear needs to be lubricated in several places and installed in the coil housing. Next, lubricate the rod over the entire length with thick grease and reinstall. The main mechanism of the coil is lubricated!
Assembly of the coil is carried out strictly in reverse order!
Disassembly, lubrication and reel assembly videos
Do not abuse the grease, since its excess can make the coil travel tight, and in some cases this can lead to jamming.
Dismantling the spreader roller
Cleaning the spreader roller
The structure of inertialess coils
Do not use solid oil as a grease.
Use specialized grease and fluid coils. On sale you can find lubricants for reels from specialized fishing companies: Abu Garcia, Daiwa, Shimano, Ryobi, Tica, Mikado, SFT, etc.
It is better to use the grease of the same company that produced the coil.
For example, Shimano produces a special grease designed for the main pair, mechanisms and bearings. Its viscous structure reduces friction, increases the service life and makes the coil work smoother.
The price of lubricants for coils varies from 2 to 100 dollars, depending on the company and the volume.
Shimano Exage Coil Disassembly
Daiwa Caldia coil disassembly
Overview of backlash in Daiwa and Shimano coils
If you want to learn more about the topic of reels, we recommend our article on reels for spinning.
Considering the conditions in which inertialess coils are operated – river sand, water or dirt – the mechanism may be subject to various disturbances in operation. Drops in water also negatively affect the operation of the fishing device: it is necessary to replace the grease in it, since abrasive substances in the water can damage parts. Various breakdowns can be associated with some features of the device coils of individual companies, and, of course, the duration depends on the quality of the selected coil.
Video: How to Disassemble a Prorab Trimmer Coil
This guide will help you conduct basic service of your coil, identify and repair the most common faults.
- How to disassemble ↓
- The most popular problems and their repair ↓
- Coil Care and Breakage Prevention ↓
How to disassemble
The main rule when disassembling, especially if you are doing this for the first time: lay out all the removed parts of the mechanism in order, from left to right. So when assembling, you will not get confused and assemble it correctly.
Before disassembling the coil, thoroughly wipe it from dirt, sand and fish slime with a cotton pad moistened with warm water. In case of severe pollution, a little liquid soap can be added to the water. Use a pair of tweezers or a cotton swab to remove contaminants in hard-to-reach places. Do not use aggressive household cleaners. If the surface is not cleaned with soap, dirt can be removed with alcohol or gasoline. Neglecting the external cleaning step will make disassembling the coil difficult.
- First you need to remove all easily collapsible external elements. The clutch nut is first unscrewed, after the spool is removed.
- Then you will see the installed small washers and gears, which must be laid out in the order in which you remove them.
- Then remove the handle.
- Now proceed to disassemble the reel mechanism itself: unscrew the clamping nut. This is easy to do with pliers or a wrench. Remove it with the lining.
- Then remove the rotor.
- On it you need to remove the handle and disassemble the mechanism that allows it to click, just disassemble the logger roller.
- Now you can disassemble the coil housing itself. First you need to unscrew the bolt of the lever that switches the reverse stroke, then remove the toggle switch.
- After that, you need to remove the plug, also using a screwdriver to remove the bolt.
- Then remove the coil wall, it is removed with effort, most likely, it will need to be picked up with tweezers.
- Now you get to the main coil mechanism – This is a slider and two gears that provide rotation. If it works and you disassemble the coil for preventive purposes, then simply clean the mechanism with a cotton swab without removing the contents. Just remove the old grease by thoroughly cleaning each clove.
- Of course, if the inside of the mechanism is very dirty, then all the parts must be removed and cleaned.
The coil is assembled in the reverse order; moreover, it is necessary in the process to constantly check the correct installation of parts.
The most popular problems and their repair
Depending on the type of coil and its design features, problems may arise during operation, some of which are easy to fix on your own. Consider the principles of customization in more detail:
- Loss of pen. This is the most popular issue. In order not to lose the handle, choose those models whose design has a washer and a sleeve for fixing the handle.
- Self-resetting of the logger. The stowage bar folds off during casting. Typically, this problem leads to the shooting of the bait, and in more severe cases, it can damage the rod. Sometimes this problem can be fixed by simply tightening the bolts that secure the arc. If this does not help, then you need to remove the cover that hides the spring, and either replace it with a more elastic one, or add hardness to it by installing a gasket on the shaft that secures the spring.
- Permanent cliffs of fishing line. Braided fishing line has less spring than monofilament, and on some models of inertialess coils breaks when casting. The problem may be due to the fact that the clutch fixing nut is 1.5-2 mm higher than the edge of the spool. The fishing line clings to the nut and falls under the edge, gets tangled there and a break occurs. This problem is fixed by installing a plastic gasket. To do this, remove the locking washer, then remove all friction washers, and then change the felt pad to a thin plastic one. After installing the parts in place, you will see that the fixing nut is aligned with the edge of the spool, and the fishing line can no longer catch.
- The fishing line is fed in a spiral. This malfunction is due to dirt getting into the logger roller. The bearing rubs, the fishing line does not pass through it, respectively, it spins and does not feed smoothly. Repair consists in disassembling, thoroughly cleaning and lubricating parts.
- Internal noise. If during fishing you heard any sounds uncharacteristic for a spinning reel, you must stop any work with it. They can be associated with serious damage. It is possible that dirt just got inside the mechanism, but there is a possibility of bearing damage. The coil must be disassembled, and, depending on the problem, either clean or replace damaged parts.
- Uneven winding of fishing line. It often happens that the line is wound around the spool along an oblique mowing line, forming either a front or rear cone. Washers of different thicknesses are located on the main shaft. If the fishing line is wound down cone, then to remove the problem you need to remove one washer. Accordingly, if the cone is directed upwards, then the washer must be added.
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Coil Care and Breakage Prevention
Prevention of low-quality operation of the inertialess coil begins with a careful attitude to it: storage and transportation should be carried out only in a special case. This will protect against external mechanical damage. In addition, ultraviolet radiation adversely affects the fishing line.
When wet in the rain or when the coil falls into the water, it is imperative to lubricate the mechanism. Very often, bearings wear out of dry running, and replacing them will cost 20-25% of the cost of the entire fishing gear.
When closing the season, it is also necessary to carry out coil maintenance.
To carry out preventive measures, you will need the assembly instruction, which is included in the package of the branded inertialess spinning reel. In addition to it, you will need some tools: screwdrivers, a set of tweezers, brushes, cotton buds, gasoline for lighters (you can replace white with spirit, alcohol or ether), lubricants: liquid oil for external elements, and thick oil that will be needed to process parts when fully disassembling the coil.
A very useful video on repairing many parts of inertia, as well as preventing breakdowns.
When closing the season, it is also necessary to carry out coil maintenance. The first step is to disassemble and clean it. It is cleaned with a cotton pad (and in hard-to-reach places – with a cotton swab) dipped in a cleaning solution. The main reel mechanism must be greased with thick oil, but do not use solid oil based oils. Such lubricants tend to coke. On parts made of aluminum alloys, namely this material and is used in coils most often, it acts destructively. Many anglers use household oil, although manufacturers recommend not doing this and use lubricants designed specifically for reels or at least designed specifically for use with bearings.
To process such parts that do not need to be disassembled due to the fact that they are not damaged, for example, a forestry arm or bearings, manufacturers recommend the use of silicone-based lubricants in the form of aerosols. They are safe and easy to use. Silicone grease is liquid and easily penetrates deep into the mechanisms, enveloping the parts, and does not allow them to rub against each other.