How to Disassemble a Trimmer Coil Caliber 1500
Guaranteed production of a factory trimmer refill will inevitably require replacing the fishing line. Having a very rough idea of how to fill the fishing line into the reel of the trimmer yourself, beginners are reluctant to take up this matter. However, with some skills, mastering this simple science does not present any difficulties, and the similar instruction presented below will facilitate this process as much as possible.
First of all, for winding fishing line it is required to remove the reel (bobbin, spool) from the trimmer – specific actions will depend on the complexity of the configuration and the type of product itself:
- Small electric trimmers with a working arrangement of the engine and the coil in the lower part, as a rule, have side keys on both sides of the bobbin. By pressing them simultaneously, the upper part of the reel, together with the internal contents for winding the fishing line, is disconnected, while the lower one remains on the trimmer. It is advisable to disassemble the bobbin on an even smooth place so that the spring included in the design does not pop out and is not lost;
- Electric and gasoline trimmers with a curved rod without the possibility of installing a knife, as a rule, have coils with a special wing: in such designs, you should hold the spool in one position with one hand and rotate the locking reel on the wing nut with the other counterclockwise. After disconnecting the nut, the entire reel is removed.
- Electric and petrol trimmers with the possibility of installing a knife on a straight bar (for example, Stihl trimmers) have a hole under the bobbin. For the motion of the rod to be stationary, a screwdriver or other suitable object is inserted into this hole and with a slow rotation, such a mutual arrangement is achieved when the screwdriver enters the hole and the bobbin is fixed. After that, the coil body scrolls clockwise (with the left thread) and is removed from the trimmer.
For the second and third cases, the coils, depending on the design, are disassembled in various ways. In bobbins with a lamb, a lamb is twisted, in coils with latches, latches-clamps are pressed and one part of the coil is released from the other. If the halves of the spool are threaded, it is enough to turn them by hand in opposite directions until they are completely unscrewed.
We carry out winding fishing line
Slowly completed disassembling the spool reel without losing its spare parts allows you to go to the main task – winding fishing line into the reel. Technological features of the design of the spool and the number of working antennae determine the sequence of actions.
Coil with one working antenna
The simplest option and a simple sequence of actions:
- The dimensions of the bobbin and the length of the original factory winding determine the recommended fishing line length for winding – 2 … 5 m.
- One end of the fishing line is inserted into the fixing technological hole located inside the spool.
- The fishing line is wound on the drum in the reverse direction of rotation of the spool on the trimmer product – as a rule, on the inner side of the bobbin an arrow indicates which direction the winding is going.
- A small section of fishing line is left free to bring it out – it is fixed in a specialized groove on the inside of the reel, designed to hold the winding when assembling the spool in working condition.
- The left end of the line is passed through the hole on the outside of the bobbin.
- The bobbin halves are assembled and put on the bar of the trimmer.
Coil with two working antennae
In this type of spools, you should determine the number of grooves for winding fishing line lying on the inside of the reel:
- One groove – both antennae are wound together along one groove;
- Two grooves – each antennae is wound on an individual groove.
For both cases, a 2-3-meter-long fishing line is taken. In single-groove reels, the fishing line is pulled into the through hole, its ends (antennae) are folded together and aligned, after which they are wound in the opposite direction of rotation of the bobbin on the side of the bar – the correct direction of winding is usually indicated inside the arrow. In the presence of fixing grooves, the ends of the fishing line are threaded into them or held by the fingers of their free hands, threaded into the through hole of the outer half of the bobbin, the spool is closed and attached to the bar of the trimmer.
The difference between winding fishing line in two-groove reels is that initially a piece of fishing line 2-5 m long is folded in half (to determine the middle bend), and the bend loop is inserted into a special groove between the grooves. Both antennae of the fishing line are wound each in its own groove, the fixation of the antennae and the reel assembly are similar to the one-groove variant discussed above.
The first implementation of this procedure may seem long and rather laborious, but with time and experience this task will be solved much faster and easier.
The video below will clearly show how to put the fishing line into the reel of the trimmer and wrap it correctly – this operation is not difficult and with some patience will certainly succeed:
Automatic reeling of fishing line
There is a variety of coils in which the automatic mechanism makes winding on its own – from the user it is enough just to properly fill the line. The fishing line is passed through the hole on the inside of the case, its antennae without winding is passed through the hole on the external case, the spool is assembled, and when the winding button is rotated, the line inside is wound up independently. In such a spool, it is impossible to make the winding incorrectly: the mechanism itself will determine the correct direction, since it can only turn in one direction.
Video: How to Disassemble a Trimmer Coil Caliber 1500
Considering the conditions in which inertialess coils are operated – river sand, water or dirt – the mechanism may be subject to various disturbances in operation. Drops in water also negatively affect the operation of the fishing device: it is necessary to replace the grease in it, since abrasive substances in the water can damage parts. Various breakdowns can be associated with some features of the device coils of individual companies, and, of course, the duration depends on the quality of the selected coil.
This guide will help you conduct basic service of your coil, identify and repair the most common faults.
- How to disassemble ↓
- The most popular problems and their repair ↓
- Coil Care and Breakage Prevention ↓
How to disassemble
The main rule when disassembling, especially if you are doing this for the first time: lay out all the removed parts of the mechanism in order, from left to right. So when assembling, you will not get confused and assemble it correctly.
Before disassembling the coil, thoroughly wipe it from dirt, sand and fish slime with a cotton pad moistened with warm water. In case of severe pollution, a little liquid soap can be added to the water. Use a pair of tweezers or a cotton swab to remove contaminants in hard-to-reach places. Do not use aggressive household cleaners. If the surface is not cleaned with soap, dirt can be removed with alcohol or gasoline. Neglecting the external cleaning step will make disassembling the coil difficult.
- First you need to remove all easily collapsible external elements. The clutch nut is first unscrewed, after the spool is removed.
- Then you will see the installed small washers and gears, which must be laid out in the order in which you remove them.
- Then remove the handle.
- Now proceed to disassemble the reel mechanism itself: unscrew the clamping nut. This is easy to do with pliers or a wrench. Remove it with the lining.
- Then remove the rotor.
- On it you need to remove the handle and disassemble the mechanism that allows it to click, just disassemble the logger roller.
- Now you can disassemble the coil housing itself. First you need to unscrew the bolt of the lever that switches the reverse stroke, then remove the toggle switch.
- After that, you need to remove the plug, also using a screwdriver to remove the bolt.
- Then remove the coil wall, it is removed with effort, most likely, it will need to be picked up with tweezers.
- Now you get to the main coil mechanism – This is a slider and two gears that provide rotation. If it works and you disassemble the coil for preventive purposes, then simply clean the mechanism with a cotton swab without removing the contents. Just remove the old grease by thoroughly cleaning each clove.
- Of course, if the inside of the mechanism is very dirty, then all the parts must be removed and cleaned.
The coil is assembled in the reverse order; moreover, it is necessary in the process to constantly check the correct installation of parts.
The most popular problems and their repair
Depending on the type of coil and its design features, problems may arise during operation, some of which are easy to fix on your own. Consider the principles of customization in more detail:
- Loss of pen. This is the most popular issue. In order not to lose the handle, choose those models whose design has a washer and a sleeve for fixing the handle.
- Self-resetting of the logger. The stowage bar folds off during casting. Typically, this problem leads to the shooting of the bait, and in more severe cases, it can damage the rod. Sometimes this problem can be fixed by simply tightening the bolts that secure the arc. If this does not help, then you need to remove the cover that hides the spring, and either replace it with a more elastic one, or add hardness to it by installing a gasket on the shaft that secures the spring.
- Permanent cliffs of fishing line. Braided fishing line has less spring than monofilament, and on some models of inertialess coils breaks when casting. The problem may be due to the fact that the clutch fixing nut is 1.5-2 mm higher than the edge of the spool. The fishing line clings to the nut and falls under the edge, gets tangled there and a break occurs. This problem is fixed by installing a plastic gasket. To do this, remove the locking washer, then remove all friction washers, and then change the felt pad to a thin plastic one. After installing the parts in place, you will see that the fixing nut is aligned with the edge of the spool, and the fishing line can no longer catch.
- The fishing line is fed in a spiral. This malfunction is due to dirt getting into the logger roller. The bearing rubs, the fishing line does not pass through it, respectively, it spins and does not feed smoothly. Repair consists in disassembling, thoroughly cleaning and lubricating parts.
- Internal noise. If during fishing you heard any sounds uncharacteristic for a spinning reel, you must stop any work with it. They can be associated with serious damage. It is possible that dirt just got inside the mechanism, but there is a possibility of bearing damage. The coil must be disassembled, and, depending on the problem, either clean or replace damaged parts.
- Uneven winding of fishing line. It often happens that the line is wound around the spool along an oblique mowing line, forming either a front or rear cone. Washers of different thicknesses are located on the main shaft. If the fishing line is wound down cone, then to remove the problem you need to remove one washer. Accordingly, if the cone is directed upwards, then the washer must be added.
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Coil Care and Breakage Prevention
Prevention of low-quality operation of the inertialess coil begins with a careful attitude to it: storage and transportation should be carried out only in a special case. This will protect against external mechanical damage. In addition, ultraviolet radiation adversely affects the fishing line.
When wet in the rain or when the coil falls into the water, it is imperative to lubricate the mechanism. Very often, bearings wear out of dry running, and replacing them will cost 20-25% of the cost of the entire fishing gear.
When closing the season, it is also necessary to carry out coil maintenance.
To carry out preventive measures, you will need the assembly instruction, which is included in the package of the branded inertialess spinning reel. In addition to it, you will need some tools: screwdrivers, a set of tweezers, brushes, cotton buds, gasoline for lighters (you can replace white with spirit, alcohol or ether), lubricants: liquid oil for external elements, and thick oil that will be needed to process parts when fully disassembling the coil.
A very useful video on repairing many parts of inertia, as well as preventing breakdowns.
When closing the season, it is also necessary to carry out coil maintenance. The first step is to disassemble and clean it. It is cleaned with a cotton pad (and in hard-to-reach places – with a cotton swab) dipped in a cleaning solution. The main reel mechanism must be greased with thick oil, but do not use solid oil based oils. Such lubricants tend to coke. On parts made of aluminum alloys, namely this material and is used in coils most often, it acts destructively. Many anglers use household oil, although manufacturers recommend not doing this and use lubricants designed specifically for reels or at least designed specifically for use with bearings.
To process such parts that do not need to be disassembled due to the fact that they are not damaged, for example, a forestry arm or bearings, manufacturers recommend the use of silicone-based lubricants in the form of aerosols. They are safe and easy to use. Silicone grease is liquid and easily penetrates deep into the mechanisms, enveloping the parts, and does not allow them to rub against each other.