How to disassemble and reassemble the Makita screwdriver

Voltage

Before purchasing, check the voltage of the selected model on the manufacturer’s official website. So, for example, the Makita 627 model has a voltage of 12 volts in all configurations. Fakes are often labeled 14 or 18 volts.

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Information sticker

The original case always has a sticker with the serial number and marking of the country of origin. The number on the case must match the number on the instrument.

Plastic quality

The original has it durable, shockproof. For fakes. fragile, with roughness.

How to distinguish an original Makita screwdriver from a fake

Latches

The original latches always have a logo, which cannot be said about a replica.

Packaging

It is also worth paying attention to the instructions and the passport of the device. The original tool is accompanied by passports for the screwdriver itself, the charger, as well as a manual in English and Russian from the Makita brand, and a quality certificate.

The complete set of a fake, at best, will be limited to instructions in a foreign language without specifying the brand of the instrument.

1) Screwdriver. 12V Bosch GSB12-2-Li fake

Accumulator battery

The fake battery has striking differences from the original, so it is quite easy to determine the replica for this part.

The Makita proprietary screwdriver is supplied with a 10.8 volt lithium-ion battery. A fake, with a similar capacity of 1.5 A per hour, is 18 volt and has the appropriate marking.

The battery from a fake screwdriver will definitely not fit on the original, since the battery of the latter has a seal on one of the screws and differs in the location of the slots.

The branded battery is supplied only with the control unit, if we talk about the filling. In the replica, you will find a control board and a charging unit right in the battery itself.

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Capacitive elements on Makita are supplied by Sony or LG, as evidenced by the marking. Similar elements of the replica indicate the identification that corresponds to the batteries in household flashlights.

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All instruments are outwardly similar to each other. The design of the screwdriver has a characteristic shape (reminiscent of a pistol), the body is made of durable shockproof plastic. The working equipment is fixed with a keyless chuck. To disassemble a screwdriver, a number of simple operations should be performed, namely:

In order for you to have to disassemble and repair the screwdriver as rarely as possible, you should check the charge of its battery before work, select the correct attachments, clearly fix the cartridge and adjust the rotation speed of the bit.

How to disassemble a screwdriver: independently or with the help of a wizard?

The screwdriver is the tool that ideally combines high functionality, autonomy and compact size. With this technique, you can perform a wide range of tasks, from screwing screws and punching holes in soft materials to complex precision work on a large scale. Today the screwdriver is in great demand not only among professionals who are engaged in repair and construction, but also among home craftsmen. With this tool, you can fix shelves, hang pictures, assemble furniture and perform many other operations.

The need to disassemble the screwdriver arises in such cases:

  • for lubricating parts;
  • to replace worn out or faulty parts.

For this, some take the tool to a service center or an equipment repair shop. However, if you do not have time or the warranty period has expired, it is quite possible to disassemble the screwdriver yourself. The main thing is to have some idea of ​​how the tool works.

Dismantling the “Makita” screwdriver: causes of malfunction

High quality power tools are produced under the Makita brand. The screwdrivers of this manufacturer have high power, optimal weight (about 1.5 kg), LED backlighting. Thanks to these qualities, the tool is convenient to use under any conditions, including in poorly lit rooms. The handle is rubberized, so it is easy to hold it. Before you disassemble the screwdriver, you need to determine the cause of the breakdown. Such malfunctions often occur:

  • The instrument does not turn on. In this case, you need to disassemble the screwdriver, inspect the battery, check the contacts and connections in the case, and the wiring. Checking should be done with a multimeter.
  • The reverse button does not work. Such a breakdown suggests that it is not possible to tighten and unscrew screws and bolts. In case of this malfunction of the screwdriver, you need to disassemble it and use a multimeter to check the resistance of the button by placing the probes on the output and input wires.
  • The speed regulator does not work. As a result, the turnover will be either overestimated or underestimated. The reason lies in problems with the transistor or brushes. To understand what exactly does not work, you need to disassemble the tool and visually inspect the details.
  • There are extraneous sounds or hum when the screwdriver is running. This indicates that the bearings are worn out. To eliminate the breakdown, you need to disassemble the screwdriver and check the integrity of the motor armature bearing and the gearbox. If the parts are in good order, check the bushings.
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How to disassemble a screwdriver for troubleshooting?

How to extend the “life” of a screwdriver?

It’s not just cheap tools that fail. Any equipment wears out over time, requires timely maintenance, replacement of parts. To prolong the life of the screwdriver, it is important to adhere to some recommendations. In particular, these are:

  • Observe the operating conditions. If you drill concrete every day with this tool, it will deteriorate very quickly.
  • Consider the appointment. Distinguish between household and professional screwdrivers. If the latter are designed for long-term trouble-free operation, then amateur tools can be operated no more than two hours a day.
  • Do not violate storage conditions. The equipment must not be stored in rooms with high humidity levels. If the mechanical or electrical parts of the tool become damp, the screwdriver will quickly fail and must be disassembled. You need to store it in a dry, ventilated place, at the optimum temperature, because the battery is destroyed in the cold. In winter, it is better to leave the tool in a heated room.
  • Do not expose to adverse weather conditions. Not only snow or rain, but also sunlight can negatively affect the performance of the screwdriver. If the device overheats, then when turned on, it may simply burn out. Therefore, be careful not to leave the device under the scorching sun for a long period of time.

Knowing how to disassemble a Zubr screwdriver or a device from another manufacturer, you will not be left without a tool for a long time. There will be no need to take the equipment to the workshop, wait until diagnostics and repairs are carried out. You will be able to independently determine the cause of the breakdown and eliminate it as quickly as possible.

How to repair a screwdriver battery

Battery powered screwdrivers are also very susceptible to battery wear. This happens over time even with proper use. If you do not follow the rules of operation, the battery will no longer hold a charge very quickly. And in this situation there are two ways out: buy a new battery or try to repair the battery of a Makita screwdriver with your own hands.

The second option will require spending a certain amount of time and effort, and you also need special elements.

The battery of the screwdriver is a set of a number of special nutritional cans, which are soldered to the charging controller and make up an integral structure.

The corresponding nutrients can be found in power banks or laptops. There are also some such banks there. In laptops, 6 cans are usually used, and in power banks. 4. But the number may be different and depends on the capacity of the battery.

Battery disassembly

First of all, it is necessary to disassemble the battery of the Makita screwdriver. To do this, it is disconnected from the screwdriver, and then all the screws are unscrewed from it. The battery case opens and you can see the design of the cell itself. There will be 10 cans, soldered together and soldered to the power controller.

It is necessary to disconnect the banks from the board. For this, a drill with a special attachment is used.

Disassembly of the gearbox

The first step is to disassemble the tool itself and separate the gearbox. Now it is important to remove all unnecessary details at this stage. To do this, simply empty all the gears from the gearbox. It is worth noting that if there is no information about the exact location of each part, it is better to disassemble it sequentially and carefully.

Record and mark the location of the gears. This is necessary for a high-quality assembly of the gearbox after repair work. You can also use tutorial videos or articles.

Disconnecting cans from the board

Using a drill with a disk nozzle, the cans are sawn off from the board. The connections of each contact with the controller are sequentially removed, and the elements are disconnected from the common frame.

It is necessary to do this quite carefully so as not to damage the board itself, but hard enough to completely disconnect.

Soldering new cans

Immediately after freeing the frame and the board from the old batteries, new ones can be connected to them. Before soldering, it is recommended to properly clean the surfaces on the cans and on the board itself from the remnants of past soldering. This will allow you to achieve better contact for a long time.

Now all new cans from other devices are placed in the appropriate places on the frame and are soldered to the power controller one by one. It is recommended to do this with a thick nozzle on a soldering iron, since a lot of solder will be needed. The contact must be very reliable and have a large contact area.

After sequential assembly, it is recommended to wrap the entire structure in special paper and place it back into the case. Then the battery is reassembled and closed with a cover that is fastened with screws.

Before use, the battery must be recharged at a special station to its full capacity, and only then only connect it to a screwdriver for testing. If done correctly, the battery will become functional again.

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Replacement banks can be removed from other batteries or purchased separately. The cost for them is quite decent, but still manual replacement will cost much less than buying a new battery.

Screwing in bolts instead of teeth

After all the gears are removed from the gearbox, the inside of the device will open to the eye. Given the specifics of the problem, most likely the master will see that all the plastic teeth on the inside have been ground off. This happens during long-term use of the device, or in case of gross violation of the rules of use. Plastic teeth are soft enough that they simply grind under the influence of temperature and constant mechanical stress. This leads to the fact that the main gear has nothing to catch on and it starts to scroll.

To repair and restore functionality, it is necessary to restore the teeth. In this case, there is no need to restore all the teeth, but it is enough to install two iron.

To accomplish what you want, you need a drill, small bolts and a drill. It is advisable to use a diamond-coated drill, since it will allow you to effectively grind off the excess part of the bolt in a relatively short time.

Work order:

  • At the location of the plastic tooth, a hole is drilled in the side wall of the gearbox. Use a drill bit slightly smaller than the diameter of the bolt. So it will be possible to screw it in with effort and ensure a secure fit.
  • Two holes must be drilled diagonally to ensure a secure hold of the gearbox and stable tool performance. Thus, the load will be distributed over two teeth.
  • During drilling, it is advisable to direct the drill slightly downward so that later the bolt does not stick out upward. Otherwise, it will take much longer to process it with a drill.
  • Now you need to forcefully screw the bolts into the holes obtained.

How to disassemble a Makita screwdriver

To disassemble the Makita screwdriver, you must first disconnect the battery. Then, in the tool body, all the screws that hold the two halves together are unscrewed. After that, the case is removed, and all external components are opened in front of the master: motor, gearbox and switch. It is also worth noting that in such models, special plates are often installed, which are responsible for switching modes. If the disassembly is not very attentive, a small plate can simply not be noticed. After disassembly, you can immediately proceed with the repair of the corresponding part.

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Using a drill

The bolts are processed with a drill from the sides and, if necessary, shortened in length. It is necessary to give the bolts the shape of a real tooth and provide for the installation of the crown without interference.

Important! It is not recommended to overheat the bolt while working with the drill. Otherwise, it can become very hot and melt the surrounding plastic. The gear housing will deform, leading to more serious problems. So you need to take breaks while working. To let the bolt cool down.

Once the teeth are ready, the gear ring can be reinserted. If done correctly, it will insert without any interference. Two teeth are usually enough to restore the gearbox to work, so screwing in more bolts is not logical.

How to disassemble a screwdriver

The screwdriver is disassembled in the following sequence:

  • Remove the battery.
  • Unscrew the screws connecting the two halves of the case.

The screwdriver body consists of two parts, connected by a fairly large number of self-tapping screws. in order to disassemble it, you need to find all the attachment points

  • Take off its top.
  • Take out the contents.
  • Disconnect the button.
  • The screwdriver button is integral with the switching mechanism, which is connected to the motor, therefore, when separating the button from the socket on the body, care must be taken not to break the wires

  • Remove the speed switch.
  • Disconnect the motor, gearbox, adjusting sleeve and chuck.
  • In order to disconnect the screwdriver gearbox from its motor, it is necessary to unscrew the four screws located at the contact point of the two plastic covers

    Charger repair

    Frequent charger breakdowns:

    • the fuse is on;
    • the network cable breaks;
    • the primary winding of the transformer is cut off;
    • diodes break through.

    If we disassemble the charger of the screwdriver, then we will see a step-down transformer and a board. Through the mains wire, voltage is supplied to the primary winding of the transformer. The thermal fuse is connected in series with the mains winding, so it overheats first and protects the winding from breaking. From the secondary winding, the voltage goes to the diode bridge. If the charging passes current, then yellowness forms around the diodes. Transformer windings overheat, diodes break through.

    The screwdriver charger consists of a step-down transformer and a board with electronics

    • Measure the resistance at the primary winding with a multimeter. If it is not there, then the circuit is broken and voltage is not supplied to the primary coil. The fuse is located under the insulation of the transformer next to the wires connecting to the mains. Check it with a tester.
    • If the fuse is intact, check the power cable, it may be broken.
    • If the wire is ok, check the windings. Replace transformer in case of breakdown.
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    If these methods do not help, disassemble the screwdriver and remove the gearbox assembly. Take an L-shaped tubular wrench (most often 19 “) and unscrew the chuck, clamping the gearbox mounting bolts on the back with the spanner head of the wrench. She will give the necessary emphasis, with which the cartridge can be unscrewed by hand.

    Engine repair

    The screwdriver uses a DC motor in a cylindrical housing with magnets. Inside there is an anchor with windings and brushes. To check the motor, disconnect the gearbox and the wires leading to the button, and measure the resistance of the armature winding with a multimeter. The lack of readings of the device indicates an open circuit, and a very low value indicates a short circuit. The collector resistance is measured on the shaft and each plate. It should be zero. Armature malfunctions lead to shutdown during operation, loss of power, arcing and smoke.

    Why and how to adjust the ratchet

    The screwdriver ratchet is a clutch designed to limit the force when the chuck rotates. Its presence in a power tool can be identified by a rotating ring with numbers. Some users do not understand the meaning of the clutch and do not touch it. Using a ratchet, you can adjust the screw-in depth of the self-tapping screw. In a material that is too soft, the head of the fastener is easily recessed and can go through. When using small fasteners, very high torques can destroy them. The ratchet prevents cutting of the slot at the self-tapping screws and the wear of the screwdriver bits. To determine the desired value on the adjusting ring, make several passes, starting with the minimum.

    Each number on the ratchet corresponds to a certain value of the twisting force. the larger the number, the greater the force and vice versa

    If the screwdriver has a drilling mode, then the last icon on the coupling will be a pictogram with a drill image. Maximum torque is used in this position.

    Replacing brushes

    Graphite brushes are located at the end of the motor from the side of the connection with the button. They can be located inside the motor housing under the rear cover or outside. If at least one of the brushes is 40% worn, replace both. Check your contacts. The following symptoms indicate wear on the brushes:

    • the engine runs in jerks;
    • sounds unusual for normal operation are heard;
    • sparking;
    • the smell of burning.

    When removing and installing brushes, you need to hold the holders, otherwise, under the action of a spring, they can fly quite far

    diagnostics and replacement of the screwdriver button

    Button repair sequence:

    • There is no need to unsolder the wires from the button. Carefully, so as not to damage the base, remove the pressing part of the button, which does not fall into the inner area of ​​the case. This should not be done with a jerk, but slowly rotate and pull towards you.
    • Remove the protective cover. Take a knife and a flat screwdriver. Pry up and release all latches. Pull out element numbered 1 and remove the cover of the switch compartment numbered 2. If the contacts are slightly burnt, they must be cleaned. But if they are completely burnt out, then the button is best replaced. It is sold complete with wires. If the contacts are intact, then move on.
    • Holding the spring, carefully pull out the engaging mechanism. Look inside. Perhaps due to the poor quality of the metal, the contact pads have worn off and dust has formed that has settled inside the plastic box. Accordingly, the dielectric surfaces began to conduct electric current. This is one of the reasons for the spontaneous operation of the device. The second reason is a failed transistor. Remove metal dust with cotton wool and alcohol. The contacts can be scraped off with a knife, but not with sandpaper, so as not to spoil their surface. Now put everything in the reverse order. Replace the burnt out transistor. Turn on the tool.

    The cause of a button malfunction may be burnt contacts, metal dust or a burnt out transistor.