How to disassemble the Makita 12 volt screwdriver
How to restore a 12 volt Makita screwdriver battery by applying high currents
A pulse current is supplied to the problem battery using the popular Imax B6 charger, or similar. Before starting work, you must:
- check the electrolyte balance in the batteries;
- set the “nickel-cadmium” mode on the charger.
If the amount of electrolyte remaining in the banks is not large, it is impossible to start recovery, because this will ruin the battery. The missing electrolyte volume is replaced with distilled water, and only then the reconstruction begins.
To fill in the water, a hole is made with a thin drill on the side of the battery, as close as possible to the upper edge. Water is poured using a syringe with a needle until the can is completely filled. The procedure is repeated for all batteries, the filled elements are left for settling for a day.
After that, a bundle (“cassette”) of batteries is connected to Imax B6 for charging with parameters: 12 volts in short-term pulses, resistance value. 40 ohms. When the batteries are charged to 100%, they are left again for a day. A multimeter is used to check the voltage at each element, finding out if it has dropped. If an undercharged battery is found, water is added to it again, charged and the voltage is checked again.
When each can holds a charge stably, the drilled holes are sealed with silicone glue.
The battery housing of the screwdriver contains power elements (batteries, banks). They can be made from different components, which is reflected in their name:
- nickel metal hydride;
Batteries containing nickel and cadmium are widespread and highly recoverable due to their “memory effect”. This effect is a reversible loss of capacity that occurs if the battery charging mode is disrupted. For example, the battery for a Makita screwdriver was not completely discharged, but only up to 40%, but it was set to recharge. The battery remembers the 40% mark and in the future it will work only until the discharge of this value is reached. This inconvenience can be corrected in several ways.
How to restore the battery on a Makita screwdriver
If the battery has stopped holding a charge, and it is difficult to quickly acquire a new one in the near future, the situation can be corrected if you know how to restore a battery to a Makita screwdriver on your own.
Replacing a few worn-out cans
Of the total number of cans in a cassette, only a few can exhaust their resource. They can be removed from the solder by replacing them with serviceable ones. First, they look for damaged elements: measure the voltage of each with a multimeter, recording the results. The sum of the voltages of all batteries must be within 14 volts. Then the battery is connected to a screwdriver, they work intensively for some time, and measurements are taken again. If the difference between the first and second digits for an individual can is 0.5-0.7 volts, it must be replaced.
If the instrument was purchased from an authorized representative, it is not recommended to disassemble it, as there is a risk of losing the possibility of warranty service.
In the stuffing of an original Makita screwdriver and a fake one, you can find differences in the following details:
- switch. in a replica, it has the simplest design and sharp corners, similar to those that are installed on Chinese-made tools;
- motor. has some structural differences. The original can also be identified by the laser markings. In the replica, the engraving of the motor is made by the method of spraying and corresponds to the class of products installed on Chinese-made tools.
Counterfeit tools can last for quite a long time, provided they are used carefully. However, when buying an original Makita screwdriver, you can be sure of the reliability of the device, as well as get warranty repair if necessary.
Fake screwdrivers, drills, hammer drills, angle grinder, saws with Avito 9.
A lot of counterfeit instruments are sold on Avito. copies from China, very similar to the original instrument and of terrible quality, and yet they are given out by little things that are immediately visible.
Makita. popular tools of excellent quality and impeccable functionality.
Especially on the eve of the holidays, the Internet begins to “dazzle” with advertisements for the sale of various models. How can you identify a fake?
First of all, we pay close attention to the case itself. In the original, it has a blue-green color with a three-dimensional logo. For fakes, the logo is either pasted or painted.
Release Button Color
In the original, it is grayish in color. Red is fake.
The fake battery has striking differences from the original, so it is quite easy to identify a replica for this part.
The Makita proprietary screwdriver is supplied with a 10.8 volt lithium-ion battery. A fake, with a similar capacity of 1.5 A per hour, is 18 volt and has the appropriate marking.
The battery from a fake screwdriver will definitely not fit on the original, since the battery of the latter has a seal on one of the screws and differs in the location of the slots.
The branded battery is supplied only with the control unit, if we talk about the filling. In the replica, you will find the control board and the charging unit right in the battery itself.
Capacitive elements on Makita are supplied by Sony or LG, as evidenced by the marking. Similar elements of the replica indicate the identification that corresponds to the batteries in household flashlights.
Before purchasing, check the voltage of the selected model on the manufacturer’s official website. So, for example, the Makita 627 model has a voltage of 12 volts in all configurations. Fakes are often labeled 14 or 18 volts.
External differences in the case are not obvious, you should take a closer look. It is possible to unmistakably identify a fake by the two sleeve chuck and the gray color of the tool power adjustment scale. On the original, the scale is drawn on a black background.
The tag on the Makita proprietary screwdriver is metal, contains information about the manufacturer, and the serial number and production date are stamped on the metal. On the replica, you will find an ordinary sticker.
It is worth paying attention to the hook for attaching the tool to the belt. On a fake screwdriver, it can be hung and fixed in a certain place, and on the original. on both sides.
The original case always has a sticker with the serial number and marking of the country of origin. The number on the case must match the number on the instrument.
The original latches always have a logo, which cannot be said about a replica.
Types of fasteners, preparation for work
The battery module can be fastened with:
It is not uncommon to use a combination mount with the simultaneous use of different types of fasteners, such as screws and glue.
Before disassembling the battery from a Makita screwdriver, you should measure the voltage issued by the battery pack. This figure will help determine the number of faulty cans. After assembly, the measurement is carried out again, checking the correctness of the work done.
How to disassemble the battery of a Makita screwdriver 12 V, sealed with adhesive
The glue seam should be disconnected especially carefully so that cracks and splits do not appear on the plastic, and when assembled, the case completely covers all the electronic parts and ensures safety. To do this, it is rational to use a mallet with a rubber striker, or another hammer made of soft material.
Around the entire perimeter of the seam, blows are applied, applying medium force, ensuring that the gun slightly bounces off the body. The procedure is not short-term, it takes from 10 minutes. and more should be done without haste. In its course, the halves of the body are periodically slightly pulled apart from each other, helping them to separate. The adhesive layer collapses with a characteristic sound, when specific clicks become more frequent, you can help the separation with a thin knife blade, or a similar tool, trying to open the seam with it.
Another way to gently unfasten the glued module is with a thin knife, flat screwdriver. It lasts a little longer, work must be done with caution, since the risk of injury and plastic cracking is very high. With a blade, gently loosen the seam around the entire perimeter, then insert a screwdriver tip into it and slowly separate the halves of the module.
Before disassembling the battery of the Makita 12 volt screwdriver, you can warm up the glue layer using a construction hair dryer, which will speed up and facilitate the work. Having placed the battery module at a safe distance, a hot stream is directed to the connection, warming it up around the perimeter. When the glue has softened, the case will be easy to open.
Important: gloves used during work will help avoid burns.
How to disassemble a battery from a Makita screwdriver
Disassemble the battery for the Makita screwdriver in order to replace one / several cans (batteries), or to transfer it to another type of nutrient elements. Work must be carried out with the utmost care, movements must be precise, careful so that the case, banks, electronic boards and wires are not damaged, and the module, after assembly, functioned properly and safely.
Connection with screws, latches
Loosening a screw fastener also requires care. Pick up a screwdriver with a suitable tip shape, rod length. They remember from which holes each screw was unscrewed, and during assembly they are screwed strictly into place. This must be done due to the fact that the hardware can be of different lengths. A short screw screwed into a deep hole will not be able to secure the connection, and a long screw placed in a short opening can pierce the wall of the case, power elements and even an electronic board. If, as a result of this, the electrolyte seeps out, the microcircuits, nearby banks will be damaged, and in case of an unfavorable development of events, an explosion is possible.
The module, fastened with latches, is easy to open: you just need to find them and open them with moderate force. Most often, one latch is used, or two side.
How to assemble one battery from two
It so happens that the best way out of the situation when both batteries are “hooked” is a way to assemble one complete battery of two. Using any of the proposed methods, you can disassemble both blocks in order to understand which elements are suitable for further use, and which should be discarded.
For this you will need:
- two batteries,
- any thin and flat screwdriver,
- a piece of sandpaper,
- two wires,
- load resistance (two are possible),
- voltmeter for voltage measurements.
We solder banks
Soldering should be done by spot welding using a regular aspirin tablet. It is impossible to solder one element directly to another: any heating causes evaporation of the electrolyte and a rise in temperature, which can be critical for the battery.
When disassembling the bundle and soldering, it is important not to lose metal particles, which may be indispensable when soldering the elements together. To be on the safe side, you can take care in advance of how to make blanks of spare plates from bending metal. It is important to remember the following: the better I solder, the better the battery will work.
Aspirin gives off a lot of corrosive fumes, so work in a well-ventilated area. A soft fusible composition with flowing properties is taken as a solder. The solder is sprinkled with aspirin powder, so it flows between the plates and connects them securely, and aspirin helps to fix the composition in the right place.
The assembled battery is installed in the case, and the operation of the screwdriver is checked. If the tool is running, the newly assembled battery is charged as usual and its functionality is checked again. If no drop in RPM is observed for the instrument, this means that the experiment was successful. Since nickel-cadmium batteries work for a long time with proper operation, there is a chance that a new bundle assembled with your own hands will not let you down, and a self-made screwdriver battery will work properly.
We disassemble the battery with a spatula or a clerical knife
For those who are not used to working with a mallet and want to make the battery disassembly process look quieter and more gentle, you can suggest using a small metal spatula or a utility knife. The main thing is that they do not have sharp edges, like a large screwdriver, which can easily damage plastic.
First, you should completely walk with a knife around the perimeter of the entire block in order to loosen the seam, and only after that, with a small screwdriver, you can begin to “pick out” the flexible plastic. The method is no less painstaking than the first, and if the person is not experienced enough, damage may remain on the plastic case. However, if you work as carefully as possible, it is possible to do without “losses” and in this case.
If, when disassembling the battery pack, you still have cracks or other damage, you should not be upset, because this type of plastic lends itself well to gluing with dichloroethane.
We measure the voltage
Before measuring the voltage of the cells, prepare a simple pencil with which you will write down the value of U issued by each battery in the bundle. Since in most cases “running” screwdrivers are equipped with nickel-cadmium batteries packed in dense cardboard layers, it is important to ensure that the batteries are accessible from both sides.
Now it remains to turn on the voltmeter (or multimeter) and start measuring. When measuring, we make each battery an exposure for five seconds and see if the voltage drops (usually it is normally about 1.2 volts for each battery separately). We fix the indicators with a pencil. It is impossible to keep the probes on batteries for a long time, because the resistance increases, and they can simply burn out.
Practice shows that one has only to fail one element from the entire bundle, this negatively affects the operation of all batteries. If the voltage indicator on any “bank” is 1 volt or less, it has already exhausted its resource. In order to finally make sure of this, you should check the self-discharge level of each battery in the bundle.
Repeated measurements are taken after 15 minutes. When measuring, be sure to check the primary U values with repeated ones. If it turns out that there are batteries, the voltage of which after the initial measurements dropped sharply during the second measurement, it means that they have a high self-discharge, and it is these elements that have already completely become unusable.
After the unusable elements are “calculated”, we disconnect them from the rest with a scalpel, and in their place we put usable batteries from a spare battery. So we redo the whole block, collecting one full-fledged from two.
What is the load for?
Let’s work with the load resistance. As already mentioned, you can take two, each with a nominal value of 1 ohm. If we put both of them in parallel, then the total resistance we get 0.5 Ohm. It is not necessary to adhere to these ratings, but the lower the resistance, the better.
What is the role of load resistors in qualitatively replacing the battery pack? If we take any electrical appliance and measure the voltage in its battery, we get a certain value. However, this value does not show how well a particular battery can give up its energy. If we measure the voltage under load, we will have what is called “voltage drop”. It is just from it that you can judge how good or bad the battery is.
The load resistance in the form of two small metal blanks and wires connected in parallel to each other is carefully connected to a voltmeter. This loading method is acceptable only if the output voltage of your battery is 12 volts or less (safe voltage level).
The wires are neatly fixed in the “sockets” of the voltmeter with probes, and a constant voltage threshold of 20 volts is set on the voltmeter. This indicator is quite enough to measure U for the entire bunch of elements as a whole and for each element separately, which is especially important.
Charging the batteries
Before disassembling the blocks, be sure to charge them well. With subsequent voltage measurements, this is exactly what will make it possible to understand which batteries are “live” and which are not. Before charging the batteries, it is recommended to clean the internal contacts of the charger with emery paper, because any contact resistance can “give out” an incorrect charging process.
When you charge both batteries alternately, pay attention to how fast they charge. If the battery is charged quickly, and the charge indicator signals the end of the process after just a few minutes, this means that there are definitely faulty cells in the battery. And of course, when the battery charges too slowly, or does not take current at all, it should definitely be disassembled and “tested” all the batteries that are inside. Read more about the charging time of the screwdriver battery →
After you charge and disassemble your battery pack, you will see that there are several elements inside it. cans. The number may vary depending on the voltage level of your instrument. Banks are connected in a certain series. Inside there is a thermal sensor brought out to the contact plates.
If the signal from the temperature sensor going to the charger is incorrect, then the battery will receive either an undercharge or an overcharge. Both are highly undesirable for the battery and adversely affect its performance. This is why it is strongly recommended to clean the contacts before charging both batteries.
How to disassemble and remake a battery from a screwdriver with your own hands
Everyone knows that the battery of a screwdriver sooner or later begins to lose its former performance and needs to be replaced. Usually only a couple of elements in a common bundle “sit down”, but this negatively affects the entire battery. Therefore, it becomes necessary to either replace several elements with new ones, or still change the battery pack completely. Since the complete set of any screwdriver. “Hitachi”, “Makita” and other models. includes two batteries, if you wish, you can try to assemble a whole homemade battery from two. The owners of power tools, who use them constantly, sooner or later begin to wonder how to convert the battery of a screwdriver to lithium. As for the newcomers, who were puzzled by this goal for the first time, they first of all have a question about how to disassemble the battery from the Makita screwdriver or any other, so as not to damage the fragile plastic box.
Experienced electronics enthusiasts assemble different types of batteries, including power supplies for an uninterruptible power supply (UPS). This is much more difficult than disassembling the battery of an electric drill. Any drill is often produced with so-called “non-separable” battery packs, which are either firmly sealed with tape around the perimeter, or their two parts fit so tightly to each other that, at first glance, it is impossible to disconnect them without causing forced external damage. However, among the craftsmen you can find people who have already thoroughly “got their hands on” with such batteries and can happily share their secrets with everyone.
- How to disassemble a battery using a regular mallet
- We disassemble the battery with a spatula or a clerical knife
- How to assemble one battery from two
- Charging the batteries
- What is the load for?
- We measure the voltage
- We solder banks
- A little about how to convert a battery from cadmium to lithium and who needs it
How to disassemble a screwdriver: cartridge, battery
Innovative technologies in construction are developing every day, it is no longer a secret that a screwdriver is an indispensable assistant for both an experienced specialist and a novice craftsman. Thanks to him, you can easily tighten all kinds of screws and self-tapping screws when assembling furniture structures, as well as when repairing equipment and living quarters.
- How to remove a chuck from a screwdriver
- How to revive a screwdriver battery
- Repair of the gearbox and screwdriver button
- How to change the chuck for a drill
The fact that any equipment fails over time is no longer news to us, so it becomes possible to disassemble the screwdriver and try to fix it with your own hands. But only without fanaticism, be careful when disassembling, especially such models as: interskol yes 12er 01, interskol yes 18er.
How a screwdriver works?
What problems can you fix at home? How to recognize this or that breakdown? To give specific answers to the questions asked, let’s first understand the internal mechanism of the tool. The main protruding element is the power button. Used to start the device and to change the speed, direction of rotation of the working part. the chuck.
The setting of the revolutions is carried out thanks to an electronic device based on a transistor. The RPM is directly proportional to the force at which the button is pressed. The reverse is started by replacing the polarity of the electric current at the terminals. Traditionally, the screwdriver is equipped with single-phase collector-type motors that operate on continuous current. The motor includes a body, magnets, anchor and brushes.
Rotation from the motor goes to the gearbox. Further, it converts high engine speeds into low cycles on the shaft, a cartridge with active bits is fixed in it. The gearbox can be used classic, as on a conventional drill, including planetary. Recently, the classic gearbox is almost never used, so we will not stop and go further. The planetary gear includes:
- Ring gear
- Sun gear mounted directly on the motor shaft
- two or three carriers
Then comes the force stabilizer with sixteen positions. These positions give a specific voltage to the self-tapping screw, so as not to spoil the material with which they are attached. The last component is the cartridge.
How the cartridge is disassembled
If the fixation of the cartridge is conical, then it is removed simply. by gentle blows with a hammer on the block body. If the fastener is threaded, the following steps are required:
- In the clockwise direction, unscrew the screw with a left-hand thread.
- We squeeze the hexagon in a vice, put the key on it and hit it with a hammer. Likewise, the chuck should move from its original position. You can choose another option:
- Place the screwdriver on a flat surface such as a table.
- Turn it on.
- Observe if the cartridge has moved off the table. when hitting a hexagon.
It also happens that all of the above methods do not work, and then one thing remains. to disassemble the screwdriver, after which:
- Remove the gearbox and spindle;
- Place the assembly in the vise clamps;
- Take the pipe wrench and then detach the chuck.
And if debris is found in the gearbox, then you need to do so.
How to disassemble Makita electric battery drill
How to disassemble a screwdriver in general
Let’s analyze the disassembly, an example is a Makita screwdriver:
- We remove the block housing where the battery is located.
- We remove the screws that join the two halves of the case with a Phillips screwdriver.
- We take out everything that is contained inside the tool body.
- Disconnect the reverse button.
- Dismantle the speed switch.
- Disconnect the engine and gearbox.
How to disassemble the battery
- Detach the screws at the bottom of the box.
- Open the box.
- Check and reject components.
- Replace and reassemble.
The mounting screws on the underside can vary from four to six. Often unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver. The screws are available in various lengths. This must be taken into account so as not to confuse them during assembly. On some modifications, you can find a non-separable case. Then examine the entire surface and find a special strip along which the factory gluing passes. Next, you need to take a strong knife and insert it into the groove, slightly shaking it to the sides. If the case broke into the upper and lower parts, the autopsy was successful. Not a problem if it happens past the groove. All discrepancies can be glued with good superglue. The upper part of the case contains several parts for the battery. On each of these components, the voltage is measured, which must certainly be in the range of the optimal level. If the difference is more than 10%, such a battery needs to be replaced.
Each manufacturer strives to create a tool that will be as convenient as possible in the workflow, creating an extensive range of models. from basic screwdrivers to professional samples.
Hitachi screwdrivers prioritize excellent build quality as well as the practicality of their tools. The Bosch cordless screwdriver collection is virtually indistinguishable from its brethren, which have a 220V cord. Equipped with mode switches, a shutdown button and an accelerator option, Bosch screwdrivers are an excellent solution for home and professional use. In addition, such brands as Interskol, Makita, Cmi, Zubr have proven themselves to be excellent.
How to disassemble a screwdriver
Screwdriver. it is the only technique that ideally combines compactness, energy independence and high functionality. A wide range of tasks can be done with just one small tool. from simple tightening of self-tapping screws and creating holes in soft materials to complex precision work in a large volume.
Compared to other devices of this type, the screwdriver has gained great popularity not only among people involved in construction and repair, but also among home craftsmen. Therefore, he can be safely compared with a man, if he is, then your shelves will be well fixed, pictures are hung, and furniture is securely assembled.
However, despite its many positive qualities, situations may arise when it is necessary to completely disassemble the product in order to change the lubricant or replace worn and defective parts. Of course, the right decision in this situation would be to visit a service center. But when there is no time for this or the warranty period has long expired, there is only one way out. to restore its performance on your own.
How to properly disassemble a screwdriver
All products are outwardly similar to each other. The design has a characteristic pistol shape, the body is made of durable shockproof plastic, and a keyless chuck is used to attach the working equipment.
Before you start disassembling the tool, you need to study its main components in detail. Since the most popular is battery-powered technology, we will consider it.
The internal filling of the device consists of:
Regulator of revolutions
Step-by-step instructions for complete disassembly of the screwdriver:
Disconnect the battery pack.
Use a Phillips screwdriver of the correct size to remove the screws that are around the perimeter of the entire case.
Unscrew the screws and detach the case without sudden movements, holding small structural elements.
Pay attention to the speed switch, start and reverse buttons. In order to avoid breakage of these small parts, it is recommended to carefully disconnect them.
To get the gearbox in your hands, release it together with the engine from the second half of the case, hold it in your hands and turn it counterclockwise.
It consists of interconnected cogwheels and gears. All small components of the mechanism are compactly placed in a rigid plastic case (crankcase). They are reliably protected from the ingress of foreign objects and work according to the principle of a single ensemble.
Depending on the type, the reducer can be planetary and classical. Since the second is practically not used anymore, we will consider the design of the planetary mechanism, as well as the principle of its operation.
The gearbox design includes the following components:
Ring gear, which is in the center of the mechanism.
Driven gear (carrier). It reliably fixes the axles of several planetary gears “satellites” located relative to each other. They have the same diameter and engage with the teeth on the inner surface of the “cogwheel”. Construction parts can be plastic or metal.
Gearbox for screwdriver with two-stroke motor
Depending on the number of gears, the reducer can be single-stage or multi-stage. The most common are the mechanisms consisting of two gears (two-stage). Their principle of operation consists in the rotation of the satellites, which are driven by the circular motion of the ring gear of the engine. The use of such a mechanism allows you to make the speed of the carrier an order of magnitude lower than the speed of the motor.
The sequence of actions is as follows: the rotational movements of the first carrier are transferred to the second, which in turn is connected to the chuck shaft. The transmission takes place through the central gear. The stellite trinity of the second block works on the same principle as the first, as a result. the second carrier gets even lower revs. This action is typical for a two-stage gearbox. In the case of the three-stage, another planetary gear is added.
Disconnect the gearbox from the electric motor using the method described above.
Remove the plate and start taking out all the parts in order.
Unscrew the screws connecting the two halves of the gearbox.
If necessary, use pliers to adjust the spring diameter downwards, this will improve the engagement of the first gear.
Clean and lubricate the main components.
Assemble the entire mechanism, performing all the steps in reverse order.
It is worth noting that the reducer. this is a mechanism that is practically impossible to repair. The components of this mechanism are not produced by manufacturers. If the wires can be soldered, and the button replaced, then in the case of teeth and gears, only one way will be correct. complete replacement of this node.
How to remove a chuck from a screwdriver
A keyless chuck is used in the screwdriver, which is the most loaded, and therefore the most wearing part of the entire mechanism. It can be fixed by the following method:
Morse taper. the chuck has the same tapered bore as the shank.
2. Threaded method. the chuck is screwed onto the threaded end of the shaft.
3. Screw method. the chuck is secured with a fixing screw.
To determine which connection method is used in your tool, you need to inspect it and pay attention to the digital markings on the side of it. If you see the inscription 1-6 B10, then the Morse taper is used in the design of the cartridge. The figures indicated show that the maximum and minimum diameter of the drill shank that can be clamped into the chuck is 1.6 mm. B 10.Morse taper size.
The threaded connection can be metric and inch. In the first case, it will look like. 1.0-11 M12x1.25. In the second. 2-13 mm ½-20 UNF.
Marking on the screwdriver chuck
Removing the cartridge
Threaded connection :
Unscrew the threaded fastener using the L-shaped hex key.
Place the key with its short edge into the chuck and clamp it tightly in the jaws of a vise.
Put the device in drilling mode and turn it on at low speed. The free edge of the key should hit a table or other hard object.
Unscrew the chuck by turning the key.
Threaded connection with fixing screw:
Open the inner jaws of the chuck.
Unscrew the left-hand screw connection clockwise with a screwdriver.
Take the L-shaped hex key and clamp it tightly in the chuck with the short edge.
Try to turn it sharply counterclockwise.
If the chuck does not come off, hit the edge of the wrench with a hammer. It should loosen and come off the thread easily.
To remove the chuck fixed by the conical method, a couple of careful blows with a hammer on the body are enough.
How to properly charge the battery
There are 3 main types of batteries used for screwdrivers: Li-Ion (lithium-ion), Ni-Cd (nickel-cadmium) and Ni-MH (nickel-metal hydride). Each of the options requires a different and precise adherence to the correct mode of operation.
Li-Ion. the most common battery. Its main advantages are small size, weight, fast charging and no memory effect. The downside is the fear of low temperatures. As for the price, compared to other types of batteries, it is an order of magnitude higher.
To start using the battery, it is enough to completely discharge it once and charge it to 100%. Then you can safely operate it without thinking about the amount of charge. The only caveat. charged storage. This is necessary so that the internal parts do not dry out (optimal mode. 60% charge).
Ni-Cd is also one of the most common types of batteries, with a large capacity and small size. The price is much cheaper in relation to other types of batteries. The main disadvantage. the presence of a memory effect. Before using such a power source, it is necessary to complete 3 complete discharge / charge cycles. Failure to do so could result in a significant drop in battery capacity.
Ni-MH is a less popular battery, the undoubted advantage of which is absolute environmental friendliness and lack of memorization. The only imperfection. high self-discharge current. That is, when it is idle for a long time, it is completely discharged, and each subsequent charge increases the self-discharge current. If you forget to charge such a battery, it will fail over time. Before using, the battery, like a lithium-ion one, must be immediately discharged and put on charge up to 100%.
Inside a Drill “repair”
And in conclusion
Based on this article, you can independently disassemble the screwdriver for the purpose of minor repairs, cleaning and lubricating the internal components. This should be done only if during the operation of the equipment you notice any interference, for example, speed modes do not switch or this happens with a certain delay. It is not recommended to use gears or couplings from other tools. Outwardly, they may look suitable, but in fact they do not correspond to the components of this model.
In order for the equipment to serve you as long as possible, and you do not have to disassemble it often, follow these simple rules:
- Do not operate the device at high speeds for a long time.
- Check how charged your battery is before use.
- The fit size of the nozzle must match the fit size of the tool.
- After changing the bit, make sure that the chuck is correctly locked.
Where to start?
Let’s take the tool apart. It consists of several main parts:
- Electrical engine;
- speed regulator;
- reverse movement device;
- attachment point for replaceable nozzles.
To disassemble the gearbox, it is necessary to make some simple manipulations: in the open screwdriver case, we disconnect the motor and gearbox, dismantle the plate; we extract the details; we unscrew the bolts fixing the constituent elements of this unit. To improve the start of the first gear, it is necessary to correct the diameter of the spring in the direction of its reduction. We begin to disassemble the coupling, remove the retaining ring, washers and bearing; remove the shaft.
To disassemble the motor, carefully remove the rotor from the stator, preventing damage to their winding.
Dismantling of individual components
How to disassemble a screwdriver
A modern cordless screwdriver is an indispensable home and work tool, which has long entered the rank of a must-have set for any self-respecting craftsman. It is useful to know and be able to quickly disassemble it to correct any malfunctions in the operation of the power tool, or simply to carry out preventive maintenance.
General dismantling of the tool
How to disassemble a screwdriver shows a diagram of the main actions using the example of a product from Interskol:
- Unscrew and disconnect the part of the case where the battery is located;
- Then, you need to unscrew the screws located around the perimeter, fixing the two parts of the main body;
- Remove the component parts from the body;
- Dismantle the reverse button, the start button, remove the speed level regulator;
- Disconnect motor and gearbox.
If there are problems with the battery, then you should think about the expediency of repair: most of the cost of the entire screwdriver (60-70%) is made up of the cost of the battery. If there are serious problems with this part of the tool, then buying a new product can be a more profitable measure than repairing a broken one. Otherwise, when there is an opportunity and desire to repair the battery pack, it should also be disassembled into its component parts. The battery compartment may not have fasteners, which means that the model is with a non-separable body, but even this option lends itself to dismantling:
- unscrew all fasteners on the body or remove the adhesive from the surfaces of the non-separable body and carefully separate the parts of the shell. It is recommended to do this with a knife, screwdriver or other similar tool, which must be inserted into the groove between the two parts of the case and separate the parts from each other with loosening movements;
- disconnect and take out the batteries;
- check and remove non-working elements.
Cartridge Removal Examples
Owners of Makita screwdrivers are usually faced with the need to remove a chuck that uses a threaded retention with an auxiliary screw fastening.
In such cases, it is necessary:
- unscrew the screw;
- activate the shaft stop button;
- wrap the screwdriver body with a thick cloth and fix it in a vice;
- clamp the hex key in the cams;
- hit the key with a hammer and unscrew the cylinder.
Bosh tools are also most often equipped with a locking screw.
To remove the chuck, it is not always necessary to clamp the screwdriver body in a vice.
In many cases, it is enough to put it on a table or other support, press the stopper button, remove the cartridge lock and the cylinder itself.
With models of other manufacturers, you need to do one of the described methods.
The sequence of actions in these cases is the same:
- we determine the fastening method;
- according to the scheme we remove the part.
How to determine the fastening method
Before figuring out how to remove the chuck from the screwdriver, you need to determine the fixing method.
According to GOST, there can be 9 standard sizes. from B7 to B45.
The number means the size of the cone.
The range of shank diameters of fasteners that are suitable for fastening in this screwdriver is indicated in millimeters.
Screwdriver chuck with threaded fastener has a different marking.
On domestic models, you can find the type designation 1.0-11 M12x1.25.
This is a metric label.
The numbers up to the letter indicate the allowable shank size, the rest. the thread size.
In foreign screwdrivers, the inch designation is used.
For instance. the part can be marked as follows: 2-13 mm ½-20 UNF.
Here the first digits are the bit diameter, the fraction is the thread diameter in inches, 20 is the number of threads in each inch.
How to remove a threaded chuck
Consider how to remove the chuck from a screwdriver, in which the cylinder is attached to the spindle using a thread.
- unscrew the threaded fastener using the L-shaped hexagon;
- insert a key (usually 10 mm) with a short part into the cylinder and securely fix with cams;
- at low speeds turn on and then turn off the screwdriver; in this case, the free part of the hexagon must hit the support.
As a result, the threaded retention will loosen and the clamping cylinder can be easily removed from the spindle.
If the mount is very strong and all three methods do not work, then the tool must be disassembled.
How to remove the sleeve in this case is described above.
Situations requiring the disassembly of a drill or screwdriver arise when preventive work is neglected. the planned removal and cleaning of the “clamp”.
In addition, it is recommended to rest the instrument at least every 15 minutes.
Then the repair can be postponed, and you can protect yourself from unnecessary difficulties with removing the clamping device.
There are three ways to attach the clamping cylinder to the spindle:
- using a thread;
- with a fixing screw;
- using a morse cone.
The first method involves the presence of threads on two touching parts.
The cylinder is screwed onto the shaft.
The screw is used as a reinforcement for the contact of the sleeve and the shaft.
In this case, screwing also takes place, but the fixing component serves for additional fastening.
The screw is usually characterized by a left-hand thread and the presence of a “cross” head.
To see the element, you need to move the cams as far as possible.
Morse taper. a variant that has been used for over a hundred years.
Shaft surface is tapered, similar to the chuck.
Matching parameters of both cones make it possible to reliably and quickly combine parts.
This option is used in many modern models (pneumatic, etc.).
An internal thread on the chuck or a special cone is designed for mounting on a shaft. Structurally, the most wear-resistant components are divided into three main types:
- quick-clamping (BZP);
- gear-girth (key).
The most common option is BZP.
In this case, the shank is clamped by manually rotating the tool sleeve.
Clamping elements, which are installed on modern screwdrivers and drills, allow you to reliably fix shanks with a diameter of 0.8-25 mm.
Perhaps the only drawback of a new product of this type is the higher cost relative to key sleeves.
It takes a few seconds to fix an element in a clamping device of the BZP type.
In this case, the help of auxiliary components is not required.
The adjustment sleeve is corrugated, so the cylinder can be rotated easily.
The pressure on the shank of the product is adjusted using a locking element.
Clamping parts wear out over time.
Therefore, the device of the cartridge of the BZP category implies a gradual weakening of the clamp.
Due to wear, the liner is unable to securely hold large diameter round shanks.
Disassembled self-clamping and quick-clamping models are:
- movable jaws;
- toothed nut.
How to remove a chuck from a screwdriver? Step by step instructions
How to remove a cartridge from a screwdriver, what it is and what they are, learn from this article.
The chuck for the screwdriver is one of the most mobile parts of the tool. Therefore, it wears out faster than many others.
To repair or replace this element, you need to know how to remove the chuck from the screwdriver.
To do this, you need to understand the types, device and methods of mounting cartridges.
Types of cartridges
Clamping devices of screwdrivers are divided into:
The first two types are similar.
The main difference lies in the fact that self-clamping models fix the products automatically.
If the tool has a lock, single-cylinder cylinders can be used.
In the absence of a blocker, you will have to use a two-clutch type.
Single sleeve elements can be clamped with one hand.
Other type requires both hands.
Quick and self-clamping models are mainly designed for modern tools.
For instance. for pneumatic screwdrivers.
Models with automatic clamping are convenient for those who have to quickly and frequently change different attachments.
Key options are less convenient, but more reliable. They grip better and withstand shock loads.
If the cylinder will be used in intensive mode, it is recommended to choose a screwdriver with a key.
How to remove and change the cartridge
It is necessary to understand how to remove the cartridge from a screwdriver even if the repair is not yet expected.
The procedure must be performed periodically for routine cleaning and lubrication.
This will increase the service life of the tool.
There are various ways to remove the clamping device.
The method depends on the manufacturer of the screwdriver and the specific type of model.
Below we will consider how to remove the “Bosch” and “Makita” cartridge.
Using the example of these brands, it will be possible to cope with the tools of other manufacturers. to remove the cartridge “Interskol”, “Metabo”, “Devolt”, “Zubr”, etc.
It must be remembered that we remove the cartridge only from the cooled tool.
It will be more difficult to remove the heated element correctly, since for a long time rotating parts are firmly fixed in the socket.
First, let’s look at how to unscrew the chuck with the fixing screw.
To do this, you need a hexagon of the appropriate size.
A diagram describing how to change the cartridge with this mounting method:
- unscrew the screw clockwise (if the part has a left-hand thread); for this, the cams are opened to the maximum;
- insert the key into the cams and turn it sharply counterclockwise; for this, you can use help. for example, a hammer;
- unscrew the cartridge.
Next, how to replace a cartridge with a different type of mount.
Malfunctions of the Makita screwdriver
The most frequent breakdowns of a Makita screwdriver are as follows:
- The screwdriver does not turn on. Here and so everything is clear. The first step is to inspect the battery, as well as contacts and connections in the case, wiring. A multimeter will help you to check.
- The reverse button does not work. This means that you cannot either tighten or remove screws and bolts. Here you have to check the resistance of the button with a multimeter by placing probes on the input and output wires of the button.
- The speed regulator does not work. In this case, the revolutions will either be constantly lowered or constantly overestimated. The regulating transistor or brushes may be to blame here. Visual inspection of parts required.
Brushes for the Makita screwdriver
The brushes used for the screwdriver are graphite-based. Their cost today varies between 2–5 USD. e. They are located in the motor housing and are two graphite cubes fixed on metal plates. With intensive work, they wear out and wear out.
For DIY repairs, you can file them out of brushes from another tool, such as a car starter, with a file. After grooving, they should be inserted into the brush holder and put in place by assembling the motor.
Description, general information
Makita screwdrivers are very powerful. The average stroke rate for various models is about 2300 rpm, which is a good indicator compared to other brands. The weight of most models of tools is within 1.5 kg. Its small mass means that it will be comfortable to work with such a tool. The manufacturer also took care of the convenience of working in poorly lit rooms, making LED backlighting for most models. Separately, it is worth highlighting the type of handle for holding these tools on the weight. As a rule, they are made rubberized, and therefore it is convenient to hold them in a brush, respectively, the work process is much easier.
The disadvantage of these screwdrivers is the strong vibration of the handle during operation, as well as their short-lived batteries. In addition, the price for the products of this company is quite high, which is important for the domestic consumer.
The diagram shows:
- Shift lever
- Body assembly
- Reverse shift lever
- Start button
- Contact terminal
- Keyless chuck
- Gearbox assembly
- Electric motor
- Body assembly
- Charging unit
A modern screwdriver is a high-tech device. Important structural elements:
- Removable battery
- Rubberized handle grip
- Powerful electric motor
- Metal planetary gearbox
- Soft start button
- Reverse switch button
- Torque regulator
These are the main components of the screwdriver design, which are included in the basic package of any screwdriver model.
“Makita” screwdriver battery repair
When repairing the battery with a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screws that secure the case. There are several cans inside the case. Visual inspection should be used to inspect them and identify abnormalities in geometry such as bulging, for example. We test the banks with a multimeter for residual charge. If it is absent, the bank is replaced with a new one.
Repair of the chuck and other parts of the Makita screwdriver
In this article, we will consider a screwdriver from the well-known Makita brand, describe its technical characteristics and general device, talk about the main problems and malfunctions that arise during the operation of the tool, as well as how to diagnose a breakdown and repair one or another element with your own hands. screwdriver.
Repair of the charger of the Makita screwdriver
When repairing the charger, it is necessary to loosen the screws securing the housing covers. Inside there is a printed circuit board with contacts. First you need to check the transformer with a tester. To do this, you need to measure the output voltage. Then you should ring the cable to exclude its fracture. Then the primary and secondary windings of the transformer and the fuse are checked. You need to collect it in the reverse order.