How to disassemble the Stihl trimmer head
How to remove the spool from the Stihl trimmer
Stihl’s garden equipment has long established itself on the agricultural market. Electric trimmers of this company are distinguished by quality, reliability, stable operation even under high load. The Stihl electric kos lineup is easy to use and easy to maintain. This gives an excellent opportunity to use the technique even for a beginner.
Cordless lawn mower
Ideal for those who do not want to breathe gasoline exhaust, and also depend on electricity. The machine consists of a sturdy polymer body and a compact grass catcher. The volume of the grass catcher depends on the model.
Such devices are silent, reliable and safe to use.
The length is 165 cm. The current is 8 A. Ideal for mowing in a small area.
Convenient device for mowing a lawn, a flower bed, a fence, etc. The engine is quiet enough, there is no exhaust gas.
Line does not lengthen automatically
Option 1. a bite has occurred, i.e. clamping the cord between turns. This problem usually occurs if the user has been winding the line on the reel unevenly, with intersecting turns, or winding it with insufficient tension. In the latter case, when the mowing head rotates at high speeds under the influence of centrifugal force, the cord begins to tighten, as a result of which inter-turn clamping of the fishing line is possible. To fix the problem, you will have to disassemble the coil on the trimmer and rewind the cord correctly, that is, in even turns with good tension.
Option 2. too short ends protrude from the head. The line may not come out when hitting the ground if the ends sticking out of the head are not long enough (short). In this case, the centrifugal force is not enough to stretch the line. Therefore, it is required to stop the unit (turn off the engine or disconnect the trimmer from the mains) and pull out the line manually, after pressing the button.
Option 3. the line is brazed inside the mowing head. This causes the coil to lock and not spin when the button is pressed. Basically, this happens for several reasons: poor quality of the cord, overheating of the coil during prolonged operation of the unit, hitting the line against hard objects.
- In the first case, third-party cord can be made of low-quality and low-melting materials that cannot withstand mechanical and thermal stress. Therefore, you should give preference to “branded” lines.
- But, if you nevertheless purchased a fishing line of unknown quality, and it is often soldered during operation, then you can follow the example of some users who, after filling the cord into the reel, wet it with either silicone grease (from a can) or mineral oil. This procedure greatly reduces the likelihood of soldering the turns of the fishing line together.
- Also, the line can be soldered if it hits a hard object (stone, fence, dry branch, etc.) during mowing. As a result, it stretches slightly and is pulled back into the head at high speed. From friction, the cord heats up, and its turns stick together. The only thing that can be done to eliminate this malfunction is to open the trimmer spool and rewind the line.
The mechanism is hinged, due to which the device tilts in different directions. The cutter spool can be positioned perpendicular to the ground. There are no ventilation slots, which protects the device from water ingress, so the grass can be mowed in the early morning (when there is dew) or immediately after rain.
How to change the head on a Stihl weed trimmer
Electric version of the scythe
The self-propelled form of these units can be used anywhere, but only next to the power supply. Quiet, they are often used near schools, kindergartens, as well as hospitals and clinics. They are quite actively used on private territory.
The models are easy to operate, have a low noise level, high reliability, and also an affordable price.
Mows grass up to 36 cm. Speed up to 7400 rpm. The power is 540 W. The body is plastic. Telescopic handle. Inexpensive but practical tool.
Dismantling the clutch and oil pump drive
Before disassembling the clutch, the drive sprocket must be removed. To do this, carefully remove the lock washer from the grooves on the shaft and remove the sprocket and needle bearing.
With a high head 19, it is necessary to unscrew the clutch. The thread on it is left-handed, so it unscrews towards the tire, and not the back of the Stihl 180 saw.
Having untwisted and removed the clutch, you need to immediately remove the reflective plate and the oil pump drive, this is easy to do, because they are put on the shaft without any fastening.
Removing the starter
At the next stage, the upper case cover is removed and the 4 starter mounting screws are loosened, after which it is necessary to remove the oil tank and fuel barrel covers. The starter is removed quite simply and there should be no problems.
After removing the starter, the opened inner cavity of the chainsaw must be cleaned, since usually there is a large amount of compressed small sawdust on the body under the starter.
Carburetor, muffler and ignition coil
To remove the carburetor, you must have a head 8 and an extension, with which it is convenient to unscrew the nuts securing the carburetor and air filter. Before dismantling the carburetor, it is necessary to disconnect the ignition wire and the choke rod from the engine control lever and remove the lever, only after that the air filter and carburetor are removed.
The Stihl 180 muffler is attached with two nuts, by unscrewing which you need to pull it towards you, it can be easily removed.
The coil is mounted on two screws, to remove you just need to unscrew them.
HOW-TO. Stihl String Trimmer Head Replacement
Removing the flywheel
The flywheel of the Stihl 180 chainsaw is twisted with great effort, so a head with a metal knob is required to remove it. The nut holding the flywheel is unscrewed by the head by 13.
To block the crankshaft from turning, you need to unscrew the spark plug and install the piston stopper through the spark plug hole, if it is not there, you can use the old cord from the starter, with knots tied to it and immersed in the cylinder through the spark plug hole.
It is strictly forbidden to keep the flywheel from turning by installing a power screwdriver and other tools between its ribs and the body, with this method of blocking from turning, the flywheel blades are not able to withstand the load and break off.
After the piston is locked in the cylinder, you can unscrew the flywheel nut. The thread in the nut is ordinary, so you need to turn it to the left. Having loosened the nut, you do not need to remove it to the end, it is enough to unscrew it until its upper edge is equal to the tip of the shaft, after which a soft metal drift is installed on the nut and a sharp blow is made on it. Thus, the flywheel from a sharp impact jumps off the shaft and can be easily removed without the help of additional tools.
Removing and disassembling the engine
The engine is held in place by 4 screws installed on the bottom of the Stihl 180 chainsaw. To remove them, unscrew them, then carefully remove the engine from the seat and the rubber pipe of the carburetor.
To disassemble the engine, 4 crankcase screws are unscrewed, and it is removed, then you can remove the crankshaft assembly with oil seals, bearings and piston rings.
Removing bearings and seals usually does not require additional tools, but if the bearings were pressed onto the shaft with force, then a special puller will be needed for dismantling.
To remove the piston from the connecting rod, you will need to remove the retaining ring from the seat using a thin screwdriver, then the piston pin is squeezed out from the opposite side, after which the piston is retracted to the side.
Disassembly and assembly of Stihl МС 180
Stihl MS 180 is a reliable and unpretentious tool, but sometimes it requires repair, like any technique. In this article, we will consider how the Stihl MS 180 chainsaw is disassembled, which is necessary in the event of an engine overhaul.
- Preparatory stage
- Removing the handle
- Removing the starter
- Removing the flywheel
- Dismantling the clutch and oil pump drive
- Carburetor, muffler and ignition coil
- Removing and disassembling the engine
- Assembling the Stihl 180 chainsaw
Removing the handle
Direct disassembly of the Stihl 180 begins with the removal of the handle, which is attached to the body of the chainsaw using three rubber shock absorbers. To remove, it is necessary to remove the plastic plugs from the inner cavity of the shock absorbers, then, using a powerful screwdriver, first squeeze out the upper shock absorber, then the one closer to the rear handle.
At the back of the handle there is a throttle trigger, which is connected to the carburetor through a wire rod, in order to disconnect the throttle trigger from the throttle trigger, it is necessary to unscrew two screws and disassemble the handle.
When the handle remains on one shock absorber, it is necessary to unscrew the body of the chainsaw from the inside of the handle and bend it to the side, remove the body from the last rubber band.
The repair of any equipment should begin with the preparatory work, and the Stihl 180 saw is no exception. At the preparatory stage, before the Stihl 180 chainsaw is disassembled, it is necessary to remove the side cover, chain and tire from the chainsaw. Further, using a compressor and a brush, you need to clean the chainsaw from dirt, sawdust, oil drips and other things.
When cleaning the saw, pay special attention to the place where the chain saw drive sprocket is located, since this is the most polluted area.
In places with a large accumulation of oil, can be washed with clean gasoline.
How to repair a trimmer coil. master class
From the body of the clamping nut, the boot protection cap was wiped off and the boot itself fell out. The guide splines are clogged with grass and soil. Soaking and turning the bobbin by hand does not help.
I really wanted to save money.
How to do something yourself, with your own hands. home master’s site
With your own hands. How to do it yourself
Repair of the trimmer head on the example of STIHL FS38
The coil is worn out from long work.
The first renovation project is to solder a new extension cap made of nylon or plastic.
He took a strip of sheet metal, clamped it in a yew and heated it with a flame of a gas burner. Then I applied both the lawn mower head part and the thick plastic washer on both sides. After 2 seconds, he squeezed them together and allowed to cool. Not soldered. Some cunning American plastic turned out to be. It does not combine with our polyethylene, polystyrene, polycarbonate.
I retreated to my previous positions and re-examined the pressure mechanism. Found enough clearance for a second renovation project.
From an old wind instrument, I cut a piece of brass tube 25 mm long with an inner diameter of 27 mm. I cleaned the ends with emery and a file.
Then, with light hammer blows, he pressed the tube onto the plastic housing of the push mechanism sleeve.
From a birch stick, I cut a cork 10 mm long with an outer diameter of 27 mm. and also pressed it into the brass tube from above, all the way into the sleeve.
To fix the structure, with a sharp core, he punched the tube in a circle along the plastic and with a hammer pressed the edge against a wooden plug.
To keep the native boot in the bobbin, it was necessary to clamp it in the chuck of the lathe and use a cutter to make a groove under the retaining ring 1 mm deep and 2 mm wide.
I bent the retaining ring itself on the trim of the water pipe from the bicycle spoke and bit off the excess in place.
After simple repairs, I installed the head on the lawn mower, put on the boot, tucked in the line and went out into the garden for testing. Everything works! Well! I pressed the updated ledge. the line was lengthened. After mowing, the boot remained in place. Slotted surfaces are not clogged with grass and earth.
The successful solution was re-implemented within the next hour on a second worn-out wear head. Now I have a spare!
If you look carefully at the attached drawings, you can guess to carve a combined prosthesis “tube plus cork” from a bronze blank.
Or even with a protective dust cap. Then a groove with a retaining ring is not needed.
Head types by line threading method
In addition to the difference in the feeding algorithm, the trimmer spools are divided among themselves according to the method of threading the cutting line.
The following types of attachments are found on the market:
- “Fast”. these reels do not need to be removed from the trimmer. To thread the cutting line into the head, the operator needs to pull its end into a special hole in the side of the nozzle, and wrap the line several times around the central axis of the head. At the end, the opposite end of the cord will need to be cut and continue mowing;
- collapsible. to refill the line, the user needs to remove the reel from the trimmer and disassemble it. After that, wind up the cutting line, assemble the attachment and put it back on the mower.
Often on the market you can find semi-automatic reels, the factory device of which includes a body, a pair of built-in parts and a spool. The built-in parts are equipped with springs, and the spools themselves can be one- or two-piece. In single-section spools, the line is wound evenly on each side. In two-section, each of the ends of the cutting cord is wound from the corresponding side. This type of attachments is considered to be the most practical and convenient to use, since the cutting line inside them never gets confused.
The design of a single-section spool assumes the possibility of its own revision. To convert it into a two-section one, the user will need a strong metal plate on which to measure the diameter of the existing spool and cut the workpiece along the applied contour. To get the thickness, you need to measure the place where the cutting cord is wound. In this case, you must make sure that nothing interferes with the rotation of the circle. After that, you will not need to make a small incision and put it on the spool. It is better to choose Moment glue or special adhesive tape for fastening the ring. As a result, the manufacturer will have a homemade two-piece trimmer head. which can be installed on different models of lawn mowers.
Types and features of trimmer spools
The device of a household lawn mower begins with its working body, the role of which is most often played by a trimmer coil.
There are 3 types of heads on the market that differ from each other in the method of feeding the cutting line:
- automatic reels. in nozzles of this type, the cord is fed when the lawn mowers speed up when the engine is running. At the same time, the operator himself does not take part in lengthening the line. this happens in a fully automatic mode. Automatic heads are the most convenient to use and are most often used by gardeners caring for large areas. Among the disadvantages of these attachments, experienced users point out frequent breakdowns of the device and the highest cost among all types of trimmer coils;
- semi-automatic heads. attachments of this type work on a rather simple principle: to feed the cutting line, the reel must rest against the surface of the ground. By simultaneously pressing a special button, the built-in anchor mechanism is activated. as a result, centrifugal forces arise, under which the line is lengthened and the operator can continue to work on the site. A certain skill is required from the operator to operate these attachments;
- hand reels. in the design of these heads, the cutting line is mechanically lengthened. Accordingly, the operator must shut off the mowers engine and manually pull the line out to feed the line. Despite the inconvenience during operation, it is this type of coil that is recognized as the most reliable and popular among gardeners.
In addition to the listed types of mowing heads, there are universal attachments on sale. They can be installed on any model of a household trimmer, regardless of its original equipment and purpose. The universal head stands out for its high reliability and does not require frequent repairs.
Trimmer coils. types and features
The efficiency and performance of a household trimmer in an area largely depends on the quality of the line. It is located in the spool, or, as it is also called, the trimmer head. Manufacturers produce different types of coils. Each of them stands out for its design features and individual operating principle. Having studied them in detail, it will be easier for the gardener to choose exactly the head that is suitable for specific operating conditions.
TOP 4 reels for lawn mowers
Among experienced gardeners, the following trimmer head models are the most popular:
- Bosch K103 is a universal trimmer reel. weighing 300 g and a height of 6.7 mm. Most often it is installed on lawn mowers of the Makita and Hyundai brands. Inside the nozzle, a cutting cord of increased strength is provided, which easily cuts weeds up to 5 mm thick. Among the advantages of this mowing head, users highlight the relatively low cord consumption. The extension of the line in this attachment is done automatically. The coil is designed with a reliable steel core, so it rarely fails. The body of the nozzle is made of shock-resistant plastic;
- standard trimmer head Efco 3060. this mowing reel stands out for its availability and good factory quality. The extension of the line in its basic device is carried out in a semi-automatic mode. The standard fixing diameter of the nozzle is 6.6 mm. The coil design is equipped with a threaded adapter. Inside the head there is a strong cutting line that successfully tackles weeds up to 3 mm thick. Most often this reel is installed on trimmers of the brands Efco, Hyundai and Intertool;
- Flymo 15. This mowing head is recognized by many gardeners as the best in the class of universal accessories. The scope of delivery of the reel includes an adapter that allows it to be installed on many models of lawn mowers. The extension of the cutting line in this attachment is carried out in a semi-automatic mode. Head body height is 7.4 cm.
The Efco 8100 reel is no less popular on the market. All parts of this attachment are made of steel, and the body is made of durable shock-resistant plastic. Inside the head there is a fishing line with a diameter of 1.3 mm. This allows the reel to be used for cutting weeds up to 5mm thick.