How To Dissolve The Board With Manual Circular Video

How to fix a floorboard correctly with self-tapping screws How to fix a floorboard: self-tapping screws, how to lay, how to lay, flooring, fasteners, how to lay the plank on the floor correctly, and

Special screws for floorboards

Professional craftsmen use special floorboard screws to fix the floorboards. The use of such fastening material allows you to obtain a securely fixed and with a fairly long service life of the floor covering.

How To Dissolve The Board With Manual Circular Video

Special screws for floorboards have the following features:

  • These fasteners are available in various sizes. The standard section is 3.5 mm, the length can be 35, 40, 45 and 50 mm. The size of the screw is selected depending on the thickness of the floorboards.
  • This floorboard fastener does not corrode as it has a protective coating.
  • There is a cutter at the end of the self-tapping screw, which allows it to be screwed into the wood without preliminary drilling. In addition, such a structure allows the screw to enter more tightly, which means that the fixation of the floorboards to the base of the floor will be more durable.
  • The self-tapping screw has a special milling cut. It has such an angle that the fastening element easily enters the wood without splitting.
  • Self-tapping screws for floorboards have another structural feature, which is the absence of a thread in the upper part. This design allows the flooring to fit more closely to the base.

Glue method

If the floorboard will be laid on a solid base, then it can be fixed with glue. To do this, the grooves of the boards are coated with an adhesive, you can use ordinary PVA glue, and then they are pushed onto the tongue of the previous row.

Methods for fixing the floorboard

The floor covering is experiencing quite serious loads, so it is necessary to approach the choice of the fastening method with all responsibility. If some of the floorboards are not secured well enough, they will begin to loosen over time.

This usually happens after a short period of time. The floorboards move, the initially flat floor begins to emit an unpleasant creaking sound, and often it simply collapses.

There are several of the most common ways to attach floorboards:

  • Secret method, that is, the use of screws or nails;
  • With glue;
  • Fastening with clips.

Next, consider how the floorboards are fastened in each of the ways.

Clamping

Some types of boards come with special clips that fit into the slot on the inside of them. These elements are designed to connect the boards to each other. So how do you lay the floorboard using this mounting method?

To do this, you should adhere to the following technology:

  • A waterproofing material is laid on the rough floor, which should be fixed against the walls with construction tape.
  • Clips should be driven into the slots of the boards laid in the first row with a hammer. This is done in the direction of the tongue.
  • The ends of the strips are coated with glue, and then the first row is laid.
  • Wedges about 1 cm thick should be inserted between the wall and the boards.
  • Clips are also attached to the second row of boards. The floorboards are locked in place by gently tapping with a hammer across the block along the edges of the row.
  • The rest of the rows are stacked similarly.
  • Then the wedges are removed between the wall and the covering.
  • Skirting boards are being installed.

Fixing the floorboards with nails

In this case, the floorboard is fastened to a wooden base, which can be solid or made of logs. Initially, the width of the floorboard is taken into account, which is important.

Next, we will tell you how to lay a floorboard using this mounting method.

The first row of floorboards is fixed with nails, which are driven into the base at an angle of 45 through the comb. Then they are driven into place. Pre-drill holes for fasteners. This is to avoid damaging the combs.

When fitting the next row, the nails must be hidden. All subsequent rows of boards are fixed by driving nails across the surface.

How to fix a floorboard correctly with self-tapping screws

When equipping the floors in the house, in addition to choosing the type of floor covering, it is necessary to be especially careful when choosing the method of fixing the purchased material. For any building material, their own fastening methods are used, including for floorboards. Let’s consider how to fix the floorboard using the most reliable and popular methods.

How to dissolve a board with a hand circular

Sawing boards by hand takes a lot of time and effort. It is recommended to use a hand-held circular saw to reduce costs. Let’s talk about this in detail.

Work rules

The circular is a useful tool. It is necessary to work with it depending on a number of factors:

  1. When making a cut, the depth should be set 2 mm more than the thickness of the material.
  1. Do not remove the bottom cover. When trying to remove it, the disc excessively enters the part and damages not only it, but also the surface of the workbench. You should first carefully consider how the tool will behave in the process of work.
  2. The disc should not touch the workbench. To avoid this, raise the cutting edge slightly. The cut into the wood should be at high speeds. This will prevent the risk of loss and allow you to cut the part quickly.
  3. The material should be on the work table. It is not allowed to work with it in a suspended state.
  4. Hold the tool firmly, avoiding wobbling from side to side.
  5. Secure the workpiece before starting the operation. If the safety rules are not followed, the part moves with the tool, which is not permissible.

The importance of safety

Care must be taken when working with circulars. Tuck in the garment thoroughly by tucking the protrusions and tying the belt and laces.

Hold the instrument well. If he wags during work, this situation can lead to a number of troubles: damage the equipment, the work table and cause injury.

Cut dry wood with a saw. Failure to follow the rules can quickly damage the tool. The motor will burn out at the circular.

After finishing work, you can put the saw on the workbench. She must stop completely.

Do not touch the bare wire, do not use a broken tool to avoid injury.

If you follow the rules, working with a hand-held circular saw will be simple and safe.

To dissolve the boards into bars

Hello! Please advise how to dissolve the boards into bars using a circular hand saw? To make it as accurate as possible! Thanks in advance!

Sergey, Ulyanovsk.

Hello Sergey from Ulyanovsk!

With the help of a hand-held electric circular saw, it is quite possible to dissolve the boards into bars of the required size.

The requirements for equipment and fixtures are as follows. It is considered optimal if the power of the circular is more than a kilowatt, preferably about two.

The circular must be equipped with a dimension bar (usually sold with the saw), as well as two screw clamps with wing nuts (must also be supplied).

In addition, a workbench table does not hurt, the longer the better. About two or even three meters, at least, is enough. In extreme cases, instead of a workbench, they simply use an edged wide board as a base. On which a loose board is placed.

It is better to dissolve, of course, together with an assistant, but if necessary, this can be done alone.

The operation is performed in two ways.

The first option is stationary, when with two clamps in the form of clamps, the circular is attached to the workbench upside down, that is, with the disk up. At the same time, the protective casing of the circular is fixed in such a position that it does not interfere with the work, for which it is securely and tightly wedged with a wooden homemade wedge inserted between it and the body of the circular. Violation of safety precautions! But this is often done, taking responsibility for the possible consequences.

After that, the dimension bar is set and attached so that the size between its guide (parallel to the plane of the saw blade) corresponds to the width of the future bar. Then you can dissolve the edged boards on these bars. If your boards are unedged and have wane at their edges, then at first these wane are also removed in the same way.

Since all existing circulars have a locking system (two buttons), their keys (as well as the protective casing) are jammed so that the circular is constantly in the on position. And turning on and off is done by inserting and removing the plug on the circular wire into the socket. To which there should be a fast and not blocked passage!

That is, when everything is adjusted and wedged, plug in the plug and put the end of the board on the plane of the saw. And begin to move the board with slight pressure in the direction of the rotating saw blade. The end of the board that you hold with your hands should always be 15 centimeters above the plane of the circular, then it is easier to move the board forward.

The end of the board should not be tilted to the sides, but it is necessary to keep it in one direction all the time so that the saw blade does not jam and it does not burn out. In all unforeseen situations, immediately turn off the electricity.

If there is an assistant, he should stand on the other side of the circular and take two longitudinally sawn trims of the board, slightly supporting them at the beginning of the saw, so as not to interfere with you pushing the board. And at the end of the operation, on the contrary, all functions are taken over and pulled without your help. Except when you are no longer able to hold the end of the board and it starts to jump, you then push it with a small bar to the disc with a small 30.40 bar. A dangerous zone is considered at a distance of about 25 centimeters from the teeth of a rotating disc. It is better not to stick your fingers and hands there. Dozens of my acquaintances who neglected this have fingers without one or more phalanges.

The second option is non-stationary, when the board unfolds with a circular, which is in its usual, not inverted position. The measuring bar-limiter is set, as in the first version, to the required size in the width of the future bar and make the usual rip sawing. With the help of an assistant who holds the board. Or on your own.

When you work alone, the technique is very often used when the board is screwed in two or three places with screws to a workbench or board on which the workpiece lies. So that the edge of the board being processed hangs down and it could be cut without the risk of catching on the workbench. Then unscrew the screws.

It is preferable to dissolve boards about three, maximum four meters long. It is easier and more convenient to work with such scraps. Longer bars are rarely used for further construction.

It is also preferable to work with boards no more than 40-50 millimeters thick. Thicker discs may not cut through. Due to either the small overhang of the disc or the power of the circular.

Here is a very short answer to your question. Experience comes during work, so practice and after a while you will start working as a real carpenter.