How to drill a strip saw at home. Making a home -made drill

How to make a hole in a hacksaw?

Of course, you need to drill steel before giving. And if you came across a fecal workpiece (especially fat). let it go, drill holes with an ordinary drill and harden again if there is a need for this. But, this option is not always possible and justified, sometimes non.standard situations arise in which it is necessary to drill (perfume) steel is already very hot.

Well, for example, a knife blade has broken, or you decided to make a knife from a fragment of a saw. It is a pity to throw such valuable material, masterful people usually give such things a second life.

Yes, this is not technologically advanced, but the craftsmen came up with many different ways how to drill fecal steel, or. how to make holes in it. To do this with less efforts, you need to proceed from those capabilities and materials that you have, and also depending on what purpose. Maybe, instead of a hole, you will be just arranged by a slot of corner grinding, into which you can skip a screw and fix the part. In order for the slot to turn out less, it is necessary to do it on both sides, and the overlapping disk is reduced to the smallest diameter, t.e. Almost erased.

Before drilling, it is necessary to examine the steel well, how hard it is (crumbling), and from here you can already choose methods. If, nevertheless, the steel bends at least a little, and then breaks (this can be determined by a broken end or by conducting a file), then it can be drilled with a regular concrete drill with winning attacks. True, the drill needs to be sharp. Sharpening of the drill, angle, it is also very desirable to change (correct), do it like a drill on metal, then the drilling process will go much faster.

But, the winning drill on ordinary sandpaper is useless to sharpen, it is only necessary to do this with a diamond circle, then it can be done easily and without effort. And if there is no diamond circle. just take a new bunch drill with winning attacks.

When drilling steel, it is necessary to press the drill quite strongly and drill at large speeds (if the drill is stupid or not sharpened like metal), having previously lubricated the spray with a w-40 or oil spray or oil. It will be easier to make a hole if you first drill a smaller diameter drill, and then more. The resistance area will be smaller, and therefore the drill will go into the material easier.

Thin steel, under a knife, for example, you can drill with hot rods or winning, you need to hide it as a drill and several pieces at once (make a peak and sharpen 2 faces), and change as they get out of them. A couple of minutes and the hole is ready.

From my experience, I’ll say it is good to make holes in the fecal steel with all.bended winning drills, I had a couple with a diameter of 6 mm. Having imprisoned it as for metal, he dripped the butter, and-everything goes like clockwork, at revolutions about 600-1000 rpm.

The next method is long, requires several hours, but reliable. The hole in the steel plate can easily be pulled with acid: sulfur, nitrogen, or chlorine, 10-15%is suitable. We make the signs of the desired diameter and shape from the paraffin, drip acid there and wait. The hole is a little more than the diameter of the side, this must be taken into account. To speed up the process, the workpiece can be a little heated, to about 45 degrees.

If you have a welding machine, this can also be used. The hole can simply be spread in the workpiece or locally “let go” and then drill. Then grind the melted edges and order.

Or, I managed to get out of the situation with the following method: having outlined the place of drilling with some drill, if only it was visible, and then, around the electrode, he was warming the metal to the red place of drilling-and then, without waiting for the metal to cool, then drill steel by ordinary metal drill. I then clean the points from the welding, and the order. And if you managed to drill a hole until the metal has cooled down. right there it is in the water, it will also harden in this place.

Similarly acted if it was necessary to slightly stitch the hole in the steel plate. I didn’t take a fake steel at all Then I warmed the metal with welding, at least to the cherry color, and. until it cooled. I corrected it, a round file. Even if the steel was already almost gray. the file still took it.

There are, of course, special drills for such purposes, but they are not cheap, within 4 dollars apiece. These are tubular diamond drill for high carbon steels.

Also suitable, although not quite perfect, is an adhesive drill designed to drill glass. The perovid drill should be used carefully, do not burn it much so as not to break. The plates are thin there, and the fragile will win itself.

You can make a hole in the steel plate by burning, at large revolutions and a special solid nozzle. To do this, we make a special “drill”. From the winning plate (you can use the tooth from the disk saw), we make a round of round section and pull it under the cone. We insert it into the electric drill and burn the hole in the plate at high speeds. The whole operation takes only a few minutes.

If steel is not very tiny, for example, as on a hacksaw on wood or on a spatel, then you can easily break through the hole of the desired diameter by a punch, through the fact of the same or slightly larger diameter.

It will be much easier to drill stainless steel if dripping with soldering acid to the drilling site.

And if there is access to an enterprise where there is an electro-erosion machine, then on such a machine the holes can be done without problems, in a matter of minutes.

Well, while all the methods of drilling steel. There will be some more, I will add. Since I wrote this article, I have already done it somewhat, so come in 🙂 And if you have your own, unique method of drilling steel, write.

How to drill the high.speed steel of the p6M5 or HSS brand according to the European designation? For example, we made a knife from a canvas from a mechanical saw, and it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of 5-6 mm under the pins for installing and fixing the linings of the handle in it. The same operation may be needed for drilling the canvas of the hacksaw on metal from steel 1x6VF, from which you can make some useful products. A piece of the canvas from a mechanical saw of steel 9XF is suitable not only for the manufacture of knives, but, for example, non.standard key fobs.

Methods of drilling holes in a purest metal

How to drill a hole in a purest metal with acid, welding apparatus, special drills and what additional tools are needed for this. What drills are best to cope with potato steel.

It is not difficult to drill ordinary steel or any other metal, for this, standard drilling is used from high.speed material. Another thing is to drill potato steel: here you need to work hard. After hardening, the workpiece acquires extraordinary strength, and the question arises of how to drill a hole in a purest metal, because an ordinary drill in this case can already help little.

Experts recommend making holes in the details until the moment of hardening occurred. You can still try to release steel, then make a drill and harden the material again. If this is economically justified and technically fulfilled, then it should be done, but in some cases it is simply impossible to do otherwise than to proceed to obtain a channel on an already hardened surface.

There are several ways that allow you to drill holes of any diameter in a projective metal. These methods can be implemented with great success both in production and in the home workshop.

Necessary tools and samples

All of the considered and other brands of high.speed steels are drilled using spear.shaped (feathers) drills on tiles that have various execution. So, for example, the shanks are performed round or hexagonal, which for the main work. drilling, is of fundamental importance.

They are freely sold in almost all construction stores or points selling all kinds of tools. Which is very important, the drills of this type and purpose are attractive in that they are inexpensive. Also, for drilling high.speed steels, balls of various shapes and execution will be needed. With their help, accuracy, cleanliness, shape and necessary diameter of the drilled hole are ensured.

• A piece from a frame saw of steel of a 9XF brand.
• canvas from a hacksaw for metal from steel grade 1x6VF.
• a canvas from a mechanical saw made of steel brand HSS.

The process of drilling samples of high.speed steels

Let’s start with a canvas from a hacksaw on metal. As an instrument, we choose a used feathery drill along the tile, which has already been overlapped more than once on a diamond circle. That is, from factory sharpening, which would undoubtedly give the best result, nothing has left for a long time. We insert our tools into the electrodeshille cartridge and start drilling without lubrication or cooling. As a working mode, select low speeds. We notice that the process goes slowly, but with a certain patience, after some time, a conical deepening is obtained on the canvas, a kind of zenkovka caused by the shape of our drill.

We drill until a hillock appears on the other side.

After that we turn the canvas and continue the process, focusing on the tubercle.

Alternately drilling from one or the other, we achieve an increase in the diameter of the hole until we get the right size.

The next sample is a canvas from a frame saw. We choose a place of drilling at the base of the teeth, where the material has the greatest hardness.

The process also does not proceed very quickly, but steadily. This can be seen by the gradually increasing volume of shavings around the drill.

We notice that the work goes faster if you slightly roll the tool from side to side. This helps to remove chips from the cut zone. We continue drilling on the one hand until the tip of the tool passes the entire thickness of the metal and forms a small tubercle on the other side of our sample.

Since the thickness of the metal is greater than that of the metal canvas, you will have to replace the drill in the middle of the process or rewind the one we use. After that we turn the sample and continue to drill.

Literally after a few revolutions of the drill, a through hole is formed. Continuing the process, we achieve the required diameter for a mating detail.We bring a hole using a suitable ball.

In our case, it is most convenient to use a conical tool. It is easier and faster to achieve the required hole size and give it a cylindrical shape.

After all, after a pepper drill with its great cone, the hole is different in diameter: closer to the surface of the sample it is larger, and in the center is less.

We proceed to drill the canvas from the mechanical saw.

Also, for this, select the zone closer to the teeth, since in this place the metal is stronger due to a special hardening.

The process compared to the two previous samples seems to proceed faster. This is evident by the intensity of the formation of chips and obtaining a through hole without drilling from the reverse side.

Bring the hole to the desired diameter and give it a cylindrical shape, as in past cases, one of the balls will help.Using linseed oil for drilling (it is used when working with stainless steel and contains oleic acid in its composition), it will be possible to increase productivity, less often drag the tool and increase the purity of processing. Practice shows that the process of drilling high.speed steels will become more productive, if you first use a smaller drill, and then more. As tools for drilling high.speed steels, some masters use screws or screws produced in Germany and used to work on concrete. Their distinctive feature. on the head there is a letter “n” (hardened. hardened).

The task is to drill a large hole in a tree. Solution. wood crows.

I welcome all visitors to my site, on which I talk about various types of tools, give advice and recommendations for choosing and working by one or another tool. Today we will look at the tool with which you without any problems drill a large diameter hole in a non-thick tree, most often it is plywood, a wood-fiber plate and a wood-piece plate.

Tool. ring saw on wood, most often sold in sets in various saw diameters. This is very convenient. I bought one such set and you can drill holes of any large diameters, of course, if the saws that go in the set you need diameter. Photo of such a set:

Classification

Manual wood saw there are various configurations. Hence about a large number of different models. Types of manual saws are distinguished:

• Classic. This species is the main one and has almost every man. Such a saw can have a canvas of various lengths with different numbers. Most often, the tool has interchangeable canvases present in the kit when buying
• Narrow. Such a saw is also called a spin.haired hacksaw. It is called so due to the fact that it helps to cut out lines of various shapes, moreover, very neat and clear. In addition, it is used to create through round and square holes. The saw is quite narrow, has a large number of teeth, which can be located on one working plane and on two. Working with such a saw, you need to observe accuracy. Uncertain movement can expand the blade in the other direction, for this reason choosing a hacksaw with a narrow canvas, you need to dwell on high.quality hard steel, which will not bend during operation
• With a school. Such a hacksaw has a stiffener (training), which does not allow the canvas to bend during the saw process. Therefore, the tool will not be able to make a cut below, the width of the working part of the saw. This tool has a comfortable handle at an angle of 450 to the canvas. Working with such a saw is easy
• Luchkaya. In a locksmithic case, a ray saw is an indispensable assistant. It is necessary in the process of sawing rude parts of the barrel, knots, as well as to cut out figures from plywood and other woody materials. You can also cut wood along and across the fibers. The area of ​​use of a beeshole saw is so wide that it can become a substitute for a small woodworking machine. However, do not forget that the blade during the saw can fly off the mount or tear
• Award. A saw with award will demand a lot of effort from the master. This tool is similar to a rubble. He has two pens. Such a saw is used to cut grooves and spikes, and the depth of holes and recesses can be made of different sizes. You can use it for breeds of any hardness
• Folding. Such a mechanical hacksaw can be taken with you on a hike or on vacation. Its main advantages: compactness, lightness, safety in a folded state. She has small teeth, a short pointed canvas.

We offer to familiarize yourself with how to feed the peppers in the greenhouse during flowering and fruiting

How to drill a hacksaw on wood

And even if they already thought about many disc saws, chainsaws and jigsaws, there should still be a wooden saw in the arsenal of the wizard. How to choose a hacksaw, what to pay attention to and which brand to give preference and even a little story. All this is waiting for you below.

Thanks to archaeologists, we know enough about pollen. The first documented records of manual dust belong to ancient Egypt and date about 3000 g. BC.e. There is only one riddle, because they used dust. Even the frescoes inside the pyramids diverge: some demonstrate saws for carpenters, others disassemble stone.cutting, while others demonstrate torture with a hand saw.

The hacksaws of that time were made of copper, and with the advent of iron they became much stronger. Although the shark teeth were found on some islands of Indonesia. If you improve them a little (increase the handle and add your teeth), you will get an excellent near.fight weapon.

By the way, every nation is trying to answer authorship. For example, in China it is believed that someone Lu Boon invented a hacksaw. But the Greeks consider the Ovid: the poet wrote that the invention of the hacksaw was the work of the dedica nephew named Talos.

How to choose a hacksaw for wood

Each hacksaw has its own characteristics that determine its use. Choosing this tool for yourself, you must decide in advance for what operations it will be used. For example, for the cross section of the fibers or in the longitudinal direction, cut the tree branches or dust of the floorboards, cut the wood stove or perform only the beginning of the section, and then continue to work with another tool.

The length of the canvas.This is a very important indicator, and to prove this, we will consider a small example. Suppose you need to cut a cross section with a width of 200,000 mm and a blade with a blade length of 350 cm at your fingertips. At first glance, it may seem that there should be no problems, since the length of the blade exceeds the length of the material. However, the incision is performed by reciprocating movements, and on this length the blade of the saw canvas does not leave the incision completely. The hacksaw will quickly clog, and you will complain about bad sharpening or “wrong” material.

It can be seen that with a length of 40 cm, only about 30 cm of the canvas will work. The shape of the handle interferes.

How to install a canvas in a hacksaw for metal. a metallist directory

A metal hacksaw is considered a fairly common manual tool, which is designed to divide the workpiece into several separate parts of a certain size. Its design features are characterized by the fact that it is possible to carry out the periodic replacement of the worker is tight.

When processing metal, it is very likely to quickly wear the cutting edge. Therefore, the function of replacing the tape was provided, for which it takes a small amount of time. There are simply a huge number of different paintings, consider the features of the choice and many other points in more detail.

Types of hacksaw paintings and their design

Do not forget that the production of a working habits is carried out in accordance with the established standards in GOST 53411-2009.

The specified information in this regulatory and technical documentation determines the selection of two main groups: for machine and manual cutting.

It should be borne in mind that the machine canvas for metal is extremely rare, since such equipment is extremely rare. For manual hacksaw, the following execution options are issued:

• A single hacksaw canvas for metal with a distance between the fasteners of the element 250 mm. over, the total length indicator is 265 mm. This version of the performance is suitable for the tool that is used in the absence of the need for great performance.
• Single execution options with a distance between two fasteners of an element of 300 mm. The total length indicator is 315 mm.
• For greater performance, a double hacksaw cloth is installed. The length of this version of the execution, as well as the previous.

When choosing, attention is also paid to the width indicator, which is 0.63 mm for a single execution option, for a double 0.8 mm. Tooth height in the first case is 12.5 mm, in the second 20 mm.

The value and step of the location is regulated, since such an indicator determines many operational characteristics.

In the manufacture of such a product, a variety of alloys can be used, on which the main operational characteristics largely depend on. The following alloys are most widespread:

A hacksaw canvas with a tungsten carbide has recently been quite common, since it is characterized by increased wear resistance. It should be borne in mind that spraying can have the most different colors, blue options are found on sale, ordinary steel dark gray.

The hacksaw tungsten in question is characterized by the fact that with a high hardness of the working surface, the structure is characterized by high sensitivity to the bending load. That is why with careless metal cutting, such a product will not be able to serve for a long time.

Manufacturers can achieve a high strength of strength by heat treatment. At the same time, it is worth considering the following:

• The main part of the product is characterized by the hardness of the surface layer near HRC 44-46.
• Depending on the type of material used in the manufacture, the hardness of the tooth varies from the HRC limit from 64 to 67. This indicator is characteristic of alloyed alloys. High-cutting steel is characterized by the fact that it has HRC hardness in the range of 73-78 units.

Do not forget that significant changes in hardness cause the sensitivity of the product to bending. The tool is designed for various loads, it should not exceed 60 kg with a step of 1.4 mm, as well as 10 kg with a tooth step of less than 1.4 mm.

A fairly large number of varieties of such a product determines that with the selection of a suitable version of execution there are no serious problems.

The principles of choice of canvas

It is important to choose the right option for the performance of the product to a specific operational condition. If the surface does not have the required properties, then it will not last for a long period. The selection criteria can be called the points below:

• The most important selection criterion can be called the distance between two fasteners. In some tools, this indicator may vary thanks to a special device.
• The next selection criterion is the strength of the cut metal. If the work provides for the cutting of common soft alloys, for example, copper or aluminum, then the product is selected with the least hardness of the surface layer. X6VF steel is very common, in paintings of imported origin, hCS marking is used. You can also process durable metals for which a hacksaw canvas is suitable for high.speed steel, import marking HSS,
• The thicknesses of the cut metal and the quality that must be achieved after processing is also taken into account. Abroad, the PPI indicator becomes a defining criterion. the number of tops of the teeth per inch length. To ensure high quality, PPI is required more than 24, if the priority of performance is required, then the option is selected with an indicator of less than 24.
• When choosing, attention is paid to the quality of breeding cutting. This parameter must comply with the norms that are established in the previously given GOST. There are three main execution options: breeding for each, through one tooth or two adjacent.

Many are looking for a hacksaw canvas, which can last for a long period. It should be borne in mind that the quality of the applied coating affects the operational period. The use of inexpensive substances becomes the reason why, when heated, a large number of cracks appear on the surface.

The quality is also affected by the uniformity of wiring. A good hacksaw canvas for metal is not more than 45% for a length of 10 mm.

Also, a visual inspection allows you to determine how equal in height individual teeth.

Exact results can be obtained when using a micrometer or other measuring device with high accuracy.

How to install a canvas on a hacksaw for metal

The design of the tool in question allows you to quickly replace the hacksaw cloth.

We drill a disk sawmill disk

Drive a disk sawmill disk saw 350×30 mm 24 tooth. on wood Construct Wood Bosch

Little tricks. We drill hot steel. There are many ways to drill potal steel. Someone burns

Using water for cooling can lead to rust on the details and components of the machine. To eliminate corrosion, water and soap are added to water, as well as some electrolytes (sodium carbonate, calcified soda, trinatrihosphate, sodium nitrite, sodium silicate, etc. D.) That form protective films. With normal grinding, soap and soda solutions are most often used and with thin grinding. low.concentrated emulsions.

However, when grinding saws of a low.intensity of grinding at home, a circle is often not used to cool the circle. not wanting to waste time on it.

To increase the grinding capacity of abrasive discs and reduce specific wear, you should choose the largest grain size, which provides the required cleanliness of the surface of a pointed tooth.

To choose the size of the grain of abrasive, in accordance with the grinding stage, you can use the table in the article on grinding rods. For example, if circles with diamonds are used, for black processing, you can use circles with grain size 160/125 or 125/100. 63/50 or 50/40. Circles with grains from 40/28 to 14/10 are used to remove teeth.

The circular speed of the circle when sharpening the teeth of carbide should be about 10-18 m / s. This means that when using a circle with a diameter of 125 mm, the engine speed should be about 1,500-2700 rpm / min. Sharpening of more fragile alloys is carried out at a lower speed from this range. When sharpening carbide tools, the use of hard mod leads to the formation of increased stresses and cracks, and sometimes to grinding the cutting edges, while the wear of the wheel increases.

When using sharpening machines for saw strips, a change in the relative position of the saw and a grinding circle can be carried out in different ways. The movement of one saw (the engine with a circle is motionless), the simultaneous movement of the saw and the engine, the movement of only the motor with a circle (the saw disk is motionless).

A large number of grinding machines of various functions are produced. The most complex and expensive programmable complexes can provide a fully automatic grinding mode, in which all operations are performed without the participation of a worker.

In the simplest and cheap models after installing and fixing the saw in a position that ensures the required angle of sharpening, all further operations. The saw rotation around its axis (tooth is turned on), supply for grinding (contact with a circle) and monitoring the thickness of the metal removed from the tooth. Manually produced. Such simple models are advisable to use at home when the sharpening of circular saws is episodic.

An example of the simplest machine for the machine is a system whose photo is shown in the photo below. It consists of two main nodes. engine with a circle (1) and support (2), on which a pointed saw is installed. The rotating mechanism (3) serves to change the corner of the canvas (when grinding the teeth with a beveled front plane). Using a screw (4), the saw moves along the axis of the abrasive wheel. This guarantees that the given value of the angle of the front grinding will be established. The screw (5) is used to install the stopper in the right position, preventing an excessive hit of the circle into the interdental cavity.

Sawing saw

The saw is installed on a mandrel, clamped with a conical (centering) sleeve and nut, and then installed in a strictly horizontal position using the mechanism (3). This provides an angle of inclination of the front plane (ε 1) is 0 °. In machines for grinding wheels that do not have a built.in corner scale in the tilt mechanism, this is done using a conventional goniometer of the pendulum. In this case, check the horizontality of the machine.

Rotation of the screw (4) of the mechanism that provides horizontal movement of the mandrel with a circle sets the necessary angle of cutting. In other words, the saw moves to the position where the front plane of the tooth tights tightly to the working surface of the circle.

Marker notes the tooth from which sharpening begins.

The engine is turned on, and the front plane is pointed. tooth inserting into contact with a circle and several movements of the saw back and forward with a simultaneous press of the tooth to the circle. The thickness of the removed metal is regulated by the amount of sharpening movements and the power of pressing the tooth on the abrasive wheel. After sharpening one tooth, the saw is extracted from contact with a circle, it turns on one tooth and the sharpening operation is repeated. And so on, until the marker marker does a full circle, showing that all teeth are pointed.

Tooth sharpening is tilted on the front plane. The difference between the sharpening of a beveled tooth and the sharpening of a straight tooth is that the saw cannot be installed horizontally, but with a slope. with an angle corresponding to the angle of inclination of the front plane.

The angle of the saw disk is installed using the same pendulum hydrometer. First, a positive angle is set (in this case 8 °).

After that, every second tooth is pulled.

After dragging half of the teeth, the angle of inclination of the saw disk changes from 8 ° to 8 °.

And every second tooth is pulled again.

Sharpening of the back plane. To hide the tooth on the rear plane, it is necessary that the grinding machine of the saw disk allows the saw so that the rear plane of the tooth is in the same plane with the working surface of the abrasive wheel.

How to drill a hacksaw?

Question to connoisseurs: what drill you can drill a hole. in the canvas of a mechanical saw. From such saws. They also make shoe knives.

The best answers

I burned! And drill, well, if only with a diamond!

if the winning drill does not help you can. burn errosion. There are still Elbor drill

IMHO is useless to drill, just burn or etch

As far as I remember, these canvases are made of red-hot steel- 2 options at home: 1 release metal- heat the red-hot and allow to cool- and drill to health with anything, but then the strength of the canvas, to put it mildly, will suffer (harden to the original version of the house is almost impossible )

2 drill a tube with diamond spraying at low speeds and with the addition of oil (such glasses are usually drilled)

Can be on the machine using abrasive paste (abrasive powder water). But this is a troublesome business. Better to burn.

NGRARY Drowning the drilling with a gas burner to raspberry color and drilling and quickly as a conventional drill

The answers of experts

Modern hacksaws are usually hardened only in the place of teeth

Heat this place for gas. stove and drill with an attack, drill to hot, cooling drill in oil.

Drill with a winning float.If not a blade, but where the handle is, then you can let go, heating to red and cool slowly. Then you can drill a simple steel drill.

If the hacksaw is not thick, 0, 5 mm, you can pierce a beard, placing a nut with a hole a little larger than the diameter of the beard under the canvas.

It is taken by an old Soviet drill from alloy P18, steamed from the aircraft factory, with oil, at low speeds (P6M5.He won’t take from the store)

The canvas of hardening and only the working surface (teeth) cannot be drilled and cannot be drilled. With a total width of a canvas 15 mm, this is a plot of about 5 mm. Above the teeth can be drilled with butter (soap) at low speeds and first with half a diameter. Here is the main difficulty- not to rush and not “plant to get a small drill. Slowly, in 5 7 minutes, you will succeed, but at low speeds!! ! You will rush- the result is zero! The canvas is generally not to be drilling! Then the nominal size of the drill and with soapy solution will be treated with a clean. Well, the tasks of you, I have already done an ungrateful job!

[Link is blocked by decision of the project administration] there people drilled the canvas with a diamond drill, concrete drill, electric arcs, burned with a coal electrode, and used electrochemical etching. Most methods are described in sufficient detail.

Try with a regular drill with strong pressure at medium speeds, not a drill, but on the machine, the part will quickly heat up and the hole will actually be served through the red.hot metal

Burning tungsten rod, at high speeds, about 10,000 rpm

But the tubular drill with diamond spray did not try?

Any metal, regardless of hardness, can be “drilled” with electrophoresis in a few hours. The problem at the same time is to reliably cover the surface with varnish or glue to the hole. You can also combine electrophoresis with drilling with a coal electrode to remove reaction and coal products

And what if you apply a technology like etching of printed circuit boards, cover with acid.resistant varnish except the desired hole, and etch in acid.

How to make a knife from a saw

Fantasy of people has no bounds. “Kozemans” is a separate caste of mankind that can make a blade from all kinds of materials on the planet. Our resource contains several options for your own manufacturing knives, using various materials. Add another interesting way. making a blade from a hacksaw cloth.

Working tools and materials

Judging by the reviews of experienced knife masters. You can use any canvas of the former saw as a workpiece. Two.handed, fury, tape, hacksaw for metal or wood. any of the selected options, guarantees strength and durability. All of them are perfectly sharpened, thanks to which they are made.

In the production of a saw tool, factory hardening is used. The manufacture of a knife from the saw is fraught with a time.consuming process, it is difficult to handle the workpiece due to the red resistance of the metal. The efforts spent on the manufacture of the product will more than pay off in the final result.

You will need a tool used in the manufacture of knives:

• an electric drill, with a set of cins of various diameters;
• a tochline machine (the presence of it will simplify the work);
• Corner grinder “Corner grinder”, circles of various purposes;
• Files of various granularity;
• ruler, pencil, paper, marker;
• vise, hammer and sandpaper with various grains;
• Tanner of water.

You may need a welding machine to weld a shank. It is necessary to unequivocally determine the type of handle. overhead or absord. Both types are easier to make wood. Let’s dwell on the first version. Required materials:

• a piece or a whole saw;
• tree bars, epoxy glue;
• bar, tin, brass or bronze;
• Tool for working with wood: Kern, chisel, etc.

There is absolutely no meaning in what condition is the saw canvas mined. This will not affect the final product.

Making a knife from a saw with your own hands

Looking at the finished blade, the layman will think. what’s the complicated? Drank, sprinkled, sharpened and attached a pen. Not. Making a knife is a whole science that is gradually often converting into art. A do.it.yourself blade has multiple positive qualities:

• The handle is easy to make under the palm of the owner of the product;
• there is no need to worry about the quality of the workpiece and the final product;
• give uniqueness to the product, will not be difficult.

Ability to use the tool, come in handy for a beginner. Following the instructions, the blade will work out definitely. And the quality depends on the directness of the manufacturer’s hands.

Cutting and primary processing of the workpiece

The initial stage in the manufacture of a blade from a hacksaw canvas, similarly from other materials, is a preliminary sketch. It is necessary to have an idea of ​​what the result will be. Marking will help cut the workpiece of the required shape:

• straight angles should be avoided, the layout is required with a small margin of 1.5. 2.5 mm;
• It is necessary to know the future purpose of the blade, the shape of the sketch directly depends on the role of the use of the product;
• Along the way, it is worth remembering the laws of the manufacture of cold weapons.

On our resource, the legislative aspect regarding the wearing of knives is considered separately. Having finished making a layout, you should transfer it to the blank of the saw. It is necessary to outline an acute object, the marker is used as extreme necessity. Seeing the outline of the sketch is the main task.

Drinking to make a knife.

Having fixed the workpiece in a vice, the future blade is cut along the contour. The part cannot be overheated, it is necessary to water it with water, excess steel heating will lead to the fragility of the product. Small areas are permissible to expose high temperatures, the reserve during marking, made for a reason. It is better to remove them on a sharpener.

In this case, overheating is unacceptable. Remove excess metal, it is necessary to gradually and periodically lower in a container with water.

It is permissible to do blackwork. Having removed the burrs, it is worth taking on the manufacture of the handle. You do not need to give the blade to harden, there is enough factory rolling.

We make a pen

The previously adopted decision on the overhead method of attaching the handle gives every right to use the drill. The drilling machine is a luxury, with the estate of such a “miracle”, it is not shameful to resort to his help:

• In accordance with the sketch in the shank there is a need to make two or three holes. Depends on the length of the handle.
• Split the prepared bar of the tree strictly in half.
• Having tried on wooden blanks to the shank, faint them to a dense junction. In one of them you should cut out a sealing exhaust.
• Perfectly adjusting the details, holes are made in wooden pads.
• Raps are cut from a copper bar. Final fitting and preliminary assembly.
• Wooden blanks to the draft, fit under the anatomy of the owner’s palms.
• The final pushing of the handle, the manufacture of Bolster from the brass.
• Assembly of the parts of the handle with the smear of the shank and linings with epoxy glue.
• Closing copper maples. Drying the product.

One day is enough to dry out the glue. On a grinding machine to fit the handle finally. Fabric with sandpaper with fine grain.

Descent and sharpening

Responsible moment. manufacturing descents on the blade. They need to make them symmetrical. Descents determine the further sharpening of the knife. The cutting edge (RK) directly depends on them. A special device will be a good assistant at this moment, which is described at the link slightly higher. And the ability to use a corner grinder to remove descents.

The blade is pulled for the necessary needs. The angle of sharpening of the RK depends on the purpose of the knife. There are plenty of ways to derive the right RK.

How to make a knife from a saw a link to the main publication

Powerful wooden woodener with your own hands [life hack]

Corner grinder machine. universal tool. It is difficult to imagine almost any metal work without it without it. However, its sphere is not limited to this. not a day goes away, so that they do not come up with a new purpose for it.How to make a knife.free woods from a corner grinder. the theme of today’s article.

What is required for manufacturing

For the manufacture of electric saws, you will need:

• Wood hacksaw
• A small piece of pipe for 1.5 inches
• bearing. inner diameter about 22 mm
• metal sheet 2 mm
• Haye M8
• Bolts and nuts M6
• Reinforced pucks M14

We make an electric hacksaw

Самодельная электрическая ножовка из угловой шлифмашинки

When working with a corner grinder, a rotational moment is used. We need progressive movements for a hacksaw. We will transform rotation with the help of an eccentric.

Step. making an eccentric

We install an enhanced puck on the corner grinding spindle and put the bearing on top of it.

The center of rotation of the bearing will be shifted using a bolt. We note the excess.

Sipping the bolt, place its shortened rod inside the bearing.

We lay the second reinforced washer on top and twist the M8 with a nut;

The eccentric is ready. You can proceed to the next stage.

Step. make a workpiece for fastening the nozzle

We will make it from a steel pipe.

Measure the distance to the lower level of the bearing.

Do not forget about personal protective equipment.

Step. make mount

At this stage, the workpiece from the pipe will need to be drunk half.

Measure the length of the seat for fastening the nozzle.

Using the circul, draw the transverse marking.

We circle it with a marker and make a marking for cutting, which is needed to fix the mount on a corner grinder.

We make a cut on the markup, in t.h. transverse.

We weld two bolts on a fixing sawn ring to fix the mount.

We put on the mount on the corner grinder, and fix it.

Step. making a hull for a hacksaw

The case will consist of 2 steel plates. Their dimensions are arbitrary, but should not be less than 2 diameters of the bearing used.

We clarify the external diameter of the bearing and divide it in half on the stand.

From the cent of the plates we make control points using a barbell, apply a bearing and outline it.

On the drilling machine, drill holes.

Holes in the plates can be cut down. To do this, use a drill with small drills and a chisel. Geometry is brought by a round file.

Step. preparation of a hacksaw cloth

Marking is carried out in arbitrary size.

We determine the place of contact of the hacksaw cloth with the bearing. We celebrate the center.

Using the circul, we make the primary marking for the bearing-3-4 points from the center.

We attach the bearing and circle it with a marker.

The resulting hole must be destroyed on the vertical level of the saw blade.

The hole must be formed in the oval. Its dimensions of its diameters are approximately 1,3. To accurately determine the shape of the hole, you need to try on the canvas in place.

Step. assembly of the saw case

Формируем болтовое соединение на корпусе насадки

At this stage, you need to weld the cuffs (fastening) to one of the metal plates and form holes for fasteners.

Fix the workpiece in a vice, apply fasteners and weld to the plate. Helped bolts to the ring should be on top.

Mark 4 holes for the bolt mount in each plate.

Step. install a hacksaw canvas

According to the housing plates, we mark the hacksaw.

For sawing, you need a stroke of the hacksaw canvas, so the holes must be squeezed along the saw by 1-1.5 cm, this must be done by observing the symmetry.

Periodically check the sufficiency of holes for the course, scrolling the eccentric.

Step. final assembly

After they were convinced that the rotation of the eccentric is stable, you can collect the nozzle for the corner grinder finally. Do this with two nuts for each hole.

For appearance, the product can be painted. Before assembly, you need to lubricate the internal parts of the plate with a lithol.

Testing electric saw from corner grinder

The tests were successful. This saw surprisingly saws small logs well, spending a couple of minutes.

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Soldering control

The seam examination of a cooked ribbon saw will not be superfluous if it is completed by a novice master. Control is carried out by a visual way. Carefully inspect the articulated area to identify possible defects.

The shift of the ends occurs due to a small current strength, the splash. due to excessively increased. Non.carrier forms at low pressure or insufficient current.

Technoweld

The connection of the strip saws in the ring for working on a tape.sawer or sawmill is possible:

• Soldering. The method was used earlier for not wide saws on wood, to the distribution of contact butt welding devices for tape saws by resistance and melting. Requires laborious training, in serial production is poorly applicable, but can be used to repair.
• Welding semiautomatic device on a forming lining. In this case, alloy welding wire and heating the canvas in front and during welding are used. There are such machines, part is equipped with a built.in lining heater. The connection method is not laborious but long.term. Used for wide canvas in wood. It has a partial replacement in the form of apparatus for welding tape saws with melting with the capabilities of welding of paintings up to 210 mm, but in just a few such machines.

The last two methods will be discussed below.

Welding ribbon drank resistance

The essence of the method in the process of warming up the saw material under the influence of current ends and precipitation. The canvas is completely restored in the joint area, since it is there that the main heat release is localized. Under the influence of precipitation efforts, the rested material begins to be squeezed into the ground, and the distance between the lips of the device for welding tape saws is reduced. When the adjustable length of the length is reached, the current is turned off and the canvas cools under the influence of precipitation, then the precipitation pressure is removed, the canvas is closed again into the diluted sponges of the machine to the annealing to heat treatment with heating also due to the current passage.

• The initial distance between the lips (electrodes) of the apparatus. This distance mainly depends on the thickness and stiffness of the material of the canvas. If this distance exceeds this distance, the canvas can lose stability under the influence of precipitation, at a small distance, the material is not enough to squeeze into the ground and in the seam are waterproof, fistulas and extraneous inclusions.
• Precipitation force. the larger the cross.section of the canvas and the more viscous metal the more effort is necessary.
• The moment of turning off the current during sediment. this parameter regulates the degree of precipitation of the canvas and prevents the dangerous convergence of the welding apparatus electrodes and their damage

The specificity is that the distribution of the current along the width of the canvas will be uneven and depend on the uniformity of the pressing of the canvas to the electrodes along the width, and on the state of the end surfaces. If the first is achieved by press adjustments and the state of the surface of the electrodes (polished or purely millned flat surface of free from pollution), then the second only by the purity of pruning and withstanding strictly perpendicular cut. This is necessary so that heating occurs evenly over the entire width of the canvas to approximately the same depth. Burrs, not perpendicularity of the cut of the axis of the tape canvas. Pollution getting into the saw clip zone, saw surface defects in the form of scuffs, deviations of the thickness of the tape will cause uneven heating and or obtaining a seam with pronounced uneven properties or visual marriage.

With visual defects, everything is clear. they are obvious. However, in case of violations of technology, the seam of the tape saw may not have visual defects. there is a grat, but it is not uniform in the width of the canvas and different in thickness. Such a defect, depending on the sensitivity of the saw material to the anneal, can both critically affect the work of a strip saw and be acceptable. The cooling rate of metal after welding the saw in the zone where the zone near the seam was more heated, there will be less than the cooling rate where the relatively colder areas entered the contact. The hardening of the saw structure will occur in different ways, and in addition, in the zone of slow cooling, there may not be enough precipitation and large grain will appear. If the canvas is rigid, then it is likely to be demanding on observing the parameters of heat treatment in order to obtain the main material of the saw of the properties of the seam and the near.haired zone close to the elastic properties. Alas, since the initial state of the canvas after welding turned out to be different in terms of hardening and structure to level the properties of the heat treatment, and if the canvas is sensitive to such a deviation, then the performance of such a seam in the saw is under a big question If the canvas is relatively soft and supple, If, with normal welding, it allows significant deviations of temperature and heat treatment time without changing the properties- most likely such a defect will be permissible and, if it affects the performance of the saw, then only in the long term.

With the simplicity of equipment and the relative cheapness of devices for welding the drainage by resistance, it is this “moodiness” of the technology to uniform water supply during welding and restrains the use of stiff welding, welding of paintings with defects. The scope of the use of the welding method according to the welding technology by resistance is welding not wide wood canvas in small volumes, welding of part of the strip knives, episodic welding of bimetallic saws, welding of tapes in the production of other types of products such as reservation of cables, production of powder welding wire, small tubes of small diameter.

Welding tape saw with contact welding with melting.

With this welding method, the process after the clamping of the ends of the canvas in the sponges of the welding apparatus occurs according to another technological sequence:

• The sponges of the device for welding saw are diluted by a small distance of about 0.2 mm and the voltage supply to the welding transformer and to the sponges is turned on;
• The rapprochement of the sponges with increasing speed begins. As the microdistrict of the ends of the canvas comes together, the current passes through this local connection melts the surface of the surface, and. It also partially evaporates the bridge of their liquid metal of the saw that has entered into contact (short circuit). As the neighboring sections of the canvas come into contact, the number of microdugs from the gap of the bridges increases, the arcs are mixed throughout the cross.section of the canvas evenly warming the end. The evaporation of a part of the metal and the thrown out splashes burn the oxygen from the welding zone and protect the heated metal of the ends from the oxidation.
• When a certain way of melting and the desired heating of the ends of the saw, a sharp closure of the gap with the application to the canvas force of precipitation occurs. In this case, the welding current remains turned on until the apparatus sponsion is brought up to the adjustable distance between them or turns off with a custom time delay (depending on the technology laid in the device welding).
• The cooling of the canvas occurs with applied precipitation, in the future is also reduced to an annealing position (either manually or automatically) and further heat treatment with the release of the canvas from axial pressure when heated and cool down. The mobile sponge with annealing should freely move at least at a short distance. It will be 0.3 or 1.0 mm from the point of view of technology to free the saw during heat treatment after welding the difference does not play. but this freedom should be! The same applies to welding resistance, but not all welders drank after the clip of saws to the annealing position additionally, the precipitation spring for the same purpose.