How to Fix a Grip

Clutch repair. Repair discs and master cylinder

The main malfunction in the clutch. violation of reliable transmission of torque from the engine to the transmission as a result of wear of friction linings and friction surfaces, weakening of pressure springs, wear and breakage of individual parts.

Before removing the clutch from the engine, it is necessary to make marks on the flywheel, clutch cover and pressure plate in order to install the parts in the same position during assembly. This is necessary to maintain the balance of the crankshaft, flywheel and clutch.

The clutch housing is disassembled on a universal stand for disassembly, assembly and adjustment. In the absence of a stand, the clutch housing is dismantled using a device that allows compressing the springs.

Repairing driven discs

The slave disk may have defects:

  • friction pad wear
  • weakening of rivets of fastening of a nave
  • warping disc
  • wear of splines of a nave

The disc is rejected for cracks and kinks, the maximum wear of the holes, and the hub. for cracks and the maximum wear of the splines.

Loose rivets are removed. The holes are drilled at the same time in the hub, disk and oil seal washer and riveted with rivets in a hot state. It is not allowed to tighten loose rivets.

How to Fix a Grip

Fig. Universal stand for disassembling, assembling and adjusting the clutch: 1. stand frame; 2. a cross; 3. pneumatic cylinder; 4. plate; 5. an adjusting washer; 6. rod of the pneumatic cylinder; 7. flange sleeve; 8. an adjusting nut; 9. screw; 10. cam; 11. thrust; 12. sleeve.

Friction linings worn in thickness are replaced with new ones. New linings are riveted with hollow rivets made of non-ferrous metals or glued with glue BC-UT or BF-52T. For the manufacture of rivets, copper or brass tubes of the appropriate diameter are used. The rivet heads in the new overlays should be recessed 1.0-1.5 mm. Leakage of a surface of an overlay should not exceed 0,3 mm. When using overlays in the form of separate sectors, their difference in thickness in one set should not exceed 0.1 mm. A pneumatic press is used to rivet the linings to the driven discs.

Bonding of linings compared to riveting increases productivity by almost 3 times, saves non-ferrous metal, increases the friction surface of linings and their service life, reduces the seizure of the working surfaces of the pressure and intermediate discs. The technology for bonding linings is discussed above.

Warpage of the driven discs is determined by the end runout on the device. Eliminate warping by editing on the plate before riveting (gluing) the overlays.

Repair of pressure and intermediate discs

During wear, scoring or warping of the working surfaces, the discs are grinded and grinded until traces of wear are removed. After piercing, the thickness of the discs must meet the technical requirements. In the machined pressure plates, the holes for the heads of the adjustment bolts are deepened by the thickness of the removed layer. The roughness of the working surface of the disks should not be higher than 0.63 microns, non-flatness. not more than 0.15 mm.

Clutch assembly

For assembly use a stand or fixture used during disassembly.

In order to maintain the force of the pressure springs of the tractor clutches, it is advisable to place washers in the ring tucks of the pressure disk, the thickness of which is equal to the layer of metal removed during grinding.

Springs pick up the same in length and elasticity. In the assembled clutch, all ends of the squeeze levers must lie in one plane parallel to the base of the housing. The distance from the end face of the clutch housing or from the working surface of the pressure plate to the plane in which the ends of the squeeze levers are located is set strictly in accordance with the technical conditions for this machine. If there is no stand, the correct location of the squeeze levers is installed on the plate using a depth gauge or a special device.

Clutch cylinder repair

Fig. The hydraulic clutch actuator VAZ-2101-07: 1. the main cylinder; 2. compensation hole; 3. gasket fitting; 4. fitting; 5. a lock spring washer; 6. the piston of the main cylinder; 7. a sealing ring; 8. plunger piston; 9. hook; 10. the axis of the clutch and brake pedals; 11. an arm of pedals of coupling and brake; 12. reinforcing spring of the clutch pedal (servo spring); 13. exhaust spring clutch pedal; 14. clutch pedal stroke limiter; 15. clutch pedal; 16. a pusher; 17. a protective cap; 18. a lock ring; 19. bypass hole; 20. a sealing ring (ring valve); 21. the bypass hole of the piston; 22. a working cylinder; 23. spring; 24. laying; 25. cork; 26. inner sleeve of the pedal; 27. the outer sleeve of the pedal; 28. spacer sleeve; 29. brake pedal

For work, it is necessary to dismantle the entire assembly, having previously disconnected all the nozzles and draining the liquid from the system. Also, you should prepare in advance a repair kit for the clutch master cylinder, which includes all parts subject to wear. Despite the fact that the device of the clutch master cylinder is not difficult, it is advisable to carry out the work by persons with at least minimal experience in performing locksmith work. If the question of how to remove the clutch master cylinder is completely incomprehensible, it is better to abandon self-repair, and simply replace the cylinder with a new one.

After dismantling, the cylinder should be disassembled and its parts thoroughly flushed with brake fluid (do not use solvents or gasoline). All parts from the repair kit that you plan to use, it is also advisable to rinse before installation.

After dismantling and completely disassembling the main cylinder into its constituent elements, we can proceed to assess the technical condition of all the parts. The first step is to carefully inspect the piston, mirrors, and sealing elements. Quite often, on the internal surfaces you can find foci of corrosion. they can be eliminated by careful treatment with fine-grained emery paper. Multiple, extensive and accompanied by the presence of scuffing foci of corrosion indicates a violation of the gap between the piston and the cylinder walls.

It is recommended that all sealing elements be replaced with new ones, since when working under pressure, even minor defects will inevitably lead to leakage of fluid from the cylinder. It is not permissible to treat rubber seals with oils to facilitate assembly. this will lead to their swelling and the inability to function normally.

After eliminating all the malfunctions, the device can be assembled in reverse disassembly sequence.

For pumping, it is required to provide free access to the master cylinder, and it will be more convenient to drive some models of vehicles into a pit or lift them on a hydraulic lift. A new brake fluid is poured into the tank, a transparent tube is put on the fitting, the end of which is lowered into a container with the same working fluid. The rhythmic operation of the clutch pedal pumps the hydraulic actuator until the air release through the fitting is completely stopped. After that, the fitting is twisted, and the car is ready for operation.

Clutch repair. we do it ourselves

As any motorist knows, a lot depends on a well-tuned clutch pedal. If it fails or works poorly, it becomes simply impossible to drive a car, because the clutch is responsible for many functions that are of great importance.
Often, it becomes the mechanism that needs to be repaired immediately. And how to repair the clutch on your own, we learn from this article.

The main symptoms of clutch failure

On the VAZ 2106, clutch repair can be associated with various reasons. But the symptoms of a malfunctioning clutch are virtually unchanged on all vehicles.
It could be:

  • the problem with the inclusion of speed transmission (when it is necessary to “pump” the clutch several times or press it all the way to activate the system);
  • loss of clutch when overtaking or driving fast;
  • characteristic sound, indicating a malfunction and much more.

Do-it-yourself clutch repair

Caution: if the above symptoms are noticed, then you need to proceed to urgent repair. In some cases, it is impossible to even get to the garage if the clutch is denied access.
In this case, it is advisable to insert a key between the cable leash and the clutch fork, which will help to get to the place.

Removing gearbox

On the VAZ 2106, 07, 08 or on the VAZ 2114, clutch repair is practically not carried out without removing the gearbox. It is simply impossible to determine the cause of the clutch failure without this.
Therefore, first of all, we proceed to this operation.
The method for removing the gearbox below will allow you to not drain the oil from the box and not pull the drive out of it:

  • remove the air filter;
  • we remove the clutch cable or, as specialists call it, the drive;
  • remove the starter;
  • we relax the upper bolts of fixation of a transmission to the engine.

Loosening the upper mounting bolts

We proceed to the next steps:

  • turn off the speed sensor chip;
  • we unscrew the wiring harness clamp;
  • lift the car with a jack or other device;
  • weaken the drive nuts located on the right and left of the machine to the end;
  • remove the suspension arm.

Unscrewing the suspension arm

We continue to repair the clutch vaz 2114:

  • remove the ball joint;
  • two bolts of the suspension arm must be unscrewed;
  • remove the front suspension lever;
  • remove the lower mudguard of the car engine;
  • turn off the chip with the reversing light switch;
  • now it’s time to unscrew the jet thrust from the gearbox;
  • remove, unscrewing, the bottom cover of the crankcase;
  • it’s time to loosen the nut of the gearbox control drive (it is also called the link rod);
  • disconnect it (it must be remembered that when installing the gearbox in place, this link must be adjusted).

Gearbox control drive nut

  • we unscrew the bottom bolt and the nut securing the gearbox to the engine (we must remember that in this case everything must be done carefully, since it is not easy to find the nut if the drives are in place);
  • take the jack and raise the engine so as not to damage the pan.

Jack lifting engine

  • disconnect the gearbox from the pillows;
  • lower the jack a little;
  • remove the gearbox.

At this stage, the removal of the gearbox can be called finished. In the process, you must use the right tool.
Wrenches should be different: ring spanners, spanners, heads are often used.

Repair of the working cylinder VAZ 2101

The clutch master cylinder on the VAZ 2101

On cars of this brand, repairs are carried out in the same way as on other models of VAZ. Often the cause of the malfunction is associated with such a detail as the clutch master cylinder of the VAZ 2101.
Repairing it, in a step-by-step instruction, is presented below.
This working cylinder can be installed at the very bottom of the car, and you do not need to remove the gearbox. A part is often subject to aggressive environmental influences, which explains such a common reason for failure.
The design of the working cylinder consists of:

  • anther (it protects the working part of the part from dirt);
  • rubber cuffs;
  • mirrors and other accessories.

On the VAZ 2101, the clutch repair, or rather the cylinder, we begin with the following actions:

  • raise the car to the inspection hole:
  • be sure to drain the brake fluid from the tank in front, and remove the clutch hose from the main cylinder, lift it up so that the fluid does not pour out and fix it with improvised means (for example, tie it with a rope);
  • we unscrew the connections with a wrench at 17 (if you can’t open the nuts, you can use a rust remover, such as vinegar);
  • disassemble the cylinder;
  • inspect the mirror and if it is not damaged, replace the worn parts;
  • we put everything in place before lubricating the rubber cuffs and the mirror with brake fluid.

Repair baskets and clutch disc on the VAZ

It is worth noting again that on the VAZ 2105 clutch repair is carried out in the same way as on other models. If the clutch repair of the VAZ 2101 was mainly associated with the replacement of parts of the main cylinder, then on other models, including the VAZ 2105, the repair can be associated with the basket or the clutch disc itself.
It is clear that we are starting to carry out work at the already removed checkpoint.
So, we begin:

  • we unscrew the bolts securing the basket (pay attention to the petals of the basket and if they are very worn, change the basket to a new one);

Clutch basket on VAZ

We continue to repair the clutch on cars of the brand 05, 01 or VAZ 21099. It is worth noting that when replacing the entire clutch disc or even the basket, it is necessary to straighten the gearbox shaft, otherwise when the disc is shifted, it does not matter which way, the shaft cannot be driven in.

  • put a disk with a mandrel in the flywheel;
  • insert the basket, but it’s better all at once;
  • tighten the basket fixation bolts (we do this all the way, but gradually turning in a circle);
  • lubricate the shaft;
  • insert the release bearing.

Repair of the clutch disc of the VAZ is completed and it remains only to put the gearbox in place. Everything is carried out in the reverse order, and if there is a viewing hole, everything will go much easier.
If you intend to work without lifting the car into the inspection hole, then you will definitely need an assistant. There is a video on our website where you can see how to do everything right.

We do the installation

  • lower the car as low as possible;
  • the engine on the jack is also lowered;
  • insert the left drive;
  • bait it with a nut.

In this photo we see the clutch drive circuit:

Clutch drive scheme for VAZ

We continue the installation with our own hands:

  • we put the board under the gearbox to make it more convenient to wear it;
  • it is desirable to put bricks under the board, preferably two (a kind of lever is formed);
  • an assistant should step on a kind of lever and thereby raise the gearbox;
  • meanwhile, the second person inserts the checkpoint into place.

This completes the installation of the gearbox, but do not forget about the adjustment of the scenes, which was mentioned above, as well as the rest of the assembly. The above step-by-step repair report will help novice motorists save some money.
After all, the price of this type of service is very expensive and not everyone can afford it. And so you get a unique opportunity to do everything for free, just taking a little time from yourself and your friend.


You will need: “8” socket head, knob, mandrel to center the driven disk.

1. Remove a transmission from the car (see. "Removal and installation of a transmission").

2. Install the mandrel in the hole of the hub of the driven disk 4 (Fig. 5.3).

Fig. 5.3. Disassembled clutch: 1 – push disk; 2 – clutch cover; 3 – diaphragm spring; 4-slave drive

You can remove the clutch without the mandrel, but at the same time hold the driven disc. it may fall out of the clutch cover.

The mandrel to center the driven disk can be made according to the size of the input shaft or use the old input shaft instead.

3. Turn out six bolts of fastening of a casing of coupling. Remove the clutch cover assembly with the pressure plate and the follower plate mounted inside the cover. Hold the driven disk so that it does not fall out.

When loosening the clutch cover mounting bolts, use a screwdriver to lock the flywheel. To stop the screwdriver, install one bolt securing the clutch housing (for clarity, the operation is shown on the removed engine).

4. Cracks in the parts of the driven disc are not allowed. Check the wear of the friction linings A. If the rivet heads B are recessed to a distance of less than 0.2 mm, the surface of the friction linings is oily or the rivets are loose, then the drive plate must be replaced.

Check up reliability of fixing of damper springs B in nests of a nave of a conducted disk, at broken springs the disk needs to be replaced.

5. Check the runout of the driven disk, if a visual inspection reveals its warping. If runout exceeds 0.5 mm, replace disc.

6. Inspect the friction surfaces of the flywheel and the pressure plate, paying attention to the absence of deep grooves, scoring, nicks, obvious signs of wear and overheating. Replace defective parts.

7. If the rivet joints are loosened, in the parts of the casing and pressure plate, replace the casing with the pressure disk assembly. Examine the condition of the diaphragm spring B of the pressure plate. Cracks on the diaphragm spring are not allowed. The contact points A of the petals of the spring with the clutch release bearing should be in the same plane and not have obvious signs of wear (wear should not exceed 0.8 mm). Otherwise, replace the cover with pressure plate assembly.

Video: How to Fix a Grip

8. Examine the condition of the support rings of the compression spring. Rings should not have cracks and signs of wear. Otherwise, replace the cover with pressure plate assembly.

To check the leading part of the clutch, fix the pressure plate 3 (Fig. 5.5) assembled with the pressure spring 1 and the casing 2 on the fixture with an intermediate ring 4 of thickness B = (8.3 ± 0.04) mm. This adaptation replaces a flywheel with a conducted disk.

Fig. 5.5. Checking the condition of the clutch disc: A, C – controlled sizes; B is the distance between the intermediate ring 4 and the flywheel; 1 – push spring; 2 – casing; 3 – push disk; 4 – intermediate ring

Disengage the clutch three times with the switch-off stroke of 8–9 mm, applying a load to the petals of the compression spring 1 at a diameter of C = 34 mm. Do the following:

9. Before installing the clutch, check the ease of movement of the driven disc along the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox. If necessary, eliminate the causes of seizing or replace defective parts.

10. Please note that when installing the driven disk into the pressure disk housing, the more protruding part of the hub should be directed towards the pressure spring.

11. Insert the centering mandrel into the slots of the follower plate on the pressure spring side.

12. Install the clutch on the flywheel along the three centering pins (shown by arrows) and screw six bolts of the clutch to the flywheel evenly crosswise, keeping the flywheel from turning. Then remove the centering mandrel and install the gearbox.

How to change the clutch: how to put the clutch disc

Another important function of the clutch is protection against excessive overloads of the automobile transmission. if the driver decided to brake sharply when the gear is engaged. Due to the high load on the clutch, after a long run of the car, the clutch must be checked and repaired if necessary.

How the car clutch works and works

For many drivers, the “grip” is associated exclusively with the pedal under the left foot. Meanwhile, this is a complex mechanism, on the health of which depends not only on ride comfort, but also on driver safety.

As you know, the wheels of a car rotate due to the operation of the engine, or rather, the rotation of the crankshaft. In this case, the internal combustion engine is not directly connected to the drive wheels. The power unit rotates the flywheel (the part looks like a big gear).

The flywheel, in turn, transfers the rotation to the gearbox shafts. Then, through separate transmission elements, the torsional moment is transmitted to the wheels. The clutch connects the flywheel (count the engine) and the input shaft of the gearbox.

As for the clutch pedal, the driver by pressing it can turn off the clutch (conditionally, disconnect the engine and gearbox). In a nutshell, the clutch mechanism consists of three discs:

  • leading (aka engine flywheel);
  • push;
  • slave.

All this is placed in a casing and is called a clutch basket. The flywheel (master disk) transfers the rotation to the driven disk solely due to the frictional force. The driven disk has wear-resistant linings and is pressed against it by a pressure disk constantly under the influence of powerful springs. When the pedal is depressed, the clutch drive pushes the pressure plate, and the follower, in turn, moves away from the flywheel.

When it comes to replacing a clutch disc, it often refers to the follower, since over time its lining wears out. In fact, such a disk is just a consumable with a limited life.


Do-it-yourself replacement of a worn clutch disc in the presence of all tools involves the following operations:

On the clutch removed, it is necessary to check the condition of the disk, bearing, springs. Worn, defective parts must be replaced. Take this opportunity to clean and lubricate all the rubbing parts.

The surface of the disc must be dry, without scoring, cracks.

After repairing the clutch, replacing all unsuitable components to the maximum, assemble the gearbox in the reverse order, install it in the car.

When to change the clutch disc and how to do it

The malfunction of the driven disk is indicated by the so-called clutch slipping. That is, the torque is not transmitted from the flywheel to the disk, the clutch “slips” or slips. The signs of this phenomenon are as follows:

  • characteristic burning smell with increasing engine speed;
  • the car accelerates slowly, pulls poorly when the road goes uphill or under loads;
  • increased vibrations appear, shock in the adhesion area is possible;
  • the clutch pedal’s free play increases (the clutch “grabs” at the very top).

All this indicates that the disc does not press well against the flywheel. And if we talk about the disk, then such options are possible: mechanical failure (clamping springs, damper springs, hub splines are faulty) or friction linings are worn out. In the first case, most likely, you will have to change the clutch disc, and in the second you can get by replacing the friction linings.

If we talk about friction linings, conventional friction linings are made from organic materials. During normal operation of the car under normal conditions (for example, driving around the city and on the highway), their replacement will be required after about 80 thousand kilometers.

We also recommend that you read an article on how the clutch is arranged and works in a box machine. From this article you will learn about the features of the automatic transmission clutch, as well as the advantages and disadvantages of this solution.

However, the habit of starting abruptly, an increased load on the car (for example, aggressive driving, slippage in mud, snow, sand, towing trailers, etc.) lead to a significant reduction in the service life of the pads.

If the machine is constantly operated in conditions close to extreme, it is worth checking the condition of the pads after 20-40 thousand kilometers. Better yet, it will be immediately installed when replacing pads made of more wear-resistant materials. For example, from Kevlar fiber, carbon composite materials or cermets.

Clutch disassembly

How to correctly and which side to put the clutch disc on, this question often arises for novice motorists who do not pay attention to certain nuances when performing work, ignoring which can lead to useless repairs and serious problems with the machine.

Proceeding to the removal of the node under consideration, it is necessary to fulfill the following requirements:

  • Block the vehicle with special wedges;
  • Release cardan from gearbox and slave cylinder;
  • Disconnect the limit switch wiring of the light switch for reverse gear;
  • Using a ring wrench, a pair of fastening nuts are removed to secure the gearbox cushion, which is removed. Further, it is necessary to remove the transmission box from the engine at the maximum possible distance so that the switch rests on the bottom;
  • The transmission will be hanging on the inlet pipe of the muffler, so it is advisable to secure the back of the box by installing an additional support. Retracting the flywheel, you need to unscrew the six mounting bolts on the clutch basket. For ease of access to the locking elements, the crankshaft should be rotated periodically;
  • In the resulting groove, by shifting the clutch basket, the disk is removed. To remove the basket itself, you will need to shift it in the direction of the engine. Next, it remains to dismantle the fork and release bearing.


The clutch of the woodworking device is centrifugal and automatically triggers when the engine speed changes. If the speed is low, the elements of the mechanism are pressed against the shaft. Thus, the rotational motion is not transmitted to the sprocket. With increasing speed, the elements diverge and are pressed against the drum, thereby causing the chain to rotate.

A characteristic property of this type of device is braking when the circuit slows down. Thus, it turns out to avoid some glitches. But nevertheless, this system is subjected to a huge load, so it is necessary to systematically carry out preventive inspection and repair.


The clutch of the woodworking device is centrifugal and automatically triggers when the engine speed changes. If the speed is low, the elements of the mechanism are pressed against the shaft. Thus, the rotational motion is not transmitted to the sprocket. With increasing speed, the elements diverge and are pressed against the drum, thereby causing the chain to rotate.

A characteristic property of this type of device is braking when the circuit slows down. Thus, it turns out to avoid some glitches. But nevertheless, this system is subjected to a huge load, so it is necessary to systematically carry out preventive inspection and repair.


Assembly of the unit is carried out in a mirror disassembly sequence. Preliminarily, a special lubricant should be applied to the bore of the gearbox input shaft bearing, and the friction area and pressure disk should be treated with a clean cloth. Installing the disk in its place is performed by the protruding part facing the basket. The pre-marked marks on the casing and the flywheel are combined to prevent imbalance.

In the process of work, it is required to center the driven disk relative to the crankshaft axis. For this procedure, a special rule is applied (simulates the splined part of the input shaft), which should be easily removed after installation. The fastener bolts must be tightened uniformly alternately to prevent the casing from moving.

Like a chainsaw engine

Recently released devices feature a single-cylinder, two-stroke carburetor engine. It includes several mechanisms that work together. Main engine components:

  • Flywheel;
  • Communication
  • Incendiary module;
  • Muffler;
  • Mounting bushings.

The engine installed in the saw operates at a frequency of 13.5 thousand revolutions per minute, and therefore requires processing with high-quality oil. During operation, a high level of cooling system is required. The engine of the unit is equipped with a cooling system that supplies air to the cooling systems.

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how to unscrew chainsaw grip

for repair how to loosen the grip on the chainsaw for repair.

Chainsaw Clutch

The clutch of the device for processing wood is centrifugal and is activated automatically when the degree of revolutions of the engine crankshaft changes. If the revolutions are small, then the elements of the mechanism are pressed against the shaft. So the rotational motion is not transmitted to the sprocket. With an increase in speed, the elements sprawl and are pressed to the drum, thus making the chain spin.

The corresponding property of this type of device is braking during chain deceleration. So it turns out to avoid some damage. But all the same, this system is subjected to a large load, therefore, it is necessary to systematically carry out preventive inspection and repair.

How to take off

The drive sprocket also serves as a drum. The coil on the trimmer stopped rotating to remove it And if for the clutch cup. One of the main reasons for the breakdown of this block is the grinding of the sprocket teeth. In an integral embodiment of the drum, the chain can cut through the sprocket during operation. Such a mechanism asks for a substitution. In the case when there is a replaceable crown on the drum, it must be removed and changed during maintenance. Then the drum can work further.

When there is a need for repair, you should seek help from a service center where experienced specialists work. But if this is not near, the question arises. how can I remove the clutch without the help of others? If you have the necessary set of tools, you can easily implement your plan. Of course, there are some differences in the models of different companies, but the disassembly scheme remains unchanged:

  • First, the chain brake cover is removed by turning the lever. Slightly twist nuts to loosen chain tension. After loosening, you can completely unscrew the nuts and remove the cover;
  • The chain and the guide bar are disassembled, as well as the mechanism is cleaned of dirt;
  • The cylinder head candle is turned out and the piston is fixed. To do this, the crankshaft should be rotated until the outlet opens and then a piece of rope is placed in the cylinder to lock the piston. After completion of work, the rope is removed from the mechanism;
  • The nuts on the clutch are unscrewed with the special wrench from the kit. In this mechanism, they are made with left-hand thread, and this must be taken into account during dismantling. After that, the mechanism is disassembled, and all its parts are inspected for damage. Although I already have a trimmer in order to remove the clutch assembly once as in the photo. I hope my tips on how to remove the mowing head on the Black trimmer&Decker GL716 How to replace. Worn parts must be removed and replaced with new ones.

After repair and replacement of parts, it is necessary to assemble in the reverse order. The disassembly process is presented in more detail in the video.

To independently repair such chainsaws as Calm, Husqvarna, Partner, Goodluck, you need to know some features of the models. For example, on some varieties of saws, a washer is installed (between the cup of the drive sprocket and the engine). During assembly, it must be installed in its original place.

If the model has a special spring that transmits rotation to the pump drive, it is crucial that it is properly installed after repair. Otherwise, the device may be seriously damaged. After preventive and repair work, it is necessary to check whether the mechanisms are working properly.

Clutch repair on a VAZ car

The article describes in detail the process of disassembling, repairing and reassembling the clutch on a VAZ car.

The clutch performs one of the most important roles in the movement of the car and at the first manifestations of violations of its operation, it is necessary to immediately begin repair, otherwise inaction can lead to sad consequences, then it will take a lot more time and money to repair. Before removing this mechanism, you will need a clutch diagram, study it in detail for further repairs and the concept of the principle of operation.

We removed and repaired the clutch disc on a VAZ 2110 car, similar equipment is installed on 2111 and on later models of these machines, but on the VAZ 2112 car there are some differences and improvements, in particular, they were amenable to: the spring of the damper of the driven disk and the leading part of the clutch, but the essence of the repair remains similar.

Dismantling and repair of car clutch:

1. The first step is to dismantle the gearbox. The procedure needs patience, and without it it will be impossible to repair the clutch.

2. Install the mandrel into the center aisle of the disc. It can be made independently by the size of the existing shaft or use the input shaft instead, which was borrowed from another car.

3. Return one bolt that secures the gearbox into place, and use a long screwdriver to hold the handwheel so that it does not spin when the other bolts unscrew the six bolts that hold the clutch cover.

Now you can remove the flywheel in a complete set with a driven and push disk. When removing the clutch cover, the drive plate must be held inside it so that it does not fall out.

5. If you can visually see from the end of the driven disk that there is a distortion in its shape, then check the runout of the disk, and if it is more than half a millimeter, then this part must be completely changed.

6. Next, inspect the surface of the pressure plate and the flywheel; if gross abrasion of the disk (wear), deep scratches or bumps are noticed, the flywheel or pressure disk must be replaced with a new one. Grinding will not help!

7. Next, turn the cover over to the other side and continue the inspection:

  • 1. riveted joints of the pressure plate and the casing. They should not have weakenings and obvious defects, if there are any, then you have to change the disk in the kit.
  • 2. diaphragm springs of a pressure disk. They also should not be with obvious defects (deep scratches, cracks and chips), if defects are noticeable, then replace the entire casing.
  • 3. contacts petals diaphragm spring. All limbs (contacts) of metal lobes with clutch release bearings must be free of defects and in the same plane (maximum wear difference of 0.8 mm is allowed). If the wear is more than 0.8 mm or there are serious defects, then again there is only one way out. replace the drive in the kit.

8. Also, the pressure plate with the casing must be replaced as an assembly if the support rings of the pressure spring have undergone cracks, chips, or other physical changes.

9. If desired and possible in the garage, you can test the operation of the leading part of the clutch. To do this, it is necessary to fix the pressure plate (3) complete with the casing (2) and pressure spring (1) on equipment with an intermediate ring (4) whose thickness (B = 8.3 ± 0.03 mm). This equipment replaces the flywheel driven disk.

Now, three times with the switch-off path of 8–9 mm, disconnect the clutch by applying a load to the petals of the compression spring (1) at a diameter of C = 34 mm. Wherein:

  • size A should be between 29–31 mm;
  • check that the turn-off stroke of 8.0 ± 0.1 mm corresponds to a stroke of the pressure plate of at least 1.4 mm;
  • the difference in the magnitude of the waste pressure plate (3) not more than 0.25 mm;
  • the load on the petals of the pressure spring (1) on the diameter C with a stroke of 8.0 ± 0.1 mm should be no more than 1100 N (1350 N for the VAZ – 2112 clutch), the peak of the shutdown load no more than 1300 N (1500 N for the VAZ clutch –2112).

10. Before mounting the clutch back, it is necessary to check the free movement of the driven disk along the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox. If there are seizures, then eliminate them, if necessary, replace damaged parts.

11. When re-mounting the driven disk into the pressure housing, carefully watch so that part of the protruding hub looks towards the pressure spring.

12. From the side of the compression spring, a centering mandrel must be inserted into the slots of the driven disk.

13. In the photo, the arrows indicate the three centering pins, according to them, just like mine, you need to install the clutch on the flywheel, and then holding the screwdriver with the screwdriver to turn the screw, tighten the 6 bolts securing the clutch to the flywheel.

14. Now you can get the centering mandrel from the clutch disc and reinstall the gearbox. Clutch repair completed.

Clutch repair

In most cases, clutch repair is a rather difficult task, for the implementation of which the assistance of specialists may be needed. Conducting this event yourself is not recommended if you do not have the necessary design knowledge and experience. Depending on the problem, repair work may take only a few minutes. In the most difficult situations, you will need an assistant, a special place or a lift for quick access under the car. Below we talk about what are the symptoms of a failure of the clutch system and options for eliminating them.

Main breakdowns and their elimination

Clutch slippage when shifting gears. Clutch slippage is most evident when climbing uphill or on acceleration. Obvious signs of a malfunction are the specific smell and a significant increase in gas mileage. Some of the most common causes of this problem include:

Friction pad contamination VD or flywheel. These surfaces are subject to so-called oiling. Deposits can be easily removed with alcohol or gasoline, after the procedure the surfaces must be wiped dry. The cause of oiling may be leakage through the gearbox or oil seals.

Wear or deformation of friction linings VD, which rises at significant temperatures exceeding the permissible norm.

Clutch drive may also cause slippage. The mechanism may jam or be damaged. Repair requires replacing or replacing a part.

Partial engagement. The main symptoms appear when shifting gears. To change the forward speeds you need extra effort, the inclusion of reverse gear is accompanied by uncharacteristic noises. In this case, the gearbox is in good condition, without any malfunctions.

Incorrect drive adjustment, as a rule, it is corrected by adjusting the clutch cable, in the most difficult cases, by replacing the clutch fork.

Cable jam. If deformation is detected, the part is replaced; if there are none, the cable just needs to be lubricated.

Damage, development of friction linings, insufficiently riveted joint or end runout of VD over 0.05 mm. Correction of damage is possible only by replacing the disk with a new analogue.

Worn ND or flywheel. These problems are common among drivers who do not conduct timely diagnostics of machine components and mechanisms. The flywheel is recommended to be replaced. If a deformation of the pressure plate is detected, a new assembly should also be installed instead.

ND deformation or spring wear corrected by installing a new casing along with the pressure plate.

Hub sticking. One of the reasons for the partial engagement of the clutch can be hidden in the jamming of the hubs of the air disks on the splines of the gearbox shaft. Parts must be cleaned of dirt. Minor damage is repaired by file. In the most critical cases, the replacement of the input shaft of the gearbox or drive is required.

Jerks at the beginning of the movement

Cable jam. To eliminate the malfunction, it is enough to treat the cable with grease. In case of deformation, replace it.

Malfunctioning hubs VD on the splines of the shaft as a result of sticking. Clean all surfaces of the parts, and grind minor mechanical damage with a file. In case of detection of significant deformations or damage, the input shaft and disk are replaced.

Deformations and / or weak fixation. The cause of jerks at the beginning of the movement of the machine may be: deformation of the VD, a decrease in the strength of fastening of the plates, significant development or small cracks on their surface. In addition, deformation of the VD plates, failure of the damper springs or deformation of the cells under the springs is possible. All these problems are fixed by replacing damaged elements with new analogues.

Deformation of the flywheel or ND working surfaces. For correction it is recommended to replace the casing with the disk or the flywheel. In case of critical standing of both parts, replace all the above parts with new analogues.

Oiling friction lining surfaces. Clean contaminated parts with white spirit or gasoline. The source of oil should also be identified and eliminated. This could be damage to the seals or leak from the gearbox.

Extraneous noise in the process of engaging or disengaging the clutch. These malfunctions can occur with significant shrinkage or deformation of the damper spring or when the cells develop under the springs on the surface. A possible cause of the malfunction can also be a large deformation of the VD, insufficient fastening of the pads or their wear. Replace the disk to fix it.

Knock when the clutch is released, it occurs when the bearing is worn or destroyed. This problem may be accompanied by a grease leak; in such cases, bearing replacement is required.

Clutch repair VAZ-2107

To perform a clutch replacement, the machine should be installed above the inspection hole or use the flyover. To complete all the steps you will need a typical set of automotive tools. Before performing a VAZ-2107 clutch repair, you must disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.

Remove the propeller shaft. After that, disconnect the contacts of the reverse sensor.

Remove the casing located on the cylinder head. After this, dismantle the yoke.

Using a wrench, unscrew both nuts on the gearbox mount and remove it.

Then you need to remove the basket from the flywheel. Pry the box aside with a pry bar. After that, lay the transmission unit on the receiving tube. Using a mount (screwdriver), fix the flywheel, then unscrew the bolts on the clutch holding basket.

Having unscrewed the basket fasteners, gently push it with a mount and remove the disk. Following this, you can dismantle the basket itself.

To replace the new analogue of the release bearing located on the gearshift shaft, remove the plug. Assembly is implemented in the reverse order.