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A chainsaw is very convenient to work with. Despite the fact that the unit weighs 5-7 kilograms, or even more, sawing a tree trunk into logs, you are simply surprised how quickly this happens and there is practically no fatigue. But here comes the moment when the tool canvas enters the wood all the harder and harder. There is only one diagnosis. the saw is dull, so it is necessary to sharpen the chain of the chainsaw.
Whoever first encounters this is a little upset, because it is not clear: do it yourself or give the tool to specialists in the workshop. And what is the best way to sharpen? But in fact, there is nothing terrible here, and if you have the knowledge, you can easily sharpen chains of chainsaws with your own hands. The correct strategy for resolving the issue in this case directly depends on the load on the unit.
If a chainsaw is used from time to time, several times a year, then buying a special grinding machine or tools may not make sense, it is easier to solve the problem using the services of a service center. But if a chainsaw is a means of earning, or there is a desire to master the grinding process yourself, then you should definitely purchase a sharpener or a machine and manually carry out this simple chain manipulation. Let’s see below what the correct sharpening of a chainsaw chain is based on.
Signs of a dull chain and the consequences of continued operation
Do not confuse the difficulty of working with a blunt chainsaw with the difficulty of cutting hardwood or heavily dried logs. In all these cases, the speed of the operation is reduced, but a blunt instrument has a certain character of behavior. signs that can be used to judge the need for sharpening:
- the chainsaw does not immediately bite into the tree trunk, as it grinds, shifting from the point of contact;
- during the cutting of soft rocks, the instrument sluggishly enters the thickness of the wood;
- shavings from coarse with characteristic elongated particles turn into fine thyrsa, which very rarely crumbles;
- the chain heats up quickly, an unpleasant smell of burning oil is heard to lubricate the guide bar.
In addition to these alarms, always after a chain hits metal nails, a wire or a chainsaw buried in the ground, you can be 100% sure of the need for subsequent sharpening of the cutting edges.
What can happen to the tool in the future if you ignore the problem? The most harmless thing is that it will be impossible to work with a chainsaw, in the end it will bother and still force you to service the unit. But adherents of the saying “Strength is no need for mind” can come to the following result:
- excess load on the body, because, frankly, you have to put pressure on the tool to saw;
- overexpenditure of fuel up to 30%, which is explained by the need to go through a larger cycle of revolutions to achieve the same result;
- accelerated wear of tires and other parts of the chainsaw.
In addition to all these negative consequences of blunting the saw, there is a high probability of chain jamming in the trunk and injury to the operator performing the work.
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Sharpening angles and tooth configuration
In order to be able to sharpen chains correctly, the first thing to do is figure out which functional elements a single link consists of, or a cutting element:
- The base is the lower part of the tooth, which has openings for connection with other elements of the chain and during operation is hidden in the guide channel of the tire. This part is lubricated.
- A special limiter is a tooth construction element that allows the cutter to remove only a certain thickness of wood chips in one pass. Thanks to him, the chain does not get stuck in the fibers, and the chainsaw does not wedge.
- The so-called tooth blade is a cutter consisting of vertical and horizontal working surfaces that form cutting edges.
The tooth blades, or cutting edges, need to be sharpened at a certain angle, otherwise it will be difficult to achieve optimal sawing characteristics of the chain. The upper blade (horizontal) performs the function of cutting a tooth into the wood and forming a groove. A side or end blade (vertical) helps trim the fibers from the side.
The most important thing when sharpening a chainsaw is to achieve the correct angle of the upper blade, which should be between 60-50 degrees. The angle of the end blade is observed within 85-60 degrees. It is also worth sticking to the angle in the plan (the angle of sharpening), namely that which is clearly visible when you look at the chain link from above. it moves away from the side edge along the front line and should be 10-15 degrees.
The productivity of sawing wood in the transverse direction increases if you increase the angle of sharpening the chain of the chainsaw to the maximum possible and vice versa. Chains designed for longitudinal cutting of a tree trunk should be sharpened with an angle of about 10 degrees.
In no case should you touch the depth gauge once again: improper grinding can cause vibration during operation of the tool. Its refinement is done according to a special template.
Than manual sharpening is inferior to machine grinding
You can get used to and manually grind the chainsaw chains without too much difficulty. But here there are some nuances, because it is primarily not as effective as sharpening with a machine. The biggest disadvantages of manual grinding of chain cutting teeth:
- Difficulty maintaining the required angle. It is not necessary to think that only with the help of one round file you can sharpen the chain of the chainsaw, for this operation you will also need at least a special guide and a second flat file.
- Slow operation speed. It is necessary to fix the guide on the tooth, to manipulate it with a round file, check the limiter clearance if it is necessary to correct it with a flat file, and only then proceed to the next tooth.
- The need for experience. Despite various helpers for sharpening a chainsaw manually, you first need to feel the process, and for this you need some experience.
Stages of work with manual sharpening at home
You can grind chains at home using a special round file with a holder. To do this, observe the following stages of the operation:
- The tire with the chain is fixed with a vice so that its top line is in a horizontal position.
- Take the shortest tooth for the reference point and mark it with a marker or nitro enamel.
- The body of the round file is brought under the main cutting edge, pressing it to the corner along the entire line and at the same time pressing the holder to the tooth surface. Thanks to the holder, the round file will automatically take the desired position, speaking in relation to the upper plane of the tooth of the chainsaw.
- Confident in even movements from themselves, without changing the feed angle, they file two or three times with a file along the beveled surface of the upper cutting edge.
- Rotate the file along its axis so that the abrasive surface does not develop, and repeat the operation until the tooth is sharpened.
- After that, using the template for sharpening the chain, check the height of the limiter and, if necessary, grind it with a flat file.
- Then, after one tooth, the entire cycle of operations is repeated until they reach the initially marked tooth.
- Turn the tire over on the opposite side and grind through one all the other teeth of the chainsaw.
File Types and Selection Tips
As it has already become clear, it is necessary to select a file for sharpening the teeth of the chainsaw chains of round diameter and flat. Many manufacturers of motorized tools of this specificity, for the convenience of consumers, simultaneously produce sharpening sets, where such files are already present in the kit. But here, too, it is important not to make a mistake: for a particular chain you need a file of a suitable diameter. Its value is determined based on the pitch of the chain teeth.
Following the rules, before choosing files for sharpening the chain of the chainsaw, the exact mark is determined by the marking of the chain. Further adhere to the recommendations: