How to insert a drill into a bosch drill

How to insert a drill

Drilling metal

Next: Drilling process

Mounting of drills, reamers, countersinks and countersinks on drilling machines, depending on the shape of the shank, is carried out in three ways: directly in the tapered bore of the spindle, in adapter tapered bushings, in a drill chuck.

How to use drill machine || Bosch GSB RE kit -GUIDE

Tool holder directly in the tapered bore of the spindle. Tapered shanks of drills, reamers, countersinks, etc., as well as tapered holes in the spindles of drilling and other machines are made according to the Morse system. Morse cones are numbered 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; each number corresponds to a specific cone size. The numbers of the adapter sleeves are selected according to the size of the cones of the cutting tools. In the taper bore of the spindle, the taper shank is held in place by the frictional force between the tapered surfaces. The ponytail foot fits into the spindle groove and protects the shank from turning.

Fastening of the tool through adapter tapered bushings is carried out in cases where the taper of the tool shank is less than the taper of the spindle bore. Transitional tapered bushings (Fig. 220, b) are short and long. In fig. 220, c shows fastening of the tool using an adapter sleeve. A bushing with a drill is inserted into the hole of the machine spindle.

How To Change Drill Bit For Bosch First Time Users | Cordless | Wired | Hammer Models

Innovators Yu. M. Orlov and Yu. V. Kozlovsky proposed and manufactured transition sleeves from spring wire with a diameter of 2.5 mm (Fig. 220, d). The wire is wound on a special mandrel, then the outer surface is ground on a circular grinding machine. From the upper side, a plug is inserted into the sleeve, which serves to punch out the tool. The spring bushing is lighter and cheaper to manufacture than standard bushings. It does not rotate, which protects against scuffing. The sleeve is used on drilling and turning machines.

Removal of the tool from the tapered hole of the machine spindle is carried out using a wedge (Fig. 2, a) through the slot. In fig. 2, b shows a safe wedge with a spring used without a hammer.

The wedge for removing drills or adapter sleeves from the spindle of the drilling machine of innovator B. M. Gusev consists of a massive hollow handle, inside which there is a movable firing pin with a wedge, spring-loaded.

To remove the drill or adapter sleeve from the spindle, the wedge of the device is inserted into the groove of the spindle, and the handle is sharply moved. In this case, the spring is compressed and the bottom of the handle hits the wedge striker.

The force required to compress the spring is negligible, since it is only intended to move the handle back to its original position.

Fastening drills in chucks. Drills with a cylindrical shank are mounted in drill chucks, the main types of which are shown below.

In fig. 3 shows a three-jaw drill chuck in which the tools are held in place with a key. Inside the chuck body (Fig. 3) there are three oblique cams with threads connecting them to the nut. The holder rotates with a special key inserted into the hole in the cartridge body. When the cage rotates clockwise, the nut also rotates. The clamping jaws, going down, gradually converge and clamp the cylindrical shank of the drill or other tool. When the cage is rotated in the opposite direction, the cams, rising up, diverge and release the clamped tool.

In fig. 4, a, b shows a three-jaw self-centering chuck for fixing drills with a diameter of 2 to 12 mm with a tapered shank. A bushing with an external thread is screwed onto the threaded part of the shank, onto which the chuck body having an internal cone is screwed. When the body is turned clockwise, there are three cams pressed against it by springs. converge and clamp the drill.

Three-jaw chuck with tilting jaws provides more accurate and stable drill clamping. The cage is firmly mounted on a nut, on the inner cone of which there is a thread, and on the end there are bevel teeth. In the grooves of the chuck body there are three obliquely disposed cams; on their outer sides, a thread is also cut, which is connected to the thread of the nut. When the cage is turned with a special wrench that has tapered teeth at the end and is inserted into the hole, the cams converge or diverge, clamping or releasing the drill.

Plants produce three standard sizes of chucks with inclined cams: PS-6, PS-9, PS-15 (the number in the brand indicates the largest diameter of the drill clamped by the chuck).

The collet is used to clamp small diameter drills with a cylindrical shank in drilling machines. Collet chucks provide reliable, precise tool clamping. The body of the collet chuck has a shank for fixing the machine spindle in the cone and a threaded part, onto which a nut 6 is screwed, having flats for a wrench on the side. The collet is mounted on the cone. When screwing the nut onto the threaded part of the collet, it compresses and fixes the drill shank.

Quick change cartridges. When machining parts in which it is necessary to sequentially drill, countersink, reamer, thread, etc., you have to frequently change the cutting tool, which takes a lot of time. To reduce the time for changing tools, quick-change chucks are used. Known quick-change cartridges with leading balls and leader. In fig. 226, 6 shows a quick-change chuck with leading balls used for light work. It is structurally simple and allows tool change without stopping the machine spindle. The chuck body is fixed with a shank in the machine spindle. In the cylindrical bore of the body there is a replaceable sleeve with a tool seat. The rotary movement from the cartridge body to the sleeve is transmitted by two balls located in the transverse seats of the body. To replace the sleeve with the cutting tool, the rotation of the cage is suspended by taking it by the corrugated surface, and the cage is raised up to the stop in the spring ring embedded in the groove of the body. Downward movement of the cage is limited by the second spring washer.

How to correctly insert and pull the drill into a hammer drill, screwdriver and drill

The popularity of the question of how to insert a drill into a hammer drill or an electric drill is explained quite simply: such devices are actively used both in industrial and domestic conditions.

The cartridges are different, as well as the attachments fixed in them.

An incorrectly installed drill can lead to a number of problem situations:

• inability to work with a hammer drill or drill;
• obtaining uneven holes with a broken inner surface;
• the drill will fly out, which can lead to serious injury.

Despite the fact that it is not so difficult to insert a drill into a hammer drill or drill, this issue should be approached responsibly.

Installing the working tool on the hammer drill

As mentioned above, the hammer drill must be checked for operability before installing the drill. To perform this check, the working mode of the rock drill is set to drilling without knocking. If, after pressing the start button of the device, you hear and feel that its engine is running smoothly and without jolts, then the hammer drill can be used for its intended purpose, having previously inserted a drill or drill into it.

To mount a drill with a cylindrical shank in the hammer drill, use an adapter with a jaw-type chuck

Before inserting the drill into the hammer drill, it is necessary to treat the shank of the working tool with a special grease that will protect it from corrosion. The very procedure for installing the drill into the hammer drill is as follows.

• The rotary hammer is installed with its back on the floor or other hard surface.
• The movable part of the clamping device is pulled back.
• The tool is inserted into the punch until it stops. In this case, the drill or drill, which must be inserted into the hammer drill, must be held vertically. If you neglect this requirement, you may be faced with the fact that the tool will fly out or even break, and this can also lead to failure of the hammer drill itself.

Press until it clicks, then pull the drill, if it is not removed, everything is fine

Given the fact that the chucks on modern rock drills differ in a fairly simple principle of operation, there are usually no questions about how to get the drill out of the hammer drill.

Having removed the used tool from the punch in order to replace it with another, it is advisable to immediately clean its shank from grease and construction dust. However, the drill shank you intend to insert must also be cleaned and pre-lubricated. A tool replaced in this way will not harm the clamping mechanism of the hammer drill and will last much longer.

Lubrication extends the life of both the drill itself and the rock drill

Using a perforator, you can not only get a drilled structural element, but also perform processing using a special chisel. You can also install a mixer as a working element of such a device.

DIYers often also have questions about how to insert a drill into a screwdriver or how to change a chuck on a hammer drill. The solution to the first question is quite simple, since the design of the screwdriver uses cartridges of the same design as on drills and hammer drills. But the question of how to correctly replace a cartridge on a perforator should be approached competently: it is not easy to perform such a procedure without having certain knowledge and skills.

Correct installation of the drill in the drill chuck

Before figuring out how to properly install the drill into the hammer drill, it is advisable to figure out how to insert the drill into the drill. The chuck is the element of its design, in which the drill shank is fixed. Most models of modern drills are equipped with cam-type chucks, consisting of:

• cylindrical bodies;
• rings or sleeves that rotate around the outer surface of the body;
• cams installed in the inside of the housing.

Jaw chuck design

When the sleeve is rotated clockwise, the cams simultaneously approach each other, thereby reliably clamping the shank of the drill to be installed. Accordingly, the question of how to pull the drill out of the drill is not difficult to solve: it is enough to start rotating the sleeve counterclockwise. This will cause the jaws to open, making it easy to remove the drill from the drill. It should be borne in mind that before installing the drill, the jaws should be unclenched with a margin, in which case the tool can be easily inserted.

The convenience of using cam-type chucks lies not only in the efficiency and high reliability of the tool installation, but also in the fact that drills of almost any diameter can be inserted into them. When using such chucks, there is usually no difficulty in changing the drill bit in the drill. Correctly inserted tools are held securely in these chucks and allow a precise hole to be drilled.

If you begin to notice slipping of the teeth when tightening the chuck, replace the worn-out wrench with a new one.

Jaw chucks are used in both industrial and household drilling tools. Clamping devices for household drills are available for two ranges of drill diameters: from 0.8 to 10 and from 1.5 to 13 mm.

The design of jaw chucks can provide for two different ways of clamping the tool: key and keyless.

In the first case, the sleeve is actuated using a special key, on the tapered working part of which there are teeth. The key, to activate the clamping mechanism, must be inserted into the holes on the side of the chuck body and rotated. There may even be three such holes in some models. Accordingly, in order to loosen or clamp the cams, the key must be inserted into each of them and start rotating counterclockwise or along it.

After loosening the cams with a wrench, it is necessary to turn counterclockwise and the chuck itself, which will increase the distance between the cams to the required value. The inserted tool is fixed in the reverse order: first, the chuck itself is clamped (when it rotates clockwise), and then the sockets are clamped with a key.

Removing and installing drills is much easier and faster when using the keyless chuck. In it, the sleeve is actuated by manually rotating it. To limit the retraction force of the cams, they are often equipped with locking elements.

Before inserting the drill, first make sure the drill is in working order and disconnect the power supply. Only then can you start installing the drill.

Varieties of keyless chucks

A Few Tips for Using a Drilling Tool

In order not to face the fact that a flying tool or concrete chips will harm your health, drilling work must be performed in compliance with all safety measures. Safety goggles, gloves, ear plugs or ear muffs should be used to ensure this safety. Naturally, all work must be performed in special clothing, in which there should be no hanging elements that can wind around the drill.

To prevent overheating of the electric tool used for drilling, it is necessary to regularly rest it. It is very important to insert the drill correctly (this must be done up to the stop of the tool).

Two ways to clamp the fine drill into the chuck if the jaws are slightly short of the shank

If the drill gets stuck in the wall during drilling, it should be removed without removing the tool from its surface. To do this, the drill must be removed from the punch and insert another, with the help of which it is necessary to begin to destroy the wall around the drill stuck in it.

If the drill is not removed from the drill or hammer drill, then it must be clamped in a vice, and then with a hammer, using a wooden spacer, knock on the cams of the clamping mechanism. Oil can help in this matter, a few drops of which are poured into a key type cartridge.

Keyless drill removal

Key chucks have a definite advantage. the fixation of the drill is very powerful, but there is also a drawback. it is necessary to have a key at hand. If the key is not in place, it is quite easy to make up for this deficiency. You will need to find an object that can fix the cartridge on one side. This can be a nail, Phillips screwdriver, screw, hexagon of a suitable size. To the second half, you need to make an effort with your hands and try to untwist it. this way it is possible to pull out the drill without a key. But if you can’t handle it with your hands, you can use a vice or a large gas wrench of a suitable size.

Replacing the drill

To carry out this procedure, you first need to get the old drill according to the scheme described above, and then put a new one. Electric drills with keyless chucks often have problems due to the fact that the drill is firmly seated and it is not possible to unscrew the coupling. In this case, you can use a piece of cloth that will give more grip on the clutch and try to unscrew it. If this method does not help, then you need to firmly fix the drill with your hand and hit the chuck tangentially in the direction of unwinding with the palm of your other hand, continuing to fix the tool.

How to insert a drill into a drill?

This operation is simple and quick, however some rules must be followed. Step-by-step instructions will keep you safe while setting the drill into the drill.

• Disconnect the instrument from the mains.
• Then choose a suitable drill, taking into account the nature of the work, the material in which the hole will be made and the compatibility of the drill with the drill.
• Place the drill into the chuck with the shank inward.
• Then the cartridge should be fixed, taking into account its appearance. If it is key, then fix it with a special key with teeth, if it is quick-clamping, then fix it with your hands.
• After the drill is locked, make sure that it does not wobble in the chuck and that there is no play.
• Then you can get to work.

It should be noted that the choice of drills depends on your electric drill. There are various models with a variety of technical equipment and capabilities. Some drills cannot, for example, be used for metal work. Others. allow the installation of drills with a diameter of 0.8 to 10 mm or 1.5 to 13 mm. It is not recommended to buy cheap drills made of low-quality metal, it is better to overpay, but make sure that the tool works properly and for a long time.

Troubleshooting

In situations where the drill is used only for narrowly targeted purposes and from time to time, users tend to send it for repair at the first problems that arise. However, in most cases, it is enough to be able to bypass the non-standard situations that have arisen. To troubleshoot minor problems, you need to know how to change the drill, whether it can be done without a key and how to act if it gets stuck.

How to remove a drill bit from a drill?

If you need to change a drill that has become unusable, or due to a change in the nature of the work, you need to put another one, then the process is even simpler than when setting the drill.

In this case, there is also a step-by-step instruction.

• Turn off and de-energize the electric drill.
• Depending on the chuck, use a wrench or turn the sleeve by hand, turning it counterclockwise, thereby loosening the chuck. Avoid touching the drill bit, as it may remain hot for a while after use.
• After removing the previous drill from the chuck, change it to another and continue working or put the tool away for storage.

If you cannot turn the cartridge the first time, do not rush to the workshops, most often it is enough just to put in more effort.

Subtleties of operation

Electric drills began to appear at the end of the 19th century almost immediately after the invention of electric motors. The main task of the introducing tool with a percussion mechanism was the drilling of various holes in materials using electricity and rotating drills at high speed.

Already from the description it is clear: in order to use such a tool, you need to follow certain safety rules.

• Before starting work, it is imperative to inspect: a drill, so that there are no open electronic (live) parts; the wire going to the network so that it is not damaged; a plug so that it is solid and working; the outlet so that it is serviceable and tightly seated in the wall. In this case, the plug must be firmly inserted into the outlet and there must be no sparks.
• Insert the drill into the drill as tightly as possible.
• Select the required mode: drilling (twisting the drill at high speed) or drilling (drilling using a hammer mechanism).
• Select the maximum torsion speed of the drill.
• After making a hole of the required diameter and length, press the off button, and then remove the plug from the socket, so as not to accidentally start the tool when not required.

It is worth noting that there are functional drills that recognize the diameter of the drill, have stops for fixing the desired drilling depth, have handles for greater fixation of the tool in the hand, and automatically change the drilling speed. Such functional drills require additional settings so that the automation does not fail at the most inopportune moment.

The drills are selected in accordance with the requirements for the work being carried out. But it must be remembered that they are different, and some drills do not fit a particular drill.

Here the main role is played by the tool holder, which is:

The first option assumes that the user has a special key that can be used to loosen the cartridge. To do this, you need to use the hole on the drill and turn the key counterclockwise or turn it clockwise, and thus clamp it. Often this key is attached to the drill, which reduces the likelihood of losing it and allows you to remove the key from the mount and use it at any time.

The second option is something different because the quick-release can be:

• single-seat;
• double-clutch.

If you use a single sleeve chuck, you only need one hand to clamp, and the second option is a little more complicated: you have to clamp one sleeve, and with the other hand, turn the other sleeve. Both options save time, but the retention is much worse than using a key chuck.

How to insert the drill into the drill correctly and how to remove it?

• Subtleties of operation
• How to insert a drill into a drill?
• How to remove a drill bit from a drill?
• Troubleshooting
• Replacing the drill
• Keyless drill removal
• The drill is stuck

In any living space, sooner or later, a situation arises when something needs to be redone: hang a picture, screw on shelves or make wiring. But most of the concrete and brick walls cannot be pierced with a nail and a screw cannot be screwed into them. Therefore, you have to resort to using an electric drill. This is a convenient device that allows you to make a hole in the wall of the required diameter thanks to a variety of drills: for concrete, metal, glass, plastic, tiles or wood. But for the successful use of an electric drill, you should know the basic rules for using this tool.

The drill is stuck

There are situations when after completion of work it is not possible to remove the drill. Neither unwinding the couplings by hand, if the chuck is keyless, nor the key, if the chuck is key, helps. You tried to turn on the drill and, using reverse, tried to reach the object, but it did not work. We fixed the drill firmly and tried to loosen the cartridge with tangential blows, but this did not bring the desired result. So it’s time to turn to more massive equipment.

There are not so many ways to remove the drill from the drill:

• Vise and gas wrench. The method involves the use of two gas wrenches or one wrench and a vise. It is necessary to firmly fix one half, and try to shift the other with a key.
• Vise and hammer. One half is fixed in a vice, and the other half moves from a dead center with tangential hammer blows. With the help of the generated vibrations and sharp point effects, it is possible to solve the problem.

If the methods above did not work, then you can completely unscrew the chuck together with the drill, fix it in a vice and, picking up a screwdriver or some metal rod of the required diameter, knock the drill out of the chuck.

For information on how to properly fix the drill in the drill, see the next video.

The cartridge is clamped in a vise or held tightly with a gas wrench. The shaft is inserted into the hole, and then, using muscle force, unscrew or twist the mechanism.

The second method can help if the cartridge is clogged with chips. Then his body is clamped in a vice and lightly tapped with a hammer. Vibration causes part displacement and wedge mechanism.

Makita DF030DWE

A household model of a shockless type of one of the most popular brands of power tools with a voltage of 10.8 volts and a lithium battery capacity of 1.3 ampere-hours. The charging time is only half an hour. The torque (maximum) is 24 Newton meters, the rotation speed is 1300 rpm. The speed control system is electronic, there is a reverse. Device weight. 0.88 kilograms.

Pros of Makita DF 030 DWE

• Light weight, in the hand the tool lies like a fluff.
• Cartridgeless design (allows you to save time and money, since cartridges are quite expensive).
• The presence of a shortened base.
• Dimensions allow you to reach even those places that are difficult to access.
• Comfortable holster, two batteries and a plastic box for small parts included.
• It is possible to adjust the power.
• Fast battery charging.

• Low battery capacity.
• There is axial play in the spindle.
• Drilling holes is problematic.
• The price is far from budget.
• The resource of an expensive (six-tenths of the device’s cost) battery is two to three years.
• It is very difficult to change the bat with one hand.
• No loop to hang. Holster only.
• The device is sensitive to dust and dirt, important parts can become clogged.
• Slightly underestimated illumination for the working area.

Removing a drill from a damaged chuck

Here we will also talk about cases when the drill itself is damaged.

Damage is usually in the form of a broken cam or damaged threads. It also happens that the drill is damaged, for example, by rolling between the cams. As a result of this, chips are formed, which interfere with normal rotation, since they are clogged in different slots, which prevents rotation.

So, for starters, you can try to relax your fists. This can be done again with the help of two gas keys or one in cooperation with a vice.

In the first case, each part of the chuck is clamped with its own key and rotation is performed for unscrewing. In the second, fixing one of the parts is no longer carried out with a key, but with a vice. Since this creates a large enough force, unlocking is quite easy.

In addition, in the absence of a gas wrench, you can clamp one part in a vise, and apply gentle blows with a hammer along a tangent to the other. Relaxation occurs due to the generated vibration.

If the previous methods do not help, for example, due to the fact that the thread on the cams is torn off, then you will have to resort to the next point.

First, you will need to twist the chuck from the electric drill. I have already described how to do this on this page. Then we clamp it in a vice and knock out the drill from the inside with a punch of a suitable diameter, which is threaded through the hole into which the spindle is inserted.

How to correctly insert a drill into a screwdriver, hammer drill, drill

Safety engineering

Before using the screwdriver, be sure to read about the safety precautions in the memo attached to the tool. This tool is often used in production. As a rule, the instruction “How to use a screwdriver” must be mandatory in labor protection acts.

In order to prevent accidents when working with a screwdriver, you must follow all safety rules. Do not trust the tool to people who do not know how to use a screwdriver and cannot follow safety precautions.

For example, children, the elderly, sick people and people under the influence of alcohol.

Please wear protective clothing and goggles before using this tool. Remember that any tool, whatever it may be, is source of danger.

How to use a screwdriver battery

Before starting work, make sure that the battery of your screwdriver is fully charged.

Insert it into the charger and pay attention to the indicator. A green light indicates that the battery is charged

The red indicator light indicates that it needs to be charged.

In order to increase the operating time of the screwdriver, it is enough to have a second battery. After the first is discharged and you replace it with the second, insert the first into the charger.

Also, the temperature of the room in which the screwdriver is operating is too hot or too cold has a detrimental effect on the battery life. One battery lasts five hours.

How to use a screwdriver: step by step instructions

Each person at least once in his life made repairs at his home or performed work related to the repair of his apartment or summer cottage. Today, a screwdriver is an indispensable assistant in repairs. When buying it, be sure to find out the power, equipment, as well as the warranty period for this power tool.