How To Make A Booth For A Small Dog
Everyone has his own attitude towards our smaller “brothers”, but everyone knows about the dedication of dogs, in many cities there are even monuments to them, and they love them. Therefore, breaking into the summer spaces and taking off the apartment conventions, we get a pet, a lop-eared or docked, a decorative or “calf”, always faithful, guarding and loving us. And love must be answered with love, so today we are building a kennel to our pet. Not a place somewhere under the porch or in an inverted box, namely the booth, built on the anthropological data of our pet. I will try not to learn how to drive a nail or wrap a screw, paying more attention to the habits and psychology of dogs, so that the housing would be, as they say, not only at the right time, but also according to the “soul”.
I would suggest starting construction of a kennel with a choice of location, since it is desirable that the booth be an element of the dacha landscape and harmonize with the house and outbuildings. In addition to this, the dog is a guard who needs a good overview of the protected objects. If this is a gate or entrance to the house, then they must be constantly in their field of vision. It is better to choose the south side, everyone loves the sun, and in the winter cold it is so necessary for those who are constantly in the air. But the strong sun "breaks through" any insulation, therefore it is also necessary not to forget about the shade for the watchman. Dampness is not allowed for dogs, so rainwater should not stagnate, for which drainage is improved or elevation is chosen. There are a lot of contradictory requirements, therefore, with their tail, they wag them with pleasure, the dog will appreciate your thoroughness of choice at this stage.
Then we arm ourselves with a soft meter and take several measurements of the dog. If you make a small booth, then it will be there tight and cold, even from the warmed walls. And if you build a spacious or for growth, it is also bad, they only heat their homes with breathing. We measure the height of the dog at the withers, it will be the smallest height of the kennel, it simply cannot be lower. Then we need the length of the dog, which is called from the nose to the tip of the tail, this is the inner length of the booth, to which another 10-15 cm is added. The width of the room is also added to the width of the dog at the shoulders. A comfortable volume is considered to be where the dog can lie down, stretched out at full length, the diagonal of the kennel allows it. After completing the measurements, they select a kennel design, with a lean-to roof, for example, a gable, with a tambour, etc. Then they choose the material, they fix it all on paper, they buy it and they start to implement it.
A tree is closer to me, so I start with the assembly of shields. As a carrier material there will be bars, on which the block house board is fixed. The rear wall and the front wall with an offset entrance are fastened to two identical side walls. After assembling the box, which looks much like a small blockhouse, the insert bottom is made – the floorboard is nailed to the lags through a waterproofing layer. I pause and explain my choice. The bottom must breathe so that the dampness does not appear, therefore the height of the lag provides airflow and ventilation. The site itself is already filled with rubble and sand, so this, the height of the lag is enough. The floorboard has a tongue and groove crest connection, which eliminates blowing from the bottom, and the waterproofing layer cuts off moisture. In winter, I lay a “warm” bedding on the floor, usually made of batting or padding polyester, where the pet feels quite comfortable. Dogs love to “lay” themselves, so I shoot the litter to the floor with a mounting bracket. Flooring floors, they try not to leave any gaps, so that the claws of the animal would not get stuck in them. I do not insulate the walls, since almost all dogs are adapted to stay on the air year-round. They are only afraid of drafts. Nobody interferes, collecting shields, to put insulation between the bars and sew up plywood on top, to make a so-called sandwich, but some spider got under the insulation and the “beast” tore all the inner lining, extracting it. The thickness of the block – house is sufficient, and the tongue-and-groove connection excludes blowing, so it did not warm it up, excluding only drafts. Corner bars also prevent the blowing and additional sealing of the joint is not required.
One of the conditions for the "correctness" of the kennel should be a removable roof to process inside, disinfect and this is the way to evacuate, for example, a sick animal. Therefore, a double-sided roof with a ceiling is made separately and is inserted inside, relying on the corner bars specially shortened for this purpose. The pediment of the roof is trimmed with a clapboard, from which a small door is knocked down, through which a heater is filled in, sawdust with clay. By the way, the attic space I have used to store dog trifles, all bowls and even a leash there. The roof is made of profile metal, with a ridge and even the carved ohlupen filled.
Long wondered whether to make the entrance door for the dog or not? Life prompted her to be needed, although the dog knows both the leash and the chain. Made it separately, from the same scraps of a block house, though it hung not on hinges, but on rubber cut from a car chamber and imitating forged hinges. Outwardly, it turned out very beautiful.
I want to finish the article with coloring, which is done only outside. The dog for a long time sniffed at the defensive finish, but not finding it inside calmed down and moved.
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