How to make a carriage for a circular do-it-yourself

Installation of walls

So, the base is ready and then the thrust walls are installed on it. For this, two wooden blocks are taken: one of them is rigidly, with the help of self-tapping screws, fixed along the edge closest to the master so that it is strictly perpendicular to the cutting edge of the saw blade; the second is fixed along the top edge, but only on one side. This is necessary so that the master can align this wall strictly parallel to the lower one. The operation is performed using a square.

After the walls are aligned, a test cut is made. It has two purposes. with its help, holes are cut in the walls and base of the carriage, and after measuring the sawn workpiece, they check whether the right angle of the cut is correct.

Important. The height of the walls must be sufficient so that the cutting edge enters them no more than half of it, otherwise the carriage may break during operation. and this is an unjustified risk when working with a circular saw.

Required tools

In order to design a carriage for a circular saw with your own hands and then use it comfortably in a home workshop, first of all, you should prepare a set of materials and tools for its manufacture:

• Stationary circular saw on the sawing table;
• an electric screwdriver or drill, as well as a hand router;
• Mounting glue. epoxy will do;
• Hacksaw or angle grinder. you may need to saw off protruding parts of the structure;
• Self-tapping screws to secure parts of the product;
• The metal nuts are smaller in diameter than the thickness of the profile hole. they will be poured into it for a short time;
• 2 U-shaped channels made of metal (for example: aluminum);
• Two slats made of plywood or wood. they will serve as guides. In thickness, they should freely enter the U-hole of the profile;
• Square thin plywood plank for the base;
• Two wooden walls. for the manufacture of thrust walls of the carriage.

Reference. Additionally, it is recommended to keep a vacuum cleaner “ready” to blow the structure from shavings and wood “dust” after sawing or drilling.

Instructions: do-it-yourself circular carriage

To simply saw a tree for kindling or to make longitudinal profiles for cladding or construction in a home workshop. one stationary “circular” will be enough for the master. If he needs to perform a series of more serious carpentry manipulations and make a more accurate cut, straight or with angles, he uses a carriage.

This tool is a clamp moving on a special “slide” for wooden blanks or blanks, which, with the help of small tips, can be easily made by every craftsman.

Step-by-step instruction

So, the design details and the necessary tools are selected, you can proceed to the assembly and subsequent installation of a homemade carriage.

Carriage base fabrication

Next, the movable base of the trimming carriage is designed. For this, two strips are taken, which, in thickness, freely enter the U-shaped groove. But there is one moment. the carriage should freely “slide” on the table, and for this it is raised by 2-3 mm above the table. To do this, nuts of the same thickness are laid out in the profile grooves at an equal distance, after which guide rails are laid on them.

Then glue is applied to them, which fixes the plywood base strip. To press it more tightly, you can fasten the clips on the sides.

When the resin dries, the nuts are removed from the profile grooves and the foreman checks whether the carriage can move freely along them. After that, for the convenience of further use, the carriage is cut on the sides along the table profile.

Making a Combo Miter Square

So, a regular straight-through carriage is ready, but what if the craftsman needs to saw through something at a different angle, for example 60, 40 or 30 degrees? For such operations, you will need an additional structural element, which is called a “combined square”.

The name is not accidentally put in quotation marks. the fact is that the base of the blank is indeed a square wooden platform. It is cut out so that it fits freely between the stops of the main carriage and one of the sides is fixed at the bottom wall.

After that, the workpiece is cut, cutting out fragments from it at the desired angles. the resulting bevels will be the guides along which the part that needs to be cut at this angle is laid.

After manufacturing, the “square” is rigidly mounted (with glue or self-tapping screws) on the carriage. Another, more advanced option. in the square and the base of the carriage, with the help of a router, rounded grooves are cut out, which allow the square to move along the base on a movable latch. It is made of a screw, a nut and two metal washers.

A detailed video on how to make a miter carriage described above:

Fastening aluminum profiles

Since the carriage will “run on the saw table,” the first thing to do is the guide grooves. To do this, take two U-shaped profiles, approximately equal to the length of the table. You can adjust the dimensions with an angle grinder.

At the same distance from the location of the cutting disc, circulars draw two mowing lines parallel to it. Then, with the help of a hand mill, U-shaped holes are cut through them, shavings are blown out of them and with the help of glue the professional pipes are fixed in them. After the glue dries, the grooves are ready.

Nuances at work

In conclusion, we will give a few subtleties that are useful to know if you want to make a homemade carriage for a circular saw:

• It is recommended to install a thick block on the support wall in the place where the disc passes through it, which will prevent the saw from jumping out of the edge of the wall, which can lead to injury.
• In order to give the structure more sliding, it is recommended to clean the runners with sandpaper, and periodically lubricate the grooves with a candle stub (from paraffin or stearin). Sometimes wax is taken, but it is not recommended to use it, since melting during operation, it sticks to the runners.
• Before applying glue to parts, blow out particles of wood dust and shavings from the structure to avoid unevenness after gluing.
• After sawing through the walls, make sure the saw goes through them freely. To do this, you can make a sawn hole slightly larger than the thickness of the disc.

Important. The master, no matter how experienced he is, should not forget that a circular saw is a unit of increased injury risk, therefore, when making a carriage and working on a saw with its help, you should always be careful and accurate and remember about safety.

Having made an end carriage in such a simple way in a home workshop, the master will have an easy-to-use, universal tool at hand that can be used in most types of carpentry work.

How to make a simple circular saw carriage

Hello dear readers and homemade products!

When working on a circular saw, it is quite often possible to cut out small parts, observing an angle of 90 degrees. In this case, the rip fence is not a very good helper, and you have to use additional devices in order to work comfortably and safely.

In this article, Glen, author of the DIY Creators YouTube channel, will show you how to make one of the cross carriage options. It is equipped with an adjustable side stop, which allows you to quickly cut workpieces of the same size.

Such a carriage is quite simple to make, even in a small carpentry workshop, using the same circular saw and an electric screwdriver.

Materials. necessary for DIY.— Thick plywood — T-track — T-track slider — Adjustable corner stop for T-track — T-bolts — Bakelite wing nuts — Slotted furniture nuts — Self-adhesive measuring tape — Wood glue, acrylic lacquer, sandpaper, wood screws.

Instruments. used by the author.— Circular saw, saw blades — electric screwdriver, wood drills— Electric nayler — Orbital sander — Set of silicone glue application tools — F-clamps — Adjustable combination ruler 3 in 1, Swenson’s angle — Tape measure, pencil, brush. screwdriver.

Manufacturing process. So, the main material for the carriage will be 20 mm plywood. It should be borne in mind that the maximum overhang of the saw blade will decrease to the same height. First of all, the author cuts off two strips for the base of the carriage and the stop.

Both strips are shortened in length, and at the same time their ends are aligned.

The strip intended for the stop is dissolved in two parts. One part should be wider than the other by the thickness of the plywood used (in this case, 20 mm).

ULTIMATE PANEL SAW PART 2 OF 2

The base of the carriage will be embedded T-rail, for which you need to cut the landing groove. Saw blade lowers to T-track height.

Now, by sliding the rip fence towards the saw blade, and, in several passes, cut a groove for the guide along the entire width of the base.

The T-track should sit snugly in place and be flush with the top surface of the base.

Both strips of the stop are glued together. To avoid displacement of the elements, the master shoots them with studs using nailer.If you do not have a nailer, you can use a simple trick. After applying the glue, a very small amount of coarse salt crystals are poured onto one of the parts. So, during compression with clamps, the parts will not float relative to each other. The salt will dissolve quickly enough and the possible gap will disappear.

Glue is applied to both edges of the formed “step”, and the stop is pressed against the edge of the base.

Here the author drives in only one nail near the corner (from the side of the sole of the base at close range), and pulls the parts together with clamps.

Already during gluing, it is worth checking the angle formed by the stop and the base. It must be strictly 90 degrees.

This carriage is specifically designed for 90-degree cuts, although it will be based on adjustable crosscut fence with T-track guide.Here you can do without an adjustable stop, simply rigidly fastening the rail to the bottom of the carriage. The angle of the stop is set at 90 degrees to the saw blade using Svenson’s square.

Having placed the carriage in the position in which it will work, the author marks the centers of the holes for the fasteners.

On the reverse side of the stop (side of the carriage), a couple of holes are drilled, screwed into them mortise furniture nuts, and already in them. a couple of screws.

The carriage can now be secured to the stop.

Further, in one or two passes (without shifting to the sides), a working slot is formed both in the base and in the lower part of the bead. The height of the side must be sufficient to ensure the rigidity of the structure.

Two strips 2-3 mm long are cut from the T-shaped guide, shorter than the grooves in the carriage. This is to prevent them from getting caught on the saw blade.

From the cut of the plywood strip, the master glues the L-shaped part of the side limiter.

Marking the middle line of the T-track on the workpiece, a hole for the pressure bolt is drilled in this place.

The hole is inserted T-bolt, a washer is thrown over it, and the wing nut is screwed on. The head of the T-bolt is pushed into the groove and the side stop is ready.

DIY Pallet Wagon

All surfaces of finished parts are sanded with an orbital machine and covered with acrylic varnish.

After the varnish has dried, the grooves are installed T-tracks, and screwed with countersunk self-tapping screws.

For the convenience of adjusting the limiter, you need to apply markings, or just glue self-adhesive measuring tape.

The “zero” of the band must be exactly on the edge of the saw blade slot.

To check the carriage, the master cuts a square piece.

Round pouf | LAYOUT capitoné | DIY furniture

As a result, all angles are exactly 90 degrees, which is required from this carriage.

Additional stops can be fixed to the carriage stop using clamps. You can also place another T-track on the stop. this will expand the functionality of the carriage. Also, the author recommends moving the T-track at the base closer to the stop. This will reduce the backlash of the side stop.

Thanks to Glen for the simple design of the circular saw carriage.

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Variety of colors for the insulation of electrical cables

The color coding of wires is diverse and varies greatly for grounding, phase and neutral conductors. To avoid confusion, the requirements of the PUE regulate what color the ground wire should be used in the power panel, which colors must be used for zero and phase.

If the installation work was carried out by a highly qualified electrician who knows modern standards for working with electrical wires, you will not have to resort to using an indicator screwdriver or a multimeter. The purpose of each core of the cable is deciphered by the knowledge of its color designation.

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Saw blade assembly

There was little left to do. An electric circular saw is located inside the prepared hole. The sole is bolted, and the toothed accumulator must fit freely into the socket.

The circular saw table is almost complete. Now it must be treated with a material that protects against moisture, then varnished in several layers (to minimize slipping).

The resulting system can be supplemented with anything at the discretion of the user (protective cover, device for adjusting the disc tilt, carriage, etc.).

Recommendations from professionals

Now you know how to make a machine from a hand-held circular saw, so consider the advice of the masters:

• Before using an electric saw on the machine, check the saw blade with a square, because some unscrupulous manufacturers do not put the blade exactly the floor at an angle of 90 degrees, which is why the cuts turn out to be beveled.
• If during work you plan to use a table for storing tools on it, then the dimensions of the table top should be more than 1 m2.
• Use durable and high quality materials to create the machine, because otherwise it will not last long.
• The table can be supplemented, for example, craftsmen sometimes manage to attach to it a special vacuum cleaner or a riving knife with a protection for discs, so that residues from cutting wood and shavings do not fly on all sides.
• In advance, you should choose a place for mounting the table, and also make sure that the floor where the table will stand is perfectly flat.
• If you have the skills and desire, then you can make a folding tabletop, but here you will need to spend more effort, time and materials.
• If the table vibrates or sways during operation, then you should adjust the height of the legs with rubber.

Since the circular saw is an electrical device, it is worth working with specialists. Moving the switch to another place should also be trusted only by specialists.