How to make a chainsaw knife. How to disassemble the chainsaw tire

How to make an original knife from a chainsaw tire

Disturnt resistant. Yes, but where, at least, at least the Urals had a lot of bent ones.The iron from the old Rubank is much better

In the late 70s of the last century, it was considered good. Over, the best of the first issues was considered the best, without slots.

In the late 70s of the last century, it was considered good

Now the quality is not very stable. Maybe there is enough for a long time, or maybe a plasticine get caught and flatten on the first day.

I’m reading such topics and quietly so oh@I eat. The people that became Narmal?In any Hozhant, the canvas of the rubbish or furpil. Why are you inventing all kinds of crap?

The tire was also one of the available materials in the zones

Disassembly of Solo 639 chainsaw for spare parts Бензопила Соло 639 на запчасти

Uncle and the knife was really good by those standards

The tire was also one of the available materials in the zones

We are not in those times and thank God not in the zone and not in the forestry. Why suffer from suffering, when in the current conditions there are a lot of good materials. Sorry for the ready-made clinks knives or want it yourself, to make something-yes, please-how many pieces of iron are sold out. Again, not that? Yes, take the rubbish canvas. Polished, hardened stripes for a couple of knives is enough and everything is better than all kinds of tires. And for money 300r.

A friend of a friend broke a knife for chopping meat. After going through the shops, the friend did not find anything suitable. Either the price does not suit, or the quality is not very. He invited him to make a strong and reliable tool from the old Shinka from the Ural chainsaw, because this is a good, wear.Resistant material.

Chalk drew a knife outline on the workpiece (cm. Scheme), pressed it with a clamp to the workbench and cut the blank on the line with a grinder. On the emery, he threw the edges and cleaned the sharp edges.

The lower part of the workpiece (blade) imprisoned under the wedge (photo 1), Then he cleaned all the surfaces with sandpaper and polished the felt with the paste of goi.

In order not to cut off when performing further work, I sealed the blade with a masking tape in several layers. Gas burner heated the handle of the knife (so that the metal becomes softer) and when it has cooled, it drilled three holes d 6 mm in it (photo 2) for attaching a wooden handle.

In the bean of the beech the desired size, it drank a groove of 4 mm wide and a depth of 22 mm on a circular saw. In a wooden workpiece perpendicularly, the border drilled three holes so that they coincided with holes on a metal shank.

Fixed the bar on the knife with rivets from the bronze tube D 6 mm. On the emery, I gave the hand the right shape, polished the surface and sat it with automobile oil (photo 3).

A friend was very pleased with such a gift and after home tests said that this knife was “on the teeth”.

How To Adjust Your STIHL Saw Chain

The time comes, and the factory tire from an electric or chainsaw is unusable. But you can give her a new life. For example, an old tire can become a good knife (tesak) for household needs in the garage or in the country.

For work, you will need an old tire, a small wooden block, several metal hairpins, a strip saw (or an electrician), Ushm (Bulgarian), a grinding machine, a drill, sandpaper, rashpil, drawing tools, prophet oil, epoxy resin (or glue for wood) and any spray varnish.

We mark the future ending and shape of the blade on the tire. Cut all the excess metal using Ushm. After that, mark the upper part of the blade in the form of a rare.Toothed saw.

The main stages of work

On an emery circle, the master makes the sharpening of the future product. For convenience, you can clamp the workpiece between two planks. Sharpowing is made on one side of the blade. After a rough sharpening, the master performs more thorough sharpening on the stone.

Next, proceed to the manufacture of the handle. Previously drilling the holes in the tip, we apply it to the bar and mark its shape. Draw the shape of the future handle. We drain the bar along the depth of the tip and on its thickness.

After that, drill through the through holes. We insert the blade into the handle. We reduce holes in the workpiece and handle. We insert the studs, and rivet them on the anvil on both sides until the hats are formed.

At the next stage, we proceed to grinding and giving the shape to the handle. We rudely set the shape of the butt of the handle, giving it the shape of a semicircle. Skim with sandpaper and we get the final shape.

Why rustles a chainsaw?

All chainsaws have only one significant non.Prosperity. This is a noise when working, which in some places (cottages, personal plots) interferes and irritates many people. If the noise from a working saw prevents the concentration, then such an option as headphones that suppress the noise is possible. But everyone around them will not walk in the headphones, while someone is noisy.

It happens that the chainsaw works normally at small speeds, but it is worth adding gas, as it sneezes and stalls right away. The reason, as a rule, is that the exhausts cannot pass through the muffler clogged with Garya and are forced to move in the opposite direction. To do this, it is enough to remove it and clean it, if it is of course versed, if not, you will have to dry it with hot air using a hairdryer.

The most important reason for the muffler pollution is an excessive amount of oil, which is diluted with gasoline and as a result of which settles on its walls.

If you decide to independently clean the non.Collapsible muffler, then keep in mind that you can not do this on dry hairdryer, since hazardous substances are extremely harmful to health.

Although most of the manufacturers of chainsaws and try to muffle the engine noise if possible, but this does not lead to anything good and first of all affects the power of the apparatus.

Professional chainsaws, for example, Khuskvarna cannot work quietly at all, since power and speed are very high, which leads to a strong noise. Trying to independently muffle the roar of the motor, while maintaining high performance is extremely difficult. But there are people who use an ordinary bucket of water and a plastic tube, lowered into the water at one end, and the other end is screwed to the exhaust pipe. There are effectiveness from such actions, the sound of the motor becomes quieter.

Block: 2/5 | Summer Symbols: 1911Source: http: // Andreynoak.Ru/instrument/kak-sdelshitel-dlya-benzopily-v-domashnih-osloviyah/

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How to make a chainsaw knife

The manufacture of a knife should start with the project. First of all, make pencil sketches of future forms. When with forms the blade and the handle were determined. This drawing should be transferred to any vector editor. It is better to design the mutual location of the parts of the rotation and fixation mechanism of the blade using a computer. How to do this using the Coredraw program can be seen here:

After the design on the computer is finished. Print the drawings and use them as templates for embodiment in metal.

Start directly manufacturing from the blade. First of all, we mark a place for an axial hole. We drill it and already orient ourselves on it, we make further marking of the blade. If we do the opposite and marked and cut out the back on the contour, and only then drill the hole, then in the process of drilling, especially in hot blanks, the drill can take aside and all sizes will “float” ”.

Having transferred the contours of the blade to the workpiece we begin to make the blade. We grind with the help of a “grinder” and emery on the contour. For the convenience of holding the blade in the process of removing the descents, the blade itself is not cut off from the blank and the heel of the blade is not formed.

For the removal of descents, various tools can be used: “Bulgarians”, emery, flat-grinding machines, greenhouses. I make a rough turn of the descents on the sandpaper and the exact plane on a flat-grinding machine.

Start the manufacture of lateral dies. We transfer the image of the dicks to the metal, the holes should be especially impressively marked.

The marking of holes is enough to do only on one dick.

Having placed the holes, we proceed to drill. Two dies should be drilled at once to avoid possible discrepancies in the holes.

I drill all the holes with a drill 2 mm., Then I drill to the desired diameters.

Having drilled all the necessary holes, we proceed to cutting and grinding one dick along the contour.

On the finished dick, we mark the second, as if combining drilled previously holes.

For accurate combination of holes, it is advisable to use guide pin the desired diameter. I use the shanks of the drill.

Having cut the second dick, adjust them to one dimensions, combining the holes And holding off the dies.To fasten the dies, you can apply special racks, the height of which should be equal to the thickness of the blade plus the thickness of all the goals. Instead of individual racks, you can act a continuous insert. The material of the insert can be different from metals to plastics.

Dies are ready and slowly begin to loom out the contours of the knife.

Next, drill a hole in the dies under the pin of the stopper of the blade, install the axis and stream of the stopper, install the blade and the second dick. We transfer the blade to an open position and mark the position of the heel of the blade on the dick, or rather the place where the castle liner should rest. Next, mark the liner and proceed to cut it.

We disperse the holes in the places where the cut line is overcurrent and at the end of the line. We fix the guide and cut out with a drimel, a detachable circle.Can also be cut out with a knife shell. To do this, make several holes at the end of the cut line, grind them with a file, spread in the hole with a knife sheet and a liner is cut out.

By cutting the liner. We grind a small groove to reduce the stiffness of the liner. It is best to grind with drimel with balls or rollers with sandpaper.

After cutting out and bent the liner, collect the knife and check the accuracy of the fitting. Coming should be done with installed bronze or fluoroplastic washers.

If necessary, we adjust so that the liner plate occupies the position at the beginning of the heel of the blade.

The heel of the blade itself should have a bevel, about 7-9 degrees. This bevel provides a selection of a background backlash.

On the edge of the liner plate, it is necessary to install a small ball, which will ensure the fixation of the blade in a closed state. Under the ball, drill a hole, the smaller diameter of the ball is 0.2 mm. It is necessary to press the ball using a vice by placing a solid metal plate from the ball side. Above the surface of the plate, the ball should protrude approximately 0.2-0.4 mm.

We paint over the side of the blade, facing the ball with the marker and close the knife several times, open the knife. On a drawn trace, we determine where the ball is stopped in the closed position of the blade. In this place we make a small recess.

I just mark the right prick, circling the right dick along the contour. Left protin, unlike the right, has a hole for the axis, so first we drill a hole, the diameter of which should be slightly larger than the diameter of the axis’s cap. We insert the axis into the hole of the dick and the blanks of the crush, tighten the screw and mark the left prick along the contour of the dick. We cut out the marked lands along the contour, leaving small allowances at the edges. 0.5-1 mm. In the right sign, it is necessary to make a deepening under the axis hat. The recess can be selected with drimel, drill, end mill.

Pros and cons of home.Made ones in comparison with factory manufacturing

One of the main advantages of a home.Made knife is its cost. It costs an order of magnitude cheaper than a factory knife. In addition, a home.Made blade can be given almost any form. It all depends only on imagination.

Despite its positive qualities, such a knife has some disadvantages. Among them can be highlighted:

• The choice of metal. Factory knives are made of various brands of steel, each of which is developed taking into account the scope of application. In the case of a saw disk, the choice of steel is limited;
• Hardening the blade. Hardening the blade is a very complex technological process that requires steadily observing all the norms, which is very difficult to repeat at home.

We also recommend reading a useful article about the best brands for knives, the article has a review of the 12 most popular brands around the world, their pros and cons that are worth paying attention to when choosing.

Making a knife from the saw disc is the most simple and cheap way. If there is a desire and a sufficient amount of free time, everyone will be able to make it on their own. We hope that after reading the article, the process of its manufacture has become clear to you, and you can do it yourself.

A knife without a name. ⁠ ⁠

A kind of Syntitions of Central Asian with the Caucasian

Handle. Karelka, Grab, Neizilber, Brass, Mikarta

Giving the workpiece of the final shape

A rough workpiece to the final shape is brought using a file or sandpaper. In order to avoid overheating of the future knife from the saw, when processing it, it is necessary to periodically lower it into a container with water. This will cool the workpiece. When processing the workpiece using a file, additional cooling is not required. The most optimally it will be approximately processed on the sandpaper, and then carry out thin refinement with a file.

During the final processing, special attention should be paid to the smoothness of the bends

It is important to ensure that the bend is even, without hollows or bulges. Miniature depressions are easy to check with a file

To do this, with the help of a marker, the verified end of the workpiece is painted over. Next, they are carried out with a slight pressure along the blank throughout the bend. In those places where the marker’s trace remained there are depressions

Miniature depressions are easy to check with a file. To do this, with the help of a marker, the verified end of the workpiece is painted over. Next, they are carried out with a slight pressure along the blank throughout the bend. In those places where the marker’s trace remained there are depressions.

Processing continues until not a single hollow remains.

Next, the workpiece is cleaned of burrs and polished with sandpaper. You can start with 60 granularity and just finish at 320. The workpiece will still be subjected to heat treatment, so the final grinding of the blade will be later.

Step 11: let go of the metal

Now you need to release metal. To do this, first clean the knife blank from the scale layer formed during hardening. We warm up the oven to 190 ° C, and place the knife harvest for one hour there. Turn off the oven in an hour and leave to cool without opening the door.

As soon as the workpiece has cooled to such a temperature that it can be taken in your hands, take out the knife blank. After vacation, the metal acquired a light or light bronze tint. Now grind the workpiece, starting 220 grit from sandpaper and gradually changing abrasiveness up to 400 grit. I polished the workpiece in one direction. From the handle to the tip, this gave the surface of the metal a uniform look.

Ready knife

Completed work. Although the process was and difficult, the reward was worthy. For me it was something like a rite of initiation. The process of manufacturing a knife makes you change. From the experience gained, these changes became my favorite part. I’m talking not only about the transformation of objects, but also about personal changes. I mastered new skills and experience, learned to benefit from my own mistakes, which will definitely make me better artisan. I hope that this one will be useful to you, and thanks for reading it to the end.

Do.It.Yourself discs from a disk saw

I made two more knives. I made them using power tools. And the time spent on the manufacture of two knives amounted to one third of the time that I spent, making it manually. The last photo shows all the knives together.

A homemade knife from a saw. How to make a knife from a saw with your own hands?

Raw materials for the manufacture of a home.Made knife can be any new or old cutting part of hardened steel. As a blank, it is better to use cutting wheels for metal, canvas of manual and pendulum saws. A good option is the old chainsaw. From its chain you can forge and blame the blade, which in its quality and appearance is not inferior to the famous Damasian steel.

In order to make a knife with your own hands, such equipment and materials will be required:

• Bulgarian;
• Grinder;
• Electric drill;
• Ruler;
• A hammer;
• Sandpaper;
• Sharpening bars;
• Files;
• Kern;
• Epoxy adhesive;
• Copper wire;
• Marker;
• Bucket with water.

Separately, you need to consider the issue with the handle. The finished product should comfortably lie in the hand.

For the manufacture of a handle it is better to use:

The raw materials for the handle should be whole, without traces of cracks, rot and other defects.

Harry Potter

Wrote me a pickup with this request: “Hello! I want a Harry Potter’s style knife. There is something to offer?””

I answered, they say, yes: engraving, color schemes, we will make Gryffindor in the style, Slytherin. You can beat the sword of griffindor, variations of darkness. The client thought and answered: “Give me an hour, now I will show that I want”. OK, waiting.

Wat? Wand? Didn’t understand. But the client continued: “I want a small knife that would resemble a wand! With the inscription on the blade and the coat of arms of Slytherin. The handle is green. Here I drew how I see it:

Interesting. TK is understandable, the task is set, we do.

Blade. N690, handle. Stabilized Karelian birch and stabilized grab. Laser engraving and villing the blade.

The handle made with such a relief called “broken stone”. When we did, we all stood in a workshop with such faces:

In general, I really liked the order, many thanks to the client.

All acute sensations and pleasant weekends!

We make a high.Quality knife from a saw in two and a half hours. Hunters.RU

From the side it seems that making a knife is easy, that it is only a sharpened steel strip and a wooden handle. But when it comes to practice, the picture changes dramatically. The main thing in this process is knowledge and experience. When you know, everything is simple when there is no experience, everything is complicated.

• I recently posted on the Internet a photo with seven blades taken in one day in the Stakhanovo impulse.
• Alexander Kudryashov in a comment asked to tell how I am doing even and symmetrical descents.
• In response, I joked: “It’s simple: you take a“ magic marker ”, draw even descents, pronounce wonderful words, and even descents are ready”.

But is it really a joke? Joke, of course, but the truth is somewhere nearby.

Later I suggested coming and in practice to see how the right descents are made and the whole knife is entirely. And this proposal was accepted.

According to my idea, Alexander was supposed to participate a little in the manufacture: choose a blank for the blade, a handle material, preferred length of the blade and handle. From our experiment, Alexander was supposed to leave with a ready, solid, and most importantly, working knife.

Alexander Izdodny arrived, in light pants of sand.Colored and fleece jacket of the color of the coyote, which did not suit at all for the upcoming work. He had to give him working pants and a camouflage shirt in case he got dirty. Everything came perfectly. We are with him alone.

In the workshop, work went according to a pre.Planned plan. As a material for the blade, an old kind mechanical saw from a quick.Cutter was chosen. Why?

This is a well.Known and repeatedly tested steel of industrial hardening. Yes, it is difficult to process, but due to red resistance (the ability to withstand heating for a long time without reducing hardness) does not require cooling.

The thickness of the mechanical spike is 2 mm, this is enough for most working knife tasks. The knives of the mechpil are light, they hold sharpening well and, importantly, are completely legal: the small thickness of the blade celebrates any suspicion of involvement in the cold weapons.

In general, there are many brands of high.Speed steels, but the manufacturer does not always indicate a specific brand, often limited to the stigma of HSS (High Speed ​​Steel). New saws rarely come across and are more expensive.

For a knife.Item, the novelty of the mechanized vehicle does not matter, therefore, for the manufacture of a knife, you can use both a new saw and a pretty worked and even broken. The result will be of little resemble the source material. Of the shortcomings, one can note the tendency of steel to paint during lateral load and its exposure to corrosion.

Alexander chose a suitable canvas of a quick.Cutter furpil (HSS Made in USSR). I cut off the excess and made the contour of the future knife on the emery, then processed the workpiece with a kratsovka. A rotating steel brush, giving it a noble black shine, and painted the blade part on both sides with a blue wide marker designed for warehouse work.

On the paint of the marker with a caliper, he marked the lines of future descents, paying special attention to the synchronism of their exit to the butt. The resulting lines circled with a “magic marker” with silver paint, which is nothing more than aluminum powder in a polymer binder.

Why exactly them? Very simple. This paint withstands high temperatures, lies well on the metal and holds firmly. Paints of ordinary colored markers are burned out, erased, and crumbled. And Serebryanka holds on. That’s all the magic.

I installed the blade on a special adaptation for the removal of descents (a reduced version of the adaptation from Chapay, made independently from the steel corner). Marked the place where the descents will begin, and recorded with a manual vice.

I performed the metal removal of the metal with yellow cubitron II from 3M with grain P24 on a machine with an abrasive ribbon (on a greenhouse). For uniformity, I began to shoot metal from the marker mark at the future handle and moved to the tip with uniform slight pressure.

At the same time, it is very important evenly, in parallel, without distortions to apply a future blade to the tape. I let Alexander stand a little at the machine at the initial stage, using special devices. Railing out. A process requiring experience.

Having a little not reaching the silver lines of the “magic marker”, I changed the tape to the abrasive P60 and began to align the descent line. Made several movements from an ear to the handle, creating a right angle at the beginning of the descents. Then work began on the risk of descents.

For this, there was enough work on abrasives P80 and P120. Apply for very solid high.Speed steels of abrasive P180 and smaller unjustified. This is not Cubitron II, and at such tight steels abrasives work poorly and not for long. At the same time, it is important that the finish processing of the blade is made on one tape, otherwise the parties will look different.

Claiming options

Homemade knives can be made of many metal parts that cannot be used for their intended purpose, since they have become unusable.

Among the details from which you can make homemade knives, you can distinguish several:

• Worn connecting rods of a motorcycle, from which you can make a set of knives of various lengths;
• Cylinder keys with 1 broken end;
• Crutches that are used to lay rails;
• Discs of the circular saw of various diameters and thickness;
• Damaged hacksaw canvas of a pendulum saw.

With certain skills in forging, you can make a knife from a metal thick cable, a chain from a home unit. The chainsaw is optimally suitable for this. Its chain is quite durable, and a home.Made knife will turn out like Damassian knives.

If the circular saw has a large disk diameter, and its damage is minimal, then two homemade knives can be obtained from it. Discs have a significant strength of metal metal, since the saw is used for various purposes for a long time.

Knife from a canvas of a mechanical saw

There are many articles on the Internet on the manufacture of a knife from a mechanical saw. But on one well.Known resource, I found a whole article, negative statements about people making such blades. And that the products are obtained by no suitable. Everyone has their own opinion, but all the “salt” is not in this, but is it really so bad a knife from the mechpila, as described by the author of the article? Let’s try to figure it out.

Features of a knife from a saw

The mechanical saw can be used to make a blade, in almost any condition. Even if it went bad and rusted, it will still be suitable for homemade. The advantages of the product are enough:

• The knife will be performed for itself, so it will be unique, and will lie well in the hand;
• A wide selection of material both in length and in width of the butt;
• Does not need hardening;
• From one canvas it is realistic to make several knives;
• Such a blade will be in the price category of 100 and higher, better than “Chinese” for 30-40.

This is true. Having spent not a lot of time depending on experience, you literally get a product with good cutting properties. Do not overheat it on time, and you get a great knife.

Necessary tools and materials

Since there is no need to forge and harden the future blade, the whole tool can be found in the garage, which is at least a little, but equipped. We will need:

• Markers: black and silver;
• Ruler, paper sheet and caliper;
• Angle grinding machine (Bulgarian);
• Files with different grains;
• As well as sandpaper and painting adhesive tape;
• Epoxy adhesive;
• Sharp and drilling machines;
• Container with water, for cooling;
• Hammer, core and vise.

In this set, everything is wonderful, for one simple reason. Any element can be replaced with it like. Drilling machine is, of course, cool, but an electric drill is enough. And so with any tool from the list. You will definitely need materials for the manufacture of the handle, but more on that a little further.

How to make a knife from a mehpyle with your own hands

The thickness of the mechanized vehicle is usually 2-2.5 mm if you do not find another option. This is quite enough to complete all the knife tasks. They are easy in their hand, hold sharpening for a long time and will be completely legal. With a long do not fail. And for other qualities, the knife will not fall under an article about cold weapons.

Do.It.Yourself mehpila knife.

Production of a knife

This process can be divided into several stages. For a detailed and understandable description, we will do so:

• Of course, the first thing is a layout. If the experience is not enough, do not disdain this moment, it is really important. Measure the “saw” workpiece itself, the layout should not protrude beyond the edges, and do not forget about the shank and handle. All these points must be taken into account initially.
• Transfer a sketch to a piece of saw with a black marker. Pinch it in a vice and cut off a piece of the length we need with a heap. At the same stage, cut the shank so that you do not return to the vice and the “grinder”. After the draft work, all the burrs “remove” the file with a file.
• Particular attention is paid to future descents. This process is the most important and you need to take it with all seriousness. We already take almost a “blade” and paint it with a black marker, then we will use the caliper for marking. We measure the descents in accordance with the layout. Then we carefully and, most importantly, symmetrically draw along the blade strip, using a caliper. A scratched strip should be removed on black paint. We do similarly on the other hand. Be sure to circle the marking with a silver marker, it is desirable that it be with aluminum powder.
• To remove descents, it is best to use a special device, more details in the article: “How to make descent on a knife”. It will be much faster and most importantly. More precisely. And now about a marker with aluminum dust, when working on a grinding machine, the workpiece will bask. It will be simple to “burn out”, namely, such as described above, on the contrary, it will freeze and not fall off. Thanks to such a small trick. The descents will turn out perfect. The tape on the Greener for the production of descents is not needed with very small grain, enough P80 and P120. You can bring to the ideal later, and this is a draft option.
• Start to make the slopes from the handle, after breeding one side, we do the same and on the other. After making sure that everything is in order, you can walk with a felt circle with the paste. Then the blade should be wrapped in masking tape several times. This is both protection from the cut and preparation for work with the handle.
• The handle will be made of wooden symmetrical linings. We are inhabited in the shank hole. We mark the bar and divide exactly two parts. In accordance with the holes on the blade, we drill them on the pads. Then you need a cut along the handle, in accordance with the shank. After marking everything and trying on, we take up the shape of the handle, here you FOCUS only on your taste. Read more in the article: “How to make a knife pen”.
• When the details are ready, you can connect them with rivets. The knife is almost ready, it remains to process the handle in hot wax. If you do not have it, you can use natural oils, latex.Based compounds, silicone or special impregnations for wood.

At the final stage, as an option to go on a handle on a felt circle, thereby removing excess oils. And wipe with a damp cloth. The blade is ready for operation.

Production recommendations

Attentive reader, can pay attention to the list of tools, half of which was not used. Let us explain, it is better to have a supply of everything you need, so any trifle can reduce the work a little the other way. So don’t disdain these things and let them always be at your hand.

I also wanted to notice about the manufacture of descents: be careful. Do not overheat the workpiece, otherwise steel will lose its properties. Water the part abundantly with water, and everything will be in order.

You can’t leave the blade in any case to leave the blade. To do this, we make carts on a diamond bar, with the smallest grain. And display the cutting edge. The process is best done with soapy water.

Advantages of the chainsaw of the grinder

Now let’s figure out whether to buy or make a nozzle on a chainsaw on the chainsaw, what are the advantages compared to the usual Ushm?

The main advantage of the nozzle is grinder, this is mobility. Agree, you can not always stretch the wire to the place of work or they can be carried out where there is simply no electricity.

Second, this is the cost. The average price of an electric grinder with discs with a diameter of more than 180 mm and a capacity of more than 1.5 kW is 7000 thousand rubles, while the nozzle can be bought for 1.5. 2 thousand or made on your own.

The third and last advantage is power. The most powerful electric grinder is 2.5. 3 kW, and some chainsaws can easily issue 3.5. 4, professional models of more than 5 kW. For example, Calm MS 661 with a capacity of 5.4 kW.

Along with the advantages, there are negative points that should also be taken into account, namely:

• Benzores should not be used indoors, t. To. The exhaust is released during the operation of the chainsaw;
• The chainsaw with the nozzle is cumbersome and uncomfortable, to perform small and accurate cuts with its help uncomfortable;
• When working with a detachment circle, metal dust is in the air, which enters the air filter and strongly pollutes the last.

Of course, compared to ordinary Ushm, the nozzle. The Bulgarian loses in functionality, t. To. There is no way to grind it with her, it is simply inconvenient, and the chainsaw weighs with the grinder decently. It turns out that the nozzle is a bell for a chainsaw, like an electric Ushm has its advantages, but they are not able to completely replace each other.

Anastasia Melnikova, observer of MIA “Russia Today”

Either autumn aggravation, or so coincided. Several monstrous crimes were committed by teenagers in recent days.

In Minsk, a 17-year-old man on Saturday night attacked visitors to a shopping center with a chainsaw and an ax. As a result, one woman died, there are wounded.

As the offender later admitted, the decision “On the commission of a massacre with particular cruelty” he took a long time-because of “disappointment in himself and aversion to humanity”. At the same time, he himself wanted to be killed during the detention. It was reported that the young man is from a wealthy family, but in fact, his parents had not been engaged in his upbringing recently: his father lived separately in Minsk, and his mother and sister abroad. A minor criminal two years ago was treated in a psychiatric dispensary.

The clarification of relations from the network moved to the courtyard, the quarrel classmates brought friends with them, a brawl began. According to the representative of the regional investigative department, Olga Degid, and who attacked, and the deceased. From among the guys who came with the initiators of the network conflict.

Scooter with a chainsaw motor

A chainsaw motor can also be installed on a homemade scooter. The engine needs to be prepared: you need to remove the saw tire and circuit. Other components of the parts remain untouched. The preserved motor body allows you to facilitate its attachment to the scooter platform.

Crafts from chainsaws can be very different. They are assistants in the household, help maintain the budget. However, to create a safe device, it is necessary to own certain skills and knowledge. Therefore, it is important that the homemade is made by truly craftsmen.