How to Make a Drill From a Disk From a Circular

Designs and application

There are three main designs of earth drills:

Garden. Usually these are two semicircular blades welded at an angle to one another. A manual drill of this design is used to organize holes for planting, which is why it is called "garden". But the pits make the same tool when installing poles for fences, arbors and other light buildings.

An example of a homemade earthen garden drill

The auger drill differs helically wound by several turns of the spiral

Reclining blade. features of a drill for TISE piles

Making a garden drill

Garden drill. the most simple but effective design. It consists of:

Cutting part. It usually consists of two steel semicircles with sharpened edges. The diameter of the blades is selected depending on the diameter of the pits that need to be drilled. For convenience, the blades can be made removable. bolted.

Pillar drill can be with a precast

This is a basic design, and there are many improvements to it. But first, let’s talk about what a land drill can be made of.

Materials

As already mentioned, the rod is most often made of a pipe of round or square cross-section. Diameter. from 3/4 ‘to 1.5’, profiled pipe can be taken from 2020 mm to 3535 mm.

Knives-blades can be made of:

• sheet steel with a thickness of 4 mm;
• saw blade for angle grinder of suitable diameter.

Zemlebur with blades from a saw blade for angle grinder

It’s easier to make blades from a saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are ready. It will be possible to further sharpen the side edges so that the soil is cut easier.

A pico drill is made of different materials. a lot of its designs. They simply make a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of bar of large diameter. The second option is to make something like a drill out of a strip. And yet. a combination of the two.

And finally. about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made of a round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the coverage of the palms. The basic requirement is that you should be comfortable.

Knives and method of fastening

First of all, you need to decide whether you do it yourself with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, welds of thick steel are welded at one end of the rod. Shelves are made at an angle. so that the plane of the knives are divorced at an angle of 25-30 °.

After the shelves are welded, they make two or three holes. for fasteners. Then the same holes will need to be made in the blades, and install them on bolts of a solid diameter.

On one rod, you can have several sets of cutting blades. for pits of different diameters

In the discs themselves, in the center, you will have to cut holes. so that they fit more tightly to the rod, but this operation is also required with a monolithic version. with welded blades.

Sheet steel

If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper, along it. a circle from steel. Drill a hole in the center. you will need to insert and weld the rod into it. Circle or square. depending on the selected bar. The dimensions of the hole are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.

Next, you need to decide what kind of blades you will make. from two halves of the circle (as in the photo above) or in the form of an open circle with offset edges. one coil of the spiral (in the photo below).

Manual one-turn drill

The edges must also be raised by 25-30 ° degrees. In this case, the drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loam with a predominance of clay), the blades under load can reduce. To avoid this, add stops from a corner or a thick strip of steel.

Reinforcing a hand drill for dense wells

The blades bend due to the fact that the steel is used non-hardened, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and if it is possible, it is unlikely to be bent.

From the saw blade

If you have an old saw blade of a suitable diameter, you have found an almost perfect option. They use hardened steel, and it is elastic and durable. But such a disk cannot be bent, because it is cut in half and these halves are bred at the required angle.

Video: How to Make a Drill From a Disk From a Circular

The disk is cut in half

Such a homemade earthwork drill shows a fairly high productivity. Even used wheels have a well-sharpened edge. And to make drilling even easier, the do-it-yourself drill is also sharpened on the sides.

Modifications

In dense soils it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades of different sizes are welded onto the rod. Below, near the peaks, the smallest are welded, above, retreating a few centimeters. large. There can be three such tiers, a maximum of four. The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is very difficult to work physically.

Cutting blades can be arranged in several tiers

If a drill is needed for shallow pits. for installing poles, etc., then this design is optimal. it has a relatively light weight, it is easy to work with it. The process of work is this — they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times — pulled it out and poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep pits, you will torment a small amount of soil from the depths. For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded over the blades.

Homemade drill with a land receiver suitable for installing poles and piles

And all this. do-it-yourself drills. All of them are highly efficient. it’s much easier to work than purchased ones.

Auger drill

Due to the large number of turns, a screw drill creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than a garden drill. But the screws are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive. when they make a drill for wells of great depth. into water, the installation of underground probes for a heat pump, etc.

It looks like a screw drill

To make a homemade auger drill you will need several metal disks. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut the same, in them, in the center, a hole is cut out for the rod, as well as the same sector. so that you can weld them.

A sector is marked in the rings, cut out

The discs are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. On the extreme disks, rings are welded. The welded discs are put on the rod, the lower edge is welded.

It turns out such a big spring

Next, you need a winch. The blank for the screw is fixed, the winch hook clings to the ring and stretches to the desired length, after which the screw is boiled.

TISE pile drill

In the author’s version, the TISE drill is blades with a land receiver and a folding wider knife, which forms an extension in the lower part of the pile. But it’s inconvenient to work with such a projectile. a folding knife greatly interferes. Therefore, in some constructions it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the pits themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and to expand it, make a separately folding knife with a land receiver. So the work is easier and faster.

DIY drill for TISE piles. one of the options

A cropped shovel acts as a knife here, and the land receiver is made of a herring can. The knife is fixed movably; when lowering into the pit, it is pulled by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is weakened, the scapula begins to cut the sides of the pit, forming the necessary expansion.

In the photo below. the second version of a homemade drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more efficient. The plow-blade is made of a piece of spring, ground and welded to the hinged structure on bolted joints.

complex design

Dredger. from an old propane tank. The collection of land occurs from below, because the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.

This shell works well even on thick clay. However, to reduce friction, the well must be constantly moistened with water.

Blueprints

A do-it-yourself drill is good in that its design is “sharpened” for the owner. In the manufacturing process, each makes his own changes, then many more modify the product. But without basic drawings it can be difficult to do. This engraving contains several drawings with the sizes of various drills. As you know, the sizes are arbitrary, they can and should be changed, adjusting to the size of the required wells.

Shovel drill

For planting plants to make a serious design does not make sense. In this case, you can make a garden drill from a shovel. Choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply marking, as shown in the drawing. According to the markup, it will be necessary to cut out two small fragments, cut the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (in the photo).

Then the edges are bent one forward, the other backward, the petals formed in the lower part are bent to them. The resulting seams are boiled outside and inside.

Soft Soil Drill

If the soil is soft, the usual design does not work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an elongated cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slots on the sides. The cuts are equipped with cutting edges. They are best made from well hardened steel.

Soft Soil Drill

This drawing shows an interesting handle design. it can be rearranged as the length of the rod increases.

Basic drawings of auger and garden drill

Both of these units work well, but you often have to remove the garden, and it’s harder to rotate the auger. Choose according to your own preferences.

Auger and garden drill for land of different densities

Detailed drawing in projections of auger drill