How to make a flashlight from a screwdriver. Screamer from a screwdriver.

How to make a flashlight from a screwdriver

LED ribbons are now used everywhere and sometimes fall into the hands of segments of such ribbons, ribbons with LEDs burned out in places. And whole, working LEDs full and it is a pity to throw away such good, I want to apply them somewhere. Various battery elements also come across. In particular, we will consider the elements of “dead” Ni-CD (nickel-cadmium) batteries. From all this trash, you can build a solid homemade lantern, with a high probability better than the factory.

LED tape, how to check

As a rule, LED ribbons are designed for a voltage of 12 volts and consist of many independent segments connected in parallel to the tape. This means that if some element fails, performance loses only the corresponding element, the remaining segments of the LED tape continue to work.

Actually, you just need to apply a voltage of 12 volts to special points-contraits that are available on each piece of tape. At the same time, the voltage will go to all segments of the tape and it will become clear where the non.Working areas.

Each segment consists of 3 LEDs and a current-limiting resistor included in series. If you divide 12 volts by 3 (number of LEDs), we will get 4 volts per LED. This is the power voltage of one LED. 4 volts. I emphasize, since the entire circuit limits the resistor, the diode is quite enough with a voltage of 3.5 volts. Knowing this voltage, we can directly check any LED on the tape separately. This can be done by touching the output of the LED with probes connected to the power supply with a voltage of 3.5 volts.

For these purposes, you can use a laboratory, adjustable power supply or a mobile phone charger. The charger is not recommended to connect directly to the LED, because its voltage is about 5 volts and theoretically the LED can burn out from a large current. To prevent this from happening, you need to connect the charger through a resistor of 100 Ohms, so we will limit the current.

I made myself such a simple device. Charging from a mobile with crocodiles instead of a plug. Very convenient for turning cells without a battery, recharging batteries instead of a “frog” and other things. To check the LEDs will also do.

For the LED, the polarity of the voltage is important, if you confuse plus with a minus, the diode will not light up. This is not a problem, the polarity of each LED is usually indicated on the tape, if not, then you need to try it and so. The diode will not deteriorate from confused pluses or minuses.

LED lamp

For a flashlight, it is necessary to make a light.Emitting node, a lamp. Actually, you need to dismantle the LEDs from the tape and group into your taste and color, in quantity, brightness and nourishing voltage.

To remove from the tape, I used a concurrent knife, abrasionly cutting off the LEDs directly with pieces of conductive veins of the tape. I tried to fall out, but something I did not succeed. Toping 30-40 pieces, I stopped, for a flashlight and other crafts more than enough.

Combine the LEDs according to the simple rule: 4 volts per 1 or more patented diodes. That is, if the assembly is enveloped from source of no more than 5 volts, no matter how many LEDs, they need to be soldered in parallel. If it is planned to feed the assembly from 12 volts, you need to get 3 consecutive segments with an equal number of diodes in each. For example, the assembly that I soldered from 24 LEDs, dividing them into 3 sequential sections of 8 pieces. It is designed for 12 volts.

Each of the three sections of this element is designed for a voltage of about 4 volts. The sections are connected sequentially, so the entire assembly feeds from 12 volts.

Someone writes that LEDs should not be included in the parallel without an individual limiting resistor. Maybe this is right, but I will not FOCUS on such trifles. For a long service life, in my opinion, it is more important to choose a current.Limiting resistor for the entire element and you should select it without measuring the current, but filing out working LEDs for heating. But more on that later.

I decided to make a flashlight working from 3 nickel-cadmium elements from the spent battery of a screwdriver. The voltage of each element 1.2 volts, therefore 3 elements connected sequentially, give 3.6 volts. We will navigate this tension and.

Having connected 3 battery elements to 8 parallel diodes, I measured the current-about 180 milliamps. It was decided to make a light.Emitting element of 8 LEDs, it just fits successfully in the reflector from the halogen, point lamp.

As a base, I took a piece of foil of a folk fiberglass approximately 1 msmx1cm, 8 LEDs in two rows will fit on it. In foil, I cut out 2 separating stripes-the average contact will be “-“, two extreme contacts will be “”.

To solder such small details of my 15-watt soldering iron, more precisely, too much sting. You can make a sting for soldering SMD components from a piece of electrical wire 2.5mm. In order for the new sting to stay in the large hole of the heater, you can bend the wire in half or add additional pieces of wire to a large hole.

The base is stuck with a solder with rosin and the LEDs are soldered in compliance with polarity. Cathodes (“-“) are soldered to the middle lane, and to the extreme anodes (“”). The connecting wires are soldered, the extreme stripes are connected by a jumper.

You need to check the filmed design by connecting it to the source 3.5-4 volts or through the resistor to the charging device of the phone. Do not forget about the polarity of inclusion. It remains to come up with the reflector of the flashlight, I took the reflector from the halogen lamp. The light element must be securely fixed in the reflector, for example, glue.

Unfortunately, the photo cannot convey the brightness of the glow of the assembled structure, I will say from himself: it is not very bad!

Battery

To power the lantern, I decided to use the batteries from the “dead” of the battery of a screwdriver. I took out all 10 elements from the body. The screwdriver worked from this battery for 5-10 minutes and sat down, according to my version, elements of this battery may well fit for the lantern work. After all, the lantern needs currents, much smaller than for a screwdriver.

I immediately unhooked three elements from the common ligament, they will just give voltage 3.6 volts.

I measured the voltage on each element separately. There were about 1.1 V on all, only one showed 0. Apparently this is a faulty bank, it is in the trash. The rest will still serve. Three cans will be enough for my LED assembly.

Making a flashlight from a spitz without batteries

Of the two small syringes, we make an element of power for our flashlight. Cut the nose in the syringes at about 2 ml around.

Scissors made of thin plastic cut out two rings along the diameter of the syringes.

With the help of thermoclay, we fix one ring on each syringe. These will be the boundaries of the main coil. Half of the syringe with tape we fasten the one. It should turn out something like this:

Now we wrap up the main coil. You can do this manually, or you can pass through the syringes a long screw, fix it with a nut with a puck and wrap it with a screwdriver. We will wind a copper wire with a thickness of 0.1-0.25 mm.

When the main winding is ready, you need to test the finished power element. We connect the LED to the outputs of the coil, and inward we put a neodymium magnet.

If the winding is enough, then with intense shaking the LED will flare up.

Now you need to assemble a raising converter. For a converting coil, we use a ferrite core of an energy-saving light bulb, on which we wrap 20 turns of wire with a thickness of 0.25-0.55 mm folded in half. We cut the opposite ends and solder together something like this:

From the reducing diodes of Scotti we make a diode bridge.

We put in the main coil of neodymium magnets and rubbish the piston with elastic bands on the sides of the nutritional element.

We solder the collected early scheme to the main coil, and install the finished design in the housing of 30 ml of the syringe. In the case we make a hole under the button.

So that the structure does not hang out, fix the LEDs by thermoclei and glue the lens from the old flashlight on top.

For greater reliability, you can wrap the structure with electrical.

The flashlight in such a modification has a pretty good brightness and long glow time.

Humble lawn mowed from a broken screwdriver.

To make a lawn mowed from a screwdriver, we need a working engine. This design is very similar to the previous model. We mount a trimmer design on a cart with wheels. We make a device for adjusting the height of the mowing. Lawn mowed from a screwdriver engine. Ready.

It is worth doing or not?

Now you know how to collect a simple wind generator from a screwdriver with your own hands. In stormy weather, he will give out 200-240 watts. From an economic point of view, such a windmill will justify itself only if all the spare parts got free or there were unnecessary in the garage.

But we all understand that the matter is not in money, but to create something yourself. Get energy from nothing with the help of old trash. Isn’t that a miracle.

Probably after that you will want to assemble the unit more serious, which will provide the whole house with light. This is more complicated, but the basic principle is already known to you, so go.

make, flashlight, screwdriver

Alteration of the screwdriver for lithium, part two, charging correctly

Last time I told how to properly redo the battery for a battery tool. I also wrote that I would tell about the features of the charge, and this time the viewer’s payment of the transducer will make the subject of the review. Who cares, I ask you to visit.

Initially, I planned to limit myself to two parts, the alteration of the battery and charger. But while preparing a review, the idea was ripening in my head for the third part of the review, more complex. And in this part I will tell you how to remake a native transformer charger, if it still works, well, or if a power transformer is still alive.

The converter scarf was ordered for quite some time in the amount of several pieces (in reserve), it was ordered specifically for this alteration, because it has some features, however, I will not run far, beem is consistent.

To begin with, I will share chargers of not three main types: one. The simplest are a transformer, a diode bridge and several details. Such chargers are equipped with an ultra.Bunch tool. 2. Branded. In fact, the same thing, but the composition already includes simple “brains”, automatic disconnecting the charge at the end. 3. “Advanced”. Pulse power supply, charge controller, sometimes a charge of undeski batteries at the same time.

The tool from the first category rarely falls under the alteration, since it is often easier (and cheaper) to buy a new one, and the third category usually has its own difficulties in alteration. In principle, you can redo the devices of the third group, but not within the framework of the article, since there are a lot of types of such chargers and each one needs an individual approach.

This time I will redo the charger from the second group, branded, although simple. But with this alteration, it has a lot in common with the first group, therefore it will be useful for more readers.

In order to charge the battery, you need not only to connect it to the power supply, such an experiment usually does not end very well. You need to connect it to a charger. And here there is a slight misunderstanding, since quite a few people are used to calling chargers of small power supplies from which they charge their smartphones, tablets and laptops. These are not charging devices, but power supply units.

What is the difference between the charger and power supply. The power supply is intended to issue a stabilized voltage in the range of stated load currents. The charger is usually more difficult, since the output voltage depends on the load current, which in turn is limited. At the same time, in the charging device there is a terminal charge at the end, as well as sometimes protection against connecting the battery in irregular polarity.

The simplest charger is just a power supply and a resistor (sometimes an incandescent lamp, which is even better) sequentially with a battery. This scheme limits the charge current, but as you understand, it cannot do anything else.

A little more complicated when they also put a timer that turns off the charge after a certain time, but this principle quickly “kills” batteries. For example, this is done in one of the inexpensive chargers for screwdrivers (photo is not mine).

The next class is more “Smart” chargers, although in fact they are not much better than the previous one. For example, here are a photo of the Bosch company charger designed to charge nicd batteries.

But all these chargers seem very simple after looking at modern options for the charge of lithium batteries.

Of course, the last option does not quite fit into our remodeling concept, since it is desirable that our charger not only charges correctly, but also cost minimal money.

The chargers of Chinese screwdrivers are certainly not more likely to look like an example, but again, it is unlikely that anyone wants to do such a device from scratch, although this is what I plan to do in a third part, though more correctly.

And so, for a start, suppose that we have a charger in our hands that simply does not fit a new type of batteries, but is good. Well, or at least he has a transformer. As I wrote above, you can even use just a resistor or light bulb, but this is “not our method”.

The conditional diagram of a typical inexpensive charger looks something like this: Transformer, diode bridge, thyristor and control scheme. True, sometimes instead of a thyristor stands a relay, the current is not limited and there may be a thermal control scheme from overheating (although it does not always save.

But we need only a transformer and a diode bridge from this scheme, though we will have to add a capacitor, so we will get a certain initial unchanged part, it is marked in red and will not change further.

The diode bridge is usually on the board and, if necessary, it can be used (if it is working). T.E. By and large, you can fall out of the board all radio elements, leaving only four diodes and terminals for connecting the battery, and use the board itself as a basis. The cathode of the diodes is marked with a strip, the point where two outputs are connected by the strip are connected. Plus, respectively, the connection point of “not thundered” conclusions. Minus. The transformer is connected to two other points of the connection.

How to make a mini screwdriver #shorts

True, opening the charger, you can see such a picture (do not pay attention to the lack of a transformer): In this case, you will have to fall out everything.

Portable power source from a screwdriver battery

Hello.

To dilute my reviews, I add a post to DIY. And specifically. A small body for a battery from a screwdriver, which allows you to use this battery as an autonomous power source of 12V.

Actually, such an idea came up after watching the assortment of MIWAUKEE products. They have Miwaukee Power Source. That is, the case with the connector for connecting the M12 battery. I planned to do this for BDCAT batteries (review), but in fact it is suitable for other Chinese batteries.

Drawing a couple of days, the most difficult thing was given to the castle. Drawing 3 times until I got in size (the Chinese apparently make standards “by eye”) Then I drew the body for the battery. Form. Triangle, battery contains three cells 18650. In general, it turned out like this.

We load it into a slider for 3D printing, set up. I printed by default 0.2mm layer, about 2 hours. Better to print standing, without support. Put the filling at your discretion, 100% do not need, approximately 40%. 50% (thin wall). Print result. For comparison. Next to the battery I printed several buildings at once, for experiments. The battery body does not enter tightly, with a small stretch. The lock is fixed with a slight click, as in the screwdriver case. I made contacts from a piece of tin (cans, beer cans, which are not aluminum, can be made from a segment of wire) If you do everything right. Voltage appears on the contacts. Mark march for convenience and. Initially, the idea was for the TS100 soldering iron, from 12V it works. In the photographs I saw a warm.Up from 50 ° C to 250 ° C Current consumed up to 2a The soldering iron works quite adequately. The battery has protection against the restart, so you can safely use. Additionally, in the bottom, I installed a USB downstream (12V. 5V) In the bottom, made a place for a cable, but if desired, you can finish the cover as a board housing, for a specific version. You can charge the phone)))

If desired, you can subsequently be a suburbs of any connectors/outputs/cables for convenience. It is advisable to install a cigarette lighter nest, but this will increase Holder’s dimensions. It is convenient to use Chinese batteries, as they also contain a charging fee with a round jack.

DIY flashlight from a screwdriver

If the screwdriver is defective engine and gearbox, then you can make a powerful flashlight. We disassemble the case. Instead of a cartridge, we mount a powerful LED. And we tie the electric circuit. Since the battery capacity in the screwdriver is large, the flashlight will work longer to work.

How to make mini cordless electric screwdriver. Diy homemade electric tools

Friends, today we examined the home.Made from the old screwdriver with our own hands. Did I mention everything? Maybe you have ideas. Comment and subscribe. I will add the best ideas to the article and indicate your authorship. Have a good mood.

The principle of operation of the device

This time the LED is connected to the battery only through the resistance of 3 Ohms. Since it contains a ready.Made source of energy, it does not require a cumulative thyristor and a transistor to distribute voltage, as is the case with the eternal flashlight of the Faraday. To charge the battery, an electronic charging module is used. A tiny micromodula provides protection against voltage drops and does not allow the battery reloading. The device is charged from the USB connector, and on the module itself is the micro USB connector.

  • Plastic syringe for 20 ml; ;
  • Lenses for LED flashlight with the case;
  • Micro-button circuit breaker;
  • Resistor for 3 ohms/0.25 watts; ;
  • A segment of the aluminum plate for the radiator;
  • Several copper wires; ;
  • Superclly, epoxy resin or liquid nails.

Afterword

In conclusion, I want to say a few words about the resulting review. Not every USB port of the computer can charge this lantern, it all depends on its load capacity, 0.5 A should be enough. For comparison: cell phones when connecting to some computers can show charging, but in fact there is no charging. In other words, if the computer charges the phone, then the flashlight will also be charged.

The scheme on the field transistor can be used to charge from the USB 1st or 2-cumulative elements, you just need to adjust the voltage, respectively.

What can be done from a screwdriver with your own hands

The screwdriver is widely used in various fields of activity to work with fasteners of various kinds: self.Tapping screws, screws, bolts with nuts, furniture confirmation, screws and others. Also, with the help of this power tool, holes in different materials, for example, in various metals, in lumber, in concrete, are fused. In this case, the functionality of the operated model is determined by the magnitude of its power and torque, the presence of shock function.

From a screwdriver, you can make a variety of equipment and tools for domestic use at home. In addition to the power tool itself, in many cases, additional details and materials will require in many cases. But homemade devices will still cost cheaper factory analogues, allowing to automate and make a more efficient manual work.

Fragrant lanterns from orange peel

A simple way to make crafts a flashlight from oranges will be interested in those who associate New Year’s holidays with the aroma of zest and spices.

For one flashlight, you will need medium.Sized orange, a sharp stationery knife and a tablespoon, several dried buds of fragrant cloves and a tea candle:

  • Fresh orange must be removed from the refrigerator and held in a warm place for 4-6 hours;
  • On the peel of the citrus fruit, a shallow, longitudinal incision should be made without touching the slices;
  • A tablespoon, carefully, without damage, remove halves of the peel from fastened lilios;
  • In the lower halter, a teaspoon is laid on the scattered sugar and is set on fire;
  • Various geometric shapes are cut out in the upper output with a sharp knife;
  • On the half of the ball from the orange zest, it is easy to cut out a sprocket or heart, rhombus and oval;
  • Dry clove buds are stuck along the contour of the pattern in the zest to open the aroma.

The finished flashlight is absolutely safe in use and will last a long time until the candle ceases to burn, placed inside the crafts.

Mixed aromas of cloves and orange zest are gradually released due to the heat of the candle and fill any house with a festive mood and a comfortable atmosphere of heat and comfort.

The lantern of the screwdriver.

As I described in the preface, it was a pity to throw the lantern, but then repairs started at home and I had to somehow twist the screws behind the cabinet. The cabinet is large, pushing it for the sake of light is a ungrateful matter. The linen flashlight is not very convenient, because it shines pretty boiled. Therefore, I still decided to finalize the flashlight from the screwdriver. The first thought was to make the panel on the model of diodes. Make by analogy by LED lines, t.E. Connect 3 LEDs sequentially with a resistor. But here we have not constant stress, t.To. The infected battery gives out more than 12V, and the hook less than 11V. Having rummaged in the dead boards at work, I found a scarf with raising DC/DC.

Necessary materials and tools

To assemble a flashlight, you need at least materials, which, most likely, will be able to find in the house of a real master all hands:

  • Battery from a 12.In.Line screwdriver. The old power source is suitable, which does not cope with its direct purpose poorly. You can use a good battery. It will still be possible to connect a power tool to it;
  • Small.Sized plug with a nest. Any options for two contacts are suitable, but it is better to find special cylindrical plugs for powering low.Voltage equipment;
  • Wires with a small section;
  • The case from the drill is well suited as a ceiling. You can use another hollow transparent cylinder. The main thing is that its length is not very small;
  • White LED tape. Color will look more original, but there is no practical sense in it.

From the tools at hand should only be a soldering iron, knife and drill.

The flashlight from the screwdriver

I got an old ribberry screwdriver Rebir. He barely twisted, having examined it, I realized that his motor could not be repaired. One brush was scattered copper erased on the shaft of the motor. The motor for such a screwdriver costs about 1,500 rubles. And the battery, as it turned out, this screwdriver was excellent. It is charged and holds the charge well.

After thinking, I did not dare to invest so much in the old screwdriver and postponed it until better times.

But recently I came across an English.Speaking site on the idea of ​​creating an excellent flashlight from an old screwdriver with his own hands.

As it turned out, a 12 V LED lamp with a power of 3 enters the groove of the gearbox.6 W (you can even put 5 watts).

I dismantled the screwdriver, took out all the mechanics from it, soldered the engine, soldered the cartridge.

Then I had to cut the screwdriver case for quite a bit so that the lamp got into the fasteners.

Attention! When twisting the housing, it turned out that the case is not closed quite tightly. It was not enough about 1 mm, I spun more hard, the gap disappeared, but the lamp housing cracked a little. This did not affect the work, but I lost the guarantee on the lamp, well, okay : unsure: just do not repeat my mistakes. The lamp sits in the case quite tightly and you do not need to tighten the screws of the body fastening with all their strength.

As a result, for 15 minutes of work, I received a wonderful flashlight that shines just very brightly! And what would happen if I bought a 5W lamp: yahoo:

I did not find any more shortcomings, having received a flashlight that would cost a couple of thousand in a tourist store, for free.

And out of the pluses. In 15 minutes I can collect a screwdriver back if I come across a suitable engine for him.

make, flashlight, screwdriver

Hello! My name is Evgeniy. I am fond of the manufacture of various designer products, as well as machine tools and tools, in my free time from work. On the pages of this site I will publish various articles on the topic of technical creativity. The manufacture of various things, instruments, tools and machine tools at home with my own hands.

5 Simple Screwdriver Life Hacks

Wind generator

The old battery screwdriver is suitable for creating a simple model of a wind generator, which will have the form of a vibrant. You need to disassemble the tool and disconnect its contacts, dismantle mechanical elements.

make, flashlight, screwdriver

Insert the shaft of the electric motor into the cartridge, reliably holding it. Bolts attach a plate of metal with a thickness of not more than 1 mm to the gearbox, which subsequently will perform the function of installing wind generator blades.

For the manufacture of blades, a plastic pipes sawn along the 2 parts are suitable for excellent. On the shaft located between the gear and the cartridge, put on the clamping clamp. The motor and cartridge are reliably attached to the base made of plywood.

It is possible to protect the wind generator from precipitation by placing the working elements of the device into an empty aluminum capacity.

After manufacturing the weather vane, attach the generator to its end, connect the wiring to the engine. To check the power of the wind generator, a multimeter is used, rotating the blades.

Wind generator

The old battery screwdriver is suitable for creating a simple model of a wind generator, which will have the form of a vibrant. You need to disassemble the tool and disconnect its contacts, dismantle mechanical elements.

Insert the shaft of the electric motor into the cartridge, reliably holding it. Bolts attach a plate of metal with a thickness of not more than 1 mm to the gearbox, which subsequently will perform the function of installing wind generator blades.

For the manufacture of blades, a plastic pipes sawn along the 2 parts are suitable for excellent. On the shaft located between the gear and the cartridge, put on the clamping clamp. The motor and cartridge are reliably attached to the base made of plywood.

It is possible to protect the wind generator from precipitation by placing the working elements of the device into an empty aluminum capacity.

After manufacturing the weather vane, attach the generator to its end, connect the wiring to the engine. To check the power of the wind generator, a multimeter is used, rotating the blades.

Production of the lamp

First prepare the luminaire housing. It will be from a metal pipe. After we cut off the necessary piece, treat the edges with sandpaper and a round supra so that when working do not get hurt for burrs. Now, with the help of a screed of aluminum wire and knitting needles, we press the countrogike to one of the ends of the pipe.

We process the flux and put on top, closer to the junction, a piece. We heat this design on a gas stove.

8 in 1 Multi Screwdriver Set with LED Torch. Home Product Review

Neatly so that the solder does not fall. When the required temperature is reached, the molten solder itself will spread throughout the joint. Now we cool it all. We remove the screed. It turned out such a blank:

Cut the field with a grinder from the plug so that it is a flush with the body. Although, you can leave it if you are too lazy to mess around. Just if in the future the lamp is inserted into the bracket on the wall, these fields can interfere. Now take care of the bottom lid. We take a cap of 15 mm, drip inside the flux, put the spring there, put the solder and repeat the procedure with heating.

The lower lid of the lamp, through which we will insert the nutrition elements. And now the upper cover. We turn the plastic cut from a bottle with a tube and insert it into the prepared thread from the same bottle. This plastic tube, in addition to the isolation function, will also serve as a filler so that the batteries do not dangle and do not rattle inside the housing with mobile use of the lamp. Sold to the edge of the case from the inside a small wiring (for the minus that will be on the mass).

We drip a little second glue, for fidelity, on all the joints of plastic. It turns out such a case with a thread:

Next, we glue the two cooked covers from the bottles with each other and drill a 10 mm hole in them in the middle.

Now we take the half.Halt from the chandelier and, cutting out the plug out of the brass or copper, we solder the plug to the thread. It will be plus contact. We drill a 3 mm hole in this thread for a minus wire that we soldered to the mass.

We insert this thread into the hole of the glued covers and steal a thick puck with the inner thread on the other side.

We pass the minus wire from the mass into the resulting through hole in the threads and wind up all this structure onto the case.

We clean the second contact at the cartridge and, pressing it to the cartridge thread, screw the cartridge into the thread of a thick washer.

We remove the sticking out the remains of the wire. Thus, we received an external metal case. This is a minus, and the internal assembly of threads is a plus. The role of the switch will play the lower cover, by turning it in one direction or the other. Shorten the spring to the required length that allows you to get a closed circuit when the lid is fully twisted, and the rupture of the chain with a slight weakening of the lid. We insert the batteries and use. If there are suitable small ceilings, you can use. By the way; This lamp is easy to adapt to a flashlight. It is enough to cut off the top from any plastic bottle along with thread, glue it from the inside with a brilliant self.Adhesive film (well, or foil, in extreme cases!) and accept the resulting reflector on the internal thread of the body remaining on the glued lids.