How To Make A Hitch To A Tiller

DIY trailer and hitch for a tiller

The average weight of the cargo carried in the tiller trailer is about 0.5 tons. That is why the trailer to the tiller is very useful for any farmer who is engaged in agriculture.

Also, the tiller trailer is perfect for farmers looking to make their own work easier. This is achieved thanks to the ability to work while sitting using a trailer. The result is an increase in the productivity of processing each section. Additional use of the trailer. secure attachment of attachments.

For many people, a trailer with a trailer is an inaccessible device, due to rather high prices. That is why we will consider how to make this simple device on our own. The hand-made trailer for the tiller is characterized by high mobility and quality. exactly the qualities that every farmer values.

How to make a homemade tow hitch for a tiller

If you decide to make a homemade tow hitch for a tiller, then let’s Get started on the implementation. To manufacture this trailer, you will have to spend several days of work. The carrying capacity of the trailer was calculated for the weight of the transported cargo of 400-450 kg. When tested, the trailer could easily hold 6-7 sacks of potatoes.

There were no overload problems. The trailer was designed for the transportation of goods in bags, therefore, folding sides are not provided.

Thinking over the constructive part of the project in advance. The trailer will consist of a sufficiently strong carrier, a body, a frame made of steel corners and reliable wheels.

  • Tiller attachment bracket;
  • Console;
  • Trailer device;
  • Footboard, we use s20 board;
  • Driver’s seat, we use s20 board;
  • Frame
  • Body, use s20 board;
  • Support beam, we use three beams 50×50;
  • Bolt М8;
  • The ring is persistent, we use a pipe 58×4;
  • Two wheels removed from the SZD motorized carriage.

The hitch for the trailer trailer consists of several parts. We connect different parts by welding. The junction of the drawbar and the swivel part The most loaded, therefore, reinforcing this place with additional stiffeners.

For the manufacture of the frame, we use cuts of pipes of round and rectangular sections, and steel corners. The design will turn out to be slightly intricate, but with an additional margin of safety. The reason was the difficult terrain and difficult operating conditions of the trailer.

For the brace, we use a corner 21x21x3;
2. The frame for the seat is also made from a corner 21x21x3;
3. Racks are made of pipe 50x25x4;
4. We make the seat racks from a 40x40x4 corner;
5 and 14. For the front struts we use a 50×25 pipe;
6 and 15. For longitudinal side members we use a 40x40x4 corner;
7 and 8. The right bearings of the wheel axle are made from a corner 32x32x4;
9 and 16. We make the rear struts from a 50×25 pipe;
10. For the manufacture of a reinforcing cross member, we use a 40x40x4 corner;
11. The body of the longitudinal hinge is made of 58×4 pipe;
12. For the manufacture of the wheel axle, we use a rod with a diameter of 30 mm;
13 and 17. For the transverse spars, we use a 40x40x4 corner;
18. To make a scarf, we use metal s4.

If heavy loads on the trailer are NOT planned, you can make a simpler option.

  • Swivel body;
  • For the drawbar, we use the pipe 49×3, L1820;
  • For the frame of the footboard, we use a corner 25x25x4;
  • For an emphasis, we use a 58×4 pipe;
  • For the stiffener, we use s4 steel;
  • For the lining, we use a strip of 25×4.

Wheeled here for the trailer to the tiller

For the manufacture of the wheel axle, we use a steel rod with a diameter of 30 mm. Welding we connect it to the spars and the body of the longitudinal hinge, using corner gussets and supports. Wheels should not protrude beyond the dimensions of the body, therefore we choose the correct size of the wasp.
The body is hammered by 20 mm boards and reinforced with a steel corner. Further, it is attached to the frame with three strong, support beams of the beam ties 50×50.

The center of gravity of the transported cargo must be closer to the front, as is customary for single-axle trailers.
The wheels are taken from the SZD motorized carriage. They were used assembled with the hub, and the ends of the axle rod were turned in accordance with the diameter of the hub bearings.

We make a homemade trailer and hitch for a tiller with our own hands

One of the most useful things in the backyard is the trailer for the tiller. Trailers for tilers are divided into specialized and universal. In addition, the trailer can be used together with a trailer. Since each model of agricultural machinery has a special design, these units can be of both small and large power.

Tow hitch for trailer

To connect the trailer to the trailer, a tow hitch is made. The shape of the upper part of the console is taken from the hiller handle, since the standard attachment bracket will be used for fastening. Around the axle in the lower part there is a swivel hitch. The remaining space between the angular contact bearings must be filled with grease and the boot covered.

The connection of the trailers and the trailer is made articulated, depending on the complexity of the trailer operation. The drawbar must be inserted into the tubular body of the longitudinal joint and fixed. This solution will allow the trailer to be independent from the wheels of the tiller, which greatly simplifies the control of the trailer on strong bumps.

The components of the carrier swivel unit are:

  • Tow hitch (1),
  • Anthers (2),
  • Bearings 36206 (3.6),
  • Case (4),
  • Spacer bush (5)
  • Remote (7),
  • Club (8),
  • Nut м20х2.5 (9),
  • Oiler (10)
  • Drawbar (11).

For the driver, a seat is made in the front of the body. It is done with a very soft base. So that the driver can rest, a step is made on the drawbar. In other words, the driver uses the control levers with his hands, and rests his legs on a special footrest.

Assembling the frame

The reliability of the frame is predetermined by the durability and strength that the hitch will have. This should be taken into account when creating a project for the future tow hitch. Thus, the following materials can be used in the manufacture of the trailer frame:

  • Corner and rectangular pipe.
  • The front and rear cross members can be made from a corner of 25×25 mm.
  • For side members, a 60×30 mm pipe is an excellent choice.
  • To connect all the elements, it is necessary to make five additional crossbeams, forming a lattice frame.
  • Four vertical posts are attached to the longitudinal pipes of this lattice at the corners.

Making a one-piece trailer is pretty straightforward. Some homeowners decide to make more sophisticated devices. In such a situation, all subsequent actions depend on the choice of a specific type of trailer:

  • On tipper hitch, the tailgate must be hinged.
  • If it is planned to manufacture a trailer with folding sides, then all three sides should have such a design, except for the front.
  • The frames of the folding elements should be made separately from the general frame. For simple models, they can be its common elements.

Making a trailer with your own hands

After studying all the design options in the manufacture of a homemade trailer for a tiller, the most simple options are most often used. The tipper device is certainly more difficult to make, but its functionality is much higher.

Do-it-yourself work on the creation of trailed devices for a tiller begins with a drawing. Thanks to this, it is possible to determine the amount of materials required and select complex assemblies that require the development of more accurate schemes.

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It should be remembered that the center of gravity of a properly balanced trailer should be located closer to the front side, but at the same time not going beyond the level of the wheel axle.

How to make a tow hitch for a tiller with your own hands

The use of a trailer for a tiller can significantly expand the functionality of this popular technical tool. However, the purchase of a ready-made device is not feasible for all owners of personal plots from a financial point of view. In such a situation, you can think about making a trailer with your own hands.

Frame sheathing

This is one of the simplest steps in creating a tow hitch. However, there are some nuances and they must be taken into account. To carry out work on the sheathing of the frame, it is worth choosing the materials that will NOT be able to increase the cost of trailed devices:

  • Wood. The most readily available material, but not the most practical due to its low resistance to moisture. In order for the boards to serve as long as possible, it is imperative to treat them with special compounds and constantly monitor the integrity of the coating.
  • Plastic. devoid of the main drawback of wood, but at the same time has a weak resistance to mechanical damage.
  • Metal sheets. must be pre-treated with anti-corrosion compounds and are the most durable, but also quite expensive material.

First you need to sheathe the bottom (floor) of the trailer, and then tackle its sides.

Tow hitch for trailer

To connect the trailer to the trailer, a tow hitch is made. The shape of the upper part of the console is taken from the hiller handle, since the standard attachment bracket will be used for fastening. Around the axle in the lower part there is a swivel hitch. The remaining space between the angular contact bearings must be filled with grease and the boot covered.

The connection of the trailers and the trailer is made articulated, depending on the complexity of the trailer operation. The drawbar must be inserted into the tubular body of the longitudinal joint and fixed. This solution will allow the trailer to be independent from the wheels of the tiller, which greatly simplifies the control of the trailer on strong bumps.

The components of the carrier swivel unit are:

  • Tow hitch (1),
  • Anthers (2),
  • Bearings 36206 (3.6),
  • Case (4),
  • Spacer bush (5)
  • Remote (7),
  • Club (8),
  • Nut м20х2.5 (9),
  • Oiler (10)
  • Drawbar (11).

For the driver, a seat is made in the front of the body. It is done with a very soft base. So that the driver can rest, a step is made on the drawbar. In other words, the driver uses the control levers with his hands, and rests his legs on a special footrest.

How to make a homemade tow hitch for a tiller

If you decide to make a homemade tow hitch for a tiller, then let’s Get started on the implementation. To manufacture this trailer, you will have to spend several days of work. The carrying capacity of the trailer was calculated for the weight of the transported cargo of 400-450 kg. When tested, the trailer could easily hold 6-7 sacks of potatoes.

There were no overload problems. The trailer was designed for the transportation of goods in bags, therefore, folding sides are not provided.

Thinking over the constructive part of the project in advance. The trailer will consist of a sufficiently strong carrier, a body, a frame made of steel corners and reliable wheels.

  • Tiller attachment bracket;
  • Console;
  • Trailer device;
  • Footboard, we use s20 board;
  • Driver’s seat, we use s20 board;
  • Frame
  • Body, use s20 board;
  • Support beam, we use three beams 50×50;
  • Bolt М8;
  • The ring is persistent, we use a pipe 58×4;
  • Two wheels removed from the SZD motorized carriage.

The hitch for the trailer trailer consists of several parts. We connect different parts by welding. The junction of the drawbar and the swivel part The most loaded, therefore, reinforcing this place with additional stiffeners.

For the manufacture of the frame, we use cuts of pipes of round and rectangular sections, and steel corners. The design will turn out to be slightly intricate, but with an additional margin of safety. The reason was the difficult terrain and difficult operating conditions of the trailer.

For the brace, we use a corner 21x21x3;
2. The frame for the seat is also made from a corner 21x21x3;
3. Racks are made of pipe 50x25x4;
4. We make the seat racks from a 40x40x4 corner;
5 and 14. For the front struts we use a 50×25 pipe;
6 and 15. For longitudinal side members we use a 40x40x4 corner;
7 and 8. The right bearings of the wheel axle are made from a corner 32x32x4;
9 and 16. We make the rear struts from a 50×25 pipe;
10. For the manufacture of a reinforcing cross member, we use a 40x40x4 corner;
11. The body of the longitudinal hinge is made of 58×4 pipe;
12. For the manufacture of the wheel axle, we use a rod with a diameter of 30 mm;
13 and 17. For the transverse spars, we use a 40x40x4 corner;
18. To make a scarf, we use metal s4.

If heavy loads on the trailer are NOT planned, you can make a simpler option.

  • Swivel body;
  • For the drawbar, we use the pipe 49×3, L1820;
  • For the frame of the footboard, we use a corner 25x25x4;
  • For an emphasis, we use a 58×4 pipe;
  • For the stiffener, we use s4 steel;
  • For the lining, we use a strip of 25×4.

About Tiller: exchange of experience, maintenance, repairs and attachments. Types and features of structures

Trailers have different carrying capacities, and this is one of the criteria used in their classification. Most often, at home, there is no need to use devices with a high lifting capacity. In addition, all tiller trailers can be divided into groups in accordance with their design:

  • Solid. have the simplest design, in which the bottom and walls are fixedly connected.
  • With hinged sides. great for transporting bulky goods.
  • Tipper. convenient during unloading operations and allows you to increase their productivity.

When planning to buy a trailer or make a cart for a tiller with your own hands, it is important to take into account some design features.

If everything is quite simple with one-piece towing devices, then in the case of other types it must be done. Particular attention should be paid to the following factors:

  • Two-axle tipper devices with a high lifting capacity are equipped with a hydraulic drive for easier work.
  • In single-axle models, tipping is most often carried out due to the special location of the center of gravity and it will be enough to equip them with a manual device.
  • Trailers with a lifting capacity of more than 350 kg are equipped with a mechanical brake system.

Photo tow hitch to tiller

Trailed to the trailer, hand-piled. Youtube

Trailed to the trailer, hand-piled. The Brovchenko family. How to make a connection mount between a trailer and a trailer. Tipper trailer for tiller by own.

How To Make A Hitch To A Tiller

tiller swivel unit. Youtube

tiller, a swivel unit for a trailer, made of water pipes without the use of tokarka.

Land Rover Discovery 4 towbar thanks to MMM. Do it yourself.

Hello!
May 20, 2015 from the comrades Slavik in 2.5 hours installed electricians Hak-System for the original Thule towbar.

The protected end is lowered into the gap between the bumper and the body at the point of attachment of the rear lamp (in photo 8 in red)
Looking ahead, in this picture everything is already installed and carried out, it remains only to connect the flashlight.

Next, we need a steel wire about a meter long. We lie down under the car and push the wire into the right hole of the frame crossbeam. To the right (I write directions to my position under the car, (photo 9 in red).
Here I am under the car. All wiring already installed.

Then we put our right hand between the exhaust pipe and the bumper case. And we meet the wire (photo 10 in red). It’s not as easy as it sounds. The wire will crawl out into the right slot of the frame’s crossbeam and you will have to tinker with it to catch it. It’s difficult to get there (it’s just that my hands are thin. Not every hand can go there. By the way, at first I tried to push the wire through the beam without wire. Nothing happened, because it twisted or rested against the welded seams / reinforcements in the beam cavity and never reached the desired hole. That’s when I got all the contacts dirty :).
Rear underbody panorama, spare wheel retracted (lifting mechanism in the center). The photo shows all the installed wiring.
In the same place, we hang out the protected end of the wire, which we do here at the beginning of this stage. Now the end of the wire, which we met, bends around the part of the wire protected with polyethylene and we fix it firmly (the tip of the wire must be clamped right at the very end of the wire so that nothing sticks out to the side and “snakes” in the beam cavity).
Now gently pull the wire back out of the hole with your left hand and at the same time push the wire with your right hand so that the connection of the wire and wires does not break inside the beam (forgive the burdensome details, but a lot of things can bite the wire stretching from above, and the connection may break. We’ll have to do everything all over again, but this is NOT a pleasant occupation).
After I met the end of the wire in the hole, I removed the wire from it and punch it further into the adjacent hole on the left. Out. It was in it with “street” on the side, the towbar socket itself is installed (photo 9 in blue. Left hole). Seen from the street, this hole is the case.
Step 7. Now we need to lead the wires to the two lanterns. One end they have in common-soldered, and the second two end with a mother-folder (in photo 8, I hold in my hand the end of this highway from the left lamp). It’s easier with them. They do not need to be dragged through the crossbeam in the frame, because Folder-mother, which are on both sides of this highway, she simply will not fit.
We also protect both ends with a mother-folder with polyethylene so as not to get dirty (I just put them in a plastic bag and clamped it on the wire with soft wire for bundling wires). Lying under the car, pull the end of the wire, marked with a sticker with a letter “L”, to the left lantern. To the right, as seen from under the car. And the end of the wire, marked with a sticker with the letter “R”, to the right lamp. To the left, as seen from under the car (turquoise). We drag these wires over the frame along the second (if we count from the back) cross member of the frame. It is so flat, with holes, a spare wheel lifting mechanism is attached to it, it is clearly visible on it.We subsequently fasten the wires with clamps so that they DO NOT hang down or hang in such a way that the wires are above the cross member. We do this after everything is stretched and the lights are installed.
Here the help of a partner is needed, so that he accepts the wires from the outside-top. I met them in the gaps between the bumper and the body at the points of attachment of the rear lights. In general, Slavik not only helped me with this. He helped in everything! First of all, I helped to figure everything out 🙂 And with the wire and with the L-R marking on the wires, I saw and suggested, and much more. One head is good, as they say, but two are better. After he accepted the wires, he just hung them on the bumper.
The common soldered end of this line is just an outlet to the left (as viewed from under the machine) hole. The towbar socket will be installed there (blue in photo 9).
Step 8. Install the 7-pin towbar socket. Everything is simpler here. The instructions include a diagram that clearly shows the color of the wire into which socket of the socket is inserted. All work is carried out from the street, and not from under the car. First of all, threading all the wires into the rubber boot of the socket and pulling the boot along the wires in order to fix the wires hanging out of the hole in excess. I try on the boot on the Seat and make holes in it with an awl for the bolts of the socket.
Next, we need to disassemble the outlet. Disconnect the part with contacts from the body. There is a clip hidden behind the lid on the outlet, which must be returned and disconnected from each other. In general, I just tapped the socket in my palm and the contact part flew out. 🙂 Then we take a small slotted screwdriver, loosen the screws-clamps of the contacts and insert the wires into the connectors in accordance with the color scheme in the instructions. We tighten the screws and check the reliability of the connection by slightly tugging the wires (minimum effort).
After the wires are installed in the socket, Connect the contact part of the socket with the body and Install it on the Seat. Bolts and nuts were included with the socket, but the nuts were not necessary, since K. In the frame of my car there was already a thread for THESE bolts (by the way, Slavik also noticed this). We watered the carving “with a” and bolted the socket. It is necessary to tighten the bolts systematically so that the socket boot is evenly clamped between the socket and the frame. It is impossible to mistake the fit of the outlet. There is foolproof here. Bolt seats only match in one position.
The socket is already installed.
Step 8. Connect the first highway to the car system, which was installed at step 4 (in photo 4, the upper right folder-mother is already installed. It also shows that a brown wire is connected to ground).
Looking behind the left electrics door in the trunk. There, first of all, disconnecting the right 6-pin folder from the mother-stub (there is protection from the fool. Do not mix anything up, do not worry). This car already has a ready-made wire and connector, which is waiting for a hitch! 🙂 The mother stub remains hanging on the piston. Sharply pulling it towards you and removing it together with the piston. Next, we take out the piston from the plug. To do this, bend the locking clip and pull the piston along the guides, remove it from the cap (photo 12). Trash can.
He took off the cap from the plug.
Next, we put this piston on the mother from our wire, which we connect to the folder and return the piston to its place. We fix the whole thing. In photo 4 you can see how neat it all looks.

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Included with the electrician were plastic clamps of different sizes. They fix everything that dangles. 🙂 Conveniently!
Step 9. Connect taillights. To do this, we hook the folders from our output wires with the mothers of those wires from which we unhooked the lights (photo 8). And we already cling to their mothers lanterns. We put the lights in place, snap them into the guide clips and fasten them with screws.
Putting everything together in the reverse order. Returning the spare wheel to its place, fix the dangling wires, etc.
Checking! Until the trailer was bought. He’s on the way (also, of course, thanks to MMM). Everything works without a trailer. Look below (brake lights also work, of course). I have been traveling for several days and everything is in order. The final check will be made as to the trailer. With a trailer here “I will add”, of course.
I thank MMM and Sergey Mavrodi for the fact that I live like a Man and spend my time only on what I have a heart for.

With trailer!!
Z.Y.
Unsuccessful location of the block of control wires (this is behind the left rear wheel. On the side of the wheel, there is an anther type). I saw it “business” from under the car when he took off the patch. Now I’m thinking of protecting them somehow. Nafig will rot with our conditions. Maybe a big heat shrink tube or a rubber band? Tell me what is worthwhile in the comments, please. And the photo, most importantly, 13! :))))
Also thanks to MMM, I bought and installed (in service in “his” masters) protection of the air suspension compressor. Steel 3mm. Armor! Now you can not only belly fall on the stumps (they say that this compressor is a weak point, and the native plastic casing), but also a jack under it. There is a special jack seat. Placed directly on top of the original casing. I took off my dear one and cleaned it thoroughly, there was plenty of dirt there. The machine is often used for its intended purpose. But here’s the trouble. The bolt of the native casing rotted nafig! I started to unscrew it and rolled his head. In total, I had to drill, cut the threads and put a new one. After installation, the compressor even seemed to run quieter. (When they did this, I saw that the UNIT did NOT screw the bolt from the automatic transmission protection after changing the oil in the box. Well, that’s what they are paid such Big money for ?! But nothing. MMM to sort out the topic. Only together We Can Much!) The price of the issue is 2300r on existential.

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Tags: How, to make, trailed, device, to, tiller, do it yourself

Here is a prickly one. DIY towing device for homemade.

details on the website. Do-it-yourself trailer for a homemade trailer for Motor Sich tiller.

How to make a hitch to a tiller with your own hands. Experience of using the bike carrier on the car towbar. Homemade Attachments ON.

To make an adapter for a tiller with your own hands, you first need two wheels. The most important advantage over the drawbar adapter. How to make a hitch (hitch) for a trailer and trailer.

Equipment types

It is important here to start with the fact that all equipment that is attached to the front of the tiller is considered to be attached. Trailed devices are all elements that are connected to the device using a special hitch located at the back. When making a do-it-yourself trailer device for a tiller, it is important to consider one more fact. This group falls into two categories. The first category includes highly specialized equipment, and the second category. Multifunctional.

Hitch

There are a huge variety of different devices on the market that serve to couple the tiller and any device. It is only important to choose the right one so that it fits a specific adapter. However, if this is not possible, then it is quite possible to make a towing device with your own hands. Although this process will take a lot of time and effort, the result is worth it.

It is very important to remember a few basic rules here. The very first thing. This is the engine power of the tiller itself. If a self-made hitch is too heavy, then naturally the tiller will NOT move it. Most often, a do-it-yourself hitch with dimensions of 1 by 1.15 meters is made for a car. Using such a trailer, you can transport no more than 3 quintals of cargo at a time. If the volume of the tiller’s engine is 5 liters or more, then the dimensions of the trailer can be increased by 25-35 cm.

If the farm uses a very powerful tiller, the dimensions of the towing devices can be increased up to three meters. However, in this case, most likely, you will have to install an additional wheelset and reinforce the body. In addition, it will be necessary to use more durable and expensive materials in the production of do-it-yourself towing devices for the tiller.

Device categories

For example, a harrow or a potato planter can be used as a trailing device. These devices belong to the first category. Landing and steering mechanisms are ranked as the second type. In other words, this is equipment that is only intermediate between the tiller and some other device. These items are considered universal and are often referred to as adapters.

Trailers deserve special attention. It is believed that this is a highly specialized technique, since it can only be used for the transportation of goods. In fact, you can use a trailer to transport almost any item, which significantly expands the functionality of the device. It is also worth noting here that it is the trailer that is a striking example of an adapter that has an elongated shape, at the end of which a wheelset is located. The floor of this element is installed on the body, which is used for the transportation of goods. Currently, there are many different variations, differing in shape, maximum carrying capacity, type of wheelset.

Coupling assembly

To install a towbar with your own hands Do the following. The brace of the device is aligned with the corresponding mount. It is usually located under the wheel of a tiller. After that, the mount is fixed with pins. The most reliable option is the use of a spacer bolt with dimensions of 12 by 60 mm.

After that, it is necessary to mount the detachable towing devices on the plow, trailer or other. To fix the hitch with your own hands, you must insert into the resulting hole with a thread and a diameter of 16 mm. A screw is screwed onto this element. It is also necessary to drill holes on the sides, into which bolts measuring 16 by 40 mm are also inserted.

What you need to know?

To successfully operate a trailer or other device, it is very important to have a strong hitch element. It is he who is the trailing device with the help of which the equipment is moved due to the power of the tiller.

There are quite a lot of options for making trailing devices for a tiller with your own hands, but it is best to use the most simple and functional. It is necessary to use high-quality steel as a material for manufacturing, so that it can withstand huge loads. It is best to use a channel to create a hitch if it fits in size and thickness. A simple option is the U-shape of the hitch for the tiller.

Do-it-yourself trailer hitch for a tiller: drawing, manufacturing recommendations

Before moving on to the question of how to make a tow hitch, you need to figure out what they are. The thing is that the tiller has clutch assemblies both at the front and at the rear. In this regard, there are various devices that can be connected. In addition, the equipment differs in its functionality.

Assembly recommendations

The most important point, as mentioned earlier, is the material from which the tiller hitch is made. In this case, he will decide everything. After that, it is recommended to carefully select the raw materials.

In the selected Piece of material, you need to make several holes through which the parts will be connected using fasteners. It is also necessary to have a bracket on hand, which will also be used to make the hitch. Experts recommend bending its long end either up or down so that in the future it does not interfere with the next steps. However, here it must be taken into account that under no circumstances should it touch the ground.

Another simple but important tip. This is to take the factory model as a sample. If in the future you need a trailer with a non-standard attachment to the tiller, you will have to use an adapter.

The simplest construction of motoblock homemade products is called a hitch “pipe in pipe”. It is made according to the following principle. A pipe with a smaller diameter must be welded to the ends of the workpiece. It is with the help of this part that the coupling will occur. Another element of the same dimensions is welded from the opposite end. This part will be used to connect the tiller directly. This type of attachment is considered not only reliable, but also provides excellent mobility.

Work tips

It is recommended to make a drawing of the tow hitch to the tiller before starting work on its manufacture. It is also important to adjust the attachments. This is done on an individual basis, as the characteristics depend on the type of soil and the power of the machine. The advantage of a self-made hitch for a tiller is that it allows you to adjust for each block individually. After the adjustment is completed, you need to check it. To do this, it will be enough to drive a few meters. If necessary, the screw is tightened until the trailer reaches the desired position. Only then can all other screws be tightened securely and firmly. A do-it-yourself trailer hitch for a tiller is not so difficult to make according to the drawings.