How to make brakes on a power tiller trailer

Dump trailer for power tiller

To make your trailer a tipper trailer, when constructing the frame, weld the usual door hinges “drops” to beams 1 and 2 (shown in the photo below). To prevent the body from tipping over while driving and loading, it can be secured by welding a latch (such as a door latch) to the edge of the frame. Such a trailer is ideal for such models of motor-blocks as Neva MB-1, Neva MB-2, MTZ, Oka and other models of well-known manufacturers.

Power tiller clutch/brake adjustment ll Greaves power tiller ll Deshi Kishan

Braking system of the trailer

Before finding out how to make brakes on a single-axle tractor, it is advisable to become more familiar with such elements. They appear to be necessary for any motoblock with a trailer, because they allow you to quickly stop the moving unit, even in the presence of an impressive load.

This makes its transportation safer, which is especially important when travelling over uneven terrain with lots of slopes. For the manufacture of such elements it is strongly recommended to use ready-made parts from various auto and motor vehicles, which will greatly simplify the task. There are different types of braking systems and not all of them are suitable for use in the construction of a power tiller.

Preliminary drawings

It is best to work out the drawings yourself, for the model of your power tiller and the available materials. It is not necessary to have special education, a rough sketch will be enough. Below is a typical design of a single-axle trailer, according to which you can easily make a trailer for a motor-block with your own hands.

  • 1. welded frame (40×40 mm angle piece);
  • 2. tripod stand (band 150×40 mm, 10 mm);
  • 3. bracket (strip 100×40 mm, 10 mm);
  • 4. half axle (steel 45);
  • 5. wheel;
  • 6. drawbar (seamless cold-rolled tube, Ø 45õ4 mm, L = 1,2 m);
  • 7. gimbal head;
  • 8. hitch pin;
  • 9. Welded-on polish (sections of steel angle);
  • 10. drawbar pivot (hot-rolled round steel Ø 36 mm or a piece of steel pipe Ø 366 mm);
  • 11. nut (M36);
  • 12. washer;
  • 13. crossbar welded (piece of steel angle 4040 mm);
  • 14. Tripod axle (hot-rolled round steel Ø 40 mm);
  • 15. scythe (10 mm, St. З);
  • 16. nut (M20);
  • 17. Grover washer;
  • 18. bolt (M20).

Assembling the homemade trailer for the power tiller

Proceeding to the implementation of the project, the master self-maker needs:

make, brakes, power, tiller, trailer
  • create a working draft or drawing;
  • Prepare the material for the frame and other major components;
  • prepare the workplace;
  • make a marking of the main elements of the trailer structure;
  • make the alignment and the corners of the alignment;
  • assemble the template parts;
  • Fitting the assemblies purchased in their entirety to the elements of the structure.

Tools and materials required

To carry out the work it is necessary to prepare all the necessary tools:

  • welding machine;
  • an angle grinder with a set of cutting and abrasive discs;
  • measuring tools. tape measure, metal ruler, protractor, angle, marker and chalk, metal draftsman;
  • hammer, chisel, pliers;
  • A locksmith’s vise, a set of clamps, and welding clamps;
  • a drill, a set of metal drill bits;
  • rivet.

The materials needed are:

  • Steel square or rectangular tube 60×60 or 60×30 mm;
  • steel square tube 30×30 or 25×25 mm;
  • angle 25×25 mm;
  • channel beam;
  • Moskvich car springs;
  • steel sheet 2 mm thick;
  • Galvanized sheet metal 1 or 0,8 mm thick;
  • fasteners, bolts, nuts, rivets.

For a model with a rigid body, instead of a spring-loaded structure of the wheel pair on springs, you need an ordinary beam.

For the wheels of the trailer fit ready-made car wheels from the car “Tavria”, “Moskvich” or “Zhiguli.

The wheels should be chosen immediately with hubs, it will facilitate further assembly of the self-made machine.

The frame of the trailer is a fully welded construction in the form of a frame grid made of a square tube. Cross-bars made of 25×25 mm square form frame cross-bars, and longitudinal members are made of 60×60 or 60×30 mm pipe. All structural elements are cut after marking and laid on a flat surface, the joints are welded with small seams, and each joint is checked with an angle piece. After assembling the construction the final welding of all parts along the perimeter of all planes is performed. The frame is painted after the surface has been treated with a metal primer.

Undercarriage

The undercarriage is the most difficult element of a homemade trailer for a power tiller.

The undercarriage is based on a beam with hubs at each end. Studs are docked together so that they form a square. The joints are welded with a continuous seam. Wheel hubs are fitted on the axle ends and welded.

Careful assembly of the axle is checked by checking the parallelism of the wheel flats. the connection of frame and strut is carried out using leaf springs with the ends of the leaf springs being fitted into brackets welded to the frame and the strut being clamped to the center of the leaf springs using a sleeve.

chassis installed on the frame is additionally checked for resistance to rollover. As in a car, the axle spring group must have rubber bushings in the frame mounting bracket.

Body, frame sheeting

The platform is marked in relation to the grid, so that the allowance is left for fastening the side posts. The front and side boards are set firmly, and the rear board is made removable on door hinges.

Trailer sides have a frame construction of 25×25 mm angles. The corners are butt-welded, the seams on the inside are ground to level with the plane of the metal.

The removable sides are assembled in the following sequence:

  • sideboard frame;
  • the galvanized iron sheet is adjusted to the size of the frame;
  • the side boards are cut out and fastened with rivets through the corner.

Body floor made of 2-mm sheet iron is mounted on the frame and welded with a small seam around the perimeter every 3-5 cm.

Installing the sides starts with installing the front side, then the side sides are installed and welded together.

The tailgate is attached last. first the hinges are marked and welded, then the latches.

Other structural components

After body and frame are assembled, there is a folding bench. a wooden bench that is placed on top of the front wall and rests on the sides.

As the brake system of the trailer it is recommended to use parts of the brake system of the car, hub and wheels of which are used in the construction. To make the brake system work reliably, it is recommended to provide additional lever locks.

You may also be interested in homemade carts for power tiller.

Read about the attachments for the Neva unit in this article.

How to make brakes on the trailer to the tiller with your own hands

For truck trailers with GVW more than 3.5 tons requires the installation of a pneumatic braking system on the trailer and truck, it will not be discussed in this article.

make, brakes, power, tiller, trailer

For trailers with gross weight up to 3500 kg two types of braking systems for trailers are serially produced in the world: inertial and non-inertial electro-hydraulic. In the non-inertial electro-hydraulic braking system, the brakes are controlled by a special electronic device on the trailer, which receives signals from the control device installed on the vehicle. Such system is expensive, not readily repairable in everyday conditions, and the most important thing is that it wouldn’t work without installing additional equipment on the truck. Outside the U.S. this braking system is not widespread, so we will not consider its device too, and consider the device of the most popular mechanical inertial braking system.

Advantages of the mechanical inertial system in simplicity, reliability, maintainability, cheapness, no requirements to the towing car, and the main thing in high efficiency. Because of this combination of qualities, it is the one which is most widely used all over the world. Such brake system is installed practically on all Russian and European (and only 30% of trailers without a brake in Europe) trailers with a brake. It is called the inertia brake because it is the inertia of the trailer’s rolling braking action that activates the brakes on the trailer. In Russia the most common are trailers with mechanical inertia brake systems by AL-KO and Autoflex-Knott. Less common are BPW, Peitz and other components.

In addition to mechanical inertia braking systems, there are also hydraulic inertia braking systems. The hydraulic inertia braking system is similar to the mechanical braking system, but instead of traction the handbrake acts on the main hydraulic cylinder, as on the cars.

Conversion

Before you start the work it is necessary to perform some preparatory operations with the ready-made materials. To do this, the ropes and rods must be removed from the discs, and then the discs must be turned. To install such brakes on the trailer is quite simple. to do this, the drums should be placed on the hubs and fastened in their rear part. This creates a free space between the ribs of the drums. This must be closed by wrapping a strong metal wire around the ribs. Then the disc is mounted on the axle and fastened using bushes. Care must be taken to prevent movement of the disc in any direction. To do this, a piece of metal (angle or tube) is welded to the axle with a welder.

Next, the ropes are installed on the drums and pulled to the control place. in order to realise the control system a lever with gearing should be used. For this purpose, the control mechanism (with a lever) of the parking brake is suitable, but you can make a control system by yourself from improvised means. It is important that along with the control lever there is also a trailer brake control valve with a two-wire actuator. In such a simple way comes out a trailer with practical brakes.

make, brakes, power, tiller, trailer