How to remove a chuck from a Makita electric screwdriver

How to remove a chuck from a Makita electric screwdriver

It has long been no secret that it is an electric screwdriver that makes screwing screws in and out quicker and more convenient.

Every tool tends to wear out and malfunction. This is particularly true of moving and frequently used parts. In an electric screwdriver, a chuck is considered to be such a component. An element that is completely out of order should be replaced. But first we have to understand how to remove the chuck. To do this, you need to know a little about the technical characteristics of the device. You need a hammer, screwdriver, vise and some wrenches to make repairs.

How to fasten a chuck

Chucks are most often fastened to the shaft in these ways:

Morse taper is one of the easiest and most practical methods that began to be used in the 19th century. The plane of the shaft is machined into a cone with assigned parameters. A similar taper is located in the middle of the chuck. When they are combined, there is a quick and firm connection of the component parts.

The next method has a thread that is cut on the edge of the working shaft of the power tool.

The fixing screw is used to additionally connect the screwing chuck to the shaft. Typically, the screw has a Phillips screwdriver head, as well as a left-hand thread. It is necessary to unscrew the jaws at the chuck as much as possible to see it.

How to determine the method of attachment on a screwdriver

The method of fastening is easy to recognize if you look closely at the parts. The Morse taper chuck will have the following inscription: 1-6 V10. This means that bits with a shank diameter of 1-6 mm can be fastened in the chuck, and B10 is a Morse taper size indicator.

A chuck that is locked in place with a threaded fastener is labeled:

How to remove and change the chuck

If you are faced with replacing the cartridge, you should first deal with the way of fixing. To carry out the procedure with a minimum of effort, experts do not recommend overloading the electric screwdriver in everyday use. If you run the tool for fifteen minutes without interruption, the rotating parts may overheat and lock firmly into the socket. Then it will be more difficult to change. Experts recommend the proven ways to remove the chuck, described below:

  • Unscrew the threaded fastener by means of an L-shaped hexagon, which surely can be found in every owner. Then insert the hexagon (size. 10 mm) put the short edge into the chuck and tightly squeeze in the cams. After that, start and momentarily turn off the device at low speed, so that the free edge hits the table slightly, so the threads will loosen and you can unscrew the chuck.
  • If the chuck is held in place by a captive screw then
  • Unscrew the left-hand threaded screw in a clockwise direction.
  • Insert the hexagon in the cams and use your hand or hammer to turn the freed edge anticlockwise. The chuck can now be unscrewed.
  • If both methods do not work:
  • Remove the shaft on which the gearbox and the chuck are located from the open housing. Use a pipe wrench to remove the cartridge.
  • To remove and change the Morse taper chuck, you need to have a hammer with which the shank will be released from the housing socket.

Chuck removal: a Makita electric screwdriver

Usually Makita brand power tools are equipped with a threaded fastener with an auxiliary fixation by means of a screw with a left-hand thread.

  • Unscrew the fixing screw (clockwise).
  • Then activate the spindle stop button.
  • Wrap a thick cloth around the body and squeeze in a vise.
  • Clench the hexagon in the jaws.
  • Hit the free plane of the wrench with a hammer, the chuck is twisted and then removed from the shaft.

Chuck removal: Bosch electric screwdriver

Bosch screwdrivers are generally equipped with a fixing screw.

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  • Place the wrench in the cams and tighten for a few clicks.
  • Place the tool on the edge of the table.
  • Press the stop button and remove the chuck retainer on the shaft.
  • The chuck is removed counterclockwise.

All actions require special attention and sequence of disassembly/assembly.

Having received theoretical knowledge about the types of chucks, you will be easier to repair an electric screwdriver Interskol, Hitachi, as well as other manufacturers on your own.

How to remove a chuck on a Makita

  • How to remove the chuck from the drill
  • How to change a drill cartridge
remove, chuck, makita, electric, screwdriver
  • Screwdriver, chuck wrench, vise, wrench, hammer, punch
  • Vise, hammer, puncher, chuck wrench, wrench
  • How to remove a chuck from a drill in 2018
  • how to change a chuck on a drill
  • how to change a chuck on a drill
  • – vice;
  • – Soft vise liners;
  • – cartridge wrench;
  • – wrench;
  • – puncher;
  • – hammer.

Rimfire cartridges with and without primer were invented in 1845. The first round bullet placed in an igniter primer was created by the French gunsmith Louis Flaubert, who patented his invention in 1849. The Flaubert chuck was originally only available in 9 millimeter caliber, but over time its Caliber expanded to 4 and 6 millimeters. Because of their comparative cheapness, quiet firing sound and reliability, Flaubert cartridges and guns quickly gained popularity around the world.

This type of ammunition belongs to extremely low-power ammunition, whose muzzle velocity hardly exceeds 210 meters per second.The Flaubert cartridge, most common today, got its modern form thanks to American gunsmiths in 1888. Classic Flober ammunition is currently manufactured with a tapered, sheathless lead bullet, but spherical bullets are also available. Most Flober ammunition is in 5.6 mm caliber, but 4.2 and 4.5 mm caliber is just as common. In some cases, a little powder is added to them. such as in Czech-made cartridges.

The use of the Flaubert cartridge

Today, the scope of Flaubert cartridges is quite narrow, as their functionality is, for the most part, perfectly superseded by pneumatic weapons. However, they are still in use. As well as target shooting at short distances, also in self-defense with special revolvers made for this kind of cartridges. The quiet firing sound of Flober cartridges allows them to be used in guns that have a long enough barrel.The lack of gunpowder in these cartridges does not produce the muzzle flame that is the source of the loudest shot in a standard firearm.

Flaubert cartridges with spherical bullets are often used to shoot small rodents with smooth-bore rifles. Today they are produced less and less often. the Americans have taken these cartridges out of production in 1940, but they are still being made in Europe. In Russia it is very difficult to obtain Flaubert cartridges and weapons for them. The small-caliber bullets of these cartridges cannot fatally injure a person, so revolvers designed for them are not considered firearms. However, Russian law prohibits their sale because they do not have the necessary legal certification.

Construction and main types of cartridges

A cartridge or head is a metal cylinder that is attached to the shaft of an electric screwdriver. Its task is to securely fix the working bits under the fasteners. The chuck is fastened to the shaft by means of a thread or a special cone. According to the type of attachment, the clamping elements are divided into:

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The only difference between the two types is the way the bit is clamped. The quick-action chuck is screwed in and clamped by hand. Modern drills and screwdrivers use locking claws for shank diameters of 0.8 mm to 25 mm.

The BZP type is made up of these parts:

The heads are divided into single-coupling and double-coupling cylinders. The first type is used in screwdrivers with a locking mechanism. It enables the clamping unit to be rotated with one hand, because the second part of the body is fixed. Two-coupling cylinders use both hands.

In the self-clamping sleeve, the bit and drill bit are automatically clamped during screwing. There is almost no risk of twisting the bit with this type of electric screwdriver. When loosening and clamping the cams, the device makes a clicking sound.

It is not possible to tighten the jaw chuck manually, an L-type wrench is needed. It is inserted perpendicularly into the slot. The gear-type chuck, i.e. the toothed-ring chuck, is considered less convenient to install, but gives a more secure grip on the bit. This is a type of cam-type clamping cylinder. Such a chuck consists of three main elements. a cylindrical body, a rotating outer ring and an inner cam mechanism. Made of solid steel, the mechanism is made up of 3 cams which lock together when the ring rotates.

Variants of fixing on the shaft of an electric screwdriver

The chuck is fastened to the tool shaft by means of:

  • threads. For this, the threads on the cylinder and the shaft must be identical. Metal cylinder screwed onto the shaft.
  • locking screw. The fastener also needs to be screwed in and the screw itself only increases the contact between the chuck shell and the shaft. It has notches for a Phillips screwdriver and left-hand thread.
  • Morse taper. One of the oldest methods of fastening. The shaft of an electric screwdriver has a tapered shape, and the same groove is made inside the sleeve. When the outer and inner cone meet, the head sits securely on the shaft.

Dimensions and decoding

In order to choose the right replacement, you need to know its size. There is a special marking on the cone where:

  • The first numbers (through the dash) are the variants of the shank size, which is allowed to install on the product in millimeters.
  • The letter and the number next to it are the taper calibration. There are 9 different indicators.
  • In some cases, the taper may be followed by a number in the form of “1×1” (numerical values depend on the model), thus indicating the parameters of the thread. The value is indicated in millimeters or inches.

Some products may be marked slightly differently (e.g. 4. 15 mm ½. 22 UNF). In such a case, it is assumed that 4. 15 mm is the diameter of the bits allowed to be used, ½ is the thread size in inches, and 22 is the number of turns in one inch.

Vise may be required in serious cases

The first mandatory step! Unscrewing the retaining screw

The first necessary step in removing a chuck from most household screwdrivers is to unscrew the fixing screw located at the end of the spindle between the cams. This fastener is designed to prevent the quick-clamping node from unintentional “screwing” during work with the load in reverse (counterclockwise) mode.

For example, when unscrewing old fasteners, when it is necessary to increase the torque. In all this the chuck can remain stationary, locked with the bit in the work surface, and the spindle will rotate counterclockwise and can be unscrewed from the thumbscrews without any help.

  • Spread the cams so that the tip of the screwdriver can pass freely.
  • Unscrew the screw, making turns to the right side, as it has “left-hand” threads.

READ How Many Volts an Electric Screwdriver Charger Should Deliver

Attention! Grooves in the heads of screws vary in size and shape (straight or crosswise). It is therefore necessary to have screwdrivers with different tips.

Unscrewing a quick-clamp chuck from a screwdriver’s spindle If a “left-hand threaded” retaining screw has been unscrewed from the end of the spindle, there is an option to remove the quick-clamp chuck from the screwdriver.

Because the clearance between the socket and the housing is several mm, it is not realistic to lock the spindle with a vice or pipe wrench. That’s why there are several other ways to remove the chuck.

How to remove a quick-action chuck from a threaded drill

The particularity of the threaded connection of the chuck with the shaft is the left-hand thread of the fixing screw. It is designed so that when you rotate the drill bit and “bite into” the material, the shaft simultaneously tightens the chuck mount. Therefore, the answer to the question of how to remove the self-clamping chuck from the drill of this type is simple. you need to rotate the chuck, firmly holding the body, in a clockwise direction.

Usually, simply turning is not enough, you have to tap on the joint, so that the severely tightened threads parted a little and gave the opportunity to freely scroll the connection.

In more detail, the process of how to remove the self-clamping chuck from the drill is shown in the video.

    Since there is a fixing screw inside the chuck, it must be accessed. To do this, open the jaws of the chuck as wide as possible and put the screwdriver inside. Moving clockwise, unscrew the chuck from its seat. It is impossible to determine the type of the flats immediately, so you must first light inside the chuck and most likely try two or three different screwdriver bits.

Some models do not have a fixing screw. Then the chuck is simply unscrewed, but it will take more effort. Wrench or other handy part should be clamped in the jaws and the shaft should be secured with an open-jaw wrench.

Next, you rotate the tools in different directions (as shown in the photo).

WD40 is very useful. it sprinkles both the shaft and the fixing screw inside the chuck. It is especially useful if the screw head is clogged and can’t be identified if it has a slot or cross slot. After treatment with WD40 the slots are easy to clean and the threads are better.

The problems of the cartridge mechanism

In a modern drill, such as Interskol or Makita, the drill bit or other accessories are held in place by a cam-type chuck: 3 or 4 cams hold the cutting tool securely, they can only move along the axis of the drill shaft. The quick-clamp chuck is adjusted manually, the more complex designs used in modern drills. with a wrench.

the bit can run out during use because the cams have worn down after extended periods of use. Repair of the tool is made as follows: it is necessary to remove the device from the shaft, the same actions are necessary when the drill jams, because it can be removed only after complete disassembly of the chuck part of the product.

There is also the following problem: the chuck rotates in relation to the tool shaft. The reason for such behavior is damage to the threaded part of the device’s fastener, or the planting cone has sagged. The way out is to change the chuck for an equivalent that works.

How to remove and change the cartridge

If you are faced with a cartridge replacement, you should first deal with the way of fixing. To carry out the procedure with a minimum of effort, experts do not recommend overloading the electric screwdriver in everyday use. If you work with the tool for fifteen minutes without interruption, the rotating parts can overheat and lock firmly in the socket. Then it will be harder to replace. Experts recommend the proven ways to remove the cartridge, described below:

  • Unscrew the threaded fastener by means of an L-shaped hexagon, which you can probably find at every owner. Insert the hexagon (size 10 mm) with its short edge into the chuck and press it firmly into the cams. Then start and momentarily turn off the unit at low speed so that the free edge hits the table slightly, so the threads will loosen and the chuck can be unscrewed.
  • If the chuck is held on the thread with a retaining screw then
  • Unscrew left-hand threaded screw in clockwise direction.
  • Then put the hexagon in the cams and with a quick movement of the hand or hammer turn the free edge counter-clockwise. The chuck can now be unscrewed.
  • If both methods do not work:
  • Take the shaft with the gearbox and the chuck out of the open case. Use a pipe wrench to remove the chuck.
  • To remove and change the chuck with Morse taper you need to have a hammer to loosen the shank from the socket.
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How to change a chuck on a screwdriver

The chuck on the tool “Interskol” is attached to the shaft by a thread and a counterbolt, which must first be unscrewed by loosening the jaws as much as possible with a wrench to gain access to it.

On a Makita screwdriver, the chuck is also removed in the following order:

The screw should be unscrewed clockwise, loosening to the maximum before the cams. After removing the screw find a hexagon socket 8 and insert it into the shaft and tighten the cams afterwards. Then put the screwdriver in reverse and, holding the hexagon with one hand, press the start button on the screwdriver with the other.

Note: The chuck will turn and unscrew quite easily if it is not used very often and for a short period of time and does not become overextended. If it has been used for a long time, you will have to make a small effort to unscrew it.

After you have unscrewed the old cartridge a new one can be fitted quite easily. You need to switch the screwdriver to normal mode, where rotation is counterclockwise, put it on the shaft and tighten it with short rotations. Then you need to tighten the counterbolt.

The Bosch wrenches have proven themselves on the market as being very high quality, because all the parts of the tool are resistant to wear and tear and, what’s important, they lock into each other securely. When dismounting the chuck, the last mentioned feature can make the process of unscrewing the fixing bolt much more difficult and prolonged, due to the fact that it is reliably fastened with a sealant.

For this reason you might need an electric impact wrench when disassembling the chuck on this wrench.

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How to choose a new chuck

Chuck for an electric screwdriver is chosen based on a number of aspects. When choosing a suitable part, it is necessary to be guided by the following recommendations:

  • if the bits will have to be replaced frequently, it is better to prefer a quick- or self-clamping cylinders; otherwise the work will be slower;
  • The toothed-ring design is the choice of those who seek maximum chuck reliability; if 100% bit retention is a priority, it is better to buy a key chuck;
  • when selecting a part, it is necessary to take into account its characteristics; the parameters are regulated by the relevant GOSTs; the larger the clamping taper, the larger the number with which it is marked;
  • It is necessary to take into account the country of manufacture. alphanumeric designations of foreign models differ from the domestic ones.

If it is difficult to determine yourself with the type of “clamp”, it is better to consult with a specialist.

The wrong choice is the same as at least for the wrong tool.

In the worst case, not only re-spending on a new cylinder, but also replacing the entire electric screwdriver is possible.

Chuck removal: Makita electric screwdriver

Usually Makita brand power tools are equipped with a threaded fastener with an auxiliary fixation by means of a screw with a left-hand thread.

  • Unscrew the fixing screw (clockwise).
  • Activate the spindle stop button.
  • Wrap tightly around body and squeeze in a vise.
  • Clench the hexagon in the cams.
  • By hitting the free plane of the wrench with a hammer, the chuck is twisted, and then removed from the shaft.

How to remove the chucks

The chuck can completely disintegrate, becoming unusable. the cams in it are unable to perform their task, it is impossible to clamp the drill bit. or start to backlash. The unstable element does not hold the bit tightly. Drill bits constantly flying out when working.

Inside the chuck there is a thread or a special cone for attaching it to the shaft. Structurally, the element is divided into three types:

Quick-action chucks are the most popular: the bit is held in place by the manual rotation of the electric screwdriver’s sleeve. The main difference between the types is that in one case the bits are fixed by hand, in the other. you can’t do without a wrench. Manual clamps save a lot of time because the user does not have to select a wrench. The main purpose of the chuck is to ensure tight contact between the working bit and the rest of the mechanical parts of the tool. The “key type” does this better, which is why it is considered more reliable.

Quick-clamping

The design does not involve the function of clamping tools when tightening the chuck. the bit in it is not so reliably fixed, unlike the self-clamping type. The quick-clamp chuck consists of:

The quick-clamp type is divided into two more types:

If a user buys a screwdriver of the first type, it should have a special locking device in the box of the screwdriver. it allows changing the tool without turning the chuck. Double-mounted types allow the bit to be inserted without additional attachments, which is more convenient when the drill needs to be changed frequently. The accessory is removed by locking one chuck ring with your hand and twisting the other.

Self-Clamping

This type is noticeably different from the quick-change chuck. It’s all about an interesting feature that allows the bit to be additionally clamped while the electric screwdriver is spinning. You can tell the difference between self-clamping and quick-clamping types by the distinctive click when you loosen or tighten the jaws.

How to remove the chuck

There are enough screwdriver manufacturers. each has little secrets for disassembling the chuck mount. However, the overall design is the same. So, there are several ways to disassemble the chuck.

Hold the chuck by hand

There is always a screw inside the chuck. It must be unscrewed with a screwdriver to the right. clockwise, because there is a reverse thread. Tool is inserted into the bore of the chuck. If the screw does not yield it will be needed:

When the screwdriver gives way, set the reversing mode and clamp the chuck. If you are going to pull by hand, it is better to choose the second speed. Further jerks in a clockwise direction manage to remove the chuck from the electric screwdriver.

Sometimes the screwdriver head can not be removed. Then switch to first speed, select reverse mode and clamp the chuck by hand. Then press the start button and secure the drive head with your hand. This is enough in 30-40% of cases, in the remaining 60% have to fiddle to dismantle the electric screwdriver.

How to remove the chuck from a disassembled electric screwdriver

Sometimes the gearbox of the tool fails. to repair it, the chuck has to be taken off the shaft. Process:

  • Find and unscrew the counterbolt inside the chuck.
  • Prepare the head (19 mm in most cases, but sometimes you have to adjust the size individually).
  • Put the head on the back side of the gearbox and fix it tightly.
  • With the other hand, gently unscrew the chuck counterclockwise.

That is all, you have succeeded in removing the element from the disassembled gearbox by simple machinations.

Using the hexagon

First unscrew the screw inside the chuck. clockwise. Next:

  • Use your knuckles to clamp the hexagon.
  • Set the torque for drilling. it is recommended that the battery be clamped to maximum.
  • Set the reversing mode.

The essence of the method is that the hex should hit something hard. This can be a table, stone, metal, etc. You need to bring the tool and press the start button. The hexagon will start to hit the surface and the chuck will twist off the shaft.

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How to disassemble a Makita electric screwdriver

In order to disassemble a Makita electric screwdriver, you must first disconnect the battery. Then, in the body of the tool, unscrew all the screws that hold the two halves together. After that, the body is removed, and all the external components are opened in front of the master: the engine, the gearbox and the switch. It is also worth noting that such models often have special plates that are responsible for switching modes. With not the most attentive disassembly, a small plate can simply not notice. After disassembly, you can immediately begin to repair the relevant part.

One of the most frequent problems of a Makita electric screwdriver is problems with the operation of the first speed. At the same time the second speed works fine. The problem is determined by the malfunction of the tool’s gearbox which prevents you from using the first speed effectively. Let’s see how to get rid of this problem and repair the electric screwdriver.

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Disassembling the Gearbox

The first thing to do is to disassemble the tool itself and separate the gearbox. Now it is important to remove all unnecessary parts at this stage. To do this, simply empty all the gears from the gearbox. It is worth noting that if there is no information about the exact location of each part, it is better to disassemble it sequentially and carefully.

Write down and mark the location of the gears. This is necessary for quality reassembly of the gearbox after the repair work. You can also use video tutorials or articles.

Screwing Bolts In Instead of Teeth

After all the gears have been removed from the gearbox, the inside of the device will be visible to the eye. Given the specifics of the problem, it is likely that the repairman will see that all of the plastic teeth on the inside have been worn away. This happens when the device is used for a long time or in case of gross violations of the rules of use. The plastic teeth are soft enough that they simply wear out due to temperature and mechanical stress. This prevents the main cog from engaging and causes it to wobble.

In order to repair and restore performance, you will need to rebuild the gears. It is not necessary to rebuild all the tines, but it is enough to install two iron ones.

To do this, you will need a drill bit, small screws and a drilling machine. Using a diamond tipped borer is desirable because it will effectively machine the excess portion of the bolt in a relatively short period of time.

  • At the location of the plastic tooth, drill a hole in the side wall of the gearbox. A drill bit with a slightly smaller diameter than the bolt should be used. That way you can screw it in firmly and make sure it is securely fastened.
  • Drill two holes diagonally to hold the gearbox firmly and keep the tool stable. In this way the load will be distributed over the two teeth.
  • During drilling, it is advisable to point the drill bit slightly downwards so that the bolt does not stick out upwards afterwards. Otherwise it will take much longer to work it with the drill bit.
  • Now you need to screw the bolts into the holes obtained with force.

After all these manipulations the tooth blanks are ready. Now you need to machine them properly and shape them accordingly. This is done with a drilling machine.

Using a drilling machine

The bolts are machined on the sides with a boroller and, if necessary, shortened in length. It is necessary to give the bolts the shape of a true tooth and make sure that the ring can be inserted without hindrance.

Important! It is not advisable to overheat the screws with the drilling machine. Otherwise it can get very hot and melt the surrounding plastic. The gear case will be deformed, causing more serious problems. So you must take breaks during the work. To allow the bolt to cool.

As soon as the teeth are ready, the crown gear can be inserted again. If everything has been done correctly it can be inserted without any hindrance. Two teeth are usually sufficient to make the gearbox work again, so screwing more screws in is not logical.

How to Repair an Electric Screwdriver Battery

Battery-powered screwdrivers are also very prone to battery wear. This happens over time, even with proper use. If you do not follow the rules of operation, the battery will stop holding a charge very quickly. And in this situation, there are two ways out: buy a new battery or try to repair the battery of a Makita electric screwdriver with your own hands.

The second option will require some time and effort, as well as the need for special cells.

The battery of an electric screwdriver is a set of a number of special power banks that are soldered to the charging controller and make up a complete structure.

Suitable power cells can be found in power banks or laptop computers. There are also such banks in some quantity. Laptops typically use 6 banks, and powerbanks use 4. But the number can be different and depends on the capacity of the battery.

If the craftsman has extra cells of such lithium batteries, they can be used to repair the battery of the electric screwdriver.

Disassembly of the battery

First of all, you need to disassemble the battery of your Makita electric screwdriver. To do this, it is disconnected from the electric screwdriver, and then all the screws are removed from it. The battery case is opened and you can see the construction of the cell itself. There will be 10 cans soldered to each other and soldered to the power controller.

It is necessary to disconnect the banks from the board. To do this, use a drill with a special nozzle.

Disconnecting the cans from the board

Using a drill bit with a disk nozzle, the cans are sawed away from the board. The connections of each contact to the controller are removed one by one, and the elements are disconnected from the common skeleton.

It must be done carefully so as not to damage the board itself, but with enough force to ensure complete disconnection.

Soldering the new cells

Immediately after you remove the old batteries from the frame and the board, you can connect the new ones to them. Before soldering, it is advisable to properly deburr the banks and the board itself from any residual solder. This will make a better contact for a longer period of time.

Now all new cans from other devices are placed in the corresponding places on the frame and soldered one by one to the power controller. It is recommended to do this with a thick tip on the soldering iron, as you will need quite a lot of solder. The contact must be very good and have a large surface contact area.

After reassembling the cans it is recommended that the whole assembly is wrapped in the reassembly paper and put back in the box. The battery is then reassembled and closed with a lid that is fastened with screws.

Before use, the battery should be charged at a special station to its full capacity, and only then connect it to the screwdriver for testing. If done correctly, the battery will become functional again.

Replacement cans can be taken out of other batteries or bought separately. The cost for them is pretty decent, but still manual replacement will cost much cheaper than buying a new battery.