How to remove a drill from a Makita hammer drill

How to remove a drill from a hammer drill: expert advice

Construction work now requires the use of various tools, one of which is a hammer drill. With the help of this device, workers make holes of various diameters, as well as dismantle various reinforced concrete or stone structures.

Situations often occur when it is very difficult, if not impossible, to get the nozzle out of the device holder. In this regard, the question arises of how to pull the drill out of the hammer drill without damaging the device. To do this, you must first figure out what causes such troubles.

Instructions

The first step is to check if the rock drill has a reverse rotation function. If there is one, you need to turn it on and, swinging the tool from side to side, get it out of the wall.

In addition, you can arm yourself with a drill and make another hole near the existing one, and by loosening the punch, remove it from the structure.

If the above steps do not help, you will have to use a gas wrench. If the size is too large, then a steel plate can be used as a spacer. The key should be screwed onto the drill and hit on its handle with a hammer from the wall. These movements are not the most convenient, but the method is quite effective.

You can also use a reverse hammer to retrieve the drill, which is easy to find at any body shop. If this tool is not available, you can connect the hammer drill to the SDS connector of the accessory and pull it away from the work surface. This method is effective when the drill is stuck at a depth of no more than 10 centimeters.

If the drill gets stuck in the wall while drilling through with very little left until the end of the process, you can punch the stuck tool with a sledgehammer. It is necessary to beat in the direction of drilling. It is important to remember that you cannot hit the nozzle itself. you must use a board or any other pad to soften the impact on the drill.

To get around these problems, it is enough to remove the drill and drill hole as often as possible and clean it of dust, concrete fragments and other contaminants. In addition, a drill or other accessory can jam in the surface if there is too much pressure on it, so the tool must be held lightly. If the structure is reinforced concrete, that is, it has metal reinforcement, then there is a risk that the drill will get stuck in it. Therefore, before starting these works, you should check the location of these metal elements with a special device.

In some cases, it happens that the drill jammed the hammer drill. This is usually due to the use of a cheap, low quality tool. In such products, the fasteners do not withstand the load and are deformed. In some cases, it is enough to clamp the tool in a vice and try to unscrew it. In the most difficult cases, you will have to disassemble the cartridge. To do this, the first step is to dismantle the upper rubber product, as well as the retaining ring, which is located under it.

Ways to get a drill from a hammer drill

As soon as the drill gets wedged in a concrete wall, floor or any other similar structure, you must immediately turn off the rotation mode, if enabled, and leave only the impact. After that, you need to pull the tool towards you, while pulling it to the other side of the surface in which it is stuck. These movements will lead to the fact that the drill will break part of the concrete layer holding it, after which it should simply and without much effort come out. This method will also help when the drill gets jammed in the wall structure due to the coarse fraction, and if the product gets into the reinforcement.

Another easy way to extract the drill from the surface is to use the reverse rotation function. This function is not available on all instruments, in addition, its use leads to the licking of the drum assembly of the mechanism. If the device has a warranty, then you can try to extract the drill using this method.

By clicking on the link http://vse-postroim-sami.ru/equipment/tools/9620_samodelnyj-vibrator-dlya-betona-iz-perforatora/, you will learn how to independently make a vibrator for concrete from a hammer drill. Read about how to choose the right hammer drill in this article. Perhaps you are also interested in what kind of drill bits are for drilling concrete.

There is also a rather extravagant way to extract the borax. To do this, you need a gas wrench. It must be screwed onto the nozzle, and then unscrewed in the opposite direction. This method works because the gas wrench has a fairly long lever with which you can apply a lot of force. But if this method still does not work, you can try to knock on the handle of the key with a hammer. At the same time, the punch should be loosened from side to side. The combination of these movements will cause the drill to come out rather quickly.

In some cases, before removing the drill from the hammer drill, you will have to make several additional holes with another tool. As a result, a large hole should form around the drill, the diameter of which should be about 10 centimeters. The drill will come out together with a fragment of the wall, the resulting hole can be repaired later. This method is suitable in the case when it is impossible to close in the wall or cut the drill.

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If none of the above methods came up, then the nozzle will simply have to be cut off the angle grinder, beat off with a sledgehammer or something to cover up.

Now let’s talk about what to do if the drill gets stuck in the hammer drill. This is most often due to the fact that the material of the shank does not withstand loads and deforms. To remove the tool, it is necessary to clamp it tightly in a vice. After that, it is necessary to turn on the reverse on the instrument, it is advisable to set it to maximum power. The start must be pressed with some interruptions, since prolonged operation in this mode will lead to a breakdown of the power unit of the device.

After the product is wedged, the perforator should be abruptly pulled out of the vice. They will contain a drill that is no longer usable. If the vice was not around, you can limit yourself to a thick wooden board. The hammer drill must be set up for drilling, but at the same time turn on the reverse. You need to drill until the tool “bites”.

Varieties and causes of drill jamming in a hammer drill

There are two most common variants of this trouble:

  • the drill gets wedged in the drill chuck or in the buffer element, which is used to install an ordinary nozzle into a hammer drill;
  • the product gets stuck in the clamp of the punch itself.

In the first case, the problem appears due to the fact that a drill is required to solve problems, which is used for a conventional drill. For its installation, there is a special product. the adapter chuck is the same as in a conventional electric drill. The clamping element of the punch is inserted into it, after which you can start work.

Standard punch scheme

After their completion, in some cases it is not possible to simply get the drill, since the lips of the clamping device hold it tightly. This problem is quite easy to solve, since its root lies in the misuse of the clamping mechanism. Some craftsmen simply forget about regular lubrication, so the tool wedges.

WD-40 fluid can be used to remove the drill from the rock drill.

In the second case, the drill got stuck in the hammer drill. This trouble appears for completely different reasons than getting stuck in the transition node. The nozzle in the electric drill moves around its axis, in some cases it makes weak reciprocating movements. This is due to the transfer of energy into the tool body through the lips of the clamping mechanism and the bottom of the chuck.

The hammer drill uses a different energy transfer technology, and accordingly, the nozzle in the clamp moves differently. Since the rotary-impact and just impact vectors of the tool movement are provided in the hammer drill. Energy is transmitted to it by means of a special striker, which is set in motion by means of a power unit powered by electricity. This hammer has a mechanical effect on the shanks of tools installed in the chuck, such as a drill, drill, bit or chisel.

Sometimes a vise is used to extract the drill from the hammer drill.

These elements are equipped with special grooves, with the help of which they are securely fixed in the clamping device. These grooves also serve to provide the tool with the power to rotate. Poor quality tools are made from soft alloys that do not undergo heat treatment. The shanks of such products cannot withstand high and prolonged mechanical loads, therefore they become unusable. In this case, you may have to disassemble the tool before removing the drill from the hammer drill.

Boer stuck in the wall: how to pull out?

In some cases, the drill can be firmly stuck in a wall or any other surface of reinforced concrete structures. In most cases, such a nuisance happens if the hole is drilled at a slight angle of 6 centimeters. There are several ways to retrieve the tool.

Recommendations for avoiding such cases

If after these operations the drill can go through the shank without any extra effort, then this tool is really of high quality. If deformation has begun, then at this stage the product will simply be removed from the clamping mechanism. It is important not to miss the moment when these changes start in order to prevent serious jamming of the drill in the rock drill.

A similar nuisance can also arise from the decision to use rather powerful equipment for solid objects, but keep the usual drills. Even the highest quality products that are not designed to handle any material will quickly fail and deform. Therefore, for each type of material, special attachments should be used.

It is important to remember that it is not always possible to independently remove the nozzle from the hammer drill. Therefore, you simply cannot do without visiting the service center, which will lead to the loss of the warranty. The fact is that the use of low-quality or unsuitable equipment is a user error.

How to save the key jaw chuck

If the reason is only mild corrosion or a deformed drill, you will need a gas wrench, chisel or screwdriver and a 700 g hammer:

  • Spray rust converter, grease or machine / any mineral oil into the chuck.
  • Let stand for 5-20 minutes.
  • Hold the chuck with a gas or plumbing wrench so that the drill is on the left hand.
  • Fix the structure with a vise, clamp or just feet.
  • Place the screwdriver on the clamping ring, in the groove between the teeth, tilting away from you.
  • Deliberately hitting the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer, causing the ring to twist.

If you have two gas keys, you can try to turn both rings in different directions at the same time.

Advice
Be sure to inspect the cartridge: there are no grooves, dents or other defects left on it and inside. If so, it is better to change the attachment. Open the chuck as far as possible and unscrew the screw on the “bottom” to remove the nozzle.

READ  The Hammer Drill Does Not Twist Under Load

How to help out a keyless chuck

Keyless chucks are usually used on screwdrivers, drills, and hammer drills. They do not have any rotating clutch, the snap ring retains the equipment. DIYers offer two ways to free the drill or drill:

  • Remove the upper O-ring, pull the chuck down, pry off the clamp ears with a wire and a screwdriver, stretch and also lift up. After that, grab the rig with narrow-nose pliers or pliers and, swinging or turning, pull out.
  • Extract the raster (the tube leading to the chuck). this is necessary so that the end of the drill becomes accessible. Drill out the tip with a conventional drill and a metal drill (cobalt or diamond-coated). The drill will then easily come out of the chuck. This method is almost the only one for hammer drills and percussion drills, in which the end of the drill was literally flattened, riveted.

How to free a two-sleeve chuck

One blow is enough. the ring moves and the drill is released quite easily. To facilitate sliding, it is permissible to drip a little oil or grease between the chuck jaws or under the clutch.

Reasons: why the drill got stuck

Experienced experts name three main reasons why the drill cannot be removed from the drill (regardless of the type of chuck):

  • Tool diameter too large. In the process of work, a too large drill is rubbed in and gets stuck like a dowel.
  • Weak steel and, as a result, deformation (most often, the tail wedges like an anchor) of the drill or drill. For the same reason, tooling breaks, especially in rotary hammers and hammer drills.
  • Inconsistency between shank and chuck clamping mechanism. This often leads to the fact that the equipment falls apart, and part of it remains in the chuck, but it also happens that the drill / drill simply gets stuck.

Another less common cause is rust. People who are often involved in repairs usually do not encounter this, but if a drill / perforator with equipment for a long time gathers dust on a balcony, in a shed, an unheated summer cottage, a garage, etc., the tool will corrode. In this case, the masters say that the sting “sour”.

How to remove the broken end of the drill from the chuck

When a drill, drill or other equipment with an unformatted tip (for example, SDS instead of a hexagon) is driven into the chuck, under heavy load and especially if the steel is of poor quality, the tip breaks. This happens especially often with perforators. the equipment falls apart where the balls grab it.

It is extremely difficult to extract such a piece. Awl, screwdriver, super glue magnet show low efficiency. A more risky way is to supplement the awl with a generous portion of oil.

Without disassembling the punch and chuck, the debris can be removed in two effective (but unsafe) ways.

This is a very quick method if a friend or in his own tools has a welding machine. If not, he will hardly be able to find an analogue. Another drawback that was noted on the forums is welding spikes, which can form randomly in both the chuck and the hammer drill. Such bows subsequently disable the instrument.

remove, drill, hammer
  • Remove the boot.
  • Pull the cartridge down.
  • Turn on shock mode and simultaneously press anything on the wreck.

At the same time, a splinter of a drill shoots (and where it will fall is unknown). The method is quick, but before the “muzzle” of the perforator it is worth putting something that will extinguish the impact of the “projectile”, otherwise the ricochet will easily cause injury or break something around.

How to remove a stuck drill bit from a drill, hammer drill, or wall

Problems with the tool can happen to both amateurs and professionals. A drill or drill stuck in a chuck or wall is usually removed with improvised means. It is more difficult to remove the debris left in the instrument. Which method to choose depends on the reason the drill is jammed and the tools available.

Drill / drill stuck in the wall. how to be

Forums and vlogs offer a variety of ways to remove a stuck drill. Once on a rock, it is usually possible to release the rig simply by turning on the reverse. But most often the drill gets stuck, having flown into a reinforcing bar of a large cross-section. It is jammed so that the tool does not cope and does not scroll, pulling is also useless.

In order not to destroy the cartridge, it is better to release the nozzle and leave it “naked”. Next, proceed with attempts to release:

  • If the drill is stuck in the ceiling, wind a chain around it and hang a heavy load, raise it to chest level and release it abruptly (it is important to have time to jump to the side so as not to get injured by the drill and / or load). The way is risky enough.
  • Clamp the tip in a vise, apply a lever and pull, swinging and trying to crank. This method is best done together.

The best option is to stumble upon the reinforcement and not try to grab it. Having met an obstacle, immediately remove the drill and go through the hole with a magnetic screwdriver. If there are chips left on it, you have a case with rebar. Tilt the punch slightly to go diagonally up or down the bar. A slight slope will not weaken the anchor fasteners, which are most often used in concrete.

Another option is to break through the reinforcement, but this is permissible only with thin rods, otherwise there is a high risk of getting a crack and weakening the concrete floor.

To drill a reinforcement:

  • Put aside the hammer drill and take a drill with a drill for metal (high quality steel is important).
  • Gradually drill through the reinforcement, first with a thinner (4 mm) sting, then with a larger one and finish with number 8.

Important
Under no circumstances try to pierce the reinforcement with a concrete drill. ruin both the tooling and, possibly, the cartridge.

There are no hopeless situations if you have ingenuity and desire. Proceed confidently, but carefully, and the drill or drill will come out of the chuck and the repair will continue without problems.

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How to remove a stuck drill from a hammer drill?

Repair work most often requires the use of a tool such as a hammer drill. They are drilled holes and dismantled surfaces. Any power tool is subject to stress during operation, and this gradually leads to malfunctions. Often, after the completed work process, a problem arises with the removal of the drill from the tool holder. It takes a little work to pull out a stuck drill.

How to remove a broken drill

The drill can not only get stuck in the tool holder, in some cases it breaks. Then only the shank from the nozzle has to be removed from the device. In this situation, thin-nose pliers will help. Ordinary pliers will not cope with the task, since they cannot be opened inside the cartridge.

The pliers should be inserted into the perforator with little force. Then they need to be slightly opened, grab part of the broken off drill and pull it out. You can first remove the rubber band from the tool to make it easier.

If the device has not jammed the shank, then the chuck is pulled towards itself and the crushing mode is activated. The puncher is positioned upside down. Due to the vibrations that have appeared, a piece of drill will fall out on its own. If none of the methods helps, you will have to disassemble the punch.

Varieties and causes of drill jamming in a hammer drill

There are two most common variants of this trouble:

  • the drill gets wedged in the drill chuck or in the buffer element, which is used to install an ordinary nozzle into a hammer drill;
  • the product gets stuck in the clamp of the punch itself.

Makita HR2450 Hammer drill Restoration

In the first case, the problem appears due to the fact that a drill is required to solve problems, which is used for a conventional drill. For its installation, there is a special product. the adapter chuck is the same as in a conventional electric drill. The clamping element of the punch is inserted into it, after which you can start work.

Standard punch scheme

After their completion, in some cases it is not possible to simply get the drill, since the lips of the clamping device hold it tightly. This problem is quite easy to solve, since its root lies in the misuse of the clamping mechanism. Some craftsmen simply forget about regular lubrication, so the tool wedges.

WD-40 fluid can be used to remove the drill from the rock drill.

In the second case, the drill got stuck in the hammer drill. This trouble appears for completely different reasons than getting stuck in the transition node. The nozzle in the electric drill moves around its axis, in some cases it makes weak reciprocating movements. This is due to the transfer of energy into the tool body through the lips of the clamping mechanism and the bottom of the chuck.

The hammer drill uses a different energy transfer technology, and accordingly, the nozzle in the clamp moves differently. Since the rotary-impact and just impact vectors of the tool movement are provided in the hammer drill. Energy is transmitted to it by means of a special striker, which is set in motion by means of a power unit powered by electricity. This hammer has a mechanical effect on the shanks of tools installed in the chuck, such as a drill, drill, bit or chisel.

Sometimes a vise is used to extract the drill from the hammer drill.

These elements are equipped with special grooves, with the help of which they are securely fixed in the clamping device. These grooves also serve to provide the tool with the power to rotate. Poor quality tools are made from soft alloys that do not undergo heat treatment. The shanks of such products cannot withstand high and prolonged mechanical loads, therefore they become unusable. In this case, you may have to disassemble the tool before removing the drill from the hammer drill.

Reasons: why the drill got stuck

Experienced experts name three main reasons why the drill cannot be removed from the drill (regardless of the type of chuck):

remove, drill, hammer
  • Tool diameter too large. In the process of work, a too large drill is rubbed in and gets stuck like a dowel.
  • Weak steel and, as a result, deformation (most often, the tail wedges like an anchor) of the drill or drill. For the same reason, tooling breaks, especially in rotary hammers and hammer drills.
  • Inconsistency between shank and chuck clamping mechanism. This often leads to the fact that the equipment falls apart, and part of it remains in the chuck, but it also happens that the drill / drill simply gets stuck.

Another less common cause is rust. People who are often involved in repairs usually do not encounter this, but if a drill / perforator with equipment for a long time gathers dust on a balcony, in a shed, an unheated summer cottage, a garage, etc., the tool will corrode. In this case, the masters say that the sting “sour”.

How to remove a stuck drill from a hammer drill

Reasons for jamming

Why is a low quality shank flattened or bent? Flattening occurs due to the fact that the perforator mechanism itself is made in such a way that a special firing pin constantly hits the shank, which is accelerated by a pneumatic mechanism located inside the body. I wrote about this in this article of mine. The blow has a rather large force, which is why steel of poor quality cannot withstand. In addition, some do not use drill lubricant, which causes the liner to overheat, making the liner flatten even easier.

And if we talk about curvature, then its reason is quite obvious. The drill, sinking into the material, begins to experience more and more resistance. And if it is larger than that for which the steel from which the drill is made, then its bending may occur, including in the area of ​​the shank.

These are the reasons. Now that we have considered them, we can proceed to actually extracting.