How to remove the chuck from an impact drill
Chuck replacement and options for solving problems
In the household, the most popular tool is an electric drill. Electric drills, called peorators, have been very popular lately. This tool allows you not only to drill a hole, but also with the use of attachments to screw nuts, self-tapping screws, screws. Electric drill is a reliable tool and rarely, but fails. How to troubleshoot an electric drill. The main faults in electric drills are divided into mechanical and electrical.
Drill chuck: structure and varieties
A significant part of the drill models are equipped with so-called cams. This type is a hollow cylindrical body, on the surface of which is a movable part in the form of a ring or sleeve of regulation. One cylinder base is fixed on the drill shaft. The second base is used to clamp the nozzles. The process of rotation of the adjusting ring causes the movement of cams, made of metal. Approximation and removal of such cams depends on the direction of the ring rotation.
In order to fix it on the shaft, the housing is equipped with a special convenient threaded hole or has a special tapered surface. There are also types of chucks that are best suited for equipping specially designed models of peorator. It is possible to remove and change it by yourself. Cam-type chucks for drills allow to perform the fixation of the tool and shank in the standard range of 0.8-10 mm and 1.5-13 mm.
In order to ensure maximum fastening reliability it is important that the chuck is tightened with sufficient force. Jaw chucks can be:
To tighten or unscrew the adjusting ring on a “normal” device, you will need to use a special wrench.
The main types of drill chucks
Drill chucks are divided into two basic types by their design:
- Toothed-ring chuck, clamping of tool shank in which is carried out by means of a special key;
- Quick-action drill chuck (QAU), in which the clamping sleeve is actuated by its manual rotation.
Clamping cam chucks, installed on modern drills, allow to reliably fix the tool, the shank diameter of which is in the range of 1-25 mm. Devices of this type are practically devoid of disadvantages, the most significant of which is their rather high cost.
The most popular type of clamping device, installed on modern models of drills, is a quick-action chuck (HAC). Only takes a few seconds to engage the tool in the drill chuck, no wrench required. Clamping of the tool shank is achieved by manual rotation of the adjusting sleeve, which has a knurled on the outer surface that makes this procedure easier. This type of chuck is equipped with a special locking device to regulate the mechanical action created on the tool shank.
To clamp the drill bit, use one hand to hold the lower sleeve and the other to tighten the upper sleeve in a clockwise direction
The most significant disadvantage of the power take-off sleeve is that it does not reliably clamp the shank of large-diameter drills when the elements of the sleeve mechanism are worn. This causes the tool to rotate during operation.
Compared to the clamping devices of the category BZP, gear-type chucks to equip a drill ensures a reliable fixation of the tool in any situation. Users who frequently work with electric drills prefer this type of chuck. The only significant disadvantage of such devices is that the key, with which they are powered, is quite easy to lose. Meanwhile, this problem can be easily avoided if you immediately after the purchase of the drill, fix the key on the cord of the device with insulating tape or normal rope.
The diameter of the shank of the bit to be clamped in the mini drill chuck depends on the caliber of the collet
The mini drill chuck, which is mounted on compact drilling devices, is also very popular. The latter are actively used by master jewelers. The mini chuck belongs to the category of quick-action chucks for electric screwdriver or light drill. Such a small chuck, predominantly made of brass, is used for fastening tools with a shank diameter between 0.1 and 4.5 mm.
There are several varieties of them:
With quick-change chucks, the bit or drill can be changed in seconds without the need for any additional tools. They are divided into one-coupling and two-coupling types.
The latter requires one hand to hold the sleeve and the other to screw on the drill bit. One-frame chucks have a locking system that can be activated in the event of tooling changes. The disadvantage of such products is the low strength of fixation of drills. In addition, the use of plastic components greatly increases the risk of damage to the chuck.
Cam chucks are better suited for impact drills and rotary drills. They are stronger, so they are often used for work in difficult conditions. No plastic elements are used in such products, and tooling is fastened with a special wrench.
You can also find collet SDS chucks, which were created in the 70s of the last century. In the shank of this design there are two grooves, the size of which is 10 mm.
In this system, part of the drill has to be screwed into the chuck by 40 mm. It is fixed by locking balls. In addition, there are 4 grooves, 2 of which are fixing and the rest are used for guiding wedges. The spindle of the appliance equipped with this design automatically locks immediately after installation.
Before you disassemble a drill chuck, you need to figure out the type of attachment on the shaft: tapered or threaded. If the thread is left-handed, the manufacturers presciently put a stop screw. It can also be metric or inch.
Cone connection method is formed through the use of Morse cone (popularly called tool cone). Installation of the chuck on such a shaft is carried out with a small effort for tightness. This option is often encountered with screwdrivers.
The table shows a step-by-step algorithm for removing drill chucks.
|Chuck||How to unscrew the chuck on the drill. counterclockwise with a gas wrench. If necessary, the shaft can be clamped in a vice. In addition, the device is inspected to determine if it is in good working order.|
|Jammed drill bit||A hammer is needed to tap the bit out. Apply a few light blows to the jaws from above.|
|Technically||In order to dismantle the drill chuck, the tool comes with a special tool.|
|Popularly||The drill is secured with the drill bit down. Apply even blows with a hammer to the back of the tool. Thus the chuck is knocked out of the shaft.|
In the case of the threaded chuck installation is done in reverse order with the same steps that were performed during disassembly. In the second case, you must first tune the cone. Here you will need sandpaper (can be on cloth), file for burrs. After that, the clamping device is installed also with percussive movements, only with a mallet.
In the case of the SDS screwdriver on the peorator, the procedure is as follows:
- the rubber seal is removed;
- Using a flat screwdriver, the first locking ring with a washer is removed;
- the second ring is removed after lowering the shroud down by analogy, as for changing the nozzle;
- Remove the coupling guard;
- SDS is disassembled sequentially (be sure to damage nothing): ball, washer, spring.
The method of how to change the chuck on the peorator is simple. it is removed by analogy with the device for the drill on the threaded connection.
Reassemble the device in strictly reverse order. It is worth noting that the above procedures are necessary not only to repair or replace the chuck on the torch or drill. This is also important for the purpose of service and inspection of a serviceable tool.
In the case of a tapered chuck, replacement is easier. This type of chuck can be identified by the following markings: B 10; B 12; B 16; B 18.
Drill set includes a special device for removing chucks, however, experienced craftsmen simply turn the drill upside down with the drill bit, fix it and, applying even blows with a hammer on the backside, knock it from the shaft.
After dismantling, the tapered surfaces are ground with an emery cloth. If there are scratches on the surface, they can be removed with a file. The new chuck is put in place by hitting it with a mallet, seating tightly on the joint.
To remove a drill bit or other accessory that has jammed in a chuck, you need skill and experience with locksmith tools. If the clamp is defective, it must be replaced.
If interested in how to remove a chuck from an Interskol drill, read the information below. The clamp is on the inch right thread, but thanks to the reverse there is a possibility of fixation inside the product with a screw with a left thread. The cams are separated, a Phillips screwdriver is inserted, and the left-hand threaded screw is unscrewed. Because they are tightened so much, problems can occur. Do not tear the splines! Then try to unscrew with a gas wrench, but with the gearbox switched to low speed.
Problems with the clamping mechanism
Read the instructions for the tool before beginning work. This will help to avoid many problems. Remember that the drill is not used for milling, because the clamp cannot withstand this lateral load. Choose the right drill bit, pay attention to its sharpening, mark the center of drilling (with the core).
Sometimes the clamp jams during disassembly. If so, the unit is disassembled and thoroughly cleaned and lubricated. This is especially common after drilling holes in the ceiling, as debris falls inside the chuck. If the clamp comes off, increase the tension at the cone connection. To do this, heat the assembly to 110º in the oven and then install it in the cold mounting location. Runout is also possible, resulting from uneven breakage of the cams or worn tapered base. Parts need to be replaced.
When disassembling the chuck, consider its type. After completing all necessary assembly procedures, assemble in reverse order.
How to remove and change the chuck on the drill
In electric drills, a special device called a chuck is used to reliably hold drills. In domestic drills cam chucks are the most commonly used. With heavy use, they can fail and need to be replaced or repaired. Problems often arise during these operations. In this article, the master plumber will tell you how to remove and change the chuck on the drill.
The chuck serves as a landing place, a holder of the main working element of the drill, electric screwdriver or peorator. It can be a drill bit, but also a concrete drill bit for impact tools, a special attachment in the form of a Phillips or flat screwdriver. There are special drill bits designed for grinding, deburring of various surfaces. They are mounted on a rounded or multi-faceted pin, which is also mounted in the chuck.
Drill chucks differ in design and method of installation on the tool and are divided into three types:
Cone chuckThis chuck was invented in 1864 by the American engineer Stephen Morse, who also developed and proposed the use of a twist drill bit. The feature of such chuck is that the clamping of the working element is due to the mating of the two shaft surfaces and a separate part with a landing hole. The surfaces of the shafts and the drill bit mounting hole have equal taper dimensions, with angles ranging from 1°25’43” to 1°30’26”.The angle is adjusted by turning the base of the mechanism, depending on the thickness of the element to be set.Toothed-ring design
A more common type of chuck on hand-held power tools for home use. The principle of this chuck is simple. it has a thread on the end of the pin that comes out of the drill and the chuck is screwed on it like a nut.
The drill bit is held in the chuck by three tapered blades, positioned in the center of the chuck in the collet. When the nut on the collet is turned with a special wrench, the blades come together and clamp the shank of a drill or other work item. a punch for a mixer, screwdriver nozzle, impact chisel, tap.Quick-action chuck
Considered to be the most convenient option. This is the latest technological modification of this device in terms of time of invention. It is used in nearly every modern model by all well-known drill manufacturers.Working cutting or other element is also fixed by special petals, only for their clamping does not require a wrench. The locking blades are clamped by hand. by turning the adjusting sleeve, on which for the convenience of scrolling is grooved.To prevent the sleeve from unscrewing during tool operation, there is an additional lock in its base.How to remove the chuckSince all types of drill chucks have their own design features, their disassembly involves different actions. You will also need special tools.Possible disassembly and improvised or interchangeable means, but at the first disassembly is not recommended to experiment, as you can damage the tool.In general, the procedure is not complicated and is quite possible on your own at home.Tapered chuckThe Morse chuck mounting method is one of the most reliable, but also the least complex to manipulate. The design perfectly withstands force loads along the axis in both conventional drills and tools with an impact function. That’s why it is so widespread in manufacturing plants.There are several ways to disassemble the chuck.You have to hit the chuck from below with a hammer. The main thing is that the impact should be directed along the axis in the direction of the seat of the cutting element. the drill bit.
How to remove and change a chuck on a drill
In electric drills, a special device called a chuck is used to securely hold drills. Jaw chucks are the most commonly used in domestic drills. With intensive use, they can break down and need to be replaced or repaired. Problems often arise during these operations. In this article, the master plumber will tell you how to remove and change the chuck on the drill.
The chuck serves as a landing place, holding the main working element of the drill, electric screwdriver or peorator. It can be not only a drill bit, but also a concrete drill bit for tools with an impact function, a special attachment in the form of a Phillips or flat screwdriver. There are special drill bits designed for grinding, deburring of various surfaces. They are mounted on a rounded or multi-faceted prong, which is also mounted in a chuck.
Drill chucks differ in design and method of installation on the tool and are divided into three types:
Tapered chuckWas invented as early as 1864 by American engineer Stephen Morse, who also developed and proposed the use of a twist drill. The peculiarity of such a chuck is that the clamping of the working element is due to the mating of two shaft surfaces and a separate part with a landing hole. The surfaces of the shafts and the drill hole have equal taper dimensions, with angles ranging from 1°25’43” to 1°30’26”.angle is adjusted by rotating the base of the mechanism, depending on the thickness of the element to be installed.Toothed-ring design
A more common type of chuck on hand-held power tools for home use. The principle of this chuck is simple. at the end of the pin coming out of the drill is threaded and the chuck is screwed on it like a nut.
The drill bit is held in the chuck by three tapered blades in the center of the chuck in the collet. When the nut on the collet is turned with a special wrench, the blades come together and clamp the shank of a drill or other work item such as a mixer whisk, screwdriver bit, impact chisel, tap.Quick-action chuck
Considered to be the most convenient option. This is the latest technological modification of this device in terms of time of invention. It is used in almost all modern models of well-known drill manufacturers.The operating cutting or other element is also secured by special pads, but a wrench is not required to clamp them. Fixing blades are clamped by hand. by turning the regulating sleeve, on which for the convenience of scrolling is applied corrugation.Additional locking mechanism at the base of the sleeve prevents it from unscrewing when the tool is in use.How to remove a chuckSince all kinds of drill chucks have their own design features, their disassembly involves different actions. Special tools will also be needed.It is possible to disassemble and improvised or interchangeable means, but at the first disassembly is not recommended to experiment, because you can damage the tool.In general, the procedure is not very complicated and can be performed by yourself at home.Cone chuckThe Morse method of securing a chuck is one of the most reliable methods of securing a chuck without the need for complicated operations. The design perfectly withstands the forces along the axis in both conventional drills and tools with an impact function. This is why it is so widespread in manufacturing plants.The chuck can be disassembled in several ways.It is necessary to strike the bottom of the chuck body with a hammer. The main thing is that the blow should be directed along the axis in the direction of the seat of the cutting element. the drill.
Types of chucks
Now there are two types of this part:
The first type has additional categories:
- double coupling. it is possible to unscrew and tighten with two hands, one coupling is held, the second one is twisted to remove the nozzle;
- One-joint. all the operations described above are performed with one hand, this is facilitated by the system of locking the shaft during the removal of the nozzle.
A common characteristic of the quick-change chuck varieties is the change of tooling without the help of special tools.
The material from which the cartridge is made:
Plastic products are lightweight, but are not resistant to shock. Quick-clamp variations are used in both domestic and industrial applications.
The cam versions are more reliable, they are more shock resistant and robust, but the disadvantages are the relative weight of the part.
Fastening is done with the help:
The first fastener is named after the C. А. Morse in the 19th century. The connection is made by matching the surfaces of the shaft and cone with the bore due to the identical taper. Fastening is widespread due to simplicity and reliability.
In the second kind of connection, the shaft and chuck are threaded. Alignment occurs by twisting the chuck onto the shaft.
The third type is a modification of the threaded fastening. for reliability, the connection is fixed with a screw. It basically has a Phillips screwdriver head and a left-hand thread. The screw can only be seen when the cams are fully opened.
Determination of attachment
Cartridge retention can be determined by visual inspection. The Morse taper is marked as follows: 1-6 B22. The first numbers are the shank diameter of the bits used and B22 is the actual size of the cone.
The threaded connection is also identified by numbers and letters, for example: 1.0. 11 M12×1.25. The first part of the marking refers again to the shank diameter of the nozzle used, the second part refers to the metric size of the thread. On imported electric screwdrivers, the value is stated in inches.
Once the chuck has been removed, it is practically disassembled. Inspect removed parts for signs of damage. This is especially true for the retainer balls. If necessary, they should be replaced. There must not be any signs of splintering on the spring. Retaining rings sometimes break and can bend if the steel used by the manufacturer is of poor quality.
Tip: You can buy new circlips at a garage garage.
It is recommended to wash all metal parts with kerosene or gasoline during the inspection. When reassembling the chuck, apply lubricant to its parts.
There are several types of drills and other attachments for the torch:
- Standard straight drill bits. needed to drill holes in brick, concrete or stone.
- The bits. are needed to create not very deep, but wide holes. for junction boxes for electrical wiring and other things. For concrete it is better to use diamond-tipped chisels.
- Chisels. can be used for removing tile or similar work. Tip of auger is not hardened, it will have to be periodically sharpened.
- Pick bits. often used for making holes for pipes.
- Spade-shaped bits. for making conduits for electrical wiring.
The main part of the chuck. the shank. It is the one that is inserted into the chuck of the peorator. It is made of alloy steel and is highly durable. Markings on the shank indicate the type of bit.
The working part is made of special steels for a durable contact with particularly hard non-metallic materials: concrete, stone.
The shape depends on what the nozzle is used for:
- Auger. needed to create deep holes of different diameters.
- Bits with small helix groove slope angle. best for big number of small holes. Does not require great force during work.
- Steep helix bits with a large helix groove angle, which can be recommended for high-speed work in order to make a small number of rather deep holes.
Help: the working part of the auger ends with a cutting part, made in the form of a tipped tip. Each manufacturer keeps the composition of the alloy a secret. It affects the durability of the bit and the efficiency of the work.