How to remove the crankshaft from the trimmer

Bearing Removal From A Crankshaft

What tools are needed to unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt?

As noted above, when trying to unscrew the pulley from the crankshaft, the part rotates constantly, which makes it almost impossible to do without fixing means. In addition, getting close to the crankshaft pulley bolt is not so easy, given that it is located perpendicular to the axis of the car.

Before proceeding with the work on separating the pulley and the crankshaft, the following tools must be prepared:

    Socket head for the size of the bolt or socket wrench (most often the connecting bolt has a “cap” of 36 or 38 millimeters);
remove, crankshaft, trimmer
  • Lever for key or head, as well as extension;
  • Standard set of automotive tools;
  • A pry bar (or something similar);
  • Jack for raising the car;
  • “Stump” or “Tragus”, which can be installed as a safety net for the jack.

When all the tools are ready, you can proceed directly to the procedure for twisting the bolt and separating the parts.

How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt

Car repair is a process that has a lot of nuances, and it is not so easy to repair a car yourself without many years of experience. Even detailed instructions do not always help, since they do not take into account all the difficulties that the owner of the car may face during the repair.

If it is necessary to remove the crankshaft pulley during the repair process, difficulties may arise with the bolt holding the unit. And in this case, problems arise not only with the fact that he can “burn”, but also with his very position. Within the framework of this article, we will answer in detail the question of how to unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt in order to spend a minimum amount of time on this procedure and not damage the unit.

What is the problem when unscrewing the crankshaft pulley?

Even a person far from cars knows that the crankshaft rotates when the car is moving. Based on this, we can conclude that it will rotate even when trying to unscrew the bolt that connects the pulley and the crankshaft. The problem is that the direction of rotation of the unit and the threads of the bolt are the same. This means that when applying efforts to unscrew the bolt, it also acts on the crankshaft, which is scrolling.

It should also be borne in mind that during the movement of the car, the bolt is tightly tightened, and this was not done by accident. It is important that in no case does the pulley move away from the crankshaft while the car is moving, which can be dangerous not only for the car, but also for people in it.

There are other factors that do not allow you to easily unscrew the crankshaft pulley, in particular: corrosion, burning, coking, sticking, etc. Based on this, we can conclude that it is not so easy to separate the parts, and this will require not only special knowledge, but also a number of specific tools that are not available in every garage.

How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt

Note that it is necessary to carry out the work described below on an equal surface. Smooth asphalt is ideal, but not the ground, as the jack and other holding tools can “sink” under the weight of the vehicle.

Trimmer Repair – Replacing the Crankshaft Bearing (Echo Part # 9403536201)

To unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt, you must do the following:

  • Raise the car from the side of the right front wheel on a jack and, using a standard set of tools, remove the wheel;
  • Next, take an additional holding tool (most often it is a large piece of wood. “Stump”, a second jack or any other object that can act as additional insurance for the stability of the car). Place it next to the jack;

To make the process easier, we advise you to choose a larger extension cord.

You can use the standard tips for loosening coked, burnt, and stuck bolts:

  • Tap the edges of the bolt or nut with a hammer. Lightly hit the connecting components so as not to damage the threads and heads;
  • Lubricate the bolt with a special agent such as WD-40. If there are no similar ones at hand, you can use engine oil, brake fluid, sunflower oil, or even vinegar.
  • If you can see that the bolt is burnt, you can use a pry bar to “wiggle” it a little.

As you can see, it is not difficult to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt if you do the work “wisely”. It is also recommended to tighten the bolt (with locked flywheel teeth) in order to fix the parts as tightly as possible, and they do not unscrew on the road.

Trimmer preparation

When starting to use the device, study the manufacturer’s instructions to find out the type of oil for lubricating the blades (if necessary, for the model you have chosen), how to remove the knives and other nuances. Next, prepare the device for operation:

  • Lubricate its head with oil so that it gets on the blades.
  • Turn on the device for 20-30 seconds. Thus, you can check the efficiency of the device, and the lubricant is more evenly distributed over the knives.
  • After checking, turn off the trimmer and wipe the blades to prevent trimmed hairs from sticking to them while shaving.

Using a beard trimmer

The question of how to shave correctly with a trimmer is asked by many men who have never cut their hair with this device. In reality, there is nothing complicated here. If you learn how to use a typewriter, you can always stay in trend and forget about visiting a barbershop.

How to use a beard trimmer: stylist tips

The electric trimmer is a relatively new “technical trend” designed for effective styling and removal of facial hair. Since the device has appeared on the market recently, not every man knows how to use a beard trimmer correctly. Meanwhile, it is an excellent solution for the stronger sex who want to always look well-groomed and neat. Learning how to use the trimmer can save you a lot of time and keep your beard in top condition.

How to use the trimmer: shaving steps

Before starting a haircut, decide on the desired length of the beard. With a long beard, three device settings for different lengths are sufficient. If you like a short beard, you can only cut your hair with blades. no attachments are needed. Shaping a particular style, such as a goatee, requires a variety of features, including the ability to swap out standard blades for a head with smaller blades for high precision shaving.

After that, you can start shaving:

  • Start shaving your beard with long hair and then work your way down to short hair. To give your beard a well-groomed look, you need to use the long attachments. Shave your chin against hair growth. Since the hairs grow downward, cut from the bottom up to shorten them.
  • Change the attachment to a shorter one and start shaving your neck. Start at the Adam’s apple and work your way up. If the original length of beard hair is more than 5 cm, then for their initial haircut, you must remove the attachment and use only the trimmer blades.
  • Move on to shaping the contours. To do this, treat the neck with a zero nozzle. Trimming the beard on the cheeks can be done with a trimmer without attachments. Draw the lateral outlines towards the ears, pulling gently on the skin with your hand while shaving in hard-to-reach areas. To achieve a more thorough shave of vegetation, you can use a razor or electric shaver.

When shaving, the flat part of the brush head should be applied to your face for the best results. All movements must be smooth and slow, otherwise the device will not have time to cut vegetation. It is advisable to keep the device at an angle to the skin. in this case, the hair length will be even throughout the beard.

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To trim the antennae, move the device in any convenient direction, giving the hair the desired shape. If you want to shave off your mustache completely, you can use the trimmer without attachments. To do this, you should close your mouth, smile and remove hairs along the entire line above the upper lip.

To avoid clutter while shaving, it is best to place a waste basket under your feet. When clipping, a lot of cut hair will fall off the blades, especially when cutting a long beard, so you should take care in advance that they do not scatter around the bathroom.

Choice of attachments

The trimmer without attachment can be used when trimming the beard and mustache. As for cutting, for this purpose, various accessories are used, which are selected depending on the desired length. To shave your beard with a trimmer, you usually choose 1-10 mm attachments, as they allow you to precisely trim the stubble and cut long hairs. In some models, you can use only one attachment, which is adjusted using a special wheel and a lock.

Choosing a beard grooming device

One of the main points in beard care is choosing a quality device that will effectively cut hair and keep the battery charged throughout the entire shaving procedure. When buying, consider the following recommendations:

  • Choose a beard trimmer with stainless steel blades. They have a long service life and allow you to shave vegetation without pulling.
  • It’s good if your device has a durable waterproof case, which will allow you to clean it under running water.
  • Pay attention to the handle. it should lie comfortably in your hand and have rubberized inserts that will prevent slipping.
  • The more attachments are included, the more convenient it is to use the device when caring for a beard.

For more information on how to choose a beard trimmer, follow the link to our article with tips for choosing a device.

Cleaning and maintaining the trimmer

Manufacturers recommend using the beard trimmer with care, because the quality of the care of the device largely depends on its performance and period of operation. Follow the guidelines below to keep your helper clean:

  • Wash the attachments after you are finished using the device. You can use warm soapy water for washing. Do not wash the device under running water if its body is not protected from moisture. This can cause corrosion on the blades or breakage of the trimmer.
  • Clean hairs from the trimmer regularly. To do this, you can use the brush that comes with the kit. Use a regular cotton swab to clean the grooves of the blades.
  • Remember to lubricate the trimmer with oil (if specified in the instructions for your particular model). This will allow the blades and motor to maintain their performance for a long time.
  • Charge the battery if it signals a low charge. If the battery is low, the trimmer can pull out hairs, resulting in discomfort and skin irritation.

Using the trimmer correctly will allow you to create your own style with a minimum of time. You can always control the formation of your image and perform stylish haircuts for your beard and mustache. no worse than that of a professional barber.

Line does not lengthen automatically

If the line does not lengthen when you lightly hit the trimmer button on the ground, then the reasons for this may be the following.

Option 1. a bite has occurred, i.e. clamping the cord between turns. This problem usually occurs if the user has been winding the line on the reel unevenly, with intersecting turns, or winding it with insufficient tension. In the latter case, when the mowing head rotates at high speeds under the influence of centrifugal force, the cord begins to tighten, as a result of which inter-turn clamping of the fishing line is possible. To fix the problem, you will have to disassemble the coil on the trimmer and rewind the cord correctly, that is, in even turns with good tension.

Option 2. too short ends protrude from the head. The line may not come out when hitting the ground if the ends sticking out of the head are not long enough (short). In this case, the centrifugal force is not enough to stretch the line. Therefore, it is required to stop the unit (turn off the engine or disconnect the electric trimmer from the mains) and pull the line manually, after pressing the button.

Option 3. the line is brazed inside the mowing head. This causes the coil to lock and not spin when the button is pressed. Basically, this happens for several reasons: poor quality of the cord, overheating of the coil during prolonged operation of the unit, hitting the line against hard objects.

  • In the first case, third-party cord can be made of low-quality and low-melting materials that cannot withstand mechanical and thermal stress. Therefore, you should give preference to “branded” lines.
  • But, if you nevertheless purchased a fishing line of unknown quality, and it is often soldered during operation, then you can follow the example of some users who, after filling the cord into the reel, wet it with either silicone grease (from a can) or mineral oil. This procedure greatly reduces the likelihood of soldering the turns of the fishing line together.
  • Also, the line can be soldered if it hits a hard object (stone, fence, dry branch, etc.) during mowing. As a result, it stretches slightly and is pulled back into the head at high speed. From friction, the cord heats up, and its turns stick together. The only thing that can be done to eliminate this malfunction is to open the trimmer spool and rewind the line.

Repair recommendations

Mechanical problems associated with damage to the trimmer head. This component is most often subject to wear and tear, and also this element is often in contact with the environment. There are several options for breakdown, which is mechanical in nature.

Trimmer coil device

Trimmer mowing heads come in a variety of designs, both simple and complex. The figure below shows a disassembled semi-automatic trimmer head from a Husqvarna brushcutter.

This type of head is present in the complete set of most mowers and electric trimmers, such as Stihl (Calm), Patriot (Patriot), Champion (Champion), Bosch (Bosch), Huter (Hooter) and others. The device of the mowing head is quite simple. It includes the following details:

  • mowing head base;
  • button for semi-automatic cord feed;
  • bobbin (spool) into which the line is tucked;
  • spring;
  • eyes. through them the line comes out;
  • trimmer head cover;
  • line (cord).

There are also simpler trim heads shown in the following photo.

All these attachments do not allow you to change the length of the line in a semi-automatic mode (after pressing a button). If the cord breaks, you have to stop the mower and change it manually.

Popular electrocos models

One of the most popular options is the Stihl FSE-81 electric scythe. This is one of the most powerful lawn trimmers available. This machine includes the AutoCut C5-2 mower headset, designed for working in small areas. It is convenient to mow with it next to flower beds, borders. She cleans well the area around shrubs and trees, as well as carefully works the paths.

This braid has a number of advantages in that it electronically adjusts the rpm. The design allows you to keep trees from damage. The circular handle allows you to perform high-quality work, maneuver and mow in hard-to-reach places. Easy to transport.

There are other options that have proven themselves in gardening.

Major coil malfunctions

Users of electric trimmers and petrol cutters often face a problem with a semi-automatic cutterhead. Coil malfunctions can be as follows:

  • the line does not lengthen automatically;
  • the cord spontaneously comes out of the reel.

FSE 31

Lightweight and cheap unit. Ideal for small areas. They better collect, mow the grass after the lawn mower.

The cord lengthens spontaneously

There are times when the trimmer user notices a very fast line flow. However, he never hit the ground with a button to lengthen the line. The reason for the fact that the line spontaneously lengthens, being cut on a special knife on the casing of the device, may be the absence of a spring in the mowing head. Often novice users of mowers, trying to load the line into the reel, forget to install the pressure spring in the head, or completely lose it when opening the lid, and in the future, do not even know about its existence.

Also, the line can be lengthened without using a button if the spring is loose. If checking the spring has confirmed this fact, then several washers must be placed under it in order to enhance its clamping properties.

How to remove the coil from the calm trimmer

Stihl’s garden equipment has long established itself on the agricultural market. Electric trimmers of this company are distinguished by quality, reliability, stable operation even under high load. The Stihl electric kos lineup is easy to use and easy to maintain. This gives an excellent opportunity to use the technique even for a beginner.

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How to remove the flywheel?

Actually, the subject.
Not filmed in any creature, for half a day they tried it with all sorts of filmmakers. not a millimeter moved.

Echo Trimmer Repair – How to replace the Ball Bearing 6201

[Edited 9-11-03 axl]

And you can also do this: take out the camshaft, unscrew the flywheel bolt, take a metal bar, insert it over the camshaft into the bronze bushing and knock out the bushing together with the flywheel with a hammer. For one thing, respectively, you will replace the sleeve (it costs a penny), and you will not spoil the crankcase and you will not break off your legs

Damn, they took something off somehow. they knocked out the knee

for Shumi: sadist
for Justas: it was you who hung up and hammered by the flywheel?

in opposites it is always like this: what should be removed. fuck you out, and what shouldn’t fall off all the time!

for boxer: alas, that’s the way it is.

there in the flywheel there are two threaded holes specially for the puller on both sides of the center. they were specially made for people like you. the flywheel mounting bolt is unscrewed. then an iron plate is taken with a thickness of a millimeter 3 and a length not less than the diameter of the crankcase. the same holes are drilled in it as in the flywheel. then two bolts are taken with a thread pitch as in the flywheel holes, inserted into the plate, the plate rests on the ribs of the caster, the bolts are carefully tightened until the flywheel comes off. the operation takes a few seconds. AND NO HEMORA!

for tolyan: the smartest type. I have already killed 2 pullers, and bent one 6mm plate, and did not remove a damn.

for Max: like everybody does it and everybody does it, so you are stupid somewhere

How to remove the flywheel (magneto) from the crankshaft of the Oleo Mac 25 Sparta petrol cutters?

Why change the crankshaft oil seal, how to do it, we look at the order of work on my channel. Why.

then tell me where?

for Max: then tell me where?
then describe the sequence of your operations in detail

When I was taking off the flywheel, I also didn’t want to take off, and only with difficulty, when I pulled it with a puller until the bolts squeak and when tapped (quite harshly) it went. And then I took off the cover with even more difficulty. the puller did not work, because tore the threads out of the holes (the luminaire cover) and had to be barbarously knocked out from the inside. Such is the mysterious oppositor.

for tolyan: the removers have tried all sorts, including this one (I barely found it in the garage), but as for everyone it works out, I did a survey: half of it can be removed from the lungs by hands 3.14, half. mat and sledgehammer / erector / tractor

for Springer: there was a similar situation wedge at maximum speed (at the time of driving on the rear wheel) and so the splinter in the knee that in the flywheel dragged as much as half the circumference of the mating surfaces. here we are to tear this misfortune from each other

I turned it by 10-15 degrees. over, the key is almost intact, but the flywheel and knee.

It is necessary to knock on the puller, and when with bolts, too. Along the crankshaft along. And you can first warm up the connection with an industrial hair dryer, or with a blowtorch. carefully.

Clutch (steel pads) benzokos. Clutch trim tab malfunction. Causes and remedies.

The clutch does not disengage (when the clutch pedal is fully depressed, the gear lever does not move freely to the position or from the position of the engaged reverse gear)

Malfunction of the clutch drive. Remove faults Slow clutch pedal travel Adjust the cable drive The presence of backlash in the drive connections Remove faults or replace worn parts.
Breakage of the driven disc Change the driven disc Incorrect installation of the roller with fork Remove the roller and install it again. Trimmer breakage and methods of their elimination. Benzotrimmer is not a malfunction and ways. Lightly grease the ends of the fork arms and spring petals with wheel bearing grease Sticking in the splined connection of the driven disc hub with the input shaft Repair or replace the driven disc Warping or twisting of the driven disc Change the driven disc.

Slipping clutch. Violation of normal operation of the clutch drive Remove malfunctions Oiled friction linings of the driven disc Remove oil leakage and change the driven disc
Wear or separation of friction linings from the driven disc. Change the driven disc Warping of the pressure plate or flywheel Change the pressure plate or flywheel Looseness of the pressure spring Change the diaphragm spring The driven disc is not running in. Run in the linings of the driven disc by smoothly starting the car 30-40 times. Causes of malfunction: causes and remedies ”to record trimmer clutch. Do not overheat the clutch parts Overheating of the driven disc Cool the clutch

Gripping the clutch. Lubrication of friction surfaces of discs. Causes and their cause of malfunction. And fix the problem. Burning or formation of varnish on the friction linings Remove oil leaks and change the clutch disc
Worn input shaft splines. Change input shaft Warping of pressure plate or flywheel Change pressure plate or flywheel Contamination of friction surfaces with resin-like substances Clean surface contamination. Chainsaw clutch. malfunctions, causes and methods. Change burnt parts.

Malfunction of the trimmer clutch: At idle, the knife turns almost always, extraneous sounds are heard in the front of the engine, while the trimmer mows normally.
The grip of the brushcutter is the same as that of the trimmer.
Causes of malfunction: The trimmer clutch spring has burst (the petrol cutter clutch spring has burst).
DIY trimmer repair: Replace the broken clutch spring with a new one (see details below “How to remove the clutch on the trimmer”). Or, if only the hook is broken off on the spring, you can heat the spring with a burner, bend one ring to make a new hook and harden the spring (such a clutch spring can even work for several years).
Do-it-yourself petrol brush repair is similar to repairing a trimmer.

Trimmer malfunction: The trimmer clutch often slips, sometimes the clutch spring bursts.
Grip brushcutter like a trimmer.
Causes of malfunction: Worn trimmer clutch pads (brushcutters clutch pads).
Do-it-yourself chainsaw repair: Replace the trimmer clutch pads (for details, see below “How to remove the clutch on the trimmer”).
Do-it-yourself petrol brush repair is the same as trimmer repair.

How to remove the clutch on the trimmer / how to remove the clutch on the petrol cutter

  • To remove the clutch on the trimmer (removing the clutch on a petrol cutter is the same), you must first remove the muffler cover, metal stand, starter cover and cylinder cover so that they do not interfere with removing the trimmer clutch cover.
  • Remove the shock absorber cover (by unscrewing the two side screws), release the bolt tightening the shock absorber and remove the pipe from the shock absorber.
  • Unscrew 3 or 4 bolts and remove the clutch cover.
  • We evaluate the wear of the pads and the clutch drum, see if the spring is broken, inspect the condition of the bearing.
  • To replace, for example, the clutch pads (weights) of the trimmer clutch, it is necessary to remove the clutch spring, and then unscrew the axle bolts on the pads (if necessary, having previously locked the crankshaft by pushing a rope into the plug hole when the piston is in BDC).

The principle of operation of the centrifugal clutch trimmer.
While the trimmer is idling, the clutch pads, although they rotate with the crankshaft, do not touch the clutch drum, since they are compressed by a spring and do not transmit torque from the engine to the cutting equipment.
When the engine is running at speeds above idle (above 4000 rpm), the clutch weights under the influence of centrifugal force are expanded (overcoming the force of the spring) and resting with their outer friction surface against the inner surface of the clutch drum, they begin to rotate it, thereby transmitting torque from motor on the trimmer cutting equipment (or petrol cutters).

Clutch plate repair.

Rattling or knocking noise when shifting gears. Probable Prerequisites / TROUBLESHOOTING Weakening of the outlet springs Change the pressure plate Free play in the fork mount Dismantle and reinstall Oiled friction linings of the driven disc damper Remove oil leaks and replace the clutch disc Breakage of the driven disc damper springs Change the driven disc.

Release bearing noise with 100% clutch engaged. Probable Prerequisites / CORRECTIVE ACTION Disruption of normal operation of the clutch drive Remove malfunctions Stuck release bearing Clean from dirt, lubricate, check for burrs, notches and other defects Incorrect installation of the roller with the lever Remove the roller with the lever and reinstall
Weakening the return spring of the pedal Change the return spring.

See also  Petrol Trimmer Service

Release bearing noise when clutch is fully engaged. Probable Prerequisites / CORRECTIVE ACTION Disruption of normal operation of the clutch drive Remove malfunctions Stuck release bearing Clean from dirt, lubricate, check for burrs, notches and other defects Incorrect installation of the roller with the lever Remove the roller with the lever and reinstall
Weakening the return spring of the pedal Change the return spring.

Excessive noise. Probable Prerequisites / CORRECTIVE ACTION Throw-out bearing worn out Change the throw-out bearing Incorrect installation of the roller with the lever Dismantle the roller with the lever and reinstall it. Trimmer malfunctions trimmer is a convenient and affordable trimmer and how to fix them. Lightly lubricate the ends of the fork arms that contact the release bearing with wheel bearing grease.

An incomplete list of structurally similar petrol cutters (trimmers) with an engine displacement of 33 cm 3.43 cm 3 and 52 cm 3. for which the clutch clutch of the Chinese petrol cutter (trimmer) 33, 43, 52 cc is suitable:

Gas trimmers with engine displacement 33 cm 3:
Carver GBC.033; Carver GBC.033 S; Piran BC 330; IKRAmogatec BF 33; Aiken MC 255/33 L; SD. Master GBC.033; Texas BC 33; Texas CG 330 B; Ergomax BC.33 E; PROFER 330; Red star CG 330; Champion T 334; Profi BG330B; Prioritet 330; Green Field GF 330 B; Gardener GCB-330; Enifield 235; Packard Spence PSGT 330; Packard Spence PSGT 331; Garden Line NTCG330; Beezone CG330BF; RedVerg RD-GB330; Pegas CG330B; AKITA CG330; Resource RBK 330; Profi SS-BC330 and others.

Gas trimmers with engine displacement 43 cm 3:
Carver GBC-043; Carver GBC-043S; Piran BC 430; IKRAmogatec BF 43; SD-Master GBC-043; Texas BC43; Texas CG430B; Ergomax BC-43E; PROFER 430; Red star CG 430; Champion T 434; Profi BG430B; Prioritet 430; Green Field GF 430 B; Gardener GCB-430; Enifield 245; Packard Spence PSGT 430; Packard Spence PSGT 431; Garden Line NTCG430; Beezone CG430BF; RedVerg RD-GB430; Pegas CG430B; AKITA CG430; Resource RBK 430; Profi SS-BC430; Tsunami TG 43WS; Hammer MTK43; PRAKTIKA GTB43; AIKEN MC 255 / 43L and others.

Benzotrimmers with an engine displacement of 52 cm 3:
Carver GBC-052; Carver GBC-052S; Piran BC 520; SD-Master GBC-052; Champion T514; Prioritet 520; Enifield 255; ErgomaX BC-52E; Hammer MTK52; Gardenlux GTG52-3; DNIPRO-M B-52 M; Tsunami TG 52WS; Zenith ZTB-52/2300; Hyundai HY / GTG52-3; Watt Garden WMT-1853LB; Pegas CG520B; Magnum M-52 U-2; Atlant A 417 and others.

We draw your attention to the fact that the starter, housing elements, drive shaft and some other structural elements of these models of the petrol brushes may differ slightly, take this into account when choosing spare parts.

Removing and Lubricating the Upper Trimmer Shaft

First of all, we remove the lower part of the rod from the coupling, and then disconnect the coupling from the upper part of the rod (here we are talking about the coupling connecting the two halves of the rod).

Trimmer PRORAB-8406 with disconnected clutch and lower part of the bar

Now the most interesting thing: in some videos, like this one, holding the shaft coupling sticking out of the upper part of the rod from below with pliers, they knock it out of the rod with pliers along with the rolling bearing (here we are talking about the coupling connecting the upper and lower shafts). Some petrol cutters with a collapsible bar, as in the video, the coupling connecting the upper and lower shafts is pressed into the rolling bearing.

With our trimmer PRORAB-8406 and others like it, this number will not work. They do not have a rolling bearing, and the coupling (bushing) is an extension of the upper rod shaft. A circlip is installed in the upper part of this shaft, which must first be removed.

The place of attachment of the upper part of the rod to the clutch housing

  • Unscrew the central screw completely. It fixes the top of the bar by partially entering the hole drilled in it. Loosen the side clamping screws and remove the rod from the clutch housing.
  • We push the shaft out of the upper part of the rod towards ourselves, as far as play allows, in order to get to the retaining ring and remove it. A special puller may be needed. Removing the retaining ring.

Retaining ring on the upper shaft of the brushcutter

  • Without the circlip, the upper shaft can be easily removed from the rod from the opposite side. We lubricate it, not forgetting about the slots in the bushings (couplings) on the rod shaft and on the clutch shaft.
  • Put the lubricated shaft in place in the upper part of the rod and fix it with a retaining ring. Insert the rod into the hole in the clutch cover and align the hole on the rod with the threaded hole of the fixing screw.
  • Screw in the retaining screw and secure the upper part of the trimmer bar with the side screws in the clutch cover.
  • We clean the connecting sleeve of the rod from debris and install it from below on the upper part of the rod.

I don’t have a puller, but I use two large paper clips to remove the retaining ring. First, they need to be straightened, on the one hand, make half rings for the fingers, and on the other, bend small hooks.

We grab the holes in the retaining ring with the hooks and try to push them apart. With difficulty, but it turns out, and the ring starts to move. If you know another way to remove the circlip without a puller, share in the comments.

In many videos, the masters recommend using grease for the CV joints, this is the best option. In its absence, lithol-24 can be used to lubricate the bar shaft of the petrol cutter, which is oriented to temperatures up to 130 ° C. But grease, which has the worst lubricating properties and works at temperatures up to 70 ° C, is not recommended to be used.

However, if you urgently need to lubricate the brushcutter bar shaft, and there are no suitable materials, then grease or even ordinary engine oil will be better than nothing at all.

Shaft lubrication for petrol cutters, trimmers

Dismantling the petrol cutter bar (petrol trimmer) for shaft lubrication using the example of the PRORAB-8406 brushcutter. Removing the shaft from the rod is slightly different than shown in some of the videos on the internet. Consider when disassembling such devices.

Removing and lubricating the lower shaft of the petrol cutter

To remove the shaft from the bottom of the rod, first remove the coil reducer.

Lower trimmer gearbox PRORAB-8406

  • Unscrew the completely central locking screw. On the reverse side of the lower clamping screw, unscrew the nut and unscrew the screw completely to disconnect the coil reducer from the protective casing.
  • Loosen the upper clamping screw and remove the lower part of the shaft from the coil gearbox housing. We take out the lower shaft from the rod from the side of the gearbox.
  • We clean the shaft from contamination and lubricate it with grease for CV joints or lithol-24, not forgetting to clean and lubricate the coupling (sleeve) with splines in the gearbox.
  • We install the shaft in the bar, and the bar in the lower gearbox of the petrol cutters and align the hole on the bar with the hole for the central screw. We turn in the central screw. Next, we wrap the lower screw, clamp the lower part of the rod in the gearbox housing with the upper and lower screws and tighten the nut on the back of the lower screw.
  • Add 20-30 ml of grease to the coil reducer through the hole closed with the screw located in the photo on the right.

In the operating instructions for the petrol trimmer PRORAB 8405M, 8406M, it is recommended to lubricate the gearbox with grease or its analogs, in extreme cases, fill in liquid engine oil. Excess oil will leak out as the gearbox does not have seals.

In the user’s manual for the petrol trimmer PRORAB 8402P, 8403P, 8405P, 8406P it is written that engine oil for two-stroke engines can be used as a lubricant for the gearbox. There is no mention of solid oil and its analogues.

In order not to bother, lubricate the lower gear with your petrol cutters with the same grease as the boom shaft, or fill in engine oil.