How to replace the starter cord for lawn mowers

How to remove the clutch

Remove the drive sprocket before unscrewing the clutch. Remove the corkscrew washer and remove the sprocket and needle bearing. Unscrew the clutch. Remove the baffle plate and pump.

The control key of the Stihl 180 chainsaw has broken. how to fix

Frequent breakdown of the Stihl chainsaw, which happens through the fault of the operator, is a malfunction in the engine control mechanism. precisely, when the seat for the control lever breaks off due to its design features, to solve this problem, it will be necessary to replace the saw body, which is quite difficult to do on your own. Consider the do-it-yourself repair algorithm, according to which the chainsaw body is replaced:

• The body is released from the handle block;
• The starter is removed, for this, the covers are removed from the fuel and oil tanks and the starter mounting screws are unscrewed;
• Further, through the spark plug hole, a piston stopper is installed into the cylinder, the flywheel is unwound and removed from the engine shaft;
• The drive sprocket is removed and the clutch is unwound;
• Two nuts are unscrewed by 8 mm, holding the air filter housing and the carburetor, the modules are removed from the seats;
• The next step is to unscrew the 4 screws that hold the motor to the housing. Special bushings are mounted in the body of the Stihl 180 chainsaw at the place where the engine mounting screws are installed, which can fall out and get lost on their own.
• The last moment is the removal of the oil pump, rubber elbow of the carburetor and the fuel and oil tanks.

Install parts in a new housing in the reverse order. In parallel with the elimination of the main malfunction, you can check the rubber elbow of the carburetor, a part that has exhausted its resource and has lost its elasticity must be replaced.

The main malfunctions of Stihl chainsaws and DIY repair instructions

The Stihl chainsaw is a tool that is designed for harvesting wood, processing plants, creating landscaping and other household needs. In case of breakage of any parts or failure of the device, you will need to repair the Stihl chainsaw.

Major malfunctions

The chainsaw must be used according to the operating instructions, then it will last a long time and will not fail. All possible malfunctions of the Stihl chainsaw can be identified and eliminated by yourself. Consider the main problems that may arise in the components and design of the device, and how to repair the Stihl 180 chainsaw with your own hands.

Stihl 180 chainsaw repair: malfunctions and their elimination

The Stihl MS 180 chainsaw is considered one of the most reliable among the models in its segment. But the technique is the technique, and sometimes malfunctions occur, for the elimination of which it may be necessary to repair stihl ms 180.

You will learn more about the repair of units by reading the article.

Common breakdowns of Stihl 180

Common malfunctions on a Stihl chainsaw include:

• Breakage of the starter cord;
• Drive sprocket wear;
• Leaks in the chain oil supply system;
• Wear of the oil pump worm gear;
• Air leaks through oil seals into the engine crankcase;
• No spark on the spark plug;
• Lack of fuel supply in case of malfunctions in the carburetor (we will not dwell on them, since the repair and adjustment of the chainsaw carburetor is a fairly wide question and will be discussed in a separate article);
• Breaking the eyelet of the seat under the engine control lever.

Now we will consider the malfunctions in more detail and start with the repair of the oil pump.

Replacement of oil seals

How to repair a Stihl 180 chainsaw if oil seals need to be replaced? It is necessary to disassemble the motor, why at first it will be necessary to remove it from the chainsaw. Removal is done according to the method described in Fri: “The control button of the Stihl 180 chainsaw has broken. how to fix it”.

When the engine is removed, the 4 screws securing the motor pan are unscrewed, after which it is removed. Thus, by removing the pallet, we get access to the oil seals and bearings of the crankshaft.

The fundamental point when replacing oil seals is the reverse installation and sealing of the pallet.

To carry it out perfectly, you need to clean and degrease the pallet and its place of installation on the saw cylinder, and then grease with sealant and install the pallet by tightening it crosswise to the required force.

At the time of installing the pallet, it is fundamentally not to confuse the placement and install in such a way that the casting to hold the oil pump housing is placed in the opposite direction from the flywheel, otherwise it will be unrealistic to put the engine back into the saw body.

The assembly of the chainsaw after repair is carried out in reverse order.

Is it possible to repair the saw with your own hands?

This is the very first question that arises before the owner of the Stihl 180 chainsaw, which for some reason has finished working normally. Which is absolutely impossible to answer. It would be correct to say: of course, alas, is it necessary? It is more expensive to repair a chainsaw in a car service than to try to fix problems yourself, but using the services of professionals, you will receive guarantees and confidence in such a cut that the chainsaw will be correctly tuned and adjusted. To make a choice for you.

Another small aspect regarding the choice to repair without the help of others is not otherwise, this is that in order to diagnose a chainsaw and its upcoming disassembly and repair, you need to have some special tools and certain knowledge of the saw design. Otherwise, you will not be able to even unscrew and remove the flywheel without damaging it.

Installing or replacing the starter spring for lawn mowers, motor-drill, trimmer

But what if everything is in perfect order with the rope, and the reel (pulley) of the starter does not unwind? Let’s consider this issue step by step using the example of the starter of the gasoline ADA GroundDrill motor-drill, which has a pulley with two metal antennae for 2 hooks.

In the case of other types of manual starters of a similar design, which are widely used in gasoline lawn mowers, trimmers and motor drills, the whole process of repairing a starter will look similar, differing only in some nuances.

How to repair a gasoline tool starter with your own hands?

In the case of a break in the starter cord, everything is clear: we take out the old rope, take it that is suitable in length and thickness (linen is possible), pass it through the hole in the reel, tie a knot. Next, we charge the spring to the number of revolutions we need, only after which we fix the handle. and voila! details on how all this is done is clearly shown below.

Do-it-yourself gas drill starter repair, lawn mowers, trimmer

Today, we will consider the most common case when the breakdown is not so serious and show how to repair the starter with our own hands if the cord breaks off without any destructive consequences or does not wind up due to the fact that the spring inside just flew off, out of engagement. At least, initially I want to believe in it. But in order to find out whether this is so or not, you will need to disassemble the starter.

Starter repair: disassembly

We unscrew the screw with which the pulley is attached to the starter cover. We take out the antennae, the spring. We pull out the pulley itself carefully so that the spring does not bounce into the face. Even with the most careful disassembly, it usually immediately flies out of the coil and abruptly unfolds into a long metal strip or twists into rings.

Pull out the white starter coil carefully. do not get hurt by the spring!

If the spring bursts or one of its hooks breaks, then repairing the starter will not work simply and quickly. the spring needs to be replaced. In order not to spend money on buying a new starter, you can search only for it on sale.

If the starter spring simply breaks off, that is, one of the hooks is out of engagement, it is enough to insert it, if necessary, slightly tightening the hooks more tightly (just do not break it off!) Install the spring with an outer hook into the pulley groove and start twisting it, while holding with your fingers inside the coil and preventing it from jumping out of there.

Refueling the starter spring

Pressing the spring to the pulley, wind the spring inward in a circular motion

It may not seem so easy to insert the starter spring the first time, but everything comes with experience. With a little practice, you can easily wind the spring into the pulley in a maximum of a minute.

The starter spring is wound. It remains only to assemble the starter and charge the spring to the desired value.

How to assemble a starter?

The most important thing in the process of self-repair of a starter is to assemble it correctly.

After the spring is fully wound, you need to carefully turn the coil over and insert it into the starter housing so that the second spring hook enters the housing groove.

When installing the pulley (in this photo. black), we look through the hole in it so that the spring hook falls into the groove on the starter cover

Then, if there is a spring under the screw, we first install it, not forgetting to put washers on the bottom and top of the spring.

Carefully insert the cup with antennae into the grooves of the coil and tighten the screw.

Make sure that the washer on the spring does not fall out. Why is it important? The fact is that the spring scratches the plastic cup with its end, as a result of which the latter wears out and begins to press the screw more tightly against the coil. For this reason, a situation may arise that is very similar to a spring break: the handle is pulled out of the starter, but does not come back. However, when the starter screw is loosened, this problem disappears. It is simple to fix such a starter malfunction: just select a spring of the same diameter, but slightly longer, or put an additional washer. If we just loosely tighten the screw, then it will twist and fly out, and this will already increase the likelihood of a spring break, since the pulley will not fit snugly enough to the starter housing.

We screwed the coil to the body, now we need to tighten the spring. Before this, it is necessary to remove the starter handle from the rope in advance. If the knot is too strong, then you can simply cut it off or try to untie it, for example, using a pair of pliers. This is so that after you have cocked the spring, you can thread the rope through the hole in the starter cover. The other end of the rope must be fixed in the reel even before it is installed in the body; the rope does not need to be wound onto the pulley before pulling the spring. do this after.

So let’s get started. Without unwinding, insert the rope into the groove in the reel specially designed for it. Everything is ready, we proceed to tensioning the spring. To do this, we rotate the coil counterclockwise. in the direction opposite to the direction of rotation of the coil when winding the rope. It is more convenient to do this not on the knee, but by pressing the starter with one hand to the floor, and with the other turning the reel directly by the rope attached to it. If the experience is not enough, then you can rotate the pulley itself with both hands, but the rope will get in the way, which can create additional inconveniences. After the required number of turns is made, we pass the end of the rope through the hole in the starter cover, put on the handle, and fasten it with a knot. It is more convenient to do this together with a partner, so that the end of the cable does not accidentally reel inside the starter.

By the way, on your own, you can make some modifications to the design of the starter in order to more reliably fix the end of the spring inside the coil. At this point, who has enough imagination for that. Now I will explain why this is needed. It often happens that the spring in starters of this type, after the first such self-repair and installation of the starter on the unit, flies again after a few jerks. the hook does not hold in the coil groove. And this is despite the fact that the coil almost snugly adheres to the starter cover and the spring there certainly should not hang freely up and down, and even more so until the spring leaves the engagement. It turns out that when the cable is pulled, the spring pulls out, pulls it out of the groove. In this case, you can do the following: cut out a narrow strip of metal, which, in thickness, could squeeze tightly into the groove of the coil along with the spring hook itself. So the hook will not dangle freely in the groove, which means it will not be so easy for it to break out.

A metal plate tightly inserted into the gap between the spring hook and the groove walls will securely hold the spring

Another solution to the problem: drill small holes in the coil on both sides of the groove and, inserting the spring hook, fix it with a thin wire threaded through these holes. But here you need to contrive to make sure that this wire does not touch when rotating the starter cover from the inside and thus does not slow down the pulley. Alternatively, loosely tighten the screw or replace it with a similar slightly longer one. You can think of an option with the installation of some kind of gasket between the lid and the coil.

Does your power tool starter design differ from the above? Faced another malfunction, or do you know the best way to repair a starter yourself? Ask questions, share your experience with others. together we can solve the problem of frequent starter breakdowns once and for all!