How to secure a manual circular saw on the table
Table for a circular saw with their own hands
A circular saw is used to cut wood, plastic. Its cutting base is a flat disc of metal with a serrated outer edge. Choosing such a tool, everyone decides for himself what kind he needs: desktop, manual, stationary. Many people prefer the manual version. However, in some situations it is necessary to fix the saw. In this case, you can make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, getting the opportunity to fix the tool if necessary.
Deciding to make a table for a manual circular saw yourself, it is necessary to take care of the availability of all the necessary materials for the work:
- Laminated plywood (9 or 11 mm), size 800 mm by 800 mm;
- Laminated Chipboard 16 mm or other sheet material suitable for making the enclosure, sheet size 400 by 784 mm. 4 pieces;
- Bar 40 by 40 mm (the length depends on the method of installation);
- self-tapping screws;
For such a table any manual circular saw will do. Remember that when you attach it to the table, the depth of cut is reduced by 10-20 mm. So saws with small disks are not suitable for this table.
Step by step instruction how to assemble the table for the circular saw
Making the body. Sheet material for the body is cut to size: 400 mm by 800 mm. Fasten the parts with self-tapping screws and bars. It is better to lead the assembly, pre-drilling the outer parts of the box. You end up with a rectangular box without a bottom or lid. The upper part of the bars is later used for fastening a sheet of plywood.
Preparation and fastening of the plywood upper part. Milling a hole. First cut 800 mm by 80 mm out of plywood. Then measure the support shoe of the saw that will be attached to the table top. On the reverse side of the plywood, markings are made. You need 2 central axes. It is impossible to make a precise marking without them. Then marks are put on the plywood, corresponding to the size of the supporting shoe. Then the following measurements are taken, which the circular saw has: the diameter of the lower guard, its thickness, the maximum distance from the edges of the support shoe. According to the dimensions obtained, put the marks and cut a rectangular hole with the jigsaw.
Secure the saw to the plywood table top. First make 4 holes in the shoe. diameter. 10 mm. Then install the tool so that the working part goes into the sawed aperture. When the saw is aligned, it is necessary to mark the place of the holes. Marks are made in the central part. To keep the tool securely in place, you will need ploughshare bolts with a countersunk cone head (M8) for attachment. To install them, you will have to take care of a quality recess of the flat, it can protrude a maximum of 1 mm in an untightened form.
The plywood is drilled from the outside, the diameter of the resulting holes should be 8 mm, and then the countersinking for the flat should be made. When the holes are ready, the saw itself is installed on the sawing table for the circular saw, the bolts are tightened from the inside with the nuts with plastic grovers or spring washers.
Attachment of the tabletop to the body. Start button. First make holes at 30 mm into the corners of the plywood tabletop. Then drill a hole in the central part of the bars. Parts are connected by means of a steel coupling M8 to 18 mm. On the side, the usual “Start-Stop” button is installed. Inside the case, the power supply is laid, and the button on the tool itself is clamped.
Making the stop beam. The simple table for the circular saw will become much more comfortable if you equip it with a stop beam. The drawings contain all the necessary dimensions. The bar can be made of plywood, and fixed with full extension furniture rails. The resulting beam should slide over the surface at an angle of 90° to the cutting plane with a slight gap.
Stop for longitudinal cuts. It is made of an aluminum ledge. At 150 mm from the edges first drill holes for bolts, and then draw 2 lines from the bolt attachment point to the centerline. At the intersection and further towards the bolts at a distance of 30 mm make holes of 12 mm. Bolts from below are tightened with nuts. And along the drawn lines make tonic slots, their width can be seen in the photo.
Information on how to make a table for a circular saw can be seen in the video. This helps you to equip your workshop quickly and easily.
Some useful little things to know
Switching on the circular hand saw can be done in several ways.
The simplest and most incorrect: fixing the trigger lock button, plug directly into the mains, and disconnect if necessary. It is contraindicated to do so for 2 reasons:
The 2nd way is probably the most common. Everything is fixed, but the saw is not plugged into the mains, but into an adapter with an off button.
The 3rd way is the most correct, but it can deprive the owner of the device warranty. It is necessary to bring the plastic blanks for the on and off buttons to the table panel. Replace the wire with a plug with a wire that will be directly connected to these buttons. Safe for both the craftsman and the saw.
In fact, it is not at all necessary that the saw be attached exactly to the bottom of the table. Many ways have been invented whereby the circular saw can be moved overhead by means of additional aids. For example, if the circular saw blade is equipped on one side with a special platform by prefabricating in advance a rail of aluminum rectangular tube about 1 cm high and fixing it to the sawn surface strictly parallel to the cut, it is possible to make a precise cut. This is made possible by the platform that moves the saw along the guide rail without changing the distance to the edge of the cut.
There are a variety of circular plunge-cut saws. They have a controlled device that holds the saw above the workpiece and can be lowered as needed.
Do not forget about the fact that you can buy a stationary table together with the saw.
In this chapter we would like to say a few words about the saw blades themselves. They are:
The first 2 types of circular saw blades differ in the way they are sharpened. For cross-cutting work, a so-called negative angle of sharpening is used.
When the master does not know exactly what he will saw, or the range of products requires sawing in different directions, it is recommended to use universal discs. This will prevent the need to frequently change saw blades. The teeth of such discs are made of excellent material.
Carefully read and follow the instruction manual.
Features of the circular saw
Knowing these features is extremely important, you must consider the modes of operation of the saw, know the type of loads and take all possible measures to reinforce the most important nodes. Only with this approach it is possible to achieve long and safe operation of the home-made machine.
What are the common features of woodworking machines?
High speed of the saw’s teeth. This is how the quality of the sawing is ensured. But the high speed of the saw blade causes serious injury and great care must be taken during the construction of the machine. It is obligatory to install all the devices available on the industrial specimens Do not think that some of them are superfluous, and you can upgrade the factory specimens for the better. All points of safety rules are written in the blood of injured people, do not repeat tragic mistakes.
Not enough to withstand high static loads, although this is very important. The table can take great forces of this kind without any problem, but at the same time it vibrates when subjected to even relatively minor dynamic multidirectional loads. Such a condition does not have a negative impact on safety, but noticeably worsens the quality of the cut
On the surface of the lumber are noticeable traces of teeth, it is difficult to maintain the specified linear dimensions, etc. д.
Fire and electrical safety. Absolutely all electrical appliances, motors, starters and other special fixtures must be installed in strict accordance with PUE. You should know that dry sawdust not only burns very well, but at a certain concentration in the air it forms an explosive mixture. By the way, burning sawdust is difficult to extinguish, it floats on water and continues to burn.
Do not make the simplest machine at the expense of safety devices, strictly follow the recommendations of the designers. Decide what you need, woodworking machine or fresh problems?
You can make a circulating table with your own hands from different materials. The most common are:
Each individual option has its own merits. Laminated chipboard, plywood, and fiberboard are easy and simple to work with. In addition, these lumber is notable for its affordable cost. But products made of wood have higher durability and technical characteristics.
Attention: before assembling the product all wooden elements are treated with antiseptic compositions.
Drawing and dimensions
Before you start working, it is recommended to make a drawing of the product. On it indicate all dimensions, materials of manufacture and other important information. You can make a quality drawing of any furniture item with the help of special computer programs.
When making the drawing of the table, be sure to take into account the size of the circular saw. Each brand of tool will have a certain size.
If during the working process you like to leave materials on the table, then the size of the table top should be not less than 120 by 120 cm.
The process of assembling the table for the circular saw
First adjust the base to the optimum dimensions. Wooden table top is treated and left for a day to soak in an antiseptic compound. Grind the metal base to prevent jagged edges.
Wood preservative is a modern building material that protects all types of wood in structures.
The process of assembling the table for the electric saw:
- First prepare the squared timbers, which will be trimmed using the planer. They assemble a strong frame. On each side of the base must be drilled holes with a diameter of 5 mm.
- Also make holes of the same diameter in the crossbars.
- On the table top install the legs and tsargahs. To ensure fixation, it is recommended to take clamps. They will help fix the legs while the glue dries. They are additionally fixed with metal corners, tightened with self-tapping screws.
- Fastening of the saw table with M4 bolts. The process is performed on the reverse side.
- To make the parallel stop, two strips of plywood are sawn off. Their width should be similar to the width of the tabletop. The average size is 10 cm. The corners must be rounded and ground.
Important! When installing the electric saw it is necessary to fix the starter button.
A wire, which is put through the hole in the handle and twisted in the right position, is suitable for this.
A sheet of 20 mm plywood will be needed for the hand saw. The workpiece of the tabletop is made according to the chosen size. The marking is made with a pencil, the sawing is performed with an electric jigsaw. At the end, edge milling is performed. Be sure to sand the workpiece with sandpaper.
Care must be taken to ensure its stability. No loosening is allowed, otherwise it will affect the safety.
- The header is turned over, on the underside a marking is made for the hand saw. You need to put the saw without the disk to the base, make a mark of the dimensions of the sole.
- Make an indentation of 10 mm with the hand router.
- Then the saw is calibrated, and the marks are corrected.
- You should mark the bottom side of the table for the stiffeners. Prepare 50×100 mm board blanks for them. The optimal position is 10 cm from the table edge.
- The longitudinal ribs are sawn and fastened to the table top with joinery adhesive. Clamps are used for fixation. On a similar principle, the lateral stiffeners of the bars are fixed.
- After the glue dries, drill holes in the stiffeners and fasten them with self-tapping screws.
- For the legs of the table boards 50x100mm are used. The optimum average height of up to 110 cm. The legs are attached to the outside of the stiffeners with strong bolts. You can use 50×50 mm joists for better stability.
Hand circular saw is placed in the prepared groove on the underside, the sole is secured with screws. A toothed disc is inserted into the slot. Following the technology and following all the steps, you can make a homemade table with minimal effort for your height.
Regularly check the position of the table and its strength. The construction should be stable, without loosening.
Circular saw table
When choosing a circular saw, you should be guided by these characteristics:
- Saw power. If the volume of work is quite large, it is advisable to take a tool with a power of at least 1.2 kW.
- Cutting depth. The thickness of material to be cut depends on this parameter. In manual saws it is 40-70 mm. But when it is installed in the table will be a reduction in the area of 10 mm.
- Button placement. The construction of the saw table must allow free and safe access to all control buttons, otherwise you will need to modify the control system yourself.
- Turning speed. High rotational speed is a priority when cutting wood. This affects the quality of the cut. For plastic, for example, this is not very good. The high frequency of rotation of the wheel heats the plastic. You must choose an average performance. 3 to 4 thousand. revolutions per minute will be sufficient.
Choice of dimensions
Sawsaws sizes depend on the workshop size. Small room dimensions allow for a tabletop of 50 x 50 cm. Making the sawing table smaller does not make sense. it will be difficult to use it when processing long workpieces. Universal size for comfortable sawing Laminated chipboard. 80 x 80 cm.
For safety reasons it is recommended to place the saw in the middle of the worktop, at least 25 cm from the edge. this is the figure that results in a minimum width of 500 cm. The position of the saw blade also depends on how exactly it will be used. There are a total of three varieties of design:
Depending on the workpieces to be sawed, the depth and position of the disc installation depends on the workpieces to be sawed. For boards and plywood it should protrude over the tabletop by 50-80 mm, for logs. by 110-125 mm. The height of the upper part of the frame made of plywood or Laminated chipboard can be in the range of 35-40 cm. If you make the bed only of timber, this parameter depends on the section. The remaining part of the construction is represented by wooden legs, the size of which masters usually choose for their height. The total height of the saw table is about 1.0-1.1 m, but it can be reduced to 900 mm.
How to make a table for a manual circular saw?
Making and assembling a table for the circular saw is divided into certain steps:
- First we make the tabletop. For this purpose, thick plywood is perfect. It is from it we saw out the jigsaw blanks of the required size. Keep in mind, the larger will be the dimensions of the working surface, the more convenient it will be for you to work with the equipment.
- After cutting out the tabletop with an electric jigsaw, its edges are machined with a router.
- Now the circular saw is marked out for installation. To do that we turn the product upside down and mount the saw without the disk. Use the drawing to install the equipment. We make a marking on the table top for the dimensions of the equipment soleplate. Using a router we make hollows up to 1 cm according to the markings.
- Try on the saw and correct its position. Then mark out the place where the blade is to be installed.
- If you plan to saw at different angles, the marking of the cut will have a cross section in the form of a trapezoid, located vertically down.
- Then on the inside of the product we make a marking for the stiffeners. Further on the legs of the product will be mounted on it.
- The ribs are made from 5×10 cm board and are installed along the perimeter of the table top with 10 cm indent from the edges. Next, use a ruler to mark the center line for the trimmer, and by it mark the locations of self-tapping screws at 5 cm from the edges of the ribs and 15-cm along the entire length.
According to the marks through holes are made.
Circular saw table with guide (cross-cutting)
In the last article, the master homebuilder showed us how to make a guide, for a circular saw, for long lengthwise cuts. In this article, he will show us how to make a cross-cutting guide table. Use this tool to cut material at 90 or 45 degrees. To make the table, the craftsman used the following Tools and materials:.Boards;.Plywood;.Centimeter;.Plastic covers with threads;.Fasteners;.Clamps;.Marker;.Angle;.Circular saw;.Drill;.Metal blade;.Hacksaw;
Step one: the base The base of the table is made by the craftsman from multi-layered plywood. The size of the table must meet your requirements. He cuts a piece of plywood sheet 63 by 81 cm. To one of the wide sides he mounts a 55 cm bar. A guide rail will be resting on the joist. If the thickness of the material you cut will be more than 5 cm, then you need to attach a larger bar.
Step two: the guide rail Now the circular saw blade guide must be made. The craftsman measures the distance from the edge of the circular saw sole to the blade minus 1-2 cm. Cuts the plank to this width. The length of the board is equal to the width of the table. Cut three slats, one to support the opposite edge of the sole, two for the rims.
Step three: support block The guide will be attached to two blocks, the front block is already attached to the table, now we need to make the back block. The sawmaker places the two halves of the guide on the table and sets the saw on it (a block must be put under the guide so that the blade does not rest on the table). Measures the edge distance at the beginning, middle and end of the guide. The distance must be the same everywhere. Cut a bar equal to the measured size.
Step four: Installing the rail Now you need to attach the rail to the table. It is important to keep a right angle when installing the guide. The master uses the square and after alignment fixes the rail with clamps to avoid shifting when fixing. Then drills the holes and fastens the larger part of the rail with screws.
Screw the second (smaller) part of the rail. Here it is also necessary to keep the right angle and distance between the boards. The saw blade must move freely along the guide rail without slipping. After the guide is fastened the saw blade is lowered and a shallow cut is made in the table.
Step Five: the cut under 45 degrees To be able to accurately cut the board at an angle of 45 degrees the craftsman fixes a bar oriented at this angle on the table.
The circular saw is a rather dangerous tool. The sawing table must be positioned so that the saw is exactly in the center without any shift in its center of gravity. Based on the diagrams made, a pencil marking is made on the board, and then the jigsaw is sawed out the base. After that the obtained tabletop should be carefully sanded to make it smooth.
After all the work is done, the table top is turned over and the marks for the cavity for the sole of the circular saw are made on the inside. Use a router to make an indentation. The saw is installed in the homemade table, carefully fastened and checked for strength.
Making a table for the circular saw with his own hands do not forget about the ribs. They greatly strengthen the construction, especially in conjunction with self-tapping screws.
Last to be assembled are the legs for the hand-held circular saw. Dimensions, as well as height, depend on the master, the main thing is to secure them with screws and self-tapping screws. Put them slightly spindle, and control the strength with the same rigidity ribs.
Assembling the frame with legs
The base or frame of the table is collected from a set of transverse and longitudinal wooden bars, which are attached to the bottom of its cover, increasing the rigidity of the entire structure in general. Four bars with a cross section of 50×50 mm, placed at an interval of about 7-9 cm from the edge of the table, are quite sufficient for this. They are fixed on the bottom of the lid with suitable size self-drilling screws at a spacing of about 23-25 cm. On its front side the fastening elements are recessed into the material, completely hiding their flats. You can make the frame stronger by pretreating the articulated surface of the joists with a layer of carpentry glue, just before attaching them. After you connect the adhesive-soaked blanks, the latter are firmly fixed with clamps, removable immediately after the glue dries. The legs of the structure can be made from bars of the same section as the blanks for the frame (50×50 mm).
The construction of the table must be strong and rigid
The shape of the legs is chosen so that they provide maximum support area for the frame part of the base and have a shape tapered towards the flooring. On one of these legs are subsequently placed controls for turning on and off the circular saw, duplicating the buttons located on its body.
Additionally increase the rigidity and stability of the entire structure you will be able to use a set of steel corners, mounted in the area of its joints. For fixing it is recommended to use standard bolts with washers, which should preferably be set with their heads outward.
Handmade with a guide rail
It is not often that a domestic handyman has to saw deep and “long”, and the hand-held circular saw is a useful thing in its own right. In addition, the manual circular saw with a guide rail can cut wood both crosswise and along the fibers, and at any angle. Cutting lengths up to 1.5 to 2 meters are sufficient for almost all finish work and handicrafts.
There are enough laths for manual circular saws on sale and they cost inexpensively, but there is no universal one. The construction principle of a brand-name guide rail is illustrated in Fig.Base plate (shoe) of the saw is made with a longitudinal groove, and the guide bar is stamped with the corresponding groove in the guide bar. The lawn mower is an indispensable tool for lawns and their own house.).
Using a manual circular saw with a guide rail
It’s convenient to work: you only need to press the tool from above, and it won’t go sideways or ask for a skew. And it is convenient during the competition too: we make our saws in such a way that they do not sit on the guides of “partners”.
Uncomfortable for craftsmen. you can’t find a cheaper guide bar. And circular saw with guide groove costs disproportionately expensive compared to the same one, but with smooth shoe. Amateurs do the opposite: a rail with a groove of laminated plywood, and a pair of bosses are attached to the shoe (pos. 2b in the big picture. at the beginning). But for this, first of all, you need wood router table, which you have to make (not easy) or buy (at a high price). Secondly, the already small depth of cut is reduced by 16-20 mm. Thirdly, if the tool is still under warranty, drilling holes in the shoe burns out the warranty. Fourth, if the saw is a rental, nothing can be refined in it.
There is another way, but the tool will need to be held in 3 planes during the work: pressed, from moving sideways and from rotation. The plywood base of the guide can then be thinner, 6-8 mm. The actual guide will be a flat rail (or a piece of steel angle, etc) fixed to it.п.), see (Fig.1), see (Fig.2), see (Fig.3). trace. fig.:
How to make a guide for a hand circular saw
“Adjustment” of the device is reduced to the fact that the circular saw simply cut off the excess from the base. This guide is fastened to the board / sheet material with screw clamps, as well as branded. When working on the workbench under the base are put spacers slightly thicker than that of the material; depth of cut from this sootv. is reduced.
Table for manual circular saw
There are many designs of homemade sawing tables for manual circular saws, but most of them are the fruit of creative search and/or self-expression. However, quite workable. However, the best options for those who need not make and show, and work on it, can be seen clearly enough.
This is the tilting saw table for the handheld circular saw (left in fig.). Tabletop. 12 mm laminated plywood; 400 mm high side boards. furniture grade laminated chipboard 16-24 mm. It is undesirable to make composite planks into a chest of drawers, because you will not get the needed rigidity of the table. tabletop overhangs 30-60 mm.
Construction of sawing table for handheld circular saw
The table top construction of the circular saw table is shown in the picture on the right. Carve 6-10 mm wide slots for saw blade exit (one slots are possible). No particular precision is required, i.e.к. stop (see. below) set for sawing along saw blade. The table top can be resized as desired (up to approx. 900×1200 mm of 16 mm plywood). Clamping in working position (node C in fig.). by screws M8 with wing-nuts. The rotation unit (pos. B). A piece of pipe (possibly plastic). Its attachment to the tabletop. this can be done with countersunk screws through the knockouts.
Instead of hinges. L-shaped pieces of rod D8; a little play in the tube on the quality of sawing does not affect the quality of the. Each “hinge” is additionally bent in the vertical plane at an angle of 30-45 degrees. The long “G” sticks are threaded and fastened in the cylinder by pairs of nuts with split washers. The mounting holes in the tsargah are best marked in place by inserting the “hinges” into the tube and laying the table top on the base.
To make a solid sliding stop for the workpiece, as at pos. 3b in the large fig. at the beginning, not necessarily. Its (stop) is better to make from a piece of steel angle of 40×40, cutting vertical flange as shown here in Fig. (rear view).
The design of sliding stop from steel angle for homemade circular table
It is fixed to the table top with screw clamps, and you have to level it parallel to the saw blade in any case; it is done with clevis square with marks in mm.
Manual circular saw clamped to the saw table
The circular saw is fastened to the table top with the disc upwards. If the tool is not under warranty and the loss of depth of cut is not essential, it is necessary to drill 4 holes D8 in the shoe of the saw and to fix it by through-headed countersunk screws. It is advisable to put 1-2 mm rubber between the shoe and the tabletop (e.g. for the workpiece)., from an auto-camera), the quality of the cut will improve noticeably due to the damping of tool vibrations. If it’s necessary to minimize losses in depth of cut, a through cut-out is made in the table top for the tool shoe, the saw is fixed to a steel sheet 3-6 mm thick and in the rectangular hole on the front (working) surface of the table top (see Pic. Fig. left). But the hole will have to be selected with a hand router on wood, chisel exactly flush will not work.
If the tool is a warranty or rental tool, depth-of-cut losses are inevitable, t.к. Do not bore through the saw shoe. For such a case, there is a known option of securing the saw in clamps (cf. mark. Fig.). Not suitable for regular work in large quantities, but you can make it quickly and for a day or two evenly sawn it will work.
Mounting a manual circular saw in the sawing table with minimal loss of depth of cut
Note: about the options for self-made sawing tables on the basis of manual circular saws see video; stationary in the workshop: