How to sharpen a chain for a chainsaw at home

Chainsaw chain sharpening rules

Since the inner contour of the tooth is quite close in shape to a circle, and the chain is made of a fairly soft metal, sharpening is done with a round file with a small diameter. To sharpen the chainsaw correctly, you need to accurately position the file relative to the tooth. The upper edge of the file should protrude about 1/5 of its diameter relative to the upper edge of the tooth. Before sharpening, find out the parameters of your chain, since the file diameter is selected depending on the chain pitch. Usually it is 4-5.5 mm.

Chain sharpening machines

If the chain has plowed the gravel or sandy soil quite hard, then it is unlikely that it will be possible to sharpen it with a file with a high quality. Also, sharpening with a file will not help with severe wear of the chain, because it has lost its shape. In such cases, it makes sense to use special machines. Such machines are divided into electric and manual.

An electric machine is the best way to sharpen chains. It is versatile and has many settings and benefits such as:

  • setting the chain at the desired angle;
  • drive of the disc exactly to the sharpened edge;
  • automatic clamping of the vise when the disc is lowered onto the chain.

However, its only drawback is the high price. Its purchase is advisable only for workshops and enterprises engaged in the extraction of wood.

Hand-held machines also give good sharpening results, and the price of some of them can be commensurate with the devices described above. We will describe the principle of their operation using the example of two models of hand-held machine tools manufactured by STIHL.

How to Sharpen a Chainsaw?

The design of these devices resembles a bow saw, which has a file instead of a blade. The model called “FG 1” mounts directly to the tire of the chainsaw, while the “FG 2” is stationary. These machines are good in that you can not only sharpen the chain, but also fit them to the size of the smallest tooth. Although the setting mechanism is quite heavy, it allows you to sharpen the chain with any tooth parameters and save this setting for subsequent teeth and chains. This allows you to make the teeth perfectly identical to each other.

Angles and parameters of links

Correct sharpening of a chainsaw chain is impossible without knowing the parts of the link and the angles at which they should be sharpened.

How to Sharpen a Chainsaw by hand with a file

  • Base
  • Tooth scapula
  • Depth gauge
  • End blade
  • Upper blade

Upper blade angle, rake angle and sharpening angle can be changed during sharpening. These angles greatly affect the cutting performance of the chain. It is advisable to observe the recommended values ​​of these angles.

Each cutting link in front of the tooth blade has a depth stop. The difference in height between the leading edge of the back of a tooth and the highest point of the depth gauge is called the depth gauge distance. This distance determines the depth to which the upper blade will cut into the wood and, as a result, productivity. This distance is set depending on the type of execution and the pitch of the chain. Its average value is 0.6 mm and can vary in both directions by 0.2 mm. Higher values ​​of this parameter will result in a greater tendency to kickback, too much grip and vibration of the chainsaw. And its low values ​​will lead to a loss in performance.

With each subsequent sharpening of the chainsaw, due to a decrease in the upper edge of the tooth, the height of the cut chips decreases, therefore, after every 5-10 sharpenings, the depth gauge needs to be sawed.

Main corners of chain links:

  • The depth to which the top blade cuts into the wood is controlled by its clearance angle. It is formed from the back of the tooth falling back at an angle.
  • The back angle of the end blade is formed from a backward tapering tooth blade. Its purpose is lateral cutting of shavings.
  • The rake angle is formed from the edge of the end blade relative to the sliding surface of the cutting link. For different chains, this angle can vary from 60 to 85 degrees.
  • The clearance angle determines the amount of backward tilt of the upper blade and is measured from the sliding surface of the cutting link. And different circuits can have values ​​from 50 to 60 degrees. The main blade of any chain link is the top, and the rear corner of the top blade is the most important angle. This angle is quite difficult to measure, but if other prescribed values ​​are observed, it is formed correctly.
  • The sharpening angle or entering angle is the angle from the perpendicular to the guide bar to the upper cutting edge. It can be changed depending on the type of wood you are going to cut. A larger sharpening angle increases the cutting performance of soft, non-frozen wood, while a smaller value allows you to cut hard and frozen wood more smoothly and with less vibration. However, sharpening angles less than 25 degrees and more than 35 degrees are not recommended. As an exception, chains are produced for longitudinal sawing, the given angle of which is 10 degrees.
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Principle of operation and bluntness of chain links

The chain link tooth has a rather complex geometry. The top and side cutting edges are inclined relative to each other at a certain angle, which makes the sharpening operation difficult. Planing wood with a chain tooth is similar to the work of a planer, and the thickness of the cut layer is controlled by the thickness of the stopper.

With intensive work, the saw teeth quickly become dull. The need for sharpening may arise several times during the day. This problem is especially aggravated by the contact of the chain with the ground. It is enough to hook the ground with the tire once for a couple of seconds, and you need to stop work due to the fact that the saw stops going deep into the wood itself, and the chips become rather small.

The more often you sharpen dull teeth, the less material you have to remove when sharpening the chainsaw chain, and it will last longer. Determining when it’s time for sharpening is easy enough. The easiest way to do this is by listening to your sensations when cutting: a properly sharpened and sharp chain will be drawn into the notch even with a small pressure, and if you have to make an effort, then the teeth are dull. You can also understand that the chain can be sharpened by the size of the chips flying out of the cut. Long thick shavings can only be with a sharp chain, and small ones indicate that it is urgently time to sharpen the chain.

Chainsaw operation with a dull or defective chain is highly discouraged. This can result in fatigue in the arms and body and poor cutting results. It also entails a strong decrease in productivity, increased wear of all parts of the chainsaw and higher fuel consumption.

Chainsaw chain sharpeners

The most common set for sharpening a chain includes a round file on a special holder, a flat file to reduce the depth gauge, a template for the last operation and a hook for cleaning the chainsaw from sawdust.

The mowing lines on the round file holder allow the correct positioning of the tool in relation to the chain. The holder is placed on the tooth to be sharpened according to the orientation lines. It lies on the top edge and the depth gauge and the file is under the cutting edge.

The holder allows the file to fit to the tooth at the correct height. There are different tool holders for chains with different pitches. Choosing the correct holder and the correct file diameter will allow the file to protrude 1 / 5th of its diameter above the back of the tooth. We strongly recommend that you use only special files for sharpening chainsaw chains.

Before starting sharpening, it is advisable to fix the tire. When working, it is necessary to make 2-3 turning movements away from you, while firmly pressing the file to the edge of the tooth and not changing the position of the holder. Do not press too hard on the file; move it smoothly and steadily. The file must be rotated regularly to avoid clogging and one-sided wear. With this operation, all other teeth are also sharpened. For greater convenience, first sharpen all the teeth in one direction, and then the teeth in the other direction.

When sharpening teeth, try to keep the pressure and amount of motion the same for each tooth. This will ensure that the teeth have the same length. Otherwise, the chain will run unevenly and may crack. Difference in tooth sizes can be eliminated by filing all teeth to the shortest length.

After 5-10 sharpening of the teeth, the depth gauge must be grinded. For this, a template is used. It is placed so that the stopper protrudes from the slot, and this protruding tip is grinded with a flat file.

The design of the other set is different, but the principle of its operation is not much different from that described above. It uses all the same round and flat files, and a universal special template allows you to properly sharpen the cutting tooth and the depth gauge. When sharpening a cutting tooth, the chain must fall into its slots. The file is positioned on the template and guided under the cutting edge, resting on the guide rollers. The file should move along the side edges of the template.

Before you grind the height stop, think about what kind of wood you will be sawing in the near future. For soft woods, the stopper is inserted into the slot labeled “Soft”, and for hard woods, it is inserted into the slot labeled “Hard”. Sewing the height limiter, as with the first device, should be done with several smooth movements of a flat file.

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain at home

At first glance, sharpening chainsaw chains with your own hands is a rather difficult and long task, but with special sharpening devices, this process will not be more difficult than sharpening other cutting tools. In this article, we will tell you about how to sharpen a chainsaw chain.

Chain design

The saw chain consists of the following elements:

In order for the chain to saw well, it is necessary to sharpen each tooth on the left and right sides. However, in order not to spoil the sharpening, it is important to know what shape our teeth on the chain are. There are two common forms of saw teeth:

  • Chipper. This is the more common tooth shape and is found in almost all chains. Here the profile is somewhat rounded, so it is much easier to sharpen it with a round file. In practice, however, the chipper dulls a little faster than the chisel.
  • Chisel. The cutter profile in this case looks like a seven. Such a cutter has a rather small contact area when it comes into contact with wood, so it encounters less resistance. For this reason, in one cut, it makes a greater depth of cut, which means that the speed of cutting a log will be higher (in comparison with a chipper). But sharpening it without damaging the edge is much more difficult.
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Saw chain sharpening methods

There are three ways to sharpen your saw chain effectively:

  • File.
  • angle grinder.
  • Sharpening machine.

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands: 3 proven methods

The quality of sawing wood with a chainsaw largely depends on the sharpness of the chain. How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands at home? We will tell you about three good ways.

The speed and quality of sawing wood with a chain saw depends on the sharpness of the chain. It needs to be sharpened from time to time. How can this be done? We will tell you about three reliable ways in which you can sharpen a chain with your own hands. One of them allows you to sharpen the chain right in the field, while the other two require a special tool and electricity.

Method 1

We install the chainsaw on the table, and clamp the tire with a vice so that it does not move during operation. We set low revolutions on the angle grinder (if there is only smooth adjustment, then slightly press the start button). We direct the disc at an angle of 30 ° relative to the plane of the tooth and tilt it slightly (as shown in the photo). Press on the tooth with light, soft movements.

With this method, the main thing is not to overheat the tooth and not to grind off too much metal. Ditching teeth, sharpening in this way, is much easier than with a hand file, but the sharpening speed increases significantly.

Sharpening the chain with an angle grinder

If you have an angle grinder, then you can sharpen your chainsaw chain much faster. It is best to use a small, 125-disc angle grinder. Sharpening is done at low speeds. There are two ways to sharpen an angle grinder.

Method 2

In this case, it is the angle grinder that needs to be fixed immovably. Can be clamped in a vise or screwed to a workbench with a bracket. Sharpening is done as on a conventional grinding wheel. We hold the chain with our hands and turn it so that the tooth sharpens at an angle of 30 °. With this method, hands are less tired, since you need to hold the chain, and not the angle grinder. However, the chance to get injured increases significantly. We recommend using this method infrequently or not at all, since safety is still more important than speed or quality of sharpening.

Sharpening the chain with a file

This type of sharpening can be used directly in the field. It requires a round file, a holder for it (clamp) and a vise for clamping the tire.

To sharpen with a file, you need to perform the following manipulations:

  • Clamp the tire in a vice. If you are in landing and did not take a vise with you, then you can clamp the tire by resting it on the log.
  • Place the clip with the file on the chain so that it creates an angle of 30 °.
  • With light movements forward (away from yourself), we sharpen the tooth. With a new file, it is enough to make 5. 7 movements. If the file has already been used several times, then more movements will be required.
  • After the tooth has been sharpened, remove the file with the clip and scroll the chain to the next tooth. After passing all the right teeth, turn the saw (or change the position of the file) and sharpen the left teeth.

Some file holders have a filed template on which the turning angle is already marked. So you do not have to “figure out” this angle. But from experience we will say that you need to practice well until it turns out to sharpen the chain perfectly smoothly with a file.

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The recommendations below are of course also suitable for electric chain saws.

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands?

Hello everyone! In this article I will show you how to sharpen a chainsaw chain at home.

For this case, you should use a special tool for sharpening the chainsaw chain. a round file of a suitable diameter or an electric machine.

Sharpening with a file is more correctly called editing. The chain is sharpened with a file using templates with or without rigid fixation. In the case of a rigid fixation, if the chain does not pass accidentally, for example, over nails, then you can do without sharpening at all on an electric machine. When using files without rigid fixation, after 8-10 edits, the chain should be sharpened on an electric machine, since there is a gradual knocking down of the cutting angles, even if the dressing was carried out by a person with the hardest hand.

Sharpening the chain on an electric machine immediately, as soon as it is slightly dull, is not recommended, since with such sharpening a fairly large part of the cutting tooth is “eaten”. in this case, the chain will last much less than it could. Sharpening on the machine also needs to be carried out if the chain has been walked, for example, on the same nails. In this case, it is unlikely that it will be possible to straighten the tooth with a file.

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How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with a file

In order to sharpen the chain on a chainsaw with a file, you will need it. in fact, the round file itself of the required diameter, a template for correctly determining the sharpening angle, as well as a template and a flat file for grinding the cutting depth gauge (guide tooth).

Sharpening set: round file with template, flat file, template for sawing depth gauge

Without removing the chain from the chainsaw, we apply a round file to the cutting tooth, observing the desired sharpening angle, and drag it along the tooth 2-3 times in the direction “away from you”. If you press the file against the tooth as it moves towards you, it will roll over and stop sharpening. Therefore, in order to sharpen correctly, we press it only when moving “away from ourselves”.

File sharpening without rigid fixation

We look at the correctness of the angle when sharpening with a non-fixed template by the risk applied to it. it should be parallel to the tire of the chainsaw. The sharpening angle should be 30 degrees for cross cutting, and 10 degrees for longitudinal cutting. It is more convenient to first sharpen all the teeth of the chain, looking in one direction, and then walk along the teeth, looking in the opposite direction.

When using a rigidly fixed guide template, it is fixed on the tire of the chainsaw and does not allow the file to go to the side. the quality of dressing in this case, as mentioned at the beginning, does not suffer from hand tremors. Next, the desired angle is set and the rest of the actions occur in the same way as with a non-fixed template.

Sharpening the chain with a rigid file

It is also worth noting that there are such devices for filing, when using which the chain will need to be removed from the chainsaw.

Editing the chain with a file and removing it from the chainsaw

2.Now we take a template and a flat file for grinding the guide tooth. To do this, place the specified template on top of the cutting tooth so that the guide tooth protrudes into the slot on the template. With a flat file we grind the part of the guide tooth sticking out of the template. This is done to maintain the required 0.65 mm height difference between the cutting and guide teeth. Usually, such a procedure should be carried out after already 4-6 edits, since with a file for one or three edits the cutting tooth does not grind down much in order to greatly decrease in height.

Sawing depth stop (guide tooth)

File diameters for chains with a specific pitch:

Chainsaw chain sharpening on the machine

When sharpening a chain for a chainsaw is carried out with an electric machine, it is removed from the chainsaw itself. Further, everything will depend on the type of machine. There are varieties that do not require human participation in the sharpening process at all, but such devices are too expensive. Usually, the process looks like this.

Sharpening the chain on an electric machine

The chain is installed in the existing slot on the machine bed with a guide tooth towards the operator. Further, the bed turns to the angle at which you need to sharpen. for this, risks must be applied on it. With a special stop, which is applied to the back of the cutting tooth, the tooth itself is adjusted under the working disk so that when it is lowered, it is “eaten” as little as possible from the tooth, but at the same time, so that its sharpening is completely done, without leaving pits and depressions.

Sharpening the chain on an electric machine in the process

It is advisable to find the most “eaten” tooth on the chain, set an emphasis under it, and sharpen all other teeth according to this setting. However, few people bother with this. Usually they align with the first tooth that comes across and sharpen all the rest on it. And if a tooth comes across, which such a setting does not provide complete sharpening, then it is aligned on it, and then the remaining links are sharpened according to the new setting. But, we repeat, it is correct to set up the machine exactly according to the smallest tooth on the chainsaw chain.

You should also set the maximum depth to which the scraper disc will be lowered. This is done with a knob, which is usually found on the back of the machine.

We sharpen the teeth, bringing each one under the working disk, while do not forget to tighten each sharpened link with a special side clamp so that it does not “walk”.

So they first pass along the teeth of the chain directed in one direction, and then for the other side, they again adjust the machine for the smallest tooth and sharpen the teeth on this side.

In order not to start sharpening the teeth in the second circle, you can mark the first sharpened tooth with a marker.

After such sharpening, you need to again go over the cutting depth limiters (guide teeth) with a flat file with an appropriate template to give the necessary height difference between the guide and cutting teeth on the link.

Thus, in order to properly sharpen the chain on the chainsaw, follow the instructions above and you will succeed.