How to Spin a Fishing Line on a Trimmer Coil
Fishing is full of all kinds of tricks that are revealed gradually, with gaining experience. It would seem that the simplest task is to reel a fishing line on a reel, and how many subtleties this seemingly uncomplicated process is fraught with! People who only comprehend the mysteries of fishing do not suspect how important this “trifle” can become. An improperly laid thread can fall, twist and form “beards”, which can make fishing not just uncomfortable, but also impossible in principle.
Today we will figure out how to correctly calculate the number of working thread or cord, find out what backing is and learn the wisdom of laying fishing line on reels of various kinds. We hope this publication will contribute to your advancement in fishing art. May fishing bring pleasure and enviable catches, and an improperly laid fishing line does not prevent this!
- Reel and fishing line selection
- Determination of fishing line length and backing
- Winding Profile
- Attaching fishing line to the spool
- Spinning line winding
- Features of inertial coils
- Multiplier snap
- Practical tips for experienced anglers
Reel and fishing line selection
The first task of the fisherman is to purchase high-quality fishing line. Modern spinningists and feeders rarely use traditional monofilament, due to its extensibility in water, which is especially noticeable over long distances. They prefer braided cords, which are less prone to deformation and exhibit similar strength with half the diameter. An exception is the use of monofilament in a tandem with a spinning lure, but for jig, braiding is definitely preferable.
Monofilament in combination with the classic inertial and inertialess reels it is mainly used for float and nod fishing rods, bottom tackles and girders. In this case, a different winding principle is used.
Determination of fishing line length and backing
On the reels produced by reputable manufacturers, their capacity is indicated, that is, how many meters of a thread of a certain thickness they are able to contain. Shimano’s classification is currently considered generally accepted. The lightest and most cumbersome is the model marked "1000" (this figure stems from the product of the diameter of the fishing line by its length in millimeters), which is used for ultralight spinning rods.
The most common is the option labeled "3000" for middle class rods, rightfully considered the most universal. Using simple calculations, you can understand that 100 meters of fishing line with a diameter of 0.3 mm will fit on a spool of such a model. However, such a thick fishing line is far from always necessary, especially when it comes to braiding. We take half the smaller value and get 200 meters of expensive high-quality cord, which with intensive use may not withstand the full season.
In order to save money (by the way, it is quite justified), many anglers reel on the reel exactly as much fishing line as necessary to achieve the maximum casting distance. However, for the efficiency and comfort of fishing it is necessary that the reel is almost completely filled. A distance of a couple of millimeters from the edge of the spool is still acceptable, but further problems begin.
If you do not want to incur excessive costs, we recommend using backing, that is, the auxiliary filling of the spool. Usually, inexpensive monofilament of small diameter is used as backing. It is better not to use a thick monofilka: it gives undesirable changes in height. If you wish, you can use last year’s cord as a basis, which has lost some of its valuable properties and is no longer suitable as the main fishing line. Another option – to wrap the spool with electrical tape – should be used only in extreme cases: it is not the most convenient way, and it is problematic to achieve perfect winding.
How to determine the necessary amount of backing and fishing line? Do not measure their ruler, after all! Ideally, it is better to use a special fishing line counter, mechanical or electronic – these devices are usually inexpensive and greatly facilitate the life of the fisherman. Advanced models are mounted directly on the rod and contribute to improving the accuracy of casting, which is especially important for feeder fishing. So definitely you will not have to regret about the money spent on the purchase of this convenient “lotion”.
The second version of winding fishing line is more cumbersome. You will need two reel spools of the same capacity. First we wrap a working cord on one of them (it is always much smaller), then backing, until the spool is full. Then we rewind to the second spool, and the backing is in the place intended for it – below, under the main cord.
With proper winding, the cord rests in accordance with the profile of the spool. The following types of profiles are distinguished:
- Cylindrical. Winding in the profile is distributed evenly throughout the entire volume of the spool. The result is the right cylinder.
- Straight cone. Near the front side, the winding is minimal in diameter, the profile gradually grows to the rear side.
- Reverse cone. The opposite situation: the base of the truncated cone (profile) is located at the front side, the top – at the rear.
- Chaotic. This option, in fact, is not structurally provided for: a chaotic profile significantly complicates casting. However, many Chinese models of the lower price segment sin just such a disadvantage due to poor build.
Most spinners and feeders practice winding fishing lines in the form of a cylinder or a reverse cone. Adjustment is carried out by installing washers of a certain diameter in the desired order. In a word, do not be lazy to read the instructions and work with your hands. However, these nuances are secondary, for lovers of an individual approach: brand coils are already sold with installed and perfectly adjusted washers.
Attaching fishing line to the spool
The first thing to do is fix the fishing line on the spool of the reel. It can be backing or the main cord itself – it makes no difference. Some anglers neglect the moment of consolidation, hoping that there is a lot of fishing line on the spool, all will not be unwound. As a result, on a long cast and a powerful bite, the entire cord is exhausted, and the happy and lively fish leaves, grabbing all the equipment as a keepsake. You lose an expensive cord and pleasure from fishing, but gain experience: just in case for an unpredictable case, you need to tie a fishing line!
If you do not know how to knit the most complicated knots, fit and ordinary self-locking option: it holds securely, it fits instantly. Fans of special fishing aesthetics can recommend more complex grinner, arbor, bloody knot.
Video: How to Spin a Fishing Line on a Trimmer Coil
It is reasonable to make one more manipulation with the fishing line: you can fix it on the spool using tape or adhesive tape in the direction of the cord – no matter how strong the knot is, without any additional fixation it will still slip. Just try to avoid sudden changes that could adversely affect the quality of the winding.
Spinning line winding
We proceed directly to the process. If you want to make it as comfortable and technically perfect as possible, you can purchase a special device that allows you to control both the direction of the fishing line and its tension. But you can do it with improvised means:
You need to wind the line evenly, with a certain controlled tension, in order to avoid "beards" and unwanted mounds. After the end of the process, you should fix the fishing line with a special clip on the reel – this will protect it from loosening and falling off the spool.
Features of inertial coils
Inertial reels are a classic of the fishing genre, used mainly in traditional bottom (non-feeder) or fly fishing or in tandem with float equipment. However, some spinning and feeders still prefer this old-school accessory. This is a matter of taste, although objectively inertia for spinning and feeder is much more convenient at all stages, from casting to fishing fish.
The constructive solution of inertial reels does not provide for a forest stacker, so the fisher’s first task is to control the tension and direction of the fishing line. The basic approach to winding remains the same as in the previous case: from a factory reel on a pencil through a ring to a reel. However, in this case, the angler clamps the line between the fingers and guides it for even distribution on the spool. Both cruciform and simpler spiral laying are acceptable.
In this case, you should categorically not reel the fishing line until the reel is full (do not confuse it with inertialess models!). In principle, almost a half-empty spool is acceptable – this has little effect on fishing. But filling the reel to the sides is fraught with subsidence and tangling of fishing line at the most crucial moments.
Multiplier coils are a natural evolution of the good old inertia. In fact, these are winches, characterized by increased strength and carrying capacity with the expected large mass and no less impressive price. It is mainly used in sea fishing, but sometimes it is also used in freshwater fishing, usually in tandem with a reinforced casting or trolling form. The multiplier is purposefully sharpened for the extraction of trophy specimens.
Winding fishing line on the animator has a number of features. Firstly, there is perforation in the spool. Its initial purpose is to facilitate the design, however, the available holes are good for attaching fishing line: it can simply be tied with a regular knot. There is no need to use backing: it is not necessary to fill the spool to the brim. The multiplier is already heavy, and incomplete winding will not affect its operational characteristics.
The rest of the principles can be borrowed from winding inertia, however, you need to consider that in this case it is better to control the tension of the cord. This can be done with fingers protected with a glove or piece of cloth, or you can use a stopper cut to half for this purpose (fishing line is passed through the cut).
In coils of this type there is no clip for fixing the cord, therefore, in the finale it is better to wrap it on the attachment foot to the rod.
Practical tips for experienced anglers
Following a good tradition, at the end of the article experienced fishermen give practical advice:
- Get reels with several interchangeable spools included. This will facilitate both the winding of the cord in tandem with backing, and the change of equipment directly during fishing.
- Give preference to products of famous brands and beware of counterfeiting. If you are offered a “branded” reel at a bargain price, it is unlikely that the original product will be inside.
- Do not use cotton or other sewing threads as a backing. They get wet and hold moisture for a long time, which negatively affects the safety of the fishing line.
- Keep your fishing line dry. After fishing, rewind the working part of the cord, carefully dry and rewind. Before the off-season, you should dry the entire fishing line, after which you need to reel it tightly onto the spool. Before use, it should be rewound with the desired tension.
- Buy a new cord for every season. An old fishing line can be used as a backing. But if finances do not allow such luxury, you can wind the old cord in the opposite direction, so that the least worn part acts as a worker.
We hope that our practical tips will help to increase the comfort of your fishing, increase catches and reasonable savings when purchasing equipment elements!
Many, having developed a factory line on a newly acquired trimmer, try to rewind a new one, but they cannot, because they do not know how to wind the line onto the reel spool (bobbin). It seems that there is an instruction, but it still doesn’t work out. Let’s try to deal with this issue in this article.
So, to rewind the fishing line, you need, for starters, to remove the reel from the trimmer – it will be more convenient. The removal method will depend on the type of trimmer.
Remove the coil from the trimmer
On small electric trimmers with the bottom position of the engine (when it is when working near the ground), the coil usually has two keys on its sides. We click on them and disconnect one half of the coil body from the second, which remains on the trimmer. Together with the first half, the inner part is taken out, on which the fishing line is directly wound. When parsing, be careful: there is a spring inside that can fly out and get lost.
On electric and petrol trimmers with a curved bar (it is still not possible to put a knife on such trimmers), you need to grab the coil body with one hand, and with the second hand you need to start turning the lamb on it. It is he who fastens the coil to the trimmer bar. Having unscrewed the lamb, carefully remove the entire coil, being careful not to lose the spring inside.
On electric and petrol trimmers with a straight rod and a gearbox at its end (in addition to fishing line, you can also install a knife on such trimmers) we look for a hole under the coil, insert a screwdriver into it, for example, rotate the coil quietly until the screwdriver penetrates even deeper, and the coil will lock. Now twist the entire coil clockwise (since the thread is left) and remove it from the trimmer. Then we disassemble the coil. It can be assembled using latches or twisted by a lamb. If the coil is on latches, then we press on the sides on the base of the latches so that they bend and release one half of the coil body from the other. We just twist the lamb. There may also be a third type of connection of two halves of such a coil: with it, you need to grab the lower part with one hand, and the upper one with the other, and start turning them in opposite directions. When disassembling such a coil, you must also make sure that the spring inside is not lost.
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Now, having removed and disassembled the coil, we proceed, in fact, to winding.
If your coil is designed to work with only one antennae, then everything is simple. You need to rewind 2-4 m of fishing line (depending on the size of the reel), find the hole fixing the line on the inside of the reel, insert one end of the line there and start reeling the line in the direction opposite to the direction of rotation of the reel on the trimmer. On the inside of the reel, they usually indicate an arrow, in which direction to wind the line. After winding up the fishing line, we leave a small piece of it unwound to expose it. We fix this piece in a special groove located on the inside of the reel and designed so that the fishing line does not unwind at the time of collection of the reel. If there is no such groove, then you will have to hold the fishing line with your finger to prevent it from unwinding during the further collection of the reel. Next, we take the outer part of the reel and thread the outer piece of fishing line into the existing hole, collect and put the reel back on the trimmer.
If the coil is designed to work with two antennae, then do the following. On the inside of the reel, we see how many grooves are available for winding fishing line. There may be one or two. If there is one groove, then both antennae are wound along this same groove. If there are two grooves, then each antennae is wound on its own groove. The reel with one groove should have a through hole into which the line is threaded. Unwind 2-4 m of fishing line, thread it through this hole so that on each side of the fishing line sticks out equally. And at the same time we wind both antennae of the fishing line in the same direction, opposite to the direction of rotation of the coil on the trimmer and coinciding with the direction indicated by the arrow on the inside of the coil. We leave a little fishing line unwound, we fix the ends in special grooves, and if they are not there, hold them with our fingers. Pass both ends into the holes on the outer coil body. We assemble the coil and attach it to the trimmer.
If there are two grooves, we fold the piece of fishing line 2-4 m long in half, insert the loop obtained at the bend point into the groove between the two grooves, and simultaneously wind both ends of the fishing line in each groove. Further actions are similar to the previous option.
There are still reels in which the line is threaded through a through hole on the inside. After that, the ends of the fishing line, without winding, are threaded completely through the holes on the outer casing of the reel, the reel is assembled and the button, which is usually pressed, is rotated so that the line can be released during operation as it wears out. Turn the button – the line itself is wound inside. At the same time, turning it in the “wrong” direction will not work, since it can only spin in one direction. If you get used to it, then you can wind the line onto such a reel without even taking it apart – you just need to combine the through hole of the inner drum with the holes on the outer case of the reel, and then thread the line into them.
That’s all for the matter. Good winding!