How To Untangle A Chainsaw Chain
How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands
Everyone knows that the saw chain, which is used in chainsaws, needs to be sharpened periodically, but not everyone knows how to do it correctly. Determining that the saw requires sharpening the chain is very simple, for this you need to inspect the sawdust, and if they consist of fine dust, then the tool needs to be sharpened. If sharpening is impossible, it is worth replacing it with a new one.
We will analyze the main ways with which you can, without problems, sharpen the chain on a chainsaw.
Sharpening with a file
The first thing you need in order to sharpen the chain, or tweak it a little, are special files.
For sharpening and straightening saw chains, two types of files are used. First, this is a round file with a diameter corresponding to the rounding diameter of the working edge of the saw tooth.
For sharpening saw chains of household tools, round files with a diameter of 4, 4.8 mm are used, due to the fact that they have a small tooth. For professional models, more powerful chains with a larger tooth are used, and accordingly files with a diameter of 5.2, 5.5 mm are needed.
In order to sharpen correctly, it is not enough to sharpen only the cutting edges of the tooth, you also need to adjust the cutting depth limiter. If this is not done, the chain will not cut into the material to be cut to the required depth, which will significantly reduce the speed of work and, just like in a situation with a blunt chain, can lead to overheating of the saw motor due to insufficient load on the motor. This work is done with a flat file.
How to sharpen a chain on a chainsaw with your own hands
A person who has a chainsaw in his household should know how to sharpen a chainsaw chain with his own hands. There are several ways:
- Sharpening with a file (the most common method of sharpening, because it allows you to sharpen the tool directly at the cutting site.)
- Sharpen using a special machine (this method is used in service centers, but can also be used on a personal farm)
- Sharpen using an angle grinder. To sharpen in this way, certain skills are required. Uncommon method, because K. Difficult enough to sharpen with an angle grinder correctly.
In this, you can familiarize yourself with the sharpening process, the most popular methods and tools used for this.
Electric grinding machines
For straightening a large number of chains, as a rule, in service centers or in manufacturing plants, electric sharpening machines are used. Depending on the manufacturer, the design of the machines may vary, but they have the same principle of operation.
The saw chain is installed in a special guide, which is mounted on the basis of the turntable and has a special retainer for holding the sharpened tooth. The latch can be moved horizontally. An electric emery is installed at an adjustable angle to the sharpened tooth, which is turned on by the operator by pressing the start button. The immersion depth of emery, as well as the angle at which the sharpening is performed, can be adjusted. The dive itself is performed by the operator. The chain is straightened with a special grinding wheel, which can be changed if necessary.
Description of the sharpening process with files
The first thing to start with straightening the saw chain on the saw is to set the tool on a flat surface or table. In forest conditions, a large diameter chock is well suited for this. Next, you need to inspect the saw chain for any defects, it can be cracks, completely broken off teeth. After inspection, you need to set the brake in working condition, thereby blocking its movement on the tire.
It is advisable to put a stand under the tire, as it you can use a log, a piece of a branch of a suitable diameter, or the manufacturers of sharpening tools have special clamps to hold the bar in the process of sharpening the chain.
The chain is sharpened by moving the file from the inside of the tooth to the outside. In this case, the file must be parallel to the special mark on the chain. This mark is applied by the chain manufacturer to indicate the standard sharpening angle.
The tooth to be sharpened should be located approximately in the middle of the tire, this is necessary for the convenience of work, during the sharpening process, you need to move the chain along the tire, remembering to set the brake to the working position each time.
Ideally, manufacturers advise to make the same number of file movements for each tooth, but in practice this is not always possible, because The teeth have different degrees of damage to the working edge.
To facilitate sharpening the saw chain with a file, special holders can be used, with corner markings applied to them. The markings are made not only for the standard cross cut, but also for the longitudinal.
Tool holders are also handy if you don’t have sufficient sharpening experience. Experienced sharpeners do not use holders for sharpening, but can only use special devices that support the file.
Another sharpening device is a hand-held saw chain straightener. It uses a regular file as a sharpening tool, which can be replaced independently. The machine is mounted directly on the tire, it also has the ability to adjust the angle of sharpening of the tooth and a special stop that holds the sharpened tooth.
Manual sharpening machine, perfect for beginners. Along with electric models of sharpening machines, manual has its undeniable plus in the form of a low price. Depending on the manufacturer of the hand-held machine, their appearance may differ, but the principle of operation is the same for all.
The depth of cut is adjusted with a flat file, so that there is a difference between the upper cutting edge of the tooth and the height stop.
As you can see from the figure, the depth gauge is grinded in such a way as to bring the gap indicator to the factory value. Below is a table showing the main values of the angles, as well as clearances for the most common types of chains.
As a rule, the size of the gap is corrected using a special die. It is installed on the chain during sharpening, after which the depth gauge is grinded.
Features of the clutch drum in chainsaws
The drum located in the clutch base of the mechanism is an integral part of the chain drive system. This detail resembles a star in its own form, due to which it got its name. Depending on the type of chainsaw, the part can be professional or household. Because the professional saw is used more often than the household one, then the leading sprocket asks for a constant change. If we talk about household tools, then everything here depends on the amount of work performed and the load that is on the circuit of the device.
Most often, the sprocket, crown and saw bearing need to be replaced.
A little about the rules for operating the node
Regardless of the manufacturer’s brand (Stihl, Husqvarna, Partner, Patriot, Makita), chainsaws are divided into household, semi-professional and professional. The difference, however, is not the quality of the assembly or the manufacture of the components, but the class of tasks performed, the performance and the continuous power of the drive. This predetermines the choice of the material of the leading sprocket for the chainsaw, its design and the design of the saw chain.
The performance of the tool will depend on how the chain-sprocket pair is operated. In most cases, users use one of two options:
- The chain is operated until the teeth are completely worn out, and then both the saw blade and the sprocket are replaced at the same time;
- Periodic replacement of chains with different pitch, and each will require its own drive sprocket.
The choice of option is often determined by the owner’s attitude to his instrument. If it doesn’t matter what to cut (wood or steel staples stuck in it, screws, etc.), then you can stop at the first option. The chain, however, will have to be adjusted periodically, thereby reducing the performance of the chainsaw.
It is strongly not recommended to leave the old chain with a new sprocket and vice versa. When the saw blade is worn out, the probability that the tooth pitch will not match is almost one hundred percent. Therefore, at the initial moment of starting, both components of the chain drive will be subjected to significant dynamic loads. As a result, either the chain will prematurely stretch, "adjusting" to the sprocket, or upon impact, one of the teeth on the drive sprocket will burst.
In addition, it is worth focusing on the operation of the bearing assembly of the drive sprocket shaft. When the saw is operating at working speed, only the crankshaft rotates. But all chainsaws operate periodically and at idle speed when the bearing rotates. With a lack of lubrication, the wear of the seat occurs, and. as a result. additional beating of the teeth of the still fully functional chain transmission.
From this it follows that when replacing the chain and the drive sprocket for a chainsaw, it is a good idea to replace the bearing at the same time.
Self-replacement of the clutch drum with a chain sprocket
If you decide to change the chain sprocket yourself, then consider the type of drum when buying spare parts. Usually, together with the replacement of the drum and chain, the bearings are also replaced. In order not to be mistaken, buy a special repair kit that best suits your model. Usually, a complete set for a chainsaw and a saw consists of a drive sprocket and a bearing. To change the drive gear, the following tools must be prepared:
- Auxiliary key;
- A hammer;
- Bearing grease;
- Mechanism piston stopper;
- Centrifugal puller.
Design features of the leading sprockets
Any manufacturer indicates the pitch of the teeth in the instruction manual. Considering that a driven sprocket is also installed on the saw bar (designed to create the necessary tension), the step there and there should be the same.
Chainsaw drive sprockets can be solid and prefabricated. In the first case, the sprocket includes a hub onto which a ring gear is pressed. This is how the parts in Champion chainsaws are arranged. The product should be removed completely when replacing, since at home it is almost impossible to comply with the tightness value set at the manufacturing enterprise. And buying a crown separately is also a problem.
In chainsaws from Stihl or Husqvarna, the replaceable crown is located directly on the drum shaft, and therefore its replacement is not difficult.
Tooth wear is established by the following criteria:
- There are clearly visible radii at the transition from tooth to cavity.
- Tooth width uneven in height.
- Chipped metal at the top of the tooth.
- On the inner surface of the bore in the hub, there are numerous seizures and risks (due to poor lubrication).
- A groove from the saw bar is visible on the sprocket (the chain must also be changed).
- The chain seizes at the initial moment of start.
If at least one of the above factors is present, the drive sprocket must be replaced.
Before starting work (especially if the chainsaw has worked relatively little), it is worth checking the fastening of the saw bar. The tensioning screw has come off or the fastening nuts have been unscrewed. the guide is already misaligned with the longitudinal mowing line of the saw blade. It begins to contact not with the center, but with the periphery of the drive sprocket teeth, provoking their intensive wear. After tightening the indicated elements, the operation of the chainsaw is checked: if the backlash is not eliminated, then the asterisk will have to be changed.
What to do if the chain sags
If the chain slack, there is a risk of injury to the operator. the saw blade could break or simply fly off the guide sprockets. Of course, modern chainsaws have safety and emergency stop systems, but these systems do not always work correctly.
It is important not to install a chain with defective or damaged saw links on a chainsaw, in addition to the danger of breaking at any time, such a chain will sharpen the guide grooves of the bar, which will lead to its distortion, uneven cut and failure of the guide bar.
Due to which the chain can sag during even short-term operation?
- There may be problems with the guide bar. Sometimes, due to an oversight of the operator or due to severe wear of the threads of the fixing bolts in the place where the guide bar is attached, vibration may occur, which causes the chain to loosen. Check the condition of the fixing bolts and, if necessary, replace them with new ones. When the bolts are tightened enough, these problems do not arise.
- With enough careful handling of the chainsaw, over time, any chain can wear out. Trying to repair it or collect one from several is a useless exercise. If the chain headset has stretched due to natural causes, then it is best to get a new one.
- The asterisk is skewed. Sagging can occur due to the misalignment of the sprocket teeth. In this case, it would be best to contact a service center to repair and adjust the position of the guide sprocket. It is quite difficult to fix the drive sprocket in the correct position, because you will have to dismantle many small parts, remove the guide rail, and then assemble everything in the reverse order.
Procedure for unscrewing and replacing the sprocket
- Remove the cover, saw headset, remove the bar and chain.
- Remove air filter.
- Unscrew the spark plug and insert the piston stopper in its place. It will fix the position of the piston.
- Install the clutch remover and unscrew the clutch.
- Access to the sprocket is free and now it must be unscrewed and removed.
- Carry out a visual inspection of the drum and, if necessary, replace the drum and crown with new ones. If other parts show signs of obvious wear, then they must be replaced.
- If the parts are in order and do not require replacement, then the saw is assembled in the reverse order.
Possible ways and methods of sharpening the chain
We work with a file
The best solution is simple gadgets for sharpening work. This set includes a round and flat file, special holders, a gauge, a hook for removing chips, etc. Structurally, the "adaptations" may differ, but the functionality has a common logic.
The diameter of the round file is directly related to the chain size:
- – Chains with ø 1.3. require a file of ø 4 mm (used much more often);
- – Chains with ø 1.6. require a file ø 5.2 mm;
- – To sharpen the depth gauge, use a flat file.
- Having previously "turned on" the chain brake, firmly grip the tire of the chainsaw in a vice (a firmly clamped saw is the key to successful sharpening)
- Position the template so that the arrow points towards the nose of the tire. Be sure to mark (with chalk) the tooth from which you started sharpening, otherwise you can go along the second circle;
- Sharpen in the direction of the arrows. Remember, there is a special factory cut on each tooth in the chain. It indicates the maximum sharpening angle.
- In addition to the cutting tooth, there are stops on each link. Their sharpening is carried out as needed. This is necessary when, as a result of sharpening, the height of the tooth decreases, and problems arise in the operation of the chainsaw. As a rule, the limiter is sharpened after 2-3 sharpening of the teeth;
"If you don’t have the skills to sharpen, it’s better to start with inexpensive chains.".
- The file should not go beyond the upper part of the cutting edge by more than 1/5 of the working part of the file. The pressure is carried out with the same effort;
- The movement of the grinding tool is performed in one direction "away from you", and the number of movements for each tooth should be equal;
- To sharpen a vertical plane, the position of the file must be at right angles;
- For sharpening a horizontal plane, file position, at an angle of 20-30 °
- If there are teeth of different heights, the reference is the smallest.
Advantages: Ability to "charge the saw" in the field. At the same time it’s cheap.
Chainsaw teeth have a specific geometry. You need to understand and know what part of them should be sharpened. In general, the "logic" of cutting wood resembles a plane.
The cutting surface has two edges. One side, the other slightly beveled. The cutting depth limiter adjusts the thickness of the chips. Let’s take a closer look. The elements of the cutting-working link are arranged as follows:
- Base with axle holes;
- Tooth scapula;
- Cutting depth limiter;
- End face of the blade (placement. vertically);
- Top edge of the blade (placement. horizontal);
Sharpened edge Dull After touching the ground
Do not over-grind or change the location of the links. The normal operation of the instrument depends on the identity of their location. Otherwise, increased stress on the chassis, tire and engine is likely. The cut can be crooked. There is also a small chance of breaking the circuit.
We sharpen the chainsaw chain with our own hands. All possible and available ways
“The lumberjack working with a blunt ax was advised:. Sharpen the ax.
He replied:. There is no time. The forest must be cut down. "
Greetings to all readers!
Today I decided to tell you about the tool, without which, it seems to me, today it is simply impossible. A good tool should work well, and this largely depends on its owner.
Cleaning the autumn garden, preparing firewood for winter, building a bathhouse, repairing a wooden fence will require not only time and desire, but also the readiness of the "cutting" tool. If it is a chainsaw, then it must be properly sharpened.
Of course, there are paid specialists, and you, for example, have extra money. But we know that such a procedure is performed periodically and therefore a natural question arises: how to sharpen a chainsaw chain at home? I’ll tell you about that. Go!
In this article, you will learn:
Electric grinding machines
They are equipped with special adjustment functions to help you position the chain at a certain angle. At the same time, it is possible to accurately and accurately bring the disc to the chain teeth. There are machines equipped with automatic vices. They are switched on when the disc approaches the sharpened edge. Convenience and functionality are certainly high. You can find models at "lifting" prices.
The design of such a machine is similar to a bow saw. Only where the saw blade is located is the round file. With such a machine, you can sharpen and straighten the teeth, adjusting the proportionality of the upper edges to the smallest (control) size. The mechanism allows you to accurately set the parameters. After adjusting the "control" tooth, sharpening is carried out in two or three movements. And then the transition. to the next tooth.
When it is necessary to grind off the stopper, we change the round file to a flat file.
Advantages of the method: Allows you to sharpen teeth, including those that have lost their original shape, with a high quality, convenient and without large physical costs.
Disadvantages: The price of the tool and the distance from the possible site of the saw operation.
What to choose for sharpening is up to you. This is due to how often you use your chainsaw. From the accuracy of handling it. From the quality of the purchased chain. And, of course, from the opportunity to spend a certain amount. The methods cannot be compared, because as the German proverb says. "apples should be compared with apples".