Is it possible to drill concrete with a crown for porcelain tile. Peculiarities

Is it possible to drill concrete drill over the tile

A huge role in the design of appearance and creating comfort is played by decoration. For these purposes, tiles are used for the bathroom and kitchen. After finishing the tiles of these rooms, quite a few are faced with the problem of how to drill tiles to fix on the wall a variety of holders, mirrors, hangers, cabinets and other interior items. And very often he obeys that the result is an unsightly crack. Why is this happening?

Before drilling the tile, it is necessary to make sure that the perch mode is disconnected on the ashor or drill (if there is a given function on it). After that, the tool must be installed at right angles relative to the surface, install small turns on it and begin the drilling process. Gradually, you can increase speed, drilling to the ground.

It is very important in the process to delete the forming dust. For this purpose, a vacuum cleaner is used, it must be installed in such a way that it does not interfere with the work, but at the same time quickly removes the formed dust. If possible, it is desirable to resort to someone’s help.

As soon as the base of the tile is reached, the drill must be changed to the one that is most suitable for the type of base (wood, concrete) and drill the hole to the desired depth. But at the same time it must be remembered that the drill should not be more diameter than that, which was drilled tiles, otherwise you can irrevocably ruin the tile.

In the event that it is necessary to drill the untouched tile, before the start of work, you need to make sure that it is located on a flat surface. A wooden or concrete base should be placed under it. It is strictly forbidden to drill tiles on a metal surface, since because of this you can easily disable a cutter.

We select the tool

It is necessary to drill the tiles very carefully. it does not have such viscosity as metal, and does not have ligaments between the grains that are easily broken when working on concrete. Ceramic tiles are monolithic in structure, and any point load can lead to its cracking. Therefore, the tool should be selected very carefully.

• The perorator in shock mode disappears immediately, but when switching to the “drill”, it is quite suitable for drilling a tile. In addition, for further preparation of the nest for fasteners, it is he who will need it, so all the work can be performed in one tool.
• Drill. a good option with the correct selection of a drill. However, to work on a tile on the regulator, you need to set low speeds. not higher than 800 rpm. At the same time, the tool itself should be powerful enough so that even such a loss of torque does not prevent the hole in solid tiles.
• Electric screwdriver (battery or working from the network) can be used not only for its intended purpose, but also to drill a tile. It is easier to control the speed of speed, so the chance to split the tile is minimal.
• Hand engraver. not every home master has this tool, but if it is, it will be easier to make square or curly holes in tiled cladding.

Description of the tool

The diamond crown looks quite typical and is attached to a special tail of metal. Outwardly the design resembles a drill with a small bowl. Its size corresponds to the resulting hole.

On the extreme part of the cutting edge, diamond crystals are fixed using vacuum-diplomatic welding. The larger their number, the easier it is to drill. There is also a galvanic application method, which also gives a dense layer of diamond “grains”. Such a tool can be used to work with solid porcelain tiles, but there is a risk that the nozzle cannot cope with the load with prolonged use and lose part of the working layer.

Such crowns do not need a gear, their service life is several times longer than the rest of the drills. They are indispensable for frequent work, unpretentious in care, they are easy to clean, changed and installed, but it is necessary to cool it during use.

Types of nozzles

Diamond crowns may differ among themselves. The main criteria of differences:

• Wall thickness. Thin walls give an accurate result, the hole will be just the way you wanted. True, because of this, the possible life of the drill is reduced.
• The diameter can vary from 19 to 100 mm. A wide range makes it possible to make a hole of the desired size in one time.
• Long. The depth of the hole depends on the length of the drill, which must be made in a porcelain stove.
• The size of diamond segments and the distance between them affect the ease of drilling and the quality of the final hole.
• Diamond concentration in conjunction. The general productivity of the crown depends on this factor. With 100% of the concentration of diamonds, ¼ of the total diamond spray.
• The number and configuration of holes for cooling, or their absence.

Some crowns are equipped with a central drill. In the absence of such an element, fixers for a drill are used. holders. or stationary machine. If there is a drill, then no additional devices for work are required.

Types of crowns for drilling

Crowns for drilling differ in the scatter of diameter values. He determines their specific purpose in each area of ​​application.

• 14-28 mm-differ in steps in 2 mm. This is 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26 and 28 mm. Rare exceptions include values, for example, 25 mm. Diamond crowns with small value. up to 28 mm. are used to drill holes for chemical anchors. The latter are used for the construction of overpasses, carrying supports of large.sized machines and other heavy structures. Chemical anchor mounts suggest the presence of a drilling crown by at least 4 mm than the stiletto. With non.compliance with this requirement, the chemical anchor does not provide a proper margin of safety.
• 32-182 mm. The step is 1 cm, but the number ends with the number 2. Exception. Size 36, 47, 57, 67, 77 and 127 mm. The size (diameter) of the working part of such a drill has a “round” value, for example, 30, 40, 50 mm. In this case, “extra” 2 mm. one on each side. an increase in 1 mm. Without one.millimeter spraying, which is the diamond layer, the crown would not perform its functions. For example, 110 mm in fact are 112th-taking into account a high-strength cutting layer.
• Cows of high diameter-20-100 cm-do not have a single pattern in the scatter of values. A step of diameter can be equal to both 25 and 30 mm. Typical dimensions. 200, 225, 250, 270, 300 millimeters. Larger. 500, 600, 700 mm and further. In special cases, individual dimensions are used, for example, 690 mm.

In addition to diamonds, carbide (entirely) crowns are used. This allows you to convert the peorator into a spinning chipper mode, which makes it possible to break the layer of concrete, under which it lies a more durable layer with reinforcement. The nozzle of such a crown with increased loads quickly (prematurely) wear out.

Crings, often failing at the most inopportune moment, require the most durable alloys in their composition.

For example, the working part has a toothed look, and the SDS shank is suitable for most models of domestic and Japanese peorators used in everyday life. Such a solution is the option to quickly break through the concrete partition in the apartment under a small diameter, but these products do not differ in an increased service resource. Due to the overstated impact strength, the quality of drilling significantly suffers.

Ways of drilling

Depending on the characteristics of the wall or floor, dry or wet cutting of the material from which the partition is made is used. There are rules and recommendations that make it possible to get a long time resource from the used instrument (and the total chain depth of drilled holes).

Dry

Drilling (punching) “on dry” is used in places where it is impossible to organize a temporary channel for supplying water. The crown should be located very accurately at the place of drilling: the slightest displacement during its operation will bring the tool unusable. The shank and clamping cartridge must be lubricated. The lubricant will exclude excessive shock friction leading to the wear of the shank.

Dry drilling is used at objects, in rooms where the equipment is extremely sensitive to moisture, and it cannot be turned off and moved, since the production process is interrupted.

Wet

The essence of this method is as follows: a constant flow of water is supplied to the working area to cool the crowned drill heating from friction. Water is pumped under pressure in one or more earthly atmosphere-but so that the spray from excessively overstated pressure does not interfere with the work of the master, do not fall on the peorator, which is why the worker would receive a shock. Stopping water supply will lead to rapid evaporation, boiling in the working area of ​​the liquid. the crown will overheat and will fail.

In brick and concrete, as in oil

For people living in an apartment (unlike owners of a private house), drilling brick and concrete. the procedure is common, but not everyone knows and understand how the drilling of concrete differs from the drilling of brick. So we’ll try to figure out how to drill brick, and what is concrete, still there are differences and they are decent.

So, very often inexperienced masters (and most often lonely women) confuse a shock drill and a peorator. For them, these 2 tools are the same. So they try to drill a concrete overlap with a regular 500 watt drill, although this operation is obviously doomed to failure. Concrete is very dense, brick is much softer concrete. You can talk a lot about the difference between the orator and shock drill, so it is better to read my articles: how to choose a peorator for home. Choosing a home drill.

After reading them, you will immediately understand the difference between the drill and the pedorator, moreover, there are useful advice on buying, what to pay attention to. Definitely useful articles for beginners.

In this article, we will quickly consider the difference. The whole difference between the shock drill and the pedorator is that the pen of the impact is ten times greater and does not depend on the force of pressing the instrument during drilling. The stab is electric, the shock drill is mechanical and depends on how much you click on the drill. However, even click with all your strength. all the same, the impact power will be low. Based on this, it turns out that the brick can be drilled with a shock drill, but concrete is better as a peorator.

Both options are suitable, and the peorator and the shock drill will cope. For a pedorator, you will need to buy a drill, for a drill. a winning drill. I also note that the brick in the light is drilled without impact by an ordinary drill. Although most drills are now going with a blow. Many do not know which drills are suitable for what dowels diameters. I’ll tell you what dowel, such a drill. That is, if the dowel is 6 mm, then take the drill with a diameter of 6 mm. The exception is cases when a wall of “sorcerers”-wooden planks stuffed with cross, such walls are still found in old communal services. For such walls, the drill must be taken a little less than the dowel.

Of course, if you need to drill a couple of holes in concrete (for dowels to hang the curtain into the room), then the shock drill can help, but you should immediately warn that you will drill for a long time and spend more than one thing)) and of course your own strength will also spend the uninhabited. To do this, you need a regular winning drill, depending on the diameter and length. When drilling a shock drill, put on not very strongly, but do not hold the drill in the hole for too long, let’s cool it, otherwise it may even melt (there was one such case). The temperature when drilling concrete is very high.

The peorator is the best tool for drilling concrete, insert a drill and drill without experiencing any problems. One not very expensive drill (diameter 6 mm,) is enough for about 40-50 holes. Take at least the inexpensive and pretty good Boers of the company Enkor.

Sometimes you need to drill large holes in the wall. Than to do it? For a pedorator, you can buy a crown on concrete, drill it without a blow. The dimensional row is wide, the crowns are of different sizes, starting from 30 mm and ending with very large 120 mm. The most common size is 68 mm, for drilling holes under the outlet. Do not forget to switch the peorator into drilling mode without impact, otherwise your crown will quickly grunt.

For a drill on sale, you can find special tungsten crowns carbide. I only note that such crowns can be drilled not only with brick and concrete, but also tiles, paving stones, porcelain tiles. Such a universal thing and most importantly, the holes made using such a crown are very neat and even.

In the video below. they work with the Kron “Practice” in brick. You can also work on concrete.

We drill a concrete wall crown

It is necessary to work extremely carefully, for starters, we very quietly drill the first 5 mm walls at extremely low speeds, this is necessary so that we will not go aside in the future process, and the hole is not a curve. Further, we continue to work, you should not compress the peorator much, because making the hole should occur exclusively due to the rotational movements of the head. If there is a need to increase the initial diameter, then you can resort to simple manipulations with swaying, this will slightly expand the hole. If you keep the peorator in the direct position, then there is a chance that the diameter will be a little already.

But do not be zealous, after a couple of minutes of active work it is worth taking out the crown, look at its condition and let cool with the tool with a nozzle. From increased load, the tail can just burst. Before you remove the peorator, do not stop its work completely, this will exclude the possibility of damage to the win.

Next, take a hammer, and a good chisel, then insert the chisel into the lower part of the rejection done, hit. It is necessary to drive a chisel by about 2 mm. This will help you extract everything that remains inside in the process of drilling, and was compressed in the hole. You need to work carefully so as not to accidentally expand the necessary diameter.

Thus, gradually increasing the pace, it is necessary to make the necessary hole in the concrete wall, but if you have a reinforcement in the wall, then the entire procedure should be carried out similarly to the described, but only on condition that the winning crown will need to be replaced with diamond. But the diamond should be constantly watered with water to simplify the work, but do not water the boat itself.

After the end of the work, we completely clean the holes from dust, and dirt. We collect the entire tool, and you can proceed to the installation of the necessary equipment in the wall.

What are the crowns on glass and tiles

Drilling holes of large diameter in stone is possible only when using a diamond crown. The range of materials where this crown can be used is quite wide. it is tiles, porcelain tiles, granite, brick and even concrete. Of course, most often she will be drilled with tiles, tiles or porcelain tiles, and there is no question of concrete (for this there is special carbide crowns in concrete). Of course, you can drill concrete with a diamond shutter, however, with such a tool, it will be enough for a short time, it is very wear out when you use it very much. Therefore, most often such diamond crowns are bought from our finishes involved in lining with porcelain tiles.

The first rule of drilling with a diamond crown is cooling. As you can see in the photo, there are special holes and cuts on the crown for cooling, because in order for the diamond to work for a long time, it must be cooled. This applies to any diamond tool. diamond cutting circles, crowns, etc. So, in order for the diamond layer to be cooled qualitatively, it is necessary to provide water supply. That is, it is recommended to drill this crown with the addition of water, wet cut.

Since the crown is sold without a central drill, it is highly recommended to drill the tile stationary, in the machine or at worst, if you use a corner grinder. use a stationary device for angular grind. Although it is possible to install a central drill, for this it is better to use a spear drill on the tile.

There are already holes for centering in the crown, it remains only to put another hole on the side and cut the small thread so that you can squeeze the centering with a screw.

This is as an option, although not many agree to finalize something there when you can find a crown with a center drill. On the other hand, such a crown with diamond spraying from Matrix has a very low cost compared to models of other companies where the price may vary several times. And this tool is very high quality, crowns endure for a long time if they drill stationary and with water supply. Even porcelain tiles are drilled like clockwork. So there is a reason to finalize a little and install a spear drill on glass and tiles as a centering drill. Read more about the best drills on porcelain tiles.

In addition to diamond crowns, drill porcelain tiles, tiles or brick can be a regular cup of carbide tungsten spraying. Cm. Photo below.

They differ from diamonds by the presence of central carbide drill, so that these cups can be used when working with an ordinary drill, no stationary machine is needed. The tungsten crumb also crashes perfectly into the stone, the addition of water is not necessary, the only condition is that you need to drill without a blow, and the speeds should not be high. Personally drilled holes with such cups in a brick. they just drill wonderful, the hole is even. So I recommend it.

The dimensional series of those and other crowns are wide, you can choose the optimal diameter for drilling a hole. The larger the diameter, the more expensive the tool costs. To navigate at prices:

32 mm in diameter. 150 51 mm. 220

Diamonds are still more expensive, and of course they are drilling, if you use stationary drilling with water. If there are no such conditions, then it remains only to buy tungsten crowns, they are with a central drill, and water is not required. Of course, diamond can be drilled with a drill, but without centering the drill will “walk” along the tile and it will be difficult to flash quite.

Which one to choose?

A variety of products with which you can drill porcelain tiles is not so great. This excludes the problems with the choice.

The following options are possible:

• Small holes. If you need to make a hole for a dowel in the wall, then it is better to use tubular or classic diamond drills. They are released with a small diameter, which allows you to form the necessary holes. Please note that the first type of tool is intended for dry drilling, while the operation of the drill should be accompanied by the supply of coolant.
• Holes of large diameter. Only diamond crowns will help you here. They can be drilled with porcelain tiles both on the floor and on the wall. A feature of such a tool is a large diameter of the crown, which allows you to get a hole for a socket or a water pipe.

Drilling can occur both in the presence of coolant and without it. It is only important here to precisely mark the tile. If you have no experience, then experts recommend using crowns with the middle of the middle.

It allows you to accurately set the location of the tool, and also minimizes the probability of gliding the crown during operation.

The choice of the type of drill depends not only on its size, but also on the service life. If you need to make a few holes, then you can give preference to diamond crusts or drill. You can work with their help relatively easily and quickly. When the quantity is important, you can not do without tubular models, but their use can significantly slow down the process, which is not always relevant at the construction site.

Review of manufacturers

The quality of almost any tool depends on the manufacturer and brand. Today on the market there are many modifications of drill for porcelain tiles, among which the products of such companies can be distinguished:

• Bosch. The company’s products are one of the highest quality in the world market. The manufacturer produces several types of drills, which do a great job of set tasks. Among all the variety, tubular models should be distinguished, which are distinguished by the ability to self.coolest. To do this, olive oil is introduced into the structure of the material, which when heated is released and cools the drill.
• “Monolith”. The products of the domestic company are highly of high quality. Products are obtained using a diffuse method, which provides high grip of metal and diamond crumbs. The use of this technology allows you to increase the resistance to destruction by several times. The diameter of the drill can reach 70 mm.
• Hawra. The company has been engaged in the production of drills for a very long time. Products are characterized by increased resistance and high quality. Drills are supplemented by independent cooling. The products of this brand are characterized by the optimal ratio of price and technical parameters.

A few more manufacturers can be found on the market, but it should be understood that the quality of their materials depends only on the scope of application.

When buying, pay attention to customer reviews, this will evaluate the technical parameters of the drill.

Drill on tiles and porcelain tiles. consider various types

We continue to disassemble the types of equipment for various instruments of the home master and today we will consider the drill on kemamic tiles and kg (read about the diamond disk according to porcelain tiles).

The laying of tiles in the present days has become very popular, since the surfaces lined with these materials look simply amazing and besides this, very durable. It is difficult to imagine a bathroom without tiles, agree.

Therefore, the home master always has the need to drill tiles and here the problem arises, it turns out that the lesson is not easy and, moreover, in terms of costly. And all because people use the wrong drills, therefore there are enough of them for a maximum of 5 holes. Let’s take a look at the types of drills for tiles and porcelain tiles.

Very effective when drilling tiles, suffer decently, with proper use they wear out for a very long time. If you need a hole up to 12 mm, you can’t find a better drill, we can safely recommend. For 7 years of sales, only positive reviews of satisfied customers, in tiles. like in oil. The only thing you need to pay attention to is to use directly by tiles and drill a drill at low speeds. Everything.

By the way, they are sold both for a drill (round shank), and for an electric screwdriver. the shank “under the bit”.

Use such drills if you need to make a hole for the dowel in the bathroom (to hang a heated towel rail on a wall of already lined with tiles).

With such drills, you can make up to 5 holes even in porcelain tiles, but in fact it is improper use of the drill, and therefore it will quickly dull. However, there are situations when not to live, you do not need to make a couple of holes in porcelain tiles, so you can use such drills. At least it turns out to save, because the normal drill on porcelain tile should be healthy (300-500 rubles), and the spear-shaped within 60-120 depending on the diameter.

Agree, for a “pair of holes” it is better to use a drill for 80 than for 500. The company “Enkor” has established itself well. This is from inexpensive, price-quality.

Ordinary carbide drilling drilling

If you need a small hole (up to 12mm) in porcelain tiles, then such a drill is the best possible. They differ from the usual concrete and brick in that the sharpening of the carbide plate is one.sided and the sharpening angle is sharp.

If you take an ordinary carrier-free drill for a shock drill, then there the attacence has 2-land sharpening and the angle of the stupid-sharpening for drilling with a blow. And porcelain tiles are drilled without impact, so the sharpening angle is sharp so that the drill “piles up” well into the stone. Turn on the blow. the extension during drilling tiles.

Quality options are not cheap, for example Bosch. they are the lowest price category, for example, about 160 costs 10 mm. If we take the company “Brash”, then we note the products of Hawra and domestic Russian Atlant. Here and the price tag is several times larger, but they “endure” longer.

There is often a need to make a hole of large diameter in the tile and here the crowns will come to the rescue. They come in different diameters, starting from 10 mm to large diameters of 70 cm and above.

It is best to drill such crowns in a stationary drilling machine (preferably with water cooling), although you can try a drill, but the whole salt is that there are crowns without a center drill, so when drilling the tile, the drill begins to “run” and is very difficult to flin.

Therefore, when buying a crown, pay attention to whether there is a central drill. If it is, then it will be very convenient to work with a regular drill, the drill will not “run” on the tile. Well, if there is no center, then you will need to drill on a stationary machine. This is time.

Further, the nuance. crowns on tiles and porcelain tiles do not fundamentally differ, look the same externally. Of course, when working with tiles, the crown will last longer, after all, porcelain tile-very hard material and drill wear out faster. By the way, if the problem is for you to find a crowned drill on the tile, then it (tiles) can also be drilled with an ordinary crown on concrete. The main thing is to drill without a blow, slowly-weighing.

However, if you observe all the conditions for proper operation, a simple diamond crown will be able to defeat up to 20-50 holes in porcelain tiles, this result is very solid, believe me. And only you need to observe-low drilling rate (200-500 revolutions per minute), good cooling (necessarily water) and on a stationary machine. Observing these 3 rules, the crowns work out in full. And the diamond tool is very sensitive to cooling.

A set of crowns with carbido-wolfram

In addition to diamonds, specially for porcelain tiles, there are crowns with carbido-wolframic spraying. They also proven themselves perfectly, moreover, they fell in love with our customers for being in a set.

4 pieces of various diameters are included (the most running diameters for drilling holes for sockets and others.) that are attached to one base. Take the Crafts. reliable and for a long time even by brick.

Such a tool as clock is drilling brick, ceramic tiles, granite, marble and other stone. You can even try concrete, but I would not advise, after all, I don’t want to “ruin” them on ordinary concrete, since there are special crowns for him.

Here, perhaps, are the main 3 types of drills on tiles and porcelain tiles, which everyone works. Choose the drill “for your needs”, do not overpay, if there is no need and of course, follow the rules for using a diamond tool, all this will help to “extend” life to consumables. Still, they are expensive.

Drill with diamond spraying (crown) on the tile and not only, with a central drill. Norms or garbage complete? Check.

I don’t know how you are, but I always did not like to drill tiles with such cords. But there are no others. The fact is that for the “diamond crown”, for accurate drilling you need a special conductor. Which few have few. Although it is not expensive. And I always, when I drilled, recalled the kind word of the creators and manufacturers of these “crowns” and wondered: well, could it really be possible to make a drill in the center like “crowns” for metal or wood. And here is a miracle of miracles. Flipping at Alik’s offer, I see a drill that I mentally represented every time when drilling tiles. I order without hesitation. I am happy to take the package by mail, and I break off (((in the bag lies the usual “crown”, without the slightest hint of some kind of central guide

Although the “crown” in the shank has a through hole and there you can pin the central drill, drilling the hole and cutting the thread. But I bought a ready.made option. And on the seller’s page, well, everything is just pictures of “crowns” with a central drill. Not like many 50×50 and there you won’t understand what they sell, but absolutely everything

I rarely open disputes on Ali, mainly only on the not coming premises. But here, even without hesitation, he opened the dispute, put the pictures, and Alik closed it in my use, after 15 minutes, without even waiting for the seller’s response. Then angry reviews began to appear under the goods that the “crown” without a drill. After some time, sold changed photos of the goods, and then completely closed the lot.

I did not lose time in vain, and wrote to another seller, the same “crowns”. Like, dear man, and with the guides you have “crowns”. And I get an answer that no. FIG to you, not guides. They are mocking or something. But once on Alik, the pictures of these “crowns” are full, then they exist, and not only on renders. After that, I developed violent activity and began to scribble letters to all sellers in a row, who had such lots of such lots. And to my surprise, only one of them answered yes. I ordered him. I ordered a diameter of 22 mm, under the polypropylene pipe “twenty”. While the package was moving towards my subscriber box, I am in a construction store, imagine, I stumble upon the same “crowns”

Chinese. Their price tag is really not the same as on Alik. 22-millimeter costs about 8. But the fact is that we have them on sale, albeit figs from what brand. And here you can reflect. Why do others not make such “crowns”. Why are they in principle made without a drill. Maybe there is some kind of catch? Type is more difficult to drill. Because you need to drill simultaneously in two places: the central hole and the main. Or something else. In general, I don’t know. No, if you google, then you can find them

But they are rare. And you need to try right to find them. Some other conspiracy. Meanwhile, the second crown came. And here everything is already in place

The “crown” is slightly different from the first. She has one hole in the case. I don’t know why these holes in the “crowns”, I personally with a screwdriver I pick out the puck that received from drilling. Also, this “crown” of the shank does not have a through hole. And he seems to be round, but he has three worn faces. I think that the shank does not see in the cartridge. Although there is usually no such load on such sovers. anyway. And the “crown” itself and the central drill are noblely covered with chrome or nickel, and shine so that they tear your eyes. The “crown” was packed in a tube, and a hexagon was still in the kit to change the drill

The drill is easy to extract. This is a regular feathers on ceramics and glass

And also on the shank has a staged line. But this is that the stop screw would be where to rest. From experience, I can say that these locks of fuflo are complete. And in them either the faces turn out, or the thread is licked. In any case, I usually came across such. And I changed them to ordinary screws under the screwdriver

Sizes of subgage diameter “crown”. 21.5 mm at the place of spraying. 22.2 mm Length “Crown”. 65 mm the length of the cylindrical part. 35 mm diameter of the pen of the center drill. 6 mm shank diameter. 10 mm

But, let’s start testing. Take wall ceramic tiles

This is a piece of tile trend 7C production “Keramin”. We mark the middle of the rhombic and try to drill a hole. As you can see to guess the middle of the rhombus in my eye, it almost happened))

I will not say that I am perfect in the crossroads. Because the “crown” itself covers a slightly overview, at the beginning of the drilling. So if you need to do it perfectly exactly accurately, it is better to first tap it first with a normal feathers, and then continue with a “crown”. At the very beginning of the drilling from the central drill, pieces of metal began to fall off