Making A Dog House With Your Own Hands
Each dog must have its own booth, and it is absolutely not important where your four-legged pet lives – in an aviary or on a leash. Therefore, the real owner builds a kennel before getting a dog. And below in the text we will introduce you to the details of the construction of such a home.
In our climate, the dog box should be, first of all, warm, and only then strong and aesthetically attractive. Therefore, the ideal building material for the kennel is a tree, or rather, a bar of 10 × 10 centimeters. The walls of this thickness will provide a comfortable temperature in the "home" of a pet, even in severe frosts. In addition, the timber is unnecessary to trim the outside, and yet it looks more than attractive.
However, the booth from a bar is a very expensive pleasure. Such a building material is not cheap, and not every dog owner can cut down a kennel from a bar or log with his own hands. Therefore, instead of sawn timber, inexperienced builders prefer to use cheaper options – plank or shalevku.
As practice shows, a booth from a bar will look the most attractive.
In this case, the doghouse is assembled from boards 4-5 cm thick, insulated outside and sheathed with some kind of finishing material. As the latter, you can use a profiled sheet, lining, shalevku and other facade materials. In the role of insulation is usually foam, less often – mineral wool. Such housing will be durable, and warm, and beautiful. However, the booth is not the only option for craftsmen.
An alternative to a wooden booth can be a frame construction assembled from oriented strand board (OSB) and bars with a cross section of 5 × 5 cm. The latter are used to build a frame that is sheathed by OSB from the inside and outside, and a heater is laid between the panels. This technology allows you to collect a warm and externally attractive kennel. However, the floor of such a booth will have to be made from the board, because even moisture-proof slabs will sooner or later swell up and injure the paws of the animal with splinters.
Well, as a roofing material in all three cases, you can use either corrugated flooring, or slate, or metal tile. And the roof can be both single-slope and dual-slope. And in the first case, the construction will be much simpler than in the second, so for inexperienced builders, it is better to use single-sided schemes and drawings of booths.
Before you start building a home for a dog, you need to decide on its size, based on the size of your pet. Indeed, in a small dwelling the dog will be crowded, and in a too big one it will be cold. Therefore, before building a house for a pet, it is necessary to measure its dimensions, namely:
- The length of the dog from nose to tail.
- The width of the chest of the animal.
- The height of the pet at the withers.
And all these parameters must be removed correctly, that is, when the dog performs a specific command of the owner. For example, it is better to calculate the length after the dog executes the command "lie", and the width of the chest after the execution of the order "sit". The height of the animal at the withers can be measured after the command "near".
Option for the lazy – to measure your pet in a standing position
Of course, all measurements should be done on an adult dog, and if a puppy got into the house, then it is better to focus not on its parameters, but on data from reference books, focusing on the pet’s breed. If the breed is not known, then the booth can be built under the dimensions of the parents.
After the dog’s dimensions are fixed, the master can proceed to the calculation of the parameters of the booth. In this case, you need to focus on the following rules:
- The length of the kennel is equal to the same parameter of the animal, plus 5-10 centimeters.
- The width of the dog house is better to make equal to the length, because the animal must turn around facing the manhole when leaving the house.
- The height of the manhole should be equal to the measured height at the withers, plus five centimeters.
- The width of the manhole can not be greater than the dimensions of the chest, plus five centimeters.
In the southern regions, the size of a pet home can be increased not by five, but by 10 centimeters. Indeed, in this case it is necessary to provide good ventilation, without which the dog will suffer in the hot season. In the northern areas, the manhole parameters should be reduced, since too large dimensions of the entrance opening of the booth will reduce the heat resistance of the whole structure.
And now, when we are familiar with the materials and the rules for calculating the dimensions of the booth, we can proceed to the review of the technology of building a house for a pet.
Of the tools in this case, we need a hacksaw, chainsaw, ax, chisel, hammer and drill. From building materials, a 10 × 10 cm bar, a 4 × 4 bar and 5 × 10 cm bar, a 2 cm thick shalek floorboard and a 5 cm floor board will have to be brought to the site. Molding timber is calculated around the perimeter of the booth multiplied by the number of crowns. The last parameter is determined from the height of the booth in centimeters, dividing it by 10 (the size of the height of the beam).
For example, if the width and length of the kennel is 100 cm, and the height is 80 cm, then for such a booth we will need 8 crowns (80/10) with a total length of 32 meters (the perimeter (100 100 100 100) is multiplied by the number of crowns – 8). Moreover, the result is better to increase by 10 percent, leaving a margin for trimming.
The construction itself is carried out as follows: first we prepare the base, knocking down a rectangular frame of bars 5 × 10 centimeters. And in the center of the frame is driven in a transverse bar, which increases the rigidity of the structure.
Next, lay on the frame 5-cm board with a pre-selected quarter. At the end of this stage, we will succeed in the foundation, and the basement, and the floor of the booth. The next step is the preparation of the first crown. To do this, we cut four beams (two lengths and widths each) and select a quarter at the ends of the segments.
The formation of a quarter involves the following actions: measure the distance from the end equal to the width of the beam, make a cut on this marker, the depth of which is equal to the height of the beam, then the cut quarter is knocked out with a chisel or ax.
The next step is to assemble the first crown. To do this, we lay the timber along the length of the booth, which is chosen a quarter up, and fix it to the floor with screws. Then we lay the timber width, a quarter down. If done correctly, the selected quarters are combined and form an angular conjugation. Moreover, to ensure the stability of the design, the corners can be strengthened by means of screws or wooden spikes driven into pre-bored holes.
Without a tool and a solid hand will not work
Next, you need to act in a similar way, collecting the walls of the booths of the crowns. At the end of the construction phase of the walls in one of them, cut a hole for a manhole with a chainsaw. And they begin to collect the roof. Formation of the roof begins with the assembly of the ceiling frame: to do this, cross-section bars of 5 × 5 cm are stuffed into the upper crown, placing them in 25-30 cm increments. Then, 2-centimeter boards with the selected quarter are stuffed into the frame, forming the booth ceiling.
In the next step, we need to draw the slope and slope. For this, from the manhole side, a bar of 5 × 10 cm is laid down and fixed – it will be both a support and a pediment. Then on this detail plank bars 5 × 5 cm, one end of which should rest on the support, and the second – on the walls on the opposite side of the booth. Moreover, these bars (lags) should go beyond the boundaries, forming a visor in the area of the manhole. The lagging spacing is 25 centimeters, since dogs love to climb the roof of the booth, the safety margin won’t hurt her.
Next on the logs lay 2-centimeter boards, the edges of which should extend beyond the perimeter of the booth. And already on the plank flooring there is ruberoid and roofing material. Then, to get a warm roof, in the space between the ceiling and the plank roofing they fall asleep and rake up chips or sawdust, having previously sewn one side gable. After filling the under-roof space, the second gable is sewn up. At this installation of the booth from the timber can be considered complete.
To build a shelter for a dog based on a frame lined with boards or panels, we need the following set of tools: a hacksaw, a chisel, a hammer, a drill and a chainsaw or a handheld circular saw. As a building material, we will use a bar of 5 × 10 and 5 × 5 cm, a board 2 and 5 cm thick, glued panels from wood, or rather from chips.
The process itself will begin with the assembly of the base, which is formed in the same way as in the case of a kennel from a bar. That is, from a sawn timber 5 × 10, a basement is assembled (where 10 cm is height, not width), on top of which a 5 cm board is laid, forming floors.
The assembly technology of the frame booth is not much different from the version with a bar
Next you need to put together the frame of the booth itself. To do this, knock down two rectangles, the length and height of which is equal to the corresponding parameters of the kennel. Then these rectangles are connected by crossbars, the length of which is equal to the width of the booth. Special joinery delights in the formation of angular and other mates are not needed here – the bars are joined not in a quarter, but by hammering a nail into the end, through the mating workpiece.
The resulting frame is sheathed from the inside with plywood or 2-cm boards, then insulation is placed between the bars – usually foam sheets 5 cm thick. At the end, 5-cm boards are sewn onto the outer side of the frame and a manhole is cut through by a chainsaw. To do this, you need to draw on the corresponding wall and cut along the contour.
In the northern regions, another five centimeters of foam plastic can be sewn on top of this design, and then the outer surface can be trimmed with a painted sheeting or 2-cm clapboard. However, if you are collecting a booth for a husky, then you will not need a second layer of insulation.
An alternative scheme for assembling the booth involves the use of plywood or chipboard boards instead of plywood. From a standard sheet of such a plate cut the workpiece, which is stuffed on the outer and inner side of the frame. Moreover, this material provides high strength even in the case of a 20-mm panel thickness.
The roof for the frame booth is assembled by the same rules as for the kennel from a bar. That is, the gable above the manhole and the ceiling is first formed, then the logs and the boardwalk are laid. Then the insulation is filled up between the ceiling and the flooring. And at the very end, a waterproof roofing material and roofing material are laid over the flooring.