Manual circular saw from the angle grinder with their own hands
Circular machine from an angle grinder and a jack with their own hands
To make a precise cut of lumber, it is most convenient to use a circular table. You do not need to buy such a machine. If you have an angle grinder, it can be made from it, and without spoiling the angle grinder itself.
- Profile pipe 20×20 and 25×25 mm;
- door hinge;
- Angle 50×50 mm;
- diamond-shaped jack;
- a strip of 20 mm;
- Furniture board or 20 mm plywood;
- saw blade;
- nuts, bolts.
The process of making a circular table
From a profile pipe are welded 2 U-shaped blanks of the table of the machine with the legs of a convenient size.
They are welded to each other with two crosspieces.
To make the mechanism to adjust the output of the saw blade from a pipe of a larger diameter T-shaped billet is welded. Its length should be 1 cm shorter than the distance between the tubes of the table top base.
The resulting part is welded through a hinge to the table frame.
Then 2 eyelets are made from thin sections of angle, which are screwed to the angle grinder through its regular holes for the removable handle.
The lugs are welded to the adjustment mechanism rod on the hinge. Make sure that the angle grinder gearbox does not protrude over the frame. If so, the lugs should be welded down.
At the bottom of the table, between the legs are welded crosspieces. They are then connected by a tube running down the center directly underneath the adjustment bar on the hinge.
Next, you need to finalize the diamond-shaped jack. A wheel with a handle is welded to its adjustment screw. A sleeve is welded into its supporting pad, whose length corresponds to the width of the frame profile tube. Two eyelets are bolted to the sleeve from a strip.
It is necessary to drill the edge of the rod with an angle grinder, and screw the jack to it with lugs. Then it is welded to the crossbar at the bottom.
The angle grinder is fitted with a saw blade.
On the table is fixed a tabletop made of board or plywood. Then the angle grinder is started and jacked up. The disk itself will make a cut for itself.
On the edges of the countertop are milled transverse to the direction of the saw blade grooves.
With their help, a pipe is screwed to the machine with wing bolts, which will serve as a parallel stop when sawing.
Step-by-step instructions on how to make a circular saw from an angle grinder
A circular saw, or simply a “circular saw”, can be useful to any man as during major home repairs, and simply in the economy. And if you suddenly need it. it is not necessary to run to the store for it. You can take an angle grinder and, having spent a little free time, with your own hands turn it into a circular saw.
Step by step instructions
How to make a circular saw from an angle grinder with your own hands? No special drawings or professional skills are required. It will take a little patience and the availability of some tools and improvised means in the house:
Making a sliding stop
First of all it is necessary to assemble a thrust-sliding construction for the future circular saw. To make this part you will need two oblong angles made of metal. they will be located on both sides of the cutting wheel. It is desirable to sharpen the bottom edges of the corners, so that when sawing they do not scratch the workpiece.
Next, the corners are connected to each other along the edges with bolts and nuts, and a gap is left between them using washers. Between the angle bars and the disk on each side must be a gap of 3-4 mm, so the drive when working does not touch the edges of the stop.
Then a clamp is put on the tool body with the tie down. A sliding stop must be rigidly attached to the tie rod. Galvanized tape can be used.
Preparing the gearbox and making the axle handle
With the standard handle of the angle grinder to make a quality cut is difficult enough. Therefore, it is recommended to make the handle with your own hands and then attach it to the angle grinder.
But first you should prepare the tool for such a modification. It is recommended to disassemble the tool gearbox and find areas suitable for drilling. Then drill a few mounting holes with threads for a small bolt in the gearbox housing.
The handle itself is best made of metal (rebar, pipe or crossbar). Drill the fastening holes at the ends of the handle with which it will be attached to the gearbox. Then the handle is fastened to the tool by means of a fastener.
Making an adjustment rod
Before you start using the home-made circular saw, you should equip it with a cutting depth regulator. By means of a so-called control rod.
A piece of reinforcing bar with a diameter of 5 mm is used as an adjusting rod. One end of the rod is bent and flattened, then fixed by the front bolts of the stop from the angle.
The other end of the rod is threaded. This is necessary to get the rod into the hole of the axial handle. Then a nut is screwed on the thread, and the tail part of the rod is threaded into the hole on the handle. After that, another nut is screwed on.
By loosening and tightening these nuts the depth of cut will be adjusted.
Thus, the manual circular saw, made by our own hands, is ready to work
However, for more convenience, you can turn it into a table circular saw. For this you will need a little more patience and a few more tools.
Turning a manual circular saw into a table saw
The first thing to turn a circular saw from a hand tool into a table tool is to choose the table itself. It must be strong and stable. This is important not only for convenient work, but also for safety reasons. For example, an old kitchen table made of wood and metal might work.
Then you need a reinforcing bar or a metal tube with diameter of 15-22 mm. This tube is bent (or cut and welded) into a “U” shape. Then the lower ends of this construction are bent, flattened and fastened to the table in any convenient way. the main thing is to hold it firmly and steadily.
Then a T-arm is welded from two pieces of hollow metal pipe. Its transverse part must be pre-cut and unfolded so that it can be put on the crossbar of the bed, and then fastened with clamps. To the end of the lever itself, also with collars, the ready-made manual circular saw is attached.
So, the table circular saw, made by your own hands, is ready to work. If you replace the disk, it can be used to cut metal. Unfortunately, it can’t handle thick lumber, and it’s not very useful for longitudinal sawing. You can try turning an angle grinder into a circular saw for this purpose.
Circular saw machine
In this case, the angle grinder is not mounted above the table top, but under it. It is not necessary to convert it to a manual circular saw. it is enough to replace the disk and fix it securely under the table top. For this you can use clamps, self-tapping screws or specially made fasteners.
As in the case of a table saw, the table must be strong and stable. It is desirable that it should not just stand on the floor, but be bolted to it. The tabletop should be thick and preferably covered with thin metal sheets. for better sliding of workpieces to be fed in. Alternatively use Laminated chipboard.
The slot in the tabletop must be as wide as the hand saw’s stop, 3-4 mm from the blade in both directions.
For more comfortable work you can equip the table with bars, screwing them on with self-tapping screws.
Finally, it should be remembered that the original purpose of an angle grinder is to grind and cut hard materials. Therefore, when converting an angle grinder into a circular saw, it is necessary to pay special attention to the following points:
- When using the angle grinder as a desktop tool, remember that the lower edge of the disk should rotate toward the master, the upper. from him. It is also desirable to equip your machine with a protective screen made of Plexiglas.
- Feed the blanks into the circular saw machine is not made by hand, but by other blanks.
- The rotation speed of the angle grinder is much higher than that of the circular saw. When installing the angle grinder cutting wheel for wood (150-180 mm), you need to reduce the speed of the tool to 4000-5000 rpm.
How to make a reliable circular saw
Any thing made by your own hands will serve much truer than a factory-made product. How to make a circular saw with your own hands, every craftsman should know, t.к. This will not only save significantly, but also develop the tool to your individual needs.
Homemade circular saw is indispensable for the construction and arrangement of a country house. With its help, you can quickly and easily process significant amounts of wood.
Remaking angle grinder
Device of a homemade circular saw.
The easiest option. is to remake your own angle grinder, but you must remember that this tool has a fairly high power ratings, because of which the work can be complicated. The option with a 150 or 180 mm disc is used, and it is obligatory to have low revolutions (4000-5000 rpm), t.к. Otherwise the cutter will blunt at an unprecedented speed. Usually 3-tooters are used for these kind of modifications.
Variants of fixing the angle grinder to the tabletop:
- On clamps. It’s simple. 2 clamps tighten the tool tightly to the selected work surface. Quite easy to assemble and just as easy to dismantle, and it is the only option when, after dismantling, you can continue to use the tool for its intended purpose.
- Self-tapping screws. Using a drill in the body and an additional handle to make 3 holes, in which then screw in screws and fasten to the work surface. A similar option is also possible with bolts and nuts, which is much more reliable.
- With use of an additional detail. You have to ask a locksmith, so that he turned the connecting part between the table top and the angle grinder. For its attachment will have to remove the protective casing, but after fixing the tool will not move anywhere. This version is the most reliable, though the most uncomfortable.
Layout of elements of homemade circular saw.
It often happens that there is no angle grinder with low revolutions at hand, so you can use a reduction gear. To fasten the working tools are used screws or bolts, depending on the desire to preserve the quality of tools.
Only in the first case mentioned above after achieving the purpose it is possible to dismantle the tool and use it for its intended purpose, and only if it has been used as a circular saw for a very short time. In all other cases it is not even worth considering this option, because.к. the chance of injury at further work is 9 to 10.
Situations are different, so often the protective cover is removed. Do not install it backwards, and as a replacement is better to use a steel angle, welded to the work surface. Such a move will be much more reliable than the factory plastic.
Development based on an asynchronous motor
- asynchronous motor;
- support holder;
- bolts with nuts;
- steel corner;
- welding machine.
The power of the electric motor for a circular saw must be at least 1.5 kW.
This option will be much cheaper and more reliable, but there is much more work. Collector motors can not be used instead of asynchronous motors, t.к. The latter give much more speed with less power, which is optimal for grinders.
First choose a motor, the power of which should be at least 1 kW, or better 1.5-2 kW, at 4000-4500 rpm. Such a variant gives a little more power than required, so when working with it will not be difficult, and if it lasts for 10 years, it will be very little.
If you manage to find the right motor, you need to fix it to the work surface, connect an adapter to the power supply and screw a support bracket for the mill on the shaft. But more often more rotational analogues are purchased, for which you have to buy a step-down reducer. To fasten them to each other it is enough to use bolts and nuts, t.к. the holes are almost always opposite. Otherwise you will have to use self-tapping screws for metal and attach the motor this way.
The working surface should be metal if possible, in any case very reliable, t.к. the power of the resulting tool is quite large, and when working it can start to vibrate. As protection is used an ordinary angle or steel profile, which is welded on the work surface slightly away from the cutter. Located at the bottom of the table top, t.к. the upper part can not be affected. Particular attention should be paid to the weld, which should not split, even from a hard blow.
Even with a perfectly designed instrument, there is often an unfortunate mistake. improper positioning of the instrument. When rotating, the lower edge of the disc must rotate toward the master, while the upper, respectively, away from him. If this is not done, you will very quickly have to make friends with the ophthalmologist, even with the use of protective glasses. And when done properly, work boots can always be swept with any brush after the job is done.
A short afterword
It is not uncommon that a homemade work tool has to be replaced with a factory one. There may be different reasons for this, but the circular saw remains derelict, so it needs to be repurposed.
Angle grinder can not be recovered back, and the motor from downtime can rust, so the best option would be a coping saw.
It is not needed very often in the household, but it costs a lot of money. To make a circular saw yourself, you do not need a lot of effort and money, but you need a stock of patience. A quality manufactured tool will serve for many years, and it can be adjusted directly to the needs of the owner, which is impossible with any factory-made analogue.
Such a construction should be particularly strong, but not massive. The effect of stability can be achieved thanks to special fixing elements, which fix the bed on any of the flat surfaces. Creation of the unit can be done without the use of blueprints. It is enough to follow the recommendations given in the article, having minimal construction skills.
For the manufacture of the working surface of the device can be used wood fiberboard or plywood. The most optimal is a plywood sheet, the thickness of which is 9-12 mm. Consider a couple of options on how to arrange the disk drive.
Using the first option is considered the simplest solution. To do this, you should perform the installation of the disk to the regular place of the angle grinder. In other words, to carry out the selection of the same drive, suitable for work with high revolutions. Note that the speed of conventional wood discs is slower. In addition, you should also take into account the size of the circumference of the discs used.
Sawing in wood results in a higher load than using an abrasive wheel.
To prevent possible overload, it is worth using discs of smaller diameters than those that are mainly used for the work of the angle grinder.
The peculiarity of the second option is its slight complexity. But using the belt drives, it is possible to reduce the speed of the disk and create conditions for increasing the torque. In such cases it is possible to create a full-fledged machine. By equipping the equipment with several pulleys, it is possible to make a device on which we can change the ratios. Such machines have the ability to use different disks in the working process, which will allow you to effortlessly saw any wooden materials and even sheet metal.
In homemade machines the angle grinder can be attached not to the working surfaces, but to the bed. Fixation should be performed as securely as possible. Do not use plastic ties, clamps and self-tapping screws for this purpose. Do not neglect this, because due to the resulting vibrations and high speed, mounts can collapse quite quickly, which will entail the most unpleasant consequences.
Provide a secure attachment is possible with the clamps, which are provided as accessories to the angle grinder. Or you can clamp the tool to the structure of the machine by means of homemade clamps. To connect the threaded elements it is necessary to use threadlocks.
You can buy them in many auto parts stores. In order to fix the angle grinder on the machine will suit the use of temporary fixators, for the other parts. permanent.
The next step is to install one of the most important parts, the thrust plate. It must be installed on the work surface parallel to the flat side of the disc.
It is more expedient to make the thrust strips of iron or aluminum corners. The retaining plates must be movable. To do this, the corners are not attached to the work surface, but to other plywood plates. In doing so, the plates are placed on the work surface. The best way to fix them is to use clamps, bought in specialized stores selling construction products. The design of the machine can be invented at your discretion.
The only condition is to place all elements of the equipment as simply as possible. After attaching the desktop to the base and securing the angle grinder, it is necessary to cut a place for the disk. This is easily done through the inside of the machine. After making the required number of marks, you should remove the table to mark the place for the slot with a ruler and an angle. To cut a slot according to the drawn markings, you can use an angle grinder.
Attention! For this task, it is forbidden to install discs on the tool, sawing wood. Since there is a high probability that because of this, the angle grinder can tear. It is practically impossible to hold it with this type of discs.
For cutting plywood it is allowed to use an ordinary abrasive disk. Making a cut at low force, nothing will happen to the angle grinder from this. The only disadvantage can be considered a slight smoke. It is best to do this outdoors, not indoors.
The use of plastic cable ties, for example, is suitable for attaching the cord from the power tool to the machine frame. An on/off switch can be made from an extension cord which has a power on/off button built into it. It is also possible to attach the extension cord to the frame and place the button in any accessible and convenient location.
Health and safety considerations must be taken into account. your life and safety depend on it. One very important accessory you must consider is the guard over the blade. You can use plywood to make it, make a small narrow box, fasten it to the furniture hinges, so that if necessary you can recline. If you ignore such a protective mechanism, you run a considerable risk of damaging your health.
Observe additional safety precautions
The powerful motor and the working parts, which rotate at high speed, are very dangerous not only for the person working at the machine, but also for others. Careless work and ill-considered actions can lead to the fact that the workpiece can easily vomit hands. Such a flying product becomes an uncontrollable weapon. Such a breakdown can cause the saw blade to be destroyed. The flight of small splinters entails dangerous injury. To minimize the risks when building a machine, you should consider the following rules.
- Do not place the on/off button on the stand. It should be placed on one of the side surfaces.
- Provide a protective cover.
- Do not operate this equipment unless it is securely mounted on a stable surface.
Let’s consider the order of assembly of a stationary sawmill, as the safest and most functional device. Step by step instructions:
- Preparatory part. It is necessary to create a working drawing, to think over the design, to specify the dimensions and the set of functions. This step is important, you should not ignore it.
- Purchase and prepare the necessary materials and tools.
- Assembly of the table base. The base for the machine is assembled from a rectangular tube (or an angle tube). Cut off pieces of the required length and weld them together. It is necessary to ensure the stability and strength of the base. Alternatively, it can be made from wooden parts.
- On the surface of the base is placed a sheet of chipboard or plywood, which will serve as a working table. A slot is made in it for the saw blade.
- From below, an angle grinder is attached to the work table with the help of curved metal plates. Holes for screwing handles are used. Hollows are made on the surface of the table so that the bolt heads do not interfere with the movement of the material.
- For convenience and safety of switching on and off the machine it is recommended to take the wire from the start button of the tool to the side edge of the work table, for which use a piece of angle or bent metal plate. The button should be placed as conveniently as possible, so you can turn off the circular saw from any position.
- The sliding stop, which allows you to adjust the width of the cut parts, can be made of different materials. Both the simplest devices are used, like a strip fixed with screws, and more complicated constructions. There are a lot of variants, but the choice is conditioned by the owner’s needs and the nature of the future work.
Creation of additional devices requires some experience and skill in owning the machine. The specific design of the angle grinder allows you to work about 15-20 minutes, after which a break to cool. Given this fact, we can’t count on a wide range of functions.
We suggest you look at variants of homemade circular saws on
From safety point of view, the idea of using the angle grinder as a sawing machine is very dangerous and undesirable. Too high rotational speed of the disc, unreliable fastening of the tool, impossibility of installation of quality protection. all these factors unanimously require to abandon the idea and turn to other options.
However, if the decision is made, the following requirements must be taken into account:
- stability, immobility of the bed;
- rigid mounting of the tool, impossibility of vibration or movement of the angle grinder;
- use only high-speed saw blades.
In addition, the general rules of operation of the circular saw machine must be observed, the main of which are:
- no dangling ties, sleeves, or clothing ends;
- Do not move the workpieces with bare hands in the immediate vicinity of the saw blade;
- if the workpiece jams, immediately shut down the machine and correct the problem;
- start working only after you have reached full rotation speed;
- Do not brake the disk with your hands or foreign objects after disconnection, you must wait until it stops on its own.
Observance of safety rules is a prerequisite for working with woodworking machines. They are considered the most dangerous group of production equipment, so ignore the safety rules on no account.
How to make a manual circular grinder from the angle grinder and mitre lathe 2 in 1
Almost everyone has an angle grinder, but there may not be a manual circular saw or mitre saw. If they are still needed, it is enough to make a special attachment to the angle grinder and very well replace them. It is simple and does not require turning or other complex manipulation.
The sole of the machine must be cut out of sheet steel. It is made small, literally 20×30 cm, it is possible and less.
From the ends a cut is made and the sole is slightly bent for better entry in the future work.
In its corner is welded a piece of round bar length of 60 mm, drilled across the center. Its location and hole orientation should be as shown in the photo.
A fixing bracket for the angle grinder is made from the strip.
You need to drill and bend 2 workpieces. They are screwed to the gearbox of the angle grinder in the regular holes for its handle.
Next, we need to insert a long bolt welded to the bottom of the barrel, and tighten it with a nut. Strips of staple clamped on the angle grinder are welded to it. The tool must be aligned so that the cutting disc is positioned strictly parallel to the longitudinal edge of the base plate.
A slit is made in the base plate under the cutting disc. Then a stop is welded on it from a strip to level the workpieces when trimming at a right angle.
Screwing the sole to the edge of the table, we get a crosscut saw. You can also use the machine tool as a hand circular saw for cutting sheet metal, moving it along the parallel stop.
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How to make a stationary circular saw from an angle grinder?
The main difference between the design of manual and stationary tools is the presence of the bed. The work is done in this sequence:
- Prepares a special table, which is covered with a sheet of galvanized steel or tin plate. To fix the selected material on the plane, it is sufficient to tighten it on the edges of the table with metal corners. The base, on which the mechanical part of the tool will be installed, should be as stable as possible. Otherwise, swaying will lead to inaccurate sawing of materials. In addition, the oscillation of the table can be traumatic.
- According to the safety requirements, the circular saw blade must not protrude one third of its diameter above the plane of the table. Therefore in order to cut a timber bar with a thickness of approx. 10 cm you need a circular saw blade of at least 35 cm.
- Stationary circular from the angle grinder must be made on the basis of a sufficiently productive engine. Here you need to use the engine from the angle grinder with a power of at least 1 kW.
- The base for the adjustable stop is a metal angle of 7-8 cm in length. The specified element is put on the table and fixed with bolt connections.
- A stationary circular grinder from an angle grinder implies the creation of a shaft. It is recommended to buy the latter ready-made, as critical errors may occur during independent milling. You should choose a shaft that contains mounts to securely hold the circular saw blade.
- A V-belt type pass will serve as a transmission.
If necessary, the circular from the angle grinder with their own hands can be made on the basis of a more powerful motor, extracted from an old washing machine. In general, the choice of motor here is limited only by the anticipated power of the future tool, which should be obtained at the output.
Making a circular saw
The circular from an angle grinder is made by your own hands in several steps:
It is necessary to ensure the stability of the table, excluding possible swaying. For the frame you can choose the construction of metal profile. For the surface of the table you can choose from iron sheet, plywood, glass, chipboard. A slot must be provided for the cutting disc.
angle grinder must be fixed to the ledge under the table top with clamps. Threaded joints must be secured with clamps. When placing the disc, it is necessary to ensure that a significant part of it protrudes over the table top. A protective cover is installed over the disc.
To create a thrust bar is used metal angle. It is recommended to install it on a special plywood. Fix the plate with the slat to the table top with the clamps.
It is necessary to take out the wires and connect them to an extension cord. You can fix the wires under the tabletop with a stapler.
Check by hand how easily the disc can be turned. It is worth additionally to check its running with the voltage off. Briefly start the circular saw in order to check its effectiveness.
The tool is ready to work. From time to time you should check the motor temperature for overheating. The motor and gearbox of the angle grinder must not be subjected to prolonged strain.
Hi guys. I thought about doing a huyumbola (and what, everyone does, so I need it all the more), but I have not gathered yet. But I made a little moai. in a thousand years will grow.
first sketched two projections on a cut gabbro flowerbed with dimensions 20108 cm. this is the most difficult stage for me, I’m a very bad draftsman. I used the Easter Island pics and the 3D model found on the net in 5 views.
then sawed out the contours of the 2 adjacent sides.
Finished off the contours of the remaining sides in roughing.
I got hung up, thinking about how to make a face. I have no spatial imagination. I don’t know how to train it, but if anyone knows.?
updated the marking and began slowly to cut the nose and cheekbones with a disc of smaller diameter.
I used a contouring template to transfer the curvature of the cheekbones symmetrically.
praised myself for having it.
Finished up to _more or less_ symmetric form, marked the contours of arms and chest, smoothed ears, rounded corners, lightly sanded with a used cutting wheel, in which there was little diamond left (smoothes cutting traces, reveals the texture of the stone).
the last step was to cut the eyes and the mouth with the disc cutter. I used a ball cutter to mark the nostrils. you can see them a little bit in this photo.
the back of the head. here you can see how it’s all crooked))
Tools: angle grinder, 125mm diamond wheel, 50mm.
straight grinder, diamond cutter disk 20mm, ball 10mm.
operating time: three hours, three and a half hours. I stayed at work for two evenings. plus about an hour of marking, drawing and redrawing. complicated!
What I made of it: fear thee, but do thine own hands. happy with the right expression =).
with this expression and went to the city on the Neva, to his new owner.
How to make a table for a circular saw
In the last post about redoing circular saw @dvadebila asked me to show how I built the saw into the table, and judging by the number of added subscribers, it is still interesting to someone, so I’m writing the post.
Tabletop of 18mm plywood 1100x750mm.
steel legs from Leroy, 4 swivel wheels for easy movement around the workshop, two of them with a stopper. Along the perimeter of the table top is reinforced with a 20x40x2 steel profile tube, and it would be good to weld it, but I think it will be okay.
The place for the saw bed is milled to a depth of about half the thickness of the table top, firstly I milled too deep and the plywood noticeably sagged inside when sawing with the disk, I had to glue a piece of 4mm plywood in the recess and level its surface with the milling machine.
The saw is attached to the table top with three clamps, consisting of a 4mm steel band, a plastic furniture leg with an M6 thread and an M8 bolt with an internal hexagon. The clamp bolts are screwed into the threaded bushings screwed into the table top. To avoid looking for a wrench every time to unscrew the bolts, I bought a separate wrench and made a leather pouch on the button.
This is how the saw is attached to the table, a three-point clamp is enough. Despite the fact that the place for the sole was milled to a uniform depth over the entire area, in order to keep the saw blade perpendicular to the table, I had to glue a few layers of masking tape on one side under the sole.
The parallel stop is made of square aluminum profile 30x30mm, with a steel ruler glued to the side of the disk for greater durability and to make the boards slide more easily when sawing.
There are two parallel slots milled in table top for slide, inside of it small self-tapping screws are fixed anodized aluminum profile 10x15mm.
I made a carriage for cross cuts. Base. plywood 8mm, oak boards screwed to the plywood at the back and front.
For sawing long workpieces I made an additional table, which is attached to the back of the main table.
Made it out of the same plywood and profile tube as the main table.
Foot is made of oak, hinged on the usual hinge.
The table is fastened by two bolts M10, for depth limitation a pair of nuts with a retaining ring is screwed on.
The table can be set in three different positions (for different widths of boards to be sawn), for this purpose 3 pairs of holes are drilled in the profile tube of the table.
This is what it looks like when assembled.
Circular saw from an angle grinder
This option of making the machine is more popular, as a rare owner, who likes to do everything with his own hands, does not have, or in the near future is not going to buy, an angle grinder. The first of the steps in making a stationary saw system is also to make a special table to mount the angle grinder.
In this case, the process becomes more complicated, as the main difficulty is to think about how to attach the angle grinder to the bed: how to make a sliding stop and axial handle. However, there is a ready-made method that allows you to get a reliable connection.
- To make the sliding stop we take two pieces of steel angle. They are fastened on both sides of the saw blade. Then they are connected by a cross tie (bolts and nuts). Washers are used to provide the necessary gap.
- Beforehand, a metal band clamp is stretched on the tool, the screw tie of it should be at the bottom. A metal strip, folded in half, is attached to the holes designed for the sliding stop.
- In the gearbox of the angle grinder several holes are made for the bolts: first the body is disassembled, then the points for drilling are marked. They will be used to fasten the axis handle. This element is made from a rod or metal pipe. Shape the handle into a bracket. Drill a hole at the ends where it will be attached to the gearbox.
- They make the bar, which is obliged to regulate the depth of cut. It is made from a piece of metal bar. Form a hinge on one side of it, then rivet it slightly, drill a hole designed for the thrust bolt. On the other end, a thread is cut and one secure nut is screwed on first, and after the structure is assembled, the second nut is screwed on second. The adjustment of the cutting depth will be done by tightening or loosening them.
Not too complicated actions will make it possible to get a full-fledged circular machine for cutting different materials. Do the same with the drill, which can to some extent replace the angle grinder. To avoid potential mistakes, it is better to use the drawings, which can be found on the Internet if you want anyone “suffering”.
If the master dreams to engage in woodworking seriously, then the way he has only one. the manufacture of a full-fledged circular machine. The creation of such a machine will take more effort and time, but in the process of its operation it will pay for all the costs. The only requirement is a well-thought-out drawing, so it is better to use ready-made schemes, which can be slightly “adjusted” to your conditions.
This is the base for any machine. a frame on which all the basic elements of the construction are mounted. It must be stable and reliable, so the only optimum material. this is unbeatable metal. The best options are thick-walled angle or the same profile tube. To fasten the parts of a stationary machine, welding is usually used. If you plan a collapsible design, you can allow the use of bolted connection, but in this case, mount will be “hard” to call it: you need to constantly check it.
Here too, metal is a favorite. The best materials will be steel or aluminum alloys. A possible variant is thick plywood, which is trimmed with sheet iron. The ideal table top for any woodworking machine must have a smooth surface, be able to withstand friction, to withstand the weight of 50-60 kg easily, without the slightest hint of deflection.
A hole is made in it for the disk. There are two options that are used in the case of the circular saw:
The second method is preferable for metal tabletop, as in home conditions, cutting a groove is an operation quite difficult. A parallel stop is attached to the tabletop. A handy metal corner is often used in this role. For its attachment also make a hole. Reliable and powerful clamps are an alternative.
The choice of engine for the future circular saw depends on what kind of lumber is planned not to process it. If discs with a diameter of 150-170 mm will be used, then a unit with a power of 0.5 kW will be enough for them. For larger discs (from 350 mm) a bigger engine is suitable. at least 1,1 kW.
If the circular machine will be outdoors (for example, outside under a shed), even a gasoline engine with low power can be used. It is possible to make it detachable.
The best drive for the circular saw is V-belt drive. In this case, 2 pulleys are used: the first on the motor, the second. on the drive shaft. The reasons for this choice. safety and convenience: in the event of a small emergency, the belt will simply slip, alerting the master to turn off the device.
Pulleys with different ring grooves (grooves) or diameters make it easier to adjust the speed of the disc, which makes it possible to find the best mode for processing different types of wood. It is almost impossible to make the shaft to which the rotor rotates by hand, so this part has to be purchased or ordered from a turner. The bearings used to mount the shaft must be sealed, otherwise their service life will be short.
Those who are not into metalwork can make a circular saw that has the pendulum suspension of the motor as a special feature. Its convenience lies in the fact that the shaft, the motor and the cutting disc are located in a common frame.
One side of the frame is hinged to the frame, the other side is held by a screw that can be adjusted if the height of the blade exit needs to be changed. The advantage of this system is the ability to use discs of different sizes, easy to adjust the height of the cut.
A simple circular saw with their own hands can be made from various tools, but the best option is a stationary model, equipped with a powerful motor. On the other hand, the choice of model depends entirely on the master, the planned billets “favorites” and the amount of work.
You can get acquainted with the process itself by watching this fascinating