Mechanism of circular saw lift with their own hands
Elevator for circular saw with his own hands. Circular saw with their own hands: drawings, video, description. Circular table saw
Most people who work professionally with wood would like to have at their disposal all the necessary machines. But unfortunately this is not always possible. Some people can’t afford the workshop space, others, and I think most people can’t afford the money. Any machine, even the most primitive one, costs a pretty penny.
But what prevents you from simply making it yourself? Nothing is impossible for a man of intelligence. For every carpenter, the circular saw is the main tool. But it happens that there is only a hand saw available, and this is not always convenient for large amounts of work. In order not to buy a separate tool, you can do yourself a mini saw stationary for the convenience of work. to make under it a sawing table (stand).
Circular saw table
When choosing a circular saw you should be guided by the following characteristics:
- Power of the saw. If the amount of work is quite large, it is desirable to take the tool with a capacity of not less than 1.2 kW.
- Cutting depth. The thickness of the material to be processed depends on this parameter. In manual saws it is 40-70mm. But when you install it in the table will be reduced in the area of 10 mm.
- Buttons placement. The design of the saw table must provide free and safe access to all control buttons, otherwise you will need to modify the control system by yourself.
- Turning speed. For cutting wood, a high rotation speed is a priority. It affects the quality of the cut. For plastic, for example, it is not very good. The high speed of rotation of the wheel heats up the plastic. Choose medium performance. 3-4 thousand. RPM is sufficient.
Above all. clean off contaminants
Sawdust and resin deposits are inevitably accumulated on machine parts, even with an effective dust extraction system. Contamination makes it difficult for moving parts and adjusting components to work.
Start maintenance with your own hands circular saw with a circular saw blade: replace blunted and tarred with a special cleaner or white spirit.
Photo shows a cleaned-off saw blade that has been used in softwood sawing for two months.
Now check the spindle flange and make sure its surface is flat and clean, since uneven seating of the disc causes vibrations. Remove any steel burrs with a file and use a solvent to remove any dirt.
Tip. Purchase saw blades to match the spindle size of your circular saw, rather than using adapter rings. The bearings are made of soft alloys and are often deformed when re-installed.
Remove sawdust and sludge from the saw’s housing with a vacuum cleaner with a crevice nozzle. It is not necessary to polish all surfaces to a high gloss; pay more attention to moving parts such as pinions, pulleys, gears, threaded parts, and adjusting stops. Remove hardened deposits with solvent-soaked steel brush, but be careful not to spill any of the liquid into the bearings.
After a thorough cleaning, lubricate threads, tilt and lift mechanisms with low-viscosity machine oil. After pouring a few drops onto the parts, turn the flywheels until the grease spreads evenly.
Tip. Dust and sawdust quickly adhere to conventional oil. The problem is solved by applying a “dry” sliding grease that hardens on the surface and does not attract dirt. With a similar composition, but on a silicone basis, you can wipe the table of the circular machine and guide bars.
The basic prerequisite for the table is the material chosen. It is recommended to use a solid steel sheet, duralumin or silumin alloy. Materials such as moisture-resistant plywood, plexiglass and textolite require treatment and installation over galvanized sheet. The use of any material in the manufacture must meet the main conditions:
In cases where the conditions are not met, a circular saw made with your own hands can stop due to a jammed disc or a broken drive. The consequences could vary from a ruined part to personal injuries.
Several options are known for making a circular saw table. Stationary tables can be sawn or made of two parts. The circular saw blade should not protrude more than a third of its diameter.
There are several types of gears that can be used in the design of the circular saw, made by our own hands:
The use of belt drive is considered to be the preferred option. Using a mechanism with gears can lead to jamming if a foreign body gets in and injure the worker. When selecting the diameter of the pulley, the maximum number of revolutions of the saw blade is taken into account.
Universal sawing table for circular saw
So, id215711128 has a powerful circular saw, which is more than 20 years old. Cutting depth of saw 65 mm. In the course of its operation it turned out that it is difficult to achieve good wood sawing with it. Causes: blade angle and depth of cut settings are constantly being thrown off. Base of saw is made of thin metal, and as a result it bends, and the geometry is not maintained when sawing the workpiece.
First the user went the standard way. started to improve the saw. Made devices to keep cutting perpendicularity. I put wedges to maintain the depth of cut. I built the saw into the table, as it is, but the weak M4 threads on the circular saw legs were loosening, and each new pass had to be readjusted. Despite the difficulty of sawing, id215711128 made 5 casing boxes. “Accident”, which gave the impetus for the construction of a multifunctional sawing table, occurred when the craftsman was making the sidewalls for the door trim.
I sawed a two-meter long beam. Already chose the quarters, cut the locks, and now I have to choose the slit, designed to fix the product on the wall. I made several cuts with the saw and, when the workpiece was almost finished, the circular saw lost its depth. I practically sawed the timber in half, completely ruining the piece. That’s it, at this point I realized that I’d had enough of this “dancing with tambourines”, and needed a normal sawing table.
First, the user bought plywood for the tabletop in a construction hypermarket. Then I developed a technical specification of what requirements the table had to meet. So:
- I need the maximum possible reach of the saw blade.
- The saw blade must have an adjustable tilt angle of 90-45 degrees and an outreach of 0. max with a reliable fixation of the set parameters.
- On the table must fit large cross-section parts, so the dimensions of the table. 1.22 x 1 m.
- You need an adjustable and securely lockable parallel stop, as well as adjustable horizontal and vertical hold-downs for the work pieces.
- The table should be multifunctional, with the possibility of further installation of a router and jigsaw.
“universal joinery tools” recommend reading the articles: home-made workbench-mounting table and universal folding trestle.
Having defined with requirements, id215711128 thought of what to make the mechanism of lifting and lowering of saw. The choice fell on a car screw rhombic jack.
Then it was time to upgrade the circular saw. From it the user removed the sole, the saw blade cover, t.к. it was in the way, and disk protection. The saw was disassembled with the expectation that it could be reassembled if necessary. I mounted the saw on a hoist.
Saw is tilted by means of a home-made swivel mechanism made of a pin and planks.
According to the homebuilder, because of the metric threads the knobs have to be turned a lot, but it’s not critical in case of infrequent machine readjustments.
Parallel stop has length 1220 mm. To avoid displacement of the far edge of the workpiece when it is sawn the stop is equipped with additional clamping.
Testing of the machine showed that everything works as it should. Tilt angles and cutting depths are not affected.
At this point the user took time out and thought about how to upgrade the machine for sawing larger workpieces. He thought of making a carriage, but it would “eat up” about 1 cm of the cutting depth. This might be critical, t.к. The casing box parts are made of timber and are sized 1.5-2m, with a cross section of 10x20cm. Besides, such a beam weighs a lot, and it is uncomfortable to push it on the table. The solution. the workpiece stands in place and the saw moves.
I remembered that when I was sawing plywood in a construction hypermarket, they did it with a “crafty” machine, the saw blade of which goes from top to bottom and left to right. On reflection, I decided to make a dolly with rollers and guides to move the saw.
To make the fixture, the user bought furniture cart casters and a 5×5 cm angle. At first he decided to put only the bottom and horizontal rollers. But, since.к. because of the forces, when moving the cart it can be skewed, the craftsman put additional rollers on the cart, which rest against the lower surface of the table top.
During the “running-in” of the table I had to adjust the coaxiality of the kerf direction and the direction of movement of the cart.
For this purpose, washers were put under the fastening of the guide angles.
After adjusting the machine, the homebuilder tested it by sawing a 20×5 cm board.
Taking a simple circular saw as a base, I was able to make a circular saw and mitre saw with the ability to make cross and rip cuts. It is possible to saw either by rigidly fixing the circular saw, moving the workpiece, or by moving the saw, with the workpiece clamped by clamps with adjustment of blade depth and inclination. I plan to further modify the machine to make it even more functional and convenient. For this you need to put:
- Quickly removable fixed stop with a protractor to end the workpieces at any desired angle when moving the saw.
- Movable protractor for processing small wooden pieces with a fixed circular saw.
The user also installed an eccentric clamp to secure the carriage in any of the saw’s positions.
To keep the tabletop positioned relative to the pedestal when removing the saw mechanism and cart, screwed two pins that go into the holes in the tabletop.
Cross-cutting carriage also made.
With the saw stationary, the carriage moves perpendicularly by means of metal profiles (U-shaped and square) built into the table top, sliding into each other.
When you tighten the screwdriver the carriage will be locked. Now the circular saw blade saws the workpiece set in the carriage.
Additionally, a recess is made in the tabletop for attaching a hand router.
The tool is secured with the pins that come with it.
To keep the cutter grips from resting on the mountings, they’ll need more work, and the tool will also be raised and lowered by the “elevator” made from clamps similar to the circular saw lifter.
You can keep up with the modifications of the sawing machine in the id215711128: my story of machine construction.
Decide on design and construction
The simplest variant for a circular saw table is a construction made of sufficiently thick plywood and planks
The base can be made of wood or metal. For the table top choose leafy species of wood. A hole must be made in it for the disc. The key feature of the created table should be convenience.
Care must be taken to ensure its stability. No loosening is allowed, otherwise it will have a negative impact on safety. The table top should have the flattest possible surface. Then the likelihood of injury at work will be reduced.
The table for the circular saw requires the obligatory presence of guides
The construction can be supplemented with a special wedging knife. It can be removed. It is equipped with a special disc protector, which allows getting rid of chips flying into the worker.
The guide carriage for the circular saw table
Some people remove the factory shell and replace the factory platform with a homemade one. If you do not intend to saw at an angle, you can remove the parts that regulate the inclination of the disc.
Scheme for making a table for a circular saw
Before starting work, it is recommended to go through the preparatory stage. Be sure to make a drawing. This will facilitate the process of creating the construction. First calculate the table dimensions, then transfer them to the paper. The hole to be made in the structure must fit exactly to the dimensions of the saw. Everything depends on the brand of equipment. That is why you cannot make a one-size-fits-all opening. The base must be stable and be able to withstand mechanical loads.
Drawing of the table for a circular saw with their own hands
It is unacceptable for the structure to overhang to one side. The dimensions of the table top must fit the sawing flow. The final version is revealed, based on individual desires. Some people work comfortably with a folding table or a product with small dimensions.
Drawing of universal table machine
In the drawings an important point should be taken into account. If you plan to leave tools or materials on the table when working, then the dimensions of the table top should be increased to a square meter in area. Suitable size would be 120 x 120 cm. It is important to make the drawing slowly and carefully to make sure that everything is done correctly.
Circular saw table with detailed description
Assembly of the table for the circular saw
Boards prepared for the legs, cut to length at a slight angle with a taper to the bottom.
The upper ends are also beveled, so that the structure stands with a small spread. The legs are attached to the table top frame with bolts through the drilled holes. For better connection strength, square bars glued into the inner corners of the frame can be included in the screed.
It remains to install the working mechanism into the circular saw. Hand circular saw is mounted to the table top of the machine from below. The disk is inserted into the cutout and the device is secured by means of screws, the heads of which must be flush-fitted into the plywood sheet from above.
As a protective layer for the material and to improve the sliding of workpieces the table top and other wooden parts of the machine are coated with varnish in several layers. On a surface of a tabletop it is possible to draw a marking for cutting of skirting boards or platbands ends that are prepared for joining “on a whisker”.
Circular saw table assembly diagram.
Alternatively, the machine’s work surface is made of two metal plates.
They are screwed to the frame, leaving a gap for the disk. Bolt holes are countersinked from above to drive in the heads. Bar for checking the size of material being sawed can be secured with clamps.
The more convenient support for the workpiece to be sawed is made of steel angle bars with 60 and 80 mm flanges. Its length must be longer than the table length.
The ends of the narrow flange are cut off and the wide flange is bent onto the tabletop. Holes are drilled in the lugs and threaded for the clamping screws. The guide bar from the angle is installed according to the template of the workpiece and is bolted to the end of the table top.
If you will be using the machine all the time, it is better to weld the table from steel angles.
Switch button can be fixed to the frame of the table top or installed on the wall of the workshop, using an extended cable to connect the machine. The push button on the body of the saw can be shunted or simply secured with a clamp. The machine’s shut-off device must be easily accessible.
The mini-machine can be built without a work table for cutting small parts.
An old drill can be used as the electric drive for the sawing mechanism. A special shaft for the drill chuck must be ordered from the turner. Toothed disc and 2 bearings must be firmly mounted.
A frame for mounting the shaft is made of two parallel pieces of hardwood board with holes for pressed bearings. The working surface can be made of cellulite or plexiglass. The drill and the frame of the device are fixed to a board 30-40 mm thick.
The tool, set upside down with the handle, must be securely clamped to the base in the cylindrical part of the body near the chuck. The board, which serves as the base of the mini-circular saw, is clamped to the usual table with screw clamps. The body of the inverted drill and the base plate must be level.
The guide bar for the mini-circular saw can be made from a 50×50 mm bar.
At one end of it is rigidly fixed to the stop, which is cut out of a board. It must be close to the end of the work surface. Threaded rod is fastened to the other end of the guide bar.
The second stop (bar) is put on it through the hole drilled in it. The supports are tightened by tightening the wing nut on the stud. The guide limiter is set at the required distance from the disk and fixed by the clamp type.
Homemade mini circular saw allows you to saw parts of sufficiently small thickness.
At your discretion, you can improve the home-made circular saw in a simple design by installing additional elements and the use of other materials. To improve the functionality of the machine, you can equip it with a carriage for feeding the material, change the attachment of the working mechanism, install other additional devices to control the saw.
Circular saw is a convenient and functional tool for sawing workpieces made of wood. With its help it is possible to cut sheets of plywood, to saw boards, to cut a bar, skirting boards, platbands, etc.
д. But with a large amount of work, for example, in the construction of the house, it is more convenient to use the stationary version of the device. How to make a circular saw with your own hands from hand tools?
Construction and materials for stationary saw
Homemade circular saw with your own hands can be made by fixing the hand tool on a stable base. In the simplest version, the device is installed on wooden trestles or on a table assembled from plywood and boards. The tool is fastened underneath the plywood sheet, and a saw cut is made for the toothed disk in the tabletop.
Parameters of the design of the machine depend on the size of the processed material. The power of the hand-held tool is selected according to it (800-1200 W or more). To perform a clean cut, it is better to install a model with a speed of 3000-4000 revolutions.
To make the machine will require wood materials, fasteners and tools:
Tools for making a homemade circular saw.
20 mm thick plywood; a board for ribs and legs (50×100 mm); sandpaper, joinery glue and varnish; screws, self-tapping screws, clamps; tape measure, pencil, ruler; jigsaw, drill, electric screwdriver.
The table height is selected according to the height of the master and is usually about 1 m, the length of the table top depends on the size of the materials to be processed.
Other construction variants of a circular saw
In addition to the above-mentioned option for the home mater quite an interesting option would be to create a universal base to install on it with standard inserts of other power tools:
As practice shows, the creation and successful operation of such machines allows not only to solve the problem of improving the home workshop, but also significantly saves money on the purchase of expensive equipment.
And although such machines do not look quite aesthetically pleasing, they show excellent results in everyday work.
Worktop for Handheld Circular Saw
, Particularly when complete renovation or construction work is involved. Industrial products are not available to everyone. very expensive. But of course to make a circular saw yourself, using the materials that are available in the household.
A stationary circular saw in a bush setting is created with advancement in several likely directions:
- adapting existing hand tools, using the engine and circular saw for new abilities;
- Improvement of industrial products to extend the functionality;
- assembling it from separate parts, made, for the most part, by oneself.
Stationary circular machine includes several main components: the table, shaft, motor, and some others, the properties of which are not so important.
Making a workbench with integrated saw inexpensive and severe
The table serves to mount woodworking devices. It can be assembled quite out of metal, which is better, especially for machines with a high power engine. Wood also makes excellent tables for a circular saw. But note that the table top should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. The tables are sure to be rigid and stable, able to withstand a heavy load during operation. The surface is made completely flat, over the rotating parts is necessary to install shields.
For a home-made circular saw is well suited engine from a washing machine. Portable tools are less suitable: their collector motors are designed only for short work. They have a very high RPM, low efficiency, fear of clogging. There is a variant to apply a three-phase electric motor, if there is no 380 V in a household, it is useful to buy capacitors, so it would work from 220 V.
The most critical component is the shaft. Use a ready-made, if available, or turn it out of round metal. The work on the lathe is done in one setup, then in the assembly with the working bodies to inspect the alignment. Even a small run-out is unacceptable, or else it will become more, when the work is unacceptable. On the shaft provide seats: for a circular saw and under the pulleys, but in addition. Also make slots for planing knives.
Properties of circular saw, motor and the greatest thickness of the lumber, which there is a variant to cut, are mutually correlated. The maximum rpm for which the circular saw blade is purchased is marked on it. The number of revolutions imparted to the shaft by the motor is smaller. Power of motor has an influence on very permissible cross-section of toothed saw. The cross sectional area must be two to three times the material thickness, otherwise it will be hard to saw. It is assumed that for the cutting of materials 100mm wide the engine power is more than 1kW.
Only V-belt transmission is used. if foreign objects get under the saw, material jams, the belt slips on the pulleys. Injuries in this case are practically eliminated. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into consideration two indicators: the engine rpm and the very permissible rpm of the circular saw. Calculate the necessary pulley cross-sections. A pulley with a huge cross-section is installed on the engine, and on the shaft for the circular saw. with the smallest, in order to increase the number of revolutions.
RPM of the shaft with a circular saw is not as simple as the motor speed, how much smaller the cross-section of its pulley from the pulley cross-section of the engine.
For work with wood in a huge volume, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan, select a quarter. Requires a fairly powerful electric motor, rigid table. We present a construction made of iron angle and steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm, of course planing boards with a width of 200 mm. A three-phase motor 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. Capacitors are required for 220 V connection.
machine frame; 4. panel; 3. starter; 4. height adjustment device; 5,7. desktop of 2 halves; 6. base; 8. motor; 9. platform; 10. pins M10; 11. circular saw blade; 12. shaft; 13. lifting mechanism supports; 14. driven pulley; 15. belt; 16. driving pulley; 17. switch.
Circular saw stationary with their own hands are created with the advancement in several possible directions:
- Adapting the existing hand tools, using the motor and circular saw for new possibilities;
- Improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
- assembling from separate parts, mostly made by your own efforts.
A stationary circular machine consists of several main components: a table, a shaft, a motor and some others, characteristics of which are not so important.
The table serves to fasten the woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled entirely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machines with a high power motor. Wood also makes good tables for the circular saw. But it should be taken into account that the table top should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. The tables must be very rigid and stable, able to withstand a lot of work load. The surface is made perfectly flat, over the rotating parts must install shields protection.
Washing machine motor is a good choice for a home-made circular saw. Portable tools are less suitable: their collector motors are designed for short-term operation only. They have a very high speed, low efficiency, are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase motor, but if your household does not have 380 V, you’ll need to buy capacitors to make it work from 220 V.
The most critical component is the shaft. Use a ready-made one, if it is available, or cut it out of round metal. The work on the lathe is performed in one setup, then in the assembly with the working parts check the centering. Even minimal runout is not permissible, since it would become too great during work, at which point operation is impermissible. On the shaft provide slots: for a circular saw and for pulleys on the other side. Grooves for planing knives can also be made.
Main parameters. calculation of power, rpm, gear
The characteristics of the circular saw, the motor, and the maximum thickness of the lumber that can be cut are mutually related. The maximum RPMs for which the circular saw blade is purchased are indicated. Number of revolutions transferred from the motor to the shaft must be lower. Engine power affects maximum allowable diameter of toothed saw blade. Diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise it will be difficult to cut. It is considered that for the cutting of materials with thickness of 100mm you need not less than 1 kW motor.
Only V-belt drive is used. in case of foreign objects getting under the saw, jammed material, the belt slips on the pulleys. Injuries in such cases are practically eliminated. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. Two things to consider: the engine rpm and the maximum allowed rpm of the circular saw. Calculate the necessary diameters of pulleys. A larger diameter pulley is mounted on the motor, and a smaller diameter pulley is mounted on the circular saw shaft to increase the speed.
Circular saw shaft speeds are as many times the engine speeds as its pulley diameter is smaller than the diameter of the pulley on the engine.
Manual with a guide rail
The home handyman does not often need to cut deep and “long”, but the hand circular saw is a useful thing in its own right. Also the manual circular saw with guide rail can cut wood crosswise and lengthwise as well as at any angle. And the cutting length of up to 1.5-2 m is quite enough for almost all finishing work and creative work.
There are enough laths for manual circular saws on sale and they cost inexpensively, but there is no universal one. The principle of a branded guide bar is illustrated in Fig.The saw’s base plate (shoe) is manufactured with a longitudinal groove and the guide bar is stamped into the corresponding groove. Main parameters. calculating power, revolutions, gearbox. with ridge (arrow in Fig.).
Using manual circular saw with guide rails
It is convenient in operation: you only need to press the tool from above, and it will not go sideways or sideways. And in the course of the competition, it is also handy: we make our saws so that they do not sit on the guides of “partners”.
Uncomfortable for craftsmen. you can’t find a cheaper guide bar. And a circular saw with a groove for guide rail is disproportionately expensive compared with the same, but with a smooth shoe. Amateurs do the opposite: rail with a groove of laminated plywood, and a pair of bosses attached to the shoe (pos. 2b in the big picture. in the beginning). But to do it, first of all, you need wood milling table, which is necessary to make (not easy) or buy (at a high cost). Secondly, already a small depth of cut is reduced by 16-20 mm. Thirdly, if the tool is still under warranty, drilling holes in the shoe will burn out the warranty. Fourth, if the saw is a rental, nothing can be reworked in it.
There is another way, but the tool in the work will need to be held in 3 planes: hold, from leaving sideways and from spinning. The plywood base of the guide in this case can be thinner, 6-8 mm. The actual guide rail will be a flat rail (or a section of steel angle, etc.) fixed to it.п.), see. trace. fig.:
How to make the guide for a hand circular saw by yourself
“Adjustment” of the device is reduced to the fact that the circular saw simply cuts off the excess from the base. It is fastened to the board / sheet of material with screw clamps, just like a branded guide. When working on a workbench, spacers slightly thicker than the material are put under the base; this reduces the depth of cut. decreases.
Table for manual circular saw
The designs of handmade sawing tables for manual circular saws are numerous, but most of them are the fruit of creative search and/or self-expression. However, quite workable. However, the optimal options for those who need not make and show, and work on it, are viewed quite clearly.
This is a tilting circular saw table for handheld circular saw (left in fig.). tabletop. 12 mm laminated plywood; 400 mm high columns. furniture laminated chipboard 16-24 mm. It is not recommended to make cross-bars of planks, because you won’t get the needed table rigidity. Tabletop overhangs 30-60 mm.
Construction of sawing table for handheld circular saw
The construction of the circular tabletop is shown on the right in Fig. Slots for saw blade exit (one slot is possible) are cut 6-10 mm wide. No particular precision is required, t.к. Stop (see pic. set for sawing along the circular saw blade. The size of the table top can be changed arbitrarily (up to approx. 900×1200 mm of 16 mm plywood). Clamping in working position (C in fig.). M8 screws with wing nuts. Rotating assembly (pos. B). a piece of pipe (can be plastic). Its attachment to the tabletop is possible with countersunk head screws through the through holes.
Instead of hinges. L-shaped pieces of bar D8; a small backlash in the tube does not affect the quality of sawing. Each “hinge” is additionally bent in the vertical plane at an angle of 30-45 degrees. On the long “G” sticks are threaded and secured in a cylinder by pairs of nuts with split washers. Fixing holes in the tsargah is better to mark on the spot, having inserted “hinges” in the tube and having laid the table top on the base.
Making a solid sliding stop for the workpiece, as in pos. 3b in large fig. at the beginning, not necessarily. Its (stop) is better to make from a piece of steel angle from 40×40, cutting a vertical shelf as shown here in Fig. (rear view).
Design of a steel angle slide stop for a homemade circular table
Such a stop is fastened to the tabletop with clamps, and it is necessary to verify its parallelism to the saw blade in any case; this is done with a metal-square with millimeter divisions.
Fastening of the manual circular saw in the sawing table in clamps
the circular saw is fastened to the table top with the disc upwards. If the tool is not under warranty and the loss of depth of cut is not essential, it is necessary to drill 4 holes D8 in the saw shoe and fix it by the through screws with countersunk heads. It is very advisable to put 1-2 mm rubber between shoe and worktop (eg., from the autocam), the quality of the cut will improve noticeably due to the damping of tool vibrations. If it is necessary to minimize the loss of depth of cut, a through cut-out is made in the table top for the tool shoe, the saw is fixed to a steel sheet 3-6 mm thick, and it is fixed in a rectangular well on the front (working) surface of the table top (see Pic. fig. left). But the hole will have to choose a manual wood router, chisel precisely flush will not work.
If the tool is used under warranty or on loan, loss of depth of cut is unavoidable, t.к. Do not hole the saw shoe. For such cases there is a variant of clamping of the saw (see pic. the trail. rice.). For regular work in big volumes it is not suitable, but it can be done quickly and it will be possible to saw evenly for a day or two.
Manual circular saw mounting in the sawing table with minimum loss of cutting depth
Note: On the options for self-made sawing tables on the basis of manual circular saws, see video; stationary in the workshop: